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COVER FEATURE
06 LETTER FROM MATT WEBER
08 START SMART
• DO’S AND DON’TS OF HOME MAINTENANCE
• U.S. TARIFF DECISION PREDICTED TO RAISE SOLAR ENERGY COSTS
• 7 WAYS TO ADD $100K TO THE VALUE OF YOUR HOME
• Q&A WITH MATT WEBER
18 SKILL SET EXPERT’S GUIDE TO BATHROOM WALLPAPER
30
NOW YOU SEE ME... TIPS FOR BUILDING AND INSTALLING A SECRET PIVOTING DOOR
41 STEP-BY-STEP HOW TO HANG WALLPAPER
KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL:
LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO
When trying to decide how to approach a home project, I generally try to estimate the cost, time commitment, and return on investment. From there, I’ll try to break it down into a cost-per-hour scenario as if I were getting paid as a professional to complete the job, which gives me a better idea if it’s worth doing myself or hiring a contractor.
For example, I might estimate that I can complete a flooring job in 16 hours with $1,600 in material. Because I already know how to lay flooring and have the necessary tools, I can justify handling the job as though I’m paying myself $100 per hour to lay new flooring, which is much more than I make at this magazine. The same job may cost a flooring company $3,200. Maybe they can do it faster and easier, but I’d have to pay them twice as much. So, “paying myself $100/hour” to increase the value of my property sounds like a good ROI.
Other factors will change the estimate. For example, if I had never laid flooring, then I’d have a learning curve, which would
slow the job time and diminish the hourly “rate of pay.” If I didn’t have the necessary tools, I’d have to purchase them, which would increase the overall cost and again diminish the overall labor rate. As long as I can keep that hourly rate impressively high, I can justify doing a job myself rather than paying someone else.
This is far from a perfect system, though. It fails to factor in the “unknown variables” which are unforeseen obstacles or challenges that only crop up once you’re already knee-deep in the job. Take that flooring job, for instance. Pulling up the old carpet and laying wood flooring might sound simple until the big day arrives, and you remove the carpet only to find a wonky, uneven subfloor that needs extensive repair before installing the new boards. In that case, the time commitment skyrockets and your labor rate contracts. Maybe this discovery requires tools you didn’t realize you would need and BAM!—the project cost expands.
Or, maybe you make several bone-headed mistakes on the
project, slowing your progress, increasing your frustration, raising your blood pressure, and begging the question: “Was it worth it to do yourself?” Of course, nobody can answer that but you.
Take this issue’s Hidden Door story as a prime example. I’m glad I completed the project, but I made a lot of mistakes along the way which really diminished my hourly return. If I had known about the extra time it would take me to complete the job, maybe I would have purchased a kit or called a pro.
There’s a silver lining to my mistakes, though. I get to highlight them here in Home Improvement & Repairs magazine, so you can learn from my experience and ensure a quicker, smoother, more streamlined project when you tackle the same thing in your home.
Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226,
Here are 3 DIY projects that homeowners should consider tackling themselves, according to Courtney Klosterman, Home Insights Expert at Hippo home insurance group.
1. Check for signs of pests and spray to keep them away (57% of homeowners say they do this). Regularly spraying around the exterior of your home helps prevent infestations and protects your property from potential damage caused by insects or rodents.
2. If you feel confident in using a ladder, inspect and remove debris from the roof and gutters (38% of homeowners say they do this). A quick walk-around every three months to remove debris from the roof and gutters helps reduce the risk of water damage, leaks and structural issues.
3. Replace weather strips on windows and doors (only 23% of homeowners say they do this). Removing
and replacing worn out weather strips each season helps improve insulation. This may even help better manage your utility bills by keeping the cold air in and the hot air out during the summer, and keeping the cold air out and warm air in during the winter.
Here are 3 projects that homeowners should consider hiring a pro to handle:
1. HVAC system maintenance. Annual servicing of your HVAC unit helps keep filters clear from debris and improves the appliance's durability. When your HVAC works efficiently, heat and cool air are distributed throughout the home with good circulation. Common system breakdowns are a result of dirty HVAC filters, thermostat settings, a pilot light being out, or faulty thermocouple. You can help improve the air quality inside of your home and use less energy by changing the HVAC filter every 30 to 90 days depending on your unit. But also be sure to schedule a bi-annual
tune-up to help ensure you are not stuck without heat or cool air.
2. Plumbing maintenance or installation. Check for signs of water damage on walls and ceilings, and if detected, move quickly to bring in a plumber to identify and fix any possible leaks. Water damage is one of the most common and costly disasters your home can experience, and the average home insurance claim costs upwards of $12,000.
