Jewellery and Other Stories
HOLTS ACADEMY
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Welcome to the very first edition of Jewellery and Other Stories!
A
s the market leaders in vocational education for Jewellery and Creative we want to highlight the jewellery trade, its many career options and the routes into working in this fascinating UK industry. This publication aims to be an inspirational resource – an insight into the jewellery trade – told through the eyes of those whom work in and love it. The Jewellery Industry is one of the most creative and vibrant in the UK. We have an international reputation for fine craftsmanship and innovative design. Currently worth about 3.5 billion to the UK economy, new jobs are set to be created throughout the jeweller sector in the next few years as it continues to grow. Most careers in jewellery require additional training to gain technical crafts or design skills. We also list some of the jobs you could do, the work we do with schools, we go into what apprenticeships are and the benefits of apprentices to business, and we have a section for business highlighting the professional development courses we can offer in retail and enterprise. The centre page spread is designed to “pull-out” and lists our current vocational and short courses. We would like to give special thanks to Laissez Faire magazine for helping us to put this together. If you want to find out more about our courses please call 0207 405 0197. We hope to inspire a generation to enter a fascinating and hugely rewarding industry, keeping alive centuries of skills and embracing modern technology. Whoever you are, we hope that you enjoy the read and that you find inspiration and information, whichever journey you are on.
CONTENTS
H A J
BE INSPIRED - with industry experts: Swarovski Annnoushka Doucas Elizabeth Gage Alex Monroe Boodles Theo Fennel Stephen Webster
olts
INDUSTRY INSIGHTS A Quick Guide To Jewellery Design The Journey Of The Jewellery Manufacturing Process
cademy of ewellery
CAREERS IN JEWELLERY - a trade for life: Do You Want To Work In The Jewellery Industry? How Do I Choose A Jewellery Course? Not Sure You Want To Study A-levels Degree Alternatives Joanna Hardy - Jewellery Historian, Auctioneer, Valuer & Resident Jewellery Expert On The Antiques Roadshow
DONT FORGET OUR CENTER FOLD PULL-OUT GUIDE TO SHORT COURSES 2014 APPRENTICESHIPS Apprenticeships Are Working For Business I Want To Be An Apprentice A Generation Not Lost But Undiscovered - by Lee Lucas Apprenticeships: Why Businesses Needs Them - by Fiona Toye JEWELLERY AND CELEBS - Spotlight on Katie Rowland MANUFACTURING Birmingham Based Manufacturer - Hockly Mint: emphasises practical training RETAIL - E-Commerce: Spotlight on Astley Clake TECH - The Future Is Already Here BIRTH STONES BY MONTH
Lee Lucas
CEO & Principal Holts Academy
www.facebook.com/HoltsAcademy twitter.com/HoltsAcademy
HOLTS ACADEMY OF JEWELLERY
The UKs only Jewellery Training Provider Delivering Solely to the Entire Jewellery Industry 5 St Cross St, Hatton Garden, London, EC1N 8UA
+44(0)20 7405 0197 www.holtsacademy.com info@holtsacademy.com
hOLTS ACADEMY OF JEWELLERY
IN THE BEGINNING
ROBERT HOLT A Personal History of a Life in the Jewellery Trade since 1947
M
r Robert Holt is a sprightly young man in his early 90s who has seen many changes over the years – he established Holts Gems in 1948 . “During the war I was doing research work for the war industry and eventually volunteered for the army in 1944. When I returned to London jobs were very scarce. I took a job in a diamond cutter’s factory in Clerkenwell. The conditions were horrible in those days. One day the Ministry of Works announced that Princess Elizabeth was coming to the factory to see the diamond for her engagement ring being cut. We were issued with uniforms for the occasion, but I refused to wear mine and I lost my job. I set up in a tiny workshop above a shop in Hatton Garden, which I eventually took over. One day I was visited by a man from Brazil who asked if I could store his collection of minerals (raw gems) in my basement and said I could sell them in my shop. Within days people came in asking if they could buy the stones, but needed them cut and polished. In those days the gem cutting and polishing industry (lapidary) had disappeared in the UK - but learning lapidary became my fixation. I met an optical lens grinder, we made our own tools and learned how to cut and polish gems. Within a few weeks we employed a couple of apprentices.
Reviving the UK lapidary trade has been a lifelong passion – even an obsession for me. It has taken me to China and North Korea, Brazil and all over Europe. I think my success has been down to luck but also spotting opportunities when they come along – manipulating luck if you like. Hatton Garden has changed a lot. My old shop has been demolished now and my son runs the new shop – his energy, ideas and talent has ensured that Holts Gems has grown - he set up Holts Academy in 1999 to provide the skills training for people wanting to work in jewellery. My advice to young people would be to train with the best, and be different. Specialise. I never went with the crowd. The future of the UK jewellery trade is bright. I recently went to a jewellery show abroad and I found that UK designs were superior. I take it more easy now, and I love to paint. My secret talent is yodelling – I like to paint and yodel though not necessarily at the same time!”
www.holtsacademy.com
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BE INSPIRED
SWAROVSKI Nadja Swarovski Member of the Swarovski Executive Board and friend to Holts Academy tells us about her life in jewellery and her inspirations
... infinite “ creative potential
of crystal by collaborating with creative talents ...
S
'Celeste' by Zaha Hadid for Swarovski Runway Rocks (2008)
�
warovski designs, manufactures, and globally markets jewellery and high-quality crystal, genuine gemstones, created stones and finished products such as accessories and lighting solutions. What started in 1895 as a small crystal manufacturing business in Wattens, Austria, has grown to be a global company making exclusivity available to a worldwide consumer base. With a rich history and a culture of creativity, Swarovski engages in diverse business activities. The company is committed to growth and to maintaining its place at the forefront of design, creativity, and technological innovation. www.holtsacademy.com
Why did you want to launch a jewellery line?
“I suppose you could say that it’s part of my Swarovski DNA. I spent my childhood playing with the beautiful crystal beads that my father brought home, and I grew up hearing stories about my grandfather working with Christian Dior and Coco Chanel. He understood the importance of putting our amazing product in the hands of great designers and I wanted to do the same.
Atelier Swarovski Crystal Bead Cocktail Ring, Golden Shadow
I launched Atelier Swarovski in 2007 because I wanted to demonstrate the infinite creative potential of crystal by collaborating with creative talents from across the design spectrum. Bringing out two collections a year, during London and Paris fashion weeks, means that we can create the ultimate luxury fashion accessory line whilst maintaining the freshness of the Swarovski brand.” What does your jewellery say about you?
Atelier Swarovski by Maison Martin Margiela Cuff
“Atelier Swarovski is very much statement jewellery with a luxury design aesthetic, but each collection is truly unique and is perfect for different moods and occasions. The Crystalactite collection we created with Maison Martin Margiela for Spring/Summer 2014 is truly avant-garde and has a futuristic, asymmetric beauty, whilst the JC Obando pieces are strong and bold. Meanwhile our new Core Collection is more classic and timeless, made up of organically shaped interlocking beads set with crystals that create a fluid natural movement.”
www.holtsacademy.com
Maison Martin Margiela F_W 13_14 Couture Show, featuring Couture jewellery pieces in collaboration with Swarovski
'Beam' by Wang Pei Yi for Swarovski Runway Rocks (2013)
Where do you find inspiration when you are creating jewellery collections?
“For me, creativity is a kind of alchemy which arises from close collaboration with designers, mixed with our extraordinary creative ingredient. We give them free reign to experiment with our incredible range of crystals, which seem to come alive in their hands and inspire creative expression in an almost magical way. Designers love their variety, lustre and glamour, and they find them infinitely versatile.” What advice do you have to anybody who wants to create jewellery?
“Knowledge is power. I would always recommend that someone interested in the industry really immerses themselves in it and gains hands on experience. Don’t be afraid to break boundaries and experiment with new applications even those outside of your comfort zone.”
Maison Martin Margiela F_W 13_14 Couture Show, featuring Couture jewellery pieces in collaboration with Swarovski.
“Looking to the future, we’re really excited about our new multi-designer retail concept Cadenzza, which offers designer and branded jewellery and accessories made with Swarovski crystals in a one-stop-shop format. Our range includes pieces by over 60 designers, including Shourouk, Anton Heunis, Mawi and Versace and we launched a brilliant e-commerce site at the end of last year. “In design, innovation is becoming increasingly important as a way of differentiating and bringing new ideas to the market. Technology is also playing a key role, with 3D printing enabling designers to customize and personalize their creations. However, there will always be a place in the industry for the traditional jewellery makers, who offer something unique have perfected their craft.”
What does the future hold for jewellery retail and design?
“In retail the market has already begun to shift from non-branded towards branded jewelry, and whilst non-branded jewelry still makes up the largest portion of the market, the growth rate in branded jewelry is significantly higher.
www.holtsacademy.com
What kind of training would you advise people to take?
“We are so fortunate in the UK that our jewellery design schools are among the best in the world, both at graduate and post-grad level and at a more vocational level.
Atelier Swarovski Pointiage Choker, Emerald
It’s part of Swarovski’s mission to support students and help them to realize their design visions, so three years ago we set up the Swarovski Scholarship programme to build on existing support programmes for emerging design talent at Central Saint Martins But academic degree courses don’t suit everyone, so it’s fantastic that there are schools like Holt’s Academy, which offers more hands on, shorter courses, meaning you can enter the trade sooner.”
S
Atelier Swarovski by Maison Martin Margiela Pendant
www.holtsacademy.com
warovski www.swarovski.com
INDUSTRY INSIGHT
QUICK GUIDE TO JEWELLERY DESIGN
We have asked our Senior Technology Lecturer Jack Meyer and Design Lecturer Sarah Arnold to discuss …
What is jewellery design and why is it important?
Jack:
Jewellery is considered the most intimate form of product design, as it’s worn on the body for potentially a lifetime. It’s also one of the most underestimated forms of design. Inspiration gets transferred through design – it’s best to learn the right techniques to communicate your ideas. The more you know about jewellery, you’ll not only find it easier to make what you want, but you start becoming more aware of the possibilities out there.
Sarah:
Studying design gives you the knowledge and skills needed to develop a collection or bespoke product to a professional standard, either in a company or as a self-employed designer/maker. What is CAD? What is CAM? Why do you need to know CAD / CAM to design jewellery?
CAD design and ring printed in 3D
Sarah:
Computer Aided Design is what it says on the tin! It is an aid for designers to realize their ideas in a three dimensional form. The design can be easily adapted, modified, scaled to create something truly fantastic as well as pre-empting any issues. CAM is the machinery which forms your design so you can hold it in your hands! CAM and CAD are used to translate your sketch ideas.
www.holtsacademy.com
Jack:
Computer-Aided Design - any piece of software which lets you design on a computer. Microsoft Paint, Adobe Photoshop, and Adobe Illustrator are all forms of CAD, but then again so is 3D modelling tools like Rhino, Matrix, or Solidworks. CAM is Computer-Aided Manufacturing. Any machine which takes a design out of CAD and makes it into a physical object. 3D Printing is a specific type of CAM which falls under the category of Rapid Prototyping. Rapid Prototyping (or RP) is designed to be “what you see is what you get”, taking a 3D object off the screen and replicating it at actual size. What is 2D design? What is 3D design? Why do you need to know 2D/3D design to design jewellery?
