OMAN’S LARGEST CIRCULATED WEEKLY – 54,000 COPIES
VOL 9 ISSUE 24 / OCTOBER 2, 2015
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THIS WEEK IN OMAN
CALLIGRAPHY
BILLS BILLS BILLS
DESERT MIRAGE
Explore the craft of beautiful writing with Muscat based calligrapher, Rashmi Gosar. PAGE 22
Learn about the shockingly short history of Omani money from Ibrahim Ahmed Al Fadhli, curator of the Oman Currency Museum. PAGE 20
Escape to Muscat’s newest (and closest) luxury desert camp. PAGE 8
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Give us a shout with questions, comments, compliments, complaints, or just to say “Hi� Founder Essa bin Mohamed Al Zedjali Chairman Mohamed Issa Al Zadjali CEO Ahmed Essa Al Zedjali scottarmstrong@timesofoman.com
Chief Executive Editor Scott Armstrong
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Executive Features Editor Felicia Campbell
hubert@timesofoman.com
Editors Hubert Vaz, Swati Dasgupta
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Chief Sub-Editors Mohammed Shafeeqe, Ashish Dubash ashishdubash@timesofoman.com
Special Correspondent Salim Joseph
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salim@timesofoman.com
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Online Editor Mahran Shaukat Ali
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On The Cover Illustration and Design by Geri Batara Sonny
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THE WEEKEND LINEUP Catch the hottest events that are happening this week in our calendar.
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8:00pm Have a la Risa
Venezuelan stand up comedian and playwright, Emilio Lovera, known as ‘The man with a thousand faces’, is in Muscat this weekend to perform his signature stand up show (in Spanish). Crowne Plaza Hotel +968 2466 0660 thecandyshopentertainment. com
7:00pm See a Rising Star
Photography: Supplied
Look out for local talent in ‘Turandot’, an Opera by Giacomo Puccini, staged by Franco Zeffirelli, as junior artistes from Muscat will be featured in a few of the scenes. Royal Opera House +968 2440 3332 rohmuscat.org.om
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
Go to the Beach
The weather (and the sea water) are finally cooling down, so spend the day swimming and relaxing on shaded lounges at the Capital Area Yacht Centre, between Muttrah and Bustan in Sidab, where a mere OMR 3 entry fee gives you access to the lovely facilities. CAYC Al Saidiya Street, Sidab FB: Captial Area Yacht Club +968 2473 7712
Go on a PhotoWalk 8:30pm Party Bollywood-style If you are a Bollywood buff, don’t miss the chance to party to desi music churned out by DJ Pulse at On the Rocks this weekend. On The Rocks Golden Tulip Seeb +968 2434 6765
Join other shutterbugs at the Portuguese Watch tower to stroll and shoot along the Muttrah Corniche for the 8th Annual Scott Kelby Worldwide Photo Walk. The event fills up quickly, but even if you miss the registration, it is a great place to meet fellow photographers. kelbyone.com/photowalk/ walk/muscat
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Going out of town to see any of these events? Tag us on Instagram @HiWeekly_Oman
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Will you be there this weekend? Show us your pics! Tag us on Instagram #HiWeekend and tell us about it on Facebook.com/HiWeekly
KHALEEJI HAPPENINGS Broadcasting the best events in the GCC
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FIVE TO TRY Speciality Shopping Centres hiweekend@timesofoman.com
Al Araimi Complex
Jawharat A’Shatti
Opera Galleria
Dragon Mart
The shopping arcade close to the Qurum roundabout is filled with perfume and bakhoor shops, and is a great place to find deals on Arabian fragrances. alaraimicomplex.com
Opposite the seafront near the Intercontinental hotel this is a great place to find traditional Omani handicrafts, without the hustle and bustle of the souq, at well curated souvenir shops and the Omani Heritage Gallery. omaniheritage.com
Located adjacent to the Royal Opera House Muscat, this is the poshest shopping complex in town where you’ll find fine perfume shops, high-end antique and art outlets, even designer chocolate dates and French espresso. rohmuscat.org.om
Located on the left-hand side of Highway 1 just before you reach Barka when driving from Seeb, this massive shopping mart is an amazing place for finding deals on all kinds of Chinese imports from electronics to garments to furniture and household goods.
