TRAVEL
SPECTACULAR
Sicily
The author explores the volcanic island on horseback, nearly summiting Mount Etna and sampling plenty of Italian food along the way. By ANN JA MIESON
80 MARCH /APRIL 2017
U N TAC K E D
FRANCO BARBAGALLO PHOTO
A
t first it’s far away in the background, seemingly unreachable. Mount Etna, at 10,922 feet above sea level, dominates the eastern coast of Sicily. Europe’s tallest and most active volcano, it erupts roughly every other year. Yet despite its many eruptions, it is warmly regarded by Sicilians. The inferno within those eruptions produces volcanic soil, forming the base of rich agricultural lands. Thriving at Mount Etna’s base are orchards of olives, apples and peaches, grapevines, and almond, pistachio and hazelnut trees. In addition, Mount Etna’s eruptions seldom affect those living near it. Although lava flows wipe out trees and an occasional ski area, only 77 fatalities have been recorded over thousands of years, with the most recent occurring in 1989 when two tourists were killed by an explosion near the summit. Most eruptions do occur at the summit, and, although spectacular, rarely threaten the surrounding inhabitants. This tumultuous peak is our goal. Mount Etna. Starting from Castelbuono, the Transiciliana ride takes us across Sicily, crossing two nature reserves—Sambuchetti Campanito and Lake Gurrida—and three regional natural parks, Madonie, Nebrodi and Etna, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The goal, weather permitting, is nearly summiting the volcano at a height of 9,340 feet. With an ever-changing landscape, we will experience each of the many faces of Sicily. Ten of us embark on this journey: a French couple from Marseille, six Brits who keep us in stitches with their wit, and my friend Alice Fisher and me from the United States.
