AIR Gama Aviation May'14

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Mademoiselle Chanel’s favourite flower, the camellia, decorates the dial in a subtle gradation of colours; it was embroidered by hand at the Maison Lesage using the traditional needle-painting technique. This exceptional timepiece has been rewarded in 2013 by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the "Artistic crafts watch" category. Limited edition to 18 numbered pieces. 18 karat white gold set with 642 diamonds ( ~ 3,55 karats).

www.chanel.com

Š Didier Gourdon

Ladies Automatic RM 07-01

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Business Development Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade

Fifty Six

Lulu Guinness Designer Andy Knappett

The British fashion designer brings her eccentric style to Dubai.

Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud

Sixty Production Manager Chalitha Fernando

James McAvoy From humble beginnings to Hollywood, the Scot speaks out

Advertisement Manager Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com Advertisement Manager Sukaina Hussein sukaina@hotmediapublishing.com - 05 -

CONTENTS / REGUL ARS

Fourteen

Fifty Two

Radar

Interiors

Fashion and art collide in Paris, while John Lennon’s literary work goes on sale at Sotheby’s.

$ SRS XS IDLU R̆HUV UDUH and exclusive pieces for collectors.

Sixty Six Twenty Six

Motoring

Art & Design Saatchi Gallery celebrates emerging artists, and Leica turns 100.

From Bullrun to Gumball 3000, it’s time to rev your engines.

Seventy Thirty Eight

Gastronomy

Timepieces

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons opens the family archives.

Capture a taste of Catalonia in the UAE capital.

Forty Eight

Seventy Four

Jewellery

Travel

Discover how one man is turning deadly weapons into high-end jewellery.

AIR takes a look at the Alpine UHWUHDWV R̆HULQJ WKH perfect summer getaway.

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Mayfair is the heart of London. Brown’s is in the heart of Mayfair.

Brown’s Hotel personifies modern British luxury, with outstanding personal service, elegant rooms and suites, award-winning afternoon tea and a relaxing spa. The Donovan Bar and HIX Mayfair celebrate British art and cuisine, offering the perfect London experience. Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-Mail: reservations.browns@roccofortehotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com Luxury Hotels and Resorts

Berlin, Brussels, Edinburgh, Florence, Frankfurt, London, Manchester, Munich, Rome, St Petersburg, Sicily. Future Openings: Cairo, Jeddah, Luxor, Marrakech

GAMA AVIATION

May 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

I’m delighted to welcome you to the May HGLWLRQ RI $,5 *DPDœV LQ ÀLJKW PDJD]LQH I hope you’ll enjoy learning more about our global business aviation group and the services we provide as you browse through the pages. Gama is one of the world’s largest business jet operators – we have nearly 80 business jets operating all around the globe. Established in the United Kingdom in 1983, we’ve grown to have bases throughout the Middle East, Europe and North and South America as well as operating licences issued by the UAE, UK, US and Bermudan Authorities. In addition to providing aircraft management and charter services, the group also provides aircraft maintenance, avionics design and installation, aviation software, aircraft cleaning and leasing services to a wide range of clients. Gama’s expansion in the Middle East continues to progress well; our regional ÀHHW KDV JURZQ VLJQL¿FDQWO\ RYHU WKH SDVW 12 months with the arrival of a number of aircraft, along with the continued development of our regional footprint and services. This LQFOXGHV WKH RSHQLQJ RI RXU -HGGDK ṘFH DQG Abu Dhabi base. Also, Gama is now operating the only business aviation FBO at Sharjah International Airport, which is proving to be a very popular facility for Sharjah and the Northern Emirates, as well as a practical alternative to Dubai International Airport. Business aviation remains one of the best tools available to corporations and individuals who want to make time for themselves and it’s been pleasing to see a continued resurgence LQ FKDUWHU ÀLJKWV ¹ WKH ZRUOG LV WUDYHOOLQJ IRU business again and developing much needed revenue for the global economy. Thank you for choosing Gama – welcome onboard. Richard Lineveldt General Manager Gama Aviation

Contact details: charter.mena@gamaaviation.com gamaaviation.com - 09 -

GAMA AVIATION NEWS Gama Aviation FZE on track with its brand new Sharjah International FBO Business aviation traffic grows 70%

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ama Aviation FZE continues to enjoy strong growth at their MENA home base, Sharjah International Airport, reporting a 70% increase in the number of business aviation movements in 2013 compared with 2012. The regional arm of the global business aviation services company has been instrumental in expanding

ramp access,â€? commented Richard Lineveldt, General Manager MENA IRU *DPD $YLDWLRQ Âł7KH EHQHÂżWV of using Sharjah are increasing our FBO’s popularity by the day and clients are attracted by our friendly and polished service, dedicated business jet parking and hangar space as well as the fact that there are no slot restrictions in place for the airport which operates 24/7 - all EHLQJ R̆HUHG DW FRPSHWLWLYH UDWHV ´

the airport’s activity in business aviation and is on schedule to unveil its brand new dedicated FBO Terminal this year. During the 2nd quarter it hopes to have completed the new passenger and crew lounges – which have been designed and will EH ÂżQLVKHG WR D YHU\ KLJK VWDQGDUG in line with the requirements of discerning Middle Eastern clientele. “Our aim is to build on the already VLJQLÂżFDQW SURJUHVV PDGH GXULQJ WKH ÂżUVW WZR \HDUV RI RSHUDWLQJ WKH )%2 by further developing the facilities RQ R̆HU WR RXU FOLHQWV :H KDYH KDG encouraging feedback which we have used to incorporate into the plans IRU WKH QHZ IDFLOLW\ :H DUH YHU\ excited to unveil the end product, especially considering the increased ḢFLHQFLHV LW ZLOO OHQG WR RXU )%2 WHDP DORQJ ZLWK KXJH EHQHÂżWV for crew members, including rest DUHDV EULHÂżQJ VSDFH DQG FRQYHQLHQW

Gama Aviation and Sharjah International Airport are poised to handle a considerable amount RI DGGLWLRQDO WUḊF ZKHQ 'XEDL International’s extensive runway works commence from May 1 this year. “A number of business jets have already committed to move over to Sharjah during that period and are working with industry partners and airport stakeholders to prepare for the increased demand,â€? says /LQHYHOGW Âł:H ZDQW WKH LQGXVWU\ WR know that we are ready to support IHOORZ RSHUDWRUV DQG Ă€LJKW VXSSRUW agencies and will keep engaging with them to ensure that we cater to their needs.â€? The company has also rolled out a staggered hiring strategy since the start of 2014 in order to ensure it has the capacity in May to maintain its excellent service levels. The VWḊQJ OHYHOV DW WKH 6KDUMDK )%2 - 10 -

DUH SODQQHG WR H̆HFWLYHO\ GRXEOH by May 2014. Gama Aviation is also working with the airport to secure additional, dedicated, ground support equipment. It is already proud of its 30-minute turnaround times and the nature of Sharjah operations - where clients are picked up by executive car directly from the aircraft, so that just six minutes after landing they can be on their way. Sharjah International is a well located and stress-free gateway to Dubai and the Northern Emirates with travel time quoted as taking 25 minutes to Dubai International Financial Centre, or 30 minutes to Ras Al Khaimah “After considerable investment in improving the facilities for business jets at Sharjah International; RXU )%2 VHUYLFH R̆HULQJ QRZ includes maintenance, gourmet catering, refrigerated storage units, premium lounges and a Royal Majlis, fast fuelling capabilities, an onsite business hotel and a new international newspaper service which will be available from the 1st of March. Ground transportation is also important and we work closely with a reputable luxury transport supplier to provide limousines for our visiting VIP passengers,â€? added Gama Aviation’s MENA Commercial Manager, Oliver Hewson. Gama Aviation took over the responsibility for all business aviation handling at Sharjah International Airport in early 2012 in a partnership with Sharjah Airport Authority, but the company has been present in Sharjah as a charter operator since 2006. Gama Aviation’s expansion at Sharjah International builds on its United Arab Emirates General Civil Aviation Authority approval of its CAR Part 145 Aircraft Maintenance Approval. The Sharjah facility is large enough for Boeing BBJ and Airbus ACJ aircraft, both of which are already in the company’s PDQDJHG Ă€HHW DQG LW LV VHFXULQJ more hangar space at the airport.

WITH US TIME IS ON YOUR SIDE From the moment you touch down at Gama’s Sharjah FBO you’ll know that time is working for you. On average, six minutes after you land you’ll be in your car and on your way. Only 10 minutes from Sharjah itself and a mere 20 minutes (or less*) from Dubai means you’ll be productive before others will have even picked up their bags. Gama Aviation is the exclusive FBO provider at Sharjah, call us for all passenger services and aircraft handling on +971 6557 0177, email fbo.shj@gamaaviation.com or visit www.gamaaviation.com for more information *Helicopter transfers

available

• Aircraft & passenger arrival and departure services • Customs & Immigration preclearance services • Private Majlis and First Class lounges • Chauffeur and crew transport options available • Flight Planning Services • Hangar, Fuelling, Aircraft Parking & Maintenance services • Hotels at preferential rates • Car ramp access

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GAMA AVIATION NEWS

Gama Aviation targets China Marwan Khalek, group CEO of London-headquartered Gama Aviation, sees China as the next growth opportunity for his global charter and management company. Âł:H KDYH D WZR SURQJHG VWUDWHJ\ IRU WKH UHJLRQ ´ Khalek told Aviation International News (AIN) at ABACE 2014. “One is our Hong Kong operation [established in 2012] and one is Mainland China, and we’re making good progress on both.â€? The company has signed a business cooperation agreement with a Beijing entity that would open the way for a China base, he said. Khalek added that Gama expects to make a formal announcement about the deal by the end of this year. “The cake is in the oven and baking.â€? Here in Shanghai at ABACE 2014, Khalek FRQWLQXHG Âł:H ZDQW WR OHW FXVWRPHUV DQG WKH LQGXVWU\ know we’re here, and we mean to do business here. :H ZDQW WR PDNH SHRSOH DZDUH RI QRW MXVW RXU $VLDQ operation, but to use that as a point of contact to make people aware of what our global presence is.â€? Founded in 1983, Gama has expanded its presence substantially since taking on Growthgate Capital of Bahrain as an equity partner in 2008. The company now manages 90 to 95 aircraft, ranging from King Airs to Gulfstreams that are based at some 25 locations on four continents, and employs more than 500 people. The company’s line-maintenance business more than doubled in 2013, with similar growth expected this year. Additionally, its new FBOs at Sharjah, UAE, and Glasgow, Scotland, are “up and runningâ€?. The Chinese market for business aircraft faces VLJQLÂżFDQW FKDOOHQJHV .KDOHN VDLG Âł7KH FRQVWUDLQW RI growth in the region at the moment is not demand, it’s [the lack of] infrastructure to service that demand.â€? He added that the current multi-day approval process IRU Ă€LJKWV ÂłUHPRYHV WKH FRUQHUVWRQH RI ZKDW WKLV product is aboutâ€?. As for hopes of loosening the current strictures on private aviation activity in China, Khalek said: “It can happen very easily with the strike of a pen at the right levels of government. It’s just a matter of the SROLWLFDO ZLOO WR GR LW 7KH EHQHÂżWV RI EXVLQHVV DYLDWLRQ DUH EHFRPLQJ PRUH UHFRJQL]HG LQ WKH UHJLRQ 7KH\ÂśUH understanding it’s about productivity, not luxury.â€?

