Hi Weekly - January 1, 2016 by Muscat Media Group

OMAN’S LARGEST CIRCULATED WEEKLY — 54,000 COPIES

VOL 10 ISSUE 01 / JANUARY 1, 2016

WHALES OF THE ARABIAN SEA PAGE 18

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THIS WEEK IN OMAN

GET FIT, HAVE FUN With the New Year comes new ﬁtness goals and resolves. Learn about all the ways to stick to your resolution in Oman from running clubs to Salsa classes. PAGE 12

FIND A NEW FAVOURITE BOOK Explore the past and present of House of Prose, one of the only independent bookstores in Oman. PAGE 22

PLAY SUDOKU Kick back and give your brain a workout with these numerical puzzles. PAGE 30

HI WEEKLY

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

Give us a shout with questions, comments, compliments, complaints, or just to say “Hi” Founder Essa bin Mohamed Al Zedjali Chairman Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali CEO Ahmed Essa Al Zedjali scottarmstrong@timesofoman.com Chief Executive Editor Scott Armstrong felicia@timesofoman.com

Executive Features Editor Felicia Campbell Features Production Editor Swati Dasgupta

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Editor Hubert Vaz

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Senior Editors T. A. Ameerudheen Faisal Mohammed Naim ameerudheen@timesofoman.com

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Chief Sub-Editors Mohammed Shafeeqe, Ashish Dubash ashishdubash@timesofoman.com

Online Editor Mahran Shaukat Ali

shafeeq@timesofoman.com Multimedia Editorial Assistants Shruthi Nair, Asmaa Al Balushi, Salim Hamood Al Afifi

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Chief Creative Officer Adonis Durado Associate Art Director Waleed Rabin Graphic Editor Antonio Farach Design Editor Sahir K.M. Lead Designer Ali Jani Designers Antonio Ismael Sandiego Geri Batara Sonny Gregory Fernandez

Director of Digital Television Joe Morrison richard@timesofoman.com

Photography MMG Photographers Chief Sales Officer Richard Pakenham

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Head Of Advertising & Marketing Aziz K. Baker Production Manager Shafi Shaik On The Cover Design by Waleed Rabin For general inquiries or comments: HiWeekend@timesofoman.com

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THE WEEKEND LINEUP Your calendar of the hottest events happening in Muscat this weekend

31 01 02 7:00pm Enjoy an Orchestra

David Levi will conduct the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra as they accompany tenor Michael Schade, soprano Fatma Said, and violinist Anna Tifu. Royal Opera House +968 2440 3300 rohmuscat.org.om

8:00pm Party on the Beach

Dance on the beach at the sureto-be-lively ODC bash. Oman Dive Centre +968 9614 5124 nyeoman.com

8:30pm Hit the Clubs On the Rocks will be celebrating the New Year with the Londonbased DJs, Futuristic Polar Bears, and German DJ, Salkin. Over at Copacabana, local DJ trio Zoelectric Project will be spinning progressive house and dubstep. On the Rocks, Golden Tulip Seeb +968 9798 3333 goldentulipseeb.com Copacabana, Grand Hyatt Muscat +968 2464 1234 muscat.grand.hyatt.com

FRIDAY

12:30pm Recover with Brunch

Start your New Year day with an alfresco brunch. Head to the Intercontinental for a lavish buffet at Musandam Café and Terrace. +968 2468 0000; intercontinental.com/muscat

SATURDAY 9:30pm Pulse and Soul Wind-down and relax with the old school sounds of live band, Pulse and Soul, who will perform in the warm ambience of Route 66. +968 9986 5867 facebook.com/routeoman

Drive up to the Shangri La to enjoy barbecue and a buffet on the terrace at Al Tanoor restaurant. +968 2477 6540; shangri-la.com/muscat

Or, book a beachside table at Al Bustan Palace’s Beach Pavilion restaurant and take advantage of their bubbly brunch package. +968 2479 9666; albustan@ritzcarlton.com

Photography: Supplied

THURSDAY

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Going out of town to see any of these events? Tag us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly

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KHALEEJI HAPPENINGS Broadcasting the best events in the GCC (December 31, January 1, 2) 01

Thursday, December 31 Dubai Downtown Fireworks (Dubai)

Bid farewell to 2015 and greet 2016 with fireworks at the Burj Khalifa courtesy of Downtown Dubai and Emaar. Watch the magical lights dance across the Dubai sky as you celebrate with other revellers. Burj Al Khalifa +971 4888 8888 mydubainewyear.com

Thursday, December 31 New Year in the Sky (Kuwait)

Celebrate the New Year at the Sky Lounge located on the rooftop of Radisson Blu where attendees can enjoy uninhibited views of the night sky glittering with fireworks which are reflected in the shining sea. Radisson Blu +965 2567 3455 sales.kuwait@radissonblu.com

Thursday, December 31 Doha New Year’s Eve DJs (Doha)

