Gastronomy MAY 2019: ISSUE 96
French Twist
Mathieu Viannay arrives on Dubai’s shores with Rue Royale: a bold concept of traditional French fare, masterfully tailored to a UAE audience
AIR
WORDS : CHRIS UJMA
T
he Pointe, a little dining and entertainment distinct that sits pretty on The Palm Jumeirah, is a microcosm of the culinary options found across Dubai: from fast food choices through to refined cuisine. Still, it was something of a coup when Rue Royale, helmed by acclaimed chef Mathieu Viannay, was announced as part of The Pointe’s opening lineup – and to understand why, a little European history is required. Back in 2008, Viannay – now holder of the ‘Meilleur Ouvrier De France’ (the nation’s highest creative honour) – acquired the former glory known as La Mère Brazier. Not short on sentiment, he deems it “A moment of destiny”. The Lyon-based bistro dates back to 1921, and was founded by Eugénie Brazier, herself a titan of the culinary world: Brazier was the first lady to win three Michelin stars and, in the restaurant’s heyday, her self-titled eatery was the place to dine. By 2008, though, it had become a “tired” (frankly, dilapidated) version of its former self. “When I first visited the restaurant it was old and broken but it had an enduring spirit, and soul, so I decided ‘Let’s go; let’s acquire it,’” Viannay recalls. Settling ownership matters with the department of Trade and Commerce in Lyon, he went to work and, to get to the point, turned Mere Brazier 64
into a two Michelin Star-experience with a stellar reputation for sublime renditions of traditional French fare. The Pointe, conversely, is the exact opposite: history in the making, and place where Viannay was tempted to lay the foundations of a new dining concept. “In Lyon I was building on storied heritage, whereas the restaurant in Dubai is a different prospect entirely,” he buzzes. “That is why Rue Royale is not called ‘La Mère Brazier Dubai.’ There is a new story to be told.” There are subtle links, though. Rue Royale is the street on which La Mère Brazier is located. The décor, too, draws inspiration from the bistro concept, and Viannay brought some of the design touches with him. The aesthetic of the entryway, the glass façade to the kitchen and the silk fabric – which graces details of the dining area – were all imported (literally, or stylistically) from Lyon. He calls it “A touch of France with design notes from Dubai”. Still, there should be no confusion that Rue Royale seeks to copy the French icon. (The menu is not the same, for starters). “I live in Lyon, and have cultivated La Mere Brazier as two Michelin-star cuisine, with 35 people crafting cuisine to delight only 45 covers – it’s a very special concept