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Thursday, October 1 Bon Jovi Live (Abu Dhabi) Attend a thronging concert by global rock superstar Bon Jovi at Du Arena, Yas Island. With signature tracks like, “You Give Love a Bad Name,” “Livin’ on a Prayer,” “Always,” and “It’s My Life,” crowds are sure to be on their feet all night. Du Arena, Yas Island Tickets: ticketmaster.ae
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Thursday, October 1 Peter Pan: The Never Ending Story (Qatar) Take the kids to watch the spectacular adventures of Peter Pan, performed live by an international cast of acrobats, dancers, stuntmen, and magicians. Qatar National Convention Centre Tickets: +974 4456 5340
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Friday, October 2 IGN International Convention (Bahrain) Attend the popular IGN Convention, a video game, movie, and comic festival, at Bahrain’s International Circuit (Oct 2-3). WWE wrestling legend Booker-T, international cosplay personality Riddle, voice actors Adam Harrington and Dave Fennoy, and Kuwaiti Arabs Got Talent star group, Sheeyab will be in attendance, along with other personalities and comic illustrators. Bahrain International Circuit, Sakhir, +973 3996 8336, ignconvention.com
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Friday, October 2 Ice Warrior Challenge 2015 (Dubai) Test your strength and endurance in freezing cold conditions at the Ice Warrior Challenge at Ski Dubai where contestants tackle monkey bars, mazes, cargo net crawls, and other obstacles in sub-zero temperatures. Ski Dubai, Mall of the Emirates +971 4 409 9257, theplaymania. com/skidubai
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Saturday, October 3 Hilton Dubai Tower Race 2015 (Dubai) Get ready for an uphill run, not along a cliff, but up the 36 floors (730 stairs) of Hilton Dubai Tower. This test of stamina was organised by Hilton Dubai The Walk to raise funds for Emirates Red Crescent. Hilton Dubai Tower +971 4318 2207, premieronline.com/event/Hilton_ Dubai_Tower_Race_2015_1514
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Photography: Supplied
Markaz Al Bahja Near the Al Khoud roundabout, this small mall features international fashion and lifestyle shops, two cinemas, a food court and popular coffee lounges, but is less crowded (with easier parking) than it’s larger counterparts. albahja.com/Alshopping.htm
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ESCAPE TO THE DUNES (NO 4X4 NEEDED)
Muscat’s Desert Mirage
Nestled in a sea of sand, Dunes by Al Nahda Resort feels romantically remote, but the new property is located approximately two hours drive from Muscat, offering the closest, most accessible luxury desert camp in the Sultanate. HiWeekend@timesofoman.com
FRIDAY 10:00am Grab a coffee and head to the new Dunes Resort (dunesbyalnahda.com; contact +968 9723 5700) on either the Sultan Qaboos Highway or the Expressway toward Barka in your saloon vehicle (you are able to reach the resort without a 4WD, however if you are up for dune bashing, you could do so in your own 4WD). 12:00pm Arrive at Dunes by Al Nahda resort. Check in at the striking open-air reception desk, and then wander the property for some fantastic views and photo opportunities. 1:00pm Go to Le Fleur Restaurant for lunch. Start with smoked salmon timbale, gorgeous little salmon parcels filled with avocado and cream fraiche, followed by a sweet lobster teriyaki. 2:00pm Go take a peek around your fabulous tent before heading out for some active fun at the onsite 9-hole green and brown tee golf course, on one of the quad bikes, or sand surfing through the dunes. Parents needn’t worry, there’s an onsite children’s play area and kite surfing for youngsters. 6:00pm Rejuvenate your mind and body at Muscat’s first open air sand spa where you can partake of ancient Egyptian hot sand therapy. 8:00pm Take in the undulating dunes and scenery as you wait for your dinner to arrive. Try the crumbed calamari appetiser and the succulent rosemary lamb chops as your main meal. 9:00pm Retire to your room and end the evening with a chilled fruit platter from room service.
Tell us about you’re ideal weekend getaway: Tweet @HiWeekly_Oman
We wanna see photos! Post on our Facebook page and tag us in your weekend Instagram photos @HiWeekly_Oman
SATURDAY 8:00am Enjoy a continental buffet breakfast in the scenic main restaurant or order your cappuccino from room service, before squeezing in one last activity or spa treatment. 12:00pm Checkout and drive back home in time for lunch. 2:00pm Arrive in Muscat.
For this distinctive treatment, your body will be submerged in sand to chest level, while your upper body will be wrapped in towels. Your neck and face will be covered in locally sourced herbs and your eyes covered with detoxifying chilled potato slices. After 20 minutes in the sand, a therapist will administer a head massage followed by a full body massage using liquidised aloe vera and yoghurt. The treatment is wrapped up with a 15-minute cool down rub which makes use of “Arabian Night” oil infused with oud, frankincense, rose, and sandal wood.