Gama Aviation adds a Hawker 800XP to its Middle East charter fleet Gama Aviation has further expanded its UAE-based FKDUWHU ÀHHW ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ RI D +DZNHU ;3 WR its Sharjah regional headquarters. 7KH +DZNHU ;3 LV D PLGVL]H MHW ZLWK UDQJH DQG comfort ideal for business use. Few aircraft can match WKH +DZNHU ;3œV FRPELQDWLRQ RI FRPIRUW FDELQ VL]H VSHHG DQG YDOXH

University of Cambridge study Sharjah private aviation growth MBA students from the University of Cambridge Judge Business School recently completed a month of research and analysis on the opportunity to develop Sharjah as the leading private aviation hub within the MENA Region. :LWK WKH VXSSRUW RI H[HFXWLYHV LQ &UHVFHQW (QWHUSULVHV WKH WHDP RI ¿YH GHYHORSHG D VWUDWHJLF EXVLQHVV SODQ KLJKOLJKWLQJ WKH VLJQL¿FDQW LQFUHDVH LQ WUḊF ZKLFK WKH FRPSDQ\œV DYLDWLRQ ḊOLDWH *DPD Aviation’s Sharjah Fixed Base Operations (FBO) have experienced over recent years. Gama Aviation recently announced its Sharjah FBO ZLWQHVVHG SHU FHQW JURZWK LQ WUḊF LQ DQG is anticipating similar growth this year, attributing the rise to both an increase in tourism and growing awareness of the advantages of Sharjah International $LUSRUW VXFK DV LWV ḢFLHQW JURXQG KDQGOLQJ operations and close proximity to Dubai and the Northern Emirates. To achieve the goal of becoming the preferred gateway for private travel to the UAE, the company has stated plans to create new passenger DQG FUHZ ORXQJHV DV ZHOO DV GRXEOH VWḊQJ OHYHOV DW the facility.

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MAX SPEED: MACH 0.885 MAX RANGE: 12,501 KM MAX ALTITUDE: 15,545 M Large-Cabin | Ultra-Long-Range

C

OMMAND THE CONTINENTS

Impressive. The Gulfstream G550™ has set nearly 40 city-pair speed records in its first five years of service. When you fly a large-cabin G550 you are traveling with the greatest flexibility, speed and comfort. The time has come not only to fly but also to take command of your world.

ALLAN STANTON | +971 50 653 5258 | allan.stanton@gulfstream.com | GULFSTREAMG550.com Range shown is based on NBAA IFR theoretical range at Mach 0.80 with eight passengers. Actual range will be affected by ATC routing, operating speed, weather, outfitting options and other factors.

RADAR

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Image: Melvin Sokolsky, 1965. Dress from the Spring –Summer 1965 Haute Couture Collection. © Melvin Sokolsky – Courtesy acte2galerie.

RADAR

> The history of Dior will be showcased in all its elegance and glory in a new book by Rizzoli. The tome, titled Dior, The Legendary Images, features a stunning collection of imagery that brings the character of the couturier’s dresses to life. Edited by Florence Muller, the book will be released on June 3, one month after the Dior: The Legendary Images exhibition opens at the Musée Christian Dior in Normandy on May 3. rizzoliusa.com

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RADAR

Words: RICHARD JENKINS

PAPERBACK

WRITER

John Lennon’s literary work goes on sale at Sotheby’s New York

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ohn Lennon’s story is so well told, it scarcely bears repeating: a working class boyhood in Liverpool, followed by worldconquering success as one quarter of The Beatles, tragically cut short by a gunman clutching a copy of The Catcher in the Rye. John Lennon’s stories, on the other hand, are a little less well known. While the Beatle was famed for his song writing, he also kept diaries, journals and notebooks with him at all times and committed his razorsharp sense of humour to the page often. These jottings found their way into two books that came out when Beatlemania was at its absolute peak: In His Own Write (1964) and A Spaniard in the Works (1965). To mark this special occasion, 6RWKHE\ÂśV 1HZ <RUN LV R̆HULQJ WKH auction of autograph drawings and manuscripts produced by the icon. Held on June 4 and titled ‘You Might Well Arsk’: Original Drawings and

Manuscripts, 1964-65, the works come from the private collection of legendary publisher Tom Maschler – the literary director of Jonathan Cape in the 1960s, and the man responsible for teasing both of Lennon’s books from back-of-thebus scribbles to important works of art. This year is an important year for those interested in Beatles lore. It marks 50 years since Lennon’s ¿UVW ERRN ZDV SXEOLVKHG DQG LW DOVR commemorates the 50th anniversary RI 7KH %HDWOHVœ ¿UVW DSSHDUDQFH LQ America on the Ed Sullivan show, which propelled them to higher levels of fame than Elvis Presley. In 1962, Tom Maschler was ZRUNLQJ ZLWK D FRPSOHWHO\ GL̆HUHQW author who happened to hand the publisher some drawings and writings, some even hastily penned on hotel notepaper, by John Lennon. Soon after, Maschler went to a Beatles show and was taken backstage to meet John – and was - 16 -

introduced as “that fellow, the publisherâ€?. Their relationship was to yield great fruit, as over the next two years the pair combined to produce Lennon’s In His Own Write. On meeting Lennon to start work IRU WKH ÂżUVW WLPH 0DVFKOHU UHFDOOV Âł$QG WKHUH KH ZDV DW KLV Ă€DW DW Emperor’s Gate, SW7, together with Paul, Ringo and George. Outside the main door there were a hundred kids clamouring to get in. The Beatles behaved as though they were in a zoo and so John and I had to creep into a corner to do our work. John was surprisingly willing to listen to my editorial suggestions. He loved praise, as do we all, and of course he did not like criticism.â€? Lennon’s own words seem to back the story up. In a BBC radio interview, the artist said: “Once I’ve written it, I like it. And the publisher sometimes says, you know, ‘should we leave this RXW RU FKDQJH WKDW"Âś DQG , ÂżJKW OLNH mad ‘cuz once I’ve done it I like to keep it. I might add things when I

The auction of JOHN LENNON ‘You Might Well Arsk’: Original Drawings and Manuscripts, 1964-65 Sotheby’s New York, takes place on June 4.

go over it before it’s published, but I seldom take anything out. So it is spontaneous‌â€? What sets this auction apart is the sheer rarity of the works contained. In ink by Lennon’s own hand, the manuscripts contain deletions and amendments, showing exactly how the artistic star worked. Examples of the works include Liddypool, a satirical guide to Lennon’s home city of Liverpool; Sad Michael, a W\SHVFULSW WKDW LQFOXGHV WKH ÂżUVW XVH of the phrase “a hard day’s nightâ€?; and, most thrillingly, The Singularge ([SHULHQFH RI 0LVV $QQH 'ẊHOG a nine-page manuscript of a surreal and comedic take on Sherlock Holmes. Lennon was always a writer. Following the publication of his ÂżUVW ERRN KH VDLG Âł, VWDUWHG DOO

this writing long before I was a pop artist, or even a Beatle, or before I had a guitar‌ The guitars came second.� This comes across in the charming and occasionally childlike nature of the collection – they belong to a writer that never ORVW WKH DELOLW\ WR ¿QG KXPRXU D keen observation or a joyful turn of phrase.

‘He committed his razor-sharp sense of humour to the page often’ For any Beatles enthusiast or simply those with an eye for art and British history, this collection will give an insight into the mind of one of the greatest creative geniuses of all time – what price on that?

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AIR PROMOTION

The Breeze of Baros Offer Beckons this Summer at Baros Maldives

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iscover the unique pleasure of an authentic Maldivian holiday escape only available at the boutique resort, Baros Maldives. Recently acclaimed as the ‘Number One hotel in the Maldives’, the ÂżYH VWDU UHVRUWÂśV Âľ%UHH]H RI %DURVÂś SDFNDJH R̆HUV *&& UHVLGHQWV DQ exceptional tropical experience - a holiday where guests enjoy the best in Maldivian exploration and relaxation in one luxurious and award-winning destination.

Set in a translucent lagoon surrounded by a sun-drenched, white sand beach, ringed with a colourful coral reef, Baros Maldives is the ideal destination for a summer escape for discerning guests from WKH *&& ,W LV RQH RI WKH PRVW HDVLO\ accessible Maldives destinations - only 20 minutes by speed boat IURP 0DOH ,QWHUQDWLRQDO $LUSRUW - enabling guests to travel to this serene, private island resort with ease. 7KH Âľ%UHH]H RI %DURVÂś SDFNDJH gives recreation and relaxation HTXDO HPSKDVLV *XHVWV FDQ KRQH their snorkelling skills and enjoy the mesmerising colourful marine life with an educational marine biology experience, as well as explore stunning nearby sites during a snorkelling safari tour with a knowledgeable Marine Biologist. The Baros House Reef encircles the island and is one of the best house reefs in the Maldives, found just a few swimming strokes away from WKH %HDFK 9LOODV ,W FDQ EH H[SORUHG at any time with a complimentary snorkel mask from Divers Baros, the ÂżUVW UHVRUW (FR'LYH &HQWUH LQ WKH Maldives. - 18 -

Only the third resort to open in WKH 0DOGLYHV %DURV H[HPSOL¿HV authentic Maldivian hospitality. :LWK WKH ¾%UHH]H RI %DURVœ R̆HU guests can immerse themselves in island lifestyle. They can learn the WUDGLWLRQDO PHWKRG RI ¿VKLQJ XVLQJ a hand line and especially handtied lures on Hand Line trolling excursions at dawn. When it’s time to simply unwind and let the senses be pampered the package also includes a blissful private spa treatment, and a private beach GLQQHU IRU WZR XQGHU WKH VWDUV $V the world’s seventh Most Romantic Hotel, Baros is the epitome of romantic ambience and personalised attention. This summer let the awardwinning Baros Maldives take you on a journey to discover the real VSLULW RI WKH 0DOGLYHV 7KH ¾%UHH]H RI Baros’ package is available for stays from now until 31st October 2014 as a special four-night programme H[FOXVLYHO\ IRU UHVLGHQWV RI WKH *&& For further information on Baros Maldives and varying rates for GL̆HUHQW YLOODV SOHDVH YLVLW ZZZ EDURV FRP

CRITIQUE

Film The Amazing Spider-Man 2 Dir: Marc Webb Peter Parker faces a new foe far more powerful than he who is linked to the mysterious OsCorp company. AT BEST: ³:HEE¶V ¿OP LV EROG DQG bright and possesses charm in abundance. It swings into the future and carries the audience with it.” The Guardian AT WORST: “The stars lack sparkle, the story is rote and workmanlike and the action unexciting.” Daily Mirror

Belle Dir: Amma Asante Inspired by a true story, an illegitimate mixed race daughter is raised by an aristocratic family. She PXVW ¿QG KHU SODFH LQ VRFLHW\ DPLG the backdrop of social change. AT BEST: “The performances from D WRS FDVW DUH SUHGLFWDEO\ ÀDZOHVV ´ Minneapolis Star Tribune AT WORST: “The wrap-around plot... on the ethics of slavery begins to feel crow-barred in.” London Film Review

Tracks Dir: John Curran The true story of city-slicker Robyn Davidson who makes a mammoth trek through the Australian desert and meets a photographer who documents her voyage. AT BEST: ³-RKQ &XUUDQ¶V ¿OP captures the ravishing emptiness of the landscape.” TIME Magazine AT WORST: ³7KH ¿OP IDOOV VKRUW ZKHQ it comes to evoking the loneliness of being surrounded by all that space.” Sydney Morning Herald

A Thousand Times Goodnight

AT BEST: ³3RSSH LPEXHV WKH ¿OP

Dir: Erik Poppe Torn between work and family, a photojournalist accepts a “safe” assignment to a Kenyan refugee camp with her teenage daughter in tow, where things go horribly wrong.

with enormous emotional resonance, brilliantly grounded by his leading lady.” Variety AT WORST: “TKH ¿OP LWVHOI RIWHQ seems to choose polish over punch.” The Playlist

