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Volume 1 - Spring/Summer 2015
Discovering Independent Labels
Karolina Hubner . Wavey Garms . Bill and Mar . Lulu Murray . Otho London
This Label belongs to
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Welcome “Style is something each of us already has, all we need to do is find it.” -Diane Von Furstenberg
Dear Friends, It’s time to move forward. I’ve always believed that you can best stay true to yourself by looking within and showing that to the world. If more people had the introspective courage to share their visions and hopes for the future, then many staid prejudices and fears would be absolved. The heart of evolution, positive change, and rebellion is a creative voice.
Label Spring/Summer 2015 is like a sweet treat, but not for the faint hearted. It is your guide to the coolest emerging designers way before the knowledge of masses. This issue is a doublebarrelled exploration into London’s most wanted key pieces. Fashion doesn’t make us who we are– style does. Whether you are a designer yourself, aspiring designer or if you just worship independents, you’ve come to the right place.
This issue of Label gets to the bottom of creative synergies, divulging in independent designers triumphs, pains, gains and the result of pure imagination. We aim to immerse you in a community of the unknown, giving you womenswear labels beyond attraction.
In the end, we encourage you to put us on your shelf or even better– in your bag. Look to us for inspiration, we are a community who brings together like minded people just in our fashion capital of London. Come on in: The label’s await.
Holly Greene
CONT 13-16
The future of social commerce
The new shopping revolution
7-12
profile:You need to wear this
Rosie Bonnar, designer at Bill and Mar
E
17-22
Designer interview:
23-28
Valerie Hui, designer at Otho London
Designer interview:
Lulu Murray, designer at Pippa Lynn
ENTS 29-33
Finding your’e free Becoming your own boss in the fashion industry
You need to wear this
PROFILE
Rosie Bonnar’s A/W 2015 creation for Bill and Mar is one to look out for. From spotting her designs on celebrities, to maintaining her business in-house, Rosie’s suitably subtle approach to designing remains as independent as ever… Words by Holly Greene Photography by Bill and Mar /7
Metallic dress – Bill and Mar SS15
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PROFILE
“As an aspiring designer you get so many knock backs, but it’s all about being resilient. I should have embraced my inner confidence but that came with a little success,”
Below Left: Camouflage Body-con – Bill and Mar SS15
Above: Mesh T-shirt – Bill and Mar SS15
Above: Metalic Dress – Bill and Mar SS15
The first time I met Rosie, it was February 2015 and the location was a quaint wooden table at Shoreditch house, London. Undeniably I was expecting a confident, honest or potentially slightly extrovert woman sitting next to her PA, who would glare at me anytime I asked an unsuitable question. Since her teens the 26-year-old designer has been sketching Bill and Mar’s first collection. I was apprehensive to say the least. Rosie stood up and greeted me with a friendly smile, there was no need to feel apprehensive – she was alone, with just a cold glass of orange juice. Since 2011, Rosie Bonnar has been dressing the ‘urban’ street bloggers and celebrities. Available online, her designs are loved and worn by Ellie Goulding, Rita Ora, Cara Delevingne and the unforgettable Charlie Barker. “Spotting Rita Ora wearing my SS13 marble dress was one of my proudest moments. The first thing I did was ring up my phone contact list to make sure everyone had seen.”
However, becoming a designer has come with some unwanted attention. “I had a tough time trying to start up the label. People would give me their opinions on my sketches and I found the first collection starting to shape into other people’s ideas of Bill and Mar, not mine.” Rosie’s grandparents Billy and Marion’s 60-year marriage inspired the name ‘Bill and Mar’. The garments are somewhere between an eclectic mix of prints, colour and the buzzing London streets. They are designed to help any woman feel comfortable, sexy and unique. After being snapped up by Leeds University back in 2010, Rosie decided to kick start her designing career by dip dying and reclaiming old vintage tees for a little extra cash. Fresh from student life, she moved back to London where she noticed a niche in the market for /10
PROFILE
clashy fabrics with a vintage vibe. “Clubbing in Shoreditch helped me to spot the fascination with wacky vintage shirts. I knew then that I could create a collection that a lot of people would love… plus it would come without the lingering vintage smell.” So she did just that. It wasn’t just Rosie’s potential buyers that she presumed would love her collection. In 2013, Bill and Mar’s SS13 creation was spotted by retail sensations, ASOS and Topshop. After being offered a concession with the high-street giants, Rosie felt as though it was the wrong time. “After just one month I realised that it was a big ask for such a small business,” she admits. “The retailers wanted us to come up with new designs each week and with a small team of four, that was impossible. So, we decided to pull everything back in-house.” Large retailers can turn an independent label into an established brand very quickly; it all depends on what your business goals are. “It’s important to understand that a third party requires compromise,” Rosie explains. There are, of course, some designers who would jump at the chance to become so established.