3. Electrical updates or outages. Flickering lights could indicate an electrical problem requiring professional help to protect your home from overheating in the event of a power surge (more than 2/3 of homeowners don’t even know the location of their fuse box or circuit breaker).
— Learn more at www.hippo.com.
The US Commerce Department finalized a decision to impose import duties on solar panel makers who finish their products in Southeast Asian nations to avoid tariffs on Chinese-made goods. While the decision is good news for the small U.S. solar manufacturing industry, which has struggled to compete with Chinese goods, experts predict it will increase prices for solar energy because most major solar installers rely on the lower-cost panels made overseas.
“The recent solar tariff decision is expected to drive up consumer prices,” says Garrett Mendelsohn, CEO of Solar Bootcamp University. “While the world's leading solar manufacturers can maintain low costs due to economies of scale, U.S. manufacturers are still scaling up, resulting in higher equipment costs. Consequently, U.S. solar installers and companies are likely to pass these increased costs onto consumers. However, as the domestic industry matures and expands, this trend may change.”
According to Mendelsohn, this development will likely have a major cooling effect on the solar industry and hinder the ability for the country to meet its clean energy goals.
According to Bankrate, 55 percent of Americans are planning home improvement projects in 2023, with an anticipated median spend of $15,000. Eric Bramlett, realtor and owner of Austin’s Bramlett Residential reveals the seven most affordable ways you can add up to $100k on the resale value of your property, and help it sell faster.
Introducing smart home features can significantly increase the resale of your property value in today's real estate market. A new report by the Department of Energy and Climate Change found that home values could increase by up to 38% in some parts of the country, with a 14% increase on average. You don’t need to be an expert and spend a fortune on cutting-edge gear, and there are ways to automate without blowing your whole budget.
“When looking to add in budget-friendly smart home features, it’s really about laying the foundations for future buyers,” says Bramlett. “Knowing which smart home products operate without the need to
connect to a hub is a better option for people with more modest budgets. While hubs offer advantages, they’re not always essential. The most important thing to prioritize is making sure you have a really good wireless router, and one that can reach all corners of your home”.
To attract tech-savvy buyers, one of the best ways to make a positive first impression is by introducing smart lighting. According to Pinterest, searches for “warm apartment aesthetic” are up 10,000% this year, “fall decor aesthetic” up 400%, showing that lighting is front of mind, especially as we move into the winter months. Many smart lighting systems work perfectly well without being linked to a central hub, and are still capable of interacting with other smart home products such as Amazon Echo and Google Nest.
Bramlett notes, “Other than lighting, a lot of buyers are interested in smart thermostats to align with both cost and energy savings.”
With utility bills at an all-time high, more buyers are increasingly prioritizing energy efficiency in their home search. Recent research by Freddie Mac found
that homes with energy-efficient ratings are sold at a premium of 2.7 percent compared to homes without ratings. Furthermore, within the group of homes with energy ratings, those with higher ratings commanded a price premium of 3 to 5 percent over homes with lower ratings.
As one of the most overused terms in the property industry, it’s little wonder why the term “curb appeal” can turn off sellers, but adding curb appeal can increase your home value by 3 to 5 percent.
“First impressions really do count and even with the new market of tech-savvy buyers, this traditional methodology is likely to never change,” explains Bramlett. “Typically, buyers will drive past the property in the evening and glance at the exterior before deciding to view. It’s important to think about how your property looks in the dark, and consider ways of highlighting unique features through lighting. Buyers love quirky front doors and painted windows. You can
easily update the color of windows through a good exterior paint. In average sized homes you’re looking at an initial outlay of around $300 and the benefits it can have on helping your home sell faster can be outstanding.”
Add low-maintenance shrubs, flowers and potted plants, illuminate pathways with solar lights, and ensure the front yard is well-maintained to create a welcoming exterior.
Buyers’ needs changed drastically during the COVID-19 pandemic, and this trend is something we’ve seen continue into 2023. On average, adding a home office can increase the sale price of your house by 5-10%.
“Homeowners short on space for a full home office can instead create a clever nook that will still increase the resale value by at least 2%. With increases in remote work, more buyers list having a home office, or an area out-of-the-way where they can work in peace, as an essential component of their housing search.”
If your budget is limited, you should focus on sprucing up communal areas that offer the most return on investment. Typically, an updated bathroom can add up to 4-5% onto the value of your home, and there are easy and cheap ways you can make it look more presentable to buyers.