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CRITIQUE

Books Jo Nesbø leaves Harry Hole, the ODFRQLF Ă€DZHG GHWHFWLYH WKDW PDGH his name behind in a fast-paced and occasionally harrowing standalone novel about Sonny Lofthus, a man in his early thirties who’s spent the last dozen years wrongly incarcerated in prison. Terrible addictions rack him as he tries to stay on top of a swirling vortex of corruption, murder and WKH VHDUFK IRU WKH WUXWK *UX̆VGDG had an exclusive early review, and found the book thrilling and sad. He writes: “Nesbø’s scope in The Son is all encompassing, police corruption, fraud, hotel workers, SHRSOH WUḊFNLQJ GUXJ WDNLQJ DQG dealing, growing up, death – they are all in here and the little touches such as the back story of the cab driver were unexpectedly touching and in contrast to the Hole books where I felt that some characters were underdeveloped and at times just completely forgotten about.â€? The Guardian’s Susanna Rustin notes regarding Nesbø that his place in the Scandinavian crime canon alongside Kurt Wallander’s creator, Henning Mankell, and others, is secure. *HR̆ '\HU KDV IRXQG PDLQVWUHDP success by documenting the minutiae of extraordinary lives. In his most recent tome, Another Great Day at Sea, Dyer jumps at the chance to spend several weeks aboard the USS George H.W Bush, a colossal aircraft carrier. Dyer wryly notes the thousand and one protocols that exist when 5,000 men are sharing the same ship, and Book Depository FODLP WKDW KLV QHZ ERRN ÂłFRQÂżUPV his power to astound readersâ€?. The Wall Street Journal also admires Dyer’s shapeshifting narrative style, claiming: “For more than 25 years he has produced genre-evading books and novels that make a point of loitering around their subjects —photography, travel, trance music, European cinema, D.H. Lawrence, the First World War — often before dissolving into other kinds of books - 20 -

entirely. Each one has undercut whatever expectations readers had misguidedly set after the previous one, and his latest continues the pattern with great relish.â€? Americana has always fascinated Joshua Ferris, author of Then We Came to the End and The Unnamed. His third novel, To Rise Again at a Decent Hour once again explores the psyche that lies beneath success. The themes RI WKH QRYHO UHĂ€HFW 'RVWR\HYVN\ÂśV The Double, updated for the 21st century. Dentist Paul O’Rourke KDV D SURÂżWDEOH SUDFWLFH EXW D nagging sense that life is leaving him behind. When a mysterious person begins blogging and setting up social media accounts under his QDPH KH VWDUWV WR ÂżQG GRXEW LQ WKH very roots of his personality. Kirkus 5HYLHZV ÂżQGV WKH ERRN D UHWXUQ WR form for the young author, saying: “Strangely astray in The Unnamed, Ferris is back on track here. Smart, sad, hilarious and eloquent, this shows a writer at the top of his game and surpassing the promise of his FHOHEUDWHG GHEXW ´ %DUEDUD +R̆HUW RI /LEUDU\ -RXUQDO DOVR ÂżQGV SOHDVXUH in the novel, saying: “This novel has an absurdist premise attuned to the tensions of our times.â€?

CRITIQUE

Art Sigmar Polke’s work stretched across many mediums, including (but not limited to) canvas, photography, ÂżOP VFXOSWXUH and prints. His wry and irreverent humour allowed him to explore areas with each medium that many other postwar artists could not match. The themes of reality and truth, and to use one of Polke’s own phrases ‘to see things as they are’, forms the basis of most of Polke’s work. The Guardian’s Jason Farago was LPSUHVVHG VD\LQJ Âł(YHU\WKLQJ LV LQ Ă€X[ LQ WKH ZRUN RI Sigmar Polke, and looking on its own is never enough. With his art, endlessly inquisitive and experimental, you need much more than just your eyes to see things as they are.â€? The New York Times’ Holland Cotter, KRZHYHU IRXQG Ă€DZV LQ WKH GLVSOD\ FRPPHQWLQJ Âł7KHUH are powerful things at MoMA, but also scraps, doodles, VWXGLHV WRVV R̆V WKDW FDQ PDNH \RX WKLQN Âľ:K\ DP , looking at this?’â€? The exhibition runs at MoMA New York until August 3. London’s National Gallery’s Building the Picture: $UFKLWHFWXUH LQ ,WDOLDQ 5HQDLVVDQFH 3DLQWLQJ ZKLFK runs until September 21, is taking the opportunity to SUHVHQW %ULWDLQ ZLWK LWV ÂżUVW H[KLELWLRQ RQ DUFKLWHFWXUH LQ SDLQWLQJ DQG ZLVHO\ SLFNV WKH ,WDOLDQ 5HQDLVVDQFH RI the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries to begin exploration. Names like Duccio, Botticelli and Crivelli will be well known to visitors, but the way the artists envisioned the lustrous buildings found in their works is not quite so ZHOO XQGHUVWRRG &DUROLQH &DPSEHOO FXUDWRU RI ,WDOLDQ Paintings before 1500, explains the intentions thusly: “This exhibition provides a wonderful opportunity to think about how pictures can achieve an architectural sort of beauty. We can look beyond perspective to appreciate the imagined and fantastical spaces created by architecture. And the sense of mass, scale and

three-dimensionality introduced by buildings changes the balance and feel of a painting.â€? Visit London found wonder in the display, commenting: “Some of the images UHĂ€HFW JHQXLQH DUFKLWHFWXUDO IRUPV ZKLOH RWKHUV DUH deliberately fantastical.â€? Edgar Degas and Mary Cassatt are that rare pairing – artists whose work together transcends anything they made individually. When the pair met in the late 1800s, their relationship was based on a mutual appreciation of the other’s work. Their 40-year relationship is explored in Washington’s National Gallery of Art in an exhibition simply titled Degas/Cassatt. Their relationship is shrouded in mystery, with uncertainty over the pair’s VWDWXV Âą EXW WKH ,PSUHVVLRQLVW VW\OHV RI WKHLU ZRUN together go some way to explore their partnership. The exhibition came to be because of a recently discovered aspect of Cassatt’s most famous work, Little Girl in a Blue Armchair – the wall at the rear of the room was found to be the work of Degas, and so the gallery aims to explore how else the pair combined. The Washington Post says: “This mid-size exhibition is sure to be popular with audiences already enthusiastic about the work of 'HJDV DQG &DVVDWW %XW LW DOVR WKH ÂżUVW PDMRU H[KLELWLRQ in a century to exhibit the two artists side by side and invite a prolonged look at the role each played in the other’s evolution.â€? Degas/Cassatt displays from May 11 to October 5.

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ART & DESIGN

NEW BLOOD

The Saatchi Gallery in London is dedicating a new fair to emerging galleries around the world. AIR takes a look at the artists on display

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riteria for galleries appearing at the upcoming START art fair in London are pretty clear-cut: less than eightyears-old, cutting-edge and up-andcoming. And who better to decide ZKLFK H[KLELWRUV ¿W WKH ELOO WKDQ creative stalwart the Saatchi Gallery. The fair, taking place June 26-29 at Saatchi’s King’s Road exhibition space, brings together 44 young galleries from around the world, including Australia, India, Malaysia, Turkey and Saudi Arabia. The four-day event hopes to catapult emerging artists onto the world

stage while at the same time generate an environment for collectors to discover new collections. “START promises to provide the kind of engaging platform that these young galleries and exciting new artists deserve,” says Saatchi Gallery chief executive, Nigel Hurst. Over the last 20 years London has been an incredible place to discover emerging art, thanks in part to art fairs such as Frieze and Zoo. And seeing as the Saatchi Gallery presented 10 of the 15 most visited museum exhibitions in London in the last four years, exhibitors can expect great things from this inaugural event. Here are our top three galleries attending the fair…

Lauded for promoting Saudi Arabian and Arab artists is the Athr Gallery. Founded in Jeddah in 2009, the gallery space supports a range of emerging and established contemporary artists working across various mediums – such as photography, silkscreen print and sculpture. Previous artists represented here include Saudi-born Maha Malluh, Ayman Yossri Daydban and Hazem Harb. Other notable artists include 6DXGL ERUQ ¿QH DUWLVW Sami Al Turki and Saudi sculptor Saddek Wasil. Saatchi says: “Athr Gallery is attracting attention for their recent achievements in presenting the pioneering work of contemporary Saudi artists such as Sami Al Tuki and Ahmed Mater.” athrart.com

Image: Hazem Harb, We Used to Fly on Water.

Athr Gallery, Saudi Arabia

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Richard Koh Fine Art, Malaysia With private gallery spaces in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and Singapore, Richard Koh Fine Art is one of START’s galleries to watch. Founded by Malaysian designer Richard Koh in 2005, the gallery is dedicated WR VKRZFDVLQJ WKH ÂżQHVW contemporary Malaysian and Southeast Asian art to the region and beyond. So instrumental is Koh, many of the artworks KDYH ÂżQLVKHG XS LQ SULYDWH collections around the world. Saatchi says: “Richard Koh Fine Art is one of Southeast Asia’s most experimental new galleries showing a diverse range of young artists.â€? UNÂżQHDUW FRP

The Loft at Lower Parel, India

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Described by its founders as an “ever morphing arts space and gallery for distinct vocabulariesâ€?, The Loft opened its contemporary doors in 2008. The Mumbai-based JDOOHU\ R̆HUV HPHUJLQJ DQG established Indian artists the opportunity to create and curate their work at this sizeable space. And with a panel comprising eminent collectors, established artists and critic-cum-curators, only the crème de la crème of India’s art community is showcased here. This year’s programme includes visual artist Antonio Puri, designer Valay Gada and painter Manisha Parekh. WKHORIW LQ - 27 -

ART & DESIGN

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Eastern Promise JACKY TSAI BRINGS CULTURE CLASH TO THE MASSES

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n a world that appears everdecreasing in size, the distance between China and England seems to be getting smaller and smaller by the year. On the surface the culture, the arts, the very history between the East and the West couldn’t be further apart. But it’s the spaces deeper down that interest ‘collage artist’ Jacky Tsai, whose exhibition Eastern Orbit is on display at London’s Scream Gallery from May 16. He tells AIR: “I’m pretty much looking for the common parts in between the Chinese part and the Western parts. Otherwise you cannot combine them together. What I’m looking for is obviously bright colours, very detailed ¿QLVKHV $OO WKH :HVWHUQ DUWV DQG WKH &KLQHVH arts are very detailed and very delicate, that’s what I appreciate most.”

‘If you want to be a pop artist, you have to be in London’ Tsai is better placed than most to comment. Born and raised in Shanghai, he moved to London in 2006 to study at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, and has been there ever since. “Shanghai is where I come from,” says the artist, “Everything – the food, culture – is amazing. It’s always a very cosmopolitan city. In terms of London, the way I feel is that the art culture is incredible. If you want to be a pop artist, you have to be in London. But Shanghai, for me, the most amazing part is the way it combines the culture of the west and the east together. It’s like my art. Shanghai is a big piece of my art.” 7KH LQÀXHQFH LV FOHDU WR VHH LQ WKH SLHFHV on display in Eastern Orbit. The bright colours, intricate detailing and materials (like porcelain and paper) that each piece - 29 -

ART & DESIGN my fashion as an extension of my art.â€? The UK’s pop art scene is enjoying a period of success not seen anywhere since Warhol’s New York in the 1960s. And in fact, as it would be impossible not to be, Tsai readily admits to EHLQJ LQĂ€XHQFHG E\ WKH DUFKHW\SDO SRS DUWLVW of the modern age. “Commercially I really like Andy Warhol or Takashi Murakami, the way they work is amazing,â€? Tsai enthuses, “They are such talented artists in a commercial way. Aesthetically, my hero is Roy Lichtenstein. He LV DEVROXWHO\ DPD]LQJ KH LQĂ€XHQFHG PH D ORW , went to the exhibition at the Tate Modern two or three times. He was such a big idol of mine.â€? There is still much of humanity to explore, from Shanghai to London and everywhere in between. For now, the plan is to entertain. “This exhibition is for everyone,â€? says the artist, “If you love Western pop art and Chinese traditional art, you should come in and say hello to me. I’m open to everyone, this show is very important to me. Just my art being mature enough to show in a very good JDOOHU\ LV LPSRUWDQW ,ÂśP FRQÂżGHQW LW ZLOO EH one of the most amazing shows of the year.â€?