Sarah:
2D design is a tool using hand held materials such as paper and pencil to sketch design ideas, easily adapt a pattern, composition, construction and alternative colour schemes. It can be used for developing a jewellery collection, one-off commission, a presentation method or instructions for a Goldsmith to follow. It is a method of creating and recording design ideas at speed and adaptability. In your studio, on the bus, in front of the client or in front of the TV!
Jack:
2D design is design in 2 dimensions, such as on paper, 3D design is design in 3 dimensions, such as a physical 3-dimensional object made of clay, cardboard, plastic, or metal. Perhaps surprisingly, 2D design is useful to 3D designers because it’s the simplest and fastest way of visualising designs, and communicating with others your ideas. The more practice you get at visualising your 3D ideas on paper, the better you will be at 3D design.
Sarah Arnold, 2D Design Lecturer Holts Academy teaching What is production management?
Sarah:
A production manager is a co-ordinator between the designer and maker. They ensure the design sketched on paper is made into an item of jewellery within a timescale. In some organisations they also monitor the quality if there are many processes.
Jack:
It’s knowing how to tell manufacturers what to do in such a way that they can understand what you want, using every means at your disposal (drawings, words, models, etc.). It’s a valuable skill any good creative director, production manager, or quality control manager needs on a day to day basis. Why should you study jewellery design at Holts Academy?
Sarah:
The range of industry experience with our tutors is what makes our courses at Holts fantastic! The level 2 allows you to be experimental and creative with a variety of tools and materials and has the integration of traditional rendering skills.
Jack:
Several reasons. First, we’re more focused on professional skills than any other trade school in the UK. Second, our expertise in-house is unmatched. Third, we work hard to adapt our classes to respond to the needs of what the UK jewellery industry really needs in its current and future workforce.
Draft design of engagement ring in 2D by Holts Student Seb Pintea What is a design brief?
Sarah:
A design brief gives you direction and an aim. It is a written testimony of what you plan to achieve - who for, by using what materials, stipulates demographic, inspiration, trends.
Jack:
It’s what you agree with the client that you’ll be making for them.
To book your place on one of our design, CAD or CAD design for production management courses visit: www.holtsacademy.com
www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
ANNOUSHKA DOUCAS Desiner Maker
“
... there is no doubt that technology is going to become more and more important and will revolutionise how jewellery can be developed.
”
I
started to design jewellery 25 years ago when I was looking for a bracelet for myself and couldn’t find what I was looking for! I like to think that my jewellery expresses the personality of the person wearing it both in terms of the design and the way they wear it. I am lucky enough to have travelled a lot and inevitably I am influenced enormously by that, whether it be architecture, markets, the beach – and I also inherited a wonderful collection of eclectic jewellery which often sparks an idea.
www.holtsacademy.com
Having never thought that jewellery design would be my career, I did not learn to sketch and if I had time, even now I would really like to! My first job was working for my Godfather and I learnt an enormous amount from him about attention to detail, and there is no question that it has been a phenomenal influence on my approach to designing jewellery. Making jewellery is a surprisingly intricate process and requires lots of patience and tenacity – so I think it is important to be passionate about it. I think it is important that people know basic bench skills at the very least as it helps you to understand jewellery at a level where your decisions are better informed. I also think even basic sketching (something I am not very good at!) is very important in order to express your ideas clearly. It is the equivalent of note taking! The education in the UK excels at nurturing creative thinkers with an emphasis on personal expression and individuality. With the advent of 3D printing and scanning there is no doubt that technology is going to become more and more important and will revolutionise how jewellery can be developed.
Gwyneth Paltrow
Rhianna
www.holtsacademy.com
Duchess of Cambridge
CAREERS IN JEWELLERY
Do you want to work in the jewellery industry? By Katie Martin, Skills Academy Officer, Creative and Cultural Skills
D
eciding what to do after education can often be daunting, especially when you can’t find all the information you need to help you make up your
mind.
For those of you thinking about a creative career, half the problem is trying to locate what opportunities are out there, and what experience and skills are needed to get into your chosen area. www.creative-choices.co.uk and www. getintojewellery.co.uk are resources that can help. Both Creative Choices and Get into Jewellery provide careers advice and guidance from people working in the creative and cultural industries. You can browse our articles, find case studies, and post questions to our panel of experts to get the answers you need about working in the creative sector. If you think that working in the jewellery sector might be right for you, GetintoJewellery.co.uk lists lots of jobs, apprenticeship jobs and training opportunities to help you on your way. Want to know more? Sign up to our Creative Choices newsletter on our website and get advice and opportunities direct to your inbox.
www.holtsacademy.com
There are a huge variety of jobs in the jewellery industry - from technical and design roles to broader support roles including business administration, sales and marketing.
Are there actual jobs now? Yes. The results from a very recent industry wide survey led by Creative & Cultural Skills, supported by the Academy and a range of other trade bodies, show that there will be thousands of jobs opening up over the next 5 years. Holts Academy offers a full job brokerage service helping employers find staff and helping our students secure jobs. On average we have at least 50 jobs advertised through us each month. 78% of people who have completed a course or programme with us are employed or self-employed in the industry each year.
Most if not all of these jobs do require a level of further training. You can learn on the job in an Apprenticeship or you can study at one of the specialist jewellery training providers.
What kind of jobs are there?
Jobs in jewellery fall under the following categories: Manufacturing
Designer/Maker
These are the people who actually hand make the jewellery or create the master mould for mass production. This area includes a broad range of roles from Goldsmith and Silversmith to Enameller and Stone Setter, with many other specialisms in between – there are almost 2,000 businesses that would class themselves as manufacturers in the UK employing over 10,000 people. Many employers are still based around traditional ‘Jewellery Clusters’ in Hatton Garden, Birmingham and Sheffield. These roles require professional training and often manufacturers will continue to learn different techniques and skills throughout their careers. Jewellery is one of the few sectors where craftsmanship skills are kept alive – and new techniques are constantly being developed. Some specialist roles include: Plater, Caster, Mounter, Beader, Enameller, Goldsmith, Silversmith, Setter, as well as general Bench Jeweller who will use a variety of techniques to hand make jewellery. These jobs start at a salary of £20,000 and can command up to £50,000 a year.
Lots of micro businesses are classified as designer/makers, this tends to mean that the sole trader (or in some cases businesses employing less than 5 staff on average) designs, manufactures and sells their own creations. A large number of the superstars of the jewellery trade, like the designers we feature in this publication, started out as an independent designer/maker. Many choose to be independent designer/makers as a part time career, or as a way of ensuring the work-life balance they want (for instance those with young children). Designer/Makers need a good level of jewellery manufacture and design knowledge, as well as great business skills. Salaries are hard to quantify but clearly the sky is the limit if you can become an international brand!
RETAIL A hugely diverse part of the industry with everything from independent family run businesses to national and international businesses. Roles available vary from sales, design and commission, management and buying. All of these roles require a level of specialist jewellery knowledge. Retail roles include Retail Sales Assistant, Retail Manager, Jewellery Buyer, Valuer, Diamond Grader, Gemstone Grader, Gemmologist, Buyer, Merchandiser, Gems Dealer, and salaries start at £20,000 to £50,000.
Design
Gemmology A specialist area requiring a very high level of knowledge - there are gemstone and diamond graders, sellers and appraisers. Salaries start at £30,000.
Support roles People often forget that there are a huge number and variety of roles that support every single business – whether Business Administration, Customer Service, IT, Marketing or Management there are many options to work in the industry. These skills are of course transferrable, but the jewellery trade is an exciting and rewarding sector in which to develop these skills. Salaries vary and match those support role salaries in other industries; e.g. from around £20,000 to £50,000.
A big part of the jewellery trade. Whether creating technical drawings for a goldsmith to work from or sketching and rendering a design for a customer’s approval, design roles are found throughout the industry. The UK is a world-leader in fostering design talent. Jewellery is becoming one of the most technology based industries and there are many exciting developments happening with the increasing use of 3D Computer Aided Design and 3D printing. Training is required, either via art schools or degree courses or vocational courses such as the ones offered by Holts Academy. Specific jobs include: CAD / CAM Technician, CAD Designer, Jewellery Designer, Production Manager, Quality Control Manager and Creative Director. Salaries start at around £30,000 to £55,000.
Call our apprenticeship team on 020 7405 0197.
www.holtsacademy.com
CAREERS IN JEWELLERY
HOW DO I CHOOSE A JEWELLERY COURSE? W
ith so many providers offering such a variety of jewellery courses, choosing where and what to study to learn the skills needed to make professional quality jewellery can be confusing. Without regulation on the claims made by many providers it is easy to make the wrong choice. Courses can seem expensive, however choosing the right course is an excellent investment in your future. (Accredited vocational qualifications are free to students aged 1618, older students may qualify for some funding or for a Government student loan depending on age and circumstances). Our advice? Read on‌
If you want to work in the jewellery industry, as an employee or for yourself, you need industry recognised and nationally accredited training. Providers like Holts Academy who work with the trade and awarding bodies such as City & Guilds, create accredited courses mapped carefully to the skills you need to work professionally. Our courses are also endorsed by the British Jewellery Association.
www.holtsacademy.com
Study somewhere that is monitored by OFSTED, is Government endorsed and is on the Register of UK Training Organisations – not only does this mean that the provider has to have a huge support structure in place it also means that all staff have to be CRB checked and qualified to teach and assess your work. It also means that student loans, bursaries or even government funding is available to students.
Study somewhere with top of the range professional facilities, small class sizes, teaches the practical skills you need, and offers bench facilities for you to practice.
Whatever the course duration, study somewhere with strong industry links. Holts Academy can give you access to industry stars via seminars, award ceremonies that are a focus for the industry, the opportunity to show and sell at professional events or pop up shops, or live projects with real companies that help propel you towards your goals.
Check out the tutors. If they don’t make the sort of jewellery you see being sold in shops or at professional jewellery shows, how can they teach you how to get there? Holts Academy prides itself on its amazing tutors. In fact we have some of the country’s best experts, award winners and practicing masters.
Finally. If you can’t see what you think you need, ask. A good training provider will be able to offer advice or tailored courses, a great one will have no problem referring you elsewhere if there is a better fit of course for your needs. For more information about our jewellery, design and business short courses and vocational qualifications, visit www.holtsacademy.com or call 020 7405 0197.
Places that fulfil some or all of the above include: • • • • • •
Holts Academy The Goldsmiths Institute GIA NAG GemA Birmingham School of Jewellery
Call our team on 020 7405 0197.
www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
ALEX MONROE
Designer Maker
“
... I just make what I like and because I love it I want to share it with other people ...
