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Away from the Fairways | TEE TIME
THE BEST OF BASEL EVAN RAST SHARES THE FANTASTIC FINDS FROM THIS YEAR’S EDITION OF THE WORLD’S BIGGEST WATCH SHOW.
The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss from Rolex
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only making the pieces more appealing, but also stronger and less vulnerable to scratches. We’ll be bringing these watches to you in parcels over the next months, but for now, and since we are, after all, a sporty bunch (at least I’d like to think so), I thought it apt to present a few of the pieces that would suit our active lifestyles. There were quite a few, in fact, ranging from those rugged, intentionally worn-out, vintagelooking pieces to those that were all about robustness. Rolex, for one, came out with a number of these watches, such as the latest version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, which this time has been fitted with a two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in red and blue, but just the same stays faithful to the codes of the original 1955 model. This unique Cerachrom bezel insert – first introduced in 2005 – was made using a process developed and patented by Rolex. While this special bezel certainly makes the watch more handsome, it also An action-packed serves a more noble purpose week of previews of making it virtually scratchresistant, highly corrosionand launches resistant, and keeping the colours usually equals intact in spite the ultraviolet rays. The piece’s 40mm case – whose an avalanche of mid-section is made from a solid information, block of 18K white gold – is built but this yearly for depths of up to 100 meters, while its winding crown has rendezvous is sheer enjoyment. been fitted with a Triplock triple waterproof system. And at the heart of this remarkable piece is the COSC-certified, self-winding Calibre 3186, which enables the watch’s second time zone, date and perpetual calendar. Another head-turner from arguably the most popular and recognised watch brand today, is here’s no such thing as down time the latest iteration of the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, when it comes to Baselworld. An whose green sapphire crystal first wowed the action-packed week of previews watch world in 2007. This time around, this and launches usually equals an green sapphire crystal looms mightily over an avalanche of information, but to electric blue dial, giving it quite an astounding any watch aficionado, this yearly shade of blue. Rolex first launched the Milgauss rendezvous is sheer enjoyment. in 1956, designed primarily for professionals N ow, i f it w as ab o u t min d - b en din g who are constantly exposed to magnetic fields, innovation, I can’t say this year’s spread was which as we all know enemy number one for entirely impressive. Many of the pieces presented precision timekeeping. Way ahead of its time, the this time around comprised of improvements ground-breaking piece was built to withstand and variations of existing models, which of interferences of up to 1,000 gauss (thus the name, course, is also not entirely bad; innovations, after mille, being French for thousand) while keeping all – real ones, at least – take time. This year’s the accuracy of the watch. This noteworthy pieces do score good points on aesthetics, with piece stands at 40mm, and is waterproof up to many brands going as far as introducing new, 100 metres. Comfort was likewise ensured, many groundbreaking materials for their watches, not thanks to an “Easylink rapid extension system”
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The latest version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, which has been fitted with a two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in red and blue 32
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With the Speedmaster Mark II (top left), Omega revisits the original Speedmaster 45 years after it equipped humans to land on the surface of the moon; Omega’s Speedmaster Professional Appolo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition (top right) 34
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that allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet to to the watch’s tachymeter, which thanks to his or her desired length. If a journey to the centre Superluminova, can be read even in very poor of the earth were possible, this watch sounds like lighting. The 2014 version was also given an it would be your most qualified companion. automatic movement, the Co-Axial Calibre 3330, Omega likewise had its fair featuring a Si14 silicon balance share of testosterone-filled spring and a column-wheel watches, which are, much to chronograph mechanism. The Omega had its the delight of the nostalgic watch is available in a matte black fair share of a n d s p a ce d r e a m e r s o u t or ash grey dial, with the latter testosteronethere, commemorative pieces featuring a fluorescent orange celebrating man’s achievements central chronograph seconds and filled watches – in space. With the Speedmaster minute track. commemorative Mark II, Omega revisits the Another commemorative pieces original Speedmaster 45 years piece paying homage to af ter it equipped the first celebrating man’s N e i l A r m s t r o n g a n d B u z z humans to land on the surface Aldrin’s historical lunar walk, achievements of the moon. The brand came and the Omega watch that in space out with the Speedmaster accomp anie d them, is the Mark II in the same year, with a Speedmaster Professional Apollo more stylish case but features 11 45th Aniversary Limited Edition the same movement found in the original wristwatch, with only 1,969 pieces up for grabs. moon watches. This year, Omega resurrects this Echoing the colours of the moon and the Apollo piece, which while made more contemporary 11 lunar and command modules used, this piece and efficient, kept many of the original’s details. comes in a 42mm gray, titanium case that’s been Improvements were introduced; for instance, completely brushed, and for that added touch HKGOLFER.COM
The Heritage Black Bay from Tudor
given a dash of gold. Blending perfectly well with this rugged-looking case is a black PVD dial, whose 30-minute and 12-hour recorders and small seconds display were made using a special laser, while the indices and hour, minute, seconds and sub-dial hands were superbly crafted from 18K red gold, and its central chronograph hand, plated in red gold. Its 18K Sedna gold bezel was also further enhanced by a matt black ceramic ring with, of course, a tachymeter scale, which as many of the Speedmaster aficionados out there know, is a vital part of this model. These lavish details against the robustness of titanium and covertness of black PVD, matched with a decidedly rugged NATO-inspired fabric strap, I have to say, render quite an impact. When talking enigmatic and rugged, bordering on reckless, one would be hardpressed not to add to the roster, Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay, with which the brand once again shows how remarkably it can meld iconic details with modern designs. The form and very distinguishable domed crystal of the piece remain faithful to Tudor’s first divers’ piece, the Submariner reference 7922 – first introduced HKGOLFER.COM