Images courtesy of Scream gallery, London and Jacky Tsai.

contains is straight out of Shanghai, but often the subject matter, dealing in human existentialism and industrial themes, has a clearly Western pop-art sensibility. Tsai got his big break in 2008, when the English enfant terrible of fashion, Alexander 0F4XHHQ SLFNHG XS KLV Ă€RUDO VNXOO PRWLI 7VDL recalls: “I don’t think I was really working with him, I was just on placement there. It was an accident. I didn’t expect to create such DQ LPSRUWDQW SLHFH DQG ZKHQ , ÂżQLVKHG P\ three-month placement I didn’t realise this Ă€RUDO VNXOO ZRXOG EH D FODVVLF SLHFH ´ 7VDLÂśV feelings on the wave of copycats and imitators that came next are dripping with sarcasm. “I think it’s an amazing feeling to see all the GL̆HUHQW EUDQGV GRLQJ WKH VLPLODU FRS\ FDW SLHFHV , VDZ WHQ RU ÂżIWHHQ GL̆HUHQW Ă€RUDO skulls. It’s such a great feeling for me‌â€? The skull motif so beloved of McQueen is an important symbol for Tsai, and is an emblem he returns to again and again, including in Eastern Orbit. “Chinese people are afraid of skulls, they see skull imagery as pretty scary,â€? 7VDL H[SODLQV Âł7KDWÂśV ZK\ ZKHQ WKH Ă€RUDO VNXOO was so successful, every time I create my skull, it’s a process of overcoming my fears so I want to create GL̆HUHQW EHDXWLIXO VNXOOV rather than a skull that will scare people. Every time I create something beautiful, to discover the life, that’s what I’m looking IRU $OVR WKH Ă€RUDO VNXOO motif represents beauty and decay. I realised how to do the beauty and decay motif, in a beautiful way.â€? Fashion and art are intertwined in Tsai’s career. As well as creating works of pop-beauty with lacquer, porcelain and paper, many designs are committed to clothing as well. Jacky says: “All my art can be essentially transformed into the fashion platform. Fashion QHYHU LQĂ€XHQFHG P\ DUW EXW P\ DUW LQĂ€XHQFHG P\ fashion a lot. The way I do my fashion brand is pretty much the same with what I’m doing in art, so I treat

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ART & DESIGN

MOMENTS TIME A century ago, Leica revolutionised photography ZLWK WKH ¿UVW PP FDPHUD $,5 ORRNV EDFN DW VRPH RI the brand’s best shots

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‘A multitude of iconic pictures have been shot using a Leica’ KDG VZHOOHG WR D PLOOLRQ XVHG E\ HYHU\RQH IURP +HQUL &DUWLHU %UHVVRQ WR 5REHUW &DSD 0DJQXP¶V JUHDW ZDU SKRWRJUDSKHU /HLFD¶V KLJK TXDOLW\ OHQVHV EHFDPH LWV WUDGHPDUN and, over the next century, through WKH LQWURGXFWLRQ RI LWV 0 VHULHV 5DQJH¿QGHU FDPHUDV /HLFD EHFDPH D OHJHQG $ PXOWLWXGH RI LFRQLF SLFWXUHV KDYH EHHQ VKRW XVLQJ D /HLFD IURP 5REHUW &DSD¶V µ)DOOLQJ 6ROGLHU¶ IURP WKH 6SDQLVK &LYLO :DU WR WKH QDSDOP YLFWLP .LP 3K~F SKRWRJUDSKHG E\ 3XOLW]HU 3UL]H ZLQQHU 1LFN Ã’W GXULQJ WKH 9LHWQDP :DU $QG ZKLOH WKH GHVLJQ KDVQ¶W FKDQJHG PXFK LQ KDOI D FHQWXU\ /HLFD KDV HPEUDFHG digital photography with great success, ensuring a new generation RI SKRWRMRXUQDOLVWV FRQWLQXH WR FDSWXUH WKH ZRUOG¶V PRVW LPSRUWDQW PRPHQWV - 33 -

ART & DESIGN

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ART & DESIGN 6.

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3. Franz Hubmann was considered the doyen of post-war Austrian photography. Famous for his portraits of luminaries such as Pablo Picasso and Louis Armstrong, Hubmann also enjoyed recording everyday life, including this shot of a man drinking coffee at Café Hawelka in Vienna in 1958. 4. Brooklyn-born photographer Bruce Gilden is known for his images of New York street life. However, some of his most compelling work explores Japan’s underbelly, including this 1998 shot of an ex-Yakuza, local mobsters who dress like 1950s American gangsters. 1. In 1966, German photographer Thomas Hoepker was assigned to photograph the world’s heavyweight champion, who had recently changed his name from Cassius Clay to Muhammad Ali, for Stern magazine. He followed the champ around in London, Chicago and later Miami, and was fascinated by his personality, wit and intelligence.

5. In 1953, French photographer Marc Riboud captured this light-hearted image of a painter, posed like a dancer, on the Eiffel Tower for Life magazine. He was accepted into the Magnum agency, founded by Robert Capa, Henri Cartier-Bresson, George Rodger and David Seymour, that same year.

2. This 1977 image by Gianni 6. German photographer Ulrich Berengo Gardin captures a British Mack took this image of wild couple parked in their Mini Minor horses in Kenya in 1964, which by the beach. As Italy’s most won the World Press Photo award celebrated living photographer, for most artistic press photo. The Berengo Gardin is perhaps best year before, Mack photographed known for his iconic images of John F. Kennedy’s historic visit to post-war Italy that document Berlin, documenting a fascinating the toil on which the modern, series of grand gestures and industrialised nation was built. intimate moments. - 37 -

TIMEPIECES

Tariq Maliq In the first of his new regular columns in AIR, Momentum Dubai’s Tariq Malik selects his highlights from this year’s Basel fair New vintage continues to be a key theme and focus for many brands. Over the last few years, we have seen various classic models reinvigorated with new materials, updated case sizes and the use of modern movement technology. This has helped to achieve a wider appreciation for vintage, while making those watches wearable on a daily basis without the same level of concern as if you were wearing a vintage timepiece. Tudor has arguably been most successful with their Heritage line, launching the Heritage Chrono, Black Bay and Advisor to wide acclaim. For Basel 2014, we saw a number of classics brought back as well as some fresh ideas. The fair encouraged us with the manufacturers’ respect for heritage while continuing to use modern ideas for materials and technology. Ceramics and silicon are being more widely used and we hope this leads to more accurate and more durable timepieces. We especially appreciate a continued return to rationality when it comes to case sizes, with 41mm seemingly the current sweet spot. Here’s our pick of what was shown‌

Rolex Cellini Dual Time Rolex also released a very interesting dress watch collection including the Cellini Time, Cellini Date and Cellini Dual Time – the last of which caught our attention. Interestingly, this LV WKH ÂżUVW &HOOLQL UDQJH WKDW LV automatic and waterproof – a nod to Rolex’s history as the ÂżUVW WR FRPPHUFLDOLVH DXWRPDWLF movements with a waterproof case (think Oyster Perpetual). At 39mm, the size will meet most people’s taste for a dress watch. The double bezel, made as a single SLHFH LV ERWK GRPHG DQG Ă€XWHG and adds an elegant touch. The main attraction, though, is the lovely guilloche motif dial– named Âł5D\RQ Ă€DPH GH OD *ORLUH´ ,W FRPHV in everose and white gold, while the dial can be in either silver or black with applied indices. The movements are based on the Rolex 3135 with added modules for the date and dual time functions. - 38 -

Rolex Sea Dweller 116600

Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial You can’t fault Omega for experimenting and testing ideas; whether it’s new technology (e.g. CoAxial movements) or new materials (e.g. Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon in ceramic). For Basel, Omega launched a number of new watches that are worthy of focus. The Speedmaster Mark II being a very attractive homage to the original while there isn’t much against the Tresor; it’s a 39mm diameter, slim and manual-wound dress watch. We chose to highlight the Seamaster 300, a tribute to the 1957 original. There is a lot we like about this watch. The dial is made of black ceramic and has a sand-blasted ¿QLVK JLYLQJ D ZDUP IHHOLQJ 7KH KRXU PDUNHUV KDYH D OD\HUHG H̆HFW DV WKH\ DUH ODVHUHG DQG ¿OOHG ZLWK Superluminova – itself a yellow patina-like colour, which appeals to us. The ceramic bezel with Liquidmetal diving scale perfectly matches the dial. The movement is the new Co-Axial Calibre 8400 with 60-hour power reserve and 15,000 *DXVV RI PDJQHWLF UHVLVWDQFH At 41mm, the case is a good compromise for the modern watchbuyer - no complaints here.

/DVW \HDUœV %ODFN %OXH *07 VKRZHG Rolex cracked the code for bi-colour ceramic inserts which created a hope for the return of the ever popular 3HSVL %OXH 5HG *07 :KLOH 5ROH[ delivered on this, unfortunately it will only be available in white gold, and we also felt that the Red/ Blue colours weren’t as bold as the original. Rolex did score a winner with the new Sea Dweller 4000, bringing it back to 40mm diameter – back in line with its historical size as well as its little brother the Submariner. Rolex discontinued the 16600 in 2008 and released the Rolex Deep Sea – making clear that the Deep Sea was another reference and not a full replacement. The new SD comes with all the updates you would expect: cerachrom bezel, larger hour PDUNHUV *OLGHORFN FODVS DQG XVHV the 3135 movement with parachrom hairspring. The case features the trademark titanium Helium Escape Valve (HEV). As the SD is recognised as one of the original professional divers watches, the new model is water resistant to 4,000 feet, comparing nicely with the Submariner’s 1,000 feet capability.

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Patek Philippe Nautilus Chrono Travel Time When Patek announced they were discontinuing the Ref 5980, we expected another chronograph reference to replace it. The Nautilus Chrono Travel Time 5990A brings back the functionality of a chronograph and adds a second timezone – an arguably more useful complication. This release builds on the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A released at Basel 2012. Patek successfully added the pushers for the second timezone by concealing them on the left side of the case. They look as though they’re part of the classic Nautilus case and the pushers make this one of the HDVLHVW *07 ZDWFKHV WR VHW

TIMEPIECES

Timehonoured TRADITION

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons opens the family archives to share its amazing collection of rare timepieces Words: LARA BRUNT

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t’s not often that you come face to face with history in such an extraordinary manner. In front of me is an 18-carat white gold automatic bracelet watch crafted by Patek 3KLOLSSH IRU WKH ODWH 0XDPPDU *DGGDÂż RI Libya. It has a stunning turquoise dial and a quote that roughly translates as ‘Only in times of QHHG ZLOO \RX ÂżQG IUHHGRPÂś $QRWKHU YLQWDJH SLHFH ZLWK equally fascinating history is an 18-carat white gold selfwinding timepiece with black onyx dial featuring the Iraqi crest, also made by Patek Philippe for a deposed dictator during the 1980s. The timepieces are part of the rare and priceless collection from the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons family DUFKLYHV WKDW ZDV XQYHLOHG WR WKH SXEOLF IRU WKH ÂżUVW WLPH in April at a special exhibition in Dubai. “My father, the late Ahmed Qasim Seddiqi, was a man whose vision lives on through the Seddiqi brand and still guides our paths today – his teachings, principles and ethics are the cornerstone of how we do business and we wanted to acknowledge him and share our journey with everyone,â€? explains chairman Abdulmagied Seddiqi, who joined WKH IDPLO\ ÂżUP LQ DIWHU FRPSOHWLQJ KLV VWXGLHV LQ Lausanne, the watch capital of the world. The story of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons mirrors that of Dubai itself. Founded by the late Ahmed Qasim Seddiqi in 1950 with a single store, the business has grown to become the region’s leading luxury timepiece retailer ZLWK FORVH WR VWRUHV 7KH EXVLQHVV UHPDLQV IDPLO\ owned, with the board of directors and executive

‘As the business grew, the company became the driving force of the region’s horological industry’ committee made up of the second, third and fourth generations of the Seddiqi family, together with 480 employees, some of whom have been with the RUJDQLVDWLRQ VLQFH WKH V $IWHU HVWDEOLVKLQJ KLV ÂżUVW VWRUH LQ 6RXN %XU 'XEDL the pivotal moment for Ahmed Qasim Seddiqi came in 1952. Following the recommendation of His Highness Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, the late Ruler RI 'XEDL $KPHG 6HGGLTL 6RQV EHFDPH WKH ṘFLDO distributor for Rolex in Dubai and the Northern Emirates. With the venerable Swiss brand on board, other luxury marques soon followed including Patek Philippe, Chopard, Harry Winston, Audemars Piguet, +XEORW 7DJ +HXHU %DXPH 0HUFLHU DQG $ /DQJH SĂśhne. They have remained with the company, which today has a portfolio of more than 54 of the world’s most prestigious watch brands. As the business grew, the company became the driving force of the region’s horological industry, organising the - 41 -

