NOW BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS SMARTER,CHEAPER AND BETTER
INDIA
NOVEMBER 2015 /
150
& SOUTH ASIA
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$ 4.50 / SLR 450 / NPR 35 / MVR 60 PKR 30O / BTN 200 / TAKA 350
PLUS BORDEAUX’S BOUTIQUE WINES ANDAMANS WITH DILIP KAPUR
On the Cover
Sharqiya Sands in Oman; page 69. Photograph by Ahmed A-Shukaili.
features
86
The View From Here Istanbul has been a crossroads for centuries. Now the forces of modernity—of art and commerce, globalism and gentrification— have brought the city to another turning point, at one of the most complicated moments in its history. By Carl Swanson. Photographs by Tom Parker
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Lake Effect In Chile’s Lake District, pristine wilderness, crystal-clear rivers, traditional artisans, and luxurious lodges reveal themselves in splendour—and, for Joyce Maynard, offer a fortifying renewal of spirit. Photographs by Martyn Thompson
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F R O M L E F T : TO M PA R K E R ; M A RT Y N T H O M P S O N
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In Every Issue Editor’s Note 6 Contributors 9 Wish You Were Here 104
departments
Here & Now 11
Upgrade 65 The Best New Ways to
News, Trends, Discoveries
Book Your Flights Innovative new apps are one-upping the online travel tools you already know and love. And they’re about to make planning trips faster, easier, and best of all, cheaper. By Nikki Ekstein. Illustrations By Patrik Svensson
Paul Smith’s new travel-friendly suit; Dubai’s Al Fahidi street; Hidesign’s Dilip Kapur reveals his favourite spots in Andamans; Maria Goretti is a compulsive traveller; Sydney sees a boom in Thai cooking; and more.
Beyond 33 Insider Access Expats in India give their stamp of authenticity to this guide featuring cafes and restaurants they frequent. By Anwesha Sanyal
40 On Location What is Soneva Kiri if not for the happiness of little fantastical region was overlooked for more fashionable areas like Stellenbosch. Now that’s changed, thanks to a group of maverick winemakers. By Jane Broughton. Photographs By Sarah Nankin
The Guide 69 101 Magical Ways to Love
the Middle East In this special on the Middle East we have put together a list on what to experience, explore, and expect from the region. If you think you have travelled there enough to know all about it, read on and see if you can strike off all 101.
48 First Person A compulsive planner, Jancee Dunn, set off on a trip with no idea where she was going. Illustration By Lyndon Hayes
50 Wellness Aditi Datta finds out why Kerala still ranks the highest when it comes to authentic Ayurvedic experiences.
54 Offbeat Tea estates, backwater, and wildlife sanctuaries that are a mustvisit. By Apeksha Bhateja. Photographs By Karan Takulia
58 Tasting Tours Bordeaux is an untapped French holiday that reveals itself to a global city-crawler. Photographs by Adil Jain 11
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F R O M L E F T: R U V E N A FA N A D O R ; C O U R T E S Y O F S A N J AY R A M A C H A N D R A N F O R O L I V E B E A C H ; A D I L J A I N L ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E O B E R O I , D U B A I
elements bunged into a luxury resort, finds Anand Kapoor
44 Tasting Notes In the post-apartheid era, South Africa’s Swartland wine
editor’s note | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5
Like when you are sitting all the way out in the middle of South East Asia, but have to write an edit note on an issue on the Middle East! And this, after a full day of meeting hoteliers and luxury travel experts in Singapore telling you all the ways they plan to outmanoeuvre the Middle East in attracting discerning Indian travellers. I must admit I did sit quietly gloating about my people being much wanted and wooed. And while we’ll soon bring to you all the wonderful things in store for you in Singapore that I’ve heard about today, I’m currently even more excited to tell you about our massive 16-page special on the Middle East. We cover over 100 experiences, places of interest, new happenings, latest shopping stops, and of course, loads of things that we know hard-core foodies would love. From magical landscapes in Jordan and Oman, to romantic resorts in Qatar, to finally the newest and glitziest in the Emirates, there’s so much to do, feel and experience, we’re sure you’ll need more than just one Arabian adventure to live it all.
ruchira@emmindia.com @TLRuchira on Twitter @pinterest/ruchirabose
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F R O M M Y T R AV E L S
I was in San Francisco a few weeks ago for a gorgeous evening with Jamie Cullum performing at the St Regis for one of their Jazz legends celebrations. An intimate, stylish and wonderfully charming setting, we hope for more of such experiences at India’s first St Regis that opens this month in Mumbai.
{ FOR MORE PHOTOS FROM OUR TRAVELS FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @TRAVEL ANDLEISUREINDIA
E D I T O R ’ S P H O T O G R A P H : A S H I S H C H AW L A ; M A K E U P B Y V I P I N A R O R A
AS MUCH AS EVERYONE ENVIES MY JOB, I MUST SAY IT DOES HAVE ITS ODD MOMENTS.
The best kept secret of Arabia
The sultanate of oman Beauty has an address
www.omantourism.gov.om www.omantourism.gov.om
There are some places in this world that just have to be experienced for yourself as no amount of words can truly define the exquisite beauty that unfolds before you... that place is Oman. Where the traditions of an ancient land & its people perfectly merge within these modern times.
www.facebook.com/omantourismindia |
Oman Tourism India
INDIA & SOUTH ASIA
EDITOR
Ruchira Bose Aroma Sah Anant Anwesha Sanyal CONTRIBUTING EDITOR-MUMBAI Shilpi Madan FEATURES WRITER Apeksha Bhateja ASSOCIATE EDITOR
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DIGITAL FEATURES EDITOR
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Ritesh Roy PREPRESS EXECUTIVE
Dinesh Masih
ADVERTISING
DELHI
BUSINESS HEAD VICE PRESIDENT / INTERNATIONAL AD SALES Sushmita Gupta Sanjiv Bisaria Siddharth Sinha MUMBAI Shaoni De BENGALURU Indu Bhardwaj
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CIRCULATION & VISIBILITY
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CORPORATE OPERATIONS PUBLISHING DIRECTOR CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER MANAGER (HR) ASSISTANT MANAGER (ADMIN) SENIOR SYSTEM SPECIALIST (IT) EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO MD REPRO
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TIME INC.
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TRAVEL+LEISURE INDIA & SOUTH ASIA
VOL. 9, ISSUE 111 Copyright © 2014 Exposure Media Marketing Pvt. Ltd., 323 Udyog Vihar, Phase IV, Gurgaon – 122016, Haryana. All rights reserved throughout the world. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited. Published by Xavier Collaco from Exposure Media Marketing Pvt. Ltd., 323 Udyog Vihar, Phase IV, Gurgaon – 122016, Haryana. Printed at Thomson Press India Limited, 18/35 Delhi-Mathura Raod, Faridabad, Haryana. Editor: Ruchira Bose. Travel+Leisure does not take responsibility for returning unsolicited publication material. All disputes are subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of competent courts and forums in Delhi/New Delhi only. Opinions expressed in the articles are of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the editors or publishers. While the editors do their utmost to verify information published they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy. Unsolicited material is sent at the owner’s risk and the publisher accepts no liability for loss or damage. Materials in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of Exposure Media Marketing Pvt. Ltd.
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Dilip Kapur
Maria Goretti
Andamans for the Soul page 22 — Born in New Delhi, bred in Puducherry, Dilip Kapur has a PhD in International Affairs from the University of Denver. During his doctorate years, he spent nine months working in a leather company which sparked his passion towards the art of crafting leather. After returning to India, he moved to Auroville, where he started Hidesign, a one-man artisan shop, to design bags for an alternative fashion market abroad. In this issue, we got Kapur to talk about the Andamans where he travels frequently.
Taste Of Nature page 24 — A popular Indian VJ and actor, Maria Goretti is a compulsive traveller and a self-confessed kitchen monster. Goretti enjoys an adventurous life, she goes trekking and hiking often, and loves being amidst nature. She also fancies walking through culturally-rich cities of the world and savouring the local cuisine. Her experiments in the kitchen motivated her to author the cookbook From My Kitchen To Yours that released recently. Inside, she talks about few of her memorable travels and the unforgettable food experiences there.
TOP: COURTESY OF DILIP K APUR
CONTRIBUTOR
CONTRIBUTOR
1 2
contributors | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5
1
the conversation
LAY OF THE LAND
The annual list of best and worst airports by travel website Sleeping in Airport is out, and we know where we are not landing any time soon—Port Harcourt International Airport in Nigeria. Meanwhile, Singapore’s Changi International Airport is still the front runner. BURNING QUESTION
On flights, in malls and restaurants, and elsewhere—we have all been in places where kids around us are creating a ruckus. What do you do in such situations? | Do you request the parents to control them a little? | Do you glare at the parents hoping they’ll take the hint? | Do you nicely tell the kid to behave? | Do you ignore it, thinking well, kids will be kids? | Or, do you leave/ask to be seated elsewhere?
RESPONSE
We asked you what you would do if a co-passenger or diner is misbehaving with the staff, and here are the results.
50%
would complain to the head flight attendant or manager.
Email (travelandleisure@emmindia.com) or tweet us (@TNLIndia) your answers, and we’ll publish the sharpest ones in our next issue.
would confront the person if it gets out of hand.
15%
would let the person fight his/her own battle.
EYE OPENER
The Ginger Hotels’ Bucket List Study 2015 has revealed that Indian women are going all out for their travel and career dreams. Money and relationship goals come in last on their lists. Meanwhile, men think of relationships as their most important life goal; travel and money are secondary, while career is the least of their priorities.
THE BEST PICKS FROM OUR INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS.
Share an Instagram photo by using #TLIndiaPicks hashtag, and it may get featured in an upcoming issue. Follow @travelandleisureindia.
#TLINDIAPICKS
35%
@andreamarcum sends a picture from Varanasi.
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A unique restaurant at The Grub Fest, by @digitizingfood.
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@theincurableromantic from Anjuna Beach in Goa.
The Diocese of Medak in Telangana, by @gautamseervi.
NEWS + TRENDS + DISCOVERIES
The Flex Factor
Dancer Storyboard P leaps across a New York rooftop in a new travel-friendly suit designed to be as supple as it is sophisticated.
ST Y L I ST : JA N E B I S H O P. G R O O M I N G : LU I S G U I L L E R M O U S I N G D I O R H O M M E / O R I B E H A I R CA R E AT FACTO RY D OW N TOW N , U S
BY THESSALY LA FORCE PHOTOGRAPHS BY RUVEN AFANADOR
When you’re the dancer Storyboard P, life keeps you moving. “It’s a voice,” he says, describing what he feels when he dances. “It’s this inner momentum that’s motivating the direction I go, how long I hold a move, when I should change it, what should come out.” At the age of 25, Storyboard has already made a name for himself performing on and off
the streets of Brooklyn, where he grew up. He’s the king of flex, an improvisational style of dance that’s equal parts balletic grace and strong hits, marked by contortionist stunts and smooth footwork. Recently his moves have landed him roles in music videos, with hip-hop stars such as Jay Z, and a performance at Mass MoCA. So who better to give Paul Smith’s new ‘A Suit to Travel In’ a test run? Storyboard, who is handsome with wide-set eyes and has a soft way of speaking, danced (on a Brooklyn rooftop, in Nike Air Raids) for photographer Ruven Afanador to Don Henley’s ‘Boys of Summer,’ subjecting the suit’s high-twist fibres to his particular athleticism. (He cites Fred Astaire and Michael Jackson as inspirations, and though he has some ballet training, he is largely self-taught from 1990s music videos and his peers.) The suit stood up. “I was expecting it to rip,” he admits. “The last time I wore a suit, it ripped. I went out and I was dancing. I was kind of embarrassed.” Where does he hope his talents will take him next? “I would love to go to Morocco,” he says. “Or Saudi Arabia. Enchanting places.”
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SUIT UP “I travel all the time and often have to rush straight from the plane or train to a shop event or even to stand up in front of an audience at a talk, so having a suit that looks fresh is important to me,” says Paul Smith. The British designer had high expectations when searching for a fabric that could withstand a relentless travel schedule that those in the fashion world know so well. Made in styles for both men and women from 100 per cent New Zealand wool, with a high-twist yarn, this creaseresistant suit—which comes in three classic colours (black, navy, and dark grey), and in three different fits—has the corozo-nut buttons that are extra hard. Smith adds: “It’s vital to have a suit that springs back to life easily.” `80,000; paulsmith.co.uk.
GETAWAY
All That Sparkles
FROM TOP: The
Lighthouse Restaurant & Rooftop Bar at The Fullerton Hotel Singapore; the Orchard Road in Singapore.
Carollers cruising down the Singapore River; Orchard Road twinkling with lights and Christmas decorations; and restaurants buzzing with their Yelutide menus— Singapore is all geared up to give you a merry Christmas. Add to that a ‘snowy day’ at the Universal Studios Singapore and powdery slopes of Snow City, and you have the perfect white Christmas. Spreading the holiday cheer, The Fullerton Hotel Singapore is offering a special package for revellers this season. This heritage property ironically has the best views of Singapore’s new skyline. It’s also the best place to witness
the wonderful display of New Year fireworks on the river. Take a walk to the nearby Victoria Theatre, the new National Gallery of Singapore, and the Merlion Park or simply be enchanted with the view from the The Lighthouse Restaurant & Rooftop Bar— this is the best time of the year to watch all the twinkle and glitters of the city. US$250 upwards per night for stay in the Courtyard Room; inclusive of breakfast for two at the riverside Town Restaurant, complimentary heritage guided tours, late check-out, in-room Internet access; till January 31. fullertonhotel.com
TRENDING French couture brand Balmain has collaborated with highstreet retailer H&M for the glamourous Balmain x H&M collection. It made its runway debut in New York with stunners Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Joan Smalls walking the ramp. Keep your carts and cards ready when the collection including embroidered tops and beaded jackets launches this month. hm.com
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BRUNCH IT UP
Warming Spreads There is no better time for a lazy brunch than a nippy November afternoon. Chilly enough for a table under the sunshine and warm enough to not make the teeth clatter, this is the season for sangrias and breads, woodfired pizzas and seafood dressed with herbs and butter, and waffles and truffle trolleys. Kafe Fontana at Taj Palace, New Delhi has prepared a feast with live grills and sushi counters, tempting cheese displays, a Bloody Mary and Mimosa bar, a special kids’ menu, and live entertainment. `3,100 plus taxes with champagne; tajhotels.com
C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P : C O U RT ESY O F T H E F U L L E RTO N H OT E L S I N GA P O R E ; C O U RT ESY O F TA J PA L AC E , N E W D E L H I ; C O U RT ESY O F H & M ; S H U T T E R STO C K
THIS HOLIDAY SEASON, GIVE THE FESTIVITIES AN ASIAN TWIST AT THE FULLERTON HOTEL SINGAPORE.
ELEMIS
Enriched with ginkgo biloba and algae, the Pro-Collagen Marine Cream for Men (`5,208; elemis.com) diminishes fine lines and leaves a clean glow.
DOPP KIT
Face Forward
THE LATEST INNOVATIONS IN ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE ARE DESIGNED TO HYDRATE AND FIGHT WRINKLES ON THE GO.
CHANEL
La Solution 10 de Chanel (`5,230; chanel. com), formulated for sensitive skin in collaboration with renowned dermatologist Amy Wechsler, contains soothing silverneedle-tea concentrate.
LA MER
Essential oils and lime-tea concentrate in La Mer’s Renewal Oil (US$240; cremedelamer. com) hydrate and prevent skin damage.
LA PRAIRIE L
The aromatic Future ure Solution LX Replenishing Treatment atment Oil (US$175; $175; shiseido.com) eido.com) can be used on the face, body, hair,, and nails, or even ven blended with h your favourite ourite moisturiser. sturiser.
DIOR
The base of Prestige La Crème ( `23,457; dior. com) contains an extract of roses grown in Dior’s own garden in the Loire Valley, resulting in a lux urious cream that improves skin elasticity.
NEW IN
Founder’s Edition
One of the finest single malt whiskey brands in the world, The Glenlivet gives you a good reason to celebrate this festive season. The brand has recently set a benchmark by adding to its core range The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve as a tribute to its founder George Smith. Priced at `4,750, the smooth fruity flavour of this premium spirit complements the First Fill American oak cask perfectly, setting unique standards. Watch out for this special edition at duty free stores and other select markets.
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S Skin Caviar Concealer and Foundation SPF 15 (`16,313; laprairie.com) is genius in a compact bottle— it’s great for dark circles after a long flight, and there’s a built-in applicator. — JACQUELINE GIFFORD
OBSESSION If your airline doesn’t have a practice of collecting foreign change for charity, track down a TravelersBox at the airport. These automated yellow kiosks, which are popping up in terminals from India to Brazil, turn local bills and coins into universally accepted gift cards for big brands like Starbucks and iTunes. Or you can choose to have the money deposited into your PayPal account. (A small processing fee applies.) Just type in your e-mail address, insert your cash, and within 48 hours, TravelersBox will send instructions on how to redeem your credits online. travel ersbox.com for locations. — NIKKI EKSTEIN
F R O M TO P : P H I L I P F R I E D M A N ( 8 ) ; B OT TO M : C O U RT ESY O F G L E N L I V E T
SHISEIDO ISEIDO
Find something YOU WE REN' T looking FOR .
Š2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Le MÊridien, and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
HAPPY HOURS
Hitting The Roof
Before winter arrives, here’s one last cheer for the fabulous rooftop bars in our metros.
CLOCKWISE: High
Edge at High Ultra Lounge; Tease bar at Vivanta By Taj; a cocktail inception at High Ultra Lounge; AER overlooking the Mumbai skyline.
DELHI NCR Cost for two: `2,200 plus taxes Happy Hours: One plus one between 8pm – 12.30 am Cocktails: Gurgaon Politan, Healthy City, Bee’s Knees Must-try dishes: Crumb Fried with with country-style tarter sauce, and veg dim sum phak Contact: 91-124/667-1234 Cool Quotient: Theme nights every day of the week— Monday’s High Hospitality Nights, Tuesday’s White Collar Nights, Wednesday’s Sufi Nights, Thursday’s Geek IT Nights, Friday’s Ladies’ Nights, and a Booze Cruise buffet on Saturdays. vivantabytaj.com
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AER BAR & LOUNGE, ASILO FOUR SEASONS MUMBAI MUMBAI Cost for two: `2,500 plus taxes MUMBAI Cost for two: `5,000 approx Happy Hours: Sunset Happy Hour menu offers guests two Champagnes for price of one, 5.30 pm – 8pm Cocktails: Mumbai Masala (whisky, rum, ginger, apple, spiced tea), Professor (JW Platinum Label infused with prune, Martini Rosso infused juniper berry) Must-try dishes: Spicy Chicken 65 on a stick, Cajun & Monterey Contact: 91-22/2481-8444 Cool Quotient: A nightlife hotspot with regular ‘mixology’ and jugalbandhi nights. fourseasons.com
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Happy Hours: Golden Hours between 5.30 pm – 8 pm, special prices on Champagne; private section includes private bar and butler service. Cocktails: Asilo Sunrise, Mango Mia (martini), Grey Goose Golden Delight Must-try dishes: Chilean Seabass, Australian Crispy Pork Belly, and Spicy Tamarind Tiger Prawns Contact: 91-22/6162-8031 Cool Quotient: Sunday brunches comprise classic pancakes, waffles, antipasto platters, and a saxophonist & DJ playing into the night. palladiumhotel.in
HIGH ULTRA LOUNGE
BENGALURU Cost for two: `2,600 plus taxes Happy Hours: 12.30 pm - 3.30 pm Cocktails: Unfinished Business, Walk The Talk Must-try dishes: Grilled Cottage Cheese with Tomato Compote, Beef with Spicy Sesame Contact: 91-80/4567-4567 Cool Quotient: Tallest point in southern India at 421 feet with a spectacular view of the city. Fabulous place to catch the sunset over cocktails, and be a part of special events such as Pink in The City, Full Moon Party, HIGHloween among others through the year. highultralounge.com
C LO C K W I S E : C O U RT ESY O F H I G H U LT R A LO U N G E ; C O U RT ESY O F V I VA N TA BY TA J ; C O U RT ESY O F H I G H U LT R A LO U N G E ; C O U RT ESY O F FO U R S E AS O N S M U M BA I
TEASE, VIVANTA BY TAJ GURGAON
ON RADAR THIS MONTH | DUBAI | AL FAHIDI
H E M I S /A L A M Y
The mere mention of Dubai tends to merit images of steely high rises and speedy highways, of malls and markets to shop. But it’s a quaint corner of the Bastakiya Quarter that you must make your way to, to see Dubai’s old soul. Al Fahidi roundabout is at the heart of this historical neighbourhood and it is anything but forgotten, thanks to a new surge of art galleries and coffee houses that keep its culture alive and buzzing. Off one of its streets lies XVA Gallery, which in itself is one of my favourite reasons to visit. The unassuming entrance to the courtyard café barely reveals its role as an art gallery for modern art installations. If you find it hard to leave, check in to the hotel for the night amidst sounds of the neighbouring mosque and souks. Sweet dreams are made of these. —ADITI DATTA.
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FREQUENT TRAVELLER
Andamans for the Soul BORN IN DELHI, BROUGHT UP IN PUDUCHERRY, STUDIED IN THE USA... DILIP KAPUR HAS ALWAYS BEEN ON THE MOVE. WHILE HE LOVES TO TOUR THE WORLD, A DESTINATION HE KEEPS GOING BACK TO IS THE ANDAMANS.
Something I bring back every time I believe in collecting memories. While I see a lot of people take back shells, I’d rather leave them where they belong—on the beaches. An unforgettable experience To go out and catch a lobster or fish and then, to cook it right there. Heaven! A restaurant I go to for pleasure I like to visit Barefoot for a drink and a little sophistication. My favourite hotel Barefoot at Beach no. 7 is definitely the best place to stay. It is also a great place for setting up meetings. A spot I keep going back to Beach no 7 has so much to offer—I can dive and snorkel in the crystal clear waters, or simply sit back and relax with a book.
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FROM TOP: A soulful
view of the Andamans; Dilip Kapur, president, Hidesign; stay at Barefoot; enjoy a sumptuous meal featuring fresh lobsters; take a walk through the rainforest of Andamans.
F R O M TO P : S H U T T E R STO C K ; C O U RT ESY O F D I L I P K A P U R ; C O U RT ESY O F BA R E FO OT ; S H U T T E R STO C K ( 2 )
My first time here It was during the monsoons of 1992 and I was probably the only tourist on the beach. Everything about the island was very romantic. Since then, I’ve been to Andamans about nine times. The unbelievable privacy of the island, the most beautiful rainforest, and its pristine beaches make it a fabulous destination. The best part is that Andamans is still beautiful, despite being over run by package tourism. I would advise one to ideally travel during off season.
TRAVEL DIARY
Taste Of Nature
FROM ABOVE: A beautiful white sand beach in Tasmania; a church in Florence; the local Salamanca Market in Tasmania. RIGHT: Maria Goretti, author of From My Kitchen to Yours.
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I LOVE VISITING PLACES that are rooted in culture. And of course, I love exploring local cuisines. I am an incurable traveller and wanderlust often takes me on vacations with my girlfriends. Whitehaven Beach in Tasmania has been one of my most gorgeous discoveries recently. The 7-kilometre stretch, near Whitsunday Island, can be reached by boat from the mainland port of Airlie Beach. I could see hundreds of tiny black dots, stingrays, darting around under the clear bluish green water. I spent half a day swimming in a secluded section of the sea. And then, magic happened. I saw a beautiful, green sea turtle, and in a surreal moment, I reached out and touched it. It was my most beautiful takeaway from Oz. Of course, besides all the delicious Australian food—I loved the street food spuds at the local Salamanca Market in Tasmania, and picked up indigenous Australian trinkets. The perfect place to gorge on yummy pink snapper with diamond clams was at Chiswick, in Sydney, and I absolutely loved dining at Quay near the Opera House—the raw smoked Wagyu at Chef Peter Gilmore’s restaurant is an absolutely magical rendition. Brilliant wine pairings made every dining experience here simply unforgettable. Europe makes for beautiful memories throughout its length and breadth: from the buzzing beaches of Ibiza to the Gothic architecture, the old churches and artworks in Florence, the cobbled streets of Milan and Hungary, and the crumbling Colosseum in Rome. I always end up carrying fresh
herbs, cured ham, Parmesana, exotic chocolates, truffle oil, and peppers from here. In Murano, I tuck in the perfect seafood with cabernet. I actually learnt how to make the sauce using egg yolk and a little cream, cooking up the ingredients slowly, and that’s how I prepare it at home now. Murano actually taught me how to let seafood be the star of the dish by underplaying the calorie load. If God had to live on earth, it would have to be in South Africa. The country has a stunning landscape. I stayed there for three months a few years ago. Roaming around Cape Town, soaking up the raw natural beauty of Port Elizabeth, Johannesburg, whale watching, going on hot air balloon rides, tucking in African food are some of my most precious memories from the country. I remember shopping for fresh, local produce and cooking my own meals in my apartment. But it was a climb up and down Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania that was mad, yet fun. In eight days I experienced five different types of climate and walked for seven hours a day. Camping in a tiny tent, and being given a small bowl of water to clean myself with, drinking hot broth for sheer sustenance, and roasting food on the bonfire, trekking from midnight onwards to reach the peak by 6 am and watching the sun’s rays splinter the skies at -20 degrees was absolutely breathtaking. Being back to basics in food was a humbling experience. Next on my list is climbing up Machu Picchu—the land of the Incas and the Peruvian cuisine.