L
”
ondon based jewellery designer Alex Monroe, has been designing and making jewellery for over 25 years. Strongly inspired by nature and British eccentricity, Alex’s jewellery is elegant with a whimsical charm that makes it very much his own.
Shrimp Close
What advice would you give to anyone wishing to become a successful jewellery designer-maker? Should they study to improve technical skills? Business and marketing? Design? Should they work for someone else initially?
Why do people invest such a relatively large amount of money in a piece of jewellery?
The problem is that you need all the above. To run your own business you need to be an all-rounder, and if you’re not great at one particular aspect you should accept it and get help in that area. I think it’s a great idea to work in a shop for a while. You get to understand what customers are looking for, how they value jewellery and why they buy it. It’s this exchange on which everything else hangs.
Well… money is relative. We sell a necklace for say £130. I met a woman in Liberty who had a very normal sort of a job, and she really wanted this particular necklace. So every time her mates went for a night out she stayed in and put twenty quid in a jam jar. After a month she'd saved enough for the necklace and she came into the shop with the cash still in the jar! It was important to her so she saved up and bought it. A night out is a laugh but you can do it any time and it doesn't last. An object you love and have really saved up for is a wonderful thing.
You now sell your jewellery all over the world and you have a fabulous reputation. How did you build your brand so well?
If you could start over again, what course would you have taken that would have helped you at the beginning?
I’ve been very lucky! I just make what I like, and because I really love it I want to share it with other people so it never felt like I am selling. Also I stuck at it, I think I’m too stupid to do anything else! And I guess I’m lucky to have the right skill set, I even quite enjoy doing the accounts! How important is it to keep true to your own vision and to what extent do you need to adapt to fashion or trends?
It’s all important. The only unbreakable rule; do you own thing. If you start following other people it means you’re already behind so give up. If you have your eyes open, what you do ought to be contemporary without you having to think about it.
I think I had it easy. I did a great course and then I did a business course at the RCA so I couldn't hope for better. It was much easier in those days. And finally what advice would you give any young person thinking about a creative career?
Enjoy it! It's really fun but blooming hard work. And remember, you're in charge, don't let it take over and start to rule you. It's only a job, it ought to be fun!
www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
BOODLES Jewellers and Retailers
J
ewellers since 1798, Boodles is an exciting British fine jeweller with a truly individual personality and a committed focus to achieving excellence in all facets of design, craftsmanship & service. Michael Wainwright, Managing Director of this family run company gives us a couple of tips about becoming a jewellery designer:
“Our approach at Boodles is friendly and inclusive without diminishing the wonder and cache of the fine jewels we create and we are continuing to grow our reputation as leading experts in the world of exquisite handmade jewels. The future for jewellery design is very strong as it is a key area that differentiates a brand.” “Train or study either a degree / vocational qualification in a wellknown recognised design-focussed degree course or qualification, or on an apprenticeship. Always make things to the highest standard you can achieve and be original and inventive.”
www.holtsacademy.com
CAREERS IN JEWELLERY
Vocational Qualifications vs. A Levels Choose a vocational qualification instead
D
eciding on your career path from an early age can often seem a difficult choice to make. You definitely need English, Maths and Science or ICT GCSEs or the equivalent functional skills qualification whatever job you go for, but if you prefer more creative, practical or technical subjects and would like to work rather than go to university, then consider taking a vocational qualification.
What is a vocational qualification? A vocational qualification is a recognised and accredited qualification like a GSCE or A Level but one that gives you actual skills needed by a particular job (vocation). Vocational qualifications are usually Diplomas and (depending on the level) they are equivalent to GCSEs or A Levels. Vocational qualifications are usually far less academic than GCSEs/ A Levels, they teach practical skills and are not necessarily taught in a classroom but often in a workshop or studio environment.
old. As with university education, if you decide to pursue a vocational qualification route past the age of 19 the government will give you a loan which you only have to pay back only once you earn a certain amount.
The benefits of vocational courses are that they are hands on and highly practical programmes that get you ready for the workplace, helping to propel your career and give you a real advantage over other candidates for job vacancies. A good vocational qualification provider will give you access to job vacancies and specific careers advice.
In the time is takes to complete A levels at sixth form or College following a vocational route instead can see students already in employment, still gaining A level equivalent qualifications but also benefitting from much needed experience.
You can take vocational qualifications at any stage, however the government ensures that they are completely free, like school, if you are under 19 years
Sixth form of general College courses such a A Levels:
Gain Qualifications Progression to University Academic study with exams
Holts Academy is the UK’s first and largest education provider of vocational qualifications and apprenticeships in all aspects of the jewellery trade – we provide the pathway into so many exciting careers.
So let’s explore some courses and help you decide what’s right for you…
Holts Academy Vocational Programmes:
Gain Qualifications Progression to University Mix of Academic and Practical study Fast track to your chosen career Gain actual working experience of the job you want If on an Apprenticeship – earn a salary whilst studying Guaranteed Job Interviews
Call our vocational qualification team on 020 7405 0197.
www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
“
ELIZABETH GAGE
...I had no idea where anything would lead to I just went with the flow ...
”
W
ith her bold use of colour, innovative techniques and the sheer audacity of her designs, Elizabeth Gage has created some of the world’s most inspiring jewels. A friend of Holts Academy, Elizabeth shares her insight on how she creates her beautiful pieces… “Since I was a little girl I used to make things with my hands. I saw wonderful jewels of Catherine the Great and I thought how wonderful it would be to make jewels of such beauty. I went straight from college out into the big wide world and grabbed every opportunity I could to excel professionally. I had no idea where anything would lead to I just went with the flow. I love the strong colours of beautiful stones; I am a vibrant person and my jewellery reflects the strength and passion I have for life. I listen to what the stones tell me to do with them, it is the first idea that comes to me that I usually go with. I draw inspiration from Nature and the things I surround myself with. I got a lot of inspiration from museums in the early days. It helps to have a passion for jewels, but every individual needs to find their own path and follow their individual journey. We make everything in Britain, there are some very talented goldsmiths, enamellers, and associated craftspeople that enable us to create such special pieces. It’s up to us to make our own future. If we try harder because we are passionate about what we do, we automatically create a better future. There are so many options available to people currently; the choice could be seen as a little baffling! Options from the traditional apprenticeships through to a Masters Degree offer opportunities for every path within the industry. Depending on the person different avenues of education will apply, for someone that wants to take a fully practical route an apprenticeship would suit whereas someone who wants more of a general role may want to investigate the ND or HND or vocational routes or even a customised programme of courses. Everyone has different needs and different ways of learning so investigate all the options before deciding! In my view the broader the initial knowledge of the industry the better as you can then find your path and specialise in a specific area of knowledge.
www.holtsacademy.com
CAREERS IN JEWELLERY
Degree alternatives & Postgraduate Vocational Top-Ups C
an college really compete with University Degrees? Wholeheartedly, YES ! With vastly more contact time (time with a lecturer) and outcome-focused programmes College courses offer a hands-on, highly technical curriculum matched to employer’s needs. With lower fees than university and in most cases a quicker entry route to the labour market, such provision often beats a degree hands down. Employers routinely complain that graduates often lack the technical, practical and business skills to answer their needs. Holts Academy train many graduates each year, helping them to topup and fill-in the knowledge and skills gaps that degrees often leave.
Holts Academy is currently developing a degree with a point of difference – a ‘vocational degree’. Expected to launch in 2015 the degree will offer a limited number of people a year the chance to study jewellery manufacture, design and production skills to a professional standard. In the interim Holts Academy has developed a bridge course that offers those studying degrees elsewhere the chance to have full access to our expertise, curriculum and staff, professional jewellery workshops and equipment for an annual fee, allowing degree students to top-up their degree and fill-in the gaps. The Vocational Jewellery Master curriculum is carefully matched to the skills that hundreds of UK Jewellery Industry employers say university graduates lack.
www.holtsacademy.com
Degree Alternative or Post Grad Vocational Jewellery Master Top Up What you get: Guaranteed internship, work experience or personal support to secure a job A dedicated premises in the heart of Hatton Garden with exclusive use Industry and Nationally recognised qualifications to Level 4 (HN equivalent) Dedicated industry expert tutors AND much more “contact time” than University Small class sizes Live industry projects All tools, materials and equipment Access to industry stars via our Evening With Programme Guaranteed application to our Degree programmes commencing 2016 or support in applying to other Universities A graduation show at a professional event e.g. New Designers or IJL The option to bolt on additional courses during the summer break including our highly acclaimed Enterprise course for those looking towards self-employment Preferential enrolment and 50% discount on all the Academy professional short courses Support in funding and securing accommodation The “London Experience”
What you will learn: The Basics:
Filing, piercing, sawing and soldering. Working in Silver. Working in Gold. Working in Platinum. Wax Carving. Gemstone Identification. Diamond Grading. Metallurgy.
The Specialist Skills:
Enamelling. Hand Engraving. Setting. Polish & Finishing. CAD Design and Rapid Prototyping. Casting. Repairs and Rectification of Jewellery. Laser Welding.
Design:
2D Design with Adobe Photoshop / Illustrator. 3D CAD using Rhino and Matrix. Design to Production. Design to Development. Design to a Price Point. Design for Mass Market. Technical Drawing. Sketching and Rendering.
Business Skills: Costing & Pricing. Creating a Bespoke & Commercial Collection. Exhibiting & Visual Merchandising.
For more information refer to the centre page pull out course guide. Call: 020 7405 0197
www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
THEOFENNELL
T
heo Fennell Jewellery is now a global brand much worn by superstars like Elton John, David and Victoria Beckham and Naomi Campbell. Theo Fennell jewellery has inspired and influenced jewellery designers throughout the world. Theo started his career as an apprentice in Hatton Garden. An old friend of Holts Academy, Theo Fennell gave us an exclusive interview about his career, his inspirations and his advice‌
Why did you want to make jewellery?
I did portraiture at art school and then got an (apprentice) job with a very fine silversmiths called Edward Barnard, long since gone, but discovered there that I loved designing silver and, later, jewellery; also it suited my miniature approach to things. I also love working with a team of craftsmen to produce something really special. You started as an apprentice in Hatton Garden, how valuable was your apprenticeship in helping you start your career?
Working with and around craftsmen gives you a healthy respect for their brilliance and helps you understand how to achieve what you are looking for. Also, immersing yourself in the traditions of the art tends to steer you away
from the more fashion-conscious areas‌.unless you want to be a costumejewellery designer and there is nothing wrong in that. Spend time watching, asking questions and soaking it all up, the craft side, the presentation side and the business side. Craftsmen are the most generous people in the world and they still have the spirit of the trade that first persuaded me to get involved. I wish I had taken some of this advice rather than blundering around trying to work everything out from scratch! What does your jewellery say about you?
I hope it demonstrates the multitude of different things and interests that inspire me to produce something original and that seems to produce a very British quirkiness. Of course, I may be wrong!
www.holtsacademy.com
“
Don’t follow trends and find your own voice. When you are convinced that it is you reflected in your work you are almost there.