TIMEPIECES ¿UVW ZDWFK H[KLELWLRQ LQ WKH 8$( DW WKH 5LYLHUD +RWHO LQ 7RGD\ WKH 8$( LV E\ IDU WKH ODUJHVW OX[XU\ ZDWFK PDUNHW LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW ZLWK RYHU 86 ELOOLRQ ZRUWK RI 6ZLVV WLPHSLHFHV VKLSSHG WR WKH (PLUDWHV LQ DFFRUGLQJ WR WKH )HGHUDWLRQ RI WKH 6ZLVV :DWFK ,QGXVWU\ 2YHU WKH GHFDGHV $KPHG 6HGGLTL 6RQV KDV FRQWLQXHG WR H[SDQG LWV QHWZRUN RI VWRUHV R̆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¶V H\H EUDFHOHW DQG 2PDQL µ.KDQMDU¶ FUHVWHG GLDO 7KH H[KLELWLRQ DOVR HQDEOHG WKH SXEOLF WR JOLPSVH WKH KLVWRULF OHWWHU IURP 6KHLNK 5DVKLG ELQ 6DHHG $O 0DNWRXP DORQJ ZLWK LWHPV RI GHHS SHUVRQDO VLJQL¿FDQFH VXFK DV $KPHG 4DVLP 6HGGLTL¶V ROG W\SHZULWHU UHDGLQJ JODVVHV DQG ZDONLQJ VWLFN ³7KHVH KDG QHYHU EHHQ VHHQ RXWVLGH WKH IDPLO\ EXW DV ZH HPEDUN XSRQ D QHZ FKDSWHU LQ WKH KLVWRU\ RI WKH FRPSDQ\ ZH PXVW HPEUDFH DQG VKDUH RXU SDVW DV ZHOO ´ WKH FKDLUPDQ VD\V +LV EURWKHU YLFH FKDLUPDQ $EGXO +DPLHG 6HGGLTL ZKR ZRUNHG LQ WKH )RUHLJQ 0LQLVWU\ LQ WKH V EHIRUH FRPSOHWLQJ IXUWKHU VWXGLHV LQ 6ZLW]HUODQG DQG MRLQLQJ WKH ¿UP LQ H[SDQGV RQ WKH FRPSDQ\¶V SODQV IRU WKH IXWXUH ³ ZLOO EH D PRPHQWRXV \HDU IRU XV ´ KH VD\V ZLWK WKH QHZ ÀDJVKLS VWRUH DW WKH 0DOO RI WKH (PLUDWHV VHWWLQJ WKH WRQH IRU WKH FRPLQJ \HDUV /DXQFKHG ODVW PRQWK WKH RSHQ SODQ VSDFH IHDWXUHV QDWXUDO PDWHULDOV VXFK DV ZRRG PDUEOH DQG JUDQLWH WRJHWKHU ZLWK HDUWK\ WRQHV DQG XOWUD PRGHUQ OLJKWLQJ ³$W $KPHG 6HGGLTL 6RQV ZH KDYH DOZD\V HQGHDYRXUHG WR QXUWXUH D SURJUHVVLYH DQG LQQRYDWLYH RXWORRN HQVXULQJ WKDW ZH UHPDLQ DW WKH IRUHIURQW RI QRW RQO\ LQWHUQDWLRQDO SUDFWLFHV EXW DOVR WUHQGV DQG FRQVXPHU QHHGV ´ $EGXO +DPLHG 6HGGLTL VD\V 7KH QHZ GHVLJQ ZLOO EH UROOHG RXW DFURVV DOO VWRUHV JRLQJ IRUZDUG ³7KLV QHZ FRQFHSW LV D UHVXOW RI PHWLFXORXV UHVHDUFK DQG SODQQLQJ RQ KRZ WR IXUWKHU HQJDJH ZLWK RXU FXVWRPHUV DQG R̆HU WKHP VRPHWKLQJ DERYH DQG EH\RQG WKHLU H[SHFWDWLRQV ´ WKH YLFH FKDLUPDQ VD\V ³:H DUH FRQ¿GHQW WKDW JXHVWV DW RXU VWRUH ZLOO IHHO WKH GL̆HUHQFH DV VRRQ DV WKH\ ZDON LQ DQG OHDYH GHOLJKWHG ´ :LWK WKH FRPSDQ\ DOVR H\HLQJ H[SDQVLRQ LQWR 6DXGL $UDELD WKH IDPLO\ ¿UP ORRNV VHW WR FRQWLQXH WR ÀRXULVK

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TIMEPIECES

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UP IN THE AIR Bremont has joined forces with Boeing IRU D UDQJH RI VN\ KLJK TXDOLW\ ZDWFKHV Words: RICHARD JENKINS

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uxury timepieces have long been associated with aviation. Early pioneers of the sky relied on equipment that would give them accurate readings across many time zones – most important of all was what they wore on their wrist. It’s only natural, then, that eventually watchmakers and aeroplane manufacturers would come together to create watches as beautiful as they are rugged and dependable. Bremont and Boeing is one such joyful pairing. The two titans of their respective industries have applied their shared knowledge to produce two models (of an eventual eight), which they debuted at this year’s Baselworld fair. The new pieces have extremely distinctive designs, and will be produced exclusively in the UK. The series of watches is set to celebrate Boeing’s knowledge of avionics, and a limited edition series will also feature pieces made using actual aeroplane parts. The Bremont Boeing Model 1, named after %RHLQJœV ¿UVW HYHU DLUFUDIW UHÀHFWV %RHLQJœV work in material research. It comes in two YHUVLRQV WKH ¿UVW LV EXLOW IURP %RHLQJœV Custom 465 Stainless Steel – a much harder type of steel than usually seen, with considerable scratch resistance. Double YDFXXP PHOWHG DQG UHVLVWDQW WR FRUURVLRQ the steel shell is only beaten for toughness by one thing – the second option, made from DYLDWLRQ JUDGH 7L WLWDQLXP ZKLFK DOVR

decreases the watch’s weight. Under the watch’s fuselage, the Model 1 boasts Bremont’s %( $( PRYHPHQWV VXVSHQGHG LQ VWHHO DQG UXEEHU DQWL VKRFN PRXQWV ¹ LQ %RHLQJ EOXH of course. The crystal case back allows the internal workings to be seen. %XW ZKDWœV DQ DYLDWLRQ LQVSLUHG ZDWFK without a chronograph? That’s where the Model 247 comes in, with its name referring WR %RHLQJœV ¿UVW WZLQ HQJLQH FRPPHUFLDO aircraft. Like the Model 1, it’s available in WKH VDPH VWDLQOHVV VWHHO RU WLWDQLXP ¿QLVKHV but the face also holds two subdials, another nod to the twin engines of its aeroplane namesake, and will also be available with a black or white dial. Nicks and scratches DUH PLQLPLVHG ZLWK %UHPRQWœV QRZ IDPLOLDU 7ULS 7LFN FDVH %UHPRQW FROOHFWRUV ZLOO QRWH that the Model 247 is powered by the same %( $( DXWRPDWLF WZR UHJLVWHU FKURQRJUDSK PRYHPHQW DV WKH $/7 & Both watches come with the choice of Bremont’s new Seattle Hybrid leather polymer composite strap, or the more militaristic Bremont Boeing nylon strap. They also share D IDFH VL]H RI PP DQG D QHZ FURZQ JXDUG design, making for a modern aesthetic. The Bremont Boeing partnership marks the EHJLQQLQJV RI WKH DYLDWLRQ FRPSDQ\œV WK DQQLYHUVDU\ FHOHEUDWLRQV ṘFLDOO\ PDUNHG IRU ¹ DW ZKLFK SRLQW ZHœG H[SHFW WR VHH WKH HLJKWK DQG ¿QDO ZDWFK LQ WKH SDUWQHUVKLS unveiled, which will be a sight truly worth waiting for. - 45 -

Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk

JEWELLERY

Gunning for SUCCESS Discover how an American humanitarian is turning one of the world’s deadliest weapons into bespoke jewellery

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oming face-to-face with a group of young boys armed with AK-47s in the Democratic Republic of Congo back in 2008 was a turning point for Peter Thum. The moment the American businessman and humanitarian set H\HV RQ WKLV FOXQN\ NLOOLQJ PDFKLQH KH KDG WR ÂżQG D ZD\ to eliminate it. “It was clear to me that this was a big DQG FRPSOH[ SUREOHP EXW LW ZDV DOVR YHU\ GL̆HUHQW IURP other development issues,â€? says Thum who, up until then, had been working on various water projects in Africa, including founding Ethos Water, now a Starbucks subsidiary. “The solution had to inspire people to believe that something positive could come from something as negative as guns. So I decided that we had to turn the gun into something inspiring.â€? Thum went away and launched Fonderie 47, a social YHQWXUH WKDW WXUQV DVVDXOW ULĂ€HV LQWR EHVSRNH MHZHOOHU\ watches and accessories in collaboration with some of the world’s best jewellery designers. “When we launched the company in 2009 I knew that we would have to inspire people to help the cause beyond the sense that this issue was an impossible one to tackle,â€? he says. Âł:H WDNH FRQÂżVFDWHG $. ULĂ€HV IURP WKH 'HPRFUDWLF Republic of Congo, which we literally deconstructed and brought back to the United States in our suitcases, and

work with high-end jewellery, art and watch designers to transform the weapons. Proceeds from the sales of these items fund disarmament in Africa.â€? Collaborations include the Phoenix Collection with New York-based jewellery designer James de Givenchy – nephew of French fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy. Inspired by the concept of the egg as a symbol of possibility and potential for rebirth, the pieces are crafted from AK-47 steel (which is melted down), FDUDW URVH JROG SODWLQXP DQG FRQĂ€LFW IUHH GLDPRQGV in Givenchy’s New York studio. Then there’s the Crangi Collection, designed in partnership with Peter Crangi, and comprising bespoke steel-encrusted signet rings and 18-carat gold drop earrings in abstract shapes. When it comes to picking a partner for a new collection, what does Thum look for? “Passion and success for their work and passion for our mission. We’re working on a new collaboration so stay tuned, but our newest timepiece, coming out toward the end of this year, is quite something.â€? To date, Fonderie 47 programs have destroyed over 30,000 assault weapons in Africa, with every piece of MHZHOOHU\ IXQGLQJ WKH GHVWUXFWLRQ RI D VSHFLÂżF QXPEHU of guns. The purchase of its US$240,000 steel, diamond and 18-carat rose gold and platinum necklace from the Phoenix Collection, for example, destroys 800 assault

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‘We work with high-end jewellery, art and watch designers to transform the weapons’

ULĂ€HV SHU SLHFH ZKLOH D SDLU RI )RQGHULH VWHHO DQG 18-carat yellow gold drop earrings by Crangi eliminates 500 AK-47s with every purchase. “To date we have UHPRYHG DQG GHVWUR\HG RYHU DVVDXOW ULĂ€HV LQ the deadliest war zone in the world,â€? says Thum. “Just yesterday I signed a new agreement to destroy another 10,000. If we don’t destroy these guns they likely will EH WUḊFNHG EDFN LQWR FLUFXODWLRQ 7KH WUḊFNLQJ DQG HDV\ DYDLODELOLW\ RI DVVDXOW ULĂ€HV DQG RWKHU GDQJHURXV ZHDSRQV DQG DPPXQLWLRQ SRVH D VLJQLÂżFDQW WKUHDW WR

human life and security, and contribute to continued instability in the region.â€? So with an estimated 20 million assault weapons in Africa – and the price of arms about 70 per cent cheaper on the continent – what are Thum’s hopes for the future? “We do not expect to stop the importation of weapons. +RZHYHU VLQFH SXUFKDVLQJ SRZHU LV ORZ LQ VXFK FRQĂ€LFW zones, while the cost of the replacement weapons from outside Africa is several times higher, we anticipate that the overall supply will decrease.â€? - 49 -

ASPIRE: diamonds in 18K rose gold

THE FINE ART OF DESIRE

iÜi iÀ ÞJ ÕiL°V ÊÊUÊÊÜÜÜ° ÕiL°V ÊÊUÊÊ ÕiLÊ iÜi iÀ Þ

JEWELLERY > Tiffany & Co has published the 2014 edition of its famous Blue Book – a sizeable tome which has been printed and sent to the jeweller’s discerning clientele since 1845. The annual publication highlights the biggest, brightest and most bespoke stones Tiffany has ever made. AIR picks its top three rings‌

> Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled the latest additions to its perennial Cosmos collection. The floral signature motif – made up of four heart-shaped petals – has been reinforced with the release of a dazzling clip pendant, between the finger ring and earrings. The new pieces combine pink gold with mother of pearl and diamonds. vancleefarpels.com

> Bulgari’s new Diva watch collection embodies the beauty of La Dolce Vita with LWV ÀRUDO OLNH GHVLJQ and range of colourful JHPVWRQHV 7KLV PXOWL faceted timepiece features a range of EDJXHWWH FXW URXQG FXW DQG EULOOLDQW FXW diamonds (totalling 22.62 carats). bulgari. com

An exciting explosion of colour centred around a 10.54-carat fire opal cabochon.