Photography: Courtesy of Dunes
The Sand Spa Signature Treatment
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CAREFREE COUNTRYSIDE The “countryside” conjures up all kinds of romantic images — women with wild flowing hair wading through lavender fields in provincial France, girls dancing barefoot across cool Moorish tiles in farmhouses in southern Spain, or ladies reading leisurely in the shade of old oak trees. Channel your inner country girl with whimsical accessories in soft shades. TEXT FELICIA CAMPBELL PHOTOGRAPHY SHABIN E
Powder Blue Summer Flats from Parfois, Qurum City Centre (Avenues Mall and Muscat City Centre), +968 2455 8183, parfois.com, OMR 9.900
Mediterranean Tile Printed Wallet from Parfois, Qurum City Centre (Avenues Mall and Muscat City Centre), +968 2455 8183, parfois.com, OMR 9.900
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Provincial Purple Satchel Purse from Splash, Centrepoint, Al Khuwair, +968 9647 3106, splashfashions.com, OMR 15
Sweet Tweet Bird Bangles from Splash, Centrepoint, Al Khuwair, +968 9647 3106, splashfashions.com, OMR 1.200
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What’s on your wishlist? Tell us about it HiWeekend@timesofoman. com
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Modern Curves This uber-modern set by Sola Cutlery can be found at Al Alami, Avenues Mall, +968 9984 9970, OMR 50
Table Art Transform your dinner table with fine cutlery. Heavy and well-made with subtle detailing, these utensils serve up as much style as they do sustenance. felicia@timesofoman.com STORY FELICIA CAMPBELL PHOTOGRAPHY ALI JANI
Draw the Line Etched handles add texture and style to this silver cutlery set at Al Alami in Avenues Mall, +968 9984 9970. OMR 23
Show us your fabulous finds on Instagram @HiWeekly_ Oman or on Facebook.com/ HiWeekly
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Raised Issues
Subtle Accent
simple lines mark the hilt of the pieces in this pure silver set, available at Al Alami, Avenues Mall, +968 9984 9970. OMR 99
*If you want to get your hands on these frames, they are available at Home Centre
These playful eating enablers are available at Home Centre, Al Khuwair, +968 2208 6000, homecentrestores.com. OMR 14.900
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Do you have a beautiful space to feature in Hi? Tell us about it HiWeekend@ timesofoman.com
Inspired to recreate one of the Hi Spaces? Show us before and after pics on Facebook.com/HiWeekly
A ROOM OF ONE’S OWN
For the Dutch ambassador, creating a distinctive space at the fully furnished residence required a light hand, a soft palette, and lots of flowers. STORY PATRICIA GROVES PHOTOGRAPHY NADA EL SAYED
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itting on the sofa at the Dutch Residence, I watched the barely discernible pattern of the embroidered leaves falling across the translucent curtains as the Ambassador, Barbara Joziasse, explained her design challenge to me. Her residence came fully furnished, and though she wanted the sitting room in particular to be to her taste, could not change the furniture, only the decoration. Barbara thought colour might be the key to transforming the room.
Hoping to open up the room and brighten the nondescript beige of the sofas, she chose a delicate palette of white, silver and blue. The crisp, white curtains, pale porcelain-blue walls, and silver accents on cushions, vases, and candelabra seem to have done just that, but it was her choice of floral arrangements and paintings that imbued the room, and indeed the entire house, with its life and personality. There were cascades of roses with rubytipped petals; a fern-like bouquet rising from a glass bowl on a long stem; and real oranges and apples suspended among ‘floating’ glass balls in a wide bowl. This particular piece of floral art reminded me of a still life painting by the Old Dutch Masters. The paintings on the
walls, however, were decidedly modern. As we walked through the room, Barbara told me their story. “In the Netherlands, Foreign Affairs has a collection of Dutch paintings and ambassadors can make personal selections for their residences. The problem is that usually the best paintings are long gone. I was lucky to be there when a new shipment arrived and so I had a wonderful range of choice. The artists here, Cobra [COBRA (Copenhagen (Co) Brussels (Br), Amsterdam (A)) period which began in the 1950s ] and their ‘contemporaries’, are of that generation which was born in the early twentieth century. Their personal and family histories were linked to
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THE DETAILS Borrow Barbara’s delicate colour palette for a fresh canvas, and add your own distinctive flair with art and creative floral arrangements
SILVER ACCENTS Find silver home decor from candle sticks to stylish oversized dishes at Home Centre, Al Khuwair +968 2460 1569, homecentrestores.com
FLORAL TOUCH If floral arrangements aren’t your forte, you can still bring in a touch of modern, feminine flair with floral inspired contemporary pieces, like this rose globe lamp from Marina Home Interiors, Avenues Mall, +968 2459 1483, marinahomeinteriors.com
the First and Second World Wars. The aspect of this art that I really love is the sense of building of a new post-war world and the hope and innovation that it brought. For instance, the reason that Rotterdam is so modern is that it was completely destroyed in the war. Every stone in the city was blown apart and the entire city had to be re-built.” The rebirth of her residence certainly required more subtlety than the rebirths that inspired the work of the artists hanging on her walls. Remarkably, being in her space, I felt both an unmistakable Dutch sensibility and the warmth, humour, and immediate likeability of the ambassador herself. An inspiration for those who long to make a space their own.