“Modern bathrooms can instantly make your home more attractive, but not every seller has the available cash to splurge on a full renovation,” says Bramlett. “Making small tweaks could add up to $5,000 to the resale value of your property and help it sell faster. For example, a lick of blue paint can make it a more calming and inviting space”.
Simply re-caulking the tub and sink can give your bathroom a totally new feel. Upgrade the faucets and shower heads to a neutral chrome material.
Often described as the heart of the home, the kitchen layout and aesthetic can really make or break the sale of a property.
Bramlett says: “When aiming to enhance a kitchen for maximum return, focusing on strategic improvements can yield significant benefits. If you opt for a smaller kitchen upgrade, then your estimated ROI is 75% to 80%. For instance, if you spent around $6,000, then your recoup could be anywhere between $4,400 to $4,800, but this has the potential to double over time.”
Focus on making updates to create an illusion of space and airiness, especially in homes with smaller kitchens. Begin by updating the kitchen's color scheme with light and neutral tones. Next, consider replacing outdated or bulky cabinets with open shelving or sleek, multi-functional storage solutions. Free up valuable counter space by maximizing vertical space through pot racks or hanging storage. Install reflective surfaces, such as mirrored backsplashes or glossy countertops, to amplify the perception of greater interior space.
It’s estimated that for every dollar you spend adding these interior design features, you’ll see around a 50-cent return, and not only that, but it’s likely to sell your property faster.
“Character adds value,” says Bramlett, “and although it’s difficult to quantify, we see homes sell much faster if they’re sympathetic to the era the property was built in, or if historical features and details have been restored. There’s also a subsection of buyers who love the illusion of character, even in modern properties.”
Use moldings, trim, and wainscoting to add architectural interest to walls without the cost of major renovations. Start by selecting the architectural element you want to replicate, such as crown molding or decorative ceiling medallions. Lightweight materials like foam or MDF can mimic the texture and appearance of real wood or plaster, making them cost-effective alternatives.
HEditor’s Note: Eric Bramlett is a realtor and owner of Bramlett Residential, a mid-sized real estate brokerage in Austin, TX. Learn more at www.bramlettresidential.com.
QUESTION: Is there a way to expand a doorway for a wheelchair without rebuilding the frame?
ANSWER: If you only need a couple of extra inches, you should try using an expandable hinge. Also called an offset hinge or handicap hinge, these 90degree hinges install easily and add 2 inches to almost any doorway, allowing access for most wheelchairs, walkers and transfer chairs. They are designed to swing doors completely clear of the jamb opening when door is opened 90 degrees. Expanding hinges typically work on left- or right-hand doors by flipping the hinge.
QUESTION: How do heated gutters work?
ANSWER: A home’s gutter system can be heated through the addition of heat cables and heated gutter helmets. Heat cable can be installed directly in the gutter, usually in a zig-zag pattern, as well as at the roof's eave and routed through the gutter for extra protection. A heat cable helps reduce but not prevent accumulation of ice by melting a portion of the ice formation. This creates a pathway beneath the ice where water can drain off the roof. Some products come with thermostats that let you control the temperature. Heated gutter helmets are often designed to work in tandem with heat cable. These gutter helmets are installed directly on the gutter to reduce debris accumulation and they heat up to keep the gutter temperature above freezing, thus helping to prevent ice buildup.
When it comes to interior design, the bathroom is often overlooked as a space for creativity and self-expression. However, with the right choice of bathroom wallpaper, you can transform this functional room into a stylish oasis that reflects your personality and enhances your daily routines. James Mellan-Matulewicz, Creative Director at wallpaper brand Bobbi Beck, shares his expert tips for choosing and applying bathroom wallpaper, so you can achieve a stunning and practical result.
Bathroom wallpaper has come a long way from its humble beginnings. Modern
advancements in materials and printing technology have made it a viable option for a space often characterized by humidity and temperature fluctuations. Some of the benefits of using wallpaper in your bathroom include:
Style Versatility: Wallpaper offers an extensive range of colors, patterns, and textures, allowing you to create a truly unique and personalized look for your bathroom. Whether you're aiming for a serene spa-like atmosphere or a bold and vibrant statement, there's a wallpaper design to match your vision.
Durability: High-quality bathroom wallpapers are designed to withstand the conditions present in a bathroom, including moisture and heat.
Most wallpapers can be used in a bathroom, if covered with a decorator’s varnish after it’s installed. This creates an invisible waterproof layer across the seams and surface of the wallpaper.
Easy to Update: If you ever decide to change the look of your bathroom, removing and replacing wallpaper is generally simpler and less time-consuming than repainting, remodeling or replacing bulky bathroom items like sinks and baths.
