20 minute read
Perfect pastry
From sustainable to luxury, in-room and bathroom amenities are more sophisticated than ever. We chat with three experts in the field to hear what consumers are looking for, why sustainability matters and how to keep up with trends and new demand.
DAVID CROISER
Pastry chef Bake & More davidcroiser.com Trends
Healthy, organic products that do not contain artifical colors or preservatives are in high demand. Product highlights
Our 3D cakes are my favorite. It’s fun to build them with my team, as our creativity in merging art and technology is challenged. Ingredients
I use top-of-the-line ingredients, such as fresh cream and butter imported directly from France. Our baguettes are made with a long fermentation and sourdough starter to produce an incomparable flavor and guarantee an extended shelf life. Talking machines
Almost every piece of baking equipment can be replaced by staff working manually. Nothing beats the traditional, ancient method of doing things by hand, although it’s time consuming and rarely an option in the fast-paced world we live in. The most important piece in the entire baking chain is without doubt the right oven, as nothing can be baked properly without one. My favorite oven is Bongard, a well-known French brand, which has a very accurate temperature and is easy to operate. Temperature is absolutely key in baking for pastry, cakes, macarons and meringues. My oven has an internal circular air system, ensuring the right temperature for different types of baking. Some items need to be cooked thoroughly at a relatively high temperature while others merely need to be gently dried out. To obtain the best results the correct and constant temperature is vital for a perfect final product.
JURGEN ELLENBECK
Managing partner and founder Home of Breads LLC
Quality matters
As there are still a lot of hotels looking for good deals, the leading brands are aware that they need to make a difference in terms of quality and service. We, as Home of Breads, focus solely on high-end products by using top ingredients, such as organic flour and seeds from Germany, natural sourdough and the best French butter and chocolate. Trends are shifting toward heathy eating, gluten-free, keto, sugar-free, dairy-free and organic options. All natural
I like products that are natural and do not contain additives or chemicals. Organic is the way to go. Brands in the kitchen
I tend to use Schapfenmuhle flour, which is made in Germany, butter and cream from Elle&Vire and the chocolate of Callebaut and Valrhona.
Machine must
All of my bakery equipment has a role. I believe that German proofers and ovens are the most effective and durable. They do not require much maintenance, are computerized and are extremely accurate. Given the fact that we must deliver the same quality every day, having high-quality equipment is fundamental.
JIMMY GRIFFIN
Industry consultant and international tutor BarnaCaf Enterprises Ltd. jimmyg.ie What’s trending?
With Covid-19 largely behind us, food on the go is likely to rise, with fewer takeaways being ordered. As a result of widespread lockdowns during the pandemic, home baking became very popular. I do think this has led to greater appreciation for skills involved in making and baking consistent products. My feeling is that savory bakery products and viennoiserie morning goods, like croissants, will become mainstream once more. They are convenient, have global appeal and are the ideal breakfast or lunch snack. Naturally, I love laminated pastry, croissant and pain au chocolat. These items are very difficult to make correctly, but once perfected they are sublime — the flakier the better. Viennoiserie can be enjoyed in many forms: plain, such as a croissant; or as a filled pastry, such as the popular cruffin. Globally, chefs and bakers are innovating, adding their special touch to classics. For example, French chef Dominique Ansell fried croissant pastry and created the cronut.
Artisanal pastry
I’m not a fan of specific brands; I prefer the originality and creativity of pastry produced by artisans. Machine favorite
The Rondo pastry sheeter is undoubtedly my favorite machine. It allows me to control the process of lamination and create consistent pastry time and time again. However, most importantly, it saves me valuable time that I can spend on the development of new products. Additionally, the accuracy of the rollers allows the operator to sheet the pastry to a specific thickness, which not only guarantees consistency in product size and weight but also provides accurate costing and financial control over each batch of pastry produced.
