GALLERY LARAVEN STARTED IN DECEMBER 2011 AS A “POP-UP” GALLERY
IN A HISTORICAL BUILDING ON AMSTERDAM’S HERENGRACHT. DURING OUR 6 MONTHS THERE, WE WELCOMED MORE THAN 5.000 VISITORS TO OUR GALLERY AND RECEIVED INTERNATIONAL PRESS ATTENTION. WE HAVE MONTHLY EXHIBITIONS OF NEW AND ESTABLISHED ARTISTS. MIXING EVERY CONCEIVABLE STYLE OF ART TOGETHER TO KEEP IT FRESH AND INTERESTING. IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A MUSEUM...GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.
GALLERY
LARAVEN IS ALIVE AND AS VIBRANT AS THE ARTISTS WHO WORK WITH US. TO GALLERY LARAVEN WILL BE A “ VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY”. FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE E-MAIL US AT: INFO@GALLERYLARAVEN.COM
OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE
WWW.GALLERYLARAVEN.COM 2
A’ DAM STATE OF MIND COLLECTION IS AVAILABLE @ HENXS WWW.HENXS.COM • SHOP.5TATEOFMIND.COM 3
Colofon EDITOR IN CHIEF Attilio Brancaccio ART DIRECTOR & DESIGN Attilio Brancaccio EDITORS Agnese Roda Anna Kelhu BLOG EDITOR Monyart CONTRIBUTING FEATURES EDITOR Jenneke van Bakel Mark Janicello FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHERS
Sabrina van den Heuvel Rebekka Fagnani Kerron Riley Masha Ru Peter Stigter Cosimo Calabrese THANKS TO: Blupixel.it ADVERTISING hoopdoop@hoopdoopmagazine.com
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contents
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P6 • BAS KOSTERS • Cover Story
P56 • PIKa - eating unusual things • by Masha Ru
P22 • HOOP DOOP MEETS: ELLIPHANT • interview
P70 • HOOP DOOP MEETS: domenico cioffi • interview
P26 • ANASTASIA: RESURRECTION • fashion
P82 • A DAY, A PORTRAIT, A STORY • by Cosimo Calabrese
P42 • voodo & art • by Mark Janicello P46 • HOOP DOOP MEETS: bassculture • interview
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cover story
BAS
FUCK, LOVE, YEAH!
KOSTERS An appointment with Bas Kosters is a 360 degrees tour into creativity. His world is a unique combination of elements, a multidisciplinary heaven made of fashion, music, graphics, comics, illustrations, installation, sculptures. Besides all his activities and a busy schedule, he finds time to talk to everybody, including me, and tell a bit about his world, tailor made by hard work, focus and a main ingredient: LOVE!
Photography : Sabrina van den Heuvel • Styling: Bas Kosters Studio • Make-up : Trudi Nieuwerf Models: Ildiko Flipse @ Androgyn Model, Quinten Rutgers, Elena Kitkevic, Paul van der Zanden Story by: Agnese Roda
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Everything started by playing with dolls and drawing. As a kid Bas Kosters entertained himself with appearances and imaginary stories. I met him few weeks ago, during the Saint Germain Gallery party for the presentation of a documentary and photo portfolio, homage to one of his latest works, his collection Love, Fuck Yeah! When I saw him he was gently throwing heart shaped red papers on the ground. We sat outside in the fresh air, drinking white wine, smoking a cigarette, surrounded by the portraits Sabrina van den Heuvel took of him. “A punk rough reportage that brings forth my life in photographs” he says about the photographer and her way of portraying people. As a teenager Kosters was really into music and musicians. “They have a clear vision of their image, movements, aesthetics, graphics, how to present a person, a message, an attitude. I liked Nina Hagen, Army of Lovers…” says Kosters. “Music is a composition of notes, style, and image. Musicians are people not afraid to show themselves, to be the centre of attention.” For a University degree he attended a Fashion Master Course in Arnhem. “I was more into illustrations, but for fashion I needed to have some guidance. That is why I chose it.” He smokes a cigarette whilst gently tapping his orange painted nails on the wooden table. He is charming and smiling behind the piercing eyes. He’s one of the most interesting fashion designers in The Netherlands, talking enthusiastically about the fashion world, when asked. “What I like about fashion is the collision, the interaction between art materials, illustration, painting, and textile. You can combine a lot of techniques and stickers, and colours, without boundaries, it is a work without borders, that you can