Celebrate your New Year’s Eve with Haytham Zayyed, Shady El Bach, and DJ star Chadi Axen. La Cigale Hotel 60 Suhaim Bin Hamad Street +974 4428 8665 lacigalehotel.com

Have a blast at the biggest shopping and entertainment carnival in the Middle East. Enjoy amazing events and performances, and indulge in a shopping spree with citywide discounts and offers, including grand prizes like luxury cars, gold, and cash. +971 6005 55559 info@visitdubai.ae mydsf.ae

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS hiweekend@timesofoman.com

CENTRE FRANCO – OMANAIS

CENTER FOR INTERNATIONAL LEARNING

POLYGLOT INSTITUTE

MUSCAT KOREAN LANGUAGE SCHOOL Learn Korean language and enjoy non-academic activities related to Korean culture for a rich learning experience. Located opposite InterContinental Muscat. +968 9621 0733

Group language classes in English, Arabic, and Urdu are offered at the Polyglot Institute, along with private classes for other modern languages and study abroad options. +968 2466 6666 pi.om

CIL offers a range of Arabic classes, from intensive workshops to group lessons to private tutoring, with a focus on local dialect and coversation. +968 2455 1041 omancenter.org

PERSIAN LANGUAGE CENTRE Learn how to speak and write in Farsi, the official language of Iran. A ten week course is available for OMR80 at the centre which is located on Al Inshirah Street in Madinat Sultan Qaboos. +968 2469 1051

Photography: Supplied

FIVE TO TRY

Saturday, January 2 Hit the Track (Bahrain)

Ever wondered how fast your car or bike could go? Test your ride (and yourself) at the Bahrain International Circuit. All you need is a maintained road-legal car and an internationally recognised driving license. Bahrain International Circuit +973 1745 0000 bahraingp.com

03 Offering group and private courses in conversational French and Arabic, the CFO aims to bridge cultures through language. +968 2469 7579 cfoman.org

Friday, January 1 Dubai Shopping Festival 2016 (Across various locations in Dubai)

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Where did you escape to this weekend? Show us on Instagram @hiweekly_oman and tell us about it on facebook.com/hiweekly

WEEKEND ESCAPE

DETOX FROM THE HOLIDAYS IN THE NATURAL PARKS OF BARKA

Beautiful Barka

After the holidays the weekend comes and though we want to get away, we are tired and none-too-keen to drive half a day to reach our destination. Barka, less than an hour from Muscat, offers a perfect solution with gardens, castles, an ayurvedic spa, and even an ostrich farm. Story Olga Aymerich FRIDAY 08.00 Sleep in, have a relaxing coffee at home, be a bit lazy…it’s the weekend. 10.00 Take a short 30km drive north and right after Seeb, but before Barka, you will reach Al Naseem Gardens. Stroll around the lake, enjoy the zen experience of walking around the Japanese garden, and get lost in the maze. Once you ﬁnd your way to the exit, have a snack and a tea at the little cafeteria at the centre of the park. 13.00 Drive into Barka and check in at the Al Nahda Resort and Spa (+968 2688 3710, alnahdaresort.com), a complex of small villas surrounded by tropical mango, citrus, and date palm trees. 15.00 Re-engergise with a hot stone massage featuring aromatic oils and hot basalt stones, in one of the luxurious treatment rooms. 17.30 After your treatment, wander around the grounds before heading to your villa to freshen up before dinner. 19.30 Have a relaxing Italian dinner under the stars at Samar café.

SATURDAY 09.00 Saturday is all about exploration with the ﬁrst stop right in front of the hotel at the Ostrich Breeding Farm. The “ballerinas of the desert” as ostrich are known, will come to greet you with their clumsy little jumps, but be careful, do not get too close to the fence or you will get more than a kiss from them. Take home a massive ostrich egg from the souvenir shop. 12.00 Just south of Sawadi sits Bait Na’man (+968 2464 1300 [ext 142], open 9am-1:30pm). This unusual little castle will charm you at ﬁrst sight. At the time it was built, it was surrounded by more than 30,000 date palms and 6,000 coconut trees and unlike so many of the Omani forts, Bait Na’man is homely. Furnished, restored, and renovated, it is easy to imagine life in such a house 200 years ago.

18.00 Shop at Dragon Mart (+968 2688 3440) for inexpensive import items on your way back to Muscat. —HiWeekend@timesofoman.com

Photography: Supplied

14.00 Visit the majestic Barka Fort (+968 2688 3293, open 9am-4pm). Look out for the little bats hanging inside the three gun towers. Wondering why it has a double gate? Barka Fort was in fact two forts when it was in use.

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Light Boxes

NEW PHONE, NEW CAR, NEW HOME INTERIORS, AND NEW RESOLUTIONS — THE NEW YEAR CALLS FOR MANY THINGS. AND AS YOU ARE UPGRADING, DON’T FORGET ABOUT THAT ULTIMATE BOREDOM BUSTER: YOUR TV.