GREAT VASES Finding the right vase is the first step in creating your own creative fruit or floral arrangements, find a wide selection, from the intricate to the simple at houseware superstores like Home Centre, Al Khuwair +968 2460 1569, homecentrestores.com and Homes R Us, MGM, +968 2439 6160, homesrusgroup.com
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Show us your meat sticks on Instagram @HiWeekly_Oman
or at Facebook.com/ HiWeekly
DINE IN / DINE OUT
MESHKAK & MORE STORY FELICIA CAMPBELL
PHOTOGRAPHY ALI JANI
Throughout Muscat, traditional Omani foods, from shuwa to dates are being given playful twists, from luban ice cream to date lava cakes, and now, the same can be said for the beloved meat-sticks known as Mishkak or Mishakik. Typically sold from smoking grills set up along the roadsides around Muscat or whipped up at casual barbecues or for Iftars during Ramadan, skewers of grilled meat are doused with a healthy dose of tangy, spicy tamarind hot sauce. At Meshkak & More in Al Khoud, you can enjoy popular evening snacks in the comforts of a casual, stylish restaurant, in both
its traditional stick form (in both lamb and chicken) s along with a slew of homemade sauces, or as a del mishkak sandwich. The playful menu offers miniature fa spicy falafel quesadillas, and even a "meat salad" opu topped with chicken mishkak, chips, and cheese. Ado similar hours to the grill men along the byways, the resta is open from 4pm-1am, but really gets lively after Meshkak & More, Al Barakat Street, Al Khoud (just off o roundabout near Tariq Bin Taimur Mosque), +968 9526 Instagram: @Meshkak_More
served licious alafels, ulently opting aurant 9pm. of the 5639,
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Who has the best Mishakik in Muscat? Tweet @HiWeekly_Oman
MISHAKIK
PEPPERY BEEF SKEWERS WITH SPICY TAMARIND SAUCE Makes 14 to 16 skewers
INGREDIENTS Marinade • 1 (2 1/2-inch) piece tamarind paste • 1/2 cup boiling water • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom • 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 2 teaspoons kosher salt • 1 1/2 pounds beef steak, such as sirloin, flank, or round, cut into 1-inch pieces Sauce • 1/2 plum tomato • 2 cloves garlic • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar • 14 to 16 bamboo skewers, soaked in water 10 minutes
INSTRUCTIONS • To make the marinade, place the tamarind paste and boiling water in a small bowl and soak 15 to 20 minutes. Mash the tamarind in the water, breaking up the paste well by hand. Strain into a bowl or measuring cup through a sieve, using a wooden spoon to press and mash the pulp, extracting as much liquid as possible. Reserve the liquid for the marinade and sauce; discard the pulp and seeds. • Combine the cumin, red pepper flakes, black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, salt, and 2 tablespoons of the tamarind juice in a medium bowl to make a thick, paste-like marinade. Add the beef and mix well by hand to coat the pieces evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and chill 20 minutes. • To make the sauce, in a blender, purée the tomato, 3 tablespoons of the tamarind juice, garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and vinegar. Add up to 2 tablespoons water if necessary to thin out. Pour the sauce into a shallow baking dish. • Heat a grill or a cast-iron grill pan to medium-high. Thread 5 or 6 pieces of marinated beef onto each skewer; grill 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on thickness, until the beef is charred and tender. Roll the cooked beef skewers in the tamarind sauce to lightly coat and serve on their own or with a flatbread. Recipe courtesy of “The Food of Oman: Recipes and Stories from the Gateway to Arabia” (Andrews McMeel, 2015) by Felicia Campbell
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RAISING EYEBROWS Eyebrows, an essential aspect of facial beauty, are particularly celebrated here in the Middle East, perhaps because the facial features of women who wear abaya and hijab, are particularly highlighted. Eva Hulejova, the manager of Muscat Beauty Centre in SABCO Centre, Qurum shares her insights into the current eyebrow trends in the capital.