S H U T T E R STO C K ( 3 )
A compulsive traveller, MARIA GORETTI has done it all—from honeymooning in Disney Orlando, to climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. Next on her bucket list is Machu Picchu. But, wherever she goes, she finds a bit of food to enthral her.
Contact us: Tourism Authority of Thailand, New Delhi Office: Tel: 91-11-46741111 | Email: tatdel@tat.or.th | www.facebook.com/TAT.newdelhi Tourism Authority of Thailand, Mumbai Office: Tel: 91-22-22042727 | Email: tatmumbai@tat.or.th | www.facebook.com/TAT.mumbai Facebook: www.facebook.com/TourismAuthorityofThailandIndia | Twitter: www.twitter.com/ThaiAmazesYou Website: www.tourismthailand.org
PROMOTION
There’s more to Munich than lederhosen and beer steins—the friendly Bavarian metropolis is a champion for travellers. This winter, shop in the hippest neighbourhoods of Munich; take a road trip to idyllic towns; and welcome the New Year in the city with beautiful snowclad Alps in the background.
FROM SWANKY STANDALONE store and
fashionable boutiques to beer gardens and palatepleasing restaurants and cafes, Munich gives you a sweet taste of all things fine. The experience is even more cheering during the winter season when the town is lit up with hundred lights and carollers make revellers sway. Stay in the city to welcome the New Year, and the shopper in you will take delight in sales that go up after the Christmas season. Amidst all the revelry, make time to take a day or two to visit surrounding towns.
WERNER BOEHM
Christmas Cheer in Munich
Christmas markets in Munich are an elaborate affair. Don’t miss the fun if you’re here during the holiday season.
C LO C K W I S E F R O M L E F T : LU K AS BA RT H ( 2 ) ; C O U RT ESY O F M U N I C H TO U R I S M
A SHOPPER’S MUNICH
If there’s one thing that the inhabitants of Munich love (other than beer of course), it’s their impressive shopping streets. From privately run stores in a charming quarter of the old town to metropolitan department stores; from former purveyors to the Bavarian court to international top labels and trendy newcomers— everything is a just short walk away. An obvious start to your shopping expedition in the city will be the heart of Munich, Marienplatz. This central square where the Town Hall is located has rows and rows of shops including Ludwig Beck, Munich’s high-end department store for fashion, beauty and lifestyle that traces its origins back to royal times. There is nothing that should stop you from visiting Dallmayr nearby, which is one of the leading delicatessen stores in Europe. Close to this neighbourhood is Alter Hof, which is famous for jewellery, watches, clothes, and souvenir shops. A must-try shopping area is the sophisticated Maximilianstrasse, where luxury labels such as Chanel, Hermes, and Gucci have found a home. From high-end brands to flagship stores, you will find everything glamourous on the streets of Residenzstrasse, Odeonsplatz, Brienner Strasse and Theatinerstrasse, where top couturiers and jewellers present their latest creations.
Known for its beautiful architecture, Fünf Höfe, has delightful passages, arcades and courtyards with luxury stores, cafés, bars and restaurants. Make a stop at the Kunsthalle of the Hypo Bank Cultural Foundation, which is famous for its exhibitions. Turning back to Marienplatz, head down to Kaufinger Strasse and Neuhauser Strasse. A department store that boasts a historic facade is Oberpollinger—here you can experience an elegant sales area with ladies’ fashion, accessories, beauty, perfumes, home and living,
HOLIDAY CHEER When Santa comes to town, it transforms into a magical land with springing Christmas markets and revellers humming Christmas carols. The Munich Christmas Market around Marienplatz square is a sight to behold. A massive Christmas tree twinkling with lights welcomes visitors while the historic Town Hall beguiles them with live music every evening. Add to that a sprinkle of mythical characters, angels, and Nikolaus that make their appearance here, and you’ve got a merry Christmas with all its trimmings. This year, the revelry will start on November 27 and will go on till Christmas Eve, December 24.
USEFUL INFORMATION Shops in Munich are generally closed on Sundays (except for bakeries). Even on December 25, 26, and January 1, the shops will remain shut. Most likely, shops will close early on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve as well. Sales will start after the Christmas breaks towards the end of the year but the traditional time for the winter sales is January and early February. For more information about Munich, visit the Munich Tourist Office website (simply-munich.com).
SHOPPER’S STOP
Take a peek inside these travellers’ favourite boutiques and stores. 1. The flagship store of Roeckl (roeckl. com) has reopened with a new shop concept. It is one of the finest glove shops in Munich, with uncompromising commitment to quality and craft, and you will love its collection of accessories, scarves, and bags too. Maffeistrasse 1 2. One of Germany’s leading kitchen and dining stores, Kustermann (kustermann.de), is your spot to find everything that goes into making a home. Viktualienmarkt 8, Rindermarkt 3-4 3. With its great assortment of shops and restaurants, the Brienner Quartier (brienner-quartier.de) boasts the spirit of traditional manufactories and Munich’s characteristical flair. You must also visit the Luitpoldblock, located in the Brienner Quartier. Built 200 years ago, it was the first commercial building beyond the city walls, and is now a distinguished address for stylish offices, sophisticated shops as Missoni, ASPESI, Aesop, and the famous Cafe Luitpold with its delicious pastries. 4. Established back in the 1800s, Lodenfrey (lodenfrey.com) is known for its selection of Trachten and Loden. You will be surprised to find the latest designer fashion as well: Armani, Brioni, Salvatore Ferragamo and much more brand names you can find on six floors. In the children’s department, you will find everything from designer
FROM TOP: Map of the shopping streets; Lola Paltinger couture dirndl; Viktualienmarkt in Munich; Cafe Luitpold’s terrace.
C LO C K W I S E F R O M TO P L E F T : C O U RT ESY O F M U N I C H TO U R I S M ( 2 ) ; C R E I T E R ; M A RT I N N I N K ;
toys and a roof top restaurant. Another amazing shopping area with passages and boutiques branches out from Marienplatz to Sendlinger Strasse and its side street Hackenstrasse. The Viktualienmarkt, only a few steps from Marienplatz, is one of Germany’s most picturesque open-air markets and is considered by many locals to be the beating heart of culinary Munich. Close to the old town, around Gärtnerpatz, shop ateliers, trendy boutiques and concept stores, with cafés and bars complete your shopping experience.
fashion to traditional Bavarian clothing. Maffeistrasse 7 5. Traditional dirndls take a trendy turn when designed by Lola Paltinger (lolapaltinger.de). Visit her showroom and get a stylish limited-edition outfit that will stand out in the crowd. Müllerstrasse 7
DAY TRIPS
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A scenic trip to lakes, hills, castles, and medieval towns and ski resorts is a part of the Munich experience. ▪ A Fairy Tale Romance The city of Füssen is the southernmost end and climax of the famous German Romantic Road and is an internationally renowned holiday resort at the Bavarian Alpine foothills. Things to see: Neuschwanstein Castle, Hohenschwangau Castle, Linderhof Castle, UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site Wieskirche, Füssen Heritage Museum. ▪ Gem of a Trip For fans of crystals and precious jewellery, the Swarovski Kristallwelten (Swarovski Crystal Worlds) in Austria becomes a memorable experience. What to do: Visit the Chambers of Wonder and the Timeless area and buy an exquisite piece of Swarovski jewellery. ▪ A Small Cultural Town Salzburg is the home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart; filming location of ‘The Sound of Music’; and Oberndorf (20 kms) near Salzburg is the birthplace of the Christmas carol ‘Silent Night, Holy Night’. What’s more? It hosts more than 4,000 cultural events in a year. Places of interest: Hohensalzburg Fortress, Mozart’s birthplace, Mirabell Palace, prince-archbishops’ buildings and traditional coffee houses. ▪ Trek to the Top of Germany At 2,962-metre, Germany’s highest peak Zugspitze offers the breathtaking view of mountains of four countries (Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy). Experience: It offers a range of activities including tobogganing on natural snow in summer and winter seasons.
▪ Picture Perfect For a relaxing outing, head to Lake Chiemsee, which is major draw for travellers because of its Alpine scenery. Must visit: The Herrenchiemsee Palace on Herreninsel Island in Lake Chiemsee was once the palace of King Ludwig II. ▪ Royal Splendour in Munich History buffs would already know that the Munich Residenz is the largest residential palace in Germany and it served as the seat of the Bavarian rulers for 400 years. Explore: The royal home, its art collections and treasures collected for centuries including jewels, goldsmith’s work, enamels, crystal objects, and ivories. Also see: The Nymphenburg Palace with its huge park was the summer residence of the Bavarian rulers. Here you must visit the birthplace of King Ludwig II.
FROM TOP: Neuschwanstein Castle; Swarovski Kristallwelten; Nymphenburg Palace in Munich.
THE DISH
Talk of Thai Town
Sydney’s Southeast Asian population has brought with it a boom in authentic—and seriously spicy—cooking. THAI RESTAURANTS HAVE BEEN a part of Sydney’s culinary landscape for decades, most of them serving the same standard-issue curries and overly sweetened pad thai. But in the past 15 years, an upswing in immigration has swelled the city’s Thai-born population, which is now the second-largest outside Thailand (LA ranks first). A cluster of groceries and restaurants on Campbell and Pitt Streets, near Central Station, is even referred to as Thai Town. As a result, there’s been a surge in exciting Thai cooking, with a spectrum of regional fl avours and styles of service represented—from no-frills canteens to elegant, high-end dining rooms.
SPICE I AM | The chefs at this modest
kitchen have stripped away the tamer refinements of modern Thai, focusing on bold dishes like ka nom jeen nam ya (fermented rice noodles in fish curry). spiceiam.com; entrées US$9–US$20.
BOON CAFÉ | Among the newest
additions to Thai Town, Boon combines a coffee-shop aesthetic with Thai-fusion sandwiches at lunch and a dinner menu of Isaan delicacies including noodles studded with daring ingredients like chicken feet and fermented pork. booncafe.com; entrées US$9-US$15.
HOUSE | Run by the owners of Spice I Am, House specialises in the robust palette of north-east Thailand’s Isaan region. Try the nua daed deaw, crispy sun-dried beef strips, and the som tum lao, a deliciously pungent papaya salad with fish sauce and shrimp paste. spiceiam.com/housesurry-hills; entrées US$9–US$14.
LONGRAIN | This upscale spot has been a Sydney institution since opening 16 years ago, when it introduced the city to modern Thai cooking. In specialties like the tapioca-crusted whole fi sh and caramelised pork hock, the big fl avours of home-style Thai cooking are refined by sophisticated culinary techniques. longrain.com; entrées US$11–US$26. DO DEE PAIDENG | On the southern
edge of Chinatown, this tom yum shop is a hot destination in every sense of the word. Big bowls of soup, dense with satisfyingly chewy rice noodles, are rated on a spice scale of 1 to 7 (don’t overestimate yourself: anything above 3 may render your taste buds useless for days). dodeepaideng.com.au; entrées US$4–US$12. — MICHAEL SNYDER
POP-UP ALERT | In January, Noma chef René Redzepi is moving his revered Copenhagen restaurant and staff to Sydney’s waterfront Barangaroo neighborhood for 10 weeks. As with last year’s Tokyo stint, they’ll use local ingredients, but with an unmistakable Noma spin. Sign up at noma.dk/australia to receive reservation updates. — B.P.K.
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ST E V E B R OW N
Lamb massaman curry at Longrain.
T+L DEALS
ATLANTIS THE PALM DUBAI Experience the festival of lights in Dubai with the ‘Atlantis Two-Bedroom Family Suites’ package with the Dubai skyline or Arabian Sea as splendid backdrops to your in-room sunsets. `1,49,000 for a Two-Bedroom Regal Club Suite per night; till November 30. Book the Two Bedroom Family Suite for six people, plus an infant. Inclusive of breakfast; complimentary beverages and canapés between 6 pm - 8 pm plus priority restaurant reservations. Two ShuiQi Spa treatments for the price of one (back, neck and shoulder massage), with complimentary use of steam, sauna and jet pool facilities; one complimentary 30-minute personal training session per stay. Complimentary return airport transfers. Save 25% atlantisthepalm.com
Arabian Savings
Let the magic of Dubai cast a spell on your pockets this season. Here is a cue to some great packages from the city.
Make most of the splendid views afforded by Atlantis The Palm, Dubai.
SUPER SAVER The Oberoi, Dubai
The ‘Magnificent Dubai’ deal offers complimentary Internet and late checkout till 6 pm. `19,000 per room per night two people; Stay in a Deluxe City View Room minimum stay of two nights. with complimentary upgrade to Luxury Pool View Room. Daily complimentary breakfast; 20 per cent savings on food and beverages. 20 per cent savings on spa therapies. Free transfers to the Dubai Mall. Save 54% oberoihotels.com
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BED
JUMEIRAH ZABEEL SARAY ‘Moments by Jumeirah Zabeel Saray’ makes your holiday memorable at its exclusive location on the West Crescent of the Palm Jumeirah. The hotel offers exclusive access to the private beach, two complimentary tickets to the Wild Wadi Waterpark, and high speed internet. Book any room or suite to avail the package; `44,195 upwards per night; till December 20. Daily complimentary breakfast and a choice of either lunch or dinner at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray; one complimentary dinner at Burj Al Arab and Junsui restaurant. Complimentary use of Talise Ottoman Spa and Talise Fitness facilities. Complimentary shuttle service to and from Wild Wadi Waterpark, Madinat Jumeirah and selected shopping malls in Dubai. Save 20% jumeirah.com
FOOD
SPA
TRANSFER
C O U R T E S Y O F AT L A N T I S T H E PA L M , D U B A I ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E O B E R O I , D U B A I
AVARI DUBAI The ‘Holiday Getaway Package’ allows you to enjoy the grandeur of Dubai while giving you a relaxing setting to unwind after a hectic day. `26,600 for six nights for two people; through the year. Accommodation in the Avari World Traveller Room. Welcome drinks on arrival; complimentary buffet breakfasts. Complimentary transfers to major shopping centres in Dubai, as well as return transfers from airport. Save 30% avari.com
south africa | bordeaux | thailand | + more
INSIDER ACCESS
Eat Like An Expat Over the decades, people from around the world have made India their home. Expats in Delhi, Mumbai, Goa, Chennai, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad give their stamp of authenticity to this guide featuring cafes and restaurants they frequent and find comforting. BY ANWESHA SANYAL
C O U R T E S Y O F S A N J AY R A M A C H A N D R A N F O R O L I V E B E A C H
A fine spread at Olive Beach in Bengaluru.
Delhi NCR THE COAST CAFE @ OGAAN
SSONGCHEE
Ogaan, the multi-designer boutique at Hauz Khas Village has quite a popular café on the first floor. Say tacos, salads, grills, and mocktails in a colonial setting of grey, white, yellow, and indigo. Expect a warm atmosphere and music here. `1,500 for two; H2, second floor, HKV; 91-11/4160-1717
If you haven’t already introduced yourself to Korean cuisine, the dish bingsoo at Ssongchee will be a nice start. The menu is small, but you can sit for hours on a Dutch coffee, or a ‘slow juice’. `500 for two; M60, Mezzanine Floor, M Block Market, Greater Kailash 2; 91/997-101-4608
LA BODEGA
At this perfect meeting spot for art enthusiasts, food is merely an excuse. Enjoy good music and art that transcends genres—experimental, techno, Indie, percussion, and live music over American finger-food and cocktails. `1,500 for two; theartbar.in
THE ART BAR
The city was pretty parched of authentic Mexican cuisine until La Bodega made its entry in Khan Market. The buff meat stuffed tacos are the best on the block, and vegetarians too have a reason to rejoice—their mushroom ragu with cheese and Mexican style qinuoa salad score high on popularity. `1,500 for two; 29B, first floor, Middle Lane, Khan Market; 91-11/4310-5777
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PERCH WINE & COFFEE BAR
For a small wine and coffee bar, the 37 varieties of wine and a number of single-origin coffees (including
CLOCKWISE: Outdoor seating at La Bodega; the interiors at Ivy & Bean Cafe; sopa bean soup at La Bodega.
Indonesian and Ethiopian) give this joint a good reputation in the busy locale of Khan Market. Add to that a dash of pork scotch eggs, a confit duck leg, and a vegetable mascarpone cheesecake and you’re rounded for the evening. `2,000 for two; 71, First Floor, Khan Market; 91/837-397-6637 IVY & BEAN CAFÉ
The Khel Gaon entry to Shahpurjat takes you to one of the quaintest spots in the city—a café with delicate white wooden furniture and a bookshelf with goodreads. Ivy & Bean creates the perfect ambiance for long conversations over coffee and pancakes. It’ll even make for a perfect think-pad for you. `1,000 for two; 119, Sishan House, Shahpur Jat; 91-11/4109-0119
CLOCK W ISE: COURT ESY OF L A BODEGA ; COURT ESY OF I V Y & BE AN CAFE; COURT ESY OF L A BODEGA
INSIDER ACCESS
Bengaluru
OLIVE BEACH
SKYYE
For a quick Mediterranean break, you need to head only as far as Olive Beach on Wood Street. The Sunday brunch menu in this bungalow-turnedrestaurant is especially tempting for its fresh salads and cold cuts. `1,800 for two plus taxes; olivebarandkitchen.com
The seafood menu on the 16th floor of UB city tower adds character to the fabulous view that Skyye offers on a typical windy evening in Bengaluru. Irish chicken and barbecued cottage cheese goes well with a chilled bottle of beer. `2,500 for two plus taxes; skyye.in
WINDMILLS CRAFTSWORKS
TOSCANO RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
Well-done interiors, finely brewed craft beer, jazz music, and a varied selection of books on art, design, architecture, and music—this is usually how a city-dweller unwinds on a weekend evening in Bengaluru’s Windmills Craftsworks. Burgers, salads, pastas on the menu are good accompaniments. `2,500 for two plus taxes; windmillscraftworks.com
The vibrant Toscano infuses old and new world Italian cuisine—from gourmet pizzas to elaborate mains on the menu and an impressive wine list. Try the goat cheese salad, chicken de Toscano, and the chocolate kalhua mousse. `1,500 for two plus taxes; toscano.co.in
COURTESY OF OLIVE BE ACH (2)
THE GLASS HOUSE
If intimate dinners entice you, The Glass House is perfect for throwing your friends and family a warm invite for a European-style dinner. The deli, bar, lounge and fine diner throws spotlight on some fine food presentation skills. `1,500 for two plus taxes; rspg f.com
THE WAREHOUSE
The Warehouse is straight out of a European nightclub. Themed as per its name, the barn-like interiors and curated menu sync well with the international music, a young crowd, the open-air seating arrangement, basketball and volleyball areas courts, and an underground space with electronic and rock music playing. `1,500 for two plus taxes; kpgroups.in
FROM TOP: Olive Beach at dusk; groovy cocktails at the restaurant.
CITY BAR
The resto bar with an all day menu adopts the ‘no wall’ design that allows the fresh Bengaluru air to flood the space. Book sections for a private party or hop on to a stool at the bar. `1,800 for two plus taxes; ubcitybangalore.in
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Hyderabad THE PIRATE BREW
Onboard a pirate ship themed restobar, savour a Ballantine 12 years with an extensive Chinese menu. In the evenings, the lights lining the ship and the bar light up, while the DJ plays tracks to suite the ambiance. `1,300 for two plus taxes; 5th floor, Empire Square Building, Road 36, Jubilee Hills, 91-40/3316-5307 CONCU
You can get the best out of a dessert menu when it’s small but done up well. When at Concu, order a smoothie, and pack a variety of desserts for home. The pink cashew praline cheesecake
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and raspberry macarons are popular. `600 for two; Plot No 479/B, Road Number 21, Jubilee Hills; 91/998-580-0031 PI
To start your Sunday with a delectable brunch head to the star restaurant at Avasa Hotel. Live counters for fish and meat as well the good ol’ dosas are inviting. Combine the fare with a variety of beverages for a wholesome deal. `2,000 for two plus taxes; hotelavasa.com
CLOCKWISE: The vibrant Pi restaurant at Hotel Avasa; Ninety-Six before the crowd moves in; prawn wrapped in bacon at the restaurant.
THE HIGHLANDS WHISKEY CLUB
From the Florentine and paprika mushrooms, egg tempura, to a simple thin crust pizza, the classy bar cum restaurant has nailed its continental flavours for those who love a nice scotch with their meal. `1,600 for two plus taxes; Second Floor, Aryan’s, Road No 92, Film Nagar; 91-40/3316-5073
KAFICKO
If you are near Banjara Hills and on the lookout for a quick grub, head to Kaficko for some sushi and teppanyaki. End with their delicious buttermilk waffles. `1,300 for two plus taxes; 8-2-686/d, Above Good Earth store, Banjara Hills Road 12; 91-709/587-6222.
C L O C K W I S E : C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L AVA S A ; COURTESY OF TRIDENT HOTELS (2)
NINETY SIX
One of the newest entrants in the city is nestled in Trident Hyderabad and already, the diner is brimming with people. Cocktail lovers are in for a treat as the bartender whips up a reputable green apple and wasabi martini. `2,500 for two plus taxes; tridenthotels.com
C L O C K W I S E : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E TA B L E ; C O U R T E S Y O F E L L I P S I S ; C O U R T E S Y O F M AT S YA F R E E S T Y L E K I T C H E N
Mumbai/Goa
CLOCKWISE: The refined interiors at The Table; the art collection at the classy diner, Ellipsis; a custom-made dish at Matsya Freestyle Kitchen.
Mumbai ELLIPSIS
A modern American diner in Colaba with small plate servings, prints its menus daily, after bringing the day’s fresh produce from the market. They have a variety of eggs on offer—from the simple grilled bacon (slab bacon, sunny-side eggs, tomato confit, sriracha aioli) or a shrimp benny (poached eggs, avocado salsa, hollandaise). `2,500 for two; ellipsisrestaurant.in YOGA HOUSE
A hidden gem in the bustling neighbourhood of Sherley Rajan Road, the Yoga House is nice place to unwind over yoge sessions but you needn’t engage in one if you’re here for the grub. The healthy menu
comprises a ‘Yogi’s Breakfast’, an ‘I am Fighting’ salad, and an ‘I am English’ sandwich among others. `1,200 for two; Nargis Villa, Carter Road, Bandra West; 91-22/6554-5001 THE TABLE
A saffron kahwa green tea at The Table is enough to keep you coming back for more. Add to that the Swiss chard ravioli, lemon quinoa, gougere cheese puffs, or salmon tarter and a chocolate symphony to end the meal. `4,000 for two; thetable.in
Goa MATSYA FREESTYLE KITCHEN
If you want a touch of Michelin-starred Noma on your platter in Goa, head to Israeli chef Gome Galily’s venture in the city. At the Samata Holistic Retreat
Center in Pernem, there is no menu to choose from. Instead, guests discuss their preference with the master chef, who has worked at Noma previously, and wait patiently for a four-course meal to arrive. The red snappers, tuna, and caviar never disappoint. `3,000 for two; samatagoa.com MAGIC VIEW
The best Italian pizzas in Goa, which some say might even give Italy a run for theirs, is a wood fried, thin and crispy piece of wonder that keeps the restaurants booked out during peak season. Also try their fruit salads. `1,500 for two; Patnem Beach, Canacona; 91/989-906-1528 LE ROI ARTHUR, VERLA CANCA
Somewhere between Mapusa and Anjuna beaches lies a boutique property and restaurant run by owners Melyssa and Romain, in a Frenchstyle open house. Prepare yourself to be bowled over by a delicious homecooked continental meal. `8,000 for two; leroiarthurgoa.com
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CLOCKWISE: The pretty signboard at L’Amandier; the quaint garden space at Amethyst; fruit desserts at the restaurant are a nice way to finish off a sumptuous meal.