Aesthetic Impact: The right choice of wallpaper can completely transform the ambiance of your bathroom, making it feel larger, cozier, or more luxurious.
Before you dive into the world of bathroom wallpaper, consider these key factors to ensure you make the right choice.
Material: Opt for vinyl, vinyl-coated, or non-woven wallpapers that are specifically designed to withstand moisture and humidity. These materials are more resistant to water and can be wiped down without damaging the design.
Pattern and Color: Think about the overall style you want to achieve. Light and pastel colors can make a small bathroom appear larger, while bold patterns can add drama and personality. Consider the existing color scheme and fixtures in your bathroom when selecting a wallpaper.
Texture: Textured wallpapers can add depth and tactile interest to your bathroom. However, be cautious with highly textured options, as they may trap moisture and be more challenging to clean.
Scale of the Pattern: The scale of the pattern should be proportional to the size of your bathroom. In a small space, opt for smaller patterns, while larger bathrooms can accommodate bolder designs.
Maintenance: Choose a wallpaper that is labelled as washable or scrubbable. Bathrooms can accumulate dirt and moisture, so having wallpaper that is easy to clean will ensure its longevity. Applying a decorator’s varnish afterwards can turn a non-washable wallpaper into a washable one.
Proper application and maintenance are essential to getting the most out of your
BATHROOM WALLPAPER HAS COME A LONG WAY FROM ITS HUMBLE BEGINNINGS
bathroom wallpaper. Some important things to consider are:
Preparation: Ensure your walls are clean, dry, and smooth before applying wallpaper. Repair any imperfections and consider applying a primer to create a smooth surface.
Professional Installation: While DIY installation is possible, hiring a professional wallpaper installer is an option if you're new to wallpapering. Proper installation will ensure a seamless and long-lasting result. Bathrooms are often the trickiest room to decorate because there’s often lots of obstacles and little room to maneuver.
Sealing Edges: In bathrooms, it’s important to apply a waterproof sealant around the edges of the wallpaper to prevent moisture from seeping underneath.
Regular Cleaning: To maintain the beauty of your bathroom wallpaper, regularly clean it using a soft, damp cloth or sponge. Avoid abrasive cleaners that could damage the design. You should only do this if the wallpaper is sold as
washable or you’ve applied a varnish over the top after installation.
Ventilation: Proper ventilation is crucial to reducing humidity levels in your bathroom. Use exhaust fans and open windows when possible to prevent excessive moisture buildup.
Bathroom wallpaper is a fantastic way to infuse style, personality, and sophistication into an overlooked space. By carefully considering materials, patterns and maintenance, you can create a bathroom that is both visually stunning and practical. Remember, the key to successful bathroom wallpaper is choosing the right materials and ensuring proper installation and maintenance. With the right approach, your bathroom can become a true reflection of your design sensibilities and a delightful retreat for both you and your guests.
HEditor’s Note: All photography in this article appears courtesy of Bobbi Beck, a carbon neutral design and print studio with a focus on producing luxury wallpapers without damaging the planet. Learn more at www.bobbibeck.com.
providing a comfortable outdoor space while keeping out bugs and debris. Some screen porches are built for the purpose, whereas others are retrofitted onto a covered deck or existing porch. But all are constructed from an assortment of frames on which the screen is attached along the edges.
Decide on the location and orientation of your porch. Check local building codes and regulations to ensure compliance, and then secure any necessary permits. To design your own screened porch, sketch the layout and design, considering its shape, size, and the features you want. Consider factors such as roof type, ceiling height, door placement, electrical outlets and lighting.
s
Porch designs can feature full vertical screen panels or half screens above a knee-wall to add more privacy and weather protection.
Constructing an addition from the ground up is best left to experienced professionals, who will determine the type of foundation required based on the porch’s size, soil conditions, and local building codes. The builder will excavate and pour concrete footings to support the porch structure. Basic framing usually includes installation of a ledger board, which attaches the porch to the house. The porch frame is usually built of pressure-treated lumber. Installation of the posts, beams and joists will create the structure, incorporating framed sections built to match the size of your screen panels. Vertical screen panels can extend from the floor to the overhead beam, or some porches incorporate a “half wall” or “knee wall,” and the screen encloses the open area above it.
Consult with your contractor about the best roofing material based on your design, budget and local climate. Flooring options include composite boards, tile, stone, or exotic hardwoods that withstand the outdoor elements.
Choose a durable screen material suitable for your outdoor environment. Choices include fiberglass, polyester, aluminum, stainless and copper (for coastal areas).