STORY SHRUTHI NAIR ILLUSTRATION WINIE ARIANY Define your Parameters Eva explained that finding the ideal shape of your brows can be determined in three simple steps: Place a straight object, like a ruler or pencil: A On the inner bridge of the nose going up to the top of the eyebrow. (Not the outer part of the nose.) This is where the brow should begin. B On a diagonal from the outer corner of
the nose to the crease of the eye (and keep going to the brow bone) for where the eyebrow should end. C From the outer iris (the colour of
the eye) to the top of the eyebrow for where the high point or the arch of the brow should be. Shape the Right Way To maintain your ideal shape, eyebrows can be threaded, waxed, or plucked using tweezers. However, plucking is not ideal, because the hair may not get uprooted properly and can lead to in-grown hair and though waxing does take the hair off from its roots, it is not as effective for creating sharp, well defined brow shape. Threading, on the other hand, is considered to be the best hair-removal method of the
three as it removes hair from the root, helps to give any shape as per choice, and lasts for around 2-3 weeks. Select the Right Shape Make sure the shape of your eyebrows compliment your facial structure. Women with a round face usually tend to go for a highly arched eyebrow to creating more vertical lines which can help make the face look lengthier. A flat eyebrow does perfectly well for an oval face as the horizontal line would ‘stop’ the eye and thus minimise the elongation of the face. For an oval face, a softly rounded eyebrow is suitable. If the face is square-shaped, then a crisp, angled eyebrow, depending on the jawline, is best. An eyebrow with a gentle curve works for someone with a diamond shaped face by softening the broader parts of the face. Thick or Thin? In Oman, local women tend to favour thick, but well maintained brows, while most European and western expatriates prefer to keep theirs lighter and thinner. But the global trend is moving more towards a fuller brow, so why not experiment with the shape or fullness next time you are due for a shape-up? shruthi@timesofoman.com
Do you have before and after pics to share? Instagram @HiWeekly_Oman
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OVAL
ROUND
For an oval face, a softly rounded eyebrow enhances the face structure
A round face is perfect for highly arched eyebrows, which makes the face look lengthier
LONG A at eyebrow helps to make especially long faces look shorter
SQUARE An angled eyebrow is best suited for a square-shaped face
DIAMOND An eyebrow with a soft curve works best with a diamond shaped face as it adds softness
For a brow consultation, contact: Muscat Beauty Salon, SABCO Centre, Qurum Telephone: +968 2456 2541 Email: muscatbeautysalon@hotmail.com
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All About the Money ASK AN OMANI
EVOLUTION OF THE OMANI CURRENCY The Sultanate of Oman has centuries-old trade ties with neighbouring Arab, African, and South Asian countries. By comparison, the national currency has a shockingly short history. Ibrahim Ahmed Al Fadhli, curator of the Oman Currency Museum, explains the evolution of Omani cash. STORY SHRUTHI NAIR PHOTOGRAPHY SHABIN E.
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s a major player in the ancient trade routes of the Indian Ocean and Arabia, Oman has seen its fair share of commerce over the centuries which makes it rather surprising that, for most of it’s trading history, it was without a common currency of its own. In ancient times, the value of coins was determined by the metal used in minting them, so no matter where the coins were produced, they had a common value among traders. As economies developed, the value of the coins being used in circulation shifted from being determined based on their metal to being dictated by economic factors. By the dawn of the modern era, Oman did not have coins of its own because its past coinage had been discontinued on being withdrawn by the rulers, converted into jewellery or just lost or buried. Its place was taken by a miscellany of coins that were both Islamic and non-Islamic. With the fall of the Caliphates and the rise of the Nation-State in Middle East in the early 20th century, currency shifted again from the common valuation system. Still, without a currency of its own, prior to the 1940s, the Indian Rupee was used along Oman’s coast and the Maria Teresa Thaler circulated in the interiors. In fact, in 1890, ½ and ¼ anna was specifically minted for circulation in Muscat and Oman by ruler Faisal bin Turki. In 1970, a coinage for all of Muscat and Oman was introduced with denominations of 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 and 100 baisa. Oman’s first national currency came not in the form of coins, but of notes — broad bills known as Rial Saidi, which were issued in 1970 by The Sultanate of Muscat and Oman (as the state was then called). The notes carried images of significant forts on the obverse and Oman’s national emblem, the khanjar on the reverse, and were green, brown, violet, olive green, blue, and deep blue in colour. The second series of the bank notes were issued less than two years later in 1972 by the newly formed Oman Currency Board under His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said. These notes looked similar to the first series, which made them quite susceptible to counterfeit. So less than five years into their circulation, they too had to be reworked to increase the security of the currency, with the third series being issued in 1977, with the highest denomination bills featuring a portrait of His Majesty, while the smaller notes depicted various other national symbols, like national arms and the khanjar. Coins were issued in 1975 and continue to be circulated in 5, 10, 25, and 50 baisas denominations to this day. The 4th series of bills were issued in 1985 and the fifth, which is still in circulation today, in 1995. All the notes, big and small, carry the portrait of His Majesty as well as images of iconic landmarks and national symbols like the Bahla Fort, Sultan Qaboos Sports Complex, the white oryx, and the Omani khanjar. The notes, which are issued in 100 baisa, 1/2 rial, 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 rial denominations, have the highest security amendments to date, which is a very good thing, because this young money happens to represent a currency with the 3rd highest unit value in the world. —shruthi@timesofoman.com