Samsung SUHD 78” JS9500 The Guru of LEDs, Samsung brings you the jumbo 78 inch SUHD TV, designed to excite all your senses. Using ground breaking Nano Crystal Technology, the backlight panel emits radiant light to create outstandingly precise and rich colours. Experience a spectacular range of shades, along with the deepest of blacks and most pristine whites that come to life in the most magical way. The 3D Smart TV also features 4K upscaler, multi-link screen, and screen mirroring. Nothing better than this at the moment. Price: OMR 3999.900

LG UHD TV 55”- UF770

Hisense Vision TV 55” K390 XWAU3

Representing the LG’s mid-range of Ultra HD LED LCD TVs, the UF770 uses an ultra-slim ﬂat IPS panel with LG’s ColourPrime Nano Spectrum technology to create a wider colour space, along with webOS and Smart TV. The Quad-Core picture processor includes numerous picture processing features to maximise the effect of the Ultra HD panel, even on non-4K content, as well as extensive calibration controls. The panel sports an attractive design with a slim panel, minimal bezel and Harman Kardon speakers for improved sound quality. Also includes built-in Wi-Fi, but quite surprisingly has no 3D. Price: OMR 499.990

This one packs a bevvy of features but still carries an excitingly low price tag, maybe because it is Chinese brand. Still the brand with its superb results has made quite a space for itself in the international TV markets. For starters, the 55 inch LED is Smart, full-HD, runs Android platform, and features a quad-core processor. On top of it the panel is 3D, and sports a dual band Wi-Fi. The picture quality is really amazing; presenting excellent detail without being too perturbed by fast motion thanks to a surprisingly good 100Hz mode. Even more amazing is the price tag, which is sure to tickle you pink. Just see below. Price: OMR 349.900

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WITH THE NEW 2016 TECHNOLOGY RELEASED AND THE OLDER MODELS ON SALE, NOW IS THE BEST TIME TO GO GET THAT SHINY NEW HD, 4K, LED, OLED, OR AMOLED SCREEN YOU’VE BEEN WAITING FOR. Story Faisal Naim

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Sound Affair For an immersive viewing experience, image quality alone won’t suffice: you’ve got to have awesome sound to go along with it. But as the display panels go slimmer by the day, the quality of the built in sound systems has taken a nosedive. So to complete your viewing experience, you’ll need to add an external sound source. There are plenty of options out there, from splurge-worthy Bose to incredible value Sony.

Available at all leading electronic stores in Muscat, including Extra, Emax, Sharaf DG, Lulu. Or visit the exclusive dealerships for Samsung at SARCO, LG at OTE, and Sony at Jumbo Electronics

Sony X85C 55” 4K ANDROID Sony has jumped on Google’s bandwagon and adopted “Android TV”. The X85C, is a midrange 4K (UHD) 3D TV using Android platform. It lacks the features of the high-end TVs such as HDR and 10 bit colours, but still offers what is necessary to enjoy 4K resolution. The sleek panel sports a slim black metal bezel design. Only a small plastic bar at the bottom edge stands out because of a light diode that indicates whether the TV is on or off. Also features 4K upscaler, Triluminous display, digital sound enhancement engine, NFC, Android 5, and a free six month Netﬂix 4K subscription. Price: OMR 699.900

F those For h llooking ki the h ‘li ‘light h on pocket, k b but hheavy on sound‘ d‘ options, Sony has the best solution, with an entire range of affordable speaker systems delivering amazing audio experience. The best to try could be the Sony HT-CT80 2.1 channel soundbar with virtual sound system. The bluetooth and NFC (Near field communication) enabled system emulates three-dimensional sound fields so you can enjoy rich, high-fidelity audio across a wide listening area. Very sleek and stylish too. Price: OMR 44.900 Check it out at: Emax, Muscat City Centre (+968 2447 2154)

the mostt tto you, no matter then B Bose If sound d matters tt th tt what, h t th is the most ultimate choice. Offering a wide range of home theatre option across varied price categories, it is the Bose Lifestyle SoundTouch 535, you should go for if you want to reach the acoustic pinnacle. Wi-Fi, Bluetooth enabled; the 535 delivers real immersive surround sound and impactful bass. Beyond TV, movies, sports, and video games, the system is also a powerful music machine. Price: OMR 1450 Check it out at (and enjoy a demo): Bose Showroom, Qurum City Centre (+968 2447 0497)

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Revival of the Fittest The new year presents an opportunity to get back into good habits that fell by the way and to develop new healthy practices.

love to workout. Well, perhaps it would be more accurate to say that I love to have worked out, which I’ve done religiously for over a decade. So I was surprised a few weekends ago when I was climbing down a hill in Bandar Al Khiran and felt my legs shaking from the effort. When was the last time I’d been to the gym? Between out of town guests, annual leave, and a busy schedule, a week of missed workouts had turned into months. I resolved to get back to the gym the very next week ... that was two weeks ago. Even the healthy habits we enjoy are difficult to get back into after an extended break, and developing new routines can be a major challenge as well, but there is nothing like the imagined fresh start of a new year to incite us to act. At Hi, we want to help. So this month we will be featuring special stories each week to give you new ideas and inspiration for ways to eat better and get moving with everything from lux ﬁtness camps to dance classes (see the next page) to a side-by-side roundup of gym membership options. Happy New Year, Muscat, let’s kick-off 2016 right. —felicia@timesofoman.com