Bench-made frames can be installed as wall panels, installed onto existing porch framing, or the screen can be attached to the wood framing.
Screen-frame kits include four aluminum frame pieces which can be cut to size and assembled using the included frame corners, spline, pull tabs and side tension springs. Spline is usually included, but depending on your screen type, an alternate size may be needed.
Measure each section of the porch where you plan to install the screen. Add a few extra inches to each measurement to allow for the screen to overlap the frame. Use a utility knife, scissors, or metal shears to cut the screen material to the measured size for each section. Lay the cut screen material over the frame section, ensuring it covers the entire opening.
You have several options on how to install the screening material around the porch.
Screen Frames—One basic option is to construct rectangular frames on your workbench that match the frame openings of the porch. Stretch the screen over the frames, attach it securely, and then fasten the screened frames onto the porch sections. The frames can be attached to the porch by bracketing them with stop molding (like windows) or using a similar trim package. Some screen frames screw directly to the wood porch framing. Home centers and hardware stores sell screen-panel kits, and you can cut the aluminum frame rails to fit. The screen is usually attached to the frames with spline.
Spline is a flexible rubber or vinyl cord that holds the screen into a frame. The spline is installed over the screen using a wheeled spline tool, which presses it into a groove.
Staple Method—An old-fashioned DIY approach is to forgo the spline and use a heavy-duty stapler to fasten the screen along the face of wooden porch framing. With this method, you simply attach the screen with construction staples then cover
YOU HAVE SEVERAL OPTIONS ON HOW TO INSTALL THE SCREENING MATERIAL AROUND THE PORCH.
the unsightly edges with trim. The staple method has several drawbacks, however. The staples don’t always fasten the screen evenly, causing pulls, tension and disorientation in the grid pattern. Plus, the staple attachment rarely lasts long, and when the screen detaches, it often tears, leaving an unsightly, ragged look.
If you’re attaching screen with staples, place the first staple at the top center of the panel and let gravity pull the remainder downward. Fold the 2-inch excess over 3/4 inch and then over again 1/2 inch to create a thick border. Staple it in place. Pull down the center of the screen tight and staple the center in the same fashion at the bottom of the frame. Stretch the screen tightly toward each side and staple near the top corners. Work downward along the sides, pulling slack out of the screen and stapling along the edges every 2 inches. Keep the staples in a line that can easily be concealed by trim strips. Inspect each section to ensure the screen is tight, without sagging or wrinkles.
The spline method is more reliable for screen attachment, and it can be used with several different framing systems, including window frames and screen doors, resulting in a neater overall appearance. Lay the cut screen material over the frame section, ensuring it covers the entire opening. If hanging the screen in place, work from the top downward. Starting at a top corner, use a spline roller to press the spline over the screen, forcing it into the groove of the frame toward the opposite top corner. Hold the screen taut as you work your way around the frame, using the roller to push the spline deep into the groove so it compresses against the sides for a tight hold.
The spline-and-groove method works with screen doors and frame kits, and the spline is sold in different sizes to fit different groove widths. The main drawback is longterm durability. When facing strong winds, pets pushing against the screen, or footballs thrown by your kids, the spline can dislodge and require reinstallation. The repair is fairly easy—the same as installation—but repeated repairs can get tedious in a rowdy household.
Stapling the screen is the most rudimentary method of installation, but it works in a pinch. Install trim strips over the screen edges to hide the staples and help protect the connection.
If stapling the screen, follow these sequence suggestions, then apply staples every 2 inches for final attachment.
The spline method is a more reliable method of screen installation than stapling. A wheeled spline tool is used to press the spline over the screen into a groove, where it compresses for a tight fit.
Spline-free screen porch products are more expensive than more traditional methods, but they offer real advantages for the installer. For example, the Screen Tight system has been installed in more than a million homes because it offers a simple three-step installation that’s easy for DIY’ers. Just attach the base track to your existing porch framing and roll the screen directly into place. Then snap on the decorative vinyl cap, which protects the screen
connection and eliminates the need to install a separate trim piece over the joint. If you need to reapply the screen for repair, just remove the vinyl cap, re-screen, and put the cap back on. Another spline-free option is the ScreenEze System, which is advertised as a “self-tightening” and “self-stretching” system. The L-shaped, low-profile aluminum base channel can be corner-mounted or flushmounted to the porch with screws. Plinth kits are included to connect the corners.