do by hand,” he tells me while sipping the wine. “In the pret-a-porter line for example, it is all about prints. This way I can communicate the vision of my story.” Those productive years helped growing in his fertile imaginary and started realizing how relevant and vital is an interaction in between disciplines for a work. From there the constant duality fashion-performance, music-image, and make his multidisciplinary approach his signature. Inspiration comes also from comics. He likes spray and colour, and he smiles while looking at his boyfriend wearing one of his creations. He enjoys reading comics and collecting them. One of his favourites is Garfield, a “naughty cat with a big mouth.” “I like that” he says. “The stories of my comics take inspiration from feelings, a vision of society. I like to draw monsters. They are ultimately happy in a freaky way. I like to use my website blog to show daily thoughts turned into small monsters, illustrations. Drafts from my mind. I started my rebirth with the blog. There I put all of myself, my frustration, thoughts, inspiration, down on a daily basis. I draw a lot, I use it as a sketchbook for daily inspiration.” All his dreamy fiction fantastic characters are the protagonists of a b&w magazine edition, which is a collection piece. It is called Extra Kak, now at its 4th edition. 8
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About his new projects he says: “I am working on the next Museum Nacht, the New collection 2013”. Talking about his past working experiences for brands such as Zeeman and the Bugaboo stroller limited edition, he mentions freedom. “I know how to use creativity in order not to fall into the dark side of the market. You can dose all the materials according to the customer and show your high fidelity to knowledge in communication of material.” When asked about future hopes for new designers he replies “There is a lot of appreciation towards small initiatives. Throw yourself out in the world. Be original, be yourself.” He started working in fashion right after school and has tasted fully every moment of it ever since. He remembers only good experiences and the feelings of collaboration, as well as learning on how to work together. “I think the world of fashion is more open minded than what people think.” Music has started; people are getting together for the party of the night. I ask Bas the last question. What do you hope for yourself in the future? “To be famous worldwide. “ Not for the glory itself, he explains, but more to know that he has been useful to the world. That he’s been an inspiration for future generations. Have a look at his inspiring website, pump up the speakers, enjoy your eyes and your heartbeats with: www.baskosters.com 10
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HOOPDOOP meets
elliphant Am born bored n restless. No end no beginning to this Elliphant mission really Interview by: Anna Kelhu • photos: ooh brilliant ( uk )
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Hoopdoop contacted the Swedish up-and-coming artist Elliphant with a few questions about her music and how she became her. Here’s what she wrote… Ellinor Olovsdotter became Elliphant during a summer spent in the UK. What trickered the metamorphosis? Am born bored n restless. No end no beginning to this Elliphant mission really. Your songs are infusions of many different elements. What would you say your music is made out of? Am very critical to the mordan ways of handling problems. The whole medical treatment of a broken sperit. The capitalmadness, this bubble life built upon saphty in al different things but from what we really need protection n nollige. It is not ok to be tired or sad in this world. We have no time for evolution. This doin Elliphant is doin a Big Up for al wounded dogs out there. Dusty angels… gods favourite angels. What do you listen to - for inspiration or just for pleasure? Billie Holiday. Do you feel the English language allows a different expressive freedom than your native Swedish? In a way yes… but am doin ma own language n ma own spelling. That is to a statement of perfection in imperfection. King is a choise!! U gada fool life foh life fool u. What do you most look forward to in the nearest future? I don’t know…. I know it’s the random that really bliss u. N expectations ruins that. Any plans to do a gig in Amsterdam..? I have big love for Amsterdam n the people over there… They know a good time for sure… so soon I guess. BlissEh! more info here : oohbrilliant.com/artist/elliphant/ www.lottarox.com 24