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DIFFERENT
Initially a form of decorative writing used for religious texts, nowadays the art of calligraphy can be found in everything from company logos to tattoos. Muscat based calligrapher, Rashmi Gosar, describes the evolution of artful writing and her pursuit of its perfection. STORY ASHISH DUBASH
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alligraphy is a visual art that has been practised since ancient times. The name itself, derived from two Greek words Kalli, which means beautiful, and Graphia, which means writing, calligraphy uses the characters of the written word to create intricate designs, lettering executed with a broad tip instrument, dip pen, or brush. Contemporary calligraphic practice has been defined as, "the art of giving form to signs in an expressive, harmonious, and skilful manner". The origins of this art form have been traced back to different points in different places, to the 3rd or 4th century in Southeast Asia and the 11th century in Europe, but it is difficult to pin point the exact date or era of its first use. It is known in countries throughout Asia by many names: Shufa in Chinese (literally, the method or law of writing); Shodō in Japanese (the way or principle of writing); Seoye in Korean (the art of writing); Thu’ pháp in Vietnamese (the way of letters or words); and Husn Al Khatt (beautiful strokes) in Arabic. Calligraphy is rooted in religion, mainly used as decorative writing for holy books, though it has evolved into a more commercial form of decorative art, used for events, company logos, jewellery design, home decor, and as the subject of many pieces of contemporary Islamic art. There are many famous artists pursuing and promoting this form, including Timothy Botts, Mir Emad Hassani, Rudolf Koch, Ouyang Xun, Mary Hart, Qamar Dagar and, a popular contemporary Arabic calligrapher, Khaleelullah Chemnad. Here in Muscat, Rashmi Gosar practises the
Workshops and exhibitions on calligraphy are periodically held at The Omani Society for Fine Arts. For details e-mail osfa.gov@gmail.com or Contact : +968 2469 4969
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art form, which captured her heart 15 years ago, and hopes to help introduce others to this craft of decorative lettering. “My first brush with the art, was during summer vacation in 2000. I was just wandering and, on my mother’s insistence, I joined a calligraphy class in our neighbourhood. Initially, I found it very difficult to even hold a pen but once I started writing, I developed an interest. Later on, I got busy with my higher studies, but the interest I had in the art inspired me to give classes to our neighbourhood children during my vacations. After marriage I shifted to Muscat. Here with one child in a new place, I felt confined to my house, so I thought of practising and polishing my skills. As my friends came to know about my hobby, some of them showed interest in learning more, so I took it as an opportunity to volunteer and promote calligraphy here.” “It is not very difficult to learn calligraphy provided one is exposed to the proper professionals under a suitable environment,” Rashmi explains. Though the technique has remained the same, the tools and supplies used for calligraphy have changed a bit throughout the years. Ancient calligraphers used stiff bristled paint brushes and pens made from wood or large feathers that were dipped into bottles of ink for writing. Now, the principal tools for a calligrapher are the pen, which may be flat-balled or round-nibbed, and a brush. For some decorative purposes, multinibbed pens and steel brushes can also be used. Writing ink is usually water-based and is much less viscous than the oil-based inks used in printing and high quality paper, which has good consistency of adsorption, enables cleaner lines. There are many factors that influence the final result like the shape, size, stretch and hair of brush, the colour combination of the ink as well as the paper’s water absorption speed and surface texture, but the most important factor is the technique, from the quantity of ink the brush is allowed to take, to the pressure, inclination and direction of the strokes. “Calligraphy is not an art which you can learn and are done. One has to practise it to attain perfection or, one can say, to progress in this form of art.” As one practises one can learn to produce thinner or bolder strokes, smooth or toothed borders, and eventually the speed, accelerations, decelerations of the writer’s moves, turns and
FINE ART AND FASHION CALLIGRAPHY IN OMAN Calligraphy holds a special place in the art of Oman, and has reached a new level, in which the image becomes a poetic palette of colour, as the literal meanings of the forms come into focus, or transform into "arabesques" which merge and disappear. The modern calligraphy of Oman disengages from the textual declaration and works freely with the letters as abstract signs in their own right. You can observe this style in the work of prominent Omani calligraphers, namely, Madny Al Bakry. Omani Society for Fine Arts, Bait Al Zubair, and many other art galleries across the city regularly exhibit calligraphy artworks which are also often available for purchase. Artworks from many prominent Omani calligraphers like Saleh Al Shukairy and Madny Al Bakry are also available online. Find calligraphic home decor and antiques at the Muttrah Souq, where you can also have a custom designed pendant or keychain designed at traditional silver shops, like Al Nazim (Contact:+968 9302 6102) where the artist will create a one-of-a-kind silver piece featuring your name using custom calligraphy, usually for about OMR 15.