Many young designers are faced with that looming ‘fear of missing out’ moment. To go or not to go, that’s the question. “Missing out on travelling is my only regret,” she admits. Despite Rosie’s initial concerns, her intuitive instinct has paid off. Bill and Mar fans are helping Rosie and her small team flourish.
“It’s important to understand that a third party requires compromise.”
For Rosie, earning money wasn’t her ambition, it was important for her to love the brand. Despite the great opportunities, the pressure of large retailers was too much. “Your journey as a designer will bring many inspiring people into your life, but you have to be careful who you trust. Staying true to your values and morals should be a priority.” Becoming an independent designer is a dream for some. Only a few, however, can turn that dream into reality. “As an aspiring designer you get so many knock backs, but
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it’s all about being resilient. I should have embraced my inner confidence but that came with a little success,” Rosie explains. Even though the designer’s brand is one of the most talked about emerging labels of the moment, it has come with a few consequences. “I do believe you should work hard and play hard, but I missed out on travelling because I wanted to focus on Bill and Mar.”
While most indie’s have a small vision, Rosie has big plans for her clothing label, “Taking Bill and Mar to Australia would be amazing. Surprisingly around 40% of our online customers order from there, so it could be a great opportunity for us in the future.” Until these plans happen, Bill and Mar will continue to clothe the backs of the underground fashion world.
It’s safe to say that the designer has defied my expectations. Her raw talent and passion has enabled Rosie to thrive among the masses. “The advice that I would give to anyone wanting to start up their own clothing label is to make sure you have gained experience in every area. From manufacturing, business, textiles and sewing. You’ll thank yourself for it later,” she explains. I will be sure to purchase a little treat from Bill and Mar’s Autumn/ Winter 2015 collection that will be on sale from September at Billandmar.com. Alternatively, contact sambonnar@ billandmar.com for all wholesale and concession enquiries.
Above: Dress – Bill and Mar SS15
I would describe my style as... A huge mix of Bill and Mar, embellished pieces, jeans and T-shirts. I like to shop in... Australian independent labels online. You’ll find me on the weekend… During the day watching TV in bed and at night either in Notting Hill or Brixton Market. Tea or Coffee... Always a Coffee.
Above: Metallic Dress – Bill and Mar SS15 /12
Words
Holly Greene
Graphics
Sarah-Jane Clark
The future of social commerce fashion addicts are constantly searching for the next best E-commerce alternative to window shopping. Changing the way in which we spree and how businesses make their hard earned money. /14
RETAIL
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Social shopping” is the intriguing offspring of social networking and online shopping, and it can offer your growing business just the marketing leg up it needs. Online has revolutionised itself into a platform for independent labels and boutiques to engage with their customers, and for their customers to feel just as engaged with them.
With 76% of us Brits accessing the Internet every day and online shoppers spending more year on year, there’s no better time for change. The ability to interact with consumers directly on social media platforms adds an innovative edge to a small business and plus – it’s cost free. More and more companies are beginning to establish themselves online. Having those all-important Facebook and Twitter accounts shifts conversations from interpersonal discussions to shared opinions and experiences about a brand. Thus, enabling growth for businesses and an exciting alternative to virtual shopping centres for customers.
likeminded people is setting the bar high for independent brands. With over 14,000 members, this exclusive shopping site allows you to buy and sell (“garms”) that they think are cool or (“wavey”). Andreas Barry and Gabrielle Roberts have been a couple since 2005, meeting through mutual friends they have put their love of all things 90’s into a risk taking business venture. “If you have a business idea you need to just go for it, what have you got to lose, if it doesn’t work out then at least you would have learned something from it,” admits Gabrielle. Aspiring members request to join the Facebook group and then post pictures of garments that they want to sell, other members will then direct message to assemble a price. Usually the payment is settled over PayPal. Selling everything from vintage Mochino to iconic Celine – imagine Harrods having a second-hand shop run by Salt N Pepa and you get the picture.