”
Where do you find inspiration when you are creating jewellery collections?
From everywhere, architecture, gardens, books, music, pictures and just keeping my eyes and mind open. I sketch all the time; not just jewellery but people and places and something always seems to come out of these drawings. What advice do you have to anybody who wants to create jewellery?
Learn everything you can about the mysteries of the trade, how things are made, all the materials and techniques available and, therefore, what is possible. Remember that jewellery is to be worn and should be full of sentiment and originality and, of course, beautifully made. What makes UK jewellery designers special?
Well, there is a long tradition of invention and craftsmanship here. The best tend to have real originality of concept and approach. There is a wit and subtlety to some and overt theatricality to others….I would like to think that we produce both. This is seldom found abroad where jewellery has become, to a large extent, a fashion accessory or a statement of wealth rather than of personality and style. What does the future hold for jewellery retail and design?
I think everyone with a sense of style is looking for more individual pieces and something that reflects their own sentiment. There has been a proliferation of ‘fashionable’ jewellery that doesn’t really show any emotion or originality of design so, I believe, the future will be much more about smaller, more dedicated jewellers, as it was in the golden periods, with beautifully made and conceived pieces.
www.holtsacademy.com
What kind of training would you advise people to take?
Learn as many skills as possible. Even if you are not going to make the jewellery yourself, you must learn all you can about how to make it and all the materials and what is possible with them. You must be able to draw well enough to make yourself understood. Don’t follow trends and find your own voice. When you are convinced that it is you reflected in your work you are almost there. There are a thousand people who call themselves jewellery designers who do not have this knowledge or skill. They just become a PR exercise and will be found out sooner or later. Ask people with experience for help and immerse yourself in the history and culture of jewellery; see every exhibition and understand what a noble craft you are becoming involved in. What is your secret talent?
Singing old, croaky songs to the guitar…… and, of course, ballet dancing (!)
T
heo Fennell www.theofennell.com
www.holtsacademy.com
Short Courses 2014 Below you will find our unrivalled range of Short Courses
Intro To… courses are a great way for you to discover more about a subject, meet the tutor and discuss what you’re trying to achieve. We can help you work out which courses and levels are best for you Beginners … courses are a great starting point for those new to making jewellery or starting out with a new skill or specialism
Intermediate … courses are ideal for those with some existing skills
wishing to work towards an increasingly level of technical difficulty Advanced ... courses are for professional development and suit those who are already practicing to a trade standard Masterclasses … are intensive courses offered by industry stalwarts
Jewellery Making & related Short courses Subject
Level
Course Title
Price per day
Duration
Time
Dates
Days of week
Tutor
Enamelling
Intro to
Intro to Enamelling
£37
2.5 hrs
2.30-5pm
7th March 2014 21st March 2014
Friday
Regina Aradesian
Beginners
Enamelling for Beginners (+)
£199
2 days
10am-3pm
26th and 27th April 2014 17th and 18th May 2014
Weekend
Regina Aradesian
Intermediate
Enamelling Intermediate (+)
£199
2 days
10am-3pm
7th & 8th June 2014
Weekend
Regina Aradesian
Advanced
Enamelling Advanced (+)
£399
3 days
10am-3pm
28th- 29th June & 5th July 2014
Weekend
Regina Aradesian
Masterclass
1:1 Enamelling Masterclass
£499
1 day
On demand
On demand
Regina Aradesian
Intro to
Intro to Polishing & Finishing
£37
2.5 hrs
11am -1.30pm 11am -1.30pm 11am -1.30pm
14th March 2014 28th March 2014 4th April 2014
Friday Friday Friday
Nicholas Yiannarakis
Beginners
Polishing & Finishing for Beginners (+)
£199
2 days
Intro to
Intro to Stringing
£37
2.5 hrs
10.30am – 1pm 10.30am – 1pm
Polishing & Finishing
Stringing
Hand Engraving
Silver Jewellery Making
Fashion & Costume Jewellery
May - June 12th March 26th March
Nicholas Yiannarakis Weds Weds
Sunny Warrington
Beginners
Stringing for Beginners
£199
2 days
11am – 4pm
2nd and 9th April
Weds
Sunny Warrington
Intermediate
Stringing Intermediate
£199
2 days
11am – 4pm
14th and 21st April
Weds
Sunny Warrington
Intro to
Intro to Hand Engraving
£37
2.5 hrs
6-8.30pm 6-8.30pm
26th February 2014 5th March 2014
Wednesday (evening) Wednesday (evening)
Ruth Anthony
Beginners
Hand Engraving for Beginners (+)
£199
2 days
10-5pm 6-9pm
12th and 13th March 19th/ 26th March and 2nd/9th April 2014
Wed/Thurs Wednesday (evening)
Ruth Anthony
Intermediate
Hand Engraving Intermediate (+)
£199
2 days
10-5pm 6-9pm
30th April and 1st May 2014 30th April and 7th/14th March and 21st May 2014
Wed/Thurs Wednesday (evening)
Ruth Anthony
Advanced
Hand Engraving Advanced (+)
£399
3 days
10-5pm
8th, 9th and 10th October 2014
Wed/Thurs
Ruth Anthony
Advanced
Hand Engraving for Enamelling
£399
3 days
10-5pm 6-9pm
7th and 8th May 2014 28th May, 4th, 11th and 18th June 2014
Wed/Thurs Wednesday (evening)
Ruth Anthony
Masterclass
1:1 Engraving Masterclass
£399
1 day
On demand
On demand
On demand
Ruth Anthony
Intro to
Intro to Silver Jewellery Making
£37
2.5 hrs
6-8.30pm 6-8.30pm 11am-1.30pm 11am-1.30pm
19th March 2014 26th March 2014 14th March 2014 28th March 2014
Wednesday (evening) Wednesday (evening) Friday Friday
Beginners
Silver Jewellery Making For Beginners (+)
£199
2 days
6-9pm 10am-4pm
1st, 8th, 15th and 22nd April 2014 25th April and 2nd May 2014
Wednesday (evening) Friday
Intermediate
Silver Jewellery Making Intermediate (+)
£199
2 days
6-9pm 10am-4pm
29th April, 6th, 13th and 20th May 2014
Tuesday (evening) Friday
Advanced
Silver Jewellery Making Advanced (+)
£399
3 days
6-9pm 10am-4pm
3rd, 10th, 17th, 24th June and 1st and 8th July 2014 6th, 13th and 20th June 2014
Tuesday (evening) Friday
Intro to
Intro to Fashion & Costume Jewellery
£37
2.5 hrs
6-8.30pm 6-8.30pm 11am-1.30pm
12th March 2014 19th March 2014 16th April 2014
Wednesday (evening) Wednesday (evening) Wednesday
Margaret Hart
Beginners
Fashion & Costume Jewellery for Beginners
£199
2 days
6-9pm 10am-3pm
2nd, 9th, 16th and 23rd April 2014 14th and 15th May 2014
Wednesday (evening) Wed/Thurs
Margaret Hart
Intermediate
Fashion & Costume Jewellery Intermediate
£199
2 days
6-9pm 10am-3pm
30th April, 7th, 14th and 21st May 2014 21st and 22nd May 2014
Wednesday (evening) Wed/Thurs
Margaret Hart
Advanced
Fashion & Costume Jewellery Advanced
£399
3 days
6-9pm
28th May, 4th, 11th, 18th and 25th June and 2nd July 2014
Wednesday (evening)
Margaret Hart
www.holtsacademy.com
Short Courses 2014 Design Short Courses Subject
Level
Course Title
Price per day
Duration
Time
Dates
Days of week
Tutor
2D Design
Intro to
Intro to 2D Design Software
£37
2.5 hrs
10am-2.30pm 4pm-6.30pm 10am-2.30pm 4pm-6.30pm
28th March 2014 28th March 2014 25th April 2014 25th April 2014
Friday Friday Friday Friday
Jack Meyer
Beginners
2D Design for Beginners (Adobe Photoshop)
£199
2 days
9.30am-5.30pm 9.30am-5.30pm
28th and 29th May 2014 4th and 5th June 2014
Wed/Thurs Wed/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Intermediate
2D Design Intermediate (Adobe Illustrator)
£199
2 days
9.30am-5.30pm
11th and 12th June 2014
Wed/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Advanced
2D Design Advanced (Adobe Illustrator)
£399
3 days
9.30am-5.30pm
18th, 19th and 25th June 2014
Wed/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Masterclass
1:1 2D Masterclass
£399
1 day
On demand
On demand
On demand
Jack Meyer
Intro to
Intro to 3D CAD
£37
2.5 hrs
10am-2.30pm 4pm-6.30pm
28th February 2014 28th February 2014
Friday Friday
Jack Meyer
Beginners
CAD for beginners
£199
2 days
9.30am-5.30pm 9.30am-5.30pm
26th and 27th March 2014 2nd and 3rd April 2014
Weds/Thurs Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
3D CAD
Design
Intermediate
CAD - Rhino Intermediate
£199
2 days
9.30am-5.30pm
7th and 8th May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Intermediate
CAD - Matrix Intermediate
£199
2 days
9.30am-5.30pm
16th and 17th April 2014
Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Advanced
CAD - Rhino Advanced
£399
4 days
9.30am-5.30pm
14th,15th, 21st and 22nd May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Advanced
CAD - Matrix Advanced
£399
4 days
9.30am-5.30pm 9.30am-5.30pm
23rd, 24th, 30th April and 1st May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Masterclass
1:1 3D CAD Masterclass
£750
1 day
On demand
On demand
On demand
Jack Meyer
Intro to
Intro to generating concepts / Mood board / Trend & Market Analysing / understanding a Brief
£37
2.5 hrs
10am-12.30pm 10am-12.30pm
7th March 2014 28th March 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderson
Beginners
Generating concepts & design Ideas for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
14th and 15th April 2014
Wed/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Intermediate
Generating concepts & design Ideas Intermediate
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
9th and 10th June 2014
Wed/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Advanced
Design Advanced
£399
3 day
10am-5pm
7th, 8th and 9th July 2014
Mon/Tues/Weds
Sarah Arnold
Masterclass
Jewellery Design Masterclass
£650
1 day
On demand
On demand
On demand
Jennifer Bloy
Masterclass
Stone Presentation Painting
£399
1 day
On demand
On demand
On demand
Jennifer Bloy
Design to Production
Masterclass
Conception to Creation – Design, Wax Caring, Casting and Finishing
£1200
9 days
On demand
On demand
On demand
Jennifer Bloy
Design Development
Intro to
Intro to developing design ideas, ‘Soft & Hard thinking’
£37
2.5 hrs
2-4.30pm 2-4.30pm
7th March 2014 28th March 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderso
Beginners
Developing design ideas, ‘Soft & Hard thinking’ for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
7th and 8th April 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Intro to
Intro to pricing and designing to a price point
£37
2.5 hrs
10am-12.30pm 10am-12.30pm
14th March 2014 4th April 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderson
Beginners
Pricing and designing to a price point for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
28th and 29th April 2014
Mon/Tues
Sarah Arnold
Intermediate
Pricing, designing for the mass market & designing to a price point Intermediate
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
16th and 17th June 2014
Mon/Tues
Sarah Arnold
Intro to
Intro in designing for mass and bespoke market and Production methods
£199
2.5 hrs
2-4.30pm 2-4.30pm
14th March 2014 4th April 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderson
Beginners
Designing for mass and bespoke market & Production methods for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
12th and 13th May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Intro to
Intro to creating technical drawing
£37
2.5 hrs
10am-12.30pm 10am-12.30pm
21st March 2014 11th April 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderson
Beginners
Creating technical drawing for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
19th and 20th May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Intermediate
Technical Drawing intermediate
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
23rd and 24th June 2014
Mon/Tues
Sarah Arnold
Intro to
