West Coast Wonder

The Ship of Theseus, an ancient vessel belonging to a legendary king, is the centre of a conundrum that has been debated by philosophers for centuries. Its simple premise: if one restores a ship by replacing every single wooden part, is it still the same ship? At Quince in San Francisco, chef and owner Michael Tusk poses a gastronomic twist on the age-old puzzle: how do you change almost everything about a restaurant, yet retain its identity? For 15 years, Tusk and his wife Lindsay have reinvigorated the dining experience time and again – with fresh, locally-sourced menu components, periodic changes to the dinnerware, a rotation of fine photography that adorns the walls, and more. By mastering this art of transformation, they have forged a restaurant that stays fresh with each visit, yet remains quintessentially Quince. The results are certainly non debatable: a legion of loyal guests and three Michelin stars are the evidence.

The third of those stars, awarded in 2017, was the consequence of one significant change 10 years ago – a shift in location, that allowed Quince to ripen into its current guise as a celebrated, upscale dining destination. A decade ago, Tusk moved the establishment across town, from a small, 1890’s Victorian townhouse to its current locale – a spacious, pre-1900s property located in the vibrant Jackson Square district. “We had one Michelin star at the point we moved,” says Tusk, “But the new setting allowed us to become a little bit more refined. The cellar size quadrupled, there is greater space between the tables, and we were able to add those luxury touches that we didn’t have the freedom of space to achieve in the previous location.” Of the food, he explains, “Sometimes we get more theatrical with dishes, and have a little bit more fun, while other times we will keep a dish minimalist.” Much of the bounty used to structure those dishes – complicated or otherwise – originates from Fresh Run Farm, which Quince acquired three years ago. Located an hour north of San Francisco, in the town of Bolinas, it is run by Peter Martinelli.

We may love a particular detail but everything has its time

“That decision resulted in a shift of the menu structure,” Tusk explains. “The access has enabled us to work with the best of local terroir, north of the city – West Marin and out to the coast – which is a special area where some of the best vegetables, dairy produce, fish and shellfish are found.” Tusk developed the menu “to feel like a journey, starting in West Marin, driving up the coast of California to our farm in Bolinas, and then heading into the city for the day to have dinner. It’s an overarching idea that emphasises the produce we are growing specifically for the restaurant.” The coastal climate produces unrivalled quality. Says the chef, “We react quickly to the conditions, getting items at the peak of their condition. Within the cuisine you’ll also get flashes of inspiration from my time working in Italy and France.”

WORDS : CHRIS UJMA