“Buying and selling via social media such as Facebook enables you to see who your dealing with. You get to buy and sell to likeminded people and We are all familiar with the ‘Pinterest meets eBay’ our members make friends with each other, meet social shopping app, Depop. Founded in Italy back and then party,” explains Gabrielle. in 2011, it is now worth €8million (and it’s not stopping there). The app enables users to upload By creating a community, it can encourage us to pictures of items they want to sell to their profile shop, interact and feel inspired by independent page, and build up a personal feed of profiles businesses success. 18- to 24-year-olds are five times featuring products they want to buy. Items can then more likely to follow an embedded link online than be purchased directly through the app and Depop those aged 50 plus, so it’s no surprise that Wavey manages the transaction. Garms are really engaging their consumers. According to the Office of National Statistics, online retail sales are predicted to reach £52.25bn in the UK this year, a 16.2% increase on 2014. However, shoppers are constantly looking for the next social retail app. They want a little something extra, something that they can talk about to friends. Wavey Garms, a free selling members group for
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The premature jump and overwhelming angst to have your own shop can be the only path some fashion entrepreneurs can think off. Clothing brands are plunging into the deep depths of overdrafts and bank loans, sinking before they can swim. To save money and create money, the only way businesses can stay alive is to give shoppers what they want – a revolution.
INSTA-SHOP Not only are businesses setting up killer websites, Instagram is providing a platform for new businesses who just cant afford to set up an online shop. Instagram businesses work like this: people follow the brand and when accepted will get a chance to look at any clothing or accessories that is being sold. The followers can then direct message or comment on the picture to talk about a price. It’s that simple. Big brands such as Michael Kors are also getting involved with this social shopping sensation.
BIRCHBOX Beauty brands are equally hung up on the idea of social shopping. “We call them glossy-posse parties,” explains Lauren, 21. Lauren is a beautician from Essex, before splashing out on her expensive treats, Birchbox allows her friends to help out with the decisions. “We all order sample boxes full of new beauty products, then we sit around and try things out, with a few bottles of wine and a take-away.” Think of these businesses as the Netflix of the beauty world, or a modern-day Avon. A monthly subscription gets you a box of new skincare, hair and make-up treats, meaning you can trial a selection of the latest products before committing to the full purchase. Its social shopping at it’s best. “We have shopping parties more than we have normal parties,” admits Lauren.
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Above: Two peice- Pippa Lynn SS15
INTERVIEW
Valerie Hui Experiencing first-hand the running’s of a large retailer, Otho designer Valerie felt it was time to craft her own womenswear brand Words by Holly Greene /17
Above: Top/Skirt – Otho SS15
INTERVIEW
V
alerie Hui is the designer of the emerging London fashion label, Otho. Founded in 2011, her collections have been recently noticed by international stockists in Hong Kong and Italy. Valerie’s designs look like a perfect match that combines colours, textures, fabrics and other materials; an architectural aesthetic with an artistic view. She is growing into one of the most exiting emerging designers from London. Having recently moved into her new studio, we want to know her fashion career in detail.