Intro to sketching and rendering using traditional skills
£37
2.5 hrs
2-4.30pm 2-4.30pm
21st March 2014 11th April 2014
Friday Friday
Karlin Anderson
Beginners
Sketching and rendering using traditional skills for Beginners
£199
2 days
10am-5pm
2nd and 3rd June 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Intermediate
Sketching and Rendering intermediate
£399
2 days
10am-5pm
30th June and 1st July 2014
Mon/Tues
Sarah Arnold
Design to a price point
Design for Mass Market
Technical Drawing
Sketching & Rendering
www.holtsacademy.com
Short Courses 2014 Gemmology & Gemstones Subject
Level
Course Title
Price
Duration
2014 Start Dates
Diamonds
Intro to
Intro to Diamond Grading
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov
Beginners
Diamond Grading for Beginners
£199
2 days
Aug, Oct From 2015
Gemstones
Pearls
Advanced
Diamond Grading Advanced
£399
3 days
Masterclass
Diamond Masterclass with Graham Tom
£399
2 days
Intro to
Intro to Gem Identification
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov
Beginners
Gem Identification for Beginners
£199
2 days
Oct
Advanced
Gem Identification Advanced
£399
3 days
From 2015
Intro to
Intro to Coloured Stone Grading
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov
Beginners
Coloured Stone Grading for Beginners
£199
2 days
Aug, Oct
Advanced
Coloured Stone Grading Advanced
£399
3 days
From 2015
Masterclass
Gemstone Masterclass with Graham Tom
£399
2 days
Intro to
Intro to Pearls
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov
Beginners
Pearls for Beginners
£199
2 days
Sept
Advanced
Pearls Advanced
£399
3 days
From 2015
Business & Enterprise Professional Development Course Title
Price
Duration
Time
Dates
Days of week
Tutor
Business Planning
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
24th and 25th Feb 10th and 11th March
Mon/Tues
Chrissie Bolger
Buying
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
17th March
Wednesday
Chrissie Bolger
Finance
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
24th April
Thursday
Dean Shepherd
Customer Service & Complaint Resolution
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
3rd March
Monday
Chrissie Bolger / Natalia Schroder
Managing People
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
26th February
Wednesday
Chrissie Bolger
Marketing and Market Research
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
10th March
Monday
Rebecca Black
Visual Merchandising
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
27th March
Thursday
Natalia Schroder
Running a Business
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
31st March
Monday
Chrissie Bolger
Selling, Promoting & Exhibiting
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
9th April
Wednesday
Chrissie Bolger
Using online, Digital & Social Media as a business tool
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
10th April
Thursday
Rebecca Black
Developing your website
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
17th April
Thursday
Rebecca Black
Online selling and payment
£190
1 day
10am-4pm
6th May
Tuesday
Rebecca Black
10am-4pm
23rd April
Wednesday
Rebecca Black
Marketing and Branding
£190
1 day
Enrol on all modules “Creative Enterprise”
£1200
11 days
March, September
Insight Programmes Course Title
Price
Duration
2014 Start Dates
Understanding the Jewellery Industry
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Jewellery Careers
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
History of Jewellery
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understanding Precious Metals and Hallmarks
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understanding Diamonds
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understanding Coloured Gemstones
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understanding Pearls
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understand the Design Process
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understand the Manufacture Process
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understand the Wholesale Environment
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understand the Retail Environment
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Understanding CAD
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
Jewellery Trends
£37
2.5 hrs
May, Oct
www.holtsacademy.com
Vocational Qualifications and Professional Development (Retail) Courses 2014 Retail Workforce Professional Development Subject
Course Title
DURATION
PRICE
TIME
DATES
DAYS OF WEEK
TUTOR
3rd March 2014
Monday
Natalia Schroder
(SHORT
COURSES) Visual Merchandising (+)
Store Fronts and Window
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
In store Display
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
4th March 2014
Tuesday
Natalia Schroder
Stock, Security & Loss Prevention (+)
Security, Stock Control and Loss Prevention
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
11th March 2014
Tuesday
Natalia Schroder
Diamond Grading
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
24th March 2014
Monday
Natalia Schroder
Diamonds – the 4cs
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
1st April 2014
Tuesday
Natalia Schroder
Repairs, alterations, sizing & Care and Cleaning
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
14th April 2014
Monday
Natalia Schroder
Metals, Plating & Hallmarks
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
15th April 2014
Tuesday
Chrissie Bolger/Natalia Schroder
Product Knowledge (+)
Sales and Sale Maximisation (+)
Buying (+)
Watches
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
8th April 2014
Tuesday
Chrissie Bolger
Pearls Identification & Grading
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
7th April 2014
Monday
Natalia Schroder
7 Steps to selling & Features & benefits
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
22nd April 2014
Tuesday
Natalia Schroder
Upselling & Cross Selling
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
28th April 2014
Monday
Natalia Schroder
Customer Relations, Rapport & The Sales Mentality
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
29th April 2014
Tuesday
Natalia Schroder
Rapport & Enhancing the customer experience
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
6th May 2014
Tuesday
Chrissie Bolger/Natalia Schroder
Customer Service & Complaint resolution
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
12th May 2014
Monday
Chrissie Bolger/Natalia Schroder
Market Analysis, Ethical & environmental and the supply chain
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
13th May 2014
Tuesday
Chrissie Bolger/Natalia Schroder
Trend Forecasting
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
10th March 2014
Monday
Chrissie Bolger/Natalia Schroder
Costing and Pricing
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
18th March 2014
Tuesday
Business Planning
2 Days
£380
10am-4pm
24th and 25th Feb 10th and 11th March
Monday & Tuesday
Chrissie Bolger
Marketing & Market Research
1 Day
£190
10am–4pm
10th March 2014
Monday
Rebecca Black
Using online, digital & social media as a business tool
1 Day
£190
10am-4pm
10th April 2014
Thursday
Rebecca Black
CAD for Retailers
2 Days
£199
9.30am–5.30pm 9.30am–5.30pm
26th and 27th March 2014 2nd and 3rd April 2014
Weds/Thurs Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Adobe Photoshop for Retailers
2 Days
£199
9.30am–5.30pm 9.30am–5.30pm
28th and 29th May 2014 4th and 5th June 2014
Weds/Thurs Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Adobe Illustrator for Retailers
2 Days
£199
9.30am–5.30pm
11th and 12th June 2014
Weds/Thurs
Jack Meyer
Sketching and rendering by hand for Retailers
2 Days
£199
10am-5pm
2nd and 3rd June 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Creating technical drawings for Retailers
2 Days
£199
10am-5pm
19th and 20th May 2014
Weds/Thurs
Sarah Arnold
Business (+)
Design (+)
Vocational Qualifications Starting Before September 2014 Subject
Level
Course Title
Start Date
End Date
Sessions
Cost
16 - 18 Years
19+ Years old
Concessions
Non EU Int
Jewellery Manufacture and Design
Beginners
Level 2 Jewellery Manufacture & Design Diploma (SQA)
3rd March 2014
9th September 2014
Monday & Tuesday 9:30 – 17:30
£4000
£0
£1357
£0
£4000
27th March 2014
11th June 2014
Wednesday & Thursday 9:30 – 17:30
4th June 2014
27th November 2014
Wednesday & Thursday 09:30 – 17:30 Wednesday & Thursday 09:30 – 17:30
£4000
£0
£2,087
£0
£4000
£1000
£0
£199
£0
£1000
Fashion Jewellery Making & Design
Beginners
Level 2 Fashion Jewellery Making & Design Diploma (City & Guilds)
7th May 2014
20th November 2014
Bootcamp – Apprenticeship & Employability
One level
Bootcamp Level 1 City & Guilds
March 2014
June 2014
May 2014
July 2014
Retail
Beginners
Retail Traineeship City & Guilds Level 2 Diploma
20th May 2014
30th October 2014
Tue, Wed & Thur 09:30 – 17:30
£2000
£0
£700
£0
-
Starting your own creative business
Beginners -intermediate
Creative Enterprise (Aim awards) Level 3 Diploma
22nd April 2014
15th July 2014
Monday & Tuesday 09:30 – 17:30
£3000
£0
£1999
£0
£3000
Student loans, bursary funds and student support funds available
ENROLL NOW FOR SEPTEMBER 2014
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APPRENTICESHIPS
Apprenticeships Are Working for Business In recent years the Government and businesses have come together as never before to try to address the skills gaps between young people wanting to enter the workforce and employers needing skilled recruits. The solution is through offering meaningful apprenticeships. By reviving the apprenticeship model to ensure that apprenticeships result in vocational qualifications, and through financial incentives for employers, apprenticeships have never been more abundant. It really is a win-win opportunity!
Holts Academy matches hundreds of employers and apprentices. We advertise each vacancy, recruit and shortlist candidates. We take care of all the government paperwork and assessments, and fully support employers and apprentice throughout. The apprentice works learning on the job, and usually has to attend college for one day per week for a year. After that they progress to learn more skills and take the next level or integrate as a fully trained member of staff.
The National Apprenticeship Service has research that shows that nearly every employer that takes on an apprentice (96%) reports benefits to their business and that 72% of businesses report improved productivity as a result of employing an apprentice. Other benefits include improved product or service, improved staff morale and better staff retention. The UK jewellery industry has as long history of apprenticeships, in fact the Goldsmiths’ Company have records showing that their first recorded Apprentice in 1547.
Talk to us if you are considering taking on entry level staff, we can give you advice around your specific business needs. Call our apprenticeship team on 0207 405 0197.
Holts Academy offers: Free recruitment of Apprentice. Many training providers and colleges such as Holts Academy also offer a guarantee that if for any reason things don’t work out with your apprentice, they will offer you another candidate. We run an apprentice “boot camp” – through a 12 week programme we ensure that there is a constant stream of work-ready candidates available to take on an apprenticeship role. Hassle free – Holts Academy takes care of all the administration for you.
Apprentices boost productivity by enabling businesses to grow their skills base according to the National Apprenticeships Service. Training the Apprentice offered free of charge for those under 24 years of age. Support in the workplace. Email Apprenticeships@holtsacademy.com or call 0207 405 0197.