To install the screen; hold the screen fabric at the top of the opening and square it up, then attach it to the base channel by pressing or tapping the vinyl cap over the screen and snapping it onto the aluminum ridge with a rubber mallet. Seat the vinyl cap completely around the frame. The cap is sold in a variety of colors, including bronze, white, sand and clay.
For easy DIY installation, you might consider the spline-free ScreenTight system. Just attach the base track to your existing porch framing and roll the screen directly into place. Then snap on the decorative vinyl cap.
Image © ScreenTight.
As with all screen installations, trim off any excess screen material using scissors or a utility knife.
Have a large opening? The ScreenEze system is probably the best choice to cover large areas, because it can span up to 150 square feet. A traditional spline system can only go as large 60 square feet, and posts are required every few feet. H
Another spline-free system, the ScreenEze system, uses an aluminum base and a PVC vinyl cap. The ScreenEze system comes in four colors and can cover spans up to 150 square feet.
Image © ScreenEze.
Mystery! Intrigue! Excitement! A hidden door in your home can conceal a passageway, serve as a curious conversation piece, or both. A pivoting hinge, also known as a bookcase hinge or a rotating hinge, is a popular choice for creating a hidden door that seamlessly blends into the wall. In this article, we share some tips on how to build and install a hidden door using a pivoting hinge.
To add a pivoting hidden door, you have three options: (1) pay a contractor to turnkey the entire project, (2) order a hidden door kit and install it yourself, or (3) build your own door and frame.
Option 1 is the most expensive choice but probably the easiest for your stress levels. Option 2 can save labor costs if you have the appropriate tools and some experience installing doors or windows. Option 3 can save money on materials and allow you the most versatility in design, but construction can be difficult and frustrating for first-time builders.
Hidden-door kits are available in a range of sizes and styles from companies such as Murphy Door and Maderra. The doors can be designed to look
By Matt Weber
like bookcases, wine racks, wainscoting, fulllength mirrors and more. Prices for single-door kits range from $1,100 to $3,000. Double-door kits are also available. The kits include detailed instructions that may differ from this article.
The prefinished kits also come with the door constructed to align perfectly at the pivot point of the matching door jamb and provide the necessary clearance for operation. This is a big advantage compared to building from scratch, because determining hinge alignment and proper door clearance can be the trickiest parts of construction. But we have some tips to help with that!
Since the door panel can be built as a bookcase, a wine rack, etc., this article won’t spend much time on those details. The panel is usually constructed of a combination of plywood and solid lumber or MDF trim. It is important to have adequate thickness of material at the top and bottom of the door panel to drill out, mortise and install the pivoting hinge.
The door panel shown in this project was built as a basic bookcase, fastened primarily with pocket screws and Titebond wood glue.
The door must be installed square, level and plumb within the jamb for proper operation. If the surrounding door frame is not square, level and plumb, you will have to correct the problem
After removing the trim and the door, I found the surrounding door frame was neither level or
by constructing a new door jamb on all sides of the door frame. This construction will include a sill plate across the bottom of the door, in which the bottom pin of the pivoting hinge will be mounted.
Before constructing the door panel, it’s important to understand how the pivoting hinge mounts into the top and bottom, how the panel will operate, and what clearances are required for unobstructed door-swing.
Pivots are nearly invisible on most doors. Most single doors only require a top and bottom pivot. Make sure the hinge you select is rated to carry the weight of your door. Installed along the top and bottom edges, the pivot transfers the weight of a door to the top and bottom of the opening, which will often make it easier to operate the door than if it were hung from the side using butt hinges. This effect means that pivots can be used with over-sized or heavy doors. They also tend to last longer and require less maintenance than butt hinges.
When you unpack the pivot hinge, you’ll find a paper template that includes dimensions for holes and recesses that must be installed in the door or frame. You will need to determine where on the door and jamb to install the pivot hinge based on the size of your door panel.
To make sure I had a plumb, level and square frame in which to install the pivoting door, I installed a new door jamb and sill made of 1x6.
First, determine the size of your door panel based on its function. For example, I built the the bookcase panel with shelves deep enough to hold books and Blu-ray movies. I also accounted for shelf nosing and trim. Door panels will vary in size, but it’s important to determine the overall front-to-back depth of the panel.
To find placement of the pivot hinge on the door panel, I recommend cutting a rectangular cardboard sheet to the same depth as your door panel. Next, cut the cardboard rectangle an inch shorter than the door frame.
Use the pivot-hinge template to trace the bottom hinge near the corner of the cardboard rectangle. (Keep the hinge at least 1 inch from the edges of the rectangle so it does not interfere with the sidewalls or face-frame once the door is constructed.) Then, align the side of the rectangle that’s nearest to the hinge along the outswing side of the doorway’s sill plate. Center the cardboard in the doorway.