ART AND ISLAM Just as the art of the Occident was influenced over the ages by Christianity, the traditional art of Arabia has been influenced by Islam. Islam prohibits the naturalistic depiction of living creatures since this would be a new act of creation — a human pretension to also possess divine power. As a result of this attitude in Arabia a very highstanding and complex form of art script — calligraphy — was developed. The characters are released from their fixed grammatical position and positioned freely on the page, based on creative whims, or are reconstituted to form new "type faces". The literal sense in calligraphy is not encompassed by a line-by-line reading of the letters but rather of the general impression made by viewing the complete word or sentence.
crochets become natural. “There can be different levels in its course depending upon the interest of the pursuer. Anyone can learn calligraphy as long as they put in the effort in polishing their skills. The angle of writing is most important. The rhythm, layout and interweaving patterns come naturally. It can be picked up quite fast but, I would dare say, a good calligrapher takes years to mould." Rashmi herself developed interest because of faux calligraphy. “Cheating calligraphy” is what Rashmi calls the gorgeous thick and thin cursive style that she learned to make using a dip pen. It’s not technically “cheating”, as it’s still calligraphy, just without a traditional dip pen. The short-cut technique is sometimes used to write on irregular surfaces, or when an artist just doesn't want to deal with the mess of getting out ink and dip brushes. For crafting simple phrases on paper, this technique is fun and renders awesome results every time, and is important for those interested in writing on non-paper surfaces like chalkboards, walls, and on small round objects, to know. "I firmly believe that anyone can create modern calligraphy. Even if one thinks that their
handwriting is horrible, there is someone out there who would like it on their wedding invitations provided one writes with a dip pen.” Though there are still enthusiasts like Rashmi, with the increased use of computers and digitised calligraphy fonts, the commercial interest in hand-written calligraphy has waned, making it difficult for traditional, professional calligraphy artists to make a living using their craft, which poses a threat to the preservation of this form. “Traditional calligraphers need to come together to protect their profession. There is a need to bring them together under one umbrella through societies or associations. Calligraphy should be taught in fine arts colleges and exhibitions, and workshops should be organised to make people aware of this niche art form as well as to encourage them to take it up professionally.” Rashmi hopes that she can help to preserve this ancient art. “There is a misconception about calligraphy that it is only related to religion but it's not so. It can be a part of your daily life. It is very important to come up with an intensive programme to make people aware of the very beautiful art of writing and expressing thoughts.” ashishdubash@timesofoman.com
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Left: Folio 27r from the Lindisfarne Gospels (c.700) contains the incipit from the Gospel of Matthew; Top right: Chinese antique calligraphy on parchment; Bottom right: The Georgian calligraphy is centuries-old tradition of an artistic writing of the Georgian language with its three scripts.
THE ART OF THE ARAB WORLD
Arabic calligraphy has taken the written word far beyond pen and paper into all art forms and materials.
A
lthough the development of sophisticated calligraphy as an art form is not unique to Arab culture — other examples include Chinese and Japanese calligraphy and illuminated Bibles. In the Arabic world, calligraphy has been used to a much greater extent and in astonishingly varied and imaginative ways, taking the written word far beyond pen and paper into all art forms and materials, incorporated into everything, from architecture to fashion. For these reasons, calligraphy is considered an especially distinct and important feature of Arab culture. The genius of Arabic calligraphy lies not only in the endless creativity and versatility, but also in the balance struck by calligraphers between transmitting a text and expressing its meaning through a formal aesthetic code. The two predominant styles used in Arabic calligraphy are the Kufic and Nashk styles. Kufic is the oldest form of the Arabic script.
The style emphasises rigid and angular lines, which appears as a modified form of the old Nabataean script. It was the main script used to copy the Holy Quran from the 8th to 10th Century and went out of general use in the 12th Century when the flowing Naskh style become more practical, although it continued to be used as a decorative element to contrast superseding styles. Naskh is a specific calligraphic style that became popular after Kufi style, thought to be invented by the calligrapher Ibn Muqlah Shirazi. A well-defined cursive called Naskh first appeared in the 10th Century. The root of this Arabic term nasakh - means “to copy." With small modifications, it is the style most commonly used for printing Arabic, Persian, Pashto and Sindhi languages. It is written using a small, very fine pen known as a ‘cava’ pen, which makes the script eminently suitable for use in book production. It was and is still a very widely used form of script and has become