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Anastasia: Resurrection “Wandering memory”
“I found my whole story for this photoshoot in the heart of Anastasia Romanov and with this editorial I want to recreate a certain nostalgic mood. Get a glimpse at a lost person, who is not sure who she really is. She might be royal and she might just be a trapped ghost within grand walls of her own mind. I used also as inspiration the fact that Anastasia’s identity became kind of a mystery when a woman by the name Anna Anderson stole her name, claiming that she was the lost princess. Most people considdered her a fraud but some, even some members of the Romanov’s closest friends and relatives believed that she was Anastasia. At this time in Russia there was maybe the need to believe in romance and miracles, as they had been experiencing hard times. Perhaps a little hope was kindled when rumours started that Anastasia Romanov, the youngest daughter of the Tsars, had survived her family’s sad fate. For the fashion story, it is always hard to take something very historical and use it so that it works for today. I am mixing a lot of vintage clothing with new clothes. Clothes found at antique and flee markets mostly in Milan, but also in Paris. I thank the designers that were so kind to give me their pieces, especially Alexandra Westfal and Renfang Hu. The headpiece was made by me with real hair. The still life within the editorial is a way to rest the eyes and open the photoshoot up a little bit. Using many different objects that have been abandoned in this old villa. All these objects are one of a kind found in markets. F.exs. The old knitted ballerina training shoes. The video preview is a kind of mood video and a trailer to the shooting, and is directed by me, filmed by Rebekka Fagnani and Enrico Lenarduzzi, and edited by Stefano Crivellaris.”
“From the ashes of fire deep inside my mind, there will be a resurrection. Myself, a lost royalty. Myself, the grand mystery. Myself, Anastasia.” Styling and Realisation by Friðrik Árnason Photography by Rebekka Fagnani Make up and hair by Nicole Krunic Model Rebeka Jakab @ 2morrowmodels Milan Assistant Enrico Lenarduzzi
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eten met kwaliteit
www.iLekker.nl 41
MARK JANICELLO
voodoo & art
MARK JANICELLO HAS BEEN AN ARTIST SINCE HE WAS 4 YEARS OLD. HE HAS WORKED IN EVERY PERFORMANCE MEDIUM FROM OPERA TO TELEVISION TO MUSICAL, ROCK, POP AND FILM. AS A PAINTER, HE HAS ENJOYED 11 SUCCESSFUL INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS AND CURRENTLY OWNS GALLERY LARAVEN IN AMSTERDAM. 42
“Do do that voodoo, that you do so well....” is a lyric from Cole Porter’s immortal hit “You do something to me.” Some governments and most businesses have been accused at one time or the other of “Voodoo Economics.” They have been known to “cook their books” (amoung other things) to please or appease their constituents or stockholders. But, I have decided that “economic voodoo” can really be useful... if you know how to use it to your own benefit. Are big governments and/or big corporations really the last bastion of evil in our society??? More imporantly, is a cooperation with “big business” really anathema to artistic endeavor? Has an artist who accepts sponsorship, or does commissioned work for a major corporation factually signed a “deal with the devil?” Let’s take a closer look, shall we? When I was a young man, rock music was a relatively new phenomenon. In the late 1960’s and early 70’s, no rock musician worth his salt would ever work with “Big Business.” No self- respecting artist would even think about working with “the man.” Elvis was cool, until he “sold out” to Hollywood and merchandising. Talk about “Shock and Awe...” In 1968, who would have ever imagined that any major corporation would want ANYTHING to do with the “Bad Boys of Rock ‘n’ Roll,” The Rolling Stones? More than that, who could have ever imagined the “Boys” agreeing to allow their song “Start me up” to be used in advertisements for freakin’ Windows software? “Start me up” coupled with Microsoft’s software ad, was the very last time the Rolling Stones ever penetrated American Top 40 Radio and the public consciousness. Coincidence?? I don’t think, so. Flash forward some 35 years later... Today, it is impossible to imagine a major movie, concert or theatrical event that does not have SOME level of corporate sponsorship or even product placement involved. ET and Reese’s Pieces, anyone?? How about Britney Spears and/or Beyoncé and Tommy Hilfiger; U2 and Blackberry; Kanye West and Absolut Vodka... The list goes on and on and PLEASE -- don’t even get me started on the