Using the pivot-hinge template as reference, drive a screw through the cardboard at the exact location of the hinge pin. Now, turn the cardboard template within the doorway as if opening the door, using the screw as a pivot point. Depending on the size of the cardboard,
To find placement of the hinge, first cut a cardboard rectangle to the same depth you’d like your hidden door and trim it to fit inside the door jamb. Using the template included with the hinge, mark the bottom hinge bracket on the cardboard (which represents the bottom of your door). Align the cardboard with the door sill, then drive a screw through it at the location of the hinge’s pivot pin.
its corner will likely contact the door jamb, indicating that a door of that size will be too wide to open.
You can then alter the cardboard’s depth or length. In my case, I wanted the shelf depth to remain constant, so I shortened its length by folding up and cutting away the edge of the cardboard rectangle until it cleared the doorway by 1/4 inch when opening and closing. Check all corners of the cardboard to make sure there is no interference in the travel of the cardboard, which represents the footprint of the door you will build. If it’s too tight on the hinge side, you might need to relocate the pin position.
Once you have trimmed the cardboard to the point that you’re satisfied with the way it functions as a door, clearly mark the pin location on the sill plate for installation later. Then, use the exact measurements of the carboard sheet as a construction template to build the final dimensions of your door. The cardboard will also serve as placement template for the hinge, showing the exact mounting location of the pivot hinges on the top and bottom of the door.
What about the height of the door panel? Refer to the pivot hinge’s packaging for any recommendations regarding overhead clear-
I recommend maintaining a clearance of 1/4” between the jamb and each door corner as it swings open. The final dimensions of the cardboard will show the maximum footprint that your hidden door can occupy within the frame to ensure proper operation.
ance between the door and the frame. For the Tambee brand of pivot hinge used for this project, we built the door 5/16 inch shorter than the height of the frame.
The pin location of the upper hinge must align perfectly plumb with the lower one you marked
on the sill plate. A plumb bob or laser level can help to transfer and mark its location on the top of the door frame. The top hinge engages the door by lowering the pin into place (when you use a screwdriver to adjust the bracket).
Both the top and bottom hinge assemblies come with two mating brackets. You’ll need a wood router or hammer and chisel to create a recess for the jamb brackets. These brackets will sit flush with the surface of the frame. Drill any holes that are shown in the hinge template.
The mating hinge brackets will also need to be recessed flush into the top and bottom of the door. A hammer-and-chisel or router can be used to cut the mortises.
The hinge will include all the necessary screws to fix the brackets in place.
Add any plates or components to the hinge as indicated on your template. The Tambee hinge utilizes a ball bearing that must remain seated in the bottom hinge for proper operation. Note: For bookshelf doors, I recommend installing the “carcass” or empty case (without the shelves) for more manageable weight at this phase of the project.
It may help to recruit an assistant to install the door. Set the door by lifting or tilting it into place so the lower pivot bracket (on the bottom of the door) fits over the spindle installed in the floor. Align the upper hinge brackets, then use a
Be sure to install the top bracket of the upper hinge so you’ll be able to reach the adjustment screw after the door is set into place.
screwdriver to turn the screw of the top bracket to engage the pivot pin.
Check that the door is operating correctly and adjust the pivots according to the manufacturer's instructions.
After the door panel was completely installed and functioning correctly, I added the shelves and trim.
The face of the door panel can be decorated with a trim package that makes it appear as
Test the door for operation then add any shelves or accessories.
For the most convincing effect, the door should look like the door is built as an immovable feature of the wall, incorporating baseboards and crown molding in a style that matches or complements the existing trim in the room.
though it’s built into the wall. This is done by framing the panel with trim boards that are fastened to the wall on the hinge side but are fastened to the door panel on the opposite side. With careful installation that maintains even reveals and shadow lines, the vertical trim
on one side will detach from the wall when the door is opened, then the boards nest back into place once the door is closed again. The overall effect makes the panel appear to be a stationary part of the wall whenever closed.
The trick is that the molding on the hinge side is fastened to the wall like normal, while the matching trim on the opposite side is fastened to the door, detaching from the wall when it is opened.
Okay, time for the confession booth. This was my first time building anything with a pivoting hinge. I made some mistakes I want to point out in hopes that you avoid them on your project.