What are the three most defining moments in your career? Working for Topshop back in 2009 gave me an insight into the fast-paced fashion industry and taught me a great deal in terms of designing commercially, working with a budget and communicating with manufacturers and suppliers. Secondly, it would be starting up Otho as a label and my final moment would probably be the moment stockist at Glue Clothings noticed us in 2013. I say these are my most defining moments but I have so many. I’m still in that ‘star struck’ moment of becoming a designer. If you could change one thing about your designer journey, what would it be? I should have planned more when starting up Otho. I didn’t anticipate the amount of work that went into starting up a clothing label because I lacked experience. Also, I would have liked to learn a course in fashion photography. It was always a passion of mine but I never have pursued it like I have designing. I think I will keep photography as my hobby for a while. What advice would you give your 18-year-old self? That it’s never too early to start networking. It’s
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so important to get yourself out there and market yourself professionally. When I was 18 I knew I wanted to work within fashion because I was so creative but I wasn’t patient in any way. I wish I could go back and learn not to be so controlling and competitive at times too. I had the tendency to become a bit of a control freak. Who is your mentor? I don’t just have one; it’s all of my hardworking designer friends. Luckily, I have friends in the same industry, whether they work for a label or own one themselves. They’ve really helped me along the way and are still giving me support. Their advice is “It’s extremely tough, but so worth it,” so I tend to give the same advice out to other inspiring designers. If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? I would love to get into retail visual merchandising. I really enjoy creating visually aesthetic window displays and I’m definitely interested in doing set design for fashion shoots too. What has been your favourite collection to design so far? My first ever collection in 2011. It was the most exciting time of my life. I think for any designer their first one was always the best, even though it was the most stressful. What clothing labels do you wear? I like to wear Otho mostly but I shop in a few London boutiques that offer one-off garments. Where would we find you on a weekend? With a glass of wine in my hand, sitting in a Soho bar. Tea or Coffee? Coffee
“It’s never too early to start networking”
Above: Denim Dress – Otho SS15
Above: Jumpsuit – Otho SS15 21
Above: Dress – Pippa Lynn SS15
INTERVIEW
Lulu Murray When the fashion umbrella giant Fashaddict offered Lulu the freedom to take Pippa Lynn into a whole new creative direction. She became more than happy to oblige Words by Holly Greene Photography by Cora Rodriquez /24
“Everything falls into place in the end… there’s no point stressing out about little things.”
Above: Dress – Pippa Lynn SS15
INTERVIEW
L
ulu Murray is a force to be reckoned with. This East London lady is enthusiastic, quick-witted and a fashion devotee. Having in the past designed for To Love Kuvaa, Chandelier and the infamous Betty Jackson, Lulu has finally found her safe haven. Since becoming the sole designer for Pippa Lynn in 2013, she has continuously been pioneering her creative passion into the clothing line. Her designs are a mixture of digital prints and structured silhouettes representing the feminine youth of today. Label caught up with Lulu to find out more about her work process and heartfelt belief in knowing your job inside out. What are the three most defining moments in your career? Winning Best Young Designer at Yorkshire Fashion Week in 2009. I designed a high-end womenswear range in my final year of university. I took an influence from a mixture of South East Asia and British fabrics. When you are a student you don’t know if your designs are any good or not, so it was nice to be recognised. Secondly, becoming the designer of Pippa Lynn in 2013, I was interning at the time for Fashaddict, working on other small projects with brands such as To Love Kuvaa and Chandelier. Whilst I was interning, the directors decided to push Pippa Lynn forward and took me on as the sole designer. But above all of this, it was seeing a young girl walking down Brick Lane in one of my dresses – it looked exactly how I wanted it to look on a human form. If you could change one thing about your designer journey, what would it be? I would have taken an extra curriculum course after university on tailoring. I would have loved to explore and gain more knowledge about the
technological side of tailor made clothing. I have learnt a lot on the job but if I had known more about sizing and garment production – my job would be a quicker process. What advice would you give your 18-year-old self? To not worry so much and lighten up. Everything falls into place in the end and there is no point stressing out about little things. Every little thing at the age of 18 seems like such a big deal at the time, but it isn’t in the long run. Who is your mentor? Working for Betty in 2010 as her design intern taught me so much. I was lucky enough to persuade her to look over my portfolio towards the end of my time there and she had a lot to say about it. If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? I have always wanted to be a designer so this question is hard. When I was 16, I worked for Lizard as an assistant buyer and loved the idea of travelling a lot. So if I had to, it would be buying. What’s been your favourite collection to design so far? Every season I find myself saying “This is by far my favourite collection,” so I guess I love them all. What clothing labels do you wear? I shop mostly at Cos, And Other Stories and Charity shops. Where would we find you on a weekend? On a camping trip, in a pub or at an exhibition. Tea or Coffee? Coffee
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Above: Skirt/Top – Pippa Lynn SS15
Above: Jumper/Skirt – Pippa Lynn SS15
Above: Leather Jacket – A-Line – Pencil Skirt – Tube Gallery
Words
Holly Greene
Photography
Karolina Hubner
Finding you’re free
Freelancing can seem daunting for a fashion creative who relies upon an employer’s salary stability and industry support. But is it vastly becoming the only way to ensure creative freedom?