BELLA CIAO
The beachside café at Kottivakam is set in a modern bungalow. Pizzas and bruschetta become conversation starters at the stone tables for the cool crowd hanging out during the weekend. `1,100 for two; bellaciao.in
Dupab (spicy pork with rice) and soju combination that keep guests coming back for more of their authentic offerings. `3,500 for two; 530, TTK Road, Above More Supermarket, Alwarpet WILD GARDEN CAFÉ AT AMETHYST
If you’re looking at buying some Indian designs for clothing and home décor, the Amethyst boutique store houses costume jewellery, and quirky décor pieces. What’s also interesting is the garden café with an adjacent verandah, where you can sit for hours with a cuppa and read a book. `1,500 for two; amethystchennai.com WINTER PALACE
INSEOUL
While Korean cuisine in Chennai is always a winner, there’s something to be said about InSeoul’s Jeyuk
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The Russian restaurant leaves nothing to imagination. The cured salted fish, pelmeni, borsch, along with signature cocktails at the Russian Centre of Arts
and Culture is a must visit. `1,100 for two; winterpalace.in ZARA
Live music, Wednesday Ladies’ Nights, Retro Thursdays, or weekend party nights, Zara The Tapas Bar & Restaurant has something for everyone. Adjacent is the Ole Bar that has a more intimate setting for those who wish for a little more privacy. `1,600 for two; zaratapasbar.in L’AMANDIER
An appetising buffet lunch on a Sunday afternoon at L’Amandier is an instant mood enhancer. Or a nice curated European dinner menu for that matter with a fabulous veggie salads, braised prawns, Shepherd’s Pie, and a chocolate and almond mud pie. `1,000 for two; 57, 2nd Main Road, RA Puram
C L O C K W I S E : C O U R T E S Y O F L’A M A N D I E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M E T H Y S T ( 2 )
CHAMIERS
An arty concept store that brings together the old world charm of erstwhile Madras, coupled with contemporary design and a diverse clientele. Look for exclusive coffee blends, fresh juices, an all-day breakfast menu and a fabulous collection of pastries. `1,000 for two; chamiershop.com
RO O N ALDO TC RA ITPI O N
Wild Luxury
What is Soneva Kiri if not for the happiness of little fantastical elements bunged into a luxury resort, finds ANAND KAPOOR
I gazed warily at the clouds that were swirling angrily in the distance. The rising funnel of dark storm clouds laden with torrential monsoon rains threatened to wash out the trip. Whilst the rest of the passengers talked or slept, oblivious in their deep leather chairs, a fellow passenger nervously got out of his seat to examine the foreboding scene in the distance. The pilot dexterously chartered a route avoiding the brooding clouds and directed the plane towards blue open skies mirroring the azure seas that were dotted with a patchwork of islands—a view that held a promise of things to come. After an hour and a half we began to descend into an uninhibited jungle with a short runway that dropped into the turquoise blue sea lapped the shoreline. On disembarking, the salty sweet air was a sharp contrast to the sweat laden air of the airport where frantic passengers tried to get through security with packages and cases of various sizes. As we skipped across the short stretch of crystalline water on a speed boat, the jetty on the
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neighbouring island became visible with what looked like a line of pillars in multi-coloured hues. As we got closer, the pillars turned into human forms and a chain of eight people stood like sentinels awaiting our arrival. We had arrived at what is possibly one of Asia’s best kept secrets—Soneva Kiri. On arrival we were greeted warmly like old friends and then, barefoot, we were ceremoniously guided to our home for the three days in paradise. Our villa was much more than a place to rest—think Swiss Family Robinson mixed with every conceivable luxury. The villas are made
C O U R T E S Y O F S O N E VA K I R I
THROUGH THE SMALL windows of the private jet
O N L O C AT I O N
from natural materials and the bathroom was open sided with a covered canopy that swayed carefree in the light island breeze. The tree house-like second floor was reached by a winding bamboo staircase that opened up to a magnificent panorama of the bay. As the evening set in and island time kicked in the night cloaked the skies. As if out of nowhere those dark clouds that I had witnessed from the plane burst and made the canvas canopy that formed the roof of the villas shudder beneath the fighting titans in the sky. Lightning bolts flashed against the sea and thunder, louder than any orchestra, rumbled against the background score of the thick forest that surrounded our villa. As we awoke the next day, we were greeted by a wishful scene. The bay that was visible from our villa lay undisturbed and tranquil from nature’s magnificent and disruptive performance the night before and the azure gradients enticed us down. Instead of walking down to the beach that lay at the foot of our villa, we decided to explore the main beach via a short ride on the private golf carts that are stationed outside each villa for guests to use. At the main beach, we were greeted by a sight that was even more majestic than the view from our villa. Soft crystal waves caressed the shoreline and the unforgettable island perfume of sea and
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flora permeated the air. We were on our own private deserted beach with a small army of man Fridays at our disposal. Whilst our souls were full with the beauty and freedom that this island offered us, our bodies required something a little more. The island certainly delivered on its promise of natural organic produce. The resort has several restaurants and experiences that are on rotation for ‘residents’ to experience. These include a traditional Thai restaurant tucked into the mangrove swamps that feels more Floridian in its location than Thai but adds to the unique ambience of the dinner; a pod dining experience that lifts you into the rainforest canopy by a winch where you are served by a waiter on a zip line reminiscent of a Da Vinci drawing brought to life and a Roald Dahlesque ice cream and chocolate room where the inner child can be unleashed and thrilled by the sheer selection available. Island time has a way of creeping up on you weaving days into hours. Three relaxing and pampered days later it was time to depart this rare undiscovered jewel. As we bid farewell to the sentinels at the pier we were soon back on the plane. The memory of the island and the immersion into the beauty and music of nature lingered in our minds and left a warm glow of contentment.
Soneva Kiri in Thailand has villas overlooking the azure sea, and houses several restaurants offering unforgettable dining experiences.
TA S T I N G N O T E S
Brave New World
In the post-apartheid era, South Africa’s Swartland wine region was overlooked for more fashionable areas like Stellenbosch. Now that’s changed, thanks to a group of maverick winemakers. BY JANE BROUGHTON PHOTOGRAPHS BY SARAH NANKIN IT’S BEING CALLED the Swartland Revolution.
In an area of fertile plains and rolling hills an hour north of Cape Town, pioneering viticulturalists are producing some of South Africa’s most sought-after wines. Their secret ingredient? Grapes from decades-old vines abandoned in the post-apartheid era—when farmers in more developed wine-making regions, like Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, tore out old plants and replaced them with popular varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Untrellised vines at Sadie Family Wines.
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Left to fend for themselves in the Swartland’s often inhospitable climate, these scruffy, untrellised varietals— which include lesser-known grapes like Palomino, Semillon Gris, Cinsaut, and Tinta Barocca—are yielding wines industry insiders describe as exciting, experimental, and region-specific. It’s worth visiting the Swartland to witness the winemakers’ unconventional, purist methods firsthand—and to experience their uniquely flavourful wines at the source.
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines
When winemakers Chris and Andrea Mullineux (from Johannesburg and San Francisco, respectively) got married in 2007, they decided to set up their fledgling brand, Mullineux Wines, in the town of RiebeekKasteel. “When we first came, there were only a handful of wineries; today there are 35 or more,” Chris said. Like many of the region’s pioneers, they started small, doing everything themselves. From the outset, preserving old vines was a priority. “To stop farmers from ripping out old vineyards, we pay them rent and farm the land ourselves,” he explained. That strategy has paid off. In 2013, the estate was renamed Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines after a major investment by India-based businessman Analjit Singh. Then, last year, Andrea and Chris moved to Roundstone, an idyllic farm with African Nguni cows grazing in lush meadowlands, where the rocky soil produces deep reds and subtly textured whites. Their impressive portfolio now includes soil-specific Syrahs, Chenin Blancs, and a prized Semillon Gris made from 65-year-old vines. Tastings currently on Fridays only (a full-time tasting centre is set to open in 2016); mlfwines.com.
FROM TOP: Eben Sadie in the cellar of Sadie Family Wines; Chris and Andrea Mullineux of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines.
Sadie Family Wines
Like most wine producers in the Swartland, Eben Sadie likes a challenge. After nearly two decades working at vineyards around the world, he decided to settle in the region 15 years ago because of its tough growing conditions—namely, very dry summers, winters with torrential rain, and rock-strewn soil. “The vine is a survivor,” he said. “The best grapes have to work hard to survive, and develop character.” His winery reflects this hardline philosophy. Hidden away on a road that winds deep into the undulating landscape, the white farm building is spare, even monastic. Here, Sadie spent his first 10 years developing two wines he calls ‘regional signatures’: Columella (a Syrah-based red blend) and Palladius (incorporating 11 white grapes including Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc). Between them, they represent every varietal grown in the region and have helped put it in the global spotlight. His current obsession is his Old Vine Series. Each of these eight wines derives from a single vineyard, some of which are more than 100 years old. Intense and singular in flavour, they are collector’s items in the making. Ever self-effacing, Sadie said: “It all starts in the vineyard, with the grapes.” Tastings by appointment; thesadiefamily.com.
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TA S T I N G N O T E S
FROM LEFT: Kalmoesfontein’s Adi Badenhorst; vines at Kalmoesfontein.
To an outsider, his approach to the science of wine making may seem haphazard (some is made in cement tanks, some in ancient oak vats). But the unshowy, balanced red and white blends that are his trademark have earned some of the highest accolades in the industry. Tastings by appointment; aabadenhorst.com.
Porseleinberg
AA Badenhorst Family Wines
The scene at Kalmoesfontein—the home of AA Badenhorst Wines since 2008—is a happy jumble of wine boxes, vintage sofas, and stuffed birds. But down in Adi Badenhorst’s restored cellar, all is calm. Dogs drowse on the stone floor, Bob Dylan croons from an old turntable, and church-pew seating and a well-used espresso machine create an informal ‘office’ between the barrels. Badenhorst grew up in wine country. His grandfather and father both worked in vineyards in the Constantia Valley, and Badenhorst made his first wine when he was still in school. When he found the farm at Kalmoesfontein, it was totally run down, with derelict buildings and bush vines running wild. Slowly, he resurrected the place, patching up the old winery and routing invasive species. The plants, Badenhorst pointed out, are worth caring for: “We’ve inherited vines that are between 50 and 70 years old. They have a humility and authenticity that I love.”
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Since Marc Kent, co-owner of the Boekenhoutskloof Winery in Franschhoek, took over a swath of neglected land on the Porseleinberg (Porcelain Mountain) in 2009, he and his viticulturist, Callie Louw, have restored 70 acres of neglected vineyard on its remote, windswept slopes. Amid this rugged, inhospitable terrain, Louw and his family live in perfect isolation, surrounded by 360-degree views of the Swartland plain below. The growing conditions here—very little topsoil, minimal rain, extreme temperatures, and high winds—have produced a tenacious Syrah with deep roots. Grapes from the oldest plants are used to make wine bearing the Porseleinberg label. Though his wine is prized by the industry, Louw described it as honest, stripped bare of any conceits or tricks. “It’s all about what the grapes are able to extract from the soil,” he said. “The thing I like most is farming. Wine making is merely an opportunity to see how well you have farmed.” In line with this back-to-basics approach, Louw makes each Porseleinberg wine label by hand, using an antique Heidelberg printing press he reconditioned himself. Tastings by appointment; porseleinberg.com.
PROMOTION MACAU M O M ENT S
The Hot Chase
From super cars to powered up motorbikes, the engines are roaring, tracks are secured and hot as the 62nd Macau Grand Prix is ready to set the Guia Circuit ablaze between November 19 and 22 this month. Catch the best motorcycle, WTCC, and Formula 3 racers bring their game to one of the oldest internationally known events in the world. The Guia Circuit promises fabulous spots for car enthusiasts to catch high power cars as they zip past. The most coveted ones are at the Lisboa Bend, which give you a clear view of a 90-degree turn, o�en the place for spectacular overtaking attempts. If you’ve missed the Lisboa, look out for
the Main Grand Stand and Reservoir Stand for the best views. A�er the game, though, there’s more that the city has to offer.
Bar Hopping
Celebrate post-race, by heading to a niche bar in the city. Have a drink with some fabulous buff wings on the side at McSorley’s Ale House in Venetian Macau, or choose one of the three interactive bars at the classy Vida Rica Bar in Mandarin Oriental that serves an extensive range of cocktails, champagne, and tapas. If you’re already staying at Galaxy Macau, book a table at the Macallan Whiskey Bar and Lounge where you will find over 400 whiskey labels to choose from, including some rare selections from Macallan’s own distillery in Aberdeen.
Star Studded
Regular travellers to the city can acquaint themselves with restaurants that have acquired Michelin stars this year—Rubochon au Dome, a French
contemporary restaurant with three stars is situated under the dome of the Grand Lisboa Hotel and is among the world’s top 50 restaurants. If you’re in the mood to experiment, grab Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine at The Eight whose lunch menu has 50 kinds of dim sums. Dig deeper to find Lu cuisine from the north of China, Chuan from Sichuan, and Tan cuisine with its aristocratic heritage at Zi Yat Heen.
Festive Fever
While you’re in Macau for the Prix holiday, you can club it with the other festivals around town. The 15th Macau City Fringe Festival (November 7 to 22) is a creative movement with artists displaying their work in support of modern art to reflect current life and human behaviour in Macau, while the annual Macau Food Festival (November 13 to 29) opposite the Macau Tower has delicious, Asian, European, Mainland Chinese cuisines in street stalls, booths, and tents open to foodies.
FIRST PERSON
Journey into the Unknown
For a compulsive planner like JANCEE DUNN , setting off on a trip with no idea where she was going was a nightmare scenario. Which is exactly why she decided to give it a try. ILLUSTRATION BY LYNDON HAYES I USED TO BE THE SORT OF FREEWHEELING traveller who rolled into a new country with no itinerary and nothing to guide me but a map. Then I hit my forties, my bravado ebbed, and I became a raging control freak. Now I spend weeks before a trip combing through TripAdvisor and Yelp so that, upon arrival, I know exactly what the shower-head in my hotel room will look like. I already know where I will dine and what I will order, because I’ve memorised the menus online. So when I came across a new bespoke service offered by a high-end travel agency, in which you have no idea what your destination is until you show up at the airport, my initial thought was: nightmare. ‘The Journey with No Destination’, as London-based Brown & Hudson calls it, is a unique trip crafted on the basis of a lengthy interview designed to evaluate your previous travel experiences,
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likes, dislikes, tolerance for risk, and desired mindset upon return. “Then,” its website reads, “you will leave everything up to us.” For a martinet like myself, the enterprise had the whiff of a sinister Stephen King short story, in which a small sign in a shop window reads “Trips of a lifetime—inquire within.” Or echoes of the David Fincher fi lm The Game, in which Michael Douglas’s character, a jaded financier in need of perspective, receives a kind of lifethreatening live-action game for his birthday. But the more I thought about it, the more I began to find the idea of
complete loss of control strangely appealing. As long as I didn’t end up entombed in a Mexican cemetery, as Douglas did, perhaps it would be liberating—rejuvenating, even—to set off on a journey into the unknown. And so, perversely, I decided to give it a go. My “evolving dialogue” with Brown & Hudson began over the phone, with an affable trip planner named Chris. For an hour and a half, he gently peppered me with questions, gradually building a profi le, the short version being: Former footloose Rolling Stone writer, now a frazzled mom, seeks tranquillity away from the noise of New York City. His queries grew more probing: When was I most content as a child? What were my passions? If I was captivated by Peruvian textiles, he explained, he could pair me with a pre-eminent expert in the field. There is nothing like an interview with a luxury travel consultant to reveal your embarrassing lack of passions. Would it count if I mentioned interests, like Greek surrealist poetry, that I had every intention of cultivating one day very, very soon? Instead, I found myself confessing that during my years as a music writer, I might have resembled a hard-partying rock chick, but my actual interests were always much gentler. Things like baking and walking in nature. “Maybe the birth of your daughter just brought all this out?” Chris offered gently. I asked him if he had a degree in psychology. “Geography, actually,” he said. “So in putting my psychologist hat on, I’m being a bit of a fraud.” I said, “I frequently feel that way. Aren’t we all frauds, really?” We shared a companionable silence. Then he hung up and got to work. THE IDEA FOR THE Journey with No Destination came about when the staff of Brown & Hudson was tossing around ideas one afternoon. Someone mentioned The Game; another brought up Alain de Botton’s The Art of Travel, in which the author explores
why we leave home, rather than where we choose to go. “We then talked about how experiential travel could morph into travel therapy,” says agency founder Philippe Brown. “It’s about being open to different things, being curious and playful.” A week after my interview, a book on the science of surprise arrived from Chris, along with travel dates and a thematic goal: contentment, summed up by the words of Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh. “Many people think excitement is happiness. But when you are excited you are not peaceful. True happiness is based on peace.”
the background of hulking icebergs on a slow drift from Greenland. Immediately after breakfast, a card directed me to the home of a local baker named Mona. In her warm, lived-in kitchen, we made partridgeberry tarts as her two cats drowsed on a chair. Mona then delivered another card directing me to the Lion’s Den, a hiking trail that wound around the remains of ancient settlements. After a brief rest, another missive summoned me to a ‘shed party’ at Phil’s, a cheerful, ramshackle venue where I caught a set by folk musician Aaron Cobb, whose traditional Newfoundland music focused,
The trip summoned the freedom OF MY YOUNGER DAYS, WHEN HALF the fun was not knowing WHAT WOULD happen next. With these words ringing in my ears, there was nothing to do but wait. In the days leading up to my departure, I speculated endlessly. It was a four-day trip, so presumably the flight from New York would be fairly short. What was reachable in a day, but still unusual? Cuba? Iceland? Sayulita? The day before takeoff, my only directive was to pack layers (OK, so Mexico was out). Approaching the airline counter a few hours before my departure, I was practically hyperventilating. I reached for my ticket, eyes wide, palms clammy, and asked the puzzled airline clerk where I was going. She squinted at the monitor. “St John’s,” she replied. “Ooh, the Virgin Islands!” I said. She shook her head. “Nope. Newfoundland.” As it turned out, my destination was Fogo Island, a remote fishing village off Newfoundland’s northern coast. “We couldn’t think of a place that contrasts more starkly to New York City,” read a card at my hotel, the Fogo Island Inn, a hyper-modern glass palace designed by Newfoundland native Todd Saunders. Well, I wanted remote, and remote is what I got. Outside my window, herds of caribou nibbled moss against
unsurprisingly, on fishing (“Let Me Fish off Cape St Mary’s,” “Saltwater Joys.”) Needless to say, quite a contrast to my glitzy Rolling Stone days. While I occasionally felt like a fourth-grader racing to soccer practice, every one of my nine ‘exercises’ steered me toward my goal of being calm in body and stimulated in mind. As Chris suspected, letting go summoned the freedom of my younger days, when half the fun was not knowing what would happen next. The service isn’t cheap (weeklong trips start at US$18,500 per person), but it did prompt me to reconsider the way I travel, and that’s something hard to put a price on. Rather than beginning with the question of where—a destination to be briskly crossed off my list—I’ve vowed to put more thought into why I want to go, and what I hope the trip will bring. And no more squeezing the life out of each excursion by planning every last detail in advance. Because when you’re experiencing a place for the first time, the last thing you want to feel is déjà vu. To create your own journey with no destination, go to brownandhudson.com.
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WELLNESS
Just A Long Breath Away finds out why Kerala still ranks the highest when it comes to authentic Ayurvedic experiences. And of course, the best places to have these! ADITI DATTA
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WE MAY HAVE EMBRACED swishly packaged papaya-
enhanced hair conditioners, Amazonian berries and herbal essential oils in only more recent times, but the long-standing belief in nature’s goodness to heal is no passing trend. With an increased skepticism to the efficacy of synthetic concoctions, Kerala Ayurveda has slowly re-emerged in the limelight, not despite being an ancient science but rather, because of it.Just as yoga has gained worldwide acceptance and adulation, its sister science of Ayurveda is gaining its own ground. All along, in spite of wavering faith in its power around the
C L O C K W I S E : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E L E E L A PA L A C E S , H O T E L S & PA L A C E S ; I N D I A P I C T U R E ; K A R A N TA K U L I A . O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E S Y O F K U M A R A K O M L A K E R E S O R T.
world, Kerala has remained quietly confident that when the world finished brainstorming and ran out of solutions, to Ayurveda (or literally, ‘the science of life’) it would return. So much so that Kerala Ayurveda has become accepted nomenclature, giving almost proprietary right and definitely due respect to this tiny state that nourished it. So what’s it all about, other than copious amounts of oil? Ayurveda is based on an understanding of physiology that is alternate to the view held in the Western world. As much as the body is made up of nerves and cells, muscles and bones, it is also composed of the universe’s five elements which are air, water, earth, fire, and the sky. An imbalance in these causes ‘doshas’ or faults, which primarily are of three types. Every physiology in human civilisation displays one or varying combinations of these three faults. Through herbal remedies, proper diet and specifically designed therapies, Ayurveda aims to correct whatever is bothering mind, body, soul or all of the above. And while there is still healthy debate on Ayurveda’s role in dire medical crises, incorporating the principles of good living are almost always going to make a positive difference to how you sleep, how you feel when you awaken and those hours in between. Thrown in against a lush backdrop of mangroves and backwaters, Kerala is quite sure you’ll leave better off than when you arrived. Many centres still practice strict or semi-strict protocol, while newer resorts lure guests with luxurious spa settings and throw in a good dose of Ayurvedic medicine once you’re in. Here’s our list to finding the best of them.
Krishnendu Ayur (Chingoli Ayurveda Hospital & Research Centre) LOCATION: Alleppey District, Central Coastal Region NEAREST AIRPORTS: Trivandrum (110 kms) or Kochi (115 kms) Before we lose you at hospital, we should say that this property that is according to the principles of its parent centre (in operation since 1908) isn’t about to be left behind in the last century. While the Ayurvedic hospital is more somber, the wellness centre has a slew of rooms and suites, all arranged around a central pool and each is equipped with every modern amenity you’d expect at a resort. Yes, that includes wi-fi. Using black gram flour, rice
FROM TOP: The yoga
pavilion at The Leela Kovalam; therapists on their way to an oil treatment at Somatheeram Ayurveda Resort, Trivandrum; mulled wine that’s a part of The Leela Kovalam’s spa cuisine. OPPOSITE: Kumarakom Lake Resort.
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For those who see the world as either beach or hill, this resort in the Malabar mountains is perfect if you prefer the latter. Surrounded by thick forest trees, three-tiered waterfalls, and local legends, Vythiri Village takes all measures to make the resort a lovely place to come back to when the day’s done. Although rooms are thoroughly modern, ancient Ayurvedic treatments remain untouched. With special focus on calming minds and nerves, their therapies are beneficial to people dealing with any form of inflammation, neurological conditions, vision disorders, skin disorders, insomnia or even lack of concentration.
Beach & Lake Ayurvedic Resort LOCATION: Pozhikarra Beach, off Karamana River NEAREST AIRPORT: Trivandrum (8 kms)
Somatheeram Ayurveda Resort LOCATION: Approximately
nine kilometres from Kovalam Beach NEAREST AIRPORT:
LOCATION: Kumarakom on the Vembanad Lake NEAREST AIRPORT: Kochi (80 kms)
Retaining characteristic architecture and design details inspired by local heritage, The Zuri Kumarakom pays as much attention to what’s around as it does to what’s on the inside. Located on the brink of the backwaters, houseboats rides and trips to the nearby island are half the cure anyone needs. In case one might mistake the hotel to be too luxurious to take its Ayurveda seriously, the hotel is quick to remind you that that Kerala Government has accredited it as an authentic Ayurveda centre with a coveted Green Leaf certification. With less emphasis on diet, the restaurant and bar will be happy to serve whatever your heart desires.
Trivandrum (21 kms) Situated atop a little green hillock with clear views of a 600 kilometre long beach, this resort will arrange beach towels and umbrellas to help you soak up some time at the coastline. Sometheeram takes its purifying diet and very long list of targeted therapies quite seriously, and also takes care of a happy mind with its specially arranged cultural evenings of local music and dance. Rooms come with everything from shoe shines to shaving kits.
Kumarakom Lake Resort
Vythiri Village
NEAREST AIRPORTS: Kochi (70 kms)
LOCATION: Wayanad District in North Kerala, 2,600
feet above sea level in the Nilgiris NEAREST AIRPORT: Calicut (60 kms)
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The Zuri Kumarakom
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LOCATION: Kumarakom
Offering a range of luxury rooms, suites and even the option to stay in a houseboat, the accommodation is well appointed and celebrates
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF KER ALA TOURISM; SHUT TERSTOCK
pouches, buttermilk and different paces of pouring particular oils, Krishnendu Ayur specializes in curing arthritis, diabetes, obesity as well as easing issues associated with age and women’s health.
If you’re amongst those who fear that they cannot abruptly abandon bright lights and cities, big or small, you may draw solace from the fact that this impressively isolated resort is not too far from Trivandrum. True to every letter of its name, the resort has access to waves beating relentlessly against the shore as well as the softer sounds of a lagoon. Their certified doctors focus on both curative and preventive medicine, often using herbs grown in their own garden, while a member of the Yoga World Congress runs their yoga centre. When in doubt about which therapy to follow, there is always Panchkarma (good old detox) to pursue under starry skies.
Keralan design in all its detail. The Ayurveda spa in fact retains every original intricacy of the original Ayurmana (home of a renowned group of practitioners) in its beams and walls, as it was imported in its entirety from its original location. Despite the acknowledged wisdom that beauty runs more than skin deep, the Ayurveda centre is more than happy to also skim the surface with their range of beauty and facial rituals, in addition to treating medical ailments.
Kairali - The Ayurvedic Healing Village LOCATION: Palakkad
NEAREST AIRPORT: Coimbatore (75 kms)
or Kochi Airport (125 kms) Nestled amidst greenery, this 50-acre healing village has 30 villas that have been designed completely based on Vastu Shastra. The village aims at offering holistic solutions for your health problems, lifestyle diseases such as stress and obesity, and eye and skin ailments. While their Ayurvedic therapies are a major draw, tourists come to the centre to enjoy its natural setting and make use of all modern-day conveniences you’d expect from a luxury resort— fine-dining restaurants, lavish swimming pool, and recreational facilities such as tennis courts and a library. Even if you’re not a believer, do try astrology and palmistry here.
The Leela Kovalam Beach LOCATION: Kovalam Beach
FROM TOP: An Ayurvedic spa room at The Zuri Kumarakom; an Ayurvedic treatment at The Leela Kovalam. OPPOSITE FROM TOP: Ayurvedic medicines; a beautiful flower set-up.