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LOVE OF THE GAME

SALSA DANCE And, five, six, seven, eight... STORY SHRUTHI NAIR

few years ago two unacquainted couples on their honeymoons, one Omani and the other American, were canoeing on the peaceful waters of a lake in America. They exchanged smiles and soon struck up a light-hearted conversation. One topic led to another and they found themselves discussing Salsa. The American immediately thought of a name, and when the Omani man proceeded to say that his cousin was an established Latin dancer in Oman, they both said “Thuwaini A Al Harthy!” in unison. Dance has always been a part of Thuwaini’s life. Growing up he was inspired by ﬁgure skating that he saw on television, and he fell in love with the movements of couples in synchronised dancing. In 2003 he officially began his journey into professional dance, travelling the world, from Cyprus, to Malaysia, to Egypt, Turkey, Paris, Lebanon, Russia,

Romania, Belgium, Indonesia (Bali), and the whole of GCC, to learn different styles and forms of dance. And he met some of the pioneers of modern salsa along the way. The ‘Mafias of Salsa’ or ‘Gurus of Salsa,’ an elite salsa group from Portland who breathe, eat, and live salsa, were a major source of inspiration for him. For them, salsa is their source of income, their social life, and their passion. Thuwaini stayed with the group and learned their techniques, returning to Oman with his newly adopted style to create a salsa group in Muscat where he could pass on his knowledge. He has since added more instructors and created a full-fledged team. He started slowly, offering dance sessions in the Grand Hyatt, moving to a studio in PDO as the group grew, and finally landing in his current space in Al Bahja Hall in the Jungle restaurant in Qurum. Pursuing his passion here in Muscat was not without its challenges, as salsa is all about the union of a couple, evoking and publicly showcasing

intimacy, something typically kept very private in Omani culture. “People often mistake me to be Cuban and it is usually a task to explain to them that I am Omani. It wasn’t easy for me as an Omani to start this as many people don’t accept it. But with time I achieved recognition and acceptance. In the beginning it was weird to see a couple dance, but now people want to join and be a part of our group and dance with us, especially when we go for our social nights.” Slowly people began to accept salsa as an art form and eventually began to love it and want to try it for themselves. Salsa in Oman spread like a virus, gaining massive ground over the past four or ﬁve years and now Thuwaini’s Oman Salsa and Zouk Group welcomes ten new students to the classes each week. Thuwaini’s present dance group is a personiﬁcation of unity in diversity with both locals and expats from different nationalities, cultures, and social backgrounds coming together under one roof to express themselves and work up a sweat.

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Salsa is a synchronised dance in which two people become one and go into another realm altogether. The lady follows the lead of the man and the man follows the rhythm of the music.

KNOW YOUR SALSA Salsa essentially is a form of social dance that evolved as a distillation of many Latin and Afro-Caribbean dances. A large part of the dance originated from Cuba and then began to mix with African Rhumbas originated from New York with strong influences from Cuba, Puerto Rico and Latin America. Salsa music and dancing have striking traces of African drum rhythms, Spanish guitar music, and dances from Cuba and Puerto Rico. Before and around the time of World War II, the music travelled to Mexico City and New York. It was in New York where the term “Salsa” was created. For Thuwaini, salsa is a synchronised dance in which two people become one and go into another realm altogether. The lady follows the lead of the man and the man follows the rhythm of the music. Salsa dancing is performed to eight-beat music, with dancers moving on three beats for which the movement style is left-rightleft-pause. If a dancer begins salsa dancing on the first beat of the phrase (left-rightleft-pause), the style is known as “on one”. While not the easiest dance form, because of its high tempo, it is not particularly difficult, and dancers of all skill levels should be able to gain proficiency within a matter of months. Thuwaini trains in a number of variations of Salsa and Latin dance, including:

LA LA style salsa moves are designed to dazzle the spectator – exciting, and ﬂamboyant with lots of dips, sequence, spins and drops. The LA style “shines” have their roots in Latin Ballroom. Couples break away from each other in the middle of a dance to start “shining”. Women will extend their arms to strike a pose, then play with stylised hip and hair movements.

Photography: Ali Jani

Bachata Bachata is a style of social dance from the Dominican Republic. In partnering, the lead can decide whether to perform in open, semi-closed or closed position. Dance moves or step variety strongly depend on the music (such as the rhythms

played by the different instruments), setting, mood, and interpretation. Unlike salsa, bachata dance does not usually include many turn patterns. Bachata is also considered to be a slower, more sensual and romantic version of salsa. There is more connect and chemistry among the partners compared to the other forms.