the basis of modern Arabic print. Arabic calligraphy has outgrown its initial purpose of writing for communication to become a form of independent art that has been widely used, from writing the words of the Holy Quran, to quotes and poetry, and creating abstract art. Contemporary calligraphers exploit the inherent possibilities of the Arabic script to use writing as an ornament. An entire word can give the impression of random brushstrokes, or a single letter can develop into a decorative knot. Even now in the digital era, modern designers and calligraphers are using Arabic calligraphy as an essential element of their designs. Unlike old Arabic calligraphy, which used to be written in ink with a pen or dried bamboo, modern calligraphy experiments with different materials, such as acrylic paint, water colour, oil paint, graphics, sculpture clay, and even precious metals for jewellery. INFORMATION COURTESY OF BAIT AL ZUBAIR'S GALLERY SARAH
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STORY FELICIA CAMPBELL ILLUSTRATION GERI BATARA
I was sitting at lunch with an Omani girlfriend the other day and we were talking about our travel styles and what we like to do when we go abroad. She mentioned an upcoming trip with her husband, and I asked her what his hobbies were. She thought for a minute, and said, “Well, he likes trying new restaurants and drinking coffee at cafes.” I had never heard drinking coffee referred to as a pastime, but it happens to be something I also love to do, though I usually pretend to be more active when listing my hobbies. Honestly, these days, after a long week at work, one of my favourite weekend “activities” is with a coffee or tea and staring out at the ocean. Sometimes I bring along a girlfriend and we add gossip to the mix, but many a lazy Saturday, I happily sit alone. Needless to say, I have visited nearly every seaside coffee shop in central Muscat at this point, mostly concentrated in Qurum. Where do you like to have coffee? Share your favourites with us @HiWeekly
Marina Café Near the Bangladesh Embassy, at the end of the road next to the park +968 9911 3344
Pros • All-glass building on the beach has incredible views with comfortable air conditioning • Good food • Good tea and juice • Strong Internet • Outdoor seating during winter
The Address Café Jawarat Al Shatti Location: Above the mall and Costa Coffee. +968 2440 4200
Pros • Hidden above the mall, with good views and nice ambience • Good food • Attentive service • Good free Wi-Fi
Cons • Espresso drinks are very bitter • Service can be slow • Tables by the windows fill up quickly during peak hours
Cons
Al Makan Café MGM Roof of the MGM Mall +968 2454 5311 almakan.com
Pros • While not directly on the sea, the high vantage point offers excellent views of the city and the ocean • Nice atmosphere, low Arabic music playing • Good hot beverages and juices
• No music • Run down • Football on the televisions (could be pro or con depending on your style)
Go for Panoramic sea views and ice cold air-conditioning to accompany fresh juices, red tea with mint, and decent food.
Go for Rooftop vantage point, cozy couches, and the best food of the bunch.
Cons • Weak Wi-Fi • Tables by the windows fill up quickly • Service can be slow
Go for
Intercontinental Hotel Muscat
Great night time views of the sparkling lights of Muscat.
Sultan Qaboos Street
Opera House Muscat
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Best Brews For the best espresso drinks in town, you have to forgo the ocean views, but these three cafes make up for it with excellent cappuccinos, macchiato, and espressos.
Caffe Vergnano 1882 The Avenues Mall, Ghubra first floor, +968 2206 0124 omanavenuesmall.om
Richoux Café Opera Galleria, Qurum +968 2200 5165 restaurantsinternational. co.uk
Al Makan Café Shatti
Costa Coffee Jawarat Al Shatti Ground floor of Oasis by the Sea +968 2447 0609
Pros • Ample outdoor seating overlooking the ocean • Inexpensive • Strong, free Wi-Fi • Good coffee drinks
Cons • No table service • No air conditioning • No food, only pastries
Go for Inexpensive coffee, plenty of outdoor seating, and strong Wi-Fi.
Moorish Café Location: Ground floor of Qurum Beach Resort, behind Jawarat Al Shatti Mall +968 9424 8888
Pros • Beautiful outdoor seating overlooking the property’s garden and sea • Relaxed environment, everyone keeps to themselves • Great mocktail and juice menu
Cons • No Wi-Fi • Espresso drinks are very bitter • Karak is unsweetened • Mediocre food
Shatti Al Qurum road, close to the roundabout +968 2440 4200
Pros • Air-conditioned indoor space with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the sea • Comfortable couch seating • Decent beverages
Cons • Slow service • Mediocre food • Weak Internet • Espresso drinks are very bitter
Go for Comfortable seating, good hot beverages and juices, relaxed environment. Don’t try to get work done here, as your Internet signal will be too weak.
Fauchon Tche Tche
Opera Galleria, Qurum +968 2234 6999 fauchon.com/en
Shatti Al Qurum road, middle of the road, closer to the Crown Plaza end +968 2460 2757, tchetchecafe. com
Pros • Air-conditioned outdoor space on the roof • Power cord plug-ins at every table • Strong, free Wi-Fi • Unencumbered sea view • Nice Arabic music
Cons • Bad food • Expensive drinks • Espresso drinks are very bitter
Go for
Go for
Strong Internet connection, lively hustle and bustle, and the airy roof deck, but when ordering, stick to Nescafé, Moroccan tea, and soft drinks.
A relaxed, higher-end feel, nice fresh juices, and quiet atmosphere that’s good for conversation.
Crowne Plaza
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Onam celebration Onam celebration held at KIMS Oman Hospital, Muscat.
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50th Pakistan Defence Day Celebrations held at Pakistan School Muscat.
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Malabar Gold & Diamonds Opens Outlet in Sohar Malabar Gold & Diamonds, the leading jewellery retailers opened its 135th outlet in Sohar, Oman.
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‘Mars Money Rain’ mega prize distribution by Mars International LLC, initiators of Mars Hypermarkets.