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F Z U R I H O T E L S & R E S O R T S ; T H E L E E L A K O VA L A M
NEAREST AIRPORT: Trivandrum (13 kms)
We suspect half the magic of this immensely popular resort lies in one word—location, three times over. Situated on a rocky stretch of the beach, the property doesn’t fight the landscape but instead integrates it in its staggered floor design. The spa occupies 8,000 square feet of light filled space on the cliff top, with the yoga pavilion offering stunning views of the sea. An in-house consultant assesses individual guest needs to find a suitable therapy from its range of Ayurvedic treatments. Other than targeted massages and rituals for improving head, back and eye problems, the spa offers relaxation programmes as well.
Kalari Kovilakom LOCATION: Kollengode town, in Palakkad NEAREST AIRPORT: Coimbatore (75 kms)
or Kochi (105 kms) Built in the 19th century as a palace, this Ayurveda resort works on ancient traditions and echoes the values of an ashram. Though it has modern-day luxuries like air conditioning and luxury baths, it gives the feeling of being transported back in
time as you stay in rooms of the erstwhile Lords and Ladies and enjoy an authentic ayurvedic experience. The resort houses 10 therapy and massage rooms, a yoga centre, and organises Kalari training sessions. Their expert therapists offer herbal treatments, while the kitchen prepares pure and simple vegetarian meals for guests. With no access to television, shopping centres, or games rooms, this is one place where you will be able to hear yourself think clearly, and walk on the ground barefoot (shoes aren’t allowed either).
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O F F B E AT
On Another Track Tea estates, backwater, and wildlife sanctuaries feature on all Kerala itineraries but only a few do it this way. BY APEKSHA BHATEJA. PHOTOGRAPHS BY KARAN TAKULIA
Misty clouds hovers over the tea estates in Munnar.
Rustic Charm It was the first time I drove off from a luxury hotel in an autorickshaw, but that was the idea behind this experience—to catch a whiff of rustic life. A houseboat gliding in the glistening backwaters of Alleppey is something that appears on all tourist brochures. Compared to that, this Village Life Experience in Alleppey’s country cousin, Kumarakom, might seem less glamorous but it is the more authentic side of life that you encounter when you catch everyday unhurried moments of villagers—an occasional goat grazing in the fields; kids in uniform hurrying for school; women taking care of daily chores by the canals; and fishermen rowing past with their haul. The instant I jumped into the wobbly wooden boat, Sabu, a retired army officer, started pointing out different plants, birds, and trees around the canal. There were three times he anchored his boat, and as a part of the experience, he introduced me to small activities that happen behind a row of luxury hotels in Kumarakom. I climbed up a coconut tree with the help of a machine; walked on narrow pathways of lush paddy fields; saw women weaving products from coconut leaves; tasted toddy fresh out of the tree; and even rowed until
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my arms hurt as I questioned Sabu on everything from his family life to the literacy level in his village. By the time we finished this two-hour tour, I had three souvenirs to take home: two passion fruits in my hand, a necklace made out of a lily around my neck, a round of Facebook-worthy images in my camera, and most importantly, an insight into lives of people who stay in background.
Tea Hopping A leisurely walk in the beautifully manicured tea estates of Munnar is the usual way to explore the plantation. Another way to scout the rolling green valleys is by taking a bumpy jeep safari. Braving strong winds and heavy showers, we drove on rugged roads to the highest point of Lockhart Tea Estate, accessible only by a jeep or a four-wheel drive. Aldrin, who works at Lockhart, advises to drive with caution here since they are wild elephants in the area that can be a handful. Fortunately, we didn’t run into any wild animals on this ride, but we did brush past lots of tea workers, hard at work even at 7 in the morning. The wind howled like a hound all around us, and I could see a row of oak and Eucalyptus trees bending to its will. When the sun finally smiled
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down for a minute, I saw the prettiest rainbow ever with all seven colours bright and clear. A word of caution, don’t forget to pack a warm jacket if you’re heading here or you will chill like we did in the cold weather.
Elephant Trail Scrubbing and stroking the hard, scaly trunk of Meena, a 25-year-old elephant, has to be one of the most extraordinary and enriching experiences I’ve had in Kerala. Every morning, elephants at Konni Elephant Training Centre in Pathanamthitta are taken in turns to a nearby canal, where they splash around. I gaped in awe when I saw two black mammoths, one of them still a baby, stretched out in the creek. “Elephants love lazing around in water,” explained Aji Alex, owner of a homestay in the area and my guide for this short trip. When Meena decided to wake up from her slumber, bringing herself to her feet, I noticed a ripple in the stream and retreated a few steps. “She wants to play,” I heard him say and that same instant Meena decided to dip her trunk in the water and spray us. It is believed that if you walk beneath an elephant, it will bring you good luck and give you a respite from nightmares—a superstition I was tempted to follow. The mahouts asked Meena to keep still as I took three shaky steps in the water under her belly, all the while praying she doesn’t trample the tiny human trudging around her. There is a nine-acre camp close by which is home to six more elephants of different sizes and ages, living in huge wooden cages called aanakoodu. Once upon a time, elephants were captured and trained in this area but this practice has been abolished, and I was informed by the Forest Range Officer that now they rescue orphans separated from the herd and give them a natural habitat to live in. This camp also has an elephant museum with an impressive skeleton of the mammal, a café, and a paper making unit.
FROM TOP : A village
life experience in Kumarakom; Meena and Eva, two gentle giants playing in the water; Sabu catching fish in the canal; coconut leaf weaving. BELOW: Toddy tapping.
NATURE’S CALLING The latest tourist attraction in Pathanamthitta is eco-tourist centre Adavi, located 10 kilometres from Konni. More than 400 tourists come this way during the peak season to go bowl boat riding on river Kallar and to get acquainted with nature. Cascade down the meandering stream in a round bamboo boat
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or cut through the current as you go up against it—each ride is an adventure like no other. Soon, you will also be able to spot elephants roaming freely around this area, for this centre is being developed as a sanctuary for orphaned elephants, with a butterfly garden, trekking paths, and tourist cottages.
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TA S T I N G T O U R S
Winsome Vineyards
Quaint ch창teaux in sprawling vineyards and long conversations on winemaking later, Bordeaux becomes an untapped French holiday that reveals itself to a global city-crawler. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADIL JAIN
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STANDING ON THE OUTSKIRTS of this little city-village
connoisseurs, but gradually—more than 8,000 of them producing wine in Bordeaux survive to tell the tale, with some big names like Petrus and Cheval Blanc that still don’t allow private visitors. Château Biac itself has a history that goes back to the 17th century, but the present owners, Tony Asseily and his family, Lebanese by origin, had bought it only nine years ago. I walk through the narrow lanes of the vineyard as Tony gleams about the young Biac vineyard vintages, their first red vintage being from 2008, that tastes remarkably well right now. Cutting through the heart of this vineyard is the Gironde estuary, dividing the landscape into two things that residents can be any bothered about—the left bank yielding rich wines that make this region so famous, and the right, bringing less expensive ones for regular consumption. This is also one of the lesser known facts about Bordeaux—most of the vineyards expectedly create two batches; the premium wine becomes the pride of the estate, and the second, usually cheaper and not as sophisticated in tasting, is kept for household use. Either way, the distinct character of each vintage is dependent on the Atlantic Ocean’s capricious weather. While it’s not easy to be certified or allowed to be branded as a Bordeaux wine, any vineyard here must comply with a list of regulations, the most fascinating being the absolute denunciation of manmade irrigation. Naturally, that makes things
CLOCKWISE: Château Troplong Mondot sprawls over a 33-acre property; Château Biac overlooks the river Garonne and the village of Langoiran; the wines are stored in barrels for ageing, which can range from 12-24 months at Château Haut Bailly the storage room also serves as the setting for the visitor’s wine tasting. OPPOSITE: Beautifully manicured gardens around the villas at Château Troplong Mondot.
PHOTO CREDIT
of Langoiran, I felt my senses adjust unconsciously to the view ahead. It was early June, and from this quaint cottage placed poetically on the little hilly terrain called Château Biac (chateaubiac.com), little would you imagine a vineyard grasping you such, when the vines haven’t even started flowering yet. But here, it had already made me its humble protagonist, and I began musing on its plot. Only 25 kilometres south of the main city of Bordeaux, the frame alters dramatically—grand historical facades are replaced by little cottages while the meandering river beckon more than gasps of this fresh countryside air—it’s not a drive through this place that pours out to a traveller. One will need to stay. For the châteaux hide ancient stories of perfected recipes and family ties that open up to
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FROM BELOW: Fresh
Sea Bass at the rooftop restaurant at La Dominique; Tony (standing) entertaining his guests with a home-cooked meal at Château Biac; the main residence of the owners of Château Haut Bailly.
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a little complicated. “If it rains just right, you get a great crop. If it doesn’t, the roots grow deeper, grapes are smaller and darker. More showers mean watery grapes, therefore one needs artificial means to bring the desired flavours and consistencies,” explains Yasmina Asseily, Tony’s daughter. Quite like back home, there is always a chance that the crop might completely die out; the biggest threat comes from violent hail storms that can decimate the work of a whole year in mere five minutes. But wine touring goes beyond Biac, and so do I, to some neighbouring vineyards over the next week—Haut Bailly (chateau-haut-bailly. com), Troplong Mondot (chateau-troplong-mondot. com), and La Dominique (chateau-ladominique. com) are rated ‘Grand Cru Classé’, a historical Bordeaux system of rating that grants them the permission to use the brand name. While all wines are blends, and each estate has its own set of unique ratios of how much each type of grape is to go into the wine, it also depends a lot on the land they own. Divided into smaller sections
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(or blocks), you find a variety of wines here— Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc—some of the most well-known classic Bordeaux varieties, all different in flavour. But technicality apart, there is something to be said about walking through the vines, where a heavy whiff of fermented grapes might subtly catch you at times. For the sake of any experience for that matter, this is one of the things, I realise, that remains in the olfactory memory. As I drive off there is more than wine that lingers in the trail I leave; most that the rear-view mirror misses to reflect.
Gastronomic Indulgence If you truly wish to enjoy a glass of the red elixir, pair it with the famous local dishes made of lamb, beef, and duck. There’s a lovely little restaurant called Le St Martin along the river Garonne, which winds its way down from the Pyrenees through the Bordeaux wine region, before joining the Atlantic Ocean. Tables are set under a marquee on the river bank where several times a month, barges carry entire Airbus wings up river to the factory in Toulouse. The restaurant has a surprisingly large and impressive collection of wines that complements their menu. The rooftop restaurant La Terrasse Rouge at Château La Dominique is just out of a French movie—a terrace with panoramic views of the vineyard below, fine wines, and fine food and that sense of serenity that comes when you combine the two. Another great option for a leisurely lunch is the terrace-restaurant at Château Troplot Mondot that looks out to beautifully manicured gardens. —A.B.
T H E TA K E AWAY
SOAPS You can find soap at a lot of stores here, but I was drawn to this olive-oilbased bar (below), which is super moisturising, and two made from donkey’s milk (left), which is supposed to brighten your skin. Chromata & Aromata; 30-22860-72194; US$11 and US$13 each.
SCARF Locals use scarves to prevent sun-burn, but I bought mine because it has a menswear vibe. I see myself wearing it with a suit or a pair of slouchy pants. Elegy Art & More; 30-22860-72191; US$21.
KIDS’ SLIPPERS
The island gets really hot between two and fi ve o’clock, when the sun is high overhead . This one may be heat-retaining black, but the wide brim kept me well shaded! The Upper Side of the World; 30-22860-71587; US$101.
JADE LAI |
SANDALS We introduced footwear last spring, so I looked to some local artisans for inspiration for future collections. Plus, I just had to buy a pair of Greek leather sandals as a memento. Oia’s Sandals; oiasandals. com; US$22.
EARRINGS Santorini is full of touristy gold jewellery. I liked that these were silver, and made by a local designer. They’re so simple and will mix easily with my wardrobe. The Upper Side of the World; 30-22860-71587; US$236.
| Santorini
DESIGNER When Lai opened Creatures of Comfort (creaturesofcomfort.us) in LA in 2005, the shop became a mecca for hip, hard-to-find labels like APC and Rachel Comey. Lai has since expanded to New York City and launched her own collection. On her first visit to the Greek island, she was inspired by both its architecture and attitude. “Santorini,” she says, “embodies the same traveller’s mind-set and easygoing vibe as our clothes.” During the trip, Lai rented a villa with her extended family, indulged in seafood and wine, and loaded up on local goods in the town of Oia. — KATIE JAMES
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PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID PRINCE
ST Y L I ST : M A R K C H A N D L E R
HAT
These have little olives on them, which kind of makes them tourist bait, but they were so cute, I had to buy them for a friend who just had a baby. Epilekton; epilekton.com; US$28.
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The Best New Ways to Book Your Flights Innovative new apps are one-upping the online travel tools you already know and love. And they’re about to make planning trips faster, easier, and best of all, cheaper. BY NIKKI EKSTEIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY PATRIK SVENSSON
CHANCES ARE, YOU’RE STUCK IN a flight-search rut. And chances are even better that it’s costing you money, time, and energy. For years, the online travel-booking space has been dominated by a handful of brands: Expedia, Kayak, Orbitz, and Priceline.com. They revolutionised the business, giving anyone the ability to book airline tickets without the help of a travel agent or airline rep. Now comes a new crop of powerful flight-finding websites and apps. Armed with machine learning, natural-language processing, and big-data capabilities, they offer novel ways to find cheap fares, plan better trips, and save time. Here are the ones you need to know about the next time you log on.
CLEVERLAYOVER | FOR
SPENDING TIME TO SAVE MONEY The promise Plug in your departure and arrival airports, and this meta-search site will show you non-stop fl ights as well as what the company calls ‘clever layovers’: money-saving itineraries that involve plane (and airline) changes .
HELLOGBYE | FOR ESCAPES WITH YOUR ENTOURAGE
The promise HelloGbye lets you type out (or, on the mobile app, dictate) a complicated itinerary involving multiple travellers, cities, hotels, and more—as if you were talking to a travel agent. Then the app makes sense of it all and suggests options to suit your needs. The process Natural-language parsing helps the site break down instructions like, “I need to fly to Miami for three days on November 15” or, “Amy, Lindsay, and I will meet in Cancún on December first.” It then fi nds fl ights and hotels for each passenger based on his or her HelloGbye profi le—which can be set up in just a few minutes. The results HelloGbye’s user-friendly design is a triumph; it really did allow us to plan and book a trip for multiple travellers in a flash. The site identifies where each person is coming from, along with the flight and the hotel they’re likely to want. Then it organises suggested itineraries on a calendar display. Don’t like the recommendations? Comparison-shop within the same browser tab. Also easy: splitting the bill with family and friends. The caveat The tool is still in early stages, so phrases can be misunderstood.
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always cheaper. The site saved us US$674 on a route from Cleveland to Myanmar, but a flight between Boston and Dubrovnik was less expensive on CheapOair. There was, however, a surprising twist: itineraries that were also available on other sites often cost up to US$500 less through CleverLayover. The caveat Using multiple carriers can make it difficult to change your flights.
The process The lightning-quick algorithm tries to find cheaper fares by combining flights from non-partner airlines—for instance, flying from Boston to Paris on one airline and then from Paris to Prague on another. You can also ask the site to put together itineraries that let you spend several days in a connecting stop. The results According to the company, roughly 30 per cent of searches discover a layover bargain, with offbeat and secondary destinations working best. In our tests, only 20 per cent of the results needed a strategic stop—and those itineraries weren’t
NEWS FROM THE OLD STANDBYS Fresh features from familiar travel-booking sites.
Google Flights now lets consumers search for flights to and from entire regions rather than just specific cities. It also gives you the ability to identify the ‘best flights,’ weighing price and convenience. | Orbitz recently launched a portal on its app where you can book package deals that combine flights and hotels. Also look for ‘mobile steals’—mobile-only discounts of up to 50 per cent. | Priceline.com created apps for the Apple Watch and Android Wear earlier this year. On Apple, you can access your itinerary on your wrist or find last-minute hotel deals; on Android, you can find useful places like pharmacies and ATMs near your hotel. | Expedia has started delivering ‘happiness’ scores for flights, factoring in legroom, wi fi availability, in-flight entertainment options, and more.
CELEBRATING
9 SUCCESSFUL YEARS
IN INDIA & SOUTH ASIA The process Instead of routes and carriers, Flykt is about places. Its team obsessively compiles data on cities around the globe— upwards of 500 when the site launched in October—and follows trends in order to understand what kinds of travellers are going where. The company leverages relationships with low-cost regional carriers to offer affordable itineraries, but finding the cheapest price isn’t its main advantage; it shines at intuiting what’s right for you while screening out too-expensive options.
FLYKT | FOR DISCOVERIES ON A BUDGET
The promise Th is streamlined tool (pronounced flaked) starts with a simple but essential question: How much do you want to spend? Indicate your budget, departure point, and interests (gastronomy or the beach, say); then add keywords to further refi ne the search (perhaps vegetarian or surfing). Flykt will present up to six destinations—plus fl ights and hotels—that fit your criteria.
The results Flykt’s recommendations were surprisingly sharp: for two New York– based food lovers seeking a romantic, lastminute trip for under US$2,800, it suggested itineraries in Stockholm, Vancouver, and Porto, Portugal. A smaller budget and shorter time frame yielded Asheville, North Carolina. Some results missed the mark (Altamonte Springs, Florida, isn’t yet a foodie hotspot), and there were some overly cumbersome itineraries (we’ll pass on the three-stop route to Split, Croatia). But all the ideas came in under budget, enough that we could tweak flight and hotel choices without running out of funds. The caveat There’s no mobile app yet.
DEALRAY | INTEL
FOR IMPULSIVE TRAVELLERS The promise For US$9.99 a month, DealRay will send you a text whenever it detects hardto-resist deals on fl ights (think New York to Paris for US$300). The process The company uses proprietary algorithms and manual research to scour the Internet for big price drops and ‘mistake’ fares (deals that stem from computer glitches or data-entry errors). Unlike with other fare-alert services, you can specify a point of departure. The alerts spotlight any flights that have been deeply discounted—and verified as bookable by DealRay’s staff, so you don’t waste your time on too-good-to-be-true offers. The results Of the 10 deals we received in roughly three months of testing, all were exclusive to DealRay—we didn’t see them anywhere else. Four were the result of airline blunders, including US$300 Iberia fares from New York to Tel Aviv and Casablanca. Two others highlighted US$99 international fl ights on Wow Air, which regularly promotes such prices but rarely makes them
available. All of the alerts included step-bystep directions for fi nding and completing the bookings. The caveat Fares can expire within a few hours and often only apply to limited departure dates. Also, while it is totally legal to book a mistake fare—even if it’s pretty obvious that someone misplaced a decimal point—at press time the Department of Transportation was allowing airlines to cancel those reservations at their discretion.
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IT’S A WIDE WORLD | INSIDE THE NEW AIRBUS A350 XWB These days, it’s rare for economy-class travellers to feel like they’re getting more instead of less, but Airbus’s new A350 XWB (‘extra wide body’) promises to change that. Because it has a carboncomposite fuselage—like its main competitor, the Boeing 787 Dreamliner—the plane is lighter and more fuel efficient than older
Quieter Flight The new Rolls-Royce Trent engines are some of the quietest operating today, creating less noise in the cabin.
planes. Perhaps more important for long-haul passengers, it offers a more comfortable ride. Some 40 airlines have ordered nearly 800 aircrafts; the first few are already crossing the skies for Qatar Airways and Vietnam Airlines. Here’s a closer look at how people in coach will get to live a little larger. — SETH MILLER
Better Air The corrosion-resistant skin of the A350 XWB allows for higher moisture levels and air pressure inside the plane, which means a less dehydrating journey. The air is also cleaner, thanks to the advanced filtering systems.
Roomier Rows The A350 XWB’s fuselage is five inches wider than the 787’s. While it can fit 10 seats across in economy, every carrier has so far put in only nine. Plus, the interior walls are vertical rather than deeply curved, so there’s more shoulder space in the window seats.
Bigger Bins There’s no need to scramble for bag space—Airbus says there’s enough room in the overhead compartments for every passenger to stash a standard-size carry-on.
Larger Windows Shooting cloudstagrams has never been easier. The windows are some of the largest flying— approximately 10 per cent more viewrevealing than those on a Boeing 777, though slightly smaller than those on a Dreamliner.
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Sharper Entertainment All of the carriers that have ordered planes have installed high-definition on-demand video/audio systems at every seat.
INFOGRAPHICS BY CATALOGTREE
R O B E R T H A R D I N G W O R L D I M A G E R Y/A L A M Y
Magical Ways to Love the Middle East IN THIS SPECIAL ON THE MIDDLE EAST WE HAVE PUT TOGETHER A LIST ON WHAT TO EXPERIENCE, EXPLORE, AND EXPECT FROM THE REGION NOW AND IN TIME TO COME. IF YOU THINK YOU HAVE TRAVELLED THERE ENOUGH TO KNOW ALL ABOUT IT, THINK AGAIN. WE CHALLENGE YOU TO READ ON AND SEE IF YOU CAN STRIKE OFF ALL 101. Inside the walls of the restored fort of Nakhal in the Western Hajar mountains of Oman.
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MIDDLE EAST
CLOCKWISE: Old guns at the
EXPLORE THE EMIRATES
While Dubai has been on your radar for many years now, this season try destinations such as Oman, Fujairah, and Jordan, for the new and exciting.
1 Western Hajar
Mountains Oman
Rising over 2,000 metres above the surrounding countryside, the Western Hajar mountains form Oman’s geological backbone. The rugged mountains are ideal for driving around to take in the untouched beauty of the historic old mudbrick towns and date plantations. If you are in the
mood for a sweat-inducing, stamina-testing hike; then head to the Bahla fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and Jabrin Castle.
2 Umm Qais Jordan
Away from much of Jordan’s regular tourist hubs, Umm Qais is discreetly tucked away in the South of Amman. While the region is known for its gorgeous
ruins and panoramic views of the countryside, its seascapes will enthral you for sure. Take a geography quiz and try to spot Israel, the sea of Galilee, and Golan Heights.
3 Salalah Oman
Located in the Southern part of Oman, the colourful Salalah is largely unexplored and ideal for those looking for a novel
SHOP TILL YOU DROP 9 POP UP STORES Of course Dubai is every shoppers’ paradise. If you have missed the shopping festival then don’t stress as besides the wonderfully surplous malls that the city has, there is a new, albeit temporary format that is catching everyone’s attention—pop-up stores. Every Saturday, exhibitions featuring Indian, Pakistani, and other Asian designers set up stalls that offer indigenous labels as well as products from international luxury
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brands. It’ll be a good idea to catch up on few such exhibitions showcasing around your time of travel. 10 L ARGEST MALL IN QATAR Just when you thought that you’ve shopped everywhere and know every mall—the Mall of Qatar is all set to open its doors in 2016. It is said to become the biggest shopping and entertainment complex in Qatar. A glass-domed space equal to the size of three football fields, appropriately called the
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Oasis, has been designed to bring natural light and greenery to the indoor retail centre. Make sure the Mall of Qatar features on your to-do list next year. 11 MORE MEANS MORE The Mall of the Emirates will no longer look the same—it is undergoing a multi-stage redevelopment, worth more than US$0.27 billion. The stunning new additions to the mall will include 24-screen VOX Cinema and other latest forms of entertainment, dining, and
retail experiences. New fashion labels and luxury brands will mark their presence here soon. 12 SHOPPING FESTIVAL If you are tired of visiting the good ol’ Dubai shopping festival and looking for a different experience the coming year then Umm Al Quwain is an interesting option. It is garnering acclaim for its rich cultural offerings and traditional diversity, providing shoppers with a much more localised experience.
Middle-Eastern experience. Explore its tombs, ruins, and the rustic country steeped in history, legends, and myths. At the same time, enjoy its modern side by heading to the beaches for scuba diving, snorkelling, jetskiing, and diving.
4 Ras Al Khaimah
In the bygone era, the people of UAE headed to Ras Al
T O P, C E N T R E : H A C K E N B E R G - P H O T O - C O L O G N E /A L A M Y; S H U T T E R S T O C K (4 )
museum of Ras Al Khaimah; Western Hajar mountains; ancient ruins at Umm Qais; Fujairah city.
Entrance to Umm alQuwain Museum.
Khaimah’s Nakheel area to spend their summers. Today, luxury resorts grace the region. While you may be tempted to just sit back and relax by the long beaches here, take time out to explore the Khatt area and its hot water springs. Also see the old forts and castles such as Fort Dhaya, or visit the traditional houses and villages and meet the locals.
5 Al Hail fortress Fujairah The Emirate of Fujairah includes some of the most important museums in the United Arab Emirates. These museums record the ancestral history and heritage of the region. One such museum is the Al Hail fortress, also regarded as the most dramatic and strongest in the region. Built with gravel, clay, wood, and palm leaves, you can note its unique defensive construction or visit for the panoramic views it affords.
6 Wadi Ham Fujairah
While wadi-bashing is common in Wadi Siji, Wadi Saham and Wadi Mai; it is Wadi Ham that is gaining popularity for being the longest valley with stunning mountain routes. Running over staggering 30 kilometres, go here to capture the surreal valley filled with towering stony promontories and sandy beds.
M A R K D A F F E Y/A L A M Y
7 Wareea Valley
Wareea valley is a traveller’s paradise with beautiful waterfalls that can be seen all year round. The most magnificent of the lot is the Masafi waterfalls, which flows into Fujairah’s beautiful Siji valley. The Middle East is also all about manmade wonders. A resident of the Masafi village, Ali Al Mahrazi, is so in love with waterfalls that over the last 20 years he has made several artificial waterfalls. He invites tourists into his property to look at them and also have lunch with him.