Merengue Merengue's beauty is in its simplicity and rural, unsophisticated feel where partners hold each other in a closed position. Here, the partners lift their heels and march continuously with each other. The essence is to go with the feel of the music, the partnership, improvisation, and the mood of the occasion.

Cuban The Cubans call their salsa Casino because in the decadent days of Old Havana, all the action in town was going down at the Casinos. Cuban style salsa differs from the North American salsa styles in that it is ‘circular’ rather than linear. The man constantly moves around the woman in a circular dynamic fashion, checking her out and showing her off. Voila! The Cuban salsa dancers have a lot of fun due to the upbeat music and fast tempo which keeps them going energetically with a lot of footsteps and shoulder work.

GET YOUR GROOVE ON International Salsa Festival In February the OSZG will be organising their 6th International Salsa Festival for which over thirty international choreographers and trainers from across the world will travel to Oman to offer training in specialised forms of Latin dance. The ﬁve-day festival will also feature welcome parties, social nights, workshops, and shows. See oiszf.com for updates and details. Social Steps Twice a month the group hosts free beginner workshops followed by a social night of dancing. On the Rocks (+968 9798 3333) Shangri-la (+968 2477 6666), Trader Vics (+968 2468 0080), Rumba Lattina (+968 2465 1051) Senor Pico (+968 2468 0030) Weekly Group Classes Take Salsa lessons, open to all ability levels, at Al Bahja Hall, Jungle Restaurant from 6.45pm onwards every Sunday. Contact OSZG at +968 9932 6632

Salsa Rueda

Tango

Salsa Rueda is a synchronised Cuban group dance wherein all the dancers form the pattern of a closed rose. People dance together changing partners with one leader in the centre leading the moves. While some of the moves are graceful and intricate, others are just plain funny, such as ‘ﬂy’ where the guys slap their palms together over the girls’ heads in a pretend ﬂy-catcher move.

Tango is a vibrant partner dance that originated in Argentina and Uruguay which has rich potential for expression and connection in a sophisticated manner. While dancing the tango, the lady is held in the crook of the man’s arm. She holds her head back and rests her right hand on the man's lower hip. There’s a lot of poise and rigidity in the postures and movements which gives it an element of old-school romance.

Cha Cha This lively and ﬂirtatious form of dance is one of the most popular forms of Latin dance. The light and bubbly feel of the Cha Cha which is danced in beats of one, two, cha cha cha, gives it a unique sense of fun for dancers throughout the world. The Cha Cha requires small steps and lots of hip motion which works as a little hip twist.

Zouk Zouk, popularly known as the dance of love due to its strong, ﬂowing movements is a couple dance descended from Lambada. It is a sensual dance form where the partners are outstretched to the maximum with strong and different head, neck movements. -shruthi@timesofoman.com

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BOOT-I-LICIOUS STORY SHRUTHI NAIR | PHOTOGRAPHY ALI JANI

DISCO DANCE-IT-UP If you are a fan of the 70s trend but don't want to go all-out retro, grab a pair from Charles & Keith, MGM +968 2200 0000 - omanavenuesmall.om OMR19.000

PUMP-IT-UP P UMP-IT-UP this with Punnk iitt uup Punk p th hiss sseason easso on w ith lleather eather boots aand nd ssnake, nake, sstern teern aand nd ssexy exy b oots ffrom rom Empora, Oman Avenues Mall E O A M ll +968 93991303 - emporastores.com OMR25.900

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Winter means we can ďŹ nally trade in our open-toed shoes for boots, from ankle-height to thigh-high, but my favourite remains the classic knee-high. These sturdy stompers have been trendy since ancient times with tribes of Native Americans, though back then they were predominantly worn for warmth and the rugged travelling conditions, rather than style. These days there are all kinds of styles and ways vintage to classic riding. Here are four stunners. to wear them for distinct winter looks from modern vintag

CUDDLE-UP Slip into these quilted suede, knee-high, semiwedge black boots for a chic, cosy winter look. Find them at Empora, Oman Avenues Mall +968 9399 1303 - emporastores.com OMR25.900

SADDLE-UP Go to work in style, ďŹ&#x201A;aunting these trendy buckled riding boots with gold accents from Aldo Shoes, Oman Avenues Mall +968 2450 3403 - aldoshoes.com OMR58.000

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The Ancient Ones Separated from their global migratory family 70,000 years ago, a group of humpback whales have settled off the coast of Oman, making the waters of the Gulf their exclusive home for breeding and feeding in an unusual phenomenon still shrouded in mystery