This 7.10-carat red spinal ring boasts 42 round spessartite and 280 white diamonds.

A flawless 15.04-carat yellow diamond set in diamond-encrusted platinum. - 51 -

INTERIORS

PRIZED POP-UP

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op-up boutiques, bars and bistros continue to surface in cities around WKH ZRUOG R̆HULQJ WKH SXEOLF DW ODUJH D RQH R̆ VKRUW WHUP RSSRUWXQLW\ WR EX\ GLQH RU H[SHULHQFH ZKDWHYHU LW LV WKDW WKH\ DUH SUHVHQWLQJ $QG LW LV WKLV 0H[LFDQ ZDYH RI D WUHQG WKDW KDV FDXJKW WKH DWWHQWLRQV RI GHVLJQ GXR &DUGHQ &XQLHWWL 7KH /RQGRQ EDVHG LQWHULRU GHVLJQ FRQVXOWDQF\ LV RSHQLQJ D SRS XS shop for bespoke furniture and art FROOHFWRUV WKLV PRQWK LQ SDUWQHUVKLS ZLWK FKLOGUHQ¶V FKDULW\ .LGV

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Image: Corinne Day, Heaven is real; Kate Moss photographed by Corinne Day, images courtesy of Gimpel Fils gallery and the Corinne Day estate.

A mix of bespoke collectible furniture and artwork will be up for grabs this month as part of a new charity initiative. AIR gets a sneak peek at what’s on offer

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INTERIORS

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the latter featured on the cover of TIME magazine and formed part of Hilton’s 2010 book of photographs about 21st-century cowboys. Other pieces collectors should look out for include a custom-made chandelier by Emerald Faerie and an enormous red artisan rug from Tufenkian. King of neon Chris Bracey will be creating three original neon pieces for the three-day event, while investors in fashion should make a beeline for the fabrics from Vivienne Westwood’s archives. Audrey Carden – one half of Carden Cunietti, Eleanora Cunietti being the other – says standout pieces include a Rupert Bevan handcrafted table, a Matthew Williamson-designed rug, an artwork by Massive Attack’s 3D, and a Peter Blake. “Shoppers will also be able to buy larger items such as

Image: Jane Hilton; Pate Meinzier ‘love’ cowboy, photographed for Jane Hilton’s Dead Eagle Trail book and exhibition (2010).

‘The pieces are so good, we expect them to fly out of the space’ sofas, antique sideboards and beds,â€? says Carden, including: “A vintage room-divider, hand-made by Elli Popp, which was specially made for the event in handmade silks. People UHDOO\ ZLOO EH DEOH WR EX\ RQH R̆V that nobody else will have.â€? Carden hopes the initiative, aptly called Spring Clean, will become a UHJXODU Âż[WXUH RQ /RQGRQÂśV HYHQWV calendar. “We would like to try to keep this event at least bi-annually – it really depends on how full the designers’ and suppliers’ cupboards get. It may take a couple of years to gather up more great pieces to sell.â€? For now, though, she says of this month’s event: “All the stock will EH SUHPLXP EHVSRNH RU OX[XU\ but they’ll come with a reasonable price tag. The pieces are so good, we H[SHFW WKHP WR Ă€\ RXW RI WKH VSDFH so getting that standout piece will be a matter of timing.â€? On your marks, get set, go.

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Queen of quirk Described as “one part English eccentric, one part Betty Boop�, handbag designer Lulu Guinness is bringing her inimitable British style to Dubai Words: LARA BRUNT

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rresistible, glamorous and mischievous.â€? These are the words Lucinda ‘Lulu’ Guinness uses to GHÂżQH KHU TXLUN\ %ULWLVK DFFHVVRULHV ODEHO Âą DQG WKH\ FRXOG MXVW DV HDVLO\ GHVFULEH *XLQQHVV KHUVHOI $W MXVW 5ft 2in tall, the diminutive designer – immaculate in KHU VLJQDWXUH V VW\OH WHD GUHVV YHUWLJLQRXV KHHOV and a slash of red lipstick – is the living, breathing embodiment of her brand. AfWHU ODXQFKLQJ KHU HSRQ\PRXV ODEHO LQ *XLQQHVV LV FHOHEUDWLQJ D TXDUWHU RI D FHQWXU\ FUHDWLQJ - 56 -

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Ă€DPER\DQW \HW IHPLQLQH KDQGEDJV DQG DFFHVVRULHV $QG ZLWK VWRUHV IURP 7RN\R WR 7KDLODQG VKHÂśV VKRZLQJ QR VLJQV RI VORZLQJ GRZQ HLWKHU Âł, DP DOZD\V ORRNLQJ IRU WKH QH[W VWHS RQ ZKHUH P\ GHVLJQV FDQ WDNH PH ´ *XLQQHVV WHOOV $,5 Âł:LWK P\ WK DQQLYHUVDU\ WKLV \HDU we have lots of exciting new ventures in the pipeline.â€? ThHVH LQFOXGH KHU ÂżUVW VWDQGDORQH VWRUH LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW ZKLFK LV VHW WR RSHQ LQ 6RXN 0DGLQDW -XPHLUDK DW WKH VWDUW RI -XO\ Âł:H KDYH EHHQ VWRFNHG LQ (WRLOH DQG +DUYH\ 1LFKROV LQ 'XEDL IRU TXLWH D IHZ \HDUV QRZ DQG KDYH EHHQ YHU\ ZHOO UHFHLYHG $V 'XEDL LV DQ HYHU H[SDQGLQJ PDUNHW , ZDQWHG WR EH SDUW RI LW DQG ,ÂśP YHU\ H[FLWHG IRU RXU QHZ VWRUH WR RSHQ ´ VKH VD\V Âł, UHFHQWO\ YLVLWHG 2PDQ RQ KROLGD\ DQG KDG D ZRQGHUIXO WLPH Âą LW allowed me to get a real feel for the culture.â€? %RUQ LQ LQ /RQGRQ *XLQQHVV VSHQW KHU HDUO\ \HDUV LQ 0DOWD IROORZHG E\ D VWLQW LQ 6LQJDSRUH WKDQNV WR KHU IDWKHUÂśV FDUHHU DV D 5R\DO 1DY\ FRPPDQGHU Enrolled at boarding school from the age of nine, she dreamt of being an actress, ballerina or singer – Âł, ZDV DOZD\V VHDUFKLQJ IRU JODPRXU ´ $W VKH discovered the vintage racks at London’s Portobello 0DUNHW DQG EHJDQ H[SHULPHQWLQJ ZLWK WKH IHPLQLQH VW\OH RI WKH V DQG V WKDW ZRXOG VRRQ EHFRPH her trademark. AfWHU FRPSOHWLQJ VHFRQGDU\ VFKRRO *XLQQHVV SODQQHG WR JR WR /RQGRQÂśV &HQWUDO 6DLQW 0DUWLQV &ROOHJH WR VWXG\ WKHDWUH GHVLJQ ,QVWHDG VKH VSHQW

‘A lot of my personality goes into my designs’ D \HDU VWXG\LQJ JUDSKLF GHVLJQ DW WKH 8QLYHUVLW\ RI Cape Town, after her father, who had now switched to a career in banking, was posted to South Africa. Soon after she was talent-spotted, became a model and moved to Paris, which proved to be a SLYRWDO PRPHQW LQ KHU VW\OH HYROXWLRQ VKH VD\V Âł7KLV LV ZKHUH , JRW WR JHW D UHDO VHQVH RI ZKDW P\ SHUVRQDO VW\OH ZDV WKLV ZDV WKH WLPH , VWDUWHG WR wear red lipstick and I seemed to get noticed for it. 6LQFH WKHQ WKDW KDV IRUPHG LQWR P\ VLJQDWXUH ORRN DQG RI FRXUVH VKLQHV WKURXJK LQ P\ GHVLJQV ´ ShH UHWXUQHG WR /RQGRQ LQ ZKHUH VKH PHW – and later married – Valentine Guinness, scion of WKH JUHDW ,ULVK EUHZLQJ IDPLO\ ZLWK ZKRP VKH KDV two daughters (the couple, who separated a decade DJR ṘFLDOO\ GLYRUFHG ODVW \HDU DQG UHPDLQ FORVH $ IHZ \HDUV ODWHU DW WKH DJH RI WKH /XOX *XLQQHVV ODEHO ZDV ERUQ Âł:HOO , VWDUWHG R̆ ZRUNLQJ LQ P\ EDVHPHQW ZKHUH , GHVLJQHG D EULHIFDVH FDOOHG WKH /XOX %DJ ´ VKH VD\V Âł,W HQGHG XS VHOOLQJ IDQWDVWLFDOO\ ZHOO DQG , UHDOO\ HQMR\HG KDYLQJ DQ RXWOHW IRU P\ FUHDWLYLW\ VR FRQWLQXHG to design more bags.â€? - 58 -

HeU GDLQW\ ZKLPVLFDO GHVLJQV Âą IURP KDQGEDJV LQ WKH VKDSH RI Ă€RUDO EDVNHWV WR WRWHV DSSOLTXHG ZLWK 6FRWWLH GRJV Âą TXLFNO\ FDXJKW RQ DQG ZHUH VRRQ stocked in some of the world’s most prestigious GHSDUWPHQW VWRUHV :K\ GRHV VKH WKLQN KHU XQLTXH EUDQG RI %ULWLVKQHVV WUDQVODWHV VR well across the globe? “For me, I believe LW LV RXU VHQVH RI KXPRXU 7KH VOLJKWO\ HFFHQWULF ZD\ ZH OLYH RXU OLYHV DQG , GHÂżQLWHO\ DOORZ P\ GHVLJQV WR UHSUHVHQW WKLV ´ VKH VD\V ThH GLVWLQFWLYH 'DOL HVTXH lips clutch remains the brand’s VWDSOH DFFHVVRU\ ZKLOH KHU )ORULVW %DVNHW D EODFN satin vase-shaped handbag with red velvet roses on top, has achieved iconic

status as part of the permanent fashion collection at the 9LFWRULD DQG $OEHUW 0XVHXP LQ /RQGRQ Âł:LWK D ORW RI VXSSRUW DORQJ WKH ZD\ IURP WKH OLNHV RI WKH ODWH IDVKLRQ GHVLJQHU -RVHSK DV ZHOO DV IDEXORXV VXSSRUW IURP WKH 9 $ 0XVHXP WKH EXVLQHVV KDV JRQH IURP VWUHQJWK WR VWUHQJWK ´ VD\V *XLQQHVV 'Hspite having no formal training in fashion design, LQ *XLQQHVV ZDV DZDUGHG DQ 2%( 2UGHU RI WKH %ULWLVK (PSLUH LQ UHFRJQLWLRQ RI KHU FRQWULEXWLRQ WR WKH IDVKLRQ LQGXVWU\ $Q KRQRUDU\ GRFWRUDWH IROORZHG LQ IURP 8QLYHUVLW\ RI WKH $UWV /RQGRQ KRPH RI UHQRZQHG IDVKLRQ FROOHJHV &HQWUDO 6DLQW 0DUWLQV DQG WKH /RQGRQ &ROOHJH RI )DVKLRQ Âł0\ PRVW UHFHQW SURXGHVW PRPHQW ZRXOG KDYH WR EH VHHLQJ .DWH 0RVV ZHDULQJ P\ OLSV FOXWFK GXULQJ ODVW VHDVRQÂśV /RQGRQ )DVKLRQ :HHN ´ VKH VD\V Guinness credits Italian fashion designer Elsa 6FKLDSDUHOOL DV KHU LQVSLUDWLRQ DQG VD\V VKH OLYHV E\ KHU PRWWR Âľ'DUH WR EH GL̆HUHQWÂś Âł6KH ZDVQÂśW afraid to push boundaries and her DYDQW JDUGH GHVLJQV ZHUH WUXO\ LQVSLUDWLRQDO ´ VKH VD\V Âł6KHÂśV EHHQ P\ PXVH IRU WKH GXUDWLRQ RI P\ FDUHHU , SXW LW GRZQ WR KHU unrivalled combination of humour, wit, sophisticated intelligence and HOHJDQW VW\OH ´