8 UMM AL QUWAIN FORT
LEAST POPULOUS OF THE SEVEN EMIRATES, UMM AL QUWAIN HAS MANY TREASURES WAITING TO BE EXPLORED LIKE THE SPECTACULAR FORT LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE OLD TOWN OVERLOOKING THE SEA. IF YOU ARE CURIOUS TO DISCOVER THE ANCIENT EMIRATES, VISIT THE MUSEUM TO SEE LOCAL ARTEFACTS AND A COLLECTION OF WEAPONS USED BY THE RULERS OF THE EMIRATE.
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Sharjah Light Festival.
AN ARTY TREAT 13 19th Century Magic The Illusionists 1903 featuring six brand new magicians and eight of the world’s most popular illusionists will perform in Dubai from November 6 to 9 at Shaikh Rashid Hall in Dubai World Trade Centre. They will repeat the performance in Abu Dhabi from November 11 to 14 at du Forum in Yas Island. The true art of magic will be explored in exquisite spectacles that transformed stage entertainment over 100 years ago.
14 The Fantastic Three Saadiyat Island offers a heady dose of art and culture. Wander around this island a little and you will chance
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upon various cultural centres. Come December, the island will be home of its first museum—Louvre Abu Dhabi. In the year to follow, the grand openings will include those of Guggenheim and Zayed National museums. A seventon dome with a diameter of 180 metres is said to become the Louvre’s architectural masterpiece.
15 A Film Festival to Catch The third annual Ajyal Youth Film Festival, presented by the Doha Film Institute, will start on November 29 till December 6, at Katara Cultural Village. The festival is slated to open with the Middle East Premiere of The Idol, from Academy
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Award-nominated Palestinian filmmaker Hany Abu-Assad. If you are keen to be a part of this filmy festivity then the full line-up and schedule will be announced early November.
Explore Your World that will include nightly performances by international musicians including Grammy Awardwinning group Tinariwen, public workshops, and a temporary food market.
16 The New Art district
17 For the Bookworms
With its souks and industry, warehouse and markets, Al Mina is one of the most vibrant places in Abu Dhabi. This is also where Warehouse421 will open on November 19. Visitors can engage with the arts, not just via exhibitions, but also through workshops, lectures, and a whole range of other activities. The launch will feature a three-day festival,
The 34th Sharjah International Book Fair is scheduled to be held from November 4 to 14 and will witness participation of as many as 1,502 publishing houses from 64 countries, offering a display of over 1.5 million books. There will be 33 seminars, spanning various literary and cultural topics, book reviews and discussion panels—if you are a bookworm then November sure is a month to
Z U M A P R E S S , I N C . /A L A M Y
From a spectacular congregation of the world’s best illusionists to a new art district and opening of the Louvre, this region is all set to dazzle the culture seeker.
ME TO-DO
Interesting events that can change your travel plans. 22 EQUESTRIAN ELOQUENCE The impressive Al Shaqab equestrian complex will host the Doha Longines Global Champions Tour from November 12 to 14. Besides watching the international participants, keep your eyes out for the impressive competitors from Qatar. 23 A SWORD FESTIVAL The Emir 25th International Equestrian Sword Festival is slated for late February at the Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club. The week-long event will attract internationally-renowned jockeys.
be in Sharjah. Interestingly, a popular feature at the fair is the Cooking Corner that will host famous chefs.
18 The love
of Orchestra
Catch a performance of the Qatar Philharmonic Orchestra and get a taste of classical music. Performed by 101 musicians from 30 countries at the Katara Cultural Village, it combines Arabic and Western streams. The unique outcome is one you will not forget for days to come.
FROM TOP: DRE AMSTIME; GE T T YIMAGES; COURTESY OF VOX MALL
19 Let there be Light Experience a unique amalgamation of light and sound at the international
24 FUN RUN Nike Middle East has announced We Run DXB, a 10K race in Downtown Dubai on November 13. The race is part of the global Nike We Run series hosted in 18 cities.
festival of lights in Sharjah. Here, drawings are made using light and are a sight to behold. The experience turns truly surreal with the soothing music playing in the background.
25 WELCOME ABOARD On sale from November 2015, Thomson Cruises will begin operating from Dubai. Starting December next year, you can choose from two seven-night itineraries— Arabian Nights and Cities of Gold. The cruise will visit six destinations including Khasab and Muscat, Oman; Manama, Bahrain; Doha, Qatar; and Abu Dhabi and KhorFakkan, UAE. You will get time to enjoy the Burj al Arab and Burj Khalifa in Dubai, the Grand Mosque in Muscat, the Musafi Mountains in KhorFakkan, and even get your adrenaline soaring at the Ferrari World in Abu Dhabi.
20 Maraya Art Centre During your next visit to Sharjah, block some time to visit the Maraya Art Centre, a venue that features art exhibitions and other related events at all times of the year. On its three floors are the Maraya Community, the Barjeel Art Foundation, and the Maraya Art Gallery that give an insight into the craft of the region and promote local artists.
FROM TOP: Katara Cultural
Village in Doha, Qatar; a challenge during The International Equestrian Sword Festival.
21 A starry Affair Plain old popcorn as movie-viewing food will soon be passé in the Middle East. At least, at the gold class movie viewing section of the Vox Mall in Dubai as they are all set to serve dishes prepared by renowned chefs, including Michelin-star holders. The menu will also change to suit the theme of the movie on show.
26 FORGET
PARKING VOES
HotPotato, the only ondemand public valet app, will launch its parking service in Dubai and Abu Dhabi soon. Costing US$4 per park for three hours or US$136 for a monthly pass, the app will help motorists save time and money in some of the most congested areas in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Customers can also opt for a gas fill-up, a car wash, and other car services while the car is parked.
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LOVED ONES IN TOW
Whether travelling with teenagers or with friends, if you like to travel with your loved one then read on. 27 NEW AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Travelling with tots through Dubai Airport’s Terminal 3? Head to the Zen Garden at Concourse B. It has a children’s area between Gates B7 and B8, complete with creative play equipment, television screens featuring children’s programmes, and more. 28 TIME TO PARTY Located four kilometres off the coast of Dubai, The Island, on ‘Lebanon’, is the only one of the 300 islands in The World—Dubai’s portfolio that partygoers can visit. Accessible via speedboat, ferry, private luxury yacht or seaplane, the 22,000-square-metre island boasts two beaches, six chalets, a volleyball court, a pool, more than 30 kayaks, a Mediterranean restaurant, a DJ booth, and a stage. The Gourmet package, for a minimum of 45 guests, is US$136 per head and includes transportation, a barbecue buffet, and two hours of unlimited soft drinks.
NEW ON THE BLOCK
You may have your favourite hotel and your preferred room chalked out but these new entrantsmight make you reconsider.
31 Underwater Suite What does it feel like to sleep inside an aquarium? If this gets your inquisitive then the underwater suite in Dubai’s Atlantis the Palm is where you’ll find yourself surrounded by fish and a variety of marine creatures. And if that’s not enough, it now comes with a complimentary dolphin encounter!
32 An Apartment for You
attractive introductory offers running till January.
Ascott Tahlia are modern serviced apartments offering panoramic views of the city of Jeddah in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. On offer are five categories of comfortable apartments, located on the city’s main commercial avenue but designed to provide a relaxing cocoon for guests. Don’t miss the
33 Get Pampered
Kick back, put up your feet, lounge amidst stylish Mediterranean elegance and start the next year in suites that have their own terraced swimming pools. And then get thoroughly spoilt for choice with four restaurants serving decadent Japanese, seafood,
30 FAMILY SOJOURN IN JORDAN The Kempinski Hotel, Ishtar goes all out to make their young guests feel special. The hotel staff welcomes them with stuffed camels and a personalised play passport. The well-equipped Kids Club offers a host of other activities to keep them busy, like face painting, Wii competitions, story time and movie time. The Indiana Jones Treasure Hunt will take them all over the resort looking for clues. The water babies can also take a dip in one of the nine swimming pools in the hotel.
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38 FREQUENT VISITORS
THE BOULEVARD ARJAAN BY ROTANA IN JORDAN IS JUST THE PLACE FOR LUXURY DWELLERS. NEARLY 400 LAVISH APARTMENTS ARE UP FOR CHOICE WITH AN ARRAY OF DINING OPTIONS, AND OFFERING SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF AMMAN. NOW, YOU CAN EVEN HAVE A ROMANTIC FEAST AT ITS NEWLY-OPENED FRENCH RESTAURANT CAFE MARGAUX.
C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B O U L E VA R D A R J A A N B Y R O TA N A
29 LOCAL MARKET Ripe Market at Saadiyat Island brings lots of delicious, local, seasonal, and organic produce along with, eggs, local honey and great superfoods. More than just a farmer’s market, you will find vendors for everything from art and crafts, to fashion, jewellery, food and gifts. After a successful launch in Duabi and Sharhaj, Ripe has come to Abu Dhabi at The Collection at the St Regis Saadiyat Island Resort.
Arabic, and Italian fare. We are talking about Langham Palm Jumeirah that will open doors in Dubai early next year. Oh, and did we tell you about the five lounges—tea, tapas, juice, executive, and traveller.
34 Dream Package
The iconic Burj Al Arab is eponymous with Dubai. Till May 10, 2016, the hotel is offering a Dream Package that includes a complimentary stay for three children (11 years old and younger) at a duplex suite, complimentary daily buffet breakfast, evening hors d’oeuvres and beverages, lunch or dinner buffet for two at
Junsui and Al Iwan restaurants, 25-minute back, neck and shoulder massage for two once per stay, a 24-hour private butler service, a complimentary access to Wild Wadi Waterpark, and a full-size Hermes amenities for him and her, among other extravagances.
35 Fashionably in Dubai Experience luxury at its best in the soon-to-be-opened Palazzo Versace from the house of one of the world’s most acclaimed fashion brands. From the linen, crockery to cutlery and interiors, everything around you will be
created by the brand’s team of designers. Additionally, the designer developed a perfume exclusively for the luxury hotel.
36 Calling honeymooning couples Looking to impress your bride? Look no further than the Armani Hotel Dubai. For a minimum of a two-night stay, the hotel will make your honeymoon extra special with a complimentary Bentley pick and drop service from the airport, and an upgrade including signature amenities and a congratulatory bottle of sparkling wine.
You’ll even get a welcome drink at Armani Lounge and get pampered with a daily US$40 Armani SPA credit for yourselves.
37 Desert Fun
Want to enjoy dune bashing, sand boarding, camel riding, zip lining and star gazing? The Al Nahda Resort & Spa in Wadi Al Abiyad offers all this and more in its recentlyopened 30-room desert resort, Dunes by Al Nahda. There are six executive rooms with stunning views of the desert, while 12 VIP rooms and tents allow you to get an authentic desert experience.
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41
SIT BACK AND GAZE AT THE DRAMATIC HAJAR MOUNTAINS FROM THE COMFORT OF YOUR ROOM IN THE NEWLY-OPENED MILLENNIUM HOTEL, BETWEEN DUBAI AND SHARJAH. THE CALM AND SERENE HOTEL HAS EASY ACCESS TO THE BEACH AND FORTS, AND IS A SHORT DRIVE TO THE DUBAI.
40 Cross Continents
Experience Japanese charm, elegance, and design excellence as Nobu Riyadh debuts in the Middle East with a beautiful hotel in Saudi Arabia. The interiors of the hotel combine Japanese intricacy with subtle Arabic references featuring raw materials such as wood and stone done in earth colours, while the lighting is inspired by origami.
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The Oberoi Group opened its first property in the Middle East in 2013 in Dubai. Those who swear by The Oberoi hospitality will soon have two new properties to choose from as the group begins managing a 250-key hotel in the West Bay area of Doha and a 148-key luxury serviced apartment building located in Lusail, Doha.
FROM TOP: COURTESY OF THE OBEROI GROUP; COURTESY OF MILLENNIUM HOTEL; C O U R T E S Y O F N O B U R I YA D H
39 FUJAIRAH FOR LUXURY
MAKING A MARK
42 Romance in Arabic Luxury
Head to Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara to experience a perfectly, secluded getaway. The views of the Liwa Desert afforded by the property instantly awaken feelings of love and romance. Ideal for honeymooners is the Desert Romance package. Starting from US$708, it is available all through next year. It includes a bottle of sparkling wine or date juice on arrival, daily buffet breakfast for two, a 90-minute signature couple’s massage and a romantic room set up.
43 A Luxurious Day
The Palatial Day Experience at the Ritz Carlton property in Oman—Al Bustan Palace is the perfect way to spend a day in the hotel that offers access to the longest private beach in Muscat. The US$234 package is available for use of two adults and two children below 12 years of age from 10 am to 6 pm and does not include overnight accommodation.
44 Opulent Vacation The Royal Residences at
C O U R T E S Y O F AT L A N T I S T H E PA L M D U B A I
JET SET GO 46 FLEET ADDITION Oman Air has recently added the new 787 Dreamliner to its fleet. This will dramatically improve air travel experience of passengers flying to Saudi Arabia and Europe. 47 MORE FLIGHTS TO ABU DHABI Jet Airways is set to launch daily international flights from Ahmedabad, Pune, and Mangalore, to Abu Dhabi. Jet Airways is currently the only private Indian airline to operate over 50 daily flights to multiple destinations
Jumeirah Zabeel Saray offers a range of accommodation options for your family. Choose from the five-bedroom beach residence, with direct access to a private beach or the four-bedroom lagoon residence with a private pool. The Suite Sensation package allows you to book four nights in one of the Suites or Royal Residences and get the fifth night complimentary. The offer also includes exclusive access to Sinbad’s Kids Club, and two complimentary tickets to Wild Wadi Waterpark.
45 Wedding Package
Conrad Dubai offers a chance to win an incredible honeymoon at Conrad New York if you book a wedding package before January 31. Upon booking a wedding package starting from US$68 per person, the bride and groom will get a one-night stay in an executive suite, a 5-tier cake, complementary pick up for the bride in a Maserati Quattroporte, and more. The offer is valid for weddings scheduled before June 30.
At Atlantis The Palm Dubai.
New services, new planes and more. Find out how these Arab airlines are trying to outdo each other. in the Gulf. Guests travelling onwards from the UAE’s capital city to the United States can access the US Preclearance at Abu Dhabi airport. 48 PRIVATE ON TWITTER Etihad Airways’ Gold and Platinum members can now access a private Twitter account, @ EtihadPremium, for real-time feedback to requests and questions. The airline has guaranteed that the response time will take no more than five minutes. This channel aims to enhance the
experience of guests by offering them a personalised service and delivering a range of unique benefits. 49 CUSTOMS PRECLEARANCE The UAE flag carrier Etihad announced that preclearance through US Customs and Border Protection will now be available for all its passengers enabling them to arrive in the US as domestic passengers and avoiding having to queue at immigration upon arrival. They can check their luggage directly to their
FREQUENT FLYERS
final destinations by meeting TSA security screening standards at the originating airport.
Often in the Middle East for business? Here’s the latest you need to know.
50 NEW IN SAUDI ARABIA Qatar Airways has launched a new service to its eighth destination in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia with four flights a week to Abha. The new route will bring additional flexibility for passengers connecting from Asia, the Middle East, Europe and the Americas. An Airbus A320 with an average flight time of just over two hours will operate this service.
51 VISA FEE WAIVER The Jordanian government has approved visa fees to be waived for tourists of all nationalities with immediate effect. The waiver will be on a condition that the traveller spends a minimum of two consecutive nights in Jordan. 52 UPGRADE The King Khaled International Airport in Saudi Arabia is currently undergoing massive development and expansion that aims at increasing its capacity to cope with growing tourism requirements. 53 ME CONNECT Come February, Emirates Airlines will launch the longest flight in the world from Dubai to Panama City, lasting more than 17 hours. Panama’s capital will also be the airline’s first destination in Central America.
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LEFT: The newly-opened Marsa Malaz Kempinski, Qatar. FROM BELOW: The exterior of the Hilton Dead Sea Resort; a room in the property.
TREATS BY THE BEACH
54 Marsa Malaz
Kempinski – Qatar
When Europe meets Arabian Nights, the result is probably something like the newly-opened Marsa Malaz Kempinski. Located on The Pearl Doha, a man-made island, the island is secluded and offers immense privacy to those who desire so. However, if you want to experience
the city on a given day, then Qatar’s major attractions are just a short drive away.
55 Luxury for you
If you’re looking for exclusivity and luxury packaged together beautifully, then Zaya Nurai Island is the place to be. Touted as the hottest new address in Abu Dhabi, it is a boutique hotel with just 32 sprawling beach
villas which come complete with a 24-hour dedicated butler.
56 View Worthy
You’ll not get tired of looking out over the sea from this new 68-storey Four Seasons Bahrain Bay which stands on its own five-hectare island. But more fascinating are the two sky bridges which house all of the hotel’s hotspots including
seven concept restaurants.
57 Sea for Company If you are at the recentlyopened Fairmont Ajman, the azure blue waters of the Arabian Sea will be your constant companion. Envelop yourself in comfort and luxury, especially in the two bi-level royal penthouse suites.
58 Low Point, Definitely Not
Joining the elite brands along the Dead Sea and making a mark on its own is the Hilton Dead Sea Resort and Spa. It is located at the lowest point on earth—more than 1,300 feet below sea level in the Jordan Valley. The hotel provides direct access to the beach via two lifts that scale the gorge and is the only one to have a pontoon and sun deck for its guests. It also has a luxurious spa, and six bars and restaurants.
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FROM TOP: COURTESY OF MARSA MAL A Z K EMPINSK I (2); COURTESY OF HILTON DE AD SE A RESORT AND SPA
There is nothing better than relaxing by the beach, soaking up the sun while reading your favourite book, and going for an occasional dip.
59 SEE IT TO BELIEVE IT
WITH SPECTACULAR OCEAN VIEWS OF THE ARABIAN GULF FROM EVERY ROOM AND A WARM WELCOME BY A DANCING FOUNTAIN, THE ART ROTANA AMWAJ ISLAND IS WHERE YOU’D WANT TO BE FOR A BOUT OF REJUVENATION. A PRIVATE BEACH, TROPICAL SPLENDOUR, CAPTIVATING DISPLAY OF ART, AND REFINED ELEGANCE OF THE HOTEL ADD TO THE EXPERIENCE.
C O U R T E S Y O F A R T R O TA N A ; C O U R T E S Y O F J AW H A R A F L O AT I N G S U I T E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N D H YAT T D U B A I
60 STAY AFLOAT
If staying on the beach is not close enough to water for you, then book yourself in Jawhara Floating Suites in Dubai. An oasis in the middle of the sea, the suite floats gently on water and provides a tranquil abode with lovely food, great views, and an indoor fishing area. You can even get complimentary fishing sessions now for extended stays.
SIX FOR YOUR ABS AND MORE 61 HEALTH CLUB AND SPA AT WARWICK HOTEL, Dubai For the health conscious, what could be more satisfying than a well-equipped fitness centre and spa located high in the sky affording views that’ll motivate you further. The new Kirana Spa and Health Club is on the 45th floor of the Warwick Hotel. There’s even a tennis court on this level. 62 GOLF ON THE BEACH, Dubai Imagine playing golf
on the beach! Putting in water is possible at Sofitel, The Palm which has turned the beach into a golf course and the sea into its greens. What’s more, putters hit biodegradable golf balls into the water.
one for its discerning guests. Opulent, comfortable, and stylish, the sprawling spa accommodates guests in extreme privacy and provides a wide range of treatments, massages, and services.
63 SIX SENSES SPA IN RITZ CARLTON, MUSCAT, Oman If relaxation is on your mind, then there is nothing that beats the treatments offered at a Six Senses Spa. The Ritz Cartlon in Muscat recently opened
64 PROVOCATEUR CLUB IN JUMEIRAH BEACH, Dubai Groove and bogey away in style and lavishness at the Provocateur Club in Jumeirah beach, labelled as most trendy place to be for a rocking nightlife. With
emphasis on throbbing electronic music, the club grants exclusive access and promises to be an unforgettable experience. 65 CHAMELEON CLUB, Dubai Refitted, renovated, and with many new offerings, the exclusive Chameleon Club has a new VIP zone with a large dance floor, many DJs and acrobats performing through the night. However, the massive chameleon statue continues to
hold centrestage, lit brilliantly in coloured lights. 66 CHINAWHITE, Dubai If you want to see how exclusive a nightclub can get, head to Chinawhite inside the Grand Hyatt. Currently, it is the place to see and be seen at. Open from 10 pm to 3am only on Thursday and Friday, the club is dramatically designed with an Oriental theme. It plays funky house, hip-hop, EDM, and R&B music.
Chinawhite inside the Grand Hyatt in Dubai.
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FOODIE’S PARADISE
Grilled halloumi, falafel, hummus, tabouleh, fattoush, shawarma, baklava—all these beautiful fresh, wholesome and aromatic dishes make our mouth water. What about you?
67 Yummy Package
The Banyan Tree Al Wadi offers the Soul Food package starting from US$80 per person. Available every Saturday morning until December 31, it will take you on a gastronomic journey to discover the traditional cuisine of the area. More than just a standard cookery class, the experience includes a trip to Ras Al Khaimah’s fish or poultry market, under the guidance of one of the hotel’s chefs. Here you can stop to shop for local ingredients before you are taught how to incorporate delicate Middle Eastern flavours to create a delectable dish.
68 Cupcakes of Gold
Middle East’s obsession with gold is not the one die. Just when you thought that having experimented with the precious metal in almost every thinkable way, they are done, the Bloomsbury Bakery in Abu Dhabi created a cupcake to prove you wrong. Known for its delicious bakes, the bakery infuses its famous cupcakes with 24-carat gold flecks. Taste it to know if they meet the your standard of luxury.
69 A taste of Japan
70 Zero Gravity
If Dubai’s bustling atmosphere leaves you wanting a more exclusive experience, then
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71 The English Kitchen
Now you can get a taste of the notorious English chef Gordon Ramsey’s brilliant cooking at the Bread Street Kitchen in Atlantis the Palm. Specialising in English food, the restaurant promises to be big, boisterous and overall fun with such dishes as pea soup, curried lobster, and Scottish salmon.
TOP: BAERBEL SCHMIDT
Taste dishes from the globally-acclaimed, Japanese restaurant Nobu helmed by the eponymous chef as it debuts in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. It comes in a beautifully-done space with Japanese gardens, wooden interiors, juice bar, spacious dining space and inimitable food.
Pans and Boards. Sample English, Mediterranean, and French fare at the restaurant, but as the name suggests the dish you order is either served on a pot, a pan, or a board! Don’t miss the black squid tempura, lamb meatballs, treacle-marinated salmon, and red fruit and apple crumble.
73 A Sensory Experience Fancy eating your food blindfolded? At the W Hotel in Doha be prepared to take your senses on a unique journey. Chef Kim Hyung Gyu invites various other chefs to the restaurant to design the menu. Dishes are then paired with wines while blindfolded guests are led to their chairs and carefully handed cutlery, making each meal a brand new experience.
74 Indian Signature
From a Japanese feast to a traditional Middle-Eastern fare, the region has much to offer to foodies.
Get an elaborate tasting of authentic Indian food in a finedining setting at Signature, the latest venture by Chef Sanjeev Kapoor in the Melia Hotel, Qatar. The restaurant presents on its menu quintessential Indian ingredients and cooking techniques, but in an interactive atmosphere. Opt for the degustation menu that can be paired with the best wines.
75 What a cuppa! head to Zero Gravity. At this newly-opened exclusive bar you can savour stunning views of the beach as you sit in the gorgeous ambience savouring an exceptional fare.
72 Served with Style
Celebrity chef Tom Aikens debuts in the UAE with his evocatively named eatery Pots,
How about coffee with a dose of history, news, and interactive media? Do all this and more at the Al Jazeera Cafe in Qatar, started recently by the eponymous news group. Meant to be a community cafe, it aims to provide a contemporary experience with such delectable eats as rye bread sandwiches, pastries, date brulee and halwa among other things.
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77 A Meal to Remember
JAPANESE FARE
Dine on delectable and delicate Japanese dishes at the latest hotspot in Doha— Nozomi Doha. Charmingly located amidst the gardens of the Marsa Malaz Kempinski, Nozomi’s highlights include yellow-tail sashimi, soft shell crabs, black cod, kobe beef, and lobster tempura.
Get a taste of Russian and other Slavic dishes at the rare Slavic-theme restaurant Vesna in Dubai, which translates to spring in Russian, which opened this October. Though the mainstay is dishes such as the Ukranian borscht, the restaurant creatively uses Indian spices as well as Asian and European influences in its food.
78 Sporty Affair
This is stuff that a sportslover’s dreams are made of—a sports-themed gastropub inside a sports facility. The Sportsman’s Arms in Abu Dhabi is American-Irishthemed and opened in September this year. Located inside the tennis stadium of Zayed Sports City, its menu featuring a variety of beers and pub grub comes highly recommended.
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FUN AND FROLIC
When adventure is on your mind always, there is no place better than the Middle East. From sand dune bashing, to diving in an aquarium, watching the F1 races to bull fighting, you name it and it’s here.