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mani waters host a genetically unique population of humpback whales (Megaptera Novaeangliae) that, unlike the rest of their species, do not migrate, instead sticking to the waters of the Arabian Sea. The mystery behind the origins and habits of the Arabian Sea humpback whale are slowly being unravelled and the new findings from 15 years of research conducted by a team of marine experts led by Environmental Society of Oman (ESO), have triggered a buzz of excitement among marine experts across the globe. As a result of this the isolated population was given official international recogniMOHAMMED tion along with a conservation status of SHAFEEQE ‘Endangered’ by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) as the most recent estimate puts the population below 100 animals. Arabian Humpbacks are rather mysDARRYL terious, having only been discovered as MACDONALD/ a genetically distinct humpback populaESO tion recently. Andrew Willson, Senior Marine Ecologist with project partner Five Oceans Environmental Services, explained that much of the biology of these whales is understood from the scientific records of Soviet Whaling vessels that illegally took over 2,600 whales from the Arabian Sea between 1964 and 1967, 242 of which were humpbacks. This information was released with the break-up of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s and revived the interest in solving the enigma of these whales being far off the regular migratory track to southern ocean feeding grounds. Current work now relies on a host of cutting edge research techniques including molecular genetics, acoustic song detection, and tracking whales with satellite tags. Studies from the first five years of the research established that these whales became isolated during the onset of the last ice age, 70,000 years ago. This was revealed by comparing their genetic sequences with those from elsewhere in the Indian Ocean and Atlantic Ocean. “They don’t travel from the tropical areas in the winter to the feeding areas in the polar region, which is the conventional trait for this species, a reason why there is global scientific interest in the population – it may allow us to understand more clearly what is the driver behind the migration of other populations of whales,” said Andrew. “Understanding this more clearly may eventually allow us to understand the implications of climate change on these species.” “The current theory is that the whales are sustained in the Northern Indian Ocean as a result of highly productive upwelling of oceanic waters driven by the monsoon or ‘Khareef’ that blows across Southern Arabia between June and September every year. Nutrient laden cooler waters support a diverse food web including sardines, which we know from the Soviet whaling records are target prey for this population.” “The most important findings are that we have very few whales and that areas recently identified as important habitats are in the spotlight for future development. This scenario has resulted in international interest in the plight of this population and stimulated ESO and project partners to ensure that sufficient information is available to guide these developments. Fishing, hydrocarbon exploration and increase in regional and local shipping traffic are emerging activities that present threats to whales ranging between the Gulf of Masirah and the Hallaniyat Islands. Population level threats can be experienced by accidental capture of whales by local fisheries and direct mortality from ship strikes, with on-going chronic stresses resulting from increasing noise and industrialisation of coastal areas.” A 2008 study showed that 40% of humpbacks encountered in Oman showed signs of net entanglement, and this situation is not unique to Oman. The threats that shipping

STORY

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presents to whales has also become a global concern with the International Whaling Commission setting up a committee to look into the matter and liaise with other international bodies to identify high risk areas for ship strikes and to provide solutions to decrease ship noise in sensitive habitats. “The situation for these whales in Oman is starting to look precarious, but furnished with the necessary ecological data and the support of industry we are conﬁdent that solutions can be found to allow whales and new developments to co-exist. First of all, we must have a clearer understanding of where these whales are and when.”

FINDING THE WHALES Initial research conducted from small boats by a mobile research team honed in on where to find whales in the early 2000s, and started to generate a photographic catalogue of them and collected genetic samples. Hampered by the constraints of working from small boats and the amount of time they could spend at sea, the team started to look into alternative monitoring techniques. Humpbacks are very well known for their exquisite songs. It is only the male who sings during the breeding time. In 2011 the first array of acoustic recorders was deployed off southern Oman. “The acoustic loggers were the first break through in changing the research approach to define habitat of the animals by using remote detection technologies. Whales are known to communicate with each other through vocalisations, so by leaving acoustic recorders on the seabed year round we now have records that will indicate to us the seasonality of their presence in multiple areas simultaneously.” Data collected between 2011 and 2014 is now being processed by project partners in the New England Aquarium, and financed under sponsorship arranged between ESO and Shell Development. Preliminary results from this work should be out within the next six months. Andrew explained that no single technique can provide all the necessary data to generate a representative seasonal and spatial picture of what these animals are doing. So, with an approach to gain multiple lines of evidence on whale ecology, the team launched a two-year satellite tagging campaign.

FOLLOWING THE MAMMALS In continuation of the ESO research programme a team of 10 scientists recently returned to Muscat after spending two weeks at sea tagging these rare marine mammals. The ﬁeld team lived on a ﬁshing dhow throughout the expedition and used two smaller boats to support the tagging operations. The team was led by Five Oceans Environmental Consultants, including experts from Environment Society of Oman and international groups Institute Aqualie, National Atmospheric and Oceanic Administration, and the Wildlife Conservation Society. Through the tagging, the researchers are now able to track the movement of the whales off the cost of

Oman. “The objective of the tagging is to define important habitats for the whales through the movements generated by locations transmitted by the tags several times a day,” said Andrew. “The plots themselves will enable us to understand the accumulated time spent in certain areas, their behaviour, and what depths they are diving to.” The most recent expedition was in the Gulf of Masirah, following two previous tagging expeditions in February 2014 and March 2015 in Dhofar where the data from six tags revealed these whales are spending significant time around the Hallaniyat Islands and Gulf of Masirah (between Barr al Hikman in the North, Masirah Island to the East and Ras Madrakah to the South). Satellite tags only remain on the whales for a month or two, though last season one of the tags lasted for almost six months and revealed that the whale moved as far south as Yemen. Once whales were tagged the team continued to survey the area for the remainder of the expedition, collecting photographic and genetic data that will be used to define population estimates in the future.