Queen of Commercialism -- Madonna. How about the cookie-cutter singing competition/television diarrhea “Idols,” “Whatever’s Got Talent,” “X-Factor” “The Voice” or etc., etc., etc.? These shows have as much to do with artistic integrity, artistry or even singing ability, as silicone has to do with breastfeeding. Despite all of the above, we still tend to think of painters, sculptors and graphic artists as the last bastion of “artistic integrity.” “Poor Vincent” van Gogh was depressed, cut off his ear and died without selling a painting.... We have romanticized artists to the point, that we think they would rather drink Linseed Oil then “sell out.” Well, gentle readers, it’s time to GET A F@#KIN REALITY CHECK. “Poor Vincent” enjoyed the patronage of Dr. Paul Gachet. Pablo Picasso enjoyed the patronage of Gertrude Stein (amoung many others). Rembrandt had the support of numerous, numerous patrons. Did they “sell out?” Have you ever seen the line to get into the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam???? “Starry, starry night,” my ass!
voodoo doll out and started sticking pins. The corporation commissioned the artist to design their House Style. They then plastered billboards with the artist’s designs everywhere in that city one month prior to the art exhibition. They hired a big PR company to promote both their cooperation with the artist and the artist’s exhibition. Next, the corporation produced “artistic” merchandising designed by the artist in question and featuring the company logo (of course) which was to be sold at the artist’s exhibition. Finally, the corporation used their own website and monster client list to advertise the artist’s exhibition. End result? “Show me the money -- Ka-Ching!!!!
Sports and business have always had a symbiotic relationship. Red Bull, McDonalds, Coke and Pepsi have plastered their logos and products into the minds of sports fans throughout the universe. Don’t you think, it’s finally time for those of us working in art or as artists to jump on the big business, Economic Voodoo EXPRESS?
Ladies and Gentlemen, success breeds success. It was a win-win situation for everyone. The Gallery got a major publicity push. The company got an “artistic” advertising campaign and the artist not only got a Sh*tload of money – but bragging rights to a hugely $ucce$$ful exhibition in a major city.
Case in point, I recently heard of a gallery that exhibited the work of an internationally-famous figure, who had made a name for themselves working with numerous fashion houses, manufacturers and other big businesses. (BTW, I am intentionally withholding all names) After their commercial success, this same artist wanted to make the move into the “serious” art world exhibting his “free” (non-commissioned) works.
Gentle readers, why should sports(wo-)men and sporting events get all the cash? Doesn’t art “nourish the soul of our society?” Don’t artists work as hard in their disciplines as sprinters or football players? Haven’t we earned a piece of that “big business pie?” I love Nike commercials, but why don’t they use a ballerina in them?
An art gallery in a major city was approached. The gallery owner saw this artist’s work, and while not being “blown away” by it, found it had enough merit to warrant an exhibition.
While the normal “gallery” or “art buying public” pretty much boycotted this artist’s exhibition, the big corporation simply ignored them. They arranged their own “special preview” for their clients and colleagues. Once the chairman of the board bought a painting at the preview, every other board member present felt obliged to do likewise. The exhibition wasn’t even open, and 30% of the exhibition was already sold.