81 Scuba Diving For Kids
FUTURISTIC PROJECT
For a travel plan that offers variety, here are some interesting activities 79 INDIAN DUBAI POLICE L AUNCHES TOURIST FRIENDLY CAMPAIGN The ‘Emirates Welcomes Cultures’ campaign has been launched by Dubai Police to educate tourists about the local code of conduct, as well as to encourage visitors to Dubai to reach out to tourism police whenever necessary. The campaign will run through December 31, with the Tourism Police officials placed in malls, airports, beaches and hotels to assist visitors.
Perfect for 8-10 years old, the Bubble Maker course at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai is a great way for children to experience scuba diving through play in a shallow pool environment under the direct supervision of PADI qualified Dive Atlantis instructors. This experience is conducted over two hours, with a brief classroom session followed by an underwater skills session in a safe, controlled and confined pool environment.
82 The Thrilling Seabreacher The Seabreacher is a twoseater, fully submersible watercraft in the shape of a shark. Not only does the seabreacher look exciting,
80 FUTURISTIC PROJECT In a few years’ time, it will be possible to travel between Dubai and Abu Dhabi in less than 15 minutes thanks to Hyperloop Technologies. Hyperloop is a transportation system wherein a full-length tube is built between destinations. The controlled environment inside the tube allows people or cargo to travel at an extremely fast speed.
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CLOCKWISE: Sir Bani
Yas Island; a view of Petra by night; sailfish statue in Umm Al Quwain.
with jaws et al, it also has the ability to skim the surface of the sea at 100 kilometres per hour, dive below waves and do quick turns and spins. You can experience this thrilling activity at Rixos The Palm in Palm Jumeirah. The hotel’s pro-surfer day package includes a ride for two, plus a private cabana, bucket of drinks, and paddleboarding session.
83 Adventurous in Jordan
Now is a great time to get outdoors in Jordan. When the temperature dips from
October through April, discover a 80-kilometre route through the deserts, mountains, and peaks of Jordan. Besides the iconic sites of the Siq, soak in the energy and mystical vibes at the Treasury, the Monastery, the Place of High Sacrifice and the Great Temple. And if you have the time, there is a 630-kilometre 36-day hiking trail, part of which has been rated amongst the top 10 multiday hikes in the world.
84 IMG Worlds of Adventure The largest indoor theme park in the world is scheduled to
85 Drift Driving
Drifting is an extreme sport that involves exceeding your car tyre’s limits of adhesion, exhibiting a lateral slip, and resulting in an oversteer condition. The Dubai Autodrome offers this thrill for US$300 for an hour-long session.
open in Dubai later this year. It will have four zones, including Marvel, Cartoon Network, Lost ValleyDinosaur Adventure and IMG Boulevard. Besides having trilling rides along with some for the fainthearted as well, it will feature a 12-screen Novo Cinema multiplex with an IMAX screen and two VIP theaters.
86 Grand Prix
Book your tickets now for Middle East’s greatest international sporting event. Scheduled for November 27, 28 and 29, the Formula 1 Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix promises to be bigger and better than ever before. It will host GP2 and GP3 as the support races, the final race of the 2015 season.
87 Motocross Championships The FIM Motocross World Championships will be held in Doha on February 26 and 27 this coming year with the world’s greatest motorbike racers competing against one another. Adding to the thrill of the sport, this is the only round of the world championships that will take place at night under the floodlit track at Losail.
waters and get an adrenalinepumping experience.
90 Petra by night
Petra, the fabulous Jordan location, is an awe-inspiring and jaw-dropping experience by day. But to get a mysterious experience, take the Petra
by Night tour. It is held on a handful of nights every week. A fascinating storyteller will bring to life historic tales as you walk along paths lit by candles.
91 Kitesurfing
Get your adrenaline pumping as you try your hand at
kitesurfing. Experience the rush on water with the wind for company in this unique sport where you balance on a surfboard as you are pulled away by a kite. Changing wind patterns and altering speed add an element of surprise and uncertainty to the experience.
92 FLYBOARDING
FLYBOARDING IS THE LATEST CRAZE TO HIT DUBAI’S WATERS AND IS MORE EXHILARATING THAN IT LOOKS—AFTER ALL YOU BOUND AND BOUNCE OFF THE SEA. THE RIDER IS STRAPPED INTO BOOTS ATTACHED TO A BOARD WITH A SPECIAL AIR NOZZLE, AND WITHIN NO TIME ONE IS ABLE TO PERFORM TRICKS AND BACK FLIPS AS WELL. NAME ANY THRILL-SEEKING CELEBRITY AND THEY’RE SURE TO HAVE TRIED IT.
88 Pearl of Dubai
A new underwater attraction in Dubai, inspired by Pirates of the Caribbean, aims to attract scuba diving and snorkelling tourists. Designed by the art team behind the Hollywood production Avatar and the five Pirates of the Caribbean features, the Pearl of Dubai is set to open soon and promises to offer an adventurefilled and Hollywood-style real life experience.
DREAMSTIME
89 Aquaventure
If the regular water park has become just too plain Jane for you, then head over to Aquaventure at the Atlantis where you can swim near or take rides over shark-infested
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MIDDLE EAST
CLOCKWISE:
Adventure and activity by Abercrombie and Kent Vacations; Atlantis the Palm starts the DIVE programme; the world’s faster roller coaster at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi.
93 Fencing
For those fascinated by the sport of fencing, especially after watching Madonna as an instructor in the Bond film Die Another Day, here’s a chance to take a few lessons. The Qatar Fencing Club offers tuition and guidance and even supplies equipment for beginners.
94 Sand dune
bashing and camping
Though sand dune bashing has been around for some time in Dubai, it is the newer destinations of Qatar and other places in the UAE that are gaining much popularity for the stomach-dropping and heart-pumping action they provide. Add camping in the desert to the mix and your Middle Eastern experience is bound to be exquisite.
95 Dreamland
Touted as the largest water park in Umm Al Quwain, the Dreamland Aqua Park is a treat for the entire family but more so for children. Set amidst lush green landscaped gardens along the coastline, its many gravity-defying and adrenaline-pumping rides are highly recommended by the brave hearted. To make it more fun, you can camp overnight here with friends or family.
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96 Kayaking
Forget the open seas; head inland in Abu Dhabi along the thick mangroves in the Eastern Mangroves Lagoon National Park and kayak along silently to witness the unique eco-system, the various species of birds and fish and the mysterious dark trees with twisted roots that make an intriguing pattern.
97 Wildlife Watching
As one of Abu Dhabi largest natural islands, Sir Bani Yas Island is the core component of the planned Desert Islands multi-experiential destination 240 km west of the UAE Capital. The island is home to one of Arabia’s largest wildlife reserves—the Arabian Wildlife park – which has more than 10,000 animals including gazelles, giraffes, hyenas and cheetahs. Guests can take 4x4 nature and Wildlife Drives of the park in specially-made vehicles accompanied by expert island staff.
98 Race Weekend
Yas Viceroy unveils a series of parties, concerts, sporting events, art exhibitions and food festivals with Viceroy Moments. Here, fast cars meet fashion, as Yas Viceroy will host poolside
parties and international club nights for stylish celebrations that go beyond the sport during the week of the Formula1 racing. The hotel’s rooftop bar will also be in on the action, allowing guests to enjoy post-race mingling whilst overlooking the stunning pool and soaking in views of Yas Marina.
99 An Active Experience If your idea of a perfect holiday is one jam-packed with activity, adventure and exhilaration, with different experiences to challenge mind and body each day, then the Abercrombie and Kent Vacations ‘Active Experience’ is just right for you. This 6-day Abu Dhabi package costing US$1,120 per person will take you to Yas Island, the Ferrari World, on a Sup Boat Expedition and a desert adventure.
100 Atlantis Dive
Atlantis the Palm has come up with the innovative Atlantis DIVE programme that will train you to dive into the largest openair aquarium in the Middle East and Africa—The Ambassador Lagoon. It allows you to dive alongside the majestic sea creatures, and marvel at ancient artefacts that are strategically placed in the aquarium.
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MUSICAL PERFORMANCE
The Arab League is announcing the emirate, Sharjah, as the Capital of Arab Tourism for 2015 and forthcoming celebrations include a wide array of art and cultural events and popular international musical performances and concerts at the Al Majaz Amphitheatre. These will include a thrilling performance by the highlyaccomplished Greek musician, Yanni, on November 6.
WITH INPUTS FROM SHIBANI BAWA AND ANITA RAO KASHI
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/ NOVEMBER 2015 / Creativity comes of age in Istanbul | The unspoiled grandeur of Chile’s Lake District
Halil Altindere (left) and the members of the rap group Tahribad-覺 襤syan on one of the domes of the Grand Bazaar.
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ISTANBUL HAS BEEN A CROSSROADS FOR CENTURIES. NOW THE FORCES OF MODERNITY— OF ART AND COMMERCE, GLOBALISM AND GENTRIFICATION—HAVE BROUGHT THE CITY TO ANOTHER TURNING POINT, AT ONE OF THE MOST COMPLICATED MOMENTS IN ITS HISTORY. THE
VIEW FROM HERE
PHOTO CREDIT
BY CARL SWANSON | PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM PARKER
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his summer, as Istanbul echoed with symphonic calls to prayer during Ramadan, the artist Halil Altindere invited me over for tea and Turkish delight in what he calls his “thinking studio,” a charming domed room located upstairs from the Grand Bazaar. The medieval hallways of his building are dimly lit and littered with discarded objects: his neighbours are the craftsmen and middlemen who provide the traditional tchotchkes sold in the bazaar downstairs. From its roof, the rambling, centuries-old building looks out over the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia (as we climbed the stairs to take in the view, Altindere told me to watch where I walked, lest I fall through the crumbling vaults). Altindere, who was born in 1971 and moved to Istanbul in 1996, is one of the most influential artists in the city. I had wanted to meet him ever since I’d seen his darkly antic short film—a music video, really—called Wonderland, at MoMA PS1 in New York. Shot in Istanbul, it features three impassioned young men who call themselves Tahribad-ı İsyan (Destruction Following Revolt). In the video they rhyme defiantly against gentrification while doing feckless battle with construction equipment (“My words are an avalanche that come down pouring....” read the English subtitles), encountering various gangsteresque B-movie archetypes, setting a security
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guard on fire, and posing atop a hulking ancient aqueduct that looks like a ruin from Game of Thrones. Altindere had sought them out after reading an interview with them in a newspaper. Wonderland, like Istanbul itself—a place half in Europe and half in Asia—was energetic, familiar, and a bit hard to decode, yet it demanded to be taken seriously, if for no other reason than that MoMA had thought the video important enough to add to its permanent collection. It is only recently that the city’s contemporary art scene has caught the world’s attention. “When I came to Istanbul, well, it was very conservative,” Altindere told me as we sat in his amazing cell of a room on groovy, mid-century modern–style furniture listening to scratchy old jazz recordings. “Art was about decoration.” But he and his friends, empowered in part by the communitybuilding powers of the Internet, began staging guerrilla performance pieces and started an art magazine called Art-ist in 1999. They invited people from outside the art world to tell them what was going wrong with Turkish art. “Many young artists read it and changed their minds,” he said. “And we made a revolution!” Now Istanbul is one of the landing points for the itinerant global art elite— curators, collectors, journalists, and hangers-on.
CLOCKWISE:
Locals drinking tea in Beyoğlu; a Karaköy detail; cocktail hour at Geyik Bar, in Cihangir; the interior of the new Soho House, in Beyoğlu.
They come especially for the Biennial (Wonderland was shown at the 2013 edition), a September event that is helping to legitimise many of the galleries popping up in the backstreets of Beyoğlu— places like Collectorspace, which shows only one work at a time, and Rodeo, which mounts politically charged group shows that mix Turkish and international artists. The two leading contemporary art spaces are Salt and Arter, each with a rotating and thoughtfully presented programme of often surprisingly edgy work, despite their locations on İstiklal Caddesi, the thronged thoroughfare that cuts through Beyoğlu and is lined with bars, fast-food restaurants, and the bright fast-fashion shops you see in cities around the world. On my visit to Salt, there were two works by the female Turkish artist Canan Şenol: a video of hanging breasts, one dripping milk, and what appeared to be an illustration out of an ancient, perhaps holy, text, of an erect penis and a gaping vagina. There was also, on the ground floor, a 15-foot-tall, threedimensional, walk-through installation representing the Bosporus Strait, with every inlet visible, which evoked the same oppressive and exalting sense of containment as one of Richard Serra’s Torqued Ellipses. “We’re in a new stage of Turkish art,” Altindere explained. “The meeting with the money. Compared with the American market or the European market, it’s very new.” He moved his studio to the unhip Bazaar area two years ago to try to get away from the centre of the art movement around İstiklal, and he told me that nearby Karaköy, where I was staying, was now “the hipster centre of the city,”
but that it hasn’t been that way for long. He shook his head, amused. That place is turning into Berlin, he said. I spent an afternoon in that neighbourhood with Erk Erkaya, a 28-year-old who runs a bespoke tour operation called Locally Istanbul. He used to live in New York City, and he looks very much like a creative, ambitious young Brooklyn guy. He took me to an outdoor café called Karabatak. “It’s very Paris, yes?” he said, as we were seated under a leafy canopy to protect us from the sun. Even though it was Ramadan, everyone around us—a mix of locals and foreigners—was drinking beer or wine. “Two and a half, three years ago, all these things were not here,” he explained. “In another three years, people will be saying, ‘Remember Karaköy, that lovely place? Oh, it’s too mainstream. People don’t go there anymore.’ ” Already, he said, many apartments in the area have become Airbnbs. “If you can,” he confided, “you should buy this whole building and turn it into a hotel. That was kind of my dream last year.” We walked through the neighbourhood, passing places on the way with chalkboard menus offering up burgers on cutting boards and a place with a sign informing you that brunch is available there. On the way up one of the steep cobblestoned side streets leading to the medieval Galata Tower and the headwaters of İstiklal, I spotted a shop called Aponia Store that displayed T-shirts with the words mainstream: no thanks and, beneath a drawing of two hands forming a cat’s cradle with Istanbul monuments stuck between the threads, istanbul: they call it chaos. we call it home. A few blocks away was a new Shake Shack.
ISTANBUL IS CHANGING,
but not all of it, and not into just one thing. There are co-existing, even competing, Istanbuls. In CLOCKWISE: a teeming, modern city Özge Ersoy, this old and layered, the programme there are always rival manager at Collectorspace; claims as to what its the Karabatak future should be, based coffee shop; Azra in part on which past Tüzünoğlu (left), founder of Pilot Istanbul chooses to base Gallery, with that future on. Ottoman? associate director Muslim? Secular? This Amira Arzik; Indian artist Prabhakar tension has become Pachpute with his especially apparent in work for the recent months. In recent Istanbul Biennial. elections this June, the long-time government, led by an ever-moreright-wing-leaning president, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, lost its majority hold on parliament, much to the relief of everyone I talked to. There had been rumours that the president, in the days leading up to the election, would say a prayer inside the Hagia Sophia— which became a secular museum in 1935—in solidarity with Islamist groups who want the building turned back into a mosque. His party’s defeat has also made many progressive people anxious about who, if not Erdoğan, would actually lead the country. Protests—over gentrification, against the
government, over the right to protest—have become a regular occurrence. And, of course, there is the threat of the Islamic State, festering ominously along the country’s border with Syria. Turkey is co-operating with the United States in fighting it, and doing so puts Turkey in a very vulnerable position. In August, shootings and a bombing terrorised the city. Yet there is conspicuously little sense of worry in the lively café and bar precincts of Beyoğlu, Cihangir, and Pera. Istanbul is a giddy, hustling, polyglot metropolis of more than 14 million—up from just one million in 1950—that has taken on a romantic, freewheeling reputation as the sort of place where there is room to make interesting things happen. As Altinder said, “The government doesn’t understand contemporary politics and art. So we are very free.” Some parts of town feel not unlike Berlin during the first decade and a half after the wall fell (cheap rents and all). And as a matter of fact, talking to Istanbul residents, I found that a number of people who might have lived in Berlin, or even did for a while, have settled in Istanbul instead. What’s significant now is that culturally ambitious Turks no longer feel the need to leave. “Now there are no diasporas,” Altindere told me. “It’s important that you live here and work here and make something for here.” You make your own Berlin. Or, as Özkan Cangüven, who now works for the Biennial after living in New York City for seven years, put it to me over espresso at one of the city’s recently ubiquitous European-style coffee bars, “Everything’s much more difficult than in New York. You know, like equal rights”—this year’s gay pride parade was shut down by
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police water cannons— “traffic, the pollution. But at the same time this is the thing that I feel I want and I like that challenge.” ART IS JUST ONE OF THE THINGS
that signify the swift pace of gentrification and globalisation in the city. Because where there is art—or an art market, to be
precise—there is money. And Istanbul’s growing wealth has done quite a lot to change not just the perception of Istanbul for many clued-in travellers but also the experience of the city itself. The number of high-end hotels that have opened in the past few years alone is staggering. Now scruffy, tattooed Karaköy and Cihangir are sprouting places of a glossier, more international character, like those you might find in Manhattan or Miami or London.
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The discerningly tasteful and efficient 10 Karaköy, from the Morgans Group, where I stayed, could be in any of those cities, right down to the dimmer switches. And when the Soho House group—those bellwethers of nextness— opened an outpost in the palazzo-like former American Consulate in Beyoğlu, it put the city squarely on the tastemaker’s map, and gave the strivers of modern Istanbul a glamorous new gathering place. On any given night, a cosmopolitan crowd packs the rooftop pool bar and the Mandolin Terrace restaurant (part of a budding mini-empire begun in Miami) while, occasionally, paparazzi wait outside to snap photos of whatever Turkish starlet darts from the hotel’s tiny, exclusive Embassy Club to her chauffeured SUV. You’ll spot the same crowd huddling around dimly lit tables of meze at Münferit, in Beyoğlu, or sipping cocktails at the hard-to-find no-name bar off İstiklal (those in the know call it Alex’s bar, after the bartender), or watching the sunset from the roof of the Vault hotel in Karaköy. “We are probably, in the eyes of people who come from farther east, and even for some of the people who live in Istanbul, a real anomaly,” Melih Fereli, who runs the Arter gallery, told me, referring to the city’s creative class. “But that’s the beauty of Istanbul—the mix. You’d be hard-pressed to really convince yourself that this is where Islamic culture prevails.” Arter is planning to open its own museum in 2017, financed by the Koç family, which owns Turkey’s largest conglomerate and is also a main supporter of the Biennial. (Altindere had said that “four or five rich families” make everything happen in the arts.) Fereli wants it to be
not just a place to look at precious things hung on the walls in frames but also a place where creators of all sorts can come together for the sake of something new, something, he said, that “enables us to experience things that we haven’t been able to experience before.” If the city’s embrace of Arter is any indication—Fereli said he had to exercise crowd control for exhibits by Marc Quinn and Patricia Piccinini— the iconoclastic approach will be an interesting development for Istanbul, where there is so much possibility in the notyet-defined. This is the upside of years of official neglect. For so long, he explained, Istanbul was a “cultural desert” and “the government just turned a blind eye to contemporary art.” People weren’t interested in what was considered, as Fereli put it, “crap—a bit of sound, a bit of light.” An early harbinger of change was the Istanbul Modern museum, where a sign by the front security gate designates an area, in English: a space for the young public. It’s savvy marketing, considering how young the city is demographically: 47 per cent are under age 30. And the goal for the museum, which is near Karaköy in a former customs warehouse along the harbour, is to make a claim on the city’s future, despite the churn of the present. Over coffee on the terrace of the restaurant, one of the museum’s curators, Çelenk Bafra, explained that she was planning to have an event series in collaboration with MoMA PS1 featuring yoga, film screenings, art stations, concerts, and performances, to better engage the community. Last year, the Modern hosted around 6,50,000 visitors—a tiny figure in a city this size. But, she said, the audience is up to
60 per cent locals in the winter, and it’s very young— “maybe sixty-five per cent is under twenty-five.” We sat looking across the water to the old city and its enchanting domes, walls, and minarets. Sometimes, Bafra said, the view is blocked by the line of mammoth cruise ships that dock along the concrete wharf outside. The formerly industrial area is slated for wholesale re-development so it can cater to the thousands of tourists who arrive by cruise ship. And across the Bosporus, on the Asian side of the city, you could practically watch Kadıköy, which is now reachable by subway and is packed with cool bars, busily preparing itself to become the next hot neighbourhood. Near the end of my trip, Altindere invited me to meet Tahribad-ı İsyan, the rap group in his video, at Co-Pilot, one of the galleries run by his wife, Azra Tüzünoğlu. The young men arrived in jeans and sneakers, a bit lightheaded because they were fasting for Ramadan. One had on a baseball cap that read, in English, brooklyn still goes hard. Altindere had a present for them: ropy fakegold chains, which they immediately put on andposed for pictures in. Speaking over one another while one of the gallery employees translated, they told me that originally they were attracted to the sound of American hip-hop and the luxuries it often depicted: “Money, money, money,” they said. But they became radicalised when the government started developing their neighbourhood, Sulukule, home to a large community of Roma people for centuries. The young rappers are Roma, and their family homes were destroyed. A local activist told them that “rap music was also protest music,” so they
switched from “singing about this dream of non-existent riches” to singing about real issues. Which is when people began paying attention to them—now the group has a record deal with a major Turkish label. The three friends, all between the ages of 20 and 22, are preparing to be famous, which is exciting, though they pointed out that they’re not that famous, since they can still take the subway. Just then one of them lifted his shirt to show me his tattoos, which tell the story of the destruction of their neighbourhood, complete with backhoes and burnedout buildings. Altindere called my attention to three rosebuds, interlinked with barbed wire. To the young men, the roses represent themselves—but also more than that: the blossoming potential of the city itself.
Sinan Aksu, a tattoo designer. OPPOSITE: Black couscous and calamari at Münferit.
THE DETAILS HOTELS Soho House Istanbul A boutique hotel and private club occupying the former US embassy and consulate. (Hotel guests have access to the club, normally closed to non-members.) The restaurants, rooftop pool, and speakeasy-style Embassy Club draw a who’s who of the city. Beyoğlu; soho house istanbul.com; doubles from US$220. 10 Karaköy, a Morgans Original This 1875 Neoclassical building recently received a glossy makeover courtesy of Turkish architect Sinan Kafadar. Karaköy; morganshotelgroup. com; doubles from US$163. Vault Karaköy, the House Hotel A 63-room property in a former bank, with an art curator and exhibition space, plus unrivaled rooftop views. Karaköy; thehousehotel.com; doubles from US$145. More Options Many blue-chip international brands have properties in Istanbul, including Four Seasons, Raffles, and Ritz-Carlton. RESTAURANTS & BARS Alex’s Bar At his namesake hideaway, also known as the ‘No Name Bar,’ American expat Alex Waldman serves bespoke cocktails. 7b Gönül Sk, Beyoğlu. Karabatak A stylish café in an abandoned metal workshop. Karaköy; karabatak.com; entrées US$3–US$14.
Münferit Sceney restaurant serving creative Mediterranean cuisine. Beyoğlu; mun ferit.com.tr; entrées US$12–US$16. MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Arter Leading contemporary art space opening its own museum in 2017. Beyoğlu; arter.org.tr Collectorspace A non-profit gallery that displays a single piece of artwork at a time, from private collections. Beyoğlu; collectorspace.org Istanbul Modern Groundbreaking institution in a former customs warehouse that features works by prominent Turkish and international artists. Karaköy; istanbulmodern.org Pilot and Co-Pilot Adjacent galleries that host exhibits, screenings, and performances by emerging Turkish artists. Beyoğlu; pilotgaleri.com Rodeo A small gallery known for its avant-garde group shows. Beyoğlu; rodeo-gallery.com Salt Sleek, well-run art centre with two locations in Beyoğlu. saltonline.org TOUR GUIDE Locally Istanbul A bespoke tour company led by plugged-in Turks Erk Erkaya and Ümit Aggül, who offer clients access to the city’s hippest destinations for fashion and art. locallyistanbul.com
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LAKE
In Chile’s Lake District, pristine wilderness, crystal-clear rivers, traditional artisans, and luxurious lodges reveal themselves in splendour—and, for Joyce Maynard, offer a fortifying renewal of spirit. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTYN THOMPSON
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Sheep from one of the ranches that blanket the Lake District. OPPOSITE: A view of the Liucura River from Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira.