Zenith’s Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903
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The Boeing Model 1 from Bremont (top), part of the brand’s new Boeing watch range; Arnold & Son’s Time Pyramid, a deserving addition to the brand’s immaculate Instrument Collection 38
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in 1954 – so do its iconic angular hands, or “Snowflakes,” which were mainstays from 1969 to the early 1980s. Updating the piece is its strong, 41mm steel case, a coloured, anodized aluminium crown tube, and interchangeable bracelets. This second iteration (its debut piece introduced in 2012) comes out sharper and dare I say, more dead serious, than the first, thanks to the striking contrast of the watch’s silver hour markers with white luminescent material, against a jet black dial, all encased in a stainless steel case. Toning down this “harshness” is a midnight-blue bezel, which matches the colour of the crown tube. This touch of blue was also meant to keep things as authentic as possible, as in the second half of the 20th century, the Tudor diver watches
that donned the wrists of the French Marines were mostly blue. If I may take you well above sea level for a moment, I’d like to introduce another of Zenith’s homages to flight. With the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903, Zenith would, once again, take us back to that golden era of flight, when the limits of aeronautic engineering were tested and surpassed by remarkable, highly courageous individuals, to whom we owe many of the advances of modern aeronautics. The Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903 honours siblings Wilbur and Orville Wright, who built a glider, which after countless improvements transformed into a twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer,” that was later flown in the Kitty Hawk beaches of North Carolina on December 17, 1903. For this piece, Zenith uses the classic Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20, a watch that was placed in aircrafts used by the French Air Force. The piece, which comes with a second time zone indicator, was modernized with a black DLCcoated titanium case, which also makes the piece lightweight despite hefty 48mm size. Keeping to the vintage feel are its big, Arabic numerals that have been given a worn-out effect, which were also covered with Superluminova for increased legibility. An important thing to remember when making your Baselworld itinerary is that this fair is not only about the big brands whose booths tower over you in Hall 1 – not at the very least. Interestingly enough, it would be in the humbler halls such as The Palace where you are bound to be knocked off your feet with pieces that are just quite simply, impeccably produced, and bolder in character, created by small watch makers who have the luxury of time and the recklessness of youth that most big, long established manufactures don’t have. Bremont is one of those fairly smaller watchmakers; it has been slowly but surely, building a good, reputable name for itself. And since we are in the topic of flight, this UK brand just segues perfectly as it launched at Basel a new Boeing watch range, which comprises of two new models: the Bremont Boeing Model 1 and the Bremont Boeing Model 247. Bremont has in the past incorporated actual parts of a ship, historical artefacts and planes into their watches – a task that could very easily go awry, but Bremont has so far done very skilfully and beautifully. Giles and Nick English brothers impress us again, this time, incorporating actual Boeing airplane materials into the watch. The Boeing Model 1, named after the first aircraft built by Boeing, the B&W, comes in two HKGOLFER.COM
versions, one manufactured from “Custom Perhaps unknown to many, Arnold & Son has 465 Stainless Steel,” a double vacuum-melted roots that stem back to 200 years ago, when alloy developed for the aerospace industry, father and son, John and Arnold Roger, first characterized for their strength, hardness ventured into regulator watches. The duo worked and corrosion resistance. A second version, tirelessly at their La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop, meanwhile, has a case made from Boeing perfecting what they’ve learned about precision aviation-grade Ti-64. Both pieces feature timekeeping, and innovating in areas they saw Bremont’s very own Trip-Tick case construction the need and opportunity. A piece that certainly with integrated crown guard, shows the culmination of these and their BE-36AE movements Arnold & Son has efforts is the Time Pyramid, a suspended in Boeing blue deserving addition to the brand’s roots that stem decorated steel and rubber antiimmaculate Instrument Collection. back to 200 years This watch presents the handshock mounts. The Bremont Boeing Model 247, meanwhile, finished A&S1615 caliber treated ago, when John is a chronograph named after in NAC grey, which was built in and Arnold Roger a highly unique skeletonized and inspired by the first Boeing first ventured into pyramid-shaped struc ture, twin-engine commercial aircraft, as seen in the two ‘twin-like’ regulator watches with the movement appearing sub dials. The piece likewise to be suspended bet ween comes in two versions: the t wo sapphire cr ystals. The first made from custom 465 stainless steel, workmanship and intricacy of the movement and the second manufactured from Boeing can – as it should be – appreciated from the front aviation-grade titanium. and back of its 44.6mm case. The Time Pyramid, And as I am just about wrap up this review, as expected of any piece that comes out of this do permit me to go slightly off course from our manufacture, has been decorated, chamfered rugged and robust theme, and finish off with and polished by hand, and if I may say so myself, a refined piece of haute horlogerie, as I feel it the piece is quite a sight to behold. worthy to highlight another watchmaker whose Certainly, there are still a lot more to cover and watches were what I had in mind when I said, present from the show, which we will try to do in “impeccably made.” the months to come. Stay tuned! HKGOLFER.COM
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