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“Working for a company gives you peace of mind that you have a job five days a week.”
Above: Waistcoat – A-Line
BUSINESS
F
rom the flexibility, to the earning ‘potential’ or just the lack of a ‘real’ boss, we are facing a decision. In the UK alone the Professional Contractors Group estimates that there are already 1.4 million freelancers working across all sectors. The commute from your bedroom to your desk can take seconds. No more early morning exhausting runs and flying coffees in order to catch the last train. If you want to take a day off, well, you’re more than welcome. The creative industry thrives on new talent. For some fashion freelancers, independence is everything. Employers want a job done well so they are more than willing to pay a higher price for someone who has worked for different clients. Bianca Edwards is a freelance fashion stylist. She has worked with retail giant, Urban Outfitters on more than one occasion. Building her reputation through networking was her only way into the job she loves. “People want to work with me because they trust my creativity,” she explains. “I love being able to create a portfolio with the different brands I work with, but money becomes tight when you have to wait for invoices,” she admits. Being able to spread your creativity in the fashion industry comes at a cost. Invoices can take up to 30 days to show up in your account, let alone the time it takes for you to finally chase up that last company. Which is worse? Having to chase up those lost payments or having an employer chasing you up about that meeting you missed. Finding your feet in the unfamiliar world of freelancing can be daunting for any creative individual, but it reaps rewards.
Karolina Hubner is a freelance fashion photographer fanatic. Born and raised in Poland, in an area that’s infamous for its economic depression, the self-taught photographer uses her camera to tell a different story. “Freelancing depends on the person. Some people feel like they need to have a boss or someone to tell them what to do and some people want to be their own boss,” she explains. It is through her camera that she has managed to create her own success, without the help of any colleagues. “Working for a company gives you peace of mind that you have a job five days a week.” Her portfolio is available online, displaying interesting collaborations with independent magazines such as Elegant and Institute. Creating a portfolio is a freelancers essential bible, although, an impressive social media presence is also an important factor. In an industry that’s thriving with new talent each day, many fashion freelancers want to market themselves as a brand more than an individual. Karolina admits, “Without freelancers all creative outlets would be boring, we would be clones of each other. There would be no room for improvement as a professional, isn’t that what being a creative individual is about?” Some freelancers choose to juggle both, working for a business and themselves. Ultimately, depending on the type of fashion professional you are will depend on how you want your career to take off. Karolina’s lookbook is available online at karolinahubner.com, she charges a freelance rate per shoot so for more information contact hubner.karolina@gmail.com. Bianca Edwards has her professional portfolio available on request so drop an email to Bianca.edwards@aol. com.
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Freelancing tips for the less familiar... 1. Focus all of your time on creating a varied range of photography to go in your portfolio - companies like to see that you can adapt. 2. Is there a market for what you do? 3. Be patient when you start up – good things come to those who wait. 4. Make contacts wherever you go, business cards are a professional option. 5. Try not to be over confident with your work, as a freelance you will rely on your reputation so you shouldn’t damage it. 6. If someone wants to promote you in any way – say yes.
For extra freelancing advice... Freelancing Professionals Speak with a freelancing professional over the phone or alternatively read their blog for updated news and advice. The website aims to help you gain an understanding about financial accounts and the best way to break into the freelancing industry. Visit freelanceadvisor. co.uk to sign up for free. Freelancing Representatives With over 21,000 members, IPSE has been representing freelancers representing freelancers, contractors and consultants from every sector of the economy. Whatever level of experience you have, they offer support and guidance in making business decisions. Visit pcg. org.uk to become a member of a qualified organisation. Freelancing Websites A website that broadcasts your talent for free, it will help market you and find you a freelancing opportunity. They only charge commission after you start making money. Visit freelancer.com if you are an employer looking to work with a freelancer too.
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