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“ORION’S UPSIDE DOWN,” I told my husband. Fifteen hours of airplane travel had landed us at Lake Villarrica in Pucón, Chile; I was lying flat on a wooden dock, staring into the darkness with Jim at my side, no sound but the water lapping at the rocks by our feet. The Big Dipper was nowhere to be seen (wrong hemisphere), but thanks to the lack of ambient light, there were more stars visible overhead than I even knew existed. Not only were the Southern Cross and Sagittarius thrillingly clear and bright, but for the first time in his many decades of studying the night sky, Jim had just spotted something called a Magellanic Cloud—a whole other galaxy beyond the Milky Way. A thought came to me: If one function of travel is to offer an entirely new perspective on our world, it had served its purpose here. For some people, the vastness of the galaxy and the knowledge of how fleeting our time is on this planet—how fleeting our planet’s time is, even—might be a source of sadness, but to me it was a comfort. Nothing in life seems quite as huge or life-shattering when you’re looking up at a Magellanic Cloud. Back to Pucón—part of a region of Chile known as the Lake District. To North Americans, at least, the Lake District is a lesser-known region of this long, narrow country of gloriously diverse landscapes. This is not the Chile of penguins and glaciers, as in Patagonia, or the vast desert of Atacama, or the weirdly haunting stone faces of Easter Island. And yet there’s more to the Lake District than lakes. It is a vast, unspoiled wilderness surrounded by mountains, including the Andes. There are rivers so clear you can practically count the gills on the fish. And about those fish: at that very moment, one leapt out of the water, breaking the silence. But just barely, and just for a moment. Then stillness returned. For now anyway. Let’s not forget the volcanoes. One of which—Villarrica—had been steadily emitting dark, ominous clouds of smoke from its crater ever since we arrived here, three days earlier. In the village of Pucón, residents were uneasy, remembering stories from the last big
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eruption in 1984. But from the edge of this dock where Jim and I came to watch the stars, and from our room at the historic Antumalal, perched high on the rocks overlooking the lake, we could observe the drama without the danger of close encounters with molten lava. We made this trip to Chile at a challenging moment in our lives. Four months earlier, my 62-year-old husband had been diagnosed with pancreatic cancer, and since then, he’d been undergoing what may well be the roughest chemotherapy cocktail ever cooked up, in hopes that it would shrink the tumour to the point where it could become operable. The cancer and its treatment had taken 25 pounds off Jim, and left him with a long list of symptoms he seldom complained about, though the effects were clear. My active, hiking, mountain-biking husband had become very thin, and more tired than usual, though in no way defeated. We did not view this trip as some final hurrah. For us, it served as a way of storing up our energy for the next round of treatment, and giving ourselves a reminder (in case we needed one) of all the experiences still ahead of us, if Jim could just get through this one. Chemotherapy is one form of medicine. But a great trip, in my opinion, can be another.
WE TOUCHED DOWN in the capital of
Santiago just long enough for an evening lesson in Chilean cooking, a quick ride up the funicular, and a visit to Pablo Neruda’s house, before boarding an hour-long flight that brought us to Temuco, a small city that serves as the gateway to the Lake District and is a couple of hours by car from Antumalal. The hotel opened its doors to guests in 1950. And though it has been renovated over the decades— the pool improved, the gardens expanded—the year could be 1958. Every detail of the original groundbreaking, Bauhaus-inspired design, from the Midcentury furnishings to the soaring stone fireplace, has been preserved. Other than the sight of a few iPhones, nothing would look different
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Vira Vira’s turkeys;
Llaima volcano, one of several in the region; in the lounge of Antumalal; a waterfall at Antumalal.
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Rodolfo Coombs at his stable, near Vira Vira.
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from how it was when Jimmy Stewart, Adlai Stevenson, Barry Goldwater, and a young Queen Elizabeth came here to fish. The original owners, Guillermo and Catalina Pollak, are dead now, but the place has remained in the stewardship of their daughter Rony (now age 65) and her son, Andrew, who picked us up at the airport in Temuco. On the drive to Pucón, Andrew told us the hotel’s story. In 1939, Guillermo and Catalina were newly married, still in their twenties, when they made the decision to emigrate here from their native Czechoslovakia, where (along with thousands of other European émigrés to South America) they fled the specter of Nazism. They landed with no money and not a word of Spanish. Some people might have seen this as a kind of exile, but photographs of the Pollaks, taken the day they left Prague, make it clear that for them, the prospect of making a new home in South America was a grand adventure. They travelled around for a while before settling on this part of Chile as the place that offered the most possibilities for a life of hiking, skiing, fishing, and unbridled opportunity. For nearly a decade the couple worked around Pucón, taking odd jobs, running a ski resort that eventually burned down. In the late 1940s, despite limited resources, they managed to buy a piece of spectacular property on the shores of Lake Villarrica. The price was low because with no waterlines to the high rock promontory overlooking the lake and volcano, building seemed impossible, and anyway, there was little tourist industry in the area at the time. One day in 1948, the president of Chile stopped by a teahouse the Pollaks had built on the property, and Guillermo persuaded him to approve a government loan of US$5,000 to build a hotel, making the case that the area would one day serve as an important centre for Chilean tourism. With that money, the Pollaks hired a Chilean architect, Jorge Elton, and built a radically modern 20-room hotel. Sixty-five years later, the design appears no less iconic. In a world of infinity pools and Jacuzzis, the style of Antumalal stands out as refreshingly simple: stark, clean lines; wide, smooth boards of monkey pine; handwoven textiles and muted colours; glass walls angling out like the prow of
a boat, to maximize views of the lake and volcano. Imagine going to sleep at night in Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater, and you’ll have an idea of what makes a stay at Antumalal such a powerful experience. Out on the deck beyond the dining room, watching the sunset one evening, I tried to imagine how it could have happened that a young and virtually penniless couple unschooled in Spanish, let alone architecture and construction, could have made this bold design choice. If I were in need of examples of couples triumphing in the face of big challenges, I didn’t have to look further than the story of Guillermo and Catalina. For guests who choose to explore the area, the staff will arrange outings—boat trips, or fishing, an expedition to the thermal pools, or (when it’s not erupting) the volcano. It’s also an easy walk from the hotel to Pucón, where you can shop for azurite jewellery (a specialty of the region) or sample kuchen and fine Swiss chocolate. We paid a visit to a weaver who makes gorgeous rugs from natural, hand-dyed yarn—and after navigating Jim’s and my different colour preferences, we ordered one, custom-made, to be shipped to us. But you don’t come to the Lake District primarily for shopping or cuisine. You come for the natural beauty of the place, and the wildness of a largely undeveloped landscape. Here at Antumalal we discovered that it was not only the night sky that got turned upside down for us, but the perspective from which we viewed life on the ground, too. Residents of Pucón live next to a volcano that could blow anytime, but they carry on with their lives in the meantime, as Jim and I found ourselves able to do, too—slowing down the pace of our days, taking note of everything. We observed the spectacle of a tree filled entirely with parrots. I went for late-night swims in the lake. We drank a glass of good Chilean wine every night while watching the final minutes of sunset. The dinner menu didn’t appear to change much, but we didn’t mind. I could eat Lake Villarrica trout three nights in a row. And I did.
FROM ANTUMALAL, Jim and I made the 20-minute trip to the Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira, set at the edge of the Liucura River, whose waters ran right alongside the door to our airy T R AV E L + L E I S U R E / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5
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room, with its outdoor bath and a view of open fields and grazing horses as well as an astonishingly diverse population of birds. Like Antumalal, Vira Vira is a family-run hotel, but this one opened its doors only months ago. It’s the creation of Michael Paravicini, a Swiss-born businessman who first visited the region and fell in love with it when he was 15 years old. Paravicini spared no expense in realising his vision. In addition to the hotel, Vira Vira houses a substantial organic farming operation that supplies the majority of the greens and vegetables used by the restaurant, as well as a flour mill, beehives, flocks of chickens and ducks, and even wild boar, as well as a state-ofthe-art cheese-making facility, all open to guests. Whereas a stay at Antumalal inspires lounging, Vira Vira calls its guests to venture forth and explore. The hotel has on its staff a whole team of specialists in a wide range of adventures: guides knowledgeable in fly-fishing and horseback riding, drivers ready to bring guests to the remote areas inhabited by the region’s indigenous people, the Mapuche, and— in the winter months—guides for ski trips on the volcano and sled dog excursions. We decided to take off in a boat manned by a guide named Mario, who has fished this stretch of river since he was a child and knows every bend and, more important, every spot in the river where the trout and salmon are likely to bite. Not much of a fishing aficionado myself, I went along on this one mostly for the sake of Jim, a flyfisherman. But 15 minutes into our journey down the river, when I felt a tug on my line, my heart started beating wildly, and I was suddenly consumed with a fierce and unfamiliar compulsion to reel in my catch. The salmon at the end of my line turned out to be a good-size fish, at least 18 pounds, we figured, though we had only seconds to evaluate this. At the very moment Jim clicked the shutter on his camera, my fish leaped out of my arms and back into the river. It didn’t even matter that I’d planned on following the catch-and-release protocol. I felt bereft at the loss of him. For the first time in my life, I understood the poignancy of the phrase, “the one that got away.”
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After a hike the next day, Jim and our guide and I stopped for a meal at a place a person might never know to stop, if not in the company of a local—a traditional Mapuche restaurant run by a woman named Anita. She wore a bandanna over her black hair as she served up an array of selections seasoned with spices we’d never encountered: mudai, a drink made with corn, a bowl of roasted pinyon nuts from the monkey pine tree, a salsa called pebre, and some particularly delicious cochayuyo, a species of kelp popular in Chilean indigenous cooking. The spice used in many of these dishes, merken, imparts a rich, nutty flavour—it’s not hot, like a lot of Latin American fare is. I could not come up with a single North American dish that resembled in any way what we were served that afternoon—foods I could imagine having been served around a fire, hundreds of years earlier. Though neither of us is an expert rider, it became a goal for me to ride into the mountains—not as high as the group of Brazilian equestrians who were staying at the hotel, maybe, but I wanted to take in the breathtaking countryside from the back of a horse. Our guide, Patricio, brought us to a nearby stable and saddled up a pair of finelooking steeds. This was not a standard trail ride, the kind that takes a person—clippetyclop—along a featureless, well-trod path. Our Lake District horses and guide took us up into the foothills of the Andes, through terrain so dazzling and devoid of any signs of other humans that I imagined I was a cowgirl, out on the range, reaching my hand into the brush now and then for a handful of the best blackberries I’ve ever tasted. Even when we climbed steeply, our horses betrayed no sign of unease, and because of that, neither did I. Emboldened, we inquired about a hike we’d heard Patricio describe to a peak called San Sebastián. The guides warned us it would be a tough one—starting at 6,000 feet and climbing to 12, with stretches of rough terrain along the way—but also, some of the most spectacular vistas in all of the Lake District, or beyond. From the top of San Sebastian, Patricio told us, you can see four volcanoes and five lakes, and past that, Argentina.
The dining room at Vira Vira; the kitchen sources ingredients from the property’s organic farm.
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An intricately carved traditional Chilean stirrup.
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Even Michael Paravicini himself had not yet tackled this one, they told us. As for who had: Well, said the guide. “Sólo para los valientes.” Only for the brave. I looked at Jim—10 days into his fifth cycle of chemotherapy, 120 pounds, last we checked, though I think Vira Vira and Antumalal had put a few more on him. “We’re doing this,” he said. So we did. We expected the hike to be spectacular, but nothing prepared us for the forest of soaring virgin monkey pine we encountered a few hours up the trail, or the craggy spires of rock beyond it, where even in Chile’s late summer some remnants of last winter’s snow remained. And still we climbed. He didn’t say anything, but I knew Jim was growing weary. So was I. We took small steps, one foot in front of the other, and at one point there was no way to climb but on all fours, grasping at roots and branches, scrabbling in the dirt as we ascended. But we didn’t stop. We were six hours into our journey when we reached the summit, and I was more exhausted than I have ever been. Knowing how long the trek back would be, we couldn’t linger long at the top, but there was no way to leave this place without recording our conquest. Patricio had us stand at the edge of a high boulder beside a drop-off that plunged straight into an abyss. “Don’t look down,” Jim said to me. I’d spent the week marveling at the night sky and the stars, but here at the summit of San Sebastián, the view seemed as endless as the heavens: distant peaks, sky, clouds, lakes stretching all the way to Argentina. It was not a melancholy thought, but rather an oddly comforting one, to know how small the two of us were in the scale of these mountains. All my life there have been certain moments when I stopped and told myself “remember this.” Now, dusty and aching, drenched with sweat, with Jim’s arms around me, standing over the abyss—a spot both terrifying and glorious, where if you took three steps back you’d be at the bottom of a crevasse—was one such time. “I will think back to this day when a very hard day comes,” I told myself.
We made it to the top of San Sebastián. What could seem impossible after that?
IT WAS DARK when we got back to Vira Vira.
We staggered up to the bar for our usual pisco sours, then dinner. Lamb chops, cooked exactly right. Wine from the Carmenère vines. No meal ever tasted better. Next morning, early, we made the two-hour journey back to the airport in Temuco, and from there, back home. Five days later we were in the office of Jim’s surgeon in Boston, listening to the report on his CT scan. The tumor had shrunk by 50 percent. Surgery was now possible. We didn’t need him to remind us it would be tough and very painful, with a long recuperation. What would happen after that, impossible to say. As with all the best trips, you never fully know what’s going to happen until you get there, and when you do, there’s always the next stop along the way.
THE DETAILS GETTING THERE A number of international carriers have nonstop service from New York and Miami to Santiago. From there, LAN and Sky Airline offer daily, 80- minute flights to Temuco Airport. The hotels can arrange a private transfer for the 90- minute drive to Pucón, the main town in the area. Or rent a car for wider exploration of the Lake District. HOTELS Hacienda Hotel Vira Vira A recently opened, family-run resort overlooking the Liucura River that features an on-site organic farm, flour mill, and cheese-making facility that guests can tour. hotelviravira. com; doubles from US$550, all-inclusive. Hotel Antumalal This 20-room design triumph on Lake Villarrica opened in the 1950s and has welcomed such guests as Queen Elizabeth and Barry Goldwater. It looks no less modern today. antumalal. com; doubles from US$250. ACTIVITIES Shopping Pucón and its surrounding area have a number of small shops to visit, including specialty jewellery stores, a chocolatier, and a studio that sells one-of-a-kind rugs made from natural, hand-dyed yarn by local weaver Juanita Becerra, in Curarrehue. Termas Geométricas Two hours south of Pucón by car, this natural hot springs complex with labyrinthine wooden walkways offers nature hikes and 17 covered thermal baths that are open year-round. termasgeometricas.cl; US$29 entrance fee.
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wish you were here...
Floyd Menezes / Photographer / LISBON Lisbon is
a beautiful city with multiple narrow streets lacing the intricate cityscape. This sight caught my attention as it encapsulated the hidden beauty of the city. In this image, the view is complimented by framing, composition, and visual movement. Everything from the stone street to the red spray-painted arrow lead the viewer’s eye to the subject saying “Hello tram # 28... I’ll be right behind you!”
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VISAKHAPATNAM ANDHRA PRADESH
ARAKU VALLEY
COFFEE CAVES WATERFALLS
DESTINATION
VIZAG BEACHES
TEMPLES
HOTELS
A FOODIE'S
TOUR GREAT
FAMILY GETAWAYS
CONTENTS
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Making Waves
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A Journey in Reverence
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Visakhapatnam has a dramatic coastline with a 25-km stretch of clean beaches. Visakhapatnam is of a significant spiritual interest particularly with its impressive temple trail that's over 2,000 years old.
10 Things to do With Family
If you’re visiting Visakhapatnam with your brood, these experiences must definitely feature on your itinerary.
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Fresh from the Port
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Along for a Ride
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Days of Fun
Old markets, glitzy malls, and emporiums selling traditional handicraft items—Visakhapatnam has all this and more. Challenge yourself with these sports that will keep you up and running. A kaleidoscope of colours, Visakhapatnam is a treat for all senses especially during festivals. Plan your trip around these special occasions.
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From the Port to the Hills
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Modern Comforts
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Secrets of the East Coast
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Map of Connectivity
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Local Flavours
In the hills of the Eastern Ghats, Araku Valley is a perfect weekend getaway.
Unfold the chapters of history of this small fishing village. From newly opened restaurants to legendary local eateries, this is your guide to what’s cooking in Visakhapatnam, and where.
Whether you’re in Vizag for business or on a holiday, luxury hotels in the city will make your stay pleasurable. Vizag is connected to major cities in India as well as many international destinations.
COVER PHOTOGR APH BY K AR AN TAKULIA
Introduction
PORT OF POSSIBILITIES
W
ith the Bay of Bengal on one side and the Eastern Ghats on the other, Visakhapatnam is aptly called ‘The Jewel of the East Coast’. Discover this coastal paradise where historic sites draw tourists in, where tribes welcome travellers with open arms, where simple local food is a palate-pleaser, and where traditional arts and crafts still thrive. Once a small fishing village, Visakhapatnam is now one of the fastest growing cities in India thanks to the steel, fishing, pharmaceutical, and IT industries that have been set up here. Additionally, the city also serves as the headquarters of the Eastern Naval Command. However, even after the industrial and economic progress, Vizag has dutifully preserved its natural heritage. The city has a dramatic coastline with sandy beaches extending far and beyond the eyes can see. Meanwhile, the verdant hills of the Eastern Ghats make a complete different landscape when you look the other way. For travellers, the sites of Buddhist heritage, natural wonders, magnificent temples, beautiful parks, and laidback lifestyle of Visakhapatnam are most exciting. Whether looking for a sea adventure or a peaceful escape to the hills—Vizag is an ideal place for a holiday.
GENERAL INFORMATION
KARAN TAKULIA
Climate: Tropical. May is the hottest month while January is the coolest What to Wear: Light cottons in summers and woollens in winters Best Time to Visit: November to February Languages Spoken: Telugu, Hindi, English
Sun and Sand
MAKING WAVES
RUSHIKONDA BEACH
RK BEACH
DOLPHIN’S NOSE
Drive along the coast on smooth roads to reach the Rushikonda Beach, known to be the prettiest of them all. Located eight kms from Vizag, this virgin beach is serene and tranquil, with colourful cottages facing the sea. You can easily spend an evening on this white sand beach, looking at the horizon from the hill that protects the beach and watching the sky change colours. Or, you can go boating here (available from 9 am – 5.30 pm). However, there is caution against swimming or water sports since tides are unpredictable and dangerous here. Do visit the beachfront Sarva Rusheeswara Temple that enthralls people with its legends about the Sapta Rushis from the Hindu mythology.
The Ramakrishna Mission Beach, or RK Beach as it’s commonly known, gets its name from the nearby Ramakrishna Mission Asharam. This is the favourite haunt of locals: Every morning, people gather on Beach Road, while traffic is debarred, and exercise along the stretch. In the evenings, families, kids, and elderly couples come here to watch the sunset. A line of statues of famous personalities are quite fascinating. Moreover, Asia’s only submarine museum is also located on the beach, and many parks, Visakha Museum and Victory At Sea war memorial are a stone’s throw away. Dotted by sea-front restaurants as well as street vendors, the RK Beach is the best place for a quiet evening sojourn.
A trip to the city is incomplete without visiting the famous Dolphin’s Nose. Guarding the port of Vizag, this natural rock land formation resembling a dolphin’s nose is 174 metres high and is perched 358 metres above the sea. The view of the city from here is picture perfect, and the lighthouse is significant to the city since it guides ships safely to the port.
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BHEEMILI BEACH Situated 45 minutes from Vizag, the coastal town of Bheemunipatnam is the second oldest municipality in the country. Tourists often find their way to this sleepy town to see its Dutch Cemetery, an ancient clock tower, the Erramattidibbalu (red sand formations)
KARAN TAKULIA (2). BELOW RIGHT: COURTESY OF ANDHRA PRADESH TOURISM
Visakhapatnam has a dramatic coastline with a 25-km stretch of clean beaches. Buzzy and bustling or romantic and peaceful—these are the favourite spots of locals as well as tourists.
Clockwise: View of the long stretch of RK Beach as seen from Kailasagiri Hill; people enjoying their evening by the bay; Bheemili Beach.
and most importantly, its Bheemili Beach and lighthouse. You can take a dip in the calm waters—it’s perfectly safe—or watch the scene unfold from a sea-view porch.
YARADA BEACH Often missed by tourists visiting Visakhapatnam, Yarada Beach is a half hour’s drive from the city. Surrounded by the hills, it is almost like a private beach. Laze around on the golden sand with your picnic basket in tow and spend a day doing nothing—the laidback air of this beach is perfect for couples.
DOTTED BY SEA-FRONT RESTAURANTS, RAMAKRISHNA MISSION BEACH IS THE BEST PLACE FOR A QUIET EVENING SOJOURN LAWSON'S BAY BEACH
GANGAVARAM BEACH
Also known as the Pedawaltair Beach, Lawson’s Bay Beach meets you enroute to Kailasagiri Hill, ahead of the famed Ramakrishna Mission Beach. It is relatively less popular than the latter but people always find it refreshing to sit peacefully by the shore and gaze at the ships passing by.
Some 26 kms south of Vizag, Gangavaram Beach near the Visakhapatnam Steel Plant is a popular filming spot for movies and television series, and rightfully so. Lie in the shadow of the cover provided by palm trees, and visit the Krishna Temple while you’re here. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Pilgrimage
From left: Façade of the Bojjannakonda monastery; stupa inside a small cave at Sankaram.
A JOURNEY IN REVERENCE
Visakhapatnam is of a significant spiritual interest particularly with its impressive temple trail that's over 2,000 years old.
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The Northern Coast of Andhra was an important Buddhist centre in the era of Emperor Ashoka. In Vizag, one can travel back in time and discover the historic Buddhist sites. The Thotlakonda Buddhist Complex is one of the first names that comes up when talking about Buddhist sites in Vizag. Perched on a hill on the way to Bheemili town, this Buddhist site is a must-visit attraction not only for Buddhists but for people from all faiths—the stupas, chaityas, pillared halls, and viharas never fail to make an impression. Another significant site on the way to Bheemili is Bavikonda. This Buddhist complex amazes visitors with its 26 structures belonging to three phases of Buddhism and an urn consisting of bone that’s believed to be of Buddha himself. It’s interesting to know that Bavikonda means ‘a hill of wells’ in Telugu. On a hillock west of Bheemili, 16 rock-cut troughs are carved into the bed rock to collect water in Pavuralakonda—a fine example of rain water harvesting from the second century. Away from the city is a peaceful village Sankaram, where two hills in the middle of paddy fields are another legacy of Ashoka's foray into Buddhism in India. Climb a flight of stairs to Bojjannakonda, the eastern hill, and a rock-cut cave with a statue of Buddha on the façade will welcome you. The main cave has 16 pillars and a monolithic stupa and more stupas and a dome are
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BUDDHIST SITES
located on the uppermost level. The hill on the west side, Lingalakonda, also has rock-cut monolithic stupas, and it is believed that Buddhist monks used to worship on the hill 2,000 years ago. You must also visit Gopalapatnam, to see some stunning examples of Buddhist stupas, viharas, and relics.
BOTTOM: DREAMSTIME
TEMPLE TRAIL The most revered temple in the city is the Simhachalam Temple, located 16 kms from Vizag. Dedicated to Lord Sri Varaha Lakshminarasimha Swamy (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu), this 11thcentury shrine in the Simhachalam hill is an architectural gem with a 16-pillar natya mantapa and a 96-pillar kalyana mantapa. The lion-man deity is covered in a thick paste of sandalwood all through the year but once a year on Chandana Visarjana, this paste is removed and the tribhanga posture of the deity can be seen. Another one-of-a-kind temple is the Devipuram Complex, the only Sri Chakra temple in the world. The threedimensional Sahasrakshi Meru Temple
Clockwise: The Simhachalam Temple; Mary Matha Church on Ross Hill; statues of Shiva and Parvati on Kailasagiri Hill.
has more than 100 statues of devi, portraying the goddess in nude forms— thus making it an unconventional temple. The Someswara Temple in Appikonda, situated 18 kms from Vizag, is dedicated to Lord Shiva and features a life-size bull, carved out of black stone. The best time to visit is on Shivaratri when celebrations are in full swing. You will find exquisite carvings on the pillars of the mandaps in Panchadharala temple, located 24 kms from Anakapalli. While you’re in the city, you will discover many beautiful temples that will draw your attention—one such place of worship is the Ramakrishna Mission Ashrama that gave RK Beach its name. Drive up to Kailasagiri Hill and you will be met with a gigantic statue of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati sitting atop the hill.
CHURCHES Named after a judge, Ross Hill is a confluence of three religions. A church, a mosque, and a temple are lined up on this hill—telling the tale of the city's cultural harmony and religious tolerance. Built in 1904, the white structure atop the hill, Mary Matha Church is a glorious sight for those who visit the port city. A little away from the city, the coastal town of Bheemunipatnam is blessed with a beautiful beach, but there is one more attraction here that deserves a mention. The St Peters Church, constructed in 1864 by the Dutch, is a historic landmark with a true gothic design. The painstakingly designed stained glass— that depicts Christ’s baptism, breaking of bread, and crucifixion—amazes visitors with its details and colours. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Family Fun
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THINGS TO DO WITH FAMILY If you’re visiting Visakhapatnam with your brood, these experiences must definitely feature on your itinerary.
1PARK INDIRA GANDHI ZOOLOGICAL
2MUSEUM INS KURSURA SUBMARINE
Step inside a real submarine park stationed on the sand of RK Beach. Built in Russia in 1969, INS Kursura 8
TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
Tenneti Park; boats at the Fishing Harbour.
was turned into a museum in 2001 when it retired after 31 years of service. Today, it offers an exciting experience to visitors who learn about the working mechanism of a submarine and life on board. This is the first submarine museum in India, and the second in the world.
3 VUDA PARK
Also known as the Taraka Rama Park, it is a recreational centre of Vizag, especially popular for its skating rink, kids’ playpen, and well-manicured gardens. You can also take your kids horse riding and boating in this park. However, the best time to visit is definitely in the evening when
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Follow the trail that animals leave behind at this 625-acre zoological park on the National Highway. Around 700 animals belonging to 89 species have found their natural habitats here. For children, there is also a toy train, deer safari, monkey enclosures, and numerous viewpoints. Many families come here for picnics with the aim to spot resident tigers, elephants, deer, and bears.
the musical fountain dances under the glow of the setting sun.
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TENNETI PARK This park is named after freedom fighter and leader Tenneti Viswanadham. Situated on the foothills of Kailasagiri, this manicured green park overlooks the beach, and is an ideal spot for ice cream in the evening.