PROTECTING GIANTS The ESO has developed a network of partners to ensure that this information is used to help guide deci-

We are only just beginning to scratch the surface of the importance of these whales to the ecosystem, so as well as being interested in their own conservation we are also interested in their importance as indicators to the general health of the seas and the resources upon which we all depend

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HOW YOU CAN HELP There are many ways to get involved with the ESO’s Arabian whale conservation efforts: • Assist with data entry and the management of ESO’s reference library • Assist with scientiﬁc surveys (requires experience with boat-handling and a willingness to spend long hours staring at empty sea) • Assist with beach surveys for cetacean remains (requires a strong stomach and an interest in examining dead whales and dolphins) • Assist with presentations to schools and local communities (group members can provide some presentation materials and training – but presentation or teaching experience is helpful) • Translation of reports and articles into Arabic • Assisting in the formation of a national entanglement and stranding reporting network • Submit photographs of whales and dolphins spotted in Oman to ESO • Report incidents of whales or dolphins in distress and tell ESO about any dead whales and dolphins that you have seen Environmental Society of Oman +968 2479 0945, eso.org.om

sion making and management of activities in the Gulf of Masirah. The work is being annually reported to the International Whaling Commission Scientific Committee who has taken an interest in encouraging appropriate conservation measures to be adopted for these unique creatures. This is critical as the tracks are already showing movement across the approaches to the port in Duqm and across an area where there is active hydrocarbon exploration. Already active with their own whale management scheme, the Port of Duqm has sponsored one of the tags to support the efforts. “We are only just beginning to scratch the surface of the importance of these whales to the ecosystem, so as well as being interested in their own conservation we are also interested in their importance as indicators to the general health of the seas. In the grander scheme it is a proactive way to investigate the state of the environment and the resources upon which we all depend. “So where development is taking place we need to ensure decision makers have the necessary information to put equal measures into the most effective solutions to ensure progress is sustainable. In January last year a group of whale scientists, research institutions and NGOs formed the Arabian Sea Whale Network (ASWN), to share scientific data on these whales. “Collaborators in the network hail from Yemen, UAE, Iran, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka, and Maldives. These countries represent the area we think is part of the geographic range of these whales and will address a key goal to start improving our knowledge of the animals outside of Oman, of which we know very little.” “Findings on this work are routinely handed to government partners in the Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries and Ministry of Environment,” Andrew said, adding, “the International Whaling Commission Scientific Committee is extremely interested in the progress in the activities and have assigned the Arabian Sea humpback whale their own space in their agenda. They are very supportive of having the work we initiated in Oman replicated in other countries in the region.” Andrew said that finding funding to adequately resource such research is always a challenge. “Recent funders including Renaissance, Shell, and Port of Duqm demonstrate that there are companies operating within Oman that are interested in taking responsibility for such conservation efforts. We hope that as the project generates more information and awareness on these animals that this proactive approach will be welcomed and emulated by other industries operating in the area. Certainly more efforts are required to also investigate solutions to threats and how these solutions can be implemented.” These spectacular creatures that have made the Sea of Oman their home are one of the many unique natural wonders of this country, though many aren’t aware of their presence, or of their peril. Proactive protection is key to their survival, and essential to this end is an awareness that will lead to widespread appreciation for this aquatic gift.— shafeeq@timesofoman.com

FOLLOW THE WHALES ONLINE Watch the movement and migration routes of Hadi, Hamar An Nafur, Holy Fluke, Nusf Al Qamar, Sifa, and Yasser with the Renaisssance Whale and Dolphin Project 2015 Arabian Sea Humpback Whale Satellite Tagging interactive maps: seaturtle.org/ tracking WATCH HALFMOON IN ACTION Scan this QR code to watch the animated track of one of the whales, ‘Nusf Al Qamar - Halfmoon taking us on his journey around the Arabian Sea.

