Fashion as Photograph (the body in fashion photography) helen.clarke@leeds-art.ac.uk
Catalogue/product photography
Ghost mannequin
First permanent photographs
Louis Daguerre, Boulevard de Temple, 1838/9 â—?
William Henry Fox Talbot ● ●
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Invented a fixing process Calotype – process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical processing today). UK in 1840
Lady Alice Mary Kerr's Portrait of Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, c.1870
Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856
The Countess of Castiglione in a photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson, c.1863/66
Photographed by Pierson 1861-1867
Age of the fashion magazine ●
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Improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines First ten years of the 1900’s Before this drawn illustrations were used.
Petersons magazine plate , 1888
Paul Poiret (1879-1944) ●
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House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute couture) Freedom from corsetry Signature shapes- hobble skirt, harem pants Clothing cut along straight lines Influenced by antique dress- draping
Edward Steichen photographs Paul Poirets designs for Art et DĂŠcoration, 1911
Adolf de Meyer, 1920’s
Martin Munkacsi, early to mid 1930’s
La Mode Pratique, 1938
Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar ●
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Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920’s and 30’s Hoyningen-Huene for HB (photographs for Madame Vionnet) Horst P. Horst for Vogue Cecil Beaton for British Vogue
Hoyningen-Heune, 1931 Madame Vionnet
Horst P Horst Costume for Salvador Dalí’s “Dream of Venus”. 1939
Cecil Beaton (1904- 1980) ● ●
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British Vogue and Vanity Fair Photographed and was a member of the “Bright Young Things” of the 1920’s/30’s Photographed British Royals Prolific diarist designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway
Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930’s
Stephen Tennant by Cecil Beaton
Queen Elizabeth II in 1968
Lee Miller (1907-1977) Photographed by Steichen American photographer and fashion model at age 19
photographer Goes to Paris in 1929 with photographer Man Ray
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Involved in the surrealist movement in photography
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This image: ●Photograph of Eileen Agar, Brighton, England 1937
War correspondent In 1944 she became a correspondent accredited to the US Army, and teamed up with Time Life photographer David E. Scherman. She followed the US troops overseas on 'D' Day + 20. She was probably the only woman combat photojournalist to cover the war in Europe and among her many exploits she witnessed the siege of St Malo, the Liberation of Paris, the fighting in Luxembourg and Alsace, the Russian/American link up at Torgau, the liberation of Buchenwald and Dachau. She billeted in both Hitler and Eva Braun's houses in Munich, and photographed Hitler's house Wachenfeld at Berchtesgaden in flames on the eve of Germany's surrender. Penetrating deep into Eastern Europe, she covered harrowing scenes of children dying in Vienna, peasant life in post war Hungary and finally the execution of Prime Minister Lazlo Bardossy.
Louise Dahl Wolfe ●
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From 1936 to 1958 Dahl-Wolfe was a staff fashion photographer at Harper’s Bazaar. From 1958 until her retirement in 1960, DahlWolfe worked as a freelance photographer for Vogue, Sports Illustrated, and other periodicals. “Environmental” fashion photography
Night bathing, 1939
Panorama of Paris, Suzy Parker in Jacques Fath Gown, 1953
1940’s 50’s
William Klein, 1950’s
David Bailey (1938-) Mick Jagger,
Terence Donovan Spy Drama 1962
Brian Duffy Jean Shrimpton on the Edgeware Road, 1960
Richard Avedon (1923 -2004) ● ● ●
Harpers Bazaar till 1966 Vogue 1966 onwards The book ‘In the American West’
Tina Turner, 1971
Bill Curry, Drifter, Interstate 40, Yukon, Oklahoma, from In the American West, 1985
Helmut Newton (1920-2004) Vogue and Harpers Bazaar
Guy Bourdin for Charles Jourdan shoes
Jamel Shabazz, Back in the days, published 2002
August 1980
I-D magazine vs The Face 1995
1997
Juergen Teller (1964- ) ●
German photographer
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Photos in The Face, Vogue
Has worked with Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs
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Works with musicians
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Annie Morton , 1996
Corrine Day (1965-2010) British fashion photographer and model
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Worked for the Face and Vogue
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Vogue cover with Kate Moss credited with the beginnings of the trend for the ‘waif’ look.
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Corrine Day Tara A documentary project
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Exhibited at Gimpel Fils gallery in 2000
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Adobe Photoshop ●
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Digital image manipulation graphics editing program First launched 2003
Terry Richardson Book Terryworld published 2004
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US photographer
Has worked for Vogue, Vanity Fair, ID magazine. Harpers Bazaar
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Sisley, Diesel, Mango ●H&M, ●
Nick Knight ●UK
photographer
●Worked
with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90’s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior
●Shots
for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine
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image: with designer Gareth Pugh for Mercedes Benz campaign of 2009
Fashion blogging ● ● ●
Democratises fashion photography Anyone can write about/ photograph fashion Eg: Tavi Gevinsons “Style Rookie”
Streetstyle Copenhagen http://copenhagenstreetstyle.thepop.com/
Poppy Dinsey, 2011
wiwt.com
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20 or more fashion bloggers celebrated Put forward as a way into employment Seems to celebrate ‘real’ and ‘street’ fashion
Exacitudes- Ari Versluis (photographer) and Ellie Uyttenbrock (stylist) Neighbours, Rotterdam 2008
Casettes gang, London 2008
Further Research ●
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Barnard, M (2002) Fashion as Communication. Routledge, London Rankin, (2009) Seven Photographs that changed Fashion, BBC 4 The Many Lives of William Klein (2012) Imagine BBC1 Shinkle, E (2008) Fashion as Photograph, I B Tauris and Co Ltd, London