RentaHostel - Our place is yours: Gairloch

RentaHostel

Words and pictures:

Fiona Russell

and #woo ostelling Gairloch Sands Youth Hostel

By Friday teatime, our larger group of two families, my husband and I and a friend, had se led in at Gairloch Sands Youth Hostel.

Gairloch Sands Every arrival over the preceding hour or so had brought the same noisy flurry of activity as adults and children unpacked ladened cars, excitedly explored the large six-bedroomed accommodation and decided where they would sleep. “We can all have top bunks,” a middle sibling of three exclaimed. “Our room has so many beds!”

Suddenly, the large fridge in the kitchen was full of food and drink, the dining room had been re-arranged to seat all 11 of us at one long table and the adults were toasting each other with early evening drinks. At first, it was enough to sit or stand close to the huge lounge windows at the front of the building, sipping our beer and wine and staring mesmerised at the fantastic west coast view right in front of us. Then someone suggested we take a closer look. Quickly pulling on shoes and jackets, our group took a short walk along the quiet B8021 to reach a fabulous wide and sandy beach. With the sun setting over the sea and islands, including tiny, uninhabited Longa Island close by and much larger Isle of Skye, our group strolled amiably along the appropriately named Big Sand. It felt as if we were collectively relaxing, letting go of busy everyday lives and easing into weekend holiday mode. The plan to book a hostel had been hatched at New Year when none of us could bear the thought of a fun few days together at one of our homes coming to an end. We decided to look for a large family-friendly self-catering option for a short break before the holiday high season – and preferably in a beautiful location. Hostelling Scotland’s RentaHostel seemed like a great idea because we could book the entire establishment for our private use. We also picked a facility that is part of the #WoofHostelling programme because we would be bringing one or two dogs. Gairloch, a seaside village in the north-west Highlands and right beside Loch Gairloch, was also unlikely to be busy mid-March and we knew there would be plenty of outdoor activities to suit all ages.

We could not have predicted the weather but, by good fortune, it turned out to be sunny and calm. As a group, we packed in a lot to our mini break. Having arrived earlier on the Friday than the others, my friend Ben and I needed a leg stretcher. Ben had travelled from Edinburgh, picking me up near Inverness en route. My husband Gordon would join us later after work. We chose a 6.5km signposted walk on undulating trails, starting from the side of the B8021 above the northern end of Big Sand, and with the rewards of lovely coastal views and a chance to spot the remains of a crofting township dating back to the late 18th century. Saturday saw our larger group split in two with Ben, Gordon and dads Tony and Stewart heading off to hike two challenging summits on iconic Beinn Alligin mountain. The fabulous high-rise playground of Torridon and the wider Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve is less than an hour’s drive from Gairloch. The rest of us, including myself, Lynsey and her three children Noah, Poppy and Finn, and Jen and her daughter Niamh, spent the day exploring locally. A morning walk of 5km (3 miles) from Gairloch offered a gentle climb alongside a fast-flowing river on the Flowerdale Estate, passing a beautiful waterfall and to a height of around 130 metres where we were treated to superb views back towards the sea and islands. After lunch back at the hostel, the kids requested we return to Big Sand beach so they could go for a paddle. “Paddling” turned out to mean “fully clothed immersion” and while it was warm in the early spring sunshine, the youngsters were grateful to have the hostel close by for hot showers and a change of clothes. By late afternoon, as the men returned from Torridon, tired but in high spirits, and the children were enjoying much-needed chill out time in pyjamas, on their choice of plentiful comfy sofas and including some screen time, Lynsey and I took the opportunity to sneak away for a run on our own. Studying an OS Map earlier, I had spotted a 14km (8.5 mile) route from the settlement of Melvaig, north of the hostel, to Rua Reidh (Rubha Reidh) lighthouse at the top of the peninsula, then a narrow cliff path towards remote Camus Mòr beach. After taking in the picturesque vista of turquoise waters lapping a perfect arc of white sand, Lynsey and I then headed south, up rough heather moorland to a mast at Maol Breac, before returning to the coast road and back to Melvaig. As we ran and chatted, we chased the setting sun and enjoyed spectacular panorama west to the Trotternish peninsula on Skye, as well as the Shiant Islands, and beyond to the Outer Hebrides. That evening, our group had a night off from cooking and brought in boxes of tasty fish and chips from The Beachcomber in Gairloch. It was very easy to relax at the home-fromhome style hostel. The facility had all we needed for a comfortable self-catering break and, as well as suiting large groups with families, it would be ideal for walkers and cyclists. Again, we all stayed up late, chatting, enjoying a drink and relishing the peace and quiet of the location. A lazy Sunday start gave everyone a lie-in and a late breakfast. With school and work on the Monday, the families squeezed in another trip to the beach before piling everything and everyone back into cars for the journeys back to the central belt. Gordon and Wispa also took their time to leave, seeking out another walk at Gaineamh Mhòr beach, south of Gairloch and towards Charlestown. For Ben and I, who frequently walk mountains together, the attraction of a sunny day sent us towards the Corbett, Sail Mhòr, from Ardessie. It was a bit of a detour en-route back to our homes but the rewards were superb views of nearby mountains, including the An Teallach ridge and the many summits of the Fisherfield Forest. It was actually 10-year-old Noah who eloquently summed up the weekend away with lovely friends when he told his mum: “Being here makes me feel happy in my heart.”