A grant of £1,500 to help cover the cost of starting a new apprentice aged 16 to 24 years old.
Call our apprenticeship team on 020 7405 0197.
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APPRENTICESHIPS
What are the benefits of I want to be an Apprentice an Apprenticeship?
I
f you would rather start work than go through university an apprenticeship is one of the best ways to begin earning a living whilst also continuing your studies. It is a fast-track to a career. A great many successful people began as apprentices, from Jamie Oliver to Alan Titchmarsh. In jewellery it has long been one of the best ways to start your career. An apprenticeship is a job and a study programme combined. You will work in a real workplace and learn on the job, but you will have one day’s study per week and will gain a vocational qualification. An apprenticeship lasts for a minimum of one year. Apprenticeships start from the age of 16 onwards and you can apply for an apprenticeship at any age. After the apprenticeship ends, apprentices may earn the equivalent of a graduate’s salary.
A real job A real qualification equivalent to A Levels (Level 3 Apprenticeships) or HNCs (Level 4 Apprenticeships) Earn and learn at the same time Fast Track your career Apprenticeships start all year as jobs become available so there is no ‘start date’ like traditional college courses Even if you already have a job and think you would like the benefits of training that an Apprenticeship gives you, as long as your employee agrees you can sign up for an Apprenticeship Your existing skills and knowledge are recognised and can help you gain a qualification faster You learn at your own pace and get support when you need it Better job security You gain skills and knowledge which can be used across a range of jobs and industries.
Okay so you’ve decided an Apprenticeship is for you? What now? You can apply for one of our many apprenticeship jobs available now, visit www.holtsacademy.com
Improve your chances of getting an Apprenticeship job Join our bootcamp
If you are not yet quite ready to start work or you are trying to get a job but not getting anywhere, then our Boot Camp is for you. It’s a 12 week programme but you can continue to claim benefits if you are on them. We will give you the skills to get an apprenticeship job in any field, not just jewellery. Through a range of fun practical projects as well as a lot of interview practice, one to one career counselling and CV clinics you will get another qualification, a reference, a killer CV and a real job interview. If you are great from the start we will fast track you into an apprenticeship job.
Call 020 7405 0197 for the next Boot Camp start date.
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APPRENTICESHIPS
A GENERATION NOT LOST BUT UNDISCOVERED
By Lee Lucas
A report published in January 2014 by global management consultants McKinsey and much quoted by the press, confirmed what we have all known for some time. That a lack of work skills is contributing to a youth unemployment crisis across the UK and EU that could create a “lost generation”.
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he report, and in fact many other such reports like it, surveyed young But surely the last thing a young person leaving school wants is to sit in yet people, education providers and employers across eight EU countries, another classroom? including the UK, and found a severe skills mismatch. “Rather than stand in front of them telling them things, we looked to popular One third of employers surveyed said that a lack of skills is causing them culture for models of learning that young people respond to. Shows such as major business problems, while 61 per cent said that they were not confident The Apprentice, Dragons Den and Britain’s Next Top Model lead participants they could find enough applicants with the right skills to meet their needs. Too to a certain destination through specific projects and healthy competition and many students are not mastering the basics, the report warns, with employers that’s exactly what we’ve done with Bootcamp”. reporting a particular shortage of “soft” skills such as spoken communications and a lack of work ethic. But does it work? “Our pilot programme shows that it does and we are delighted” Amanda tells us. “Alongside the projects that are designed to improve soft The disconnect is stark; while 74 per cent of education providers said they skills and instil a work ethic, we regularly give our students interview practice were confident their graduates were prepared for work, only 38 per cent of leading to real interviews with real employers. After just two weeks we had young people and 35 per cent of employers agreed. 10% employed and by week six that has increased to 50%, we expect at the end of the programme to have secured employment, apprenticeships or further So how do we close the gap and get training providers, employers and students technical education for everyone”. aligned? Is it possible? “Yes!” according to Amanda Brade of Holts Academy. “We have worked with the trade since our inception in 1999 to match employer Considering this pilot group was made up of those who were long term need to student aspiration so we really understand from the employers side unemployed and those that haven’t had luck securing an interview let alone what they want, and from the student side what they need to do to get a job”. a job, it seems all the more impressive. “These young people have been to a number of ‘employability courses’ through the Job Centres and even other “Many young people cannot get the job they want because they simply aren’t Colleges but nothing like we deliver, nothing that got to the root of the problem ready for work. It’s very frustrating. We see hundreds of applications from - real insight, real experience and the opportunity to practice their soft skills is young people every year who want to work in the industries we serve but only what’s needed for young people to excel” Amanda adds. a small proportion get interviews because the majority cannot demonstrate the skills employers are looking for.” So is there really a ‘lost generation’? Amanda doesn’t think so “to coin a line from a cheesy song, these young people aren’t lost, just undiscovered. Helping This disconnect between young people’s skills and employers needs is why them find their way and solving a recruitment need for employers is hugely Holts Academy created Bootcamp - an intensive highly practical programme rewarding”. which aims to instil 9 core attributes in its candidates: Bootcamps start monthly at Holts Academy and not just for jewellery roles but 1. Communication any career. The courses are run for those aged 16-19 and those over 19. With a 2. Motivation great programme, a killer CV, great experience and guaranteed interviews, it’s 3. Initiative proving to be one way to help bridge the gap between young people and jobs. 4. Problem solving To find out more you can visit a Bootcamp Open Day the first Monday of every 5. Team work month at 10am. Call Holts Academy on 020 7405 0197 for further details or 6. Selling skills to book. 7. Work ethic 8. Punctuality and attendance 9. Personal responsibility Call our apprenticeship team on 020 7405 0197.
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APPRENTICESHIPS
TOYE & CO Apprenticeships – Why Business Needs Them Fiona Toye, Chief Executive
“
Our Company, old as it is, has only preserved and developed our craft skills through apprenticeship -it is essential to the business.
”
B
irmingham based Toye & Co was established in 1685 and holds a Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The Queen as a supplier of Gold and Silver Laces, Insignia and Embroidery. Fiona Toye, Chief Executive, explains why she is a passionate believer in apprenticeships. Craft skills are the UK¹s USP. I have just returned from a menswear trade show in Florence. It is British craftsmanship and style that are the signature of the UK companies showing there, and that is what most of the other companies from elsewhere are aspiring to. There are many young people who do not fulfil their potential in the current school and social environment. They cannot see the relevance of many of the subjects to future work, and so fail to do well. The greatest joy of apprenticeship is taking what appears to be a very ordinary young person with little self-confidence, and encouraging them to discover the very real talents they possess, and achieving for themselves the enormous satisfaction of creating product that is useful, beautiful and lasting.
Master and the apprentice
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For someone who has often been overlooked in the classroom, the mentorship of the older craftspeople, and if it works well, the desire this kindles to do well and exceed expectations and be a fully contributing part of the team, has an enormously positive influence on the young personยนs personal development. The apprenticeship scheme launched by Holts Academy is a great boost for the trade in Birminghamยนs Jewellery Quarter. Birmingham has always produced clever and ingenious people, and we need a scheme like this to re-ignite the interest of the areaยนs young people in the possibilities for them in the Trade. This is good for the young people and rejuvenates the Jewellery Quarter.
T
oye &Co www.toye.com
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JEWELLERY AND CELEBS
CELEBRITY SPARKLE Spotlight on Katie Rowland
J
ewellery design has alwasy been something of a fine line: inseparable from the latest fashions on one side, and rooted in classical design and history on the other. Katie Rowland, the self-proclaimed femme fatale of the jewellery industry, has become an expert at walking that line. Inspired by women from myth, legend and history, her jewellery always keeps up with the latest trends. She took a few moments away from creating to talk to us about where her inspiration comes from, how to be a great designer and why there are some secrets she just won’t tell.
Nicole Scherzinger
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Why did you want to make jewellery?
I was about four when my interest in all things sparkly became apparent. I inherited this crocodile skin jewellery box from my Great Auntie Bea, full of 1940’s diamante and paste jewellery. They were gorgeous pieces! As a tom boy, my Mum would find me up trees in my grubby jeans and t-shirt, wearing a massive diamante necklace! We didn’t have much access to fashion where I grew up in the North, apart from the Clothes Show with Jeff Banks and Princess Diana being on the TV. I was always designing outfits, crowns and jewels for her. She was my childhood icon! I was very creative and studied fine art and graphic design, as I was always making and drawing things when I was growing up. I wasn’t very good at toeing the line and did very little ‘graphic design,’ instead I worked with the fashion designers, photographers and product designers on my course. It was only a matter of time before I started making jewellery, which I did for my end of year show. So looking back, there has always been a love of jewellery in my life. What does your jewellery say about you?
I create adornment which empowers and champions women. The pieces are elegant yet with a distinct fashion edge and dark side. I would say Katie Rowland is the femme fatale of the jewellery industry.
Naomie Harris What advice do you have to anybody who wants to create jewellery?
Where do you find inspiration when you are creating jewellery collections?
All the collections are inspired by powerful and often infamous women from history, myth and literature. I design for women, so it is only natural that I take inspiration from such fabulous characters.
The jewellery industry is a tough one, especially in the current economic climate. You have to be realistic. Alongside all the fun stuff of designing and making, there is a bunch of not so fun stuff such as admin. I definitely suggest looking after the boring stuff as well, as in the long run, it makes your life easier! What makes UK jewellery designers special?
The UK is a cosmopolitan-melting-pot-of-creativity, where there is such inspiration in design and fashion. I am proud to be part of it and it is exciting to see fantastic new UK talent coming through. What does the future hold for jewellery retail and design?
I think there is great scope for the personalisation of goods, particularly as 3D printing is becoming more accessible. What kind of training would you advise people to take?
In terms of jewellery training - definitely work on the bench. It will give you a greater understanding of making and production. It is good to develop your design skills so that you can then translate them to your bench work. Always start with a basic understanding/training of designing and making before moving into CAD, as you will be able to create better pieces based on your practical knowledge. And, don’t forget the boring stuff! Admin, basic accounts, understanding pricing, is a must if you are looking to start a business. If you had one wish for the jewellery sector what would be it?
I find the industry is very male orientated, so it would be good to see the industry championing more females. What is your secret talent? (E.g. sing, move your ears?) Natalie Dorma
It wouldn’t be a secret if I told you...!!