ThH QHZ 'XEDL ERXWLTXH ZLOO IROORZ WKH VDPH DHVWKHWLF DV *XLQQHVVÂś Ă€DJVKLS /RQGRQ VWRUH ZLWK D EODFN and white colour scheme and splashes of red. It will showcase classic designs alongside her latest autumn/ ZLQWHU FROOHFWLRQ LQVSLUHG E\ +HQUL 0DWLVVHÂśV SDSHU FXW RXWV Âą DQ H\H FDWFKLQJ SHULRG LQ WKH ODWH V which saw the French artist swap painting for cutting into painted paper with scissors. “His bold and simple DUWZRUNV DUH WKH EDVLV IRU P\ HDUOLHU GHVLJQV DQG , KDYH KDG WKH MR\ RI UHYLVLWLQJ WKHP LQ P\ WK \HDU RI GHVLJQ ´ she explains. AnG ZKLOH WKH IDVKLRQ LQGXVWU\ FDQ VRPHWLPHV EH

‘As Dubai is an ever expanding market I wanted to be part of it’ DFFXVHG RI WDNLQJ LWVHOI D OLWWOH WRR VHULRXVO\ *XLQQHVV VD\V VKH ZDQWV ÂłWR EULQJ D OLWWOH ELW RI OLJKW KHDUWHGQHVV WR ZRPHQÂśV OLYHV´ 6KH VD\V Âł$ ORW RI P\ SHUVRQDOLW\ JRHV LQWR P\ GHVLJQV DQG , RIWHQ KHDU EDFN IURP FXVWRPHUV WKDW P\ EDJV DGG D OLWWOH ELW RI KDSSLQHVV DQG HQMR\PHQW WR WKHLU OLYHV , EHOLHYH WKH\ SURYLGH D IRUP RI H[SUHVVLRQ DQG KRSH WKLV ZLOO EH WKH VDPH IRU RXU 0LGGOH (DVWHUQ customers.â€?

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THE X FACTOR Once touted as ‘the next Hugh Grant’, James McAvoy has proven he’s more WKDQ MXVW ÀRSS\ KDLU DQG EDE\ EOXHV +H WDONV WR $,5 DERXW PLVVLRQDULHV PXWDQW VXSHUKHURHV DQG WKH SV\FKRORJLFDO WROO RI SOD\LQJ 0DFEHWK

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Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye

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‘People are quite used to the fact that I don’t talk about my private life and the paparazzi don’t usually bother me’

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MOTORING

RALLY the TROOPS Exclusive cross-country tours bring luxury vehicles together for elite adventures

Luxury motor rallies are becoming more and more popular, as collectors and enthusiasts take in the sights of the world from behind the wheels of their beloved DXWRPRELOHV $,5 SLFNV WKH ÂżYH PRVW JODPRURXVÂŤ

1. Bullrun The Bullrun is not about the race; it’s about the experience. Each year the journey covers a few thousand miles of the US, and this year’s run takes entrants from New York City to Scottsdale Arizona, over the course of seven days from June 7 onwards – but apart from those two points, thousands of miles apart, the day’s driving is kept secret from entrants until the last possible moment. The entry criteria is a cool US$20,000 per team – and you’ll need to be driving something special – Lamborghinis, Maseratis and Ferraris line the pole position spots.

2. Modball Rally Europe A hedonistic blast from London to Ibiza, the Modball Rally revs its engines in London’s Waterloo Place on June 20, and concludes in San Antonio +DUERXU ,EL]D ¿YH GD\V later. Party stops in Paris, Lyon, Barcelona and Valencia break up the

1. - 66 -

- 67 -

MOTORING

3.

- 68 -

driving. European sports cars rule the roost here – Porsches, Ferraris and Audis will line WKH VWUHHWV DORQJ ZLWK ¿UH WUXFNV OLPRV DQG anything exceptional on four wheels. The entry fee is a modest US$2,000 per person, and more important than anything else is your VWD\LQJ SRZHU ¹ WKLV LV D ¿YH GD\ SDUW\ QRW D stately tour.

3. H&H Classic Rally Vintage is the watchword in this spectacular rally. Events are put on worldwide, but the best place to see pre-war and classic vehicles is the Paris-Madrid tour, taking place from May 22-25. 1963 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud IIIs, 1930 Ford Model As and even a few gleaming Jaguar MkIIs will cruise the boulevards and lanes of Europe in this quiet ramble. The roads DUH DOO SLFNHG VSHFL¿FDOO\ WR EH JHQWOH RQ WKH vintage cars’ tyres and suspension, and speed is not of the essence – enjoying the scenery from your classic vehicle is the order of the day.

2.

4. Dubai Grand Parade 'XEDLœV ,QWHUQDWLRQDO 0RWRU 6KRZ LV D ¿[WXUH in the Middle East’s Automotive character since it launched last year with a 500-car display of luxury not seen anywhere else. Around US$135 million worth of engines made their way down Sheikh Zayed Road, IURQWHG E\ 'XEDL 3ROLFHœV ÀHHW RI JUHHQ DQG white Lamborghinis. The event was such a success, plans are already afoot to repeat the performance in 2014 to create a regular display of Dubai’s standing in the world of luxury motor vehicles.

5. Gumball 3000

5. 4.

1. 2. 3. 4.

H&H Classic Rally H&H Classic Rally Modball Rally Gumball 3000 - 69 -

One of the biggest rallies in the world, Gumball 3000 needs no introduction to petrolheads. Running since 1999, the US$56,000 dollar race has been getting more ambitious by the year. 2014’s rally runs from Miami to Ibiza – over seven days, ¿YH FRXQWULHV DQG PLOHV WDNLQJ LQ castles, football stadia and motor racing circuits along the way. You’ll see everything on the Gumball – from roadworthy F1 cars to Batman’s Tumbler, and every kind of supercar in between.

GASTRONOMY

C

atalonia, the autonomous region of Spain, has a unique and confusing political history. Fortunately its cuisine does not – EROG VDOW\ Ă€DYRXUV WKDW GUDZ RQ the soil and the sea. Abu Dhabi’s ÂżYH VWDU 5RVHZRRG +RWHO LV RQH RI WKH ÂżUVW KLJK HQG ORFDWLRQV LQ WKH Middle East to bring Catalonian Ă€DYRXUV WR WKH DUHD ZLWK WKHLU glorious restaurant Catalan. And ZLWK LW FRPHV FKHI $QWRQLR 6DH] hotly tipped from securing his second Michelin star at Barcelona’s Lasarte restaurant in 2009. “It’s D ORQJ ZD\ IURP &DWDORQLD ´ VD\V the chef, “And there are a lot of GL̆HUHQFHV EHWZHHQ WKH FLWLHV :H FDQÂśW FRPSDUH $EX 'KDEL ZLWK Barcelona in terms of produce, in WHUPV RI IRRG DQG GULQNV %XW ZKDW \RX KDYH KHUH LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW DUH WKHVH ÂżYH VWDU KRWHOV ZKHUH \RX FDQ ÂżQG VSHFWDFXODU UHVWDXUDQWV LQ stunning properties. And anything WKDW LV DYDLODEOH LQ (XURSH LQ DQ\ PDUNHW LV DYDLODEOH KHUH ,W PD\EH takes more time to get it, but 100 per FHQW RI WKH WKLQJV WKDW , XVHG WR KDYH LQ %DUFHORQD Âą, FDQ KDYH WKHP KHUH ´ It’s a good thing, too. The recipes and ingredients used at Catalan are so ingrained in the Spanish culture that to try and replicate them ZLWK VXEVWLWXWHV ZRXOG EH D IRROÂśV HUUDQG Âą IRU 6DH] KHULWDJH LV WKH restaurant’s standout quality. “My style of cooking can be described

Words: RICHARD JENKINS

7+( 63$1,6+ (;3(',7,21

,WÂśV DOZD\V EHHQ WKH FDVH WKDW WKH 0LFKHOLQ VWDUUHG FKHIV WR KDYH RSHQHG UHVWDXUDQWV LQ WKH 8$( ZHUH SUHVHQW DW WKHP LQ QDPH RQO\ YLVLWLQJ VSRUDGLFDOO\ DW EHVW 1RW VR DW $EX 'KDELÂśV &DWDODQ ZKHUH WKH WZR VWDU WRWLQJ $QWRQLR 6DH] LV YHU\ PXFK DW KRPH - 71 -

GASTRONOMY

DV &DWDODQ FRQWHPSRUDU\ ´ KH VD\V “I keep my roots in the traditional culinary recipes of the places that , KDYH EHHQ ZRUNLQJ DQG ZH GR D WZLVW RI PRGHUQLW\ LQ VRPH RI WKH GLVKHV , GRQÂśW JR FUD]\ ZLWK PROHFXODU VRPH RI P\ GLVKHV KDYH some molecular inside but mostly they’re respectful to the roots of &DWDORQLD ´ ,QGHHG LWÂśV FOHDU WR VHH WKDW 6DH]ÂśV roots as a chef truly do run deep. +LV ORYH D̆DLU ZLWK IRRG EHJDQ DV D FKLOG Âł6LQFH , ZDV \RXQJ ,ÂśG enter my mother’s kitchen and VWDUW JHWWLQJ LQ WRXFK ZLWK DOO WKH LQJUHGLHQWV ZLWK DOO WKH VPHOOV ZLWK DOO WKH WH[WXUHV ´ 6DH] UHFDOOV Âł$OVR LQ P\ IDPLO\ LV RQH ELJ LQĂ€XHQFH my mother and grandmother used WR EH EXWFKHUV VR WKHUH ZDV DOZD\V PHDW DQG IRRG DQG LW ZDV D YHU\ important thing in my family. &DWDODQ FXLVLQH KDV D ORW RI LQĂ€XHQFH from French and Spanish cuisine, because of its location. Catalonia LV ORFDWHG RQ WKH ERUGHU EHWZHHQ France and Spain. So, in our traditional recipe folders, in our URRWV ZH GR KDYH VRPH LQĂ€XHQFH IURP 6SDLQ RI FRXUVH DQG )UDQFH ´ 3OHQW\ RI LQN KDV EHHQ H[SHQGHG RYHU WKH GHEDWH DERXW WKH 0LGGOH (DVWÂśV SODFH LQ WKH FXOLQDU\ ZRUOG It’s hard to argue that the region is XS DQG FRPLQJ DW DQ H[WUDRUGLQDU\ SDFH DQG 6DH] DJUHHV Âł<HV \HV 3HRSOH DVNHG PH WZR \HDUV DJR Âľ$QWRQLR ZK\ DUH \RX OHDYLQJ D WZR 0LFKHOLQ VWDU UHVWDXUDQW WR JR WR WKH 8$("Âś DQG P\ DQVZHU ZDV ORRN DW WKH EUDQGV WKDW ZH KDYH LQ $EX Dhabi and Dubai, the brands of the KRWHOV :H KDYH 5RVHZRRG ZH KDYH )RXU 6HDVRQV ZH KDYH 5LW] &DUOWRQ these big names. The best hotels KDYH WKH EHVW UHVWDXUDQWV DQG WKH best restaurants are run by the best FKHIV 6R \HV WKHUH LV D ORW RI YHU\ VWURQJ FRPSHWLWLRQ KHUH ´ ,W LVQÂśW MXVW WKH FKHIV ZKR DUH ZHOO YHUVHG LQ IRRG culture, either. Customers in Abu