All I can say is, “Please put me down for a double order of ‘Economic Voodoo’, with a side of fries and a ‘Start me F*&kin’ Up” shake!” www.markjanicello.net www.gallerylaraven.com
What happened?? “Big Business” got its
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HOOPDOOP meets
bassculture I look for collaborations wherever I meet people. This is at record stores, venues and at home. I also surf for sounds and visuals in all corners of the net, there is so much to discover and i am pretty curious by nature. Interview by: Monyart • photos: Kerron Riley
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BASSCULTURE IS AN Independent organisation located in the heart of Amsterdam that organises events, programs, radio shows, books artists and produces its own miscellaneous music. Your mission is to create crossovers between music, cultures and art, when and why did you start the Bass Culture project? I started to play records on Bassculture local radio in 2003 and played at Bassculture gigs..it was only roots & reggae then. In 2007 we decided to bring Bassculture to the Overtoom 301 (OT301) in Amsterdam with a more diverse and refreshing music programming with the Bass as signature. Besides Roots & reggae we brought more D&B, jungle and live acts combinations that were different but heavy and good with live painting at the spot. At ADE 2008 we had a pretty good line up that people still talk about in the city. Enclosed i have a youtube link of this for info; http://www. youtube.com/watch?v=Q1aR1l68Elo Where do you look for new bands/musicians
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to collaborate with? I look for collaborations wherever I meet people. This is at record stores, venues and at home. I also surf for sounds and visuals in all corners of the net, there is so much to discover and i am pretty curious by nature. Everyone at Bassculture, volunteers, artists and management students brought in some sort of creativity or program suggestion. It makes you stay open and creates the possibility for them to think ‘out of the box’. Do you have a favourite musical project that you’ve worked on? I met Stefan Miletic (Filtercutter) in 2008 and a year later we decided to make some tracks. This will now be released at Sozialistischerplattenbau label coming 18/19 october. A review and text introduction is on this Soundcloud link
by the label in Hamburg ( http://soundcloud. com/sozialistischerplattenbau/spb12022-jahdepender) In 2009 I started working more with live impulses on my set such as violin, percussions, Korg & bassguitar. The idea was to select rythms that both artists like and worked out pretty well in a live set. This brought us to play at Fusion Festival, Lion Dub Festival Berlin, Concertgebouw Amsterdam at AAA programming and many other gigs. Working together with different graphic designers and live painters gave a lot of good visuals in pictures, flyers, posters, sleeve design and art. At this moment we are working with Iva Spasejovic. I am proud she did the sleeve design for the 12” vinyl only release and the visuals for
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our Bassculture rond Volle Maan programming. Enclosed I have the flyer. www.ivaspasojevic. com Recently you started playing and producing with Daniele Labbate, an italian musician who’s currently the bass player of Kane, as well as Ben Saunders, Shaking Godspeed and other bands. Can you tell us more about this collaboration? We’ve known each other for three years now and decided to work together. We recently finished building our own studio. We are now working on different projects and really got in a good creative flow, making compositions for movies, creating digital tracks and fix gigs and recordings for the Bassculture Family Band. We arranged a programming at ADE (Amsterdam Dance Event) on the 18th of October at Odeon Amsterdam. The Mad Professor is gonna play live and dub the Bassculture Family Band for one full hour. This is a unique combination where young talented professionals have the opportunity to play with such a living legend. This is one of the strong examples of what is the
mission of Bassculture Foundation Amsterdam. What music genres or other elements are influencing Amsterdam right now? I believe there is a lot of variety of good programming in Amsterdam. I think we’re going to more creative times in Amsterdam for new programmers arrived on the scene. Besides the big venues who bring great artists for a lot of money, you have also the smaller places with more freedom and creativity. Still there are places like that for example; OCCII, OT301, Dokhuis Gallerie, Nieuwe Anita.. to name a few.. where you can enjoy the ‘refreshing side’ of Amsterdam.
the Master & mixer (sound designer) of King Shiloh and mastered our 12” release at the Sozialistischer plattenbau label in Hamburg. I gave him a project to remix one of these tracks and came with a vocal of the famous jamaican Earl 16 to add to this version. The track is called ‘Digital Age’ and It will be our 2nd release soon! Hope you will enjoy www.bassculture.nl
What are you working on right now? Any future projects? I like the collaboration with Daniele Labbate a lot and see many good things coming out of it. We will come out with our work in the coming year and fix a nice ‘meltdown’ that will bring another level of Bass & Culture for Holland as well as abroad. I love working with the Dub Creator. He is
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LOTTAROX AGENCY is a professional booking, event and promotion company based in London (UK), Florence (Italy) and Stockholm (Sweden) whose first aim is to introduce the best emergent and unsigned UK artists to the Italian Indie Market by booking the best Club Nights, In-Store shows and Exhibitions of the various countries it works in, soon in Amsterdam as well.