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

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FOR 22 YEARS, BOOK LOVERS WHO STUMBLE UPON THIS UNASSUMING INDEPENDENT BOOKSTORE HAVE BEEN CAPTIVATED BY ITS TREASURE TROVE OF TITLES AND UNIQUE BOOK-SWAPPING SCHEME >> STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS NADA AL SAYED

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

HOUSE OF PROSE Al Wadi Commercial Center, 2nd Floor Qurum, Muscat, Oman +968 9380 3435 Hours: 9:00am-1:00pm, 4:00pm-8:00pm facebookcom/HouseofProseBookshop

ake a walk down the beach or through one of the resorts in Muscat and you may come across people relaxing and reading on their kindles or iPads. It’s true that these days, paper books have been superseded with tablets, but nothing can truly replace the printed version of the written word and the feel of the pages as they turn. If you are looking for a specific book, the chances of finding a printed copy in Muscat are really based on luck. While there are many franchise bookshops in the city, the selection is rather generic as these shops typically carry a uniform selection. The variety of the books also remains fairly static throughout the year, with the exception of popular new releases or best sellers. So resorting to purchasing digital copies makes sense. If you aren’t an avid reader, or maybe are just new in town, you might not know that there are a few alternative bookshops in Muscat where you may just be lucky enough to come across something you’ve been wanting to read. I’ve always been interested in people and their stories and thus, I’m drawn to books with interesting characters, fiction and non-fiction alike, including biographies, historical books and religious texts. This usually means that while I have a very long list of books I’d like to read, I rarely find them in mainstream mall bookshops. The pleasure of reading starts well before I open the book. It begins the moment I enter a good bookshop and start roaming through its dusty rows. I spend hours reading covers, first chapters, and reviews online of books that catch my eye. Here in Muscat, that bookshop is the House of Prose.

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

Located in Al Wadi Commercial Center in Qurum, House of Prose has been serving readers in Muscat for nearly 22 years. This longstanding bookshop was originally opened in 1993 by an American expatriate, Mike McGinley, who has been living and working in the Middle East since 1984. As a lover of books, McGinley was inspired to open the shop when he noticed the lack of secondhand bookshops in the Sultanate. Though after ten years, McGinley (who currently owns two House of Prose bookstores in the UAE), sold the Oman location to another expat who then sold it to its current Omani owner, the shop still implements the original unique House of Prose model. The concept of the store differs from other shops in the city with a ‘half back’ policy. Inside each book is the House of Prose stamp and any book purchased from the House of Prose (bearing that stamp) may be sold back upon completion for half of what was paid for it. Though readers are able to get cash back, the concept is meant to encourage people to use the ‘half back’ as credit to purchase their next read from the store, as well as to continue to make books available at discounted prices for other readers.

“What I liked about the bookshop is the concept. I don’t like stocking up books in my house,” said Sreedevi Mohandasbinoy, an MBA student at the College of Banking and Financial Studies. “Once I read it I need to dispose it all and you get a good deal with House of Prose. For someone who is interested in reading, they like to keep on reading a lot. So once you come here, you buy a book, you finish reading, you’re done with it, you bring it back, and you can take another book.” The House of Prose prides itself on being able to offer thousands of pre-loved books covering a variety topics for 50 baisas to OMR 4, extremely reasonable prices compared to franchise bookshops. And most of the books are in near new condition. With about 10,000 books in stock, an array of genres are always available, with new additions each week. “There is a great variety of books and you can find anything,” said Sohrab Tajadin, a customer who has been shopping at the House of Prose for over two years. While some books come from a supplier, many are pre-loved, exchanged, or donated by individuals who are moving or just looking to clear out some of their books. House

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of Prose will also buy your books if they are in demand. Once they’ve been priced, the customer can get 50 per cent of the value in store credit. “We want to promote reading habits and bring more awareness,” said Sreedevi Mohandasbinoy, who now volunteers her time at the House of Prose. Most patrons seemed to have come across the store haphazardly through word of mouth or a lucky google search. “I had heard of it and knew it was somewhere in this area,” Jessica Williams said of her first visit. “It is better than spending money on brand new books, which here can be pretty expensive if you read as much as I do.” But, with only 425 likes on their Facebook page, the staff and management at House of Prose know they need to increase their following and awareness of the shop in general. To this end, they recently hosted their ﬁrst children’s story time book reading and plan to continue adding more community activities. Once readers learn about the shop, they are hooked. Williams echoed the sentiments of all the House of Prose customers, saying, “For someone like me who goes through books pretty fast, a shop like this is great.”

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

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Terry Fox Run and ‘head shave’ organised by TAISM at the school premises.

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

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Music concert ‘Amitabh Aur Main’ concert organised by Light and Shadow Enterprises at the City Amphitheatre. Photos: Purushothaman Kunnummel

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Coaching camp Badminton coaching camp conducted by U. Vimal Kumar at Indian School Muscat.

VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

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Qaid’s Birthday “My Leader is great”, an event organised by Muttrah Tourism Trade & Services at Al Falaj Hotel to commemorate the 139th Birthday of Qaid e Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah.

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VOLUME 10 ISSUE 1 JANUARY 1, 2016

SUDOKU HOW TO PLAY Fill empty cells with the numbers 1 to 9, so that each number appears once in each row, column, and area.

Level | Very Easy

Level | Easy

9 9

4 7

8 9

Level | Difficult

8 7

Level | Moderate

6 3

1 8

2 4

9 5

1 6

6 5

8 8

9 9

7 8

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