‘I don’t go crazy with molecular, some of my dishes have some molecular inside’ 'KDEL DQG 'XEDL DUH EHFRPLQJ HYHU\ bit as discerning as their European or Far Eastern counterparts. “What ,ÂśYH QRWLFHG VLQFH , FDPH WR $EX 'KDEL LV WKDW WKH JXHVW LV YHU\ ZHOO HGXFDWHG DQG YHU\ ZHOO WUDYHOOHG ´ UHPDUNV 6DH] Âł7KH\ NQRZ ZKDW WKH\ ZDQW DQG WKH SULFH WKH\ KDYH WR SD\ <RX KDYH QR VSDFH IRU PLVWDNHV 7KH JXHVW NQRZV WKH EHVW UHVWDXUDQWV DOO DURXQG WKH ZRUOG DQG WKH\ NQRZ ZKDW WKH\ÂśUH WDONLQJ DERXW ´ 'LQHUV ZKR ÂżQG WKHPVHOYHV LQ $EX 'KDEL WKLV PRQWK ZRXOG GR ZHOO to seek out Catalan for a seasonal treat. Chef Antonio has pulled WRJHWKHU DQ H[FOXVLYH QHZ PHQX DYDLODEOH XQWLO 0D\ IHDWXULQJ the most delectable rarities the &DWDORQLDQ VHDV KDYH WR R̆HU Âł, EURXJKW VSHFLÂżFDOO\ VL[ RU VHYHQ items that nobody else has in Abu 'KDEL RU 'XEDL ´ HQWKXVHV WKH FRRN “I brought Mediterranean tuna belly, DQFKRYLHV VHD FXFXPEHUV RFWRSXV - 72 -

Âą WKHVH DUH YHU\ XQLTXH LQJUHGLHQWV WR FUHDWH WKH PHQX EDVHG RQ ZKDW the sailors used to cook all those years ago. The Catalonian cuisine KDV D ORW RI PL[WXUH EHWZHHQ VHD DQG mountain, and this menu is based on WKH VHD , GLGQÂśW NQRZ WKH WHUP ÂłVXUI DQG WXUI´ EHIRUH , JRW KHUH EXW ZH GR VRPHWKLQJ VLPLODU LQ &DWDORQLD ´ 7R ÂżQLVK \RXU PHDO WKH FKHIÂśV DQVZHU LV LPPHGLDWH Âł, KDYH RQH VLJQDWXUH GHVVHUW WKH H[WUD YLUJLQ ROLYH RLO LFH FUHDP WKDW , VHUYH ZLWK D small cardamom biscuit. It’s a killer, WKH JXHVW IDOOV IURP WKHLU FKDLU ´ KH JULQV Âł1RERG\ EHOLHYHV \RX FDQ PDNH VXFK D JUHDW GHVVHUW ZLWK H[WUD YLUJLQ ROLYH RLO $QG RI FRXUVH , RQO\ FRRN ZLWK &DWDODQ H[WUD YLUJLQ ROLYH RLO ,ÂśYH NQRZQ P\ VXSSOLHU DOO P\ career, and she sends it to me on a regular basis. If I had to mention one UDUH GLVK WKDW ZRXOG EH LW 7R NQRFN VRPHRQH R̆ WKHLU FKDLU WKDW LV WKH RQH ´

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TRAVEL

Alpine adventure Who said the Alps are just for winter? AIR explores a medley of luxury retreats offering the perfect summer getaway

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The Lodge, Verbier Switzerland Perched high in the Swiss Alps, this mountain hideaway is the perfect place to retreat for the summer – the entire year, in fact. Part of Sir Richard Branson’s collection of unique holiday destinations – other sites in the portfolio include Necker Island in the Caribbean and Kasbah Tamadot in Morocco – this ¿YH VWDU VDQFWXDU\ LV ¿W IRU DOO WKH family. 7KH WUDGLWLRQDO ZRRGHQ FODG exterior houses nine beautifully DSSRLQWHG URRPV DQG VXLWHV ± VHYHQ luxury bedrooms and two master suites. Open for the summer season (June until September), The Lodge sleeps up to 18 adults luxuriously, with the option to accommodate an additional six children in the ‘kids EXQNURRP¶ 2Q VLWH \RX¶OO ¿QG SOHQW\ of ways to unwind – from the indoor pool and hammam room to the spa treatment room and outdoor Jacuzzi. The children are catered for, too, with a party room, cinema, games URRPV DQG SULYDWH LFH ULQN WR NHHS WKHP RFFXSLHG 7KHQ WKHUH¶V WKH VWD̆ ± IDQF\ D 5D\PRQG %ODQF WUDLQHG FKHI WR FDWHU WR \RXU HYHU\ FXOLQDU\ need? thelodge.virgin.com - 75 -

TRAVEL

Chalet Zermatt Peak Switzerland Looking for that ‘once in a lifetime’ YDFDWLRQ" 7KHQ WKLV OX[XU\ FKDOHW should just about tick all the boxes. Located in Zermatt, an idyllic mountain resort 1,620 metres DERYH VHD OHYHO WKLV ÂżYH EHGURRP

UHWUHDW R̆HUV VZHHSLQJ YLHZV RYHU WKH YLOODJH DQG LFRQLF 0DWWHUKRUQ PRXQWDLQ IURP YLUWXDOO\ DOO SRLQWV of the property. Modelled on a traditional (supersized) Swiss chalet, the interior is as spectacular as the outside: authentic dÊcor combined with local materials and nuances. 'LVFHUQLQJ YLVLWRUV FDQ H[SHFW - 76 -

WKH UR\DO WUHDWPHQW XSRQ DUULYDO helicopter transfers, personal FRQFLHUJH DQG DZDUG ZLQQLQJ FKHI There’s also the option to relax in the steam room, sauna or Jacuzzi. And with Zermatt being pretty much the only resort where you can ski 365 GD\V RI WKH \HDU ZKDWœV QRW WR ORYH" chaletzermattpeak.com

- 77 -

TRAVEL Chalet Cragganmore Chamonix, France One of the coolest chalets in the Alps can be found near its highest PRXQWDLQ 0RQW %ODQF 7KH VL[ bedroom Chalet Cragganmore, GHVLJQHG E\ WKH DZDUG ZLQQLQJ DUFKLWHFW 5HQDXG &KHYDOOLHU balances the authenticity of an

Alpine retreat with the needs of the PRGHUQ GD\ WUDYHOOHU +HUH DQWOHUV DQG JLQJKDP EODQNHWV KDYH EHHQ UHSODFHG ZLWK FOHYHUO\ GHVLJQHG furnishings and dynamic colours. So cool is its design, critics claim that this luxurious chalet “has enough drama and glamour to match its illustrious neighbour, Mont Blancâ€?. .QRZQ ORFDOO\ DV Âł7KH *ODVV +RXVH´

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the bold exterior (traditional stone and wooden beams with steel and glass) blends into its Alpine surrounds beautifully. Beyond the RSHQ SODQ OLYLQJ VSDFH DQG HQ VXLWH URRPV \RXœOO ¿QG D J\P VDXQD massage room and hot tub (perfect for stargazing). For the children, there’s the indoor climbing wall and cinema. chaletcragganmore.com

Chalet N, Oberlech Austria 7KLV VXSHU FKDOHW KDV VHW D QHZ VWDQGDUG IRU SULYDWH DOSLQH UHWUHDWV /RFDWHG LQ SOXVK JURXQGV DERYH WKH JODPRURXV YLOODJH RI 2EHUOHFK Chalet N is quite literally out of this world. With room for 22 people,

JXHVWV FDQ H[SHFW D WHDP RI VWD̆ to lay on the luxury thick and fast: FKDX̆HXU FKHIV VNL LQVWUXFWRU hair stylist, beauty therapist and personal masseur. Then there’s the facilities: sauna, plunge pools, FLQHPD ¿WQHVV URRP RXWGRRU LFH EDU -DFX]]LV DQG GLUHFW HOHYDWRU access to the piste from your own - 79 -

heated ski room (while you might QRW QHHG WKH SULYDWH VORSH DFFHVV GXULQJ WKH VXPPHU LW¶V QLFH WR KDYH the option). And for the kids? Well WKH\¶YH JRW WKH HQWLUH SHQWKRXVH suite dedicated to them, plus a range RI RXWGRRU DFWLYLWLHV WR H[SORUH 6SHQG D QLJKW KHUH DQG \RX¶OO QHYHU ZDQW WR OHDYH ¿UHÀ\ FROOHFWLRQ FRP

LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW

Theo Fennell, Jeweller

My father, who was a soldier as all my IDPLO\ ZHUH ZDV WKH ELJJHVW LQÀXHQFH RQ P\ FDUHHU LQ WKH EHJLQQLQJ 5DWKHU than making me join the army or go WR XQLYHUVLW\ KH DOORZHG PH WR JR WR DUW VFKRRO :LWKRXW WKDW , GRQ¶W WKLQN WKLV HYHU ZRXOG KDYH KDSSHQHG 0\ ZLIH¶V DOVR EHHQ D KXJH LQÀXHQFH HVSHFLDOO\ GXULQJ WKRVH WLPHV ZKHQ , WKRXJKW µWKLV LV QHYHU JRLQJ WR ZRUN¶ ,¶P DFWXDOO\ TXLWH WHQDFLRXV ± RU EORRG\ PLQGHG GHSHQGLQJ ZKLFK ZD\ \RX ORRN DW LW ± EXW , WKLQN LI VKH¶G VDLG µ3OHDVH JHW D SURSHU MRE¶ , SUREDEO\ ZRXOG KDYH GRQH (OWRQ -RKQ KDG D KXJH LPSDFW RQ P\ EXVLQHVV LQ WKH HDUO\ GD\V QRW MXVW DV VRPHRQH ZKR ERXJKW DQG FRPPLVVLRQHG SLHFHV EXW DOVR DV VRPHRQH ZKR WROG ORWV RI RWKHU SHRSOH ,W ZDV D ELJ OHJ XS .QRZ ZKDW \RX¶UH ZRUWK DQG FKDUJH ZKDW \RX¶UH ZRUWK ,I \RX GRQ¶W WHOO SHRSOH KRZ JRRG \RX DUH QR RQH¶V HYHU JRLQJ WR NQRZ , VSHQW IDU WRR PDQ\ years in a terrible miasma of embarrassed English false PRGHVW\ DQG VHOI GHSUHFDWLRQ EHFDXVH WKDW¶V ZKDW ZH ZHUH EURXJKW XS WR GR 0\ IDWKHU DOZD\V XVHG WR VD\ WR PH µ7LPH VSHQW RQ UHFRQQDLVVDQFH LV VHOGRP LI HYHU ZDVWHG¶ , QHYHU UHDOO\ WKRXJKW ZKDW LW PHDQW WKHQ VXGGHQO\ , VWDUWHG VD\LQJ LW WR P\ GDXJKWHUV ,W¶V DQ LQIXULDWLQJ \HW IDQWDVWLF SLHFH RI DGYLFH :DWFKLQJ P\ GDXJKWHUV¶ FDUHHUV SURJUHVV JLYHV PH WKLV H[WUDRUGLQDU\ YLFDULRXV NLFN (PHUDOG ZULWHV DQG DFWV DQG &RFR LV D IDVKLRQ GHVLJQHU 6KH¶V VR PXFK VDYYLHU WKDQ , ZDV EHFDXVH VKH¶V VDW GRZQ DQG SODQQHG LW ,¶P TXLWH WHPSWHG WR DVN KHU ZKDW , VKRXOG GR QH[W - 80 -

Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS, BOULEVARD | DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 3887000 FAX: +971 4 3887111 | WWW.19CENTURYANTIQUES.COM

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