Door-swing direction. Since the pivoting hinge is situated inside the door frame, rather than its edge, the door panel doesn’t allow as much passage space as a standard butt-hinge door. And the deeper the door panel, the more space within the doorway it occupies. I didn’t account for this when I initially installed the door with hinges on the righthand side. I figured the open door would align against the adjacent wall rather than obstructing the hallway to the left. In practice, the adjacent wall stopped the door from opening very wide, and the depth of the bookcase made gaining access through the doorway (into a closet) too cumbersome. I solved this by moving the hinge to the other side of the bookcase—a lot of extra work.
Pivot-bracket alignment. When installing the pivot hinge, understand that the pivot points of the hinge must align, but the brackets that extend from those pivot points do not have to line up with each other, providing more versatility for placement. This can be especially important with the top hinge bracket, because once the door is in place, you need to access the bracket’s adjustment screw to engage the top hinge pin. One of my mistakes was positioning the top bracket so the adjustment screw was concealed by the door once installed. I couldn’t reach it with a screwdriver. I had to remove the door, add blocking around the door frame (inside the closet), then reinstall the top bracket into the blocking so I could reach the adjustment screw once the door was in place.
Recess the hinge plates. Because the pivot hinges would be obscured by the door panel, I thought I might save some time by skipping the work of cutting the mortises that recess the hinge brackets flush into the door panel and frame. This was a mistake. After wrestling for a while with the heavy door, trying to get the brackets to align, I realized that the edges of the metal brackets were catching each other and preventing the door from fitting. I had to pull the door out, cut the mortises, reinstall the brackets, then fit the door into place.
Installing wallpaper is an easy process and a versatile way to add artistic décor to an interior living space.
Before installing, allow the wallpaper to acclimate to your room temperature to avoid shrinkage.
The wall should be clean, dry, and free of any bumps or holes. Use sandpaper to make the wall surface smooth
and fill any holes or dents with spackling paste. Allow the wall to dry completely before proceeding.
Measure the height and width of your wall in feet to help you determine how much wallpaper you need to purchase. Add an extra foot to your
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measurements to allow for any errors or pattern matching. Areas where there is an obstacle (window, door, etc.) will be cut away during installation.
Mark the height of the wall on the wallpaper, then cut the wallpaper into strips that are several inches longer than the height of your wall. Make sure to line up the pattern on each strip so that it matches up seamlessly.
Mix the paste according to its instructions. A drill and paddle can make quick work of this task.
Brush the paste onto the wall, covering the entire surface with a thin coating.
To improve accuracy, you can measure the strip width, then mark it on the wall lightly with a pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a vertical line from the ceiling to the floor by keeping the mark as a guide.
Apply the first strip of wallpaper to the top of the wall, aligning the edge of the paper with the ceiling or crown molding.
Smooth the wallpaper strip from the center outwards to remove any air bubbles using a soft, dry cloth or smoothing tool. When hanging other strips, make sure to avoid overlapping them. Match the images or patterns and paste the wallpaper edge to edge.
If you press the strips firmly with a roller or smoothing tool, the seams should not be visible. While wallpapering, be careful with the paste, and if it gets on your wallpaper’s surface, wipe it with a clean dry cloth. Do not use a wet or damp cloth for this, otherwise it could rub off the ink.
Cut and apply the remaining wallpaper strips, aligning the pattern as you go along. Repeat until you have covered the entire wall. Trim the excess wallpaper along the edges of the wall using a sharp knife or wallpaper scissors.
Finally, clean any excess glue from the wallpaper with a damp sponge. In areas exposed to water splashes, we recommend coating it with a matte decorator's varnish to ensure the water-resistance of the paper. Make sure the room has good ventilation then allow the wallpaper to dry at room temperature for at least a day before restricting the airflow in the room.
To install peel-and-stick wallpaper, follow the same instructions detailed in this article, but instead of pasting the wall, you simply peel off the release liner and apply the wallpaper to the wall. If you see any air bubbles during installation, avoid rubbing them out with a smoothing tool, because they’ll only return. Instead, peel up the wallpaper and reinstall it until it’s applied with no air bubbles present. This can require some patience but will result in a better finish.
When hanging a wallpaper mural, each panel will arrive as a roll. Unroll all panels and identify the order that they need to be hung from left to right. Note that the mural has typically been printed slightly larger than your wall dimensions to create excess. When installing the first panel, make sure to use the vertical excess at the tops and bottom, which will help with uneven walls. Paste the wall and begin hanging your wallpaper from the top downward. Smooth away all the ripples or bubbles using a soft, dry cloth or smoothing tool. When hanging the following strips, make sure to avoid overlapping them. Match the images or patterns, then paste the wallpaper edge to edge.