check out the roster and the info here :
www.lottarox.com
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PIKA eating unusual things
by MASHA RU photography: Masha Ru, Isolde Woudstra styling: Julie Ottevanger make-up: Yvette de Kler assistance: Xu Special thanks to: the Bookstore project and its membersfor the cosy kitchens: Anneke van den Berg, Chris Meighan, Dimitry de Graaf, Pauline van der Meer, Robin Haig, Rowen Meertens, Sue Doeksen, Suzan Kolen,
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Kate & Parfume
Blouse: Lacoste Skirt: Tommy Hilfiger
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Nika & Flowers
Sweater: Lacoste Singlet: Lacoste Broek: Lacoste Riem stylists own Sieraden models own
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Masha & Stone
Gilet: www.beyondretro.com Jurkje: Lacoste Singlet: stylists own Armbandjes: Thomas Sabo
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Reinco & Toenail
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Sweater: OBEY via 247, Nijmegen Blouse: Carhartt vai 247, Nijmegen Pantalon: Lacoste
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Maarten & Dry pasta
Sweater: Carhartt via 247, Nijmegen T-shirt: WESC via 247, Nijmegen Broek: OBEY via 247, Nijmegen Shoes: HUB 64
Isolde & Ice Cubes
Top: Tommy Hilfiger Skirt: Tommy Hilfiger Panty: models own Singlet: stylists own Shoes: HUB Ring: Thomas Sabo 65
Nathalie & Clay
Blouse: Lacoste Pullover: Lacoste Live Short: Lacoste Soks: models own Riem: stylists own Shoes: HUB 66
Dana & Seeds
Blouse: Tommy Hilfiger Sieraden: stylists own
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HOOPDOOP meets
domenico cioffi Fashion designer Interview by: Monyart • Photo: Peter Stigter
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Domenico Cioffi is an Italian designer who launched his first collection at the Amsterdam Fashion Week this July. His style can be defined as sporty & chic with attention for detail regarding the cut of the dresses and the research on the accessories. Hi Domenico, congratulations on your beautiful collection! You are Italian and, as everybody knows, Italy is famous for its fashion scene. I’m very curious about your choice to launch your collection at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. Amsterdam is relatively young in fashion, like me. The organization behind the fashion week gave me the opportunity to present my collection, and they helped me out a lot. I hope to present the winter-collection here again, in Amsterdam. In your last collection, clothes and the accessories played a big role. Are you applying the same style for the winter collection or are you working on something different? The next collection will be very different from the first, but I will try to respect my identity through the cuts and shapes. For the summer collection I had the opportunity to work on special glasses and I will continue on that for the next winter collection. I’m working on something spectacular, not only related to the sunglasses but also for the jewellery and shoes. Now that you mentioned shoes, I want to know more. Do you design the shoes for your collection? Yes I do, I have a background related to shoes. I come from Naples and we have a big tradition there, I also used to work for big brands. Any future plans? I will continue to work and expand my brand, and I would like to cooperate with Dutch and other European companies.
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I’m working on something spectacular, not only related to the sunglasses but also for the jewellery and shoes.
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WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AMSTERDAM.
ZERO20.NL
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cosimo calabrese A day, a portrait, a story.
A day, a portrait, a story is a ptoject by the italian photographer Cosimo calabrese. Every day Cosimo takes a portrait of people. People that he knows or he just met. Who am I? This is the question that Cosimo asks to the people part of the project. The picture toghether with the words, that people write down on a piece of paper, gives sometimes a surprising result about the subject of the portrait; words and picture are in some cases perfectly balanced and sometimes totally different.
http://calabresefotografia.wordpress.com/category/1giorno1ritratto1storia/
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YOUR ADS HERE? For more informations
hoopdoop@hoopdoopmagazine.com 94
YOUR ADS HERE? For more informations
hoopdoop@hoopdoopmagazine.com 95