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MANUFACTURE
A SKILLED PROFESSION
M
ost companies in the UK jewellery industry manufacture their own jewellery. Jewellery manufacture is a skilled profession, it encompasses a great many techniques. Even if jewellery is to be mass-produced, a workable prototype needs to be developed. Many jewellers still make everything by hand and designers such as Theo Fennell, Shaun Leane, Stephen Webster, Alex Monro, Bec Astley Clarke, Elizabeth Gage, Swarovski, Beaverbrooks, and Boodles have their own workshops. Jewellery retail shops often provide a repairs service or even a bespoke jewellery making service to provide customers with oneoff pieces to a personal brief. Many people have set up as jewellery designermakers – creating their own designs and pieces and selling them to direct to the public. Even if you want to specialise in designing jewellery, learning manufacturing skills is still very important and ensures that you have the knowledge to ensure the designs you create can be made into actual jewellery pieces.
www.holtsacademy.com
MANUFACTURE
SPOTLIGHT ON Beginner Vocational Diplomas in Making Jewellery: Jewellery Manufacture and Design Diploma (Beginners) Fashion Jewellery and Design Diploma (Beginners) Jewellery Manufacture and Design Diploma (4½ Months, 2 days per week, enrolling all year) covers: Designing jewellery using traditional techniques
Enamelling jewellery
Designing jewellery using Computer Aided Design
Engraving jewellery
The jewellery industry as a career option; its jobs and possibilities
Setting gemstones
Making jewellery by hand
Finishing jewellery using techniques such as polishing
From here you will be able to move on to our level 3 and 4 courses, which will help you refine your skills to an industry standard and specialise in a discipline of your choice. You’ll have access to the latest equipment, a dedicated tutor with years of real industry experience, professional tools, materials, student enrichment programme and any help and support that you’ll require.
Fashion Jewellery Making and Design Beginner Diploma (7th May – 20th November, 2 days per week)
This is a great vocational qualification which will give you a fabulous foundation in creating your own fashion jewellery collection and also will teach you marketing and selling basics. You will learn:
Making Chains and Clasps
Developing Design Ideas
Making Brooches
2D and 3D Design Basics
Product Promotion using Social Media
Interpreting a Client Brief
Creating a Website
Creating Concepts for a Collection
Producing Promotional Materials
Creating Rings with Multiple Settings
Call 020 7405 0197 or visit w w w. h o l t s a c a d e m y. c o m for more information.
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MANUFACTURE
HOCKLEY MINT Gary Wroe, Managing Director, Hockley Mint
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“
I studied for 2 years, 3 lunch times a week – producing designs and started to learn the intricacies of making jewellery items.
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ockley Mint is one of the largest jewellery manufacturing companies in Europe and is based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Hockley Mint manufactures an unrivalled collection of wedding rings, engagement rings, cast components, findings and precision engineered jewellery parts. Gary Wroe, the Managing Director always had a passion for jewellery and is in no doubt that to get into jewellery you need to get skills:
I learnt the basic skills of jewellery making during the time spent at school – I wanted to enrol at the Jewellery School but life took a different twist and I had to get a paying job. I knew I wanted to work in the Jewellery sector and had the good fortune to join the old YTS (Youth Opportunity Program) which was organised by the British Jewellery Association. The area I decided to focus on was lost wax casting and an opening had arisen at Engelhard in Spencer Street – I would be a casting shop hand working under the watchful eye of Alan Sargent. While finding my way around the casting shop I studied at the School of Jewellery creating and few items of jewellery that the time allowed. To help substitute my income I also worked as a glass collector and eventually barman in the not so local pub!. A particular item I created was a “V” shaped silver bracelet, hinged together and a full integrated working clasp hidden in the design. I had made the master and produced the rubber mould so I could cast my pieces. I cleaned the links, pinned the bracelet together and made the hidden clasp. I was extremely proud of my design which featured in the Engelhard newsletter circulated around the world.
Gary Wroe, CEO Hockley Mint
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The finished product
Apprentices at Hockley Mint
Training is hugely important in the development of knowledge and understanding. You are never too old to learn! It needs to be firstly job related to enhance the skills you have. Depending on what your future goals and ambitions are may lead you to different types of study. In my personal life I would love to say singing is my secret talent but my wife wouldn’t! I do get involved in open water swimming – I have swum 3 great North swims at Lake Windermere and 2 at Salford Keys, Manchester. I have a target this year to swim 2 mile at Windermere, 1 mile at Salford and 5.25 mile at Lake Coniston in September
H
Apprentices at Hockley Mint
ockley Mint
www.hockleymint.co.uk
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INDUSTRY INSIGHT
THE JOURNEY OF THE JEWELLERY
Manufacturing Process
Start ! 1 A Designer discusses a
jewellery design with the client, using their drawing and painting skills to take the client’s wishes and turn them into beautiful and descriptive imagery.
2
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or those who haven’t worked with jewellery before, it often comes as some surprise to find out that it can take as many as 9 different people to create a single ring based on an original design. Each of these roles in the jewellery manufacturing process is filled by a specialist, and highlights the many varied disciplines jewellery making requires:
Once the design is approved, manufacturing of the piece begins. This can happen in one of many different routes. In this case, we’ll be using ComputerAided Design (or CAD) to create the model for 3D printing directly into wax for casting. The design will first be made to measure by a CAD Designer. With this CAD model, the modeller can show the client their piece as a fully three-dimensional object, viewable from any angle and distance, and can even take a photorealistic snapshot (called a “rendered image”) of the model before it has been actually produced.
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3
Once the CAD model has been checked, it is sent to a 3D Printing Technician to make a wax for casting.
6 Some gemstones can be
purchased directly from diamond or gem dealers, but on occasion we need a specially made stone. The job of the Gem Cutter (or Lapidary) is to shape gemstones according to either standard measurements or clients wishes.
4 The wax is sent to the
Caster, who transforms it into precious metal using what is called the lost wax casting process. The process works by surrounding the wax with heat-resistant plaster (called investment), melting away the wax, and pouring in molten metal. In this case, platinum was used.
5
The cast ring’s components are cleaned up and assembled by a Bench Jeweller.
If the ring requires engraved details, these are then added directly onto the surface of the ring by an Engraver using specially made engraving tools.
almost... 7
Once the gems and ring are ready, the Stone Setter takes the gems, and sets them into the piece.
8 Finally, to provide
assurance to the client that the piece is made of the highest quality of platinum, the Assay Office adds its stamp onto the piece. This assay mark is a legal requirement for all precious metal sold in the UK.
Finished ! www.holtsacademy.com
BE INSPIRED
STEPHEN WEBSTER An inspirational jeweller gives us advice on becoming a jeweller
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My advice to anyone wanting to work in the trade is to explore the craftsmanship side.
S
�
tephen Webster MBE is one of the most prominent jewellery designers of his generation. Founded upon 38 years of exquisite craftsmanship and fearless creativity, Stephen Webster has evolved into the global luxury jewellery brand of tomorrow.
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'Fly By Night' Couture Earrings set in Rose Gold with Rubies and Black and White Diamonds
My apprenticeship was everything to me because it was my way in to the jewellery trade. For me it was better to come in as a craftsman, because of the type of person I am it was more inspiring and having the technical skills was really crucial. I was intrigued by the legacy of jewellery – the craftsmanship of it. I have always found the possibilities of jewellery extremely exciting and in terms of my greatest influences I had some really good teachers and mentors. After I mastered craftsmanship skills I became fascinated by gemstones – the raw side and how they can be transformed.
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'Fly By Night' Couture Long Finger Ring set in Rose Gold with Rubies and Black and White Diamonds
My “ apprenticeship
was everything to me because it was my way in to the jewellery trade.
”
'Albion Rose' Magnipheasant Drop Earrings with Red Garnet and Amethyst
Somewhere along the way you need to cover everything; understand gemstones and the mechanics of jewellery. Some of my team are fantastically creative and some are craftspeople. Some people are more interested in CAD (computer aided design) I think these days there are different opportunities and you can specialise in design or CAD but I think you need to understand jewellery making and how it works, design courses don’t always cover that. In terms of the reputation of the UK jewellery trade, certainly you have to look beyond these shores as we are a small island. Stephen Webster jewellery is the biggest UK jewellery brand in the US because I have always looked to develop our market abroad. I know when we attend the major jewellery fares in the US our designs always cause a stir - there is something about how we teach over here which is about allowing people to explore their own creativity. This is across the board, in music, fashion and in jewellery. When you say you are from the UK automatically you have people’s attention because of our reputation as style leaders, we punch above our weight. It’s something about the British attitude!
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S
tephen Webster www.stephenwebster.com
'Fly By Night' BatMoth Ring set in Yellow Gold with White Diamonds
My advice to anyone wanting to work in the trade is to explore the craftsmanship side. Art school is great but you don’t learn the actual crafts skills needed, that’s my personal view. Also find a place where you fit. There are opportunities to work for big or small jewellers. My secret skill if you like is writing – I am working on a book which will certainly be about my life in jewellery. And I have just baked a banana bread for the office.
'Albion Rose' Magnipheasant Collar
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CAREERS IN JEWELLERY
JOANNA H A RD Y
it is a very exciting time “forI believe jewellery as there is a thirst for
Jewellery Historian, Auctioneer, Valuer and resident Jewellery Expert on the Antiques Roadshow Joanna also contributes regularly to The Telegraph Luxury Magazine, curates jewellery exhibitions around the world and has written several books.
innovative designs coupled with a growing appreciation and an acceptance
”
I
made jewellery at school when I was fourteen years old and got the bug from then. I did not have any idea that my career path would lead me into the jewellery industry. I just loved the idea of making small intricate items that you could wear. I then went on to art college to do a foundation course and then completed a 3 year Diploma course in Silversmithing, Jewellery and Allied Crafts. I realised at the end of the course that the bench was not for me, but I still wanted to be part of the jewellery industry so I went into the world of diamonds and much later auctions before finally having my own business. Joanna Hardy
As a jewellery historian and expert, jewels that catch my eye and the ones that will become the antiques of the future are those that are well made and unique in design. We have a great pool of talented designers but we need more designers that are talented goldsmiths. I believe it is a very exciting time for jewellery as there is a thirst for innovative designs coupled with a growing appreciation and an acceptance from the end consumer of different materials which makes for an interesting future for jewellery. Training to be a craftsman is never ending. Try and get as much experience from as many craftsmen in the UK and from abroad, so look for courses
that can introduce you to these skilled people. You first must have passion, without passion you will never aim to be the best. Work to your strengths and realise your weaknesses, look and learn from other craftsman and above all have patience, being a great craftsman takes years to achieve. I am constantly reminded of just how lucky I am working in the jewellery industry, but also it is the people that make it special. I see some of the best jewellery and gems in the world which is a privilege. When I discover a gem or jewel that was destined for the charity shop to be worth thousands of pounds, that’s always a special moment… and believe it or not that happens quite often!
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COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT
HOLTS ACADEMY WORKFORCE DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME Incorporating the latest industry research, the Holts Academy Workforce Development Programme is the result of over fifteen years’ experience of working with small and large retailers throughout the country to create responsive training. The Programme consists of almost 40 individual modules which can be tailored to the precise workforce development needs of any business or tailored to sit alongside existing internal training and development. Holts Academy has found that workforce training is most effective when delivered in person - allowing employees the chance to learn through practising skills with immediate individualised feedback from the tutors and peers. The modules are one day each and can be mixed and matched according to the career level of the employees and the needs of the company.