5 KAILASAGIRI HILL
One of the highlights of Visakhapatnam for kids is the Kailasagiri Hill. Take the ropeway to the hill and enjoy panoramic views of the city and its gorgeous beaches. Up on the hill, there’s a big statue of Shiva and Parvati that will welcome you. Kids will have a merry time horse riding, playing in the children’s park, and going around in the small train. Moreover, there are also jungle trails, souvenirs shops, and viewpoints here.
6 VISAKHA MUSEUM
The museum has two sections: Maritime and Heritage. In the Maritime Museum, you will find naval treasures including reflectors, missiles, flags, naval uniform,
radars, models of ships, photographs, and anchors. A statue of Veena, the God of Sea, is also exhibited here. Move on to the Heritage wing which has life-like figures of people, paintings, currencies and coins, manuscripts, antique palanquins, earthen pots, first TV set of Vizag, and antique love seats.
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FISHING HARBOUR The port city has a major fishing industry, and the fishing harbour is one of the busiest amongst the three in Visakhapatnam. It’s fascinating to witness fishermen and women at work. You can also go boating here.
9 MATSYADARSHINI AQUARIUM
Get acquainted with the underwater creatures at this aquarium on RK Beach. A variety of marine creatures are found in more than 20 tanks including stone fish, porcupine fish, starfish, lion fish, and butterfly fish. Don’t forget to buy a pretty sea shell from the souvenir shop.
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MUDASARLOVA PARK Plan a picnic to the oldest park of Vizag, built during British rule. Located next to the Mudasarlova Reservoir, it offers a relaxing atmosphere with a lake and hills around it.
8 KAMBALAKONDA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Around 25 kms from Vizag, this wildlife sanctuary is home to rare species of animals, birds, and plants. Kids with an interest in nature will particularly enjoy the trek of four and a half kilometres and boating in the reservoir. Stay for a night in a cottage to explore more of the nature and wildlife here. Clockwise: The ropeway that takes visitors to Kailasagiri Hill; Visakha Museum; a park in Vizag where you can take your family for a picnic.
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Top Views Borra Caves in Araku Valley.
In the hills of the Eastern Ghats, Araku Valley is a perfect weekend getaway. Here’s everything you can do in this hill station and more.
KARAN TAKULIA
FROM THE PORT TO THE HILLS
P
eppered with coffee plantations and glittering waterfalls, the verdant expanse of Araku Valley is a delight to visitors. Whether you choose to drive here or take the train (it's 120 kms from Visakhapatnam), the gushing of streams and fragrance of herbs and coffee plantation will keep you company during the journey. There are 19 ancient tribes that reside here and fascinate travellers with their time-honoured lifestyle. Moreover, the colourful Dhimsa dance is a major draw for tourists. Men and women of Valmiki, Bagata, Khond, and Koita tribes perform to the tunes of Mori, Kiridi, Tudumu, Dappu, and Jodukommulu and enchant the audience who arrive in large numbers on Itika Pongal.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ANDHRA PRADESH TOURISM; KARAN TAKULIA; DREAMSTIME; COURTESY OF ANDHRA PRADESH TOURISM
DO One of the most significant tourist places is the beautiful Borra Caves. Discovered by a geologist William King in 1807, the stalactites and stalagmites in the caves are a part of many legends of the tribal natives—it is believe that Lord Rama lived here with Sita, and Lakshman during their 14-year exile. Visit the caves with a guide and uncover mythical stories buried inside. As you meander in the hills, you will chance upon coffee plantations of Araku Valley. These are grown and maintained by the tribes, and the brand ‘Araku Emerald’ is globally loved. To know more about the tribes living in the area, pay a visit to the Tribal Museum. It gives a tribute to the heritage and legacy of native tribes by showcasing their lifestyles and social, economic and cultural customs. The magnificent valley and the rolling hills are best viewed from the Galikonda Viewpoint. Here, people often try sizzling Bembo Chicken from street vendors. Next comes the picturesque Padmapuram Botanical Garden, home to many varieties of flowers and trees. That’s not it though— the hill station also has postcardperfect waterfalls and reservoirs including Katiki waterfall, near Borra Caves, Thatiguda waterfall, Chaaparai waterfall, and Tatipudi Reservoir.
Clockwise: The train to Araku Valley offers a scenic journey; Bembo Chicken that's cooked inside bamboo; coffee plantations at Araku Valley; Anantagiri Hill Resort.
STAY Just as you enter Tyda (75 kms from Vizag), an eco-resort set up by Andhra Pradesh Tourism welcomes you. A nature camp in the foothills of Eastern ghats, Tyda Jungle Bells Nature Camp features 18 cottages surrounded by wilderness and offers a range of activities including trekking, bird watching, and bonfire on weekends with Dhimsa dance performances by tribal members. Drive the serpentine roads to get to the hilltop Anantagiri Hill Resort. With AC and non-AC cottages, this property is a quiet retreat in nature, where all you hear is the sweet sound of birds and rivulets crashing in the stream. Haritha
Mayuri, an APTDC resort, is another accommodation option in the hills.
BUY Araku Valley Coffee House is the best spot to enjoy a hot cup of coffee with sandwiches. It also houses a coffee museum, a cricket pitch and a rodeo bull ride. The famous coffee and chocolates in a variety of flavours including mint, chilli, peanuts, and butterscotch, make sweet souvenirs. You can also walk next door to Araku Aadiwasi Arts and Crafts shop and buy tribal arts products such as music instruments, ornaments, jute bags, and lac figurines. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Back In Time The 100-year-old Kurupam Tomb is commonly known as Visakha Taj Mahal.
SECRETS OF THE EAST COAST
Unfold the chapters of history of this small fishing village that has been ruled by King Ashoka, the Cholas, the Mughals, and the British. 12
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Named after Visakha, the God of Valour and son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, Visakhapatnam has a past that goes back to the great Hindu epics, Mahabharata and Ramayana. It is believed that it was here that the Pandava brother, Bheema, won over the demon Bakasura. Meanwhile, this is also where Lord Rama met his devotee Shabari, and thus began his quest to bring Sita back from the confines of Ravana. In Borra Caves, many of these mythical stories are reiterated by travel guides as the caves are wrapped in various tales of Rama and Sita. According to Hindu and Buddhist texts from the 5th and 6th centuries, Visakhapatnam was a part of the Kalinga Empire. It was later annexed by King Ashoka. There is enough archaeological evidence to suggest that the Buddhist complexes of Sankaram, Bavikonda, Thotlakonda, and Pavurallakonda in Visakhapatnam were built around the time when Buddhism gained momentum in India, under Ashoka’s rule. In the years that followed, the region came under the reign of Vengi kings, Chalukyas, and Pallavas. An Andhra king gave the city its name Visakhapatnam between the 9th and 11th centuries. Legend is that he was on his way to Varanasi when he stopped in the region, and so enchanted was he with its beauty that he commissioned a temple to be built here in honour of his family deity, Visakha. However, archaeological evidence suggests that the said temple (it no longer exists) was built in the 11th century by the Chola king Kulottunga. A historically and religiously significant monument, the Simhachalam Temple has lived to tell the tales of its origin. The inscriptions on this temple—which has Orissan and Chalukyan influences—dates back to 1098 AD to the time of Chola king Kuloththunga. Another inscription proves that the king of Orissa,
KARAN TAKULIA
LEGACIES AND LEGENDS
KARAN TAKULIA (2); BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY OF ANDHRA PRADESH TOURISM
Clockwise: This historic building—now the District Collector's office—was built between 1865-1914; Dutch Cemetery in Bheemili; Ross Hill Church.
Narasimha Deva, built the main shrine in 1267 AD. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Mughal kings gained power in Visakhapatnam. Later, the Dutch, the French, and the English established themselves in the district in the 17th century. It was then that Vizag become a major trading centre for export of tobacco, indigo, and textiles. Under the British rule, Visakhapatnam became a district in the Madras Presidency, and the Waltair railway station became the central hub of the city. A part of the city is still known as Waltair. When India became independent in 1947, Visakhapatnam was the biggest
district in the country. Later, it was divided into three parts: Visakhapatnam, Srikakulam, and Vizianagaram. In 1956, Visakhapatnam became a part of Andhra Pradesh, and was one of the largest cities on the East Coast.
CULTURAL GLORY l Vizag is a city where different cultures
have survived the battle of time. l Telugu is a highly dominant language in the city, but locals also speak and understand English and Hindi. l The cuisine and culture of the neighbouring states of Odisha, Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu play a role in Vizag. The port city is
also a naval base and a fast developing IT hub. There is a mix of people and intermingling of cultures here. l A trip to the city is incomplete without witnessing the famous tribal Dhimsa dance. It is performed by women dressed in colourful tribal dresses, and has become synonymous with Vizag. Lively and upbeat, Dhimsa is the cultural highlight in places such as Tyda and Araku Valley—a performance on misty evenings in the natural surroundings of the tribes is a treat for travellers. l Another popular dance form in the city is Kuchipudi, which originated in the state of Andhra Pradesh. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Food Talk
LOCAL FLAVOURS
From newly-opened restaurants to legendary local eateries, this is your guide to what’s cooking in Visakhapatnam, and where.
Clockwise: Brinjal gutti vankaya; idli sambhar with coconut chutney; Andhra biryani.
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CLOCKWISE: COURTESY OF THE GATEWAY HOTEL BEACH ROAD; SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
S
picy coastal Andhra cuisine, vegetarian Udupi dishes, and Chettinad dishes from Tamil Nadu—all have found their way to Visakhapatnam and are now a part of its cuisine. Influences of the neighbouring regions reflect heavily in Vizag’s food culture, and that’s the reason you will find as many vegetarian options in the port city as non-vegetarian. 'Tiffin' is the word that locals use for meals. Their typical morning starts with a healthy breakfast of sambhar and idli or dosa for breakfast. In the afternoon, they relish in bisi bele bhaat (rice with sambhar and boondi), brinjal gutti vankaya, and chepala pulusu (Andhra fish curry). Kodi pulusu (chicken curry) and kodi chimli (a chicken starter) are two more specialities. Since this is a coastal city, you must try its seafood— royallu vepudu (the classic Andhra
BEST PLACES TO EAT
All-time favourites to new hotspots, these restaurants in Vizag make for a memorable meal. Sri Sairam Parlour: Ask anyone in Visakhapatnam where you find the best vegetarian food in the city, and they will name this legendary eatery. Go without expecting too much—this place is always packed with locals having tiffin and the food will remind you of a simple meal made at home— precisely where its charm lies. You must try the South Indian specialities such as idli and dosa.
From top: Chepala pulusu; a seafood platter at Four Points by Sheraton, Vizag; Ming Garden at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road.
Raju Ka Dhaba: Another Vizag favourite, this restaurant on the shore of Rushikonda Beach plates up traditional Andhra-style seafood. The star dish at this unpretentious restaurant is biryani—they have different varieties including egg, prawn, chicken, and mutton, and curries to accompany them. Creamstone Dessert Parlour: Although you will find many ice cream parlours in Vizag, this one located in Siripuram is worth a try.
FROM TOP: DREAMSTIME; COURTESY OF FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON; COURTESY OF THE GATEWAY HOTEL BEACH ROAD
The Square at Novotel Visakhapatnam Varun Beach: With a lavish breakfast spread that’s the talk of the town, The Square has a wonderful setting with European décor. Try their wood-fried pizzas or Teppanyaki dishes.
prawn fry) is a delicacy that will give you a taste of the true Andhra cuisine. Vizag is also a city that loves its rice. You will be surprised to see locals savouring tomato rice, vegetable rice, and fried rice at all times. But legendary is the Andhra biryani. This biryani may be available all over the world, but Vizag has some great restaurants where you can try the authentic Andhra biryani, packed with all flavours. Pootharekulu (Telugu word
paper sweet) is the most popular dessert in Vizag. Especially served during special occasions such as weddings, this sweet dish appears like a folded paper, and is filled with sugar and ghee, making it quite a task to prepare it. A crunchy, twisted, savoury snack, murukku will remind you of chakli. There are many versions and varieties of this snack, so try some with tea in the evening and take some back home.
Bake My Wish: A quiet, homely joint run by 28-year-old Sirisha at Lawson’s Bay, Bake My Wish offers tempting pastries, pastas, and milkshakes. This is a place where you can sit peacefully and relax with a cuppa. Ming Garden at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road: For special occasions, you must make your way to one of the finest restaurants in Vizag, Ming Garden. This fine-dining establishment is an Asian food lover’s delight. Great for family dinners, their stir-fried or braised Thai and Chinese dishes are quite popular. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Shopper’s Handbook Saris from Vizag are a must-buy.
Old markets, glitzy malls, and emporiums selling traditional handicraft items—Visakhapatnam has all this and more. 16
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KARAN TAKULIA (4)
FRESH FROM THE PORT
V
isakhapatnam is teeming with shopping streets and fashion stores. Whether you collect art and craft products or scour the markets for a blingy piece of jewellery, the charming port city will keep your bags full of goodies.
SHOPPING DISTRICTS The main shopping area in Vizag is the Jagdamba Market, which is a hub for shops, malls, and fashion stores. In this district, you will find everything that may be on your shopping list. Follow the footsteps of locals and make a turn towards Poorna Market, the oldest market in the city where people come to buy everyday household goods, including fruits and veggies, spices and pulses, and seafood. If you’ve noticed people wearing bamboo hats in the city and want to feel like a part of the crowd, this is the place to go. Keep some space in your car for the Waltair Main Road, which is lined up with brands, from Westside to Nike, this street is known for its fashion labels. The Kurupam Market area, close to the post office, is famous for its gold and silver jewellery, and you’ll find a treasure here at good prices. Another exclusive market is in Daba Gardens. Known for its sports products, it has an array of sports merchandisers selling skates, cricket kits, and more.
SHOPPING MALLS When the sun is shining bright and hot in the port city, it’s time to explore the shopping malls. CMR Central, CMR Mall, and Visakhapatnam Central are the biggest malls in Vizag, and they have everything from food outlets to fashion brands and even entertainment. If you want to take a breather from all the shopping, you can make a stop at one of the food courts in these malls or go bowling at CMR Central.
Clockwise: Bobbili veenas at Lepakshi Emporium; Chandana Bros shopping store; dolls at Lepakshi Emporium.
SOUVENIRS Forget postcards and fridge magnets— if you’re looking for some knick-knacks to take back home, there is nothing better than etikoppaka handicrafts. Made in a small village called Etikoppaka in Visakhapatnam district, these wooden artefacts with lacquer colours are great souvenirs. Buy fancy toys, household items, and figurines from Lepakshi Emporium or Eastern Art Museum. Another famous craft item is the Bobbili Veena, made in a small town called Bobbili (situated 55 kms from Vizag).
One of the biggest stores of saris in Vizag is Chandana Bros. The Andhra special Uppada and Chirala, Pochampalli pure silk, Banarasi, Gadwal, and many more kinds of the traditional attire can be found here. This 30-year-old store, spread over three levels, has 22-carat gold jewellery, menswear, kids' wear and other accessories. Spice lovers should look out for the famous Andhra pickle. You will notice that various brands of pickles are stacked at local shops—the biggest names in the market include Siri, Agrigold, Ramoji, and Surya. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Active Life
Golf is very popular in Visakhapatnam. Below: Motor boat riding on the beach.
ALONG FOR A RIDE Challenge yourself with these sports that will keep you up and running.
A game of golf in Vizag’s East Point Golf Club (EPGC) around 15 kms from the city, is a bewitching experience. The manicured greens of the 18-hole course is surrounded by the rolling hills, creating the perfect setting for a tee off. Built originally by the British in 1884, this golf club was moved to its current location in 1964, and today it is the place where bankers, businessmen, and Naval officers socialise over a friendly match. The club also hosts a clubhouse, a driving range, and a pro shop.
TREKKING Bring your backpack and some energy bars and strail your way up the hills, past the temple, and the Buddhist sites. There are many treks in Vizag that will make the adrenaline rush: Tyda 18
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Jungle Bells, Simhachalam Temple, Kailasagiri Hill, Katiki Waterfalls, Erra Matti Dibbalu, Kambalakonda, and the Buddhist sites.
CYCLING The smooth roads and beautiful landscape of Visakhapatnam inspire people to pedal their way through the city. It’s not uncommon to witness a group of cyclists wheeling down the hills of Araku Valley on weekends, or locals cycling on the Beach Road every morning when the road remains closed for vehicles. There’s even a biking club in Vizag ( facebook.com/ BayCyclingClub) where you can meet like-minded biking enthusiasts. You can hire a two-wheeler on rent (bikestation.in) to explore the city at your own pace.
WATER SPORTS Unspoiled beaches of Vizag are ideal venues for water sports, and the city may become an adventurer’s favourite diving and surfing destination soon. Rushikonda, Bheemili, Mangamaripeta, Sagarnagar, and Araku will be the main hubs for adventure sports. The government has provisionally registered India Xtreme Sports to provide adventure sports in Vizag and Araku Valley. Crescent Adventures and Water Sports and Livein Adventures
are already offering many activities including scuba diving, kayaking, canoeing, paragliding, and parasailing. Water lovers will soon get a chance to experience sea cruises and sea plane riding.
GO-KARTING Thrill seekers can take the party to the tracks at Hub For Youth (hubforyouth. com). Located on the Beach Road on the way to Bheemili, this fun park has an exciting go-karting circuit, a bowling alley, and a multi-cuisine restaurant.
SHUTTERSTOCK; FLICKR
GOLFING
Revelry Simhachalam Temple hosts the Chandanotsavam every year. Below: A Dhimsa dance performance.
DAYS OF FUN
A kaleidoscope of colours, Visakhapatnam is a treat for all senses especially during festivals. Plan your trip around these occasions to witness grandeur and glory.
DREAMSTIME (2)
CHANDANA YATRA The grandest temple festival in the city is Chandanotsavam, held at the famous 11th-century Simhachalam Temple. Every year this auspicious occasion brings devotees from all over India to this small city to see Lord Narasimha Swami. While the deity is covered with sandalwood paste all year round, on this day, this paste is removed and a fresh coat applied. The ceremony starts around midnight inside the sanctum which remains closed for visitors, and at precisely 3 am, a pooja is performed after the deity
is revealed and devotees are allowed inside.
VISAKHA UTSAV In the month of January, Vizag hosts the three-day annual fete on RK beach and presents the art and culture of Andhra Pradesh to tourists. With heritage walks, flower shows, exhibitions of art and crafts, food stalls, and sports events, this festival promotes Vizag as a tourist destination. Last year, a large number of travellers visited the city during the festival, and revelled with the locals as fireworks and a laser show captivated everyone’s
attention. Tribal artists performed Dhimsa Dance, and replicas of five temples were built at the beach.
in exhibitions and fairs, and also organises food stalls, sporting events, and cultural programmes.
LUMBINI FESTIVAL
NAVY DAY
Once a prominent Buddhist learning centre, Vizag celebrates its legacy in December every year with the multi-faceted Lumbini Festival. During this threeday event, Buddhist sites in the city are decorated for visitors who come from different parts of the world. The government of Andhra Pradesh showcases its cultural heritage, encourages local artists to participate
There is no better way to see the magnificence of the Indian Navy than to visit the city around the Navy Day on December 4. The Beach Road is the main venue for all the festivities. Commemorating the day when the Indian Navy attached the Kochi Harbour in 1971, the port city looks on as the Navy presents an impressive display of submarines, aircraft, and weapons. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Accommodation
From top: Novotel Visakhapatnam Varun Beach; a guestroom at the hotel.
MODERN COMFORTS
Whether you’re in Visakhapatnam for business or on a holiday, these luxury hotels in the city will make your stay pleasurable.
Located on Beach Road with RK beach just a walk away, this five star property is a favourite with locals and tourists. Its 224 capacious rooms and suites come with conveniences such as an ergonomic work area, 32-inch television, internet access, and bathroom amenities. Dine at The Square—the hotel’s signature restaurant with European décor that offers a lavish buffet with live counters, or take your family to taste local cuisine at Zaffran. For an intimate evening with your partner, head towards the all-glass rooftop restaurant Infinity, or let your hair down at the lounge bar, Vue. Besides, there is also a pastry shop for indulgence, an outdoor heated pool for relaxation, and a fitness centre for your routine workouts. novotel.com
THE PARK VIZAG The beachfront property has everything to make your holiday perfect: Plush rooms and suites, swanky restaurants and bars, and a breathtaking view of the Bay of Bengal. The hotel also features Crafts Court where local artists have displayed their art; a gift shop called The Box which sells books, souvenirs, 20
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cosmetic products, and accessories handpicked by Priya Paul; a jogging track, a tennis court, and an outdoor chessboard for sports enthusiasts; and a luxury spa. theparkhotels.com
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON, VISAKHAPATNAM This swanky five-star hotel in Vizag is located on Waltair Road, a mere 25-minute distance from the airport. All 123 cosy guestrooms come equipped with a Four Points by Sheraton Four Comfort Bed, a mini-bar, and an LCD television. Don’t miss out on Chef Akhilesh’s delicious breakfast and dinner buffets at The Eatery—his South Indian specialties are highly recommended. The hotel also features Panash, a pan-Asian restaurant offering panoramic views of the coast; numerous conference rooms, and a swimming pool. starwoodhotels.com
THE GATEWAY HOTEL BEACH ROAD The Gateway Hotel on Beach Road features 89 rooms and four suites with everyday comforts including high-speed Internet access, television with satellite programmes, and a complimentary tea and coffee maker. You can expect
COURTESY OF NOVOTEL VISAKHAPATNAM VARUN BEACH (2)
NOVOTEL VISAKHAPATNAM VARUN BEACH
COURTESY OF FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON; COURTESY OF THE GATEWAY HOTEL BEACH ROAD; COURTESY OF THE PARK HOTELS
Clockwise: Family lounge at Four Points by Sheraton, Vizag; sweet delights at the hotel; swimming pool at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road; The Park Vizag; a lavish spread at the hotel.
warm hospitality and top-notch service here. Moreover, the hotel houses a bar with wall-size windows overlooking the Bay of Bengal and a sea deck, an open-air restaurant GAD, and Ming Garden restaurant serving authentic Szechwan cuisine. To unwind yourself, you can book a massage at the spa or relax in the Jacuzzi; a fitness centre, swimming pool, and business spaces are also available at the hotel. thegatewayhotels.com
manicured lawns, gardens, and ponds, this property has a beautiful landscape that will help you relax and unwind away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Read a book lying on a hammock; plan a barbeque with your friends; or take your kids cycling in the gardens—there is much to do here. The hotel also has a multi-cuisine restaurant with delicious seafood, a 50-metre pool dotted with palms, and comfortable rooms and villas. sunrayvillageresort.com
WELCOMHOTEL GRAND BAY, VISAKHAPATNAM On the same road as the rest of the beachfront properties, this luxury hotel is perched on a hilltop, 100 metres from the waters. Here, you will find 104 luxe guestrooms, an array of restaurants serving Indian, Continental, Italian, and Oriental cuisines as well as a posh bar stocking a selection of fine wines and spirits. itchotels.in
SUNRAY VILLAGE RESORT Eight kilometres from Rushikonda beach, this resort offers a respite from brick and mortar buildings and concrete pavements of the city. Cocooned in nature with well-
GETTING THERE
Visakhapatnam is connected to all major cities in India. Vizag’s airport is just 12 kms away from the city centre and brings travellers from every corner of the country. Moreover, the railways link the port city to Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai, Delhi, Amritsar, Tirupati, Trivandrum, and Guwahati, to name a few. The eight-platform main station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line and is a busy stop. The excellent roads make for a good road trip from the neighbouring cities. Moreover, there are also public and private buses running to and from nearby states including Odisha, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka. TRAVEL+LEISURE 2015
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Connectivity domestic
India Circuit
No matter which part of the country you’re in, Visakhapatnam is just a flight away.
Delhi
Guwahati Varanasi
Ahmedabad
Indore
Raipur
Kolkata
BAY OF BENGAL
Bhubaneswar
Mumbai
Pune
Hyderabad
Vijayawada
Visakhapatnam
Triputi Bengaluru
Chennai
Coimbatore
l Air India, Jet Airways, SpiceJet, IndiGo, Air Costa, and AirAsia
operate flights to and from Visakhapatnam.
Kochi
l In recent years, these carriers have launched direct flights
Trivandrum
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connecting Vizag to major cities in India.
l The Visakhapatnam Airport has two adjacent terminals used
for domestic and international flights.
i n t e r n at i o n a l
Flying Overseas
While Vizag connects to some of the major international destinations, many more are expected in the coming years.
Chicago
New York Delhi Dubai
Visakhapatnam
Mumbai
Bangkok Kuala Lumpur Singapore
l SilkAir operates a direct flight between Vizag and Singapore.
The inaugural flight was made in October 2012.
l The Visakhapatnam Airport started round-the-clock operations this
year to tackle growing traffic.
l There are duty-free shops, snack bars, child-care centres, lounges,
and eating outlets at the airport for travellers.
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DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM Government of Andhra Pradesh, India
Secretariat Road, Near Tank Bund, Hyderabad-500 063 Ph: +91-40-2345 3110, +91-40-2345 1908 Fax: +91-40-23450310 www.aptdc.gov.in www. aptourism.gov.in Toll Free: 1800-42-545454 www.facebook.com/andhrapradeshtourism @aptdcOFFICIAL