PIERRE KASSOUHA,
Executive pastry chef Lenôtre, KSA lenotre.com
In demand
Due to the social media explosion, food, in general, and baked goods, in particular, have become very popular among foodies. In my opinion, these can be divided into several subcategories, from what is modern and innovative to what is healthy. Flour rich in fiber and protein, and organic fruits and grains are constantly in demand. Baker’s passion
Of course, French bread is at the top of my list as a consumer and also as a chef. I enjoy crafting it with respect and love. Also, brioche holds special memories for me. Throughout my childhood and my work as a chef, I discovered that it represents a product that can be developed in so many different ways. Equipment matters
The most important equipment in my kitchen is the oven, dough mixer, freezer and fridges, especially if I’m working in a hot country. Almost everything else is secondary, although some items, like the dough sheeter, are very helpful.
FRANÇOIS POZZOLI
Baker Maison POZZOLI boulangerie-pozzoli.com Nutrition’s the word
Nutrition has more meaning today than ever before. Thanks to new techniques, like the reverse method — in which salt is added after fermentation and sugar degrades, leading to a lower glycemic index — it is possible to make food healthier. It is also possible to use new kinds of ingredients; for example, chickpea flour contains proteins that are better than wheat proteins. Through the Ambassadeurs du Pain Association, I am able to contribute to published works and online articles regarding health and baking. Sourdough best
My favorite product is sourdough. I don’t really have a favorite brand because we do it our way. Liquid yeast is the key ingredient, and if I had to choose one, it would be the sourdough of Agrano due to its organic label. Essential equipment
The relationship between a craftsperson and their tools is very personal. If I had to choose one item of equipment, it would be my trusted oven. You can use your hands to weigh, divide and shape, but you cannot bake without an oven. I am fortunate enough to be able to use the electricpowered Merand oven. It is extremely reliable, and the results are consistent.
CHRISTIANE S. TRILCK
Head of faculty Richemont Masterbaker richemont-masterbaker.com
Making a mark
Croissants and laminated dough are experiencing a revival. Twisted, colored, filled and paired with savory and sweet flavors, they have been taken to a new level. Furthermore, vegan and gluten-free products are becoming more sophisticated, remaining in high demand. Go-to brands
The most important ingredients are basic; they can make or break a dish for me. I love the German flour of Schapfenmuehle. Paired with my own techniques and skills, I am able to achieve consistent results.
The second ingredient I can’t go without is dairy, especially butter and cream. I prefer using a French butter and cream from a cooperative called Candia. I can’t recommend it enough for its freshness, high percentage of dairy fat, amazing taste and the stability of the cream, which is second to none.
Must in the kitchen
I can’t live without my Kenwood tabletop mixer. It has been my kitchen companion for years and has never given up on me! Boasting an array of attachments, it is extremely versatile. Other than that, I rely on my blast freezer and deck oven.
PRODUCT PICKS
PARTY HOASTER BY YEZIN SHIN
A modern kitchen appliance by Yezin Shin that provides users with the ability to prepare single pieces of bread at a time for a more thoughtful approach to breakfast.
LE CREUSET BREAD OVEN
Crafted from cast iron for superior heat distribution, this purpose-built shape is designed to produce bakeryquality results. LE CREUSET® lecreuset.com
BURGEN SPROUTED GRAIN LOAVES
The new Burgen Sprouted Grain loaves are designed to deliver in response to the demand for healthier bread that is good for you and better for the planet. BURGEN burgenbread.com
QUAKER® OAT FLOUR
Quaker introduces Quaker® Oat Flour, a new whole-grain flour made with only 1 ingredient: 100% Canadian Oats. Oat Flour is great for baking muffins, cookies, crisps, and quick breads, as well as making pancake batters, waffle batters, and much more. QUAKER® quakeroats.com
BEYOND THE
TEABAG
With its calming effects and digestive benefits, tea has long been considered a natural remedy for individuals seeking a healthier lifestyle. Here, two industry professionals bust the myths and lift the lid on what’s really brewing in the tea industry.
MALIK J. FERNANDO
Managing director at Resplendent Ceylon and director at Dilmah Tea resplendentceylon.com dilmahtea.com Recommended tea brand
Dilmah is unique. It was founded on passion, with a commitment to quality and authenticity in tea. It also bears a philosophy that goes beyond commerce in seeing business as a matter of human service. This ethos extends toward Dilmah’s leisure arm, Resplendent Ceylon, home to a collection of three boutique Relais & Châteaux resorts. The resorts — Ceylon Tea Trails, Cape Weligama and Wild Coast Tented Lodge — form an enchanting “Route de Bonheur (Happiness)” from tea fields to a beach and safari lodge. Tea trends
The younger generation is seeking beverages that are low in caffeine and rich in antioxidants. There is no drink that compares to tea in terms of its myriad hues, aromas, flavors, textures and synergy with food. The need to escape daily stresses has also led to a rise in chai — a delicious, comforting blend of strong tea with dairy, almond or oat milk, with infusions of mint, pepper, chilli, star anise and other spices, herbs and roots for added flavor.
Food and tea
There is endless potential when it comes to pairing tea with food. Tea can elevate taste, offers natural goodness and is also functional because it can emulsify fat. There must always be respect for tea in food pairing; honoring the terroir from which the tea originates provides an opportunity to either complement the flavors or create a contrast, while offering guests the chance to explore the appearance, aroma and taste of the tea. Our three resorts have integrated this concept of tea and food pairing at the afternoon high teas we serve. Tea on the menu
Tea can sharpen the appetite and enhance ordinary dining experiences by creating a sense of occasion. There are plenty of ways in which tea can be incorporated into menus, from appetizers to desserts. The teainfused dinner at Ceylon Tea Trails is a classic example of optimal ways tea can be part of the food menu.
Consumption in the Middle East
The latest research with YouGov showed that 66 percent of those who traveled to the UAE visited a restaurant/hotel for a luxury high tea in the past year, while 58 percent of high-income guests only look for luxury tea in their rooms. It further revealed that 34 percent of guests order a luxury tea whenever they go to a hotel. Recommendations for food and tea pairing
White tea is a subtle, smooth and silky kind of tea. It pairs well with light-flavored food, such as salads, and just about any appetizer. It’s great for when you’re just about to have your first heavy meal of the day. Black teas, like Earl Grey, lemon, peach and ginger, are frequently flavored with spices, flowers and fruits to give them that extra punch, making your regular black tea a little more interesting. When it comes to pairing with food, Earl Grey can be paired with Thai green curry, curry puffs and even Szechuan chicken dishes. Lemon tea, on the other hand, boasts a little tanginess. It is best paired with tandoori chicken, as the lemony flavor helps to bring out the tandoori taste. Within the green tea family, the most common notes are vegetative, fruity and smoky flavours. As you might observe, they’re all entirely different. Jasmine green tea has a fruity, fragrant aroma. It’s best enjoyed with steamed fish. Sencha green tea is also known as Japanese green tea and has a distinctive vegetative flavour, making it a great accompaniment to sashimi and green, creamy salads. Moroccan mint green tea is perfect for those who want a lighter green tea profile. It’s refreshing and pairs well with chocolateflavored desserts due to the fact that it doesn’t compete too much with the richness of chocolate.
BUDOOR STEELE
Founder Chawan Japanese Tea House chawanbh.com
Talking matcha
While tea trends differ based on region, we have noticed many new trends involving tea over the years, such as nitro tea and boba tea. However, matcha — Japanese powdered green tea — has created a steady buzz among consumers. Consequently, the appeal of matcha in numerous drinks and desserts has expanded beyond Japan. Unfortunately, however, misinformation about the health benefits and proper usage of matcha as a superfood has been circulating in the culinary industry. In my opinion, tea consumers should be educated on this. For instance, to benefit from its unique properties, the matcha has to be ceremonial grade made in Japan. Most importantly, it should not be mixed with any dairy. Matcha is an essential part of my morning routine because of its health benefits. Unlike coffee, matcha is alkaline, gentler on the stomach and heals the gut. Start your day with matcha and dates, which are also considered superfoods, to give you an energy boost. In addition, matcha is a mood enhancer, and the L-Theanine in matcha will calm your mind, helping to relieve anxiety and restore balance and focus.
A perfect combination
The F&B industry should pay closer attention to its tea selection and offer teas that pair well with the food options. Comparable to wine — as its non-alcoholic sibling — tea can highlight the flavor of a dish or completely offset it if it’s not carefully selected. For example, matcha pairs well with foods such as dates, citrus fruits, berries, cream and white chocolate, while houjicha pairs well with flavors like dark chocolate, hazelnut or almond. A certified tea sommelier's expertise lies in suggesting a tea that carefully matches the establishment’s position while it refines the culinary experience. We have a handful of certified tea sommeliers in the Middle East, myself included. Understanding tea
Unfortunately, tea culture has not yet spread extensively in the Middle East. When it comes to hot teas, suggesting a tea-pairing menu with each dessert would encourage and guide customers to the right tea selection and deepen their understanding of various teas. Other than hot teas and tea-based lattes, cold brews add a refreshing selection to the menus of restaurants and cafes. In contrast, tea-based mocktails and cocktails can be a creative and fun way to introduce tea varietals to customers.
AN ALCOHOLIC
TEA PARTY Tibor Krascsenics, global bar manager at LPM Restaurant and Bar, tells us why tea makes for an exciting addition to bars everywhere.
TIBOR KRASCSENICS
Global bar manager at LPM Restaurant and Bar
How are bars catering to growing consumer demand for tea?
With more and more guests turning to tea, bars are starting to consider using the product in cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktails. Tea comes in many forms and flavors, and it is versatile enough to allow bartenders to be creative. Depending But by introducing tea, you can add a new dimension to something simple. A good example is a tea seltzer of some sort.
Different types of teas also have medicinal properties. Chamomile, for instance, is soothing and relaxing, while mint or peppermint is good for digestion.
on the type of tea used, it can provide sweetness, fruitiness, floral notes, smokiness and even some form of pleasant bitterness. There are over 3,000 varietals, so the possibilities are endless. What are the latest tea trends in terms of alcoholic beverages?
With consumers becoming more health conscious, tea has definitely risen in popularity over the past few years. The result is that we have started seeing tea in bars and restaurants everywhere in its natural form. And with the younger generations wanting something more than just a cup of tea or an iced version, there has been a surge in how it is being applied creatively. A good example of this is kombucha, which also ties in with the trend of low- or no-alcohol beverages. Tea is also used in cider.
Previously, health-conscious consumers would often order a vodka soda or tequila soda, as these would be considered the “healthiest and cleanest” alcoholic options. Do you have any recommendations for alcohol and tea pairing?
There are quite a few, as the product itself is so versatile. Personally, I like classic dark rum or Cognac with any kind of black tea in the colder months. In summer, I recommend St. Germain and a more floral tea to create a high-ball or spritz. But in all honesty, any white spirit goes well with tea. What are your favorite tea brands?
There are many great brands out there to work with. My favourite at the moment is Mariage Freres. It is a French company that has been selling tea for over a century and has an array of great products.
TRENDY TEA PRODUCTS
KAYTEA COLD BREW ICED TEA
UK functional tea brand Kaytea releases a new organic cold brew iced tea that is inspired by the flavors of rosé wine. KAYTEA kaytea.co.uk
AIYA MATCHA INFUSED TEA
Premium tea Aiya Matcha announces a new collection of matcha-infused tea made from shade-grown green tea leaves. Each box contains 10 pyramid tea bags, with all products USDA organic and kosher certified. AIYA aiyatea.com
NOVELTEA ALCOHOLIC TEAINFUSED PRALINES
Alcoholic tea brand Noveltea launches its new line of luxury pralines, in partnership with German chocolate manufacturer, Leysieffer. NOVELTEA uk.novelteadrinks.com
CHOCOLATE PIZZA
Presented by Callebaut Academy, this rich and nutty trio of chocolate pizzas is an indulgent twist on a popular comfort food.
DOUGH Ingredients 400g strong flour 7g dried easy-blend yeast 1 tsp. salt 25ml olive oil 50ml warm milk 175ml warm water
BANANA CARAMEL Ingredients 1 banana 50g chopped pecans 100g Callebaut Dark Chocolate - Recipe N° 811 50g Callebaut Gold Chocolate – Gold
STRAWBERRY & MILK CHOCOLATE Ingredients 75g strawberries 50g Callebaut White Chocolate - Recipe N° W2 100g Callebaut Milk Chocolate - Recipe N° 823 30g Crispearls™ - Ruby MIXED BERRIES & WHITE CHOCOLATE Ingredients 75g mixed berries 100g Callebaut - Finest Belgian White Chocolate - Recipe N° W2 50g Callebaut - Finest Belgian Dark Chocolate - Recipe N° 811 30g Crispearls™ - Milk
Preparation Combine the flour, yeast and salt in a food mixer using a dough hook. In a separate bowl, mix the oil, milk and water and gradually add it to the flour mixture. Continue to mix until a smooth and elastic dough has formed. Divide the dough into three portions (235g each). Cover the dough and set aside to rest for 20 minutes. On a slightly floured surface, roll the dough into a nine-inch circle. Place on a floured tray and gently create a few fork marks on the base. Cook the dough at 200 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown. Depending on your chosen flavor, spread the base chocolate over the dough and pipe some lines of chocolate. Finish by adding the fresh fruit and decorations.
EMF Middle East t. +961 9 938732 | info@emf-me.com www.emf-me.com
ON THE MARKET
Invest in the right products and equipment to make cooking and other functions easier. Here’s a good place to start.
WAVE
PPDS brings advanced and effortless control and management to hotel displays with new cloud-based platform, Wave.
A brand new, cloud-based platform, Wave is designed to help bring effortless control and management of displays (professional TVs, digital signage) used in hospitality environments, including hotels, bars and restaurants.
Accessible anywhere, the Wave platform allows you to manage content being
EVIAN SPARKLING
The first-ever sparkling water across the Middle East region, awakening the senses through a unique and refreshing sparkling sensation. Evian is effervescent and refreshingly light. Crafted by its 15-year natural filtration journey through the glacial rocks in the heart of the French Alps, Evian Sparkling continues to encourage healthy hydration. evian.com displayed across single or multiple locations, and also has the ability to perform bulk updates, updating firmware, debugging screens, adjusting settings, adding basic content and receiving alerts – easily and reliably. Ensuring optimum performance at all times, Wave also allows you to proactively anticipate issues, reducing or eliminating potentially costly downtime and disruptions. PPDS ppds.com
BARILLA CHICKPEA PENNE
Barilla expands its one-ingredient pasta line with the introduction of chickpea penne. Made entirely from chickpeas. Barilla Chickpea Penne pasta provides 19g of protein per 3.5 oz serving. Certified gluten-free and non-GMO. BARILLA barilla.com
Alto-Shaam, a global leader and innovator in the foodservice equipment industry, has launched its latest innovation in the multi-cook category, Converge Multi-Cook Ovens.
Pairing the power of its pioneering Structured Air Technology® that delivers vertical air for precise and consistent cooking, with controlled humidity, Converge Multi-Cook Ovens provide expanded menu potential in the smallest footprint.
With up to three independent chambers in a ventless space, operators can now steam, bake, grill and air-fry food items at the exact same time, in the same oven, without sacrificing quality and with zero flavor transfer. alto-shaam.com
INDUCTCOOK® BY GASTROS
Gastros expands its portfolio with two built-in cooking units for the front cooking area, InductCook® 120 (size GN1/2) and InductCook® 220 (size GN1/1).
InductCook® 220 can be operated in two separate cooking zones with separate controls. GASTROS gastros.swiss
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