A secret Shopper Service is also offered alongside the training to monitor the implementation of new retail skills, or to help employers identify training needs. The full programme can also result in learners achieving our exclusive Retail Jewellery Diploma– which adds another level of rigour, delivers amazing value for money and gives employees an independently accredited qualification – an added benefit to help with staff recruitment and loyalty. The Workforce Development Programmes have been used successfully by a huge number of jewellery businesses from small independent SMEs to multinational businesses including TKMaxx.
With modules available in Visual Merchandising, Stock, Security & Loss Prevention, Valuation, Product Knowledge, Sales and Sale Maximisation, Customer Services & Complaints Resolution, Relationship Marketing, Market Analysis, Trend Forecasting, Costing and Pricing, Buying, Business Planning, Digital and Social Media, Marketing & Market Research, Management, Understanding the Jewellery Industry, every aspect of running a retail business is covered.
For a full list of the modules we offer please call our Workforce Development Team on 0207 405 0197 or email: workforcedevelopment@holtsacademy.com
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RETAIL
ESpotlight COMMERCE on Bec Astley Clarke Founder and Executive Chairman of Astley Clarke and Holts Academy friend
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y background is in e-commerce – I was Commercial Director at iVillage. co.uk followed by Head of NonRetail Strategy at Tesco.com until I launched Astley Clarke www.AstleyClarke.com in 2006. My vision was and still is to create a Luxury Jewellery Brand with ecommerce at its heart, celebrating design and craftsmanship in Fine Jewellery. I recognised a gap in the market between Bond Street and The High Street for design-lead Fine Jewellery. Additionally, I saw that big luxury jewellery brands were slow to move online and really own the space. Paired with my background in e-commerce and a love for fine jewellery I decided to launch Astley Clarke. Whilst the
“
My vision was and still is to create a Luxury Jewellery Brand with ecommerce at its heart ...
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”
I am obsessed with coloured gemstones and this is certainly reflected by our wide use of coloured stones throughout our collections. We also follow the mantra ‘Go Precious Everyday’ and I am a firm believer in the idea that fine jewellery should be worn day and night, with jeans and a t-shirt or your finest evening dress. I am never without my 18ct grey aquamarine drop earrings or diamond disc pendant. Our fantastic Creative Director Lorna Watson designs all of the pieces in-house at our London Design Studio, helped along by her team of skilled designers. I am very much involved in the whole process, from inspiration to design to creation. I am constantly in the design studio with Lorna brainstorming and coming up with new collection ideas and direction. Lorna and I draw inspiration from travel, nature, culture, art, personal archives and everyday London life which can be seen across our collections; from our Colour collection featuring London Nights and Cappucino coloured enamels to Bolsena, named after my favourite destination in Italy.
What makes UK jewellery designers special?
Their ground-breaking, contemporary design and use of unusual materials; Designers such as Pippa Small, Shaun Leane, Hattie Rickards and Hillier continue to challenge the pre-conceptions of Fine Jewellery design through their wonderfully unique and eclectic collections. What does the future hold for jewellery retail and design?
Strong brands and strong design with unique perspective will always thrive. I am hoping that women increasingly choose to invest in fine jewellery for themselves. What is unique about your brand and what the secret to its success?
We were the first in the online space and have disproved many people who thought it impossible to sell Fine jewellery online. Our brand celebrates exquisite design, coloured gemstones and always has a unique Astley Clarke perspective. What is your secret talent?
I am very good at scrabble
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TECH ‘The future is already here. It is just not evenly distributed” - William Gibson
The Future Is Already Here By Jack Meyer – Senior Tutor and CAD specialist
W
orking with new and constantly developing technology, I often get asked what the future of the jewellery trade will be. Most people, however, are surprised to find out that there are many examples of already available technology being used by retailers and manufacturers right now which sound more like science fiction than reality. Here are a few examples of innovative tech that are already being used in industry right now. TRYING ON JEWELLERY THROUGH A WEBCAM
Depending on whether you play video games, or have children who do, you may have heard of virtual reality or, to be more precise, augmented reality (AR). AR is an engaging way of combining live video with computer-generated data and visualisations something most people will experience everyday - from instore theatre to mobile and home video games such as Wii. Many brands are recognising the benefits of AR and using the emerging technology to captivate consumers both online and in the retail environment.
Holition is a leading digital creative studio specialising in emerging technologies crafting bespoke 3D digital experiences for a growing network of pioneering luxury organisations including De Beers, Boucheron, LVMH, Swatch Group and Gucci Group. Holition has developed a number campaigns for the jewellery industry where people can try on ‘virtual’ jewellery and watches via a webcam and ‘share’ the image by emailing friends or posting on facebook. Additionally the technology enables retailers to show customers products not currently in stock. Holition’s innovative applications involve the creative and comprehensive use of the latest cutting edge technology. www.holtsacademy.com
3D Printing’s growing flexibility // 3D printing is big news. With the proliferation of affordable home 3D printers for hobbyists, it seems to have become the latest trend. However, even now industry is developing this new technology at such a rate that many new developments are not yet public knowledge.
At present I teach CAD (computer aided design) to students to enable them to create 3D images which can be printed by a 3D printer to create a prototype, which can be used for casting so that the jewellery piece can go into production. In the future, these designs might be for the actual jewellery piece.
3D printing directly into silver and gold, without any casting involved. Engineers now call this Rapid Manufacturing as opposed to its ancestor Rapid Prototyping. While only occasionally used for jewellery at the moment, metal sintering has become a very valuable tool for medicine and dentistry, allowing for doctors to scan a patient’s skull in 3D, and actually D print steel or titanium plates to repair injuries which are fitted to the individual patient. As this technology becomes more widespread, it is possible that more precious metal jewellery could be made this way – or perhaps could be fitted to the unique measturements of the client.
Other new materials are being tried seemingly every day. 3D printed ceramics has been growing in popularity and use.
A new generation of machines have appeared which can print in multiple materials at once, such as multiple colours of the same plastic, or even pairing soft rubber with hard plastic.
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Some interesting innovations which have just appeared on the market for 3D printing include:
Scanning is so cheap and easy it’s everywhere //
Social media meets commissioned work //
In the movie Minority Report, there was a scene in which the hero noticed that face scanners were built into just about everything, to the point where he could not go anywhere without being recognised.
Social media has grown and grown over the past few years from its origins in bulletin board technology to an omnipresent force in mainstream media.
Once again science fiction has become reality – face scanning technology has been developed by Facebook so you can be tagged in all the photos you appear in, and one company Affectiva has created face recognition tech that can even read emotions.
Even in the realm of design and commissioned work, there a social media tool called Crowdsourcing, where clients provide a design brief and several designers bid for the contract.
Chip and scan tech is everywhere, from Oyster cards to clothing and to action figures. This technology has revolutionised product tracking and and security (for example Trachtecxh’s RFID based inventory system).
Crowdsourcing sites such as Guru.com and 99Designs.com have already connected companies to a wider selection of potential freelance designers than ever before, opening up entirely new way of finding and winning new business, and expanding into more and more industries every year. Partumis is the first such site devoted to bespoke metal work and design.
There are also a few but growing number of companies which are experimenting with scanning objects, manipulating them, and turning them into 3D printed objects. One example from the jewellery industry is Goldmark Jewellery, who have been experimenting with a service in which they scan an existing engagement ring and design a fitted side band based upon the original ring shape.
Keeping track of what’s coming // It is hard to know what is coming round the corner in the way of new technology and how much of an impact it will have on our lives. At the Academy we consider it to be very important for every student to stay informed as to what’s happening with technology and industry developments, so they can be ready and informed when the next big change to industry comes along.
Words by Jack Meyer
Head Tutor, CAD CAM / Jewellery Design for Production, Holts Academy www.CADJewelleryskills.com
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BIRTHSTONES BY MONTH
Garnet
Amethyst
Aquamarine
Diamond
Emerald
Pearl
January
February
March
April
May
June
While the most popular colour of a garnet is reddish-brown, it comes in other colours such as purple, pink, violet, green, yellow, orange, red, brown, black, and even colourless. Garnet symbolizes passionate devotion, friendship, vitality, and balance.
The stone’s purple tones range from deep, dark violet, to the less coveted pale lavender. The gem’s rich colour is associated with royalty and nobility.
Ruby
Peridot
Sapphire
Opal
July
August
September
October
November
Rubies are said to attract good luck for the wearer. Ancient Hindus believed rubies were a sign of protection from evil. Today, the ruby has come to symbolize love and passion.
The peridot is one of the few gemstones to occur in one colour, naturally – olive green. It is said to symbolise strength, and if set in gold; will protect the wearer from evil dreams.
Sapphires come in a variety of colours, but are mostly associated with blue hues. A sapphire of another colour, like pink, white or yellow, is generally called a fancy sapphire. The blue sapphire represents peace and serenity. It is seen many times in ancient religious writing to symbolize purity, wisdom, loyalty and faith
The opal is the traditional birthstone for October, representing hope and innocence. The name “opal” can mean “to see a change in colour” and is derived from the Latin Opalus, or stone.
Topaz can come in a variety of colours, but the prized Imperial Topaz, adored by Russian Czars, is orange with pink undertones. It has come to symbolise consistency, faithfulness and friendship. Topaz is thought to have healing properties to help breathing disorders, like asthma and tuberculosis.
Aquamarine is a pastel stone that is greenishblue in colour, it symbolises loyalty, honesty, and beauty.
Diamond, the birthstone for April, is the most popular of all gemstones. A diamond is a mineral compound made of pure carbon and is the hardest natural substance on the planet.
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Known for its brilliant green colour, emerald can also have blue or yellow undertones and loses all colour when subjected to high heat. Emerald, a precious gemstone, is the birthstone for May, represents wisdom, faith, success in love, and domestic bliss.
Yellow Topaz
The most highly valued pearls are created inside of saltwater oysters and freshwater clams whose shells are lined with mother-of-pearl, or nacre. Pearl, symbolises success, happiness, and love.
Blue topaz
December
Ancient civilizations believed this stone had cooling properties, not only on a pot of water, but on hot tempers, as well. Gifting this stone to a person is a sign of love and fidelity. The wearer of blue topaz may experience an increased confidence in their ability to communicate.
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Acknowledgements
Holts Academy is very grateful to all the contributors to this first edition of Jewellery and Other Stories , a huge thank you to everyone for their time and enthusiasm! In particular we would like to thank: Laissez Faire Magazine for helping us create this publication www.laissezfairelondon.co.uk Our Level 4 Jewellery Manufacture Students for lending us their beautiful jewellery for the front and back cover photos:
Photographer: Nadine Wood www.nadinewoodphotography.com
Emma Habbeshon Rebekah Spencer Shannon Watts Verity Keating Hanan Berhili
The students of the London College of Beauty Therapy:
Our BootCamp, Level 3, 4 and CAD students who modelled for the front and back cover shots:
Talaya Gigg Remy Finch Carla Tipan
Cameron Appleton Andrea Da Costa Yolanda Johnson Felix Carter Sophia Nickoli
http://www.lcbt.co.uk/ for doing the hair and make-up: