AIR NasJet Dec'14

Page 1

THE CHANEL MOMENT

www.chanel.com

GRAND ATRIUM DUBAI MALL +971 4339 8666

CALIBER RM 07-01

OUR SIGNATURE COLLECTION. QUATTROPORTE BY MASERATI.

ALL-NEW QUATTROPORTE | QUATTROPORTE S | QUATTROPORTE GTS

TO MASTER AN ART WITH PASSION, INSPIRATION AND IMAGINATION, THIS IS MASERATI. EVER SINCE ITS FIRST INCARNATION, MASERATI’S FLAGSHIP RANGE REMAINS UNRIVALLED. QUATTROPORTE 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 330 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 500 NM - TOP SPEED: 263 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.6 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE S 2979 CC V6 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 410 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 550 NM - TOP SPEED: 285 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 5.1 SECONDS.

QUATTROPORTE GTS 3798 CC V8 ENGINE – POWER OUTPUT: 530 HP – 8-SPEED ZF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 650 NM - TOP SPEED: 307 KM/H – 0-100 KM/H IN 4.7 SECONDS.

Q U A T T R O P O R T E

Bahrain, Euro Motors W.L.L.: 17 750750 Kuwait, Al Zayani Trading Co.: 1808010 Ext. 111 KSA Jeddah, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 02 6835148 KSA Riyadh, FAST Auto Technic Co. Ltd.: 01 4664748 Lebanon, G.A. Bazerji & Sons LLC.: 01 263111 Oman, Alfardan Motors LLC.: 024 523014 Qatar, Alfardan Sports Motors Co. S.O.C.: 044 208788 UAE Abu Dhabi, Premier Motors: 02 4935000 UAE Dubai, Al Tayer Motors LLC.: 04 3037878 www.maserati.com

Montegrappa Boutique The Boulevard - Jumeirah Emirates Towers, Dubai UAE +9714 3880620

www.montegrappa.me

“ICONS”

AYRTON SENNA LIMITED EDITION

Dubai Mall | Dubai Marina Mall | Mall of the Emirates | Wafi | Gold Souk

CONTENTS / FEATURES

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade david@hotmediapublishing.com Commercial Director Rawan Chehab rawan@hotmediapublishing.com Editor Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com Deputy Editor Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com Features Editor Lara Brunt lara@hotmediapublishing.com Senior Designer Adam Sneade Designer Andy Knappett Illustrator Vanessa Arnaud Production Manager Chalitha Fernando

Sixty

Seventy Two

Ordinary Girl

Waight For It

She’s the face of Chanel and worth millions, but Keira Knightley still strives to be normal.

As Chloé opens a new ÀDJVKLS LQ 5L\DGK, AIR sits down with the label’s creative director.

Sixty Six

Seventy Six

The King of Soul

Stars on Celluoid

50 years after Sam Cooke was sensationally shot, AIR examines the soul singer’s tragic last night.

Legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh captures VRPH RI +ROO\ZRRG¶V ¿QHVW IRU ,:& 6FKD̆KDXVHQ

- 17 -

CONTENTS / REGUL ARS Twenty Six

Fifty Eight

Eighty Four

Radar

Jewellery

Gastronomy

Iconic images by Norman Parkinson, plus perfect presents for him and her.

Jeweller to the stars Stephen Webster on bold gems and Bowie.

.RUHDQ $PHULFDQ FKHI -XG\ Joo is not your average culinary star, as AIR discovers.

Forty

Eighty

Eighty Eight

Art & Design

Motoring

Travel

/RQGRQœV ¿UVW DQWL JDOOHU\ plus fashion’s enduring love of fairy tales.

7KLV \HDUÂśV ÂżQHVW OLPLWHG HGLWLRQ DQG XOWUD H[FOXVLYH luxury vehicles.

As St. Moritz celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR charts its rise to the top.

Forty Nine

Interiors AIR talks design with Louis Vuitton’s former director of architecture.

Fifty Three

Timepieces The revival of Moritz *URVVPDQQ DQG VSHFLDO order watches.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494 Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in AIR.

- 18 -

THE BRIDAL COLLECTION Constellation Setting

T H E G A L L E R I A S O W WA H S Q U A R E 0 2 - 6 7 4 3 6 6 6 W W W. G R A F F D I A M O N D S . C O M

NASJET

December 2014

WELCOME ONBOARD

Welcome to the December issue of NasJet Air. This issue comes at an opportune time as the global private aviation industry meets in Dubai to demonstrate the latest aircraft to potential buyers’ and debate key issues relating to the Middle East. This event, Middle East Business Aviation (MEBA), is organized by the Middle East Business Aviation Association every two years and as founder and board member of the association, we are proud to support this DXVSLFLRXV JDWKHULQJ RI WKH ¿QHVW PLQGV LQ private aviation. For the event, our private chalet is strategically located opposite the aircraft displays and will be dedicated to our distinguished guests and visitors. NasJet will be also celebrating 15 years of operational excellence at MEBA and we will announce another success story following the introduction of three stunning aircraft WR WKH HYHU H[SDQGLQJ PDQDJHG ÀHHW 7KLV includes a factory new Boeing Business Jet and two Embraer Legacy aircraft. Our topgrade reputation for aircraft management once again proved the winning formula and we have ambitious plans for 2015 to further increase the number of long-range wide-body aircraft XQGHU PDQDJHPHQW DQG ÀLJKW VXSSRUW Finally, in our pursuit for innovation and to deliver even higher levels of personal service to our clients, we have decided to update the NasJet external brand look. The mission and goals remain the same but now with a sharper focus on maintaining a culture, which, we believe, fosters a service-orientated organization, delivered through our own GHGLFDWHG KLJKO\ TXDOL¿HG DQG SURXG VWD̆ , KRSH \RX ZLOO ¿QG WKH UHYLVHG ORRN DSSHDOLQJ and we welcome your comments. Once again, thank you for selecting NasJet and we welcome you onboard. Saad Alazwari &KLHI ([HFXWLYH 2̇FHU

Contact Details: clientservices@nasjet.com.sa nasjet.com.sa T. +966 (0)11 217 2070 NasJet Contributing Editor: Hardy Sohanpal E. hsohanpal@nasjet.com.sa - 21 -

NASJET NEWS

NasJet unveils a new look $V ZH FHOHEUDWH RXU ¿UVW \HDUV LQ business we have decided to unveil a new look. The new image, revealed at a private event at the start of the Middle East Business Aviation event earlier this month, sees the 1DV-HW ORJR PRGL¿HG VOLJKWO\ using a contemporary design and sophisticated colour palette. The new design is based on four NH\ HOHPHQWV ¿UVW LPSUHVVLRQV consistency, resilience and responsiveness to our client’s and partner’s needs. Following intensive research and feedback from clients we have also made a number of enhancements to further improve the services and products we currently provide.

This includes updating all the onboard amenities, including the addition of cashmere blankets and fragranced products from the world’s most celebrated fashion houses. We believe every part of your NasJet experience should be as comfortable as possible. We’ve gone to great lengths to source the best catering providers in world, regardless of location. For FOLHQWV À\LQJ IURP 5L\DGK ZH KDYH partnered with the Four Seasons +RWHO WR R̆HU D 6LJQDWXUH 0HQX specially created by international culinary experts for NasJet. Partnership and collaboration is something you will see often over the coming years as we push - 22 -

to provide all-encompassing experiences. Many of these will be tailored to you, and will work alongside our new ‘likes and dislikes’ SURÂżOH V\VWHP 7KLV ZLOO DOORZ WKH crew and your regional director to consistently personalize many RI \RXU Ă€LJKWV ZKHWKHU LWÂśV \RXU favorite magazine or music during WKH Ă€LJKW (YHU\ DLUFUDIW ZLOO KDYH a state-of-the-art direct feedback system, which many of you may have already seen during the recent trial phase. This will allow you to provide OLYH IHHGEDFN WR RXU KHDG ṘFH RQ how we can further improve or customize the service we provide on \RXU QH[W Ă€LJKW. Visit nasjet.com.sa IRU LQIRUPDWLRQ

Client Privileges 1. ,I \RX DUH WUDYHOOLQJ DQG SODQQLQJ WR VWD\ LQ 5L\DGK ZLWK RXU SDUWQHUV WKH )RXU 6HDVRQV +RWHO 5L\DGK ZH DUH SOHDVHG WR R̆HU \RX DQ H[FOXVLYH NasJet rate for the unique Kingdom Suite. This spectacular new duplex suite VSDQV WKH WK DQG WK ÀRRUV guaranteeing breathtaking views of the FLW\ DQG R̆HUV DQ LPSUHVVLYH VTP of palatial space for the exclusive EHQH¿W RI LWV RFFXSDQWV Guests will feel like royalty with all the wonderful features that the .LQJGRP 6XLWH KDV WR R̆HU VXFK DV D luxurious bedroom, a lavish bathroom, a dressing room, a make-up area, a walk-in closet, a kitchen with a private access, a private elevator inside the VXLWH D SULYDWH ṘFH D OLYLQJ URRP D dining room that can accommodate up to 10 persons, and a butler service.

MEET THE TEAM: Waleed Alqasoumi :DOHHG $OTDVRXPL W\SL¿HV WKH young generation of aviation professionals at NasJet keen to make their mark on the industry. Alqasoumi joined NasJet in 2011 as a Client Services Coordinator, GLUHFWO\ KDQGOLQJ FOLHQWVœ ÀLJKW requests and liaising with the Flight Centre. His talent for multi-tasking and getting the job done whilst under pressure landed an early promotion to the position of Client Services Supervisor. ³(YHU\ GD\ LV GL̆HUHQW 7KHUH is absolutely no routine to our work and your knowledge base is expanding on a daily basis as you discover a new airport or new international operating procedure,� he says. As well as training young graduates in his new role, he continues to communicate with

clients and, over the past year, he’s been on call 24/7 whilst the Flight Centre rapidly expands to meet the demands of an ever JURZLQJ ÀHHW ³,WœV QRW UDUH WR work 18 hours during the peak ÀLJKW SHULRGV DQG VRPHWLPHV ,œOO UDUHO\ JHW D FKDQFH WR VHH P\ family,� he says. His introduction to private aviation came by chance after returning from Canada to Saudi Arabia having studied Chemical Engineering at Dalhousie University in Nova 6FRWLD &DQDGD +H EULHÀ\ WULHG his hand at retail banking but found the job too monotonous and lacking in dynamism – which he prefers. Like any budding expert his ultimate ambition is to work in GL̆HUHQW GHSDUWPHQWV ZLWKLQ NasJet and continue building on his aviation knowledge. - 23 -

2. NasJet has partnered with luxury travel group Abercrombie & Kent, which has been at the forefront of travel for over 50 years, pioneering luxury holidays and tailor-made holidays to established and emerging destinations around the world. 1DV-HW FOLHQWV FDQ QRZ EHQH¿W from a seamless experience from SULYDWH MHW ÀLJKW WR D YDFDWLRQ RI D lifetime. For further information regarding both NasJet Privilege 2̆HUV SOHDVH FRQWDFW WKH &OLHQW Services team on +966 (0) 11 217 2070.

NASJET NEWS

OUR SERVICES $ KRVW RI VHUYLFHV DZDLW \RX ZKHQ À\LQJ ZLWK 1DV-HW

AIRCRAFT SALES Buy from the best. As a worldclass owner, operator and manager of private aircraft in the middle HDVW VLQFH ZH R̆HU UHDO WLPH market pricing analysis, aircraft ¿QDQFLQJ ZLWK SUHIHUUHG OHQGHUV aircraft inspections, sales and marketing collateral, and assertive price negotiation.

COMPLETIONS-ADVISORY %HQHÂżW IURP RXU H[SHULHQFH. We have the advantage of a close working relationship with many of the leading business jet manufacturers, including Boeing, Airbus, Gulfstream, Bombardier and Hawker Beechcraft. Over the years, the team has successfully completed over 45 new aircraft deliveries, working with owners to ensure their aircraft is completed to the highest VSHFLÂżFDWLRQ DQG ZLWKLQ EXGJHW

AIRCRAFT MANAGEMENT +DYH WKH H[SHUWV GR DOO WKH work. Owning a private jet is certainly a pleasure, but it’s also a major undertaking. NasJet can take that stress away and give you peace of mind knowing that an established and experienced international operator is able to manage your DVVHW ḢFLHQWO\ 1DV-HW KDV LQ H[FHVV

of 67 aircraft under management. Aircraft owners gain many SULYLOHJHV DQG ¿QDQFLDO EHQH¿WV by being within a NasJet-managed ÀHHW LQFOXGLQJ HFRQRP\ RI VFDOH RQ IXHO ÀHHW LQVXUDQFH WUDLQLQJ DQG maintenance.

FRACTIONAL $FFHVV D ÀHHW RI MHWV ¹ ZLWK guaranteed availability. With the NasJet fractional program you buy a share in a jet, ranging from an eighth to a half. You can have all the advantages of aircraft ownership for a fraction of the cost. Your share guarantees you a FHUWDLQ QXPEHU RI ÀLJKW KRXUV SHU year in your jet or in a comparable aircraft. Fractional ownership costs DUH SUH DJUHHG DQG ¿[HG DQQXDOO\ ¹ QR HQG RI \HDU ¿QDQFLDO VXUSULVHV just seamless international access to D ÀHHW RI DLUFUDIW <RX FDQ DOVR HQMR\ DOO WKH EHQH¿WV RI WKH IUDFWLRQDO program without the long-term commitment, with the 12-month lease program.

FLIGHT SUPPORT ([SHUWLVH DQG SXUFKDVLQJ SRZHU. Using NasJet’s unrivaled regional operational expertise and purchasing power, aircraft managed either by the principal’s crew or an

- 24 -

LQWHUQDO FRUSRUDWH ÀLJKW GHSDUWPHQW can access a menu of services SURYLGHG E\ WKH 1DV-HW ÀLJKW FHQWUH

GROUND SERVICES In 2013 NasJet, and their partner ExecuJet, launched ground services IRU SULYDWH DLUFUDIW À\LQJ LQWR WKH 5L\DGK SULYDWH DYLDWLRQ WHUPLQDO Saudi Arabia. The collaboration builds on the two partners’ reputation for providing a superior and competitive level of service.

ON-DEMAND CHARTER 7KH EHVW RSWLRQ for ultimate ÀH[LELOLW\ ZLWKRXW WKH FRPPLWPHQW Chartering with NasJet gives clients access to the largest and PRVW FORVHO\ PDQDJHG ÀHHW LQ WKH region. We are focused entirely on safety, service and value. By owning many of our aircraft, we are able to make an immediate decision on aircraft availability. NasJet’s highly H[SHULHQFHG GHGLFDWHG days a year charter department, EDVHG LQ 5L\DGK DUH DEOH WR SURYLGH instant competitive quotations. The NasJet block charter program has DOO WKH EHQH¿WV RI DG KRF FKDUWHU EXW ZLWK JXDUDQWHHG DYDLODELOLW\ ÀH[LEOH payment terms and billing based on DFWXDO ÀLJKW WLPHV Visit QDVMHW FRP VD IRU LQIRUPDWLRQ

RADAR

Fashion forward Celebrating Norman Parkinson

- 26 -

Regarded as the grandfather of British fashion photography, Norman Parkinson’s pioneering career spanned 56 years. A new exhibition at Proud Chelsea in London celebrates his innovative approach of taking models away from the soulless studios that

had dominated pre-war fashion photography and into the real world. Adding glamour by shooting in exotic locations and making use of unique props, Parkinson’s bold photographs chart the transformation of women’s fashion from the utilitarian WWII years to - 27 -

the Swinging ‘60s and through to the ‘80s. In this 1958 shot, Coming and Going, Nena von Schlebrügge is dressed in in Yves Saint Laurent’s ¿UVW FROOHFWLRQ IRU &KULVWLDQ 'LRU Norman Parkinson: Always in Fashion, Proud Chelsea, until December 7, proud.co.uk

RADAR > Incredibly rare, incredibly desirable, the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing is regularly described as one of the most beautiful classic cars of all time. Back in 1955, it was also touted as one of the most innovative, thanks to its slanted inline six-cylinder engine, which gave the car a lower centre of gravity and maintained the sleek line of the hood, direct fuel injection

and lightweight tubular frame, which gave rise to those magnificent gullwing doors. The iconic car is up for auction next month at RM Auctions’ annual sale in Arizona, USA. A staple on the global calendar for discerning collectors, the two-day auction takes place on January 15 to 16, with the Gullwing sure to attract spirited bidding. rmauctions.com

> It’s the Centre Pompidou’s turn to look back at the 35-year career of the enfant terrible Jeff Koons. Several works by the controversial artist are on display as part of the Le Rérospective exhibition, including the Total Equilibrium series (right), designed to represent what Koons called “the penultimate state of being”. Koons’

12-foot sculpture Balloon Dog became the most expensive piece of art by a living artist when it was sold for $US58 million in 2013, and the influence of the artist shows no sign of slowing down. Nor, for that matter, does his willingness to push boundaries. La Rétrospective will be on show until April 27. centrepompidou.fr - 28 -

DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER?

Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinental® we use our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In Kuala Lumpur for example, our Concierge can arrange a trip to the city’s highest vantage point, Menara Kuala Lumpur Tower, where you can view the famous Petronas Towers from a different perspective. Whatever you choose to do, we can help you discover truly authentic experiences that will stay with you long after you come home.

Do you live an InterContinental life? As a valued IHG® Rewards Club member, the luxuries continue: • Earn points faster now when you stay and dine at InterContinental Hotels and Resorts • Complimentary internet worldwide

For more information or to make a reservation, please call 800 897 1465 (KSA) or 800 4642 (UAE) or visit intercontinental.com

In over 170 locations across the globe including DU BA I • KUA L A LUMPUR • LON DON • SINGA POR E

RADAR

MOST WANTED Looking for the ultimate festive gift? Be inspired by these perfect presents

Diamonds – and emeralds – are a girl’s best friend, thanks to David Morris’ recent Biennale des Antiquaires collection. davidmorris.com

Good things come in small packages, like Bulgari’s mother-of-pearl minaudière, part of Harvey Nichols – Dubai’s The Treasury gift selection. bulgari.com

Cocktail hour awaits with Tiffany’s 18-carat white gold timepiece with diamonds and black satin-finish strap. tiffany.com

- 30 -

Limited to just 47 crystal bottles, this Guerlain fragrance is part of The Treasury exclusive gift selection at Harvey Nichols – Dubai.

Inspired by an aircraft fuselage, dunhill’s Avorities carbon fibre pens are perfect for the man on the move. dunhill.com

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Diamond Breeze collection adds a luxurious sparkle to the season. vancleefarpels.com

Add a touch of luxury to the everyday with Cottin’s 24-carat gold iPad mini. cottinparis.com

- 31 -

TI M E O N YO U R S I D E when you feel something extraordinary, a rush of excitement, awe and wonder. moments that make us cry with happiness, that make us laugh until our tummies hurt, times we cant wait to experience again and again and again…

bringing wonderful back into our lives. nurai, your private island resort.

beach retreats . water villas . beach estates

gps: 24° 36.880’, 54° 28.567’ t: +971 2 5066 222 e: reservations@nurai.com w: zayanuraiisland.com

CRITIQUE

Film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies Dir: Peter Jackson Bilbo Baggins’ and his allies are forced into a war that could obliterate all of Middle Earth. AT BEST: “Jackson claims that The Battle of the Five Armies is his IDYRXULWH LQVWDOPHQW LQ WKH WULORJ\ ´ Screenrant AT WORST: “Jackson got a bit lost in DQ RYHUO\ DPELWLRXV SURMHFW ´ Verge

Annie Dir: Will Gluck Annie is a tough but happy foster kid whose life is turned upside down when New York mayoral candidate Jamie Foxx enters her life. AT BEST: “The leading pair are in ¿QH IRUP ZLWK GHFHQW FKHPLVWU\ ´ Screenrant AT WORST: “The music in this hipper and more contemporary Annie GRHVQ¶W DOZD\V WUDGH XS ´ NY Daily

Mr. Turner Dir: Mike Leigh Timothy Spall once again totally inhabits a character – this time, the famed painter J.M.W Turner, whose radical style changed the art world. AT BEST: “Timothy Spall gives the ¿QHVW SHUIRUPDQFH RI KLV FDUHHU WR GDWH ´ The Telegraph AT WORST: “Some have read Joshua McGuire’s broad comic caricature of an art critic as an attack on critics in JHQHUDO ´ The Guardian

Exodus: Gods and Kings Dir: Ridley Scott Moses rises up against the Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses, and tries to free 600,000 slaves. AT BEST: “Scott is back to the resplendent gold of Gladiator, DV KH GUDPDWLVHV WKH IDFH R̆ EHWZHHQ 0RVHV DQG 5DPVHV ,, ´ The Guardian AT WORST: “Exodus: Gods And .LQJV KDV D VWXSLGO\ ORQJ UXQWLPH ´ CinemaBlend - 33 -

CRITIQUE

Books The revered architect of the Ottoman (PSLUH¶V PRVW PDJQL¿FHQW PRVTXHV SOD\V D OHDGLQJ UROH LQ 7XUNLVK DXWKRU (OLI 6KDIDN¶V ODWHVW ZRUN RI KLVWRULF ¿FWLRQ 6HW LQ WK FHQWXU\ ,VWDQEXO 7KH $UFKLWHFW¶V $SSUHQWLFH WHOOV WKH VWRU\ RI \HDU ROG -DKDQ D SHQQLOHVV ,QGLDQ ER\ ZKR VWRZV DZD\ RQ D VKLS ERXQG IRU 7XUNH\ FDUU\LQJ WKH JLIW RI D ZKLWH HOHSKDQW QDPHG &KRWD IRU WKH 6XOWDQ :KHQ he catches the eye of the royal DUFKLWHFW 0LPDU 6LQDQ DQG WKH 6XOWDQ¶V EHDXWLIXO GDXJKWHU -DKDQ LV SURPRWHG IURP VLPSOH PDKRXW WR DSSUHQWLFH ± DQG KLV IRUWXQHV WDNH D P\VWHULRXV WXUQ :KLOH -DKDQ DQG &KRWD DUH SXUH LQYHQWLRQV PDQ\ of the characters in the novel are EDVHG RQ KLVWRULFDO ¿JXUHV LQFOXGLQJ 6LQDQ ZKR VHUYHG WKUHH 2WWRPDQ HPSHURUV RYHU \HDUV (DFK 6XOWDQ¶V UHLJQ SURGXFHG PRVTXHV HQYLVLRQHG DQG H[HFXWHG E\ WKH DUFKLWHFW PDQ\ RI ZKLFK VWLOO H[LVW WRGD\ 7KH ³SORW ULFK FKDUDFWHU GULYHQ´ QRYHO LV D ³FDUHIXOO\ FUDIWHG ZRUN RI LPDJLQDWLRQ WKDW both reveals and conceals its VNLOO´ VD\V 5HEHFFD $EUDPV RI WKH )LQDQFLDO 7LPHV ³,W ZLOO FRQ¿UP 6KDIDN¶V UHSXWDWLRQ DV D ZULWHU RI LPSUHVVLYH UDQJH ZKR TXLHWO\ UHVLVWV categorisation and is not afraid to DVN WKH ELJ TXHVWLRQV ´ -DPHV 5XQFLH of the Independent believes this LV 6KDIDN¶V PRVW DPELWLRXV QRYHO \HW DGGLQJ ³,W LV KHU EHVW ± WROG ZLWK D JHQHURXV KXPDQLW\ WKDW ZLOO VXUHO\ UHDOLJQ DWWLWXGHV ERWK WR WKH LPDJLQDWLYH SRVVLELOLWLHV RI ¿FWLRQ DQG WR WKH FRQVWUXFWHG UHDOLW\ RI WKH ZRUOG DURXQG XV ´ ,I \RX¶UH ORRNLQJ IRU D ³FOHYHU FODVV\ SDJH WXUQHU´ ORRN QR IXUWKHU WKDQ 0LFKDHO &RQQHOO\¶V 7KH %XUQLQJ 5RRP $SSHDULQJ LQ KLV WK QRYHO ZLWK UHWLUHPHQW ORRPLQJ YHWHUDQ /$3' GHWHFWLYH +DUU\ %RVFK DQG KLV URRNLH SDUWQHU /XFLD 6RWR LQYHVWLJDWH WKH PXUGHU RI D PDQ ZKR VXGGHQO\ GLHV IURP FRPSOLFDWLRQV RI EHLQJ VKRW E\ D VWUD\ EXOOHW WHQ

\HDUV HDUOLHU $V WKHLU LQYHVWLJDWLRQ WXUQV XS HYLGHQFH WKDW UHYHDOV WKH VKRRWLQJ ZDV DQ\WKLQJ EXW UDQGRP the politically sensitive case EHFRPHV HYHQ PRUH GL̇FXOW ZKHQ LW OHDGV WR DQRWKHU XQVROYHG FDVH ZLWK HYHQ JUHDWHU VWDNHV WKH GHDWKV RI VHYHUDO FKLOGUHQ LQ D ¿UH WKDW RFFXUUHG \HDUV DJR %XW ZKHQ WKHLU ZRUN VWDUWV WR WKUHDWHQ FDUHHUV DQG OLYHV WKH GHWHFWLYHV PXVW GHFLGH ZKHWKHU LW¶V VDIHU WR OHW VRPH VHFUHWV VWD\ EXULHG 7KH $PHULFDQ DXWKRU ³LV D SDLU RI HPLQHQWO\ VDIH KDQGV DQG 7KH %XUQLQJ 5RRP LV D SOHDVXUH - 34 -

WR UHDG´ VD\V WKH *XDUGLDQ¶V $OLVRQ )ORRG -DQHW 0DVOLQ RI WKH 1HZ <RUN 7LPHV GHFODUHV LW ³WKH EHVW %RVFK ERRN LQ \HDUV´ QRW RQO\ EHFDXVH RI LWV ³VKDUS GLDORJXH DQG IDVW SDFHG GHWHFWLYH ZL]DUGU\ EXW DOVR EHFDXVH LW QHLWKHU GDZGOHV QRU OHWV +DUU\ JHW PRRG\´ 7KH %RVFK VHULHV ³KDV LWV KLJKV DQG ORZV´ VD\V 0DVOLQ EXW WKH ODWHVW LQVWDOOPHQW ³LV SHUFKHG RQ D KLOOWRS´ 2QH RI WKH SOHDVXUHV RI UHDGLQJ WKH QRYHO LV WKH ZD\ WKDW &RQQHOO\ ³VQHDNV PLQRU GHWDLOV SDVW WKH UHDGHU RQO\ WR LPSOHPHQW WKHP ODWHU LQ WKH JDPH ´

CRITIQUE

The winter season is the ideal time to re-acquaint yourself with favourites and classics from years gone by. The Royal Ballet’s festive version of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland at the Royal Opera House is the perfect way to tumble down the rabbit hole. Sarah Crompton of the Telegraph says that since the performance has been split into three acts (from two previously), “it fairly zings along but now there is time to appreciate Alice’s lovely encounters with the dissolving Cheshire Cat, the gyrating Caterpillar, the enraged Duchess and – above all – the deranged Red Queen”. Of course, a story as vivid as Alice’s must have dramatic set design, and this aspect of the performance also delighted Crompton, who says: “It is impossible not to be entranced by the ZD\ $OLFH WXPEOHV KHDG¿UVW GRZQ D UHDO KROH RQ WKH stage and then a puppet version of the same character is VKRZQ RQ ¿OP WXPEOLQJ WKURXJK D GL]]\LQJ VSLUDO WR WKH ground.” Interestingly, this winter’s performance will also be screened live to cinemas around the country on December 16 and 28. Until December 28. New York is treated to the stage version of the smashhit The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre. Playing from now until April 26, 2015, the play tells the story of Christopher, a young autistic boy who sets out to investigate the murder of his neighbour’s dog, Wellington. Those familiar with WKH ERRN PLJKW EH FRQFHUQHG DERXW WKH GL̇FXOWLHV LQ adapting the text for the stage, but Brendan Lemon of WKH )LQDQFLDO 7LPHV VD\V DQ\ ZRUULHV DUH XQMXVWL¿HG “The narration provided by his teacher, Siobhan, helps ease us through some of the story’s brambles.” The performance of Christopher by Juilliard School graduate, Alex Sharp, is “the kind of smashing Broadway debut young actors classically dream about”, says

Ben Brantley of the New York Times, while audiences should “be prepared to have all your emotional and sensory buttons pushed, including a few you may have not known existed”. Brantley isn’t so convinced by the transition from book to play, noting that when the second act opens to Siobhan convincing Christopher to put on a play, “this eventually leads to a slightly cloying and hoary theatrical self-consciousness.” There’s no denying, however, that The Curious Incident... is one of the most successful crossover hits in recent history. Another book-to-stage adaptation is newly thrilling audiences at London’s National Theatre. Behind The Beautiful Forevers is “a gripping tale of life and loss in the Mumbai slums just dying to burst free”, according to 9LFWRULD 6DGOHU RI WKH +ẊQJWRQ 3RVW 7KH SURGXFWLRQ explores the dark side of India’s rapid economic growth, and Sadler says: “The way director Rufus Norris has recreated the Mumbai slums on the Olivier stage is almost breath-taking. The energy and the tumbling chaos of this world is quite something to behold.” For Susannah Clapp of the Guardian, the performance should be commended for its forward-thinking. She says: “It is a leap for the National. The setting is out of Great Britain; the cast is huge (more than 30 actors). The stories are important. The inhabitants of Annawadi have scarcely been heard before now. They live in the shadow of the airport, overlooked by luxury hotels.” Clapp also explores the problems of putting a book on stage, saying: “It would have been impossible to put all Boo’s intricacies on stage. Sensibly, though surprisingly for a political playwright, Hare has dispensed with some of the party political discussion, and there is a smudge of sentimentality in the ending which makes the drama less not more moving.” Until April 13, 2015.

- 36 -

,PDJH %ULQNKR̆ 0RHJHQEXUJ

Theatre

You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic was recognized as the No. 1 hospital in the United States by U.S. News & World Report. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more. ROCHESTER , MINNESOTA , USA

|

PHOENIX /SCOTTSDALE , ARIZONA , USA

|

JACKSONVILLE , FLORIDA , USA

CRITIQUE

Staged to coincide with this year’s FHQWHQDU\ RI ::, &RQÀLFW 7LPH 3KRWRJUDSK\ DW WKH 7DWH 0RGHUQ LQ London is “a subtle and haunting evocation of the past that does not UHVRUW WR PDZNLVKQHVV ´ VD\V WKH 7HOHJUDSK¶V $ODVWDLU 6RRNH 7KH exhibition focuses on the passing RI WLPH WUDFLQJ D GLYHUVH DQG poignant journey through over 150 \HDUV RI FRQÀLFW DURXQG WKH ZRUOG VLQFH WKH LQYHQWLRQ RI SKRWRJUDSK\ ,QWHUHVWLQJO\ WKH ZRUNV DUH RUGHUHG according to how long after the event WKH\ ZHUH FUHDWHG IURP PRPHQWV GD\V DQG ZHHNV WR GHFDGHV ODWHU 3KRWRJUDSKV WDNHQ VHYHQ PRQWKV DIWHU WKH ¿UH ERPELQJ RI 'UHVGHQ DUH VKRZQ DORQJVLGH LPDJHV PDGH

LQ 9LHWQDP \HDUV DIWHU WKH IDOO RI 6DLJRQ 7KHUHIRUH WKLV LV QRW DQ H[KLELWLRQ DERXW SKRWRMRXUQDOLVP EXW UDWKHU UHPHPEUDQFH ± ³DERXW how artists, and by extension VRFLHWLHV FRPH WR WHUPV ZLWK WKH DWURFLWLHV DQG WUDXPDV RI WKH SDVW ´ VD\V 6RRNH ³$V D UHVXOW WKH PRRG LV PRVWO\ VRPEUH DQG elegiac – preferring the coolness of FRQWHPSODWLRQ WR WKH KHDW RI EDWWOH 7KHUH LV D JKRVWO\ TXDOLW\ WR PDQ\ of the photographs, even those that ZHUH WDNHQ VHFRQGV DIWHU DQ DWWDFN ´

WUXQFDWHG KXPDQ legs and bodies with actual KXPDQ KDLU 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ says Lance (VSOXQG RI WKH Wall Street Journal, the ZRUN LV ³WKH KLJK point of Gober’s oeuvre and of 0R0$¶V VXUYH\ ´ 7KH DUWLVW LV DW “his rawest and PRVW FRQYLQFLQJ ± PRVW VXUUHDO – when he NHHSV WKLQJV VLPSOH ´ EXW instead he can ³RYHUZRUN KLV WKHPHV´ 'HVSLWH the artist’s “hyperbolic PLVVWHSV WKLV VKRZ KDV ÀDVKHV RI UHGHPSWLRQ´ 7KH (YHQLQJ 6WDQGDUG¶V %HQ /XNH including the intricate underDSSODXGV WKH ³LQQRYDWLYH DSSURDFK´ ÀRRU SLHFH 8QWLWOHG ZKLFK WR GLVSOD\LQJ WKH LPDJHV DQG VD\V (VSOXQG VD\V LV ³VXUSULVLQJO\ WKH VKRZ ³GUDJV \RXU LPDJLQDWLRQ LQWR XQFRPIRUWDEOH WHUULWRULHV´ 7KH PDJLFDO´ DQG ³WKH RQH LQVWDQFH LQ WKLV H[KLELWLRQ ZKHUH 0R0$ IHHOV RQO\ UHDO ÀDZ LQ WKLV ³RWKHUZLVH WUXO\ WUDQVIRUPHG´ 7KH *XDUGLDQ¶V VRQRURXV DQG GHHSO\ D̆HFWLQJ -DVRQ )DUDJR PHDQZKLOH VD\V LW LV H[KLELWLRQ´ LV WKH EXVWOLQJ DQQH[H a “sober, unhurried and genuinely to the exhibition, which fuses D̆HFWLQJ´ H[KLELWLRQ 2YHU WKUHH SKRWRJUDSK\ DQG PHPRUDELOLD WKDW decades Gober has produced “rather interferes with its clear and sculptures and drawings that are FRPSHOOLQJ ORJLF ´ VD\V /XNH Until “spare, sad, eccentric and deeply March 2015. PRYLQJ ± EXW PRYLQJ LQ D ZD\ ,Q 1HZ <RUN 0R0$ SUHVHQWV WKDW FDQ EH PDGGHQLQJO\ KDUG a 40-year retrospective of WR H[SODLQ´ KH DGGV 7KH VKRZ¶V FRQWURYHUVLDO FRQWHPSRUDU\ DUWLVW FDWDORJXH GRHVQ¶W VKLQH PXFK OLJKW 5REHUW *REHU 7KH +HDUW ,V 1RW D 0HWDSKRU IHDWXUHV DURXQG ZRUNV on possible narratives, preferring ³LQWLPDF\ WR DQDO\VLV´ DOWKRXJK LW DFURVV VHYHUDO PHGLXPV LQFOXGLQJ FRQWDLQV ³RQH RI WKH PRVW EHDXWLIXO LQGLYLGXDO VFXOSWXUHV LPPHUVLYH HVVD\V RQ FRQWHPSRUDU\ DUW , KDYH VFXOSWXUDO HQYLURQPHQWV DQG D UHDG LQ \HDUV´ VD\V )DUDJR D GLVWLQFWLYH VHOHFWLRQ RI GUDZLQJV SDJH WRXU GH IRUFH E\ 1HZ <RUNHU 7KH RSHQLQJ JDOOHU\ IHDWXUHV KLV FULWLF +LOWRQ $OV ³WKDW VHWV *REHU¶V QHR 'DGDLVW FODVVLF 8QWLWOHG /HJ ZRUN DPLG SHUVRQDO H[SORUDWLRQV RI WKH ¿UVW RI ZKDW ZRXOG EHFRPH *REHU¶V VLJQDWXUH KDQGPDGH VH[XDO UDFLDO DQG UHOLJLRXV LGHQWLW\´ Until January 18, 2015. life-size beeswax sculptures of - 38 -

Shell Shocked US Marine, Vietnam, Hue 1968, printed 2013. © Don McCullin. Robert Gober Untitled. 1980-81. Ron Amstutz, courtesy the artist and Matthew Marks Gallery. © 2014 Robert Gober.

Art

OPTIMIZED UNRIVALED Aviation experts claim you can’t have it all. Don’t believe it. The optimized design of the all-new Gulfstream G500™ and G600™ shifts the aeronautical paradigm. Fly farther faster without sacrificing cabin comfort, fuel efficiency or field performance. With the G500 and G600, the future of business aviation is boundless.

ALLAN STANTON | +971 50 653 5258 | allan.stanton@gulfstream.com | GULFSTREAM.COM *Maximum ranges shown are based on NBAA IFR theoretical range with eight passengers and typical crew. Actual range will be affected by ATC routing, operating speed, weather, outfitting options and other factors. All performance is based on preliminary data and subject to change.

ART & DESIGN

F

URP WKH RXWVLGH LW¶V DOO ZKLWHZDVKHG ZDOOV DQG 9LFWRULDQ DUFKLWHFWXUH 6WHS WKURXJK LWV GRRUV DQG LW¶V D ULRW RI QRQ FRQIRUPLW\ DQG FUHDWLYLW\ 7RXWHG DV /RQGRQ¶V ¿UVW µDQWL JDOOHU\¶ +HLVW LV D ¿QH DUW SKRWRJUDSK\ FROOHFWLYH ORFDWHG LQ D UHVLGHQWLDO SURSHUW\ LQ /RQGRQ¶V 1RWWLQJ +LOO DOEHLW D JLQRUPRXV RQH $QG LW LV WKLV NLWVFK VHWWLQJ WKDW HPERGLHV LWV IRXQGHU¶V YLVLRQ HQWLUHO\ ³:K\ GR ZH FDOO LW DQ DQWL JDOOHU\"´ DVNV +HLVW FR IRXQGHU 0DVKDHO $O 5XVKDLG ³%HFDXVH LW HOLPLQDWHV WKH GLYLGH WKDW \RX¶G XVXDOO\ KDYH LQ D ZKLWH FXEH H[SHULHQFH :KDW PDNHV XV GL̆HUHQW DQG ZK\ , FDPH WR WKLV LGHD LQLWLDOO\ LV , VWRSSHG JRLQJ WR JDOOHULHV , ZDV WLUHG RI WKH ZKLWH FXEH H[SHULHQFH DQG , IHOW WKDW LW ZDV YHU\ LPSHUVRQDO , DOVR IRXQG WKDW QR RQH¶V KRPH UHDOO\ ORRNV OLNH D JDOOHU\ DQG D JDOOHU\ LV QRW D UHSUHVHQWDWLRQ RI OLYLQJ ZLWK DUW ,W¶V VRPHWKLQJ PRUH SHUVRQDO <RX¶UH EX\LQJ DUW WR OLYH ZLWK LW DQG , FRXOGQ¶W JHW D VHQVH

RI ZKDW LW ZRXOG IHHO OLNH WR OLYH ZLWK WKLV DUWZRUN VR , WKRXJKW µZK\ QRW KROG H[KLELWLRQV LQ D UHVLGHQWLDO SURSHUW\ WKDW LV FRQVWDQWO\ FKDQJLQJ¶"´ 2ULJLQDOO\ IURP 6DXGL $UDELD $O 5XVKDLG ¿UVW ODXQFKHG +HLVW RQOLQH ZLWK WZR EXVLQHVV SDUWQHUV DIWHU ³WKHUH ZDVQ¶W D ZHEVLWH WKDW VHOOV DUW SKRWRJUDSK\ WKDW , VSHFL¿FDOO\ ZRXOG JR WR´ 7KHQ LQ -XQH WKLV \HDU LWV UHVLGHQWLDO FRXQWHUSDUW VZXQJ RSHQ LWV GRRUV VODS LQ WKH PLGGOH RI 1RWWLQJ +LOO $,5 FDXJKW XS ZLWK $O 5XVKDLG GXULQJ WKH VHW XS RI 7KH 5RDG WR (O\VLXP +HLVW¶V ¿UVW JURXS H[KLELWLRQ DQG LWV VHFRQG H[KLELWLRQ ZLWK JDOOHU\ GLUHFWRU 7\URQH :RRG DW WKH KHOP ,Q EHWZHHQ WKH VRXQG RI EHDWLQJ KDPPHUV ³:H¶UH LQ WKH SURFHVV RI FRQVWUXFWLQJ D ZDOO LQ WKH JDOOHU\ EHFDXVH RQH RI WKH SLHFHV LQ WKLV H[KLELWLRQ LV D WUXH WR VFDOH 7KH ZDOO FRXOGQ¶W FDUU\ LW VR ZH¶UH EXLOGLQJ D ZDOO ´ WKH ³¿QH DUW SKRWRJUDSK\ ORYHU´ VD\V ³, IHHO SHRSOH DUH WLUHG RI ÀDW VXUIDFHV DQG VWHULOH HQYLURQPHQWV :H¶UH DW DQ DJH ZKHUH SHRSOH ORRN IRU D PRUH LPPHUVLYH H[SHULHQFH ZKLFK LV

ZK\ ZH LQFRUSRUDWH SHUIRUPDQFH LQVSLUHG E\ HDFK H[KLELWLRQ 0RVW LPSRUWDQWO\ WKH JDOOHU\ LV FRQVWDQWO\ FKDQJLQJ LQ D YLVXDO VHQVH ,W¶V DQ H[SHULHQFH LQ D KRPH VR SHRSOH GRQ¶W¶ IHHO WKDW VHQVH RI IRUPDOLW\ DQG WKHUH¶V QR GLYLGH EHWZHHQ WKH DUWLVWV DQG WKH FROOHFWRUV VR HYHU\RQH JHWV WR LQWHUDFW ZLWK WKH DUWLVWV ,W¶V PDNLQJ SHRSOH QRW WKH VSHFWDWRUV EXW DOVR VXEMHFWV LQ WKH YHU\ DUWZRUNV WKH\ FRXOG SRWHQWLDOO\ EH EX\LQJ ´ $ VWURQJ GHVLUH WR FUHDWH D SURGXFW DW RGGV ZLWK D JDOOHU\ VHHPV WR PRWLYDWH $O 5XVKDLG LQ KHU TXHVW IRU SRVLWLRQLQJ SKRWRJUDSK\ DV DQ HTXDO PHGLXP WR VD\ SDLQWLQJ $QG WKH 6DXGL DUWV SDWURQ LV QRW DORQH 5HFHQW ¿JXUHV IURP $UW7DFWLF UHYHDO WKDW WKH OHYHO RI FRQ¿GHQFH LQ PRGHUQ DQG FRQWHPSRUDU\ SKRWRJUDSK\ LV JURZLQJ ZLWK D SHU FHQW LQFUHDVH RYHU WKH ODVW VL[ PRQWKV ± WKH KLJKHVW OHYHO QRWHG VLQFH 0DUFK 7KH VSLNH KDV EHHQ GULYHQ E\ D QHZ JHQHUDWLRQ RI FROOHFWRUV EHWZHHQ DQG \HDUV ROG DQG SRSXODU SKRWRJUDSKLF H[KLELWLRQV VXFK DV WKRVH E\ +HOPXW 1HZWRQ ZKLFK

Co-founding WKH ¿UVW µDQWL gDOOHU\¶ LQ /RQGRQ DQG DSSRLQWLQg WKH VRQ RI D 5ROOLQg 6WRQH DV LWV GLUHFWRU ZDV ERXQG WR VSDUN LQWHUHVW $V +HLVW FHOHEUDWHV LWV ¿UVW gURXS H[KLELWLRQ, 0DVKDHO $O 5XVKDLG WDNHV $,5 RQ D WRXU RI KHU ODWHVW SURMHFW DQG H[SODLQV ZK\ SKRWRgUDSK\, ¿QDOO\, LV HVWDEOLVKLQg LWVHOI DV D ULYDO WR RWKHU PHGLXPV

- 40 -

- 41 -

Image: By Madame Peripetie

ART & DESIGN LQ /RQGRQ $O 5XVKDLG VWXGLHG LQ WKH 86 ³ZKHUH , GLG ,QWHUQDWLRQDO 5HODWLRQV DQG DQ H[HFXWLYH GHJUHH LQ ,QQRYDWLRQ DQG &OHDQ 7HFK ± YHU\ XQUHODWHG´ ZRUNHG LQ RLO DQG JDV ZLWKLQ KHU IDPLO\ UXQ ¿UP DQG GDEEOHG LQ ¿OP ³, ZRUNHG RQ D ¿OP UHFHQWO\ 7KH 6TXDUH WKDW ZRQ WKUHH (PP\V DQG ZDV 2VFDU QRPLQDWHG IRU EHVW GRFXPHQWDU\´ $QG ZKLOH KHU 6RXWK .HQVLQJWRQ SDG LV PLOHV IURP KHU KRPH FRXQWU\ RI 6DXGL $UDELD WKH 0LGGOH (DVW LV RI JUHDW VLJQL¿FDQFH WR WKH EXVLQHVVZRPDQ ³,¶YH EHHQ UHDOO\ OXFN\ WR KDYH D OLEHUDO XSEULQJLQJ 0\ SDUHQWV KDYH DOZD\V EHHQ YHU\ VXSSRUWLYH RI XV KDYLQJ P\ RZQ IRRWLQJ DQG WKH LPSRUWDQFH RI HGXFDWLRQ ,¶YH EHHQ GRLQJ LQWHUQVKLSV DQG ZRUNLQJ EHFDXVH RI WKH FXOWXUH

Heist co-founder Mashael Al Rushaid

‘Why do we call it an anti-gallery? Because it eliminates that divide that you’d usually have in a white cube experience’ WKH\¶YH EURXJKW PH XS ZLWK VLQFH , ZDV DERXW ± ZKLFK LV QRW YHU\ WUDGLWLRQDO IURP RXU SDUW RI WKH ZRUOG EXW LW¶V KRZ P\ SDUHQWV JUHZ XS DQG , JXHVV WKH\ EURXJKW PH XS WKH VDPH DQG OXFN\ IRU PH IRU WKDW ´ :H¶YH HVWDEOLVKHG WKDW +HLVW LV GHFLGHGO\ QRW D JDOOHU\ 'RHV $O 5XVKDLG WKLQN VXFK DQ LGHD FDQ ZRUN LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW" ³:H¶UH ZDV JUHDW EHFDXVH , WDSSHG LQWR KLV DUH EHDWLQJ YLVLWRU UHFRUGV VHW E\ LQ WDONV DFWXDOO\ ZLWK D QRQ SUR¿W QHWZRUN RI FROOHFWRUV DQG LW MXVW H[KLELWLRQV RI SDLQWLQJV $QG ZKLOH FROOHFWLQJ SKRWRJUDSK\ LV VRPHWKLQJ PDGH VHQVH ´ $ERXW WKH JURXS VKRZ JRYHUQPHQWDO RUJDQLVDWLRQ LQ 6DXGL WKDW KDV LQYLWHG XV WR FXUDWH DQG KRVW VKH DGGV ³:LWK WKLV H[KLELWLRQ ZH WKDW KLVWRULFDOO\ FRQWLQXHV WR DQ H[KLELWLRQ IRU SKRWRJUDSK\ LQ WKH DLP WR XVH VWULNLQJ SKRWRJUDSK\ EH PDLQO\ EDVHG LQ $PHULFD DQG FRPLQJ VL[ PRQWKV )RU VXUH 'XEDL DQG LPPHUVLYH LQVWDOODWLRQV WR WDNH (XURSH WKH UHVW RI WKH ZRUOG LV YLVLWRUV RQ D GUHDPOLNH MRXUQH\ DQG DQG 1HZ <RUN DUH GH¿QLWHO\ FLWLHV VORZO\ FDWFKLQJ RQ WKDW ZH ZRXOG ORYH WR H[SORUH 6ORZO\ WUDQVSRUW WKHP WR D XWRSLDQ ZRUOG 5HWXUQLQJ WR URFNHU 5RQQLH EXW VXUHO\ ± ZH MXVW VWDUWHG LQ -XQH ´ :RRG¶V VRQ IRU D PRPHQW DQG ZKLOH UHMHFWLQJ WKH YLROHQFH FRQÀLFW )RU QRZ WKRXJK $O 5XVKDLG KH PLJKW EH WRXULQJ ZLWK 7KH 5ROOLQJ DQG LQMXVWLFHV RI RXU RZQ :H DUH VHWWOHV RQ ³EULQJLQJ +HLVW WR WKH GHGLFDWHG WR H[KLELWLQJ WKH ZRUNV 6WRQHV DW WKH WLPH RI RXU LQWHUYLHZ IRUHIURQW RI ZKDW , KRSH LW FRXOG EH $O 5XVKDLG LV FRQ¿GHQW DERXW +HLVW¶V RI DPELWLRXV SKRWRJUDSKHUV ZKR FRQWLQXDOO\ SXVK WKH ERXQGDULHV DQG ± DQG , KRSH LW FRXOG EH WKH IDFH RI IXWXUH XQGHU :RRG¶V GLUHFWLRQ ³+H SKRWRJUDSK\ LQ WKH 8.´ The Road KDV D KXJH QHWZRUN DW 6FUHDP ± KLP DOO WKH SLHFHV RQ GLVSOD\ DUH WUXH WR to Elysium runs until January 12 at WKLV FDXVH ´ DQG KLV EURWKHU KDG WKH JDOOHU\ IRU Heist, heist-online.com %HIRUH VHWWOLQJ RQ DQ DQWL JDOOHU\ \HDUV ± VR , WKLQN XV FRPELQHG - 42 -

- 43 -

Image: By Madame Peripetie

ART & DESIGN

- 44 -

Once upon a time

As a new exhibition explores the link between classic tales and catwalk shows, AIR looks at fashion’s everlasting love affair with fairy tales

F

URP KDXWH FRXWXUH LQVSLUHG E\ &LQGHUHOOD WR FDWZDON VKRZV VHW LQ ZLQWHU\ ZRQGHUODQGV WKH DHVWKHWLF RI IDLU\ WDOHV KDV DOZD\V EHHQ D GUDZ IRU IDVKLRQ GHVLJQHUV :KLOH .DUO /DJHUIHOG DGGHG D VSODVK RI UHDOLW\ WR KLV DXWXPQ ZLQWHU FDWZDON VKRZ IRU &KDQHO VHQGLQJ PRGHOV GRZQ WKH DLVOHV RI D VXSHUPDUNHW PDQ\ RI KLV FRQWHPSRUDULHV VKRZHG

<RX ZDQW WKH FORWKHV WR LQVSLUH DV ZHOO DV HPSRZHU ´ $JDLQVW WKH EDFNGURS RI DQ HQFKDQWHG IRUHVW 'ROFH *DEEDQD¶V DXWXPQ ZLQWHU UHIHUHQFHG VWRU\ERRN KHURLQHV LQFOXGLQJ /LWWOH 5HG 5LGLQJ +RRG DQG &LQGHUHOOD ³:H ZHUH LQVSLUHG E\ IDLU\ WDOHV LPDJLQLQJ RXU ZRPDQ DV DQ HQFKDQWHG FUHDWXUH OLYLQJ LQ D VHFUHW JDUGHQ ´ VDLG 'RPHQLFR 'ROFH EDFNVWDJH 0RGHOV VWHSSHG RXW LQ KRRGHG VZLQJ FRDWV DSSOLTXHG

DQJODLVH ZLWK ÀRXQFHG VOHHYHV RU ZDUOLNH VDYDJHV LQ WKLFN JRDW IXU KRRGV DQG VFXOSWHG VKLQ\ FUDFNOH OHDWKHU MDFNHWV RU OHDQ WURXVHUV ³7KHUH¶V NLQG RI DQ LQQRFHQFH EXW VWULSSHG EDFN DQG OLEHUDWHG ´ %XUWRQ WROG ::' EDFNVWDJH 7KH GDUNHU KHDUW RI IDLU\ WDOHV LV DOVR ERXQG WR DSSHDO WR GHVLJQHUV )DU IURP EHLQJ WKH ZKLPVLFDO DQLPDWHG 'LVQH\ VWRULHV ZH DUH DOO IDPLOLDU ZLWK WKH RULJLQV RI ZHOO NQRZQ IDLU\ WDOHV DUH RIWHQ EDVHG

‘Fairy tales reflect the transformative promise of fashion itself’ WKDW IDVKLRQ ZLOO DOZD\V ORYH IDQWDV\ 6R ZKDW LV DERXW FHQWXULHV ROG VWRULHV WKDW FDSWXUH WKH LPDJLQDWLRQ RI GHVLJQHUV" )DLU\ WDOHV RIWHQ WHOO RI WUDQVIRUPDWLRQ IURP SHDVDQW WR SULQFHVV RU IURJ WR SULQFH UHÀHFWLQJ WKH WUDQVIRUPDWLYH SURPLVH RI IDVKLRQ LWVHOI ³0U 'LRU VDLG KH ZDQWHG WR µPDNH ZRPHQ GUHDP¶ ´ UHPDUNHG %LOO *D\WWHQ KHDG GHVLJQHU DW &KULVWLDQ 'LRU LQ DQ LQWHUYLHZ ZLWK WKH )LQDQFLDO 7LPHV ³7KDW IDQWDV\ HOHPHQW LV LPSRUWDQW

ZLWK IR[HV VTXLUUHOV DQG RZOV DQG UXFKHG FKL̆RQ GUHVVHV ZLWK SHDVDQW QHFNOLQHV SX̆HG VOHHYHV DQG FRUVHWWHG ZDLVWV $W $OH[DQGHU 0F4XHHQ PHDQZKLOH FUHDWLYH GLUHFWRU 6DUDK %XUWRQ FLWHG %HDXW\ DQG WKH %HDVW ³D ZLOG EHDXWLIXO IDLU\ WDOH´ DV KHU LQVSLUDWLRQ :LWK VPRNH ULVLQJ IURP PRVV\ PRXQGV RI HDUWK PRGHOV ZHUH PRVWO\ GUHVVHG LQ EODFN DQG ZKLWH HQVHPEOHV UHVHPEOLQJ 9LFWRULDQ PDLGHQV LQ VWDUFKHG ZKLWH EURGHULH - 45 -

RQ PRUH VLQLVWHU WKHPHV -HDQ 3DXO *DXOWLHU HPEUDFHG WKH GDUN VLGH GXULQJ KLV DXWXPQ ZLQWHU VKRZ IHDWXULQJ JRWKLF YLOODLQHVVHV LQ VPRXOGHULQJ EODFN VHTXLQQHG KRRGV DQG GHJUDGH RUJDQ]D ,QVSLUHG E\ $QJHOLQD -ROLH LQ WKH ¿OP 0DOH¿FHQW ZKLFK WHOOV WKH 6OHHSLQJ %HDXW\ VWRU\ IURP WKH SHUVSHFWLYH RI WKH HYLO TXHHQ *DXOWLHU VHQW D PRGHO GRZQ WKH UXQZD\ KROGLQJ D PLUURU LQ ZKLFK VKH SRXWHG DQG FDFNOHG :H ODVW ZLWQHVVHG WKH VWRU\WHOOLQJ

ART & DESIGN

‘The nod towards escapism looks set to continue with next year’s Cinderella live-action extravaganza’ LQ WHUPV RI WKHLU SURGXFWLRQ YDOXHV >ZKLFK DUH@ HYHU PRUH HODERUDWH EXW >DOVR@ KRZ WKH\ UHSUHVHQW VWRU\WHOOLQJ ,W¶V QRW MXVW D JLUO ZDONLQJ XS DQG GRZQ D FDWZDON WKHVH DUH FKDUDFWHUV DQG WKHUH DUH WKLQJV WR HQJDJH EH\RQG MXVW WKH FORWKLQJ ,W¶V D VKRZ ´ VD\V 0DUVKDOO ,QVSLUHG E\ 6WDQOH\ .XEULFN¶V 7KH 6KLQLQJ $OH[DQGHU 0F4XHHQ¶V DXWXPQ ZLQWHU VKRZ UHVHPEOHG D IUR]HQ WXQGUD ZLWK D EOL]]DUG RI VQRZ DQG LFH FRQWDLQHG ZLWKLQ D SOH[LJODVV FXEH ,FHODQGLF VSRUWVZHDU LQFOXGHG SDGGHG SDUNDV SRQFKRV DQG FKXQN\ NQLWV PL[HG ZLWK PRUH QRVWDOJLF FXWDZD\ IURFN FRDWV DQG ORQJ EDOORRQLQJ VNLUWV 7KH GHOLFDWH FRORXU SDOHWWH RI GXVN\ SLQNV JUH\V DQG JUHHQV DGGHG WR WKH URPDQWLF PRRG ³,¶YH SODFHG LW QH[W WR D TXRWH IURP 7KH /LRQ 7KH :LWFK DQG 7KH :DUGUREH µ:K\ LW LV VKH ZKR KDV JRW DOO 1DUQLD XQGHU KHU WKXPE ,W¶V VKH ZKR PDNHV LW DOZD\V ZLQWHU $OZD\V ZLQWHU DQG QHYHU &KULVWPDV WKLQN RI WKDW ¶ ,W¶V H[SORULQJ KRZ - 46 -

\RX FDQ SURMHFW VWRULHV RQ WR WKH GHVLJQHU¶V FDWZDON VKRZV ´ 0DUVKDOO H[SODLQV 8NUDLQLDQ UXQDZD\ EULGHV PHDQZKLOH LQVSLUHG -RKQ *DOOLDQR¶V DXWXPQ ZLQWHU FROOHFWLRQ 7KH PRGHOV ZRUH IRONORULF IHOW DQG WZHHG GUHVVHV EODQNHW VNLUWV DQG VFXOSWHG MDFNHWV ZLWK KXJHO\ H[DJJHUDWHG VWL̆ KLSV DQG EROG HPEURLGHU\ 7KH PRRG\ VRXQGWUDFN IW ODVHU EHDP DQG IDNH VQRZIDOO WXUQHG D GDUN KDOO LQWR D ZLQWHU ZRQGHUODQG ZLWK D WXQQHO RI FRORXUHG OLJKW IRU *DOOLDQR¶V LFH SULQFHVVHV ³1H[W WR WKH IRRWDJH LV D TXRWH IURP 7KH 6QRZ 4XHHQ µ$ IHZ VQRZÀDNHV DUH IDOOLQJ DQG RQH RI WKHVH WKH ELJJHVW JUHZ ELJJHU DQG ELJJHU XQWLO LW EHFDPH WKH ¿JXUH RI D ZRPDQ GUHVVHG RQ WKH ¿QHVW ZKLWH JDX]H ZKLFK DSSHDUHG WR EH PDGH RI D PLOOLRQ ZKLWH VWDUU\ ÀDNHV ¶ >7KH LGHD@ LV WR JLYH DQ DGGHG HOHPHQW DOPRVW XVLQJ WKH TXRWHV DV FDSWLRQV ´ Fashioning Winter is on show until January 11, somersethouse.org.uk

Text: Lara Brunt

WUHQG EDFN LQ ZLWK ZKLPVLFDO VSULQJ VXPPHU FROOHFWLRQV IURP WKH OLNHV RI 9DOHQWLQR DQG 0DUF -DFREV DQG GDUNHU LQWHUSUHWDWLRQV IURP *DUHWK 3XJK DQG 0LX 0LX ± QR GRXEW LQVSLUHG E\ D VHULHV RI OLYH DFWLRQ ¿OPV VXFK DV 6QRZ :KLWH DQG WKH +XQWVPDQ VWDUULQJ .ULVWHQ 6WHZDUW DQG WHOHYLVLRQ VKRZV OLNH 2QFH 8SRQ D 7LPH D WZLVW RQ 6QRZ White. 7KH QRG WRZDUGV HVFDSLVP ORRNV VHW WR FRQWLQXH ZLWK QH[W \HDU¶V &LQGHUHOOD D OLYH DFWLRQ H[WUDYDJDQ]D GLUHFWHG E\ .HQQHWK %UDQDJK DQG VWDUULQJ /LO\ -DPHV /DG\ 5RVH RI 'RZQWRQ $EEH\ IDPH DV WKH XOWLPDWH OLWWOH JLUO¶V IDQWDV\ ¿JXUH DQG &DWH %ODQFKHWW DV &LQGHUHOOD¶V HYLO VWHSPRWKHU ³7KH EDG JX\ LV DOZD\V WKH PRVW IXQ WR GUHVV ´ &LQGHUHOOD FRVWXPH GHVLJQHU 6DQG\ 3RZHOO WROG 86 9RJXH ³$QG WKH JRRG NLQG SHUVRQ LV DOZD\V WKH PRVW FKDOOHQJLQJ ´ 5DWKHU WKDQ ORRNLQJ DW WKH LQVSLUDWLRQ EHKLQG ZLQWHU\ FDWZDON VKRZV D QHZ GLVSOD\ DW /RQGRQ¶V 6RPHUVHW +RXVH OLQNV WKH IDQWDVWLFDO YLVXDO WKHDWUH ZLWK QDUUDWLYHV IURP FODVVLF WDOHV &XUDWHG E\ 6KRQDJK 0DUVKDOO LW LV RQH RI QLQH GLVSOD\V WKDW PDNH XS )DVKLRQLQJ :LQWHU DQ H[KLELWLRQ WKDW H[DPLQHV WUHQGV LQ FROG FOLPDWHV IURP WKH SDVW FHQWXU\ SUHVHQWHG DORQJVLGH WKH VSHFWDFXODU QHRFODVVLFDO EXLOGLQJ¶V DQQXDO LFH VNDWLQJ ULQN ³,W ORRNV DW WKH OLQN EHWZHHQ QDUUDWLYHV ZLWKLQ >DXWXPQ ZLQWHU@ FDWZDON VKRZV DQG WKH HYRFDWLYH ZRUGV RI D IDLU\ VWRU\ RU FODVVLF WDOH DQG KRZ GHVLJQHUV EXLOG WKLV PLVH HQ VFqQH ZKLFK LV OLNH WKH WDEOHDX EXLOW ZLWKLQ D ZLQWHU IDLU\ VWRU\ RU FODVVLF WDOH ´ H[SODLQV 0DUVKDOO &DWZDON IRRWDJH IURP WKUHH DXWXPQ ZLQWHU VKRZV ± $OH[DQGHU 0F4XHHQ -RKQ *DOOLDQR DQG 0DUF -DFREV ± LV SRVLWLRQHG DORQJVLGH TXRWHV IURP 7KH /LRQ 7KH :LWFK DQG 7KH :DUGUREH E\ & 6 /HZLV 7KH 6QRZ 4XHHQ E\ +DQV &KULVWLDQ $QGHUVHQ DQG ) 6FRWW )LW]JHUDOG¶V 7KH ,FH 3DODFH ³,W H[SORUHV HDFK VKRZ DQG WKH ÀH[LQJ RI PXVFOHV RI WKHVH GHVLJQHUV

- 47 -

febjhedW\hWk$Yec CWii_cei_ij[cW 8[Z" Z[i_]d[Z Xo FebjhedW <hWk H$ :$

?dj[bb_][dY[ _d ekh ^WdZi$ Jhk[ X[Wkjo _i ceh[ j^Wd ia_d Z[[f$ J^_i _i m^Wj m[ j^_da Wj FebjhedW <hWk" m^_Y^ _i m^o m[ ^Wl[ WbmWoi fbWY[Z ekh jhkij _d j^[ ia_bb\kb ^WdZi e\ ekh YhW\jic[d" m^e b[WZ [l[ho i_d]b[ ij[f e\ j^[ cWdk\WYjkh_d] fheY[ii WdZ Y^eei[ j^[ l[ho Ó d[ij hWm cWj[h_Wbi$ J^_i _i ekh mWo e\ e\\[h_d] oek j^[ X[ij _jWb_Wd gkWb_jo$

E; :b^gViZh >ciZg^dgh AA8 9dlcidlc 9jWV^ I .,& ) ((. ,&&& 8dgc^X]Z 6Wj 9]VW^ I .,& ' +(* .(.( lll#e[Zb^gViZh#VZ 6 BjWVYVaV 9ZkZadebZci 8dbeVcn Ä EdaigdcV ;gVj <gdje ?d^ci KZcijgZ

INTERIORS

&

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

Bricks mortar R E F I N E D

- 49 -

Image: Eric Carlson

INTERIORS

They’re like children,” says Eric Carlson, the former director of architecture at Louis Vuitton, on the subject of his design projects. “It sounds a little cliché, I guess, but it’s very personal for us and we’re very much involved – from the building, the interior and the furniture.” If you’re into fashion then chances are you’ve walked LQWR RQH RI &DUOVRQ¶V VWRUHV /RXLV 9XLWWRQ¶V ÀDJVKLS on the Champs-Élysées in Paris, the neighbouring Céline in Avenue Montaigne, Tag Heuer in London or WKH /RQJFKDPS ÀDJVKLS DORQJ 1HZ <RUN¶V 0DGLVRQ Avenue. And while Carlson’s brood stretches beyond said four stores, perhaps it is Louis Vuitton’s four-level 20,000-square-foot shopping space, which opened to much fanfare in 2004, which he is most revered for. “It was a learning experience for everybody – for me especially in terms of understanding how luxury works, and how the corporate French luxury world works, and I think very much so for the brand and the other brands that followed,” says Carlson, who co-founded the Louis Vuitton Architecture Department in 1997 before setting up his architecture studio, Carbondale, in Paris in 2004. “Architecture became a way to brag and give people an experience. Spaces were getting bigger, product lines were getting bigger and architecture, spatially (stairs, - 50 -

Image: Louis Vuitton, Champs-Élysées

He’s designed residential buildings and retail boutiques. He’s fitted out car show rooms and restaurants. He’s realised museums and plazas and worked on shopping malls and mega installations. For Eric Carlson, it seems anything is architecturally possible

Image: Longchamp, Hong Kong

double volumes and external façades), became manners to express the brand and tools for communication.â€? The decade that followed saw Carlson emerge as the pied piper of retail architecture, with luxury brands trailing the French maison and its starchitect. Carlsondesigned stores popped up in Dubai (Paspaley), Tokyo 7L̆DQ\ *HUPDQ\ (VFDGD 6KDQJKDL + 6WHUQ DQG Hong Kong (Longchamp), with pending projects as far away as Brazil. “There was a wave that added credibility to this retail world which had previously been ‘hands R̆ WKDWÂśV GLUW\ WKDWÂśV FRPPHUFLDOÂś ´ VD\V &DUOVRQ Âł%XW now it’s a whole new realm that architects are hungry for. There was a lot of development and growth for me in that situation because we were building enormous DPRXQWV RI SURMHFWV KLJKO\ UHÂżQHG WR >D FOLHQWÂśV@ particular location.â€? And it is this “customizationâ€? that runs throughout Carlson’s projects, be it personalised art murals (Longchamp on New Bond Street) or reinterpretations of a Parisian home (Louis Vuitton’s 3DULV Ă€DJVKLS “We go through a very complex research phase – and that phase is at least as long as the conceptual design SKDVH DURXQG ÂżYH PRQWKV Âą ZKHUH ZH WDON WR HYHU\ERG\ LQYROYHG LQ WKH SURMHFW :KHWKHU LWÂśV D KRXVH ṘFH RU store, we talk to everybody from the president to the VDOHV VWD̆ ,WÂśV DERXW NQRZLQJ HYHU\WKLQJ DQG EHLQJ informed, which has two dimensions to it: one is to be knowledgeable about it so that a design is responding to these nuances and complexities; the second dimension is that people, when you go through a design process, they need to feel part of it as they take ownership of these projects.â€? The father-of-two is quick to point out that he’s not limited to retail. “We’ve done almost everything,â€? he says of his previous projects. In Switzerland there’s the &DUOVRQ GHVLJQHG 7$* +HXHU PXVHXP LQ 6SDLQ the Plaza Ecija; in Tokyo the Celux club; and, returning to Paris for a moment, the glistening BMW showroom DORQJ $YHQXH *HRUJH 9 Âł, GRQÂśW UHDOO\ GLVFULPLQDWH I’m more excited about the client who is interested in a project than I am typology.â€? When it comes to business, Carlson is not interested LQ FRPSHWLQJ IRU FRQWUDFWV Âł7KH VXSHUÂżFLDOQHVV RI D competition will never really provide a really pertinent solution to this complex animalâ€?); he doesn’t really take briefs (“People latch on to one thing and you have to not latch on to one thing but many things and somehow coalesce them into one singular powerful VROXWLRQ ZLWK PXOWL IDFHWV´ DQG KH ORYHV GL̇FXOW clients (“Because they have something to sayâ€?). Too, he’s quick to compliment the “grey matterâ€? holed up in the Carbondale HQ (“We have lots of respectful grey matter and brains to get ideas, generate thoughts, and to leave no stone unturnedâ€?); he believes wholly in the importance of the client (“I’m kind of like an architectural psychoanalyst of sorts without being presumptuous about anything other than trying to

get the right spatial solution for the clientâ€?); and he’s nervous for architects who have delegated design and installation responsibilities to third parties (“By not taking on interiors and design, by abandoning these things, architects have been relegated to doing shellsâ€?). What are his thoughts on design trends? Does a trend dictate a project? “I hate design trends. People want to know what’s next because they want to get in there early and make money. It’s titillating. We don’t deal in trends, we create designs that people will follow; and our designs will become trends that people follow.â€? Does he have a signature style? “Please, if I have a style then put me to death because it means I’ve basically started copying myself. The whole point is to do something original and not copy yourself or someone else. Why would you hire me if I was just going to copy someone else?â€? As we approach 2015, what next for this American in Paris? “I would like to do something in a more landscaped context. We’ve done a lot of work that is urban and I would like to do something more in a resort VHWWLQJ $QG DLUSRUWV Âą , ZRXOG OLNH WR GR D ÂżUVW FODVV lounge.â€? In the near future, however, it is the renovation of a luxury shopping centre in SĂŁo Paulo, JK Iguatemi, that has his full attention. “For the luxury shopping centre we created pockets of luxury within the public areas by designing islands domesticity in scale and ambiance,â€? says Carlson. “In Brazil there are no Avenue Montaignes so because of the weather and the crime everything happens internally. Shopping centres are an oasis in many ways – you can socialise, eat and shop. It’s essentially a neighbourhood. It’s a lifestyle.â€? A lifestyle SĂŁo Paulo is sure to embrace.

- 51 -

TIMEPIECES

TARIQ MALIK As the UAE celebrates National Day, we take a look at examples of special-order watches created to celebrate different occasions, which have become a source of collectors’ interest

AUDEMARS PIGUET & SHEIKH MOHAMMED

ROLEX & THE SULTAN OF OMAN

PATEK PHILIPPE & IBN SAUD

This timepiece only came to the public’s attention in 2013 at Christie’s inaugural Dubai auction. HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has had a number of commemorative watches created with his signature, in particular during his time as Minister of Defence when a number of Rolex sports models, including the Rolex Submariner reference 1680 and the GMT reference 1675 were awarded WR ṘFHUV 7KH 8$( JRYHUQPHQW KDV also given many such gifts. However, Rolex now rarely provides custom dials, therefore these have become highly sought after. The Audemars Piguet Sheikh Mohammed watch has less information on the circumstances around its creation, as it seems only a very limited number of pieces were ordered. However, it has been shown that the dial left the manufacturer as currently shown and was delivered through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in the early 1980s.

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos is well known for his passion for watches, which has led to the creation of various dials across many brands. The most well-known among socalled ‘Oman’ dials is Rolex. These watches were mainly given as gifts to visiting dignitaries or for honorary occasions and were predominantly sourced through Asprey of London. The most famous are the Khanjar (dagger) dials, while the rarest and most sought after are the Qaboos dials that carry the Sultan’s signature in red. In particular, a very limited number of Sea Dwellers (reference 1665) were presented to a group of SAS operatives for their assistance in quelling a rebel uprising in the 1970s. The 1665, famous for being the Double Red Sea Dweller, had the name and depth rating replaced with only a signature, providing a simplicity and elegance for which collectors are regularly willing to pay multiple times the value of a similar Rolex.

Specially ordered by the Saudi Arabia Patek retailer in 1953, the reference 600/1 was created in honor of King Abdul al-Aziz III Ibn Saud (1880- 1953), founder of modern Saudi Arabia. In 18-carat pink gold, the enamel dial with ruby indices is a testament to Patek Philippe’s history of supplying watches worthy of royalty. Made in a series of 200 pocket watches and 150 wristwatches, each dial carries a carefully hand-painted portrait.

- 53 -

Tariq Malik is co-founder of 0RPHQWXP WKH 8$(ÂśV ÂżUVW DQG only vintage watch boutique. momentum-dubai.com

TIMEPIECES In the 19th century, Moritz Grossmann was a leading German watchmaker, until his untimely death. CEO Christine Hutter tells AIR about the revival of the once-forgotten marque

W Words: LARA BRUNT

PHOENIX

RISING

- 54 -

hen Christine Hutter, a watchmaking industry veteran of nearly 30 years, embarked on a mission to revive the venerable, yet long-forgotten GlashĂźtte brand Moritz Grossmann in 2008, even she could not imagine how far she would come in just a few short years. “I started really from the kitchen table. I had a lot of ideas and a business plan, but it was D YHU\ GL̇FXOW WLPH EHFDXVH , ZRUNHG DORQH IRU WKH ÂżUVW HLJKW PRQWKV ´ +XWWHU UHFDOOV After recruiting chief caliber designer Jens Schneider, followed by a design team, and establishing a workshop GlashĂźtte, the village at the heart of German horology for more than \HDUV WKH ÂżUP VWDUWHG WR GHYHORS LWV ÂżUVW movement. ,Q WKH PDUTXH XQYHLOHG LWV ÂżUVW timepiece, the Benu, inspired by ancient Egyptian mythology. “Everyone said we were like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so I looked and found the story of the Benu bird. The divine heron settled into its nest one HYHQLQJ ZKLFK ZDV FRQVXPHG E\ ÂżUH ,W OHIW an egg and the next morning a new Benu bird KDWFKHG ´ VKH VD\V The Atum, the second generation Benu Power Reserve and third generation Benu Tourbillon soon followed. “Independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour, who I admire very much, said to me, ‘The tourbillon is fantastic. Congratulations’. During Basel he came twice with collectors to introduce them WR RXU ZDWFK Âą FDQ \RX LPDJLQH"´ VKH ODXJKV Âł,W ZDV DPD]LQJ DQG D ELJ FRPSOLPHQW ´ A trained watchmaker, the Bavarian-born CEO is a unique combination of creativity, technical know-how and business acumen. She is also one of the few women at the top

of the industry. “I think I am more or less unique because no woman has ever created a manufactory from scratch, and it’s true that WKH ZDWFK EXVLQHVV LV GRPLQDWHG E\ PHQ ´ VKH concedes. Yet, she feels women bring a fresh perspective to watchmaking. “An end customer told me, ‘I love your watches and you can see WKHUH LV D ZRPDQÂśV WRXFKÂś ´ After completing her apprenticeship in Munich, Hutter began her career in the service workshop of Wempe, Germany’s largest luxury watch retailer, before later switching to sales. In 1996, she moved to GlashĂźtte and spent

‘I started really from the kitchen table’ the next eight years working in marketing and distribution for A. Lange & SĂśhne and GlashĂźtte Original, travelling regularly to the Middle East. “For me, it’s little bit like coming home. You see another side of hospitality and FRQÂżGHQFH LQ WKH 0LGGOH (DVW ,I \RX KDYH D IULHQG \RX KDYH D IULHQG IRU OLIH ´ VKH VD\V Hutter also began to nurture a long-held desire. “As a watchmaker, you have a dream in mind: to create your own watch and I carried WKLV GUHDP ZLWK PH RYHU WKH \HDUV ´ VKH VD\V “During my time in GlashĂźtte, I learned a lot about German watchmaking and discovered that nobody had secured the brand rights to WKH QDPH 0RULW] *URVVPDQQ ´ Grossmann was a GlashĂźtte watchmaker who established his workshop in 1854 DQG FUDIWHG ÂżQH SRFNHW ZDWFKHV SUHFLVLRQ pendulum clocks and chronometers, until his untimely death in 1885 brought an end to his manufactory. “Alongside Adolph Lange, Grossmann was the most important watchmaker in GlashĂźtte. He founded the German Watchmaking School in 1878 and wrote essays and books about German ZDWFKPDNLQJ ´ +XWWHU H[SODLQV With the help of her family, Hutter secured the rights to the brand but temporarily put her plans on hold when she moved to Switzerland in 2004 as managing director of Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA. Four years later, ZLWK WKH VXSSRUW RI SULYDWH ZDWFK DÂżFLRQDGRV she re-established the Grossmann brand. Âł,I \RX ORRN DW WKH PRYHPHQWV \RX ZLOO ÂżQG D QXPEHU RI WUDGLWLRQDO IHDWXUHV WKDW UHĂ€HFW WKH heritage of Grossmann, but we do not want to copy the old pocket watches – we would like to innovate and move them into the 21st century LQ ZULVWZDWFKHV ´ VKH VD\V The time-only Benu features a delicate rose-

gold bezel, solid-silver GLDO DQG ÂżQH WLSSHG brown-violet hands and houses the 100.0 caliber. The curved, milled cutout of the German silver 2/3 plate, a typical Grossmann hallmark, puts the spotlight on the large screw balance and its breathing hairspring. When it came to pairing the Grossmann balance with a tourbillon, key movement functions were reconceived to accommodate the aspirations of the watchmakers with respect to precision, ḢFLHQF\ DQG DHVWKHWLFV 7KH WRXUELOORQ cage is freely suspended from a cantilevered, hand-engraved cock made of German silver. It has an unusually large diameter of 16mm and the upper part of the cage is a V-shaped balance bridge that requires only two posts, a VLJQLÂżFDQW KDOOPDUN IRU ZKLFK D GHVLJQ SDWHQW has been registered. To reliably immobilise the balance in order to accurately set the time, the stop device must bypass the cage frame posts. “We decided to use a brush of human hair because it stops the EDODQFH LQ D VPRRWK ZD\ ´ VD\V +XWWHU 7KLV stop-seconds mechanism is another patentpending innovation. :LWK D WHDP RI WKH ÂżUP LV ZRUNLQJ RQ the next movement, to be unveiled at Basel DORQJ ZLWK LWV ÂżUVW ZRPHQÂśV WLPHSLHFH And, despite her technical knowledge and experience in retail, marketing and distribution, every day brings new challenges. “The next big challenge for us is to increase our brand awareness and tell the story of 0RULW] *URVVPDQQ ´ Available at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, seddiqi.com - 55 -

TIMEPIECES

One careful owner‌ Vintage watch auctions are among the best ways to buy ultra-rare timepieces. London’s Watches of Knightsbridge offer guidance on what to look out for when in the market for a classic design It really depends on the vintage,â€? says Toby Sutton, specialist auctioneer at London’s Watches of Knightsbridge. “The watch brands made a far fewer number of watches from the 1920s up until the 1970s so when someone buys a vintage piece they will stand out from the crowd and will know in some cases that they will not see another person wearing the same watch.â€? Sutton is telling AIR what makes a vintage watch particularly collectable. As part of one of London’s most exclusive auction KRXVHV VSHFLDOLVLQJ LQ ÂżQH DQG FROOHFWDEOH WLPHSLHFHV KH LV ZHOO SODFHG WR R̆HU WLSV “Recently collectors are looking at how a watch has aged – if the dial and bezel have faded to a nice colour or patina then this is unique and can increase the price dramatically – often referred to as ‘tropical’ or ‘chocolate’ dials,â€? he explains. “An interesting history is very desirable too, hence why many military pieces are very collectable. These pieces are also all uniquely issued so one is never the same as another. Also I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playground – it’s just the ultimate hobby for many people.â€? It’s a hobby that is burgeoning in popularity. Watches of Knightsbridge, established by Toby and his father Simon four years ago, held their most recent auction last month, and sold over ÂŁ500,000 in timepieces, including a rare blue dial Omega Speedmaster from 1965, which is so rare that nobody even knows why it was made. Also up for sale was a stunning Vacheron Constantin chronograph from the 1950s which sold for a mere ÂŁ17,024 – a remarkably low price, according to Sutton, which proves that not only are watch auctions good places to pick up rare watches, they can be found cheaply, too. When asked for tips on what to look out for when buying vintage watches, Sutton explains the complications, saying: “It really depends on what type of vintage watch from which SHULRG , JHW DVNHG WKLV D ORW DQG LW GL̆HUV IURP ZDWFK to watch. Generally it comes down to how original the watch is. The ultimate for any collector is if the watch is - 56 -

all-original, unpolished with the original box and paperwork. Unfortunately only maybe two per cent of vintage watches come like this. An original dial can sometimes hold up to 80 per cent of the total ZDWFKÂśV YDOXH EXW LQ VRPH FDVHV D UHÂżQLVKHG dial can increase the value. It sounds like a PLQHÂżHOG EXW LI \RX EX\ IURP D ZHOO UHVSHFWHG dealer or auction house then they can guide you on what is important to each model or brand.â€? For newcomers to the world of watch auctions, the process can seem daunting. But it doesn’t have to be, says Sutton: “Be prepared, do your homework, try and view the watches or request additional images, and try to speak to one of the experts about the

‘I see collecting watches like collecting cards in a school playground’ watches of interest to get their honest opinion,â€? he advises. And if something really special comes up, do anything to get it. “The Rolex Daytona [left] is the most expensive watch we’ve sold – it went for ÂŁ76,600,â€? Sutton recalls. “This reference was worn by Paul Newman and it was only made for a short period between 1969 and 1972. The original owner who sold it was just a little surprised at the outcome as he was unaware of the popularity of this model.â€? Finally, the auctioneer tells AIR which timepiece he’d kill to have pass under the hammer at Watches of Knightsbridge. “It ZRXOG EH JUHDW WR DXFWLRQ R̆ WKH RULJLQDO 5ROH[ Submariner watch worn by Sean Connery in WKH -DPHV %RQG ÂżOP 'U 1R ´ >&KULVWLHÂśV VROG D 7L̆DQ\ VLJQHG YHUVLRQ RI WKLV PRGHO IRU 86 LQ @ $V IRU ZKDW KHÂśG OLNH WR RZQ himself? “There is not one watch which I would like to own, the list is endless,â€? Sutton laughs, “This is the same great problem for all watch collectors.â€? For more information on upcoming auctions at Watches of Knightsbridge, visit watchesofknightsbridge.com - 57 -

JEWELLERY

I

Q WKH UDUH¿HG ZRUOG RI ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ Stephen Webster is something of a surprise. 5ḊVK DQG WDWWRRHG ZLWK D VZDJJHU QRW WRR GLVVLPLODU WR KLV VXSHUVWDU FOLHQWV ± KH¶V PDGH ZHGGLQJ ULQJV IRU 0DGRQQD DQG 3LQN DQG GHVLJQHG RQH RI D NLQG SLHFHV IRU WKH OLNHV RI %H\RQFp DQG -HQQLIHU /RSH] ± KH UHVHPEOHV D \RXQJHU .HLWK 5LFKDUGV +H ULGHV D +DUOH\ 'DYLGVRQ SDUWLHV ZLWK %U\DQ )HUU\ DQG UHDGV WK FHQWXU\ SRHWU\ 7KDW¶V QRW WR VD\ KH FDQ¶W PL[ LW ZLWK WKH HVWDEOLVKPHQW ,Q :HEVWHU ZDV QDPHG FUHDWLYH GLUHFWRU RI WKH ZRUOG¶V ROGHVW MHZHOOHU\ KRXVH *DUUDUG D SRVLWLRQ KH KHOG IRU ¿YH \HDUV +H KDV EHHQ FURZQHG %ULWLVK /X[XU\ -HZHOOHU RI WKH <HDU WKUHH WLPHV DQG ZDV DZDUGHG DQ 0%( ODVW \HDU IRU KLV VHUYLFHV WR WKH %ULWLVK MHZHOOHU\ LQGXVWU\ %XW KH VD\V LQ KLV &RFNQH\ OLNH DFFHQW ³$V PXFK DV , FDQ EH WUDGLWLRQDO LW¶V QRW UHDOO\ ZKDW , ZDQW WR EH , ZDQW WR XVH DOO RI WKDW LQ VRPH ZD\ DQG WKHQ QRW EH WUDGLWLRQDO ´ $Q H[SHUW FUDIWVPDQ :HEVWHU LV NQRZQ IRU KLV EROG GHVLJQV DQG XVH RI VHPL SUHFLRXV JHPV VXFK DV WDQ]DQLWHV WRXUPDOLQHV DQG SHULGRWV ³,W¶V YHU\ GL̇FXOW WR FDOO D VWRQH VHPL SUHFLRXV ZKHQ LW FRVWV Â… ZKLFK VRPH RI WKRVH VWRQHV FDQ HDVLO\ GR ´ KH VD\V ³7KH\ IHHO OHVV IRUPDO EHFDXVH WKH FRORXUV DUH WRQDO DQG D ELW GL̆HUHQW WR KDYLQJ VRPHRQH JR µUXE\ VDSSKLUH HPHUDOGV¶ ³6RPHWLPHV \RX FDQ XVH JHPV LQ D ZD\ WKDW LW¶V QRW VR PXFK DERXW WKH VXSHU KLJK YDOXH LQ RQH SDUWLFXODU JHP RU D QHFNODFH WKDW EHFRPHV D Â… PLOOLRQ QHFNODFH 7KDW GRHVQ¶W LQWHUHVW PH DW DOO ± DOWKRXJK LW ZRXOG EH

Top of the rocks QLFH LI , VROG D IHZ ´ KH ODXJKV ³0\ QHZHVW FROOHFWLRQ 0DJQLSKHDVDQW KDV D ORW RI UHG JDUQHWV LQ LW D VWRQH WKDW , ¿UVW ZRUNHG ZLWK LQ V 3HRSOH VWLOO DVN µZKDW LV LW"¶ DQG , TXLWH OLNH WKDW ,W¶V PRUH DERXW FUHDWLQJ WKH ORRN WKDW VXLWV P\ VW\OH DQG XVLQJ JHPV WKDW SHRSOH DUH LQWHUHVWHG LQ HQRXJK WR DVN WKH TXHVWLRQ ´ :HEVWHU¶V RZQ LQWHUHVW LQ MHZHOOHU\ EHJDQ DJHG ZKHQ KH HQUROOHG LQ DUW VFKRRO LQ 5RFKHVWHU .HQW ³7KH UHDVRQ , HQGHG XS WKLQNLQJ , FRXOG EH DW DUW VFKRRO ZDV E\ ZDWFKLQJ 'DYLG %RZLH DQG NQRZLQJ WKDW KH¶G EHHQ WR DUW VFKRRO ´ KH VD\V ³, ZDVQ¶W D PXVLFLDQ EXW , WKRXJKW µORRN DW WKDW JX\ KH GRHVQ¶W ORRN OLNH DQ DFFRXQWDQW RU VRPHRQH ZKR ZRUNV LQ WKH GRFN\DUGV¶ ZKLFK LV ZKHUH SHRSOH ZKHUH , FDPH IURP HQGHG XS LI \RX ZHUHQ¶W D EUDLQER[ ´

Stephen Webster’s bold and colourful designs are beloved of rock stars and royalty. Lara Brunt sits down with fine jewellery’s most unconventional star

$IWHU LQLWLDOO\ HQUROOLQJ LQ IDVKLRQ :HEVWHU VWXPEOHG DFURVV WKH MHZHOOHU\ DQG VLOYHUVPLWK FRXUVH ZKLFK ZDV PRUH KLV VW\OH ³,¶G QHYHU FRQVLGHUHG MHZHOOHU\ EXW , WKRXJKW LW ORRNHG OLNH VRPHWKLQJ , FRXOG JHW P\ KDQGV DURXQG ,W ZDV YHU\ PXFK D WHFKQLFDO FRXUVH ± PDNLQJ MHZHOOHU\ UDWKHU WKDQ MXVW GUDZLQJ LW ± ZKLFK IRU PH ZDV D UHDOO\ JUHDW ZD\ WR VWDUW ´ KH VD\V

- 58 -

$IWHU FRPSOHWLQJ KLV DSSUHQWLFHVKLS LQ +DWWRQ *DUGHQ :HEVWHU ZRUNHG DV D FUDIWVPDQ IRU VHYHUDO /RQGRQ GHVLJQ KRXVHV DQG WKHQ EUDQFKHG RXW RQ KLV RZQ ³7KDW FRLQFLGHG ZLWK JROG EHLQJ WKH KLJKHVW LW KDG HYHU EHHQ ZKLFK FDXVHV HYHU\WKLQJ WR VKXW GRZQ IRU D ELW VR LW ZDV YHU\ GL̇FXOW 7KHQ D JX\ FDPH DQG R̆HUHG PH WKLV MRE LQ &DQDGD ´ KH VD\V 7KH JX\ ZDV D &DQDGLDQ JHP DGYHQWXUHU ZKR WUDYHOOHG WKH ZRUOG LQ VHDUFK RI VWRQHV ZLWK QDPHV :HEVWHU KDG QHYHU KHDUG RI ³+H MXVW JDYH PH WKHVH LQFUHGLEOH URFNV DQG , KDG WR GR LW DOO ± GHVLJQ LW PDNH LW 7KH\ ZHUH ELJ DQG FRORXUIXO VR P\ VW\OH EHFDPH ELJ DQG FRORXUIXO ´ KH VD\V :HEVWHU¶V QH[W VWRS ZDV &DOLIRUQLD ZKHUH KLV

‘He just gave me these incredible rocks... they were big and colourful, so my style became big and colourful’

GHVLJQV ZHUH D KLW ³,Q &DOLIRUQLD LW VHHPHG WKHUH ZDV D FXVWRPHU IRU GHFRQVWUXFWHG OHVV IRUPDO ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ ± PRUH OLNH D %XOJDUL WKDQ D &DUWLHU ,W ZDVQ¶W DOO DERXW GLDPRQGV DQG SDYp ± LW IHOW D ELW PRUH FDVXDO ´ +RZHYHU DIWHU PRYLQJ EDFN WR /RQGRQ LQ WKH ODWH µ V LW VHHPHG (QJODQG ZDVQ¶W TXLWH UHDG\ IRU :HEVWHU ³-HZHOOHU\ GHVLJQHUV ZHUH DQRQ\PRXV DQG 9RJXH ZRXOGQµW ZULWH DERXW ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ EHFDXVH LW ZDVQ¶W IDVKLRQ ´ KH VD\V ³6R , VSHQW WKH QH[W VHYHQ \HDUV À\LQJ WR &DOLIRUQLD VHOOLQJ ZKDW ,¶G PDGH DQG WKHQ JRLQJ EDFN WR (QJODQG PDNLQJ DQRWKHU ORW ´ +LV IDVKLRQDEOH ¿QH MHZHOOHU\ FDXJKW WKH H\H RI $PHULFDQ 9RJXH DQG D FHUWDLQ VXSHUVWDU FDOOHG 0DGRQQD ZKR ZDV VQDSSHG ZHDULQJ KLV &U\VWDO +D]H FRFNWDLO ULQJ :HEVWHU GHYHORSHG KLV VLJQDWXUH WHFKQLTXH E\ IXVLQJ D IDFHWHG FU\VWDO RYHU D SUHFLRXV JHPVWRQH SURGXFLQJ D FRORXU WKDW LV LOOXPLQDWHG WR FUHDWH D KRORJUDSKLF H̆HFW 7RGD\ :HEVWHU KDV ÀDJVKLS VWRUHV RQ 0RXQW 6WUHHW LQ /RQGRQ DQG 5RGHR 'ULYH LQ %HYHUO\ +LOOV DQG DURXQG SRLQWV RI VDOH ZRUOGZLGH LQFOXGLQJ 'XEDL DQG

.XZDLW :KHQ LW FRPHV WR PDUNHWV OLNH WKH 0LGGOH (DVW ³, WKLQN WKH \RXQJHU FURZG LV GUDZQ WR ZKDW , GR´ KH VD\V :HEVWHU KDV DOVR EHHQ DQ DGYRFDWH RI HWKLFDOO\ PLQHG PDWHULDOV WUDYHOOLQJ WR 7DQ]DQLD DQG 3HUX WR PHHW PLQLQJ FRPPXQLWLHV DQG LV DQ DPEDVVDGRU IRU )DLUWUDGH DQG )DLUPLQHG *ROG +H SRLQWV RXW D FU\VWDO KD]H SHQGDQW IURP WKH /DG\ 6WDUGXVW FROOHFWLRQ LQVSLUHG E\ %RZLH¶V OHJHQGDU\ DOWHU HJR =LJJ\ 6WDUGXVW IHDWXULQJ 3HUXYLDQ SLQN RSDO TXDUW] DQG GLDPRQGV VHW LQ URVH JROG ³3HUXYLDQ SLQN RSDO LV D VRIW WRQH VR LW¶V QRW VRPHWKLQJ \RX ORRN DW DQG JR µZRZ ´ KH HQWKXVHV ³,QVWHDG \RX¶UH GUDZQ LQWR LW« LW¶V GH¿QLWHO\ QRW DQ REYLRXV JHP ´ $ ELW OLNH WKH PDQ KLPVHOI Available at levant.com

- 59 -

- 60 -

O R D I N A R Y

G I R L ·

·

·

She may be the face of Chanel and worth £30 million but Keira Knightley still strives to appear as normal as her less well-off friends Words: LIZ HOGGARD

K

eira Knightley is sitting in a darkened hotel URRP $W ¿UVW , hardly see her. Dressed in an asymmetric dark pink frock that VKRZV R̆ WDZQ\ OLPEV .QLJKWOH\ LV ULGLFXORXVO\ EHDXWLIXO ² DOO FKHHNERQHV DQG LQWHUHVWLQJ VKDGRZV %XW VKH VZHDUV ¿GJHWV ² , VHQVH DQ LQQHU WRPER\ 7KH ¿UVW WKLQJ VKH GRHV LV apologise for nearly choking on a

ELVFXLW ³/LNH D FDW ZLWK D KDLU EDOO ´ VKH JULPDFHV ,¶P H[SHFWLQJ KHU WR EH PRUH JXDUGHG 6LQFH VKH EXUVW RQ WR RXU VFUHHQV DW WKH DJH RI LQ %HQG LW /LNH %HFNKDP ZKLFK VKH VKRW DIWHU WDNLQJ KHU *&6(V VKH¶V EHHQ DFFXVHG RI EHLQJ WRR ULFK WRR SRVK WRR WKLQ VKH VXHG D WDEORLG LQ IRU FODLPLQJ VKH KDG EHFRPH D UROH PRGHO IRU DQRUH[LD VX̆HUHUV 7KH SDSDUD]]L XVHG WR VWDQG RXWVLGH KHU KRPH DQG VKRXW REVFHQLWLHV WR JHW D UHDFWLRQ EXW WKH GD\V RI EHLQJ VWDONHG DUH RYHU ³,¶P YHU\ OXFN\ ,W - 61 -

ZDV TXLWH IXOO RQ IRU D ZKLOH EXW DW WKLV DJH DQG ZLWK WKH VRUW RI ZRUN , ZHQW LQWR LW¶V QRZ HDV\ WR KDYH P\ RZQ OLIH $QG LW¶V QLFH EHLQJ EDFN RQ WKH 7XEH ´ VKH GHDGSDQV .QLJKWOH\ JDLQHG D UHSXWDWLRQ IRU EHLQJ SULFNO\ IDPRXVO\ WHUPLQDWLQJ DQ LQWHUYLHZ ZKHQ WKH MRXUQDOLVW VWDUWHG TXL]]LQJ KHU DERXW FRRNLQJ ZLWK KHU ER\IULHQG (DUOLHU WKLV \HDU VKH DGPLWWHG WKDW ³XS WR , ZDV SUHWW\ QHXURWLF´ 6XUURXQGHG E\ DGXOWV RQ VHW VKH ZDV WU\LQJ IDU WRR KDUG WR EH JURZQ XS

6KH DQG 5LJKWRQ KDYH PRYHG IURP KLSVWHU HDVW /RQGRQ WR QRUWK /RQGRQ 7KH\ FRRN UHDG WUDYHO LQFRJQLWR ³,¶P D ELJ IDQ RI ZDONLQJ , WKLQN WKDW¶V ZKDW PDNHV /RQGRQ D JUHDW FLW\ ,W IHHOV YHU\ KHDOWK\ , WKLQN WKDW¶V WKH QXPEHU RQH UHDVRQ , FDQ¶W TXLWH KDQGOH / $ ´ 7KH FRXSOH PHW DW D GLQQHU SDUW\ WKURXJK a friend and share lots of geeky LQWHUHVWV 5LJKWRQ¶V GHJUHH ZDV LQ KLVWRU\ DQG SROLWLFV ³VR KH¶V D ELJ KLVWRU\ EX̆´ EXW QRW LW VHHPV PXVLF ,W¶V D FOLFKp WKDW VR PDQ\ DFWUHVVHV IDOO IRU %ULWLVK URFN VWDUV WKLQN *Z\QHWK 3DOWURZ DQG &KULV 0DUWLQ &DUH\ 0XOOLJDQ DQG 0DUFXV 0XPIRUG EXW DFWXDOO\ .QLJKWOH\ IUHHO\ DGPLWV WKDW VKH LVQ¶W WKDW LQWHUHVWHG LQ PXVLF ³7KH YLVXDO VLGH DQG ERRNV DUH KXJH IRU PH EXW PXVLF LVQ¶W ´ VKH FRQIHVVHV ³,¶P PDUULHG WR D PXVLFLDQ DQG WKHUHIRUH KDYH ORWV RI IULHQGV QRZ ZKR DUH PXVLFLDQV , ORYH KRZ SDVVLRQDWH KLV ZKROH JURXS DUH DERXW LW ² REYLRXVO\ LW¶V D WRWDO YRFDWLRQ DQG SDUWLFXODUO\ QRZ IRU VR PDQ\ RI WKHP LW¶V VR

WR PXVLF DQG WKDW GLGQ¶W ZRUN DW DOO EXW , PDQDJHG LW LQ VLOHQFH %HFDXVH VRPHWKLQJ DERXW KHDULQJ \RXU RZQ EUHDWK DQG EHLQJ YHU\ DZDUH RI ZKDW¶V DURXQG \RX , IRXQG PXFK EHWWHU WKDQ KDYLQJ SRXQGLQJ PXVLF WR NHHS \RX JRLQJ ´ Knightley is worth an estimated £30 million. As the face of Chanel VKH JHWV VRPH UDWKHU JRRG IUHHELHV EXW VKH SD\V KHUVHOI D VPDOO VDODU\ UXPRXUHG WR EH Â… D \HDU EHFDXVH VKH ZDQWV WR VWD\ RQ D similar footing to her friends. ³, WKLQN LW ZRXOG EH DZIXO LI \RX VXGGHQO\ RQO\ KXQJ DURXQG ZLWK SHRSOH ZKR ZHUH LQ \RXU SD\ EUDFNHW RU \RXU FODVV RU SURIHVVLRQ ´ VKH WHOOV PH ³/LIH LV RQO\ LQWHUHVWLQJ EHFDXVH RI WKH GL̆HUHQW SHRSOH \RX KDYH LQ LW $QG WKH LGHD \RX RQO\ YDOXH SHRSOH ZKR HDUQ D FHUWDLQ DPRXQW DQG WKHUHIRUH KDYH D FHUWDLQ VXFFHVV WKDW LV WRWDOO\ ULGLFXORXV ,¶YH PHW VRPH right s***s who earn a lot of money ZKR , GH¿QLWHO\ ZRXOGQ¶W ZDQW WR KDYH GLQQHU ZLWK ´ ,Q 6HSWHPEHU VKH SRVHG WRSOHVV for Patrick Demarchelier in ,QWHUYLHZ PDJD]LQH VWULNLQJ D

‘I think women’s bodies are a battleground and photography is partly to blame’ 7RGD\ KRZHYHU VKH FRXOG DOPRVW EH WKH JXHVW \RX VLW QH[W WR DW D dinner party as she veers from FKDWWLQJ DERXW WKH SOHDVXUHV RI XUEDQ ZDONLQJ WR +LOODU\ &OLQWRQ¶V HOHFWLRQ SURVSHFWV 6KH ZDQWV WR NQRZ ZKLFK VDORQ , ZHQW WR WR JHW WKH IHDWKHUV ZRYHQ LQWR P\ KDLU , DSRORJLVH IRU ORRNLQJ OLNH D PLGGOH DJHG IHVWLYDOJRHU ³1R LW¶V IDEXORXV WRWDOO\ JR IRU LW ´ VKH VD\V ,W¶V DQ LOOXVLRQ RI FRXUVH 7KLV LV work for Knightley. Yet she seems VR UHOD[HG 3DUWO\ RQH VXVSHFWV this is down to her recent marriage VKH PDUULHG .OD[RQV NH\ERDUGLVW -DPHV 5LJKWRQ LQ D VPDOO FHUHPRQ\ LQ WKH VRXWK RI )UDQFH ODVW \HDU DQG SDUWO\ WR WKH VRUW RI UROHV VKH¶V QRZ WDNLQJ ² LQGLH ¿OPV UDWKHU WKDQ EORFNEXVWHUV VXFK DV 3LUDWHV RI WKH &DULEEHDQ

KDUG WR PDNH DQ\ PRQH\ RXW RI LW %XW LW¶V MXVW QRW P\ WKLQJ , FDQ¶W TXLWH JR WKHUH 7KHUH¶V VRPH VWX̆ , UHDOO\ OLNH ´ VKH EULJKWHQV ³EXW , ZRXOGQ¶W JR µ, KDYH WR OLVWHQ WR LW all the time and immerse myself LQ LW¶ ´ , PHQWLRQ IULHQGV RI PLQH ZKR DUH REVHVVHG ZLWK JXLWDUV +HU UHVSRQVH LV KHDUWIHOW ³7KH DPRXQW RI FRQYHUVDWLRQV ,¶YH OLVWHQHG WR DERXW GL̆HUHQW V\QWKHVL]HUV IURP WKH V $QG WKH GL̆HUHQW SODFHV ZKHUH \RX EX\ WKH V\QWKHVL]HUV IURP WKH V ´ ,I DQ\WKLQJ VKH VD\V VKH ORYHV VLOHQFH ³'R \RX NQRZ ZKDW , GLG RYHU WKH VXPPHU" ,W GLGQ¶W ODVW ORQJ ´ VKH ODXJKV ³, GHFLGHG WKDW , ZDV JRLQJ WR WHDFK P\VHOI WR MRJ EHFDXVH ORWV RI SHRSOH VD\ KRZ MRJJLQJ LV OLNH PHGLWDWLRQ $QG , DFWXDOO\ GLG PDQDJH LW IRU D FRXSOH RI ZHHNV ,Q WKH SDVW ,¶G EHHQ OLVWHQLQJ - 62 -

EORZ IRU ÀDW FKHVWHG ZRPHQ ³,¶YH KDG P\ ERG\ PDQLSXODWHG VR PDQ\ GL̆HUHQW WLPHV IRU VR PDQ\ GL̆HUHQW UHDVRQV ZKHWKHU LW¶V SDSDUD]]L SKRWRJUDSKHUV RU IRU ¿OP SRVWHUV And that [shoot] was one of the ones ZKHUH , VDLG µ2. ,¶P ¿QH GRLQJ LW VR ORQJ DV \RX GRQ¶W PDNH WKHP DQ\ ELJJHU RU UHWRXFK¶ %HFDXVH LW GRHV IHHO LPSRUWDQW WR VD\ LW UHDOO\ GRHVQ¶W PDWWHU ZKDW VKDSH \RX DUH ³, WKLQN ZRPHQ¶V ERGLHV DUH D EDWWOHJURXQG DQG SKRWRJUDSK\ LV SDUWO\ WR EODPH ´ VKH VD\V ³,W¶V PXFK HDVLHU WR WDNH D SLFWXUH RI VRPHERG\ ZLWKRXW D VKDSH LW VLPSO\ LV :KHUHDV DFWXDOO\ \RX QHHG WUHPHQGRXV VNLOO WR EH DEOH WR JHW D ZRPDQ¶V VKDSH DQG PDNH LW ORRN OLNH LW GRHV LQ OLIH ZKLFK LV DOZD\V EHDXWLIXO %XW RXU VRFLHW\ LV VR SKRWRJUDSKLF QRZ LW EHFRPHV PRUH

- 63 -

- 64 -

³FDUURW´ RI GUDPD FODVVHV WR KHOS KHU QDYLJDWH G\VOH[LD 6KH VWLOO VWUXJJOHV WR OHDUQ VFULSWV ZKLFK PXVW KDYH PDGH KHU UROH DV $ODQ 7XULQJ¶V ¿DQFpH -RDQ &ODUNH LQ QHZ ¿OP 7KH ,PLWDWLRQ *DPH TXLWH D VWUHWFK &ODUNH LV DQ XQDSRORJHWLF EOXHVWRFNLQJ .QLJKWOH\ WUDQVIRUPV herself in droopy cardigans and has IXQ ZLWK WKH HUD¶V SOXPP\ YRZHO VRXQGV $IWHU ZDWFKLQJ DUFKLYH footage she fell in love with her FKDUDFWHU ³,W ZDV LQWHUHVWLQJ WR KDYH VRPHRQH ZKR LV ¿JKWLQJ DJDLQVW D ZDOO RI SUHMXGLFH EXW ZKR GRHVQ¶W GR LW LQ D EXOO LQ D FKLQD VKRS ZD\ ³,I \RX WKLQN DERXW KHU RSWLRQV

‘Her most interesting performance yet is in the new US comedy Say When’

GL̇FXOW WR VHH DOO RI WKRVH GL̆HUHQW varieties of shape. ³:KLFK LV ZK\ ,¶P VR JODG IHPLQLVP LV EDFN RQ WKH WDEOH ´ VKH VD\V ³, UHPHPEHU LQ VRPHRQH VFṘQJ DW PH EHFDXVH , VDLG , ZDV D IHPLQLVW ² D IHPDOH MRXUQDOLVW VFR̆HG DW PH IRU HYHQ EULQJLQJ WKDW XS DV D WKLQJ , NQRZ LW¶V GL̇FXOW WR WDNH WKDW IURP DFWUHVVHV EHFDXVH WKH\ DUH RIWHQ VH[XDOLVHG EXW , WKLQN LW VKRXOG EH DQ LVVXH RQ WRS RI HYHU\RQH¶V DJHQGD ³,¶YH JRW D FRXSOH RI PDWHV ZKR DUH JX\V ZKR KDYH WDNHQ WKH GHFLVLRQ WR ORRN DIWHU WKHLU NLGV DQG WKH UXEELVK WKH\ IDFH EHFDXVH WKH\¶YH WDNHQ WKDW GHFLVLRQ LV DEVROXWHO\ VKRFNLQJ 7KH DPRXQW RI SUHMXGLFH WKH DPRXQW RI WDNLQJ WKH EDE\ WR WKH EDE\ JURXS DQG ZRPHQ WXUQLQJ URXQG DQG VD\LQJ µ2K LV LW \RXU ZLIH¶V GD\ R̆"¶´ :H WDON DERXW DJHLVP ³,W¶V really desperate the kind of image ZH KDYH RI ZRPHQ DQG ZKHQ \RX KHDU VRPHRQH VD\ µ6KH¶V OHW KHUVHOI JR¶ ZKDWHYHU WKDW PHDQV :KDW ² EHFDXVH VKH¶V JRW JUH\ KDLU"´ $V D FKLOG .QLJKWOH\ ZDV IDPRXVO\ SUHFRFLRXV DQG EHJJHG IRU DQ DJHQW DW VL[ ,Q IDFW KHU SDUHQWV XVHG WKH

VKH ZRXOG SUHWW\ PXFK KDYH EHHQ chained to a kitchen sink. Whereas with Alan it was a meeting of minds and a friendship and great loyalty. 7KH\ FDUHG IRU HDFK RWKHU YHU\ PXFK $QG , FDQ XQGHUVWDQG FKRRVLQJ WKDW RYHU WKH RWKHU ´ VKH VD\V ³&KRRVLQJ D OLIH ZKHUH \RX JHW WR GR ZKDW \RX¶UH WRWDOO\ SDVVLRQDWH DERXW ´ .QLJKWOH\ KDV EHHQ GHOLEHUDWHO\ FKRRVLQJ OHIW ¿HOG UROHV ,Q $WRQHPHQW DQG 7KH 'XFKHVV ZH VDZ ÀDVKHV RI JHQXLQH YXOQHUDELOLW\ 6KH ZDV EULOOLDQWO\ QDVW\ LQ 1HYHU /HW 0H Go. Yet it was those fearless scenes when she played a psychoanalytic SDWLHQW LQ 'DYLG &URQHQEHUJ¶V $ 'DQJHURXV 0HWKRG WKDW PDGH FULWLFV take notice. ,QGLH ¿OPV VXLW KHU 7KHUH¶V OHVV SUHVVXUH WR SOD\ WKH SRXWLQJ LQJpQXH +HU PRVW LQWHUHVWLQJ SHUIRUPDQFH \HW LV LQ WKH QHZ 86 FRPHG\ 6D\ :KHQ ZKHUH VKH SOD\V DQ RYHUHGXFDWHG VODFNHU GULIWLQJ WRZDUGV PDUULDJH XQWLO VKH PHHWV D IHLVW\ WHHQDJHU SOD\HG E\ .LFN $VV¶V &KORs *UDFH 0RUHW] .QLJKWOH\ ZDV GUDZQ WR D ¿OP WKDW LV DERXW WKH SUREOHPV RI WKH ZRPHQ RI *HQHUDWLRQ < ³<RX RIWHQ VHH VWRULHV DERXW PHQ ZKR FDQ¶W JHW WKHPVHOYHV - 65 -

WRJHWKHU EXW LW¶V LQWHUHVWLQJ WKHUH KDYHQ¶W EHHQ PRUH ¿OPV ZLWK IHPDOH OHDGV ZKR DUH JRLQJ WKURXJK WKDW JUDQG ÀRDW ´ 5HFHQWO\ VKH ZDV DVNHG LI VKH HTXDWHG PDUULDJH ZLWK DGXOWKRRG DQG VKH WHDVHG ³,I DQ\WKLQJ P\ KXVEDQG DQG , KDYH UHJUHVVHG ´ +HU RZQ SDUHQWV ZHUH KLSSLHV ZKR only got married to get a mortgage. When she told them she was PDUU\LQJ 5LJKWRQ WKH\ ZHUH PLOGO\ XQLPSUHVVHG ³,W¶OO EH IXQ ´ WKH FRXSOH LQVLVWHG 6KH ZRQ SUDLVH IRU KHU ³IUXJDO´ ZHGGLQJ ² UHF\FOLQJ D Chanel dress and commissioning a gold wedding ring from a friend. 7KHUH¶V VRPHWKLQJ SOHDVLQJO\ ROG VFKRRO DERXW .QLJKWOH\ 6KH KRSHV SHRSOH ZLOO JR WR VHH 7KH ,PLWDWLRQ *DPH DQG VHH WKDW 7XULQJ ZDV ³RQH of the JUDQGIDWKHUV´ RI WKH PRGHUQ FRPSXWHU ³UDWKHU WKDQ 6WHYH -REV RU %LOO *DWHV´ EXW VRFLDO PHGLD OHDYHV KHU FROG ³, ZDV RQ 7ZLWWHU IRU DERXW KRXUV DQG MXVW ZHQW µ1R LW¶V QRW P\ WKLQJ¶ $OO RI P\ IULHQGV DUH RQ ,QVWDJUDP DQG , RFFDVLRQDOO\ OLNH ORRNLQJ DW WKHLU VWX̆ EXW , ZRXOGQ¶W WKLQN DERXW WDNLQJ D SLFWXUH RI DQ\WKLQJ ´ 6KH ZRUULHV DERXW WKH ³PLUURU´ ZRUOG ZH¶UH FUHDWLQJ ZLWK VHO¿HV ³, ZDV LQ D KRWHO LQ 1HZ <RUN DQG LW ZDV DPD]LQJ , VWRRG DQG ZDWFKHG WKHVH JLUOV ZKR ZHUH DERXW IRU DQ KRXU RXWVLGH P\ ZLQGRZ 1RQH RI WKHP VSRNH WR HDFK RWKHU EXW WKHUH ZHUH DERXW RI WKHP DQG WKH\ ZHUH DOO LQGLYLGXDOO\ WDNLQJ SLFWXUHV RI WKHPVHOYHV DQG WKHQ LQ JURXSV HDFK VZDSSLQJ EXW QRERG\ VD\LQJ D ZRUG MXVW ORRNLQJ DW WKH SKRQH DQG WKHQ JRLQJ EDFN DQG KDYLQJ WKH EHVW WLPH , WKRXJKW WKLV LV VXFK DQ LQWHUHVWLQJ VRFLDO WUHQG ´ ,W¶V IXQQ\ WR WKLQN RI DQ $ OLVW FHOHEULW\ ZDWFKLQJ D JURXS of schoolgirls as if they were SHUIRUPHUV EXW DV .QLJKWO\ REVHUYHV WKH ÀDVK\ OHDG LV QRW DOZD\V WKH LQWHUHVWLQJ SDUW ³4XLWH RIWHQ WKH\¶UH WKH ZDVKLQJ OLQH DQG HYHU\RQH HOVH LV WKH SHJ 6RPHWLPHV LW¶V PRUH LQWHUHVWLQJ WR EH WKH SHJ ´ Keira Knightley is the face of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

This month marks 50 years since Sam Cooke was sensationally shot through the heart. AIR examines the tragic final night of the singer’s life, and his longreaching impact on American culture

LONG LIVE THE KING OF SOUL Words: RICHARD JENKINS

Lady, you shot me!� were the last words to come from a shocked Sam Cooke’s mouth on December 10, 1964. As his eyes moved from the holes in his chest to the smoking gun in the hotel manager’s hand, one can only imagine the disbelief in his mind. The life of perhaps the greatest soul singer the world had ever seen was about to come to an ignominious end. Cooke had been on a roll. Since You Send Me catapulted him to the top of the US charts in 1957, the singer had enjoyed seven years of near-continual VXFFHVV SXWWLQJ RXW HUD GH¿QLQJ VRQJV OLNH :RQGHUIXO :RUOG &KDLQ *DQJ DQG SHUKDSV KLV ¿QHVW PRPHQW WKH FLYLO ULJKWV DQWKHP $ &KDQJH ,V *RQQD &RPH %XW success, despite his humble upbringings, led to Cooke’s demise.

%RUQ LQ 0LVVLVVLSSL LQ 6DP &RRN KH DGGHG WKH ÂżQDO ÂłH´ KLPVHOI ODWHU ZDV RQH RI HLJKW FKLOGUHQ ERUQ WR the Reverend Charles Cook and his wife Annie Mae. As WKH *UHDW 'HSUHVVLRQ WRRN KROG RI WKH VRXWK LQ WKH \HDU of Sam’s birth, Cook moved his family north, preaching across the country to the thousands of black families who were making the same journey. Finally, the family settled in Chicago, where Charles took a job in the pulpit at Christ Temple Church. It was here that the musical talent in his young family began to reveal itself, and ÂżYH RI KLV HLJKW FKLOGUHQ ZRXOG UHJXODUO\ SHUIRUP DV D religious act. Over the next several years, the family performed at churches all over the city – but one voice stood out above all the others. It was Sam, who would WHOO KLV VLEOLQJV Âł,ÂśP JRQQD VLQJ DQG PDNH D ORW RI PRQH\ doing it.â€? 3HWHU *XUDOQLFN LV DQ $PHULFDQ PXVLF ZULWHU DQG DXWKRU RI VHPLQDO &RRNH ELRJUDSK\ 'UHDP %RRJLH +H - 66 -

- 67 -

- 68 -

tells AIR: “Sam was as gifted musically as any member of his or any other generation. If you were looking for a suitable comparison, I suppose it would be Ray Charles or Merle Haggard, in that he wrote, produced, and then sang – Ă€DZOHVVO\ – all of his songs. He left behind a catalogue of more than 130 songs, many of which, like Wonderful World, are standards which continue to be recorded to this day, while A Change Is Gonna Come has been an anthem not just for the civil rights movement but for social change of every kind from the time of its ÂżUVW UHOHDVH ´ By the time Sam had reached his late teens, black gospel music was getting showier, attracting huge crowds and plenty of attention – exactly what Sam was looking for. He idolised a singer named R.H. Harris, from the group Soul Stirrers. The young Cooke (it was around this time he amended his second name) was ready to leave his family behind and start making waves under his own name. He and four of his friends started their own gospel quintet named the Highway QCs. At Cooke’s insistence, the group leaned heavily on the Soul Stirrers’ back catalogue for material, and Cooke’s hours spent practising the vocal stylings of R.H. Harris were put to good use. The Highway QCs’ success in the gospel market was marked, but it still wasn’t enough for Cooke. Most of the fans of the genre were poor, many of them blazing the same trails the Cook family had followed to escape the economic depression. Cooke wanted more, and an opportunity was about to present itself that seemed like a dream come true – in 1950, R.H. Harris left the Soul Stirrers to perform solo. What could be better for &RRNH WKDQ ÂżOOLQJ KLV LGROÂśV VKRHV" $W MXVW \HDUV ROG he was on the road with his new group, performing over a thousand concerts across the US over a period of six years. After making dozens of records with the Soul Stirrers,

LV DERXW WR EH UHOHDVHG 7KH QDPH RQ WKH VOHHYH" 'DOH Cooke. Cooke had taken on this fake name to begin KLV SRS FDUHHU VR DV QRW WR R̆HQG KLV JRVSHO IDQV 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ IRU 'DOH 6DP /RYDEOH IDLOHG WR PDNH much of an impression on the charts. It wasn’t until the following year that Keen Records released Sam &RRNHœV ¿UVW VROR UHFRUG XQGHU KLV UHDO QDPH 7KH WUDFN ZDV FDOOHG 6XPPHUWLPH EXW LW ZDV WKH % VLGH <RX Send Me, which Cooke performed on the Ed Sullivan

‘The easiest way for Cooke to propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave gospel and dive headfirst into pop’ a new facet to Cooke’s personality began to open up. He noticed that artists like Little Richard and Chuck Berry had begun to attract crowds that were a mixture of white and black faces – whereas he was playing to audiences that were predominantly black. At the same time, the white performer Elvis Presley was turning the world of music on its head, bringing rock-and-roll to the masses and sending legions of black and white fans into raptures of ecstasy. The easiest way for Cooke to tap into this new market and propel himself into the musical stratosphere would be to leave the world of gospel EHKLQG DQG GLYH KHDGÂżUVW LQWR SRS PXVLF Summertime, 1956. A new pop single called Lovable

Show, that broke through. Guralnick says: “Sam had VHYHUDO EUHDNWKURXJK VRQJV 7KH ÂżUVW <RX 6HQG 0H WKH YHU\ ÂżUVW SRS VRQJ KH UHFRUGHG XQGHU KLV RZQ QDPH established him as a number one pop star in a way that virtually no other African-American singer prior to him had been able to achieve. Bring It On Home to Me, like Ray Charles’ I Got a Woman before it, brought the LQĂ€XHQFH RI WKH EODFN FKXUFK DULVLQJ VSHFLÂżFDOO\ RXW RI Sam’s deep gospel experience) into the pop marketplace DQG HVWDEOLVKHG D WHPSODWH IRU VRXO PXVLF 7KH LQĂ€XHQFH RI $ &KDQJH ,V *RQQD &RPH VSHDNV IRU LWVHOI ´ The day after the Ed Sullivan performance, the song made number one on the Billboard pop chart, going on

- 69 -

to sell over a million copies – more than 10 times his EHVW VHOOLQJ ZRUN ZLWK WKH 6RXO 6WLUUHUV 'DOH &RRNH ZDV dead. Sam Cook, gospel singer, was in the past. The era of Sam Cooke, pop superstar, was just beginning. And so began the stellar run of hits that would put Cooke in the pantheon of musical greats, and all the trappings that came with fame. Guralnick, however, dismisses claims that Cooke was a philanderer, saying: “If Sam was a ‘womaniser,’ I would be hard pressed WR ÂżQG D SRSXODU HQWHUWDLQHU RI KLV RU DQ\ RWKHU JHQHUDWLRQ ZKR ZDVQÂśW ´

‘It was the same need for respect that was to be Cooke’s downfall’ %\ &RRNH ZDV RQ WRS RI WKH ZRUOG EXW ÂżQGLQJ out the hard way that the world wasn’t fair. On October 8 of that year, the singer attempted to check into a hotel in Shreveport, Louisiana. His reservation was taken by phone, but when he arrived at the hotel to check in, he was turned away – because of the colour of his skin. Cooke, a proud man, refused to leave the building. The police were called and Cooke was arrested – standing up for his rights and for himself. This incident led directly to the polemic A Change is Gonna Come, which came to Cooke in a dream – the only song of his to have done so. The song became the anthem for the civil rights movement in the US and an emblem of racial equality. Guralnick says the song is causing an impact even today. “A Change Is Gonna Come was a direct response to the terrible racial inequities of the time — but more than WKDW LW IRXQG LQ WKH VSHFLÂżF WKH EDVLV IRU D XQLYHUVDO appeal for social justice everywhere. Which is why 3UHVLGHQW 2EDPD FRXOG TXRWH IURP LW VR H̆HFWLYHO\ LQ *UDQW 3DUN RQ WKH QLJKW RI KLV HOHFWLRQ ´ KH VD\V And it was the same need for respect that was to be Cooke’s downfall, a little over a year later. On the night RI 'HFHPEHU &RRNH ZDV GXH WR GLQH ZLWK KLV record producer Al Schmitt at Martoni’s, a celebrity haunt near Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles. Predinner, Cooke and Schmitt enjoyed several cocktails in the restaurant’s lounge, when a young woman caught the singer’s eye. He winked at her, and she winked back. For Cooke, dinner was cancelled. The girl was called Elisa Boyer, and her enigmatic looks entranced Cooke. Onlookers said that the two canoodled like a pair of old lovers in a private booth – like they had known each other for years, not hours. It wasn’t long before Cooke whispered in Boyer’s ear that perhaps it was time they got out of there, and the pair slid out to Cooke’s waiting Ferrari and drove to PJs, a happening spot on Santa Monica Boulevard frequented E\ WKH 5DW 3DFN RI )UDQN 6LQDWUD 'HDQ 0DUWLQ 6DPP\ 'DYLV -U HW DO $V &RRNH PDGH WKH URXQGV ZLWK KLV

famous friends, he left Boyer alone at their table – and another man took the opportunity to swoop. Cooke UHWXUQHG GUXQN DQG FKDOOHQJHG WKH PDQ WR D ÂżJKW 7KH WKUHDW ZDV VRRQ GHĂ€DWHG EXW LW ZDV FOHDU WKDW &RRNH ZDV XQGHU WKH LQĂ€XHQFH The night somewhat spoiled, the couple left PJs, again hitting the open road in Cooke’s bright red Ferrari. It wouldn’t take a master detective to surmise their SODQV Âą &RRNHÂśV SURPLVFXLW\ KDG OHIW KLP ZLWK R̆VSULQJ scattered across the continental United States, and Boyer was no stranger to the men on the Sunset Strip. Cooke drove past any number of motels before he reached his destination of choice: The Hacienda Motel, in South Central L.A. The sign out front read “Everyone :HOFRPH´ Âą ZKLFK LQ PHDQW EODFNV Bertha Franklin was working the overnight shift in the dingy lobby when Cooke and his companion arrived. She pointed out that the motel’s policy required the pair to register as husband and wife, and the singer duly ZURWH Âł0U DQG 0UV 6DP &RRNH´ LQ KHU ORJERRN EHIRUH stumbling to their bedroom, where the night took a turn for the unpleasant, and Boyer changed her mind about spending the night. “I started talking very loudly: Âľ3OHDVH WDNH PH KRPH ϫ VKH ODWHU WROG SROLFH Âł+H SLQQHG me on the bed. He kept saying, ‘We’re just going to talk’. +H SXOOHG P\ VZHDWHU R̆ DQG ULSSHG P\ GUHVV ´ Boyer was able to escape when Cooke was in the bathroom – taking his clothes and wallet with her. When Cooke emerged, he discovered an empty room and ZDV FRQVXPHG ZLWK UDJH 'UXQN DQG GUHVVHG RQO\ LQ D MDFNHW DQG VKRHV KH VWRUPHG WR WKH PRWHO ṘFH ZKHUH KH confronted Franklin, who happened to be on the phone with the motel owner. The singer repeatedly bellowed Âł:KHUHÂśV WKH JLUO"´ DV KH KDPPHUHG RQ WKH GRRU Franklin put the phone receiver on the desk, with the line still open, and went to the door. As soon as she got there, Cooke kicked the door in and seized the woman by her arms. A furious struggle ensued, and when Franklin broke free, she grabbed her .22 pistol, pointed it at the crazed man and pulled the trigger three times, changing music history with each squeeze. *XUDOQLFN VD\V WKDW HYHQ LQ KLV ÂżQDO IXULRXV moments, Cooke was acting with dignity. He says: “The circumstances of his death were sordid – but the reason for it was the same one that had almost gotten him killed in Shreveport just one year earlier: the refusal to be disrespected that he and all of his brothers and sisters had learned at their father’s knee. In Shreveport Sam stood up against the prevailing racial mores of the time over the remonstrations of his wife and brother that the police would kill him. (They didn’t. They just threw him in jail.) At the Hacienda Motel in Los Angeles, he was QRW JRLQJ WR OHW KLPVHOI EH VKDPHG RU WDNHQ R̆ E\ DQ\ ZRPDQ HYHQ LI VKH KDG PDGH R̆ ZLWK KLV PRQH\ DQG KLV clothes) – DQG WKH UHVXOW ZDV KLV GHDWK ´ Keeping your principles until the very end – as Cooke sang, so did he live.

- 70 -

- 71 -

- 72 -

Waight For It $V &KORp RSHQV D ÀDJVKLS VWRUH LQ 5L\DGK $,5 VLWV GRZQ ZLWK FUHDWLYH director &/$5( :$,*+7 .(//(5 WR GLVFXVV 3DULVLDQ FKLF DQG WKH LPSRUWDQFH RI EHLQJ \RXUVHOI

S

hould the butcher ÀDVK \RX D FHUWDLQ VPRXOGHU DV KH VKRZV R̆ KLV ¿QHVW FXWV WKHQ \RX DUH UHSRUWV &ODUH :DLJKW .HOOHU ZHOO RQ \RXU ZD\ WR EHFRPLQJ XQH YUDL 3DULVLHQQH $V DQ (QJOLVKZRPDQ LQ 3DULV IRU QHDUO\ WKUHH \HDUV VKH VKRXOG NQRZ 7KH GHVLJQHU PRYHG KHUH IURP /RQGRQ ZLWK KHU WKUHH FKLOGUHQ DQG KXVEDQG WKH DUFKLWHFW 3KLOLS .HOOHU WR WDNH RYHU DV GHVLJQHU DW WKDW )UHQFKHVW RI DOO )UHQFK IDVKLRQ KRXVHV &KORp 7KH LQYHQWRU RI SUrW j SRUWHU DQG IRUPHU KRPH RI .DUO /DJHUIHOG &KORp LV DOO DERXW OLJKWQHVV RI WRXFK JHQWO\ WUDQVPLWWHG VH[LQHVV DQG VHHPLQJO\ H̆RUWOHVV HDVH $W ZRUN VKH LV ZHOO RQ KHU ZD\ WR PDVWHULQJ WKRVH WKHPHV RQ &KORp¶V FDWZDON %XW DW KRPH ± DQG :DLJKW .HOOHU VD\V VKH DOZD\V KDV D IXOO ZHHNHQG R̆ HYHQ LI VKH KDV WR ZRUN ODWH GXULQJ WKH ZHHN WR PDNH WKDW KDSSHQ ± WKH UHFDOLEUDWLRQ IURP (QJODQG WR )UDQFH KDV EHHQ D VORZHU SURFHVV ³2QH RI WKH EHVW WKLQJV DERXW 3DULV ´ VKH VD\V DV ZH VLW LQ KHU OLWWOH ṘFH ³LV WKDW WKHUH DUH VR PDQ\ VKRSV WKDW VSHFLDOLVH <RX EX\ \RXU FKHHVH LQ WKH FKHHVH VKRS 7KH PHDW FRPHV IURP WKH EXWFKHU <RX GRQ¶W

JR WR WKH VXSHUPDUNHW 7R EHFRPH D ORFDO KHUH \RX KDYH WR NHHS JRLQJ WR WKH VDPH SODFH RYHU DQG RYHU 6ORZO\ WKH\ JHW WR NQRZ \RX DQG UHDOLVH \RX DUH QRW D WRXULVW $W WKH FKHHVH VKRS RQFH WKH\ NQHZ , ZDV D UHSHDW FXVWRPHU WKH\ RSHQHG XS VWDUWHG WDONLQJ DQG JLYLQJ WKH FKLOGUHQ VDPSOHV WR WU\ 1RZ WKH\ DUH WU\LQJ WR WHDFK PH DERXW FKHHVH ´ $V ZHOO DV JHQHUDO XQIULHQGOLQHVV RQH RI WKH RWKHU JUHDW FDQDUGV DERXW 3DULV LV WKDW WKH PHQ DUH ZHOO UDWKHU SURQH WR ÀLUWDWLRQ ³, KDYH WR VD\ ´ VD\V :DLJKW .HOOHU DIWHU D GLSORPDWLF JODQFH WRZDUGV &KORp¶V JRUJHRXVO\ DFFHQWHG KHDG RI SUHVV ³7KDW WKDW¶V WUXH )UHQFK PHQ DEVROXWHO\ OLYH XS

/RQGRQ VD\V :DLJKW .HOOHU LV WKH DWWLWXGH WR RVWHQWDWLRQ ³+HUH LW LV VHHQ DV UHDOO\ YXOJDU WR VKRZ \RXU ZHDOWK 3HRSOH GRQ¶W ÀDVK WKHLU IXUV RU ZHDU D ORW RI GLDPRQGV ± WKH\ SUHIHU JROG ,W¶V WRQHG GRZQ DQG YHU\ FKLF 7KH ZRPHQ KHUH IRFXV RQ WKH TXDOLW\ RI ZKDW WKH\ DUH EX\LQJ 7KH\ ZDQW LWHPV WKDW DUH RQ WKH YHU\ EHVW OHYHO ´ 7KLV DQWL EOLQJ DHVWKHWLF LV D OLWWOH LURQLF JLYHQ WKDW VRPH RI 3DULV¶ PRVW IDPRXV KRXVHV QRZ VHOO D YLVLRQ RI XOWUD FRQVSLFXRXV FRQVXPSWLRQ DURXQG WKH ZRUOG &KORp WKRXJK WHQGV WR EH DQ H[FHSWLRQ ³,W¶V WKDW VHQVH RI HDVH \RX PHQWLRQ ´ VD\V :DLJKW .HOOHU ³DQG , WU\ DQG

‘What’s important is clothes that let you be you’ WR WKHLU UHSXWDWLRQ ´ ³,W LV ´ LQWHUMHFWV WKH SUHVV ṘFHU ³DOO DERXW WKH ORRN LQ WKHLU H\H ´ ³<HV ´ DJUHHV :DLJKW .HOOHU ³7KDW ORRN DQG KRZ IRU LQVWDQFH LQ WKH EXWFKHU¶V WKH\ VD\ µ/HW PH VKRZ \RX WKLV RQH ± LW¶V YHU\ VSHFLDO¶ ,W¶V YHU\ FKDUPLQJ ´ $SDUW IURP WKH HQGOHVVO\ KRSHIXO PDVFXOLQH SLWFKLQJ DQRWKHU GL̆HUHQFH EHWZHHQ 3DULV DQG - 73 -

FUHDWH WKDW WKURXJK OLJKWQHVV 7KDW FDQ EH KDUG WR GR ZKLOH DOVR UHPDLQLQJ PRGHUQ DV VR PXFK LQ UHFHQW IDVKLRQ KDV EHHQ DERXW ERQGLQJ VWL̆QHVV DQG VWUXFWXUH 6R PDLQWDLQLQJ WKH FRUH RI WKH KRXVH LGHQWLW\ WKH VRIWQHVV DQG ÀXLGLW\ ZKLOH LPSRVLQJ D VHQVH RI PRGHUQLW\ LV D UHDO FKDOOHQJH $QG D ORW RI LW LV DERXW WKH ULJKW IDEULFV ´ :DLJKW .HOOHU ¿UVW OHDUQW DERXW

‘French women always choose quality over quantity’ fabrics, and the complicated business of sourcing them, as a girl growing up in Birmingham. “I used to go to the old rag market with my mother, who would make clothes for the family and things for the house. It was a huge warehouse space ÂżOOHG ZLWK WKHVH OLWWOH VWDOOV 6KH was careful about what she bought and we always calculated what we would buy and what we would use it for beforehand.â€? Her degree at the Royal College of Art and formative years working for Calvin Klein in New York and Pringle in London apart; this sounds like a perfect training for the head of a house as enormous as ChloĂŠ. “I suppose it ZDV YHU\ LQĂ€XHQWLDO $IWHU D ZKLOH LW felt natural, and I have always loved looking at fabrics.â€? This is one of Waight Keller’s chief TXDOLÂżFDWLRQV DW &KORp %HFDXVH DW ÂżUVW VLJKW D FODVVLF &KORp RXWÂżW

cotton and denim that, as you wear it, it ages and starts to tell the story of your life.â€? The breezy, bohemian collection featured pretty broderie DQJODLVH DQG SDVWHO FKL̆RQ GUHVVHV while butter soft suede shirt-jackets, convertible twill blazers and denim worked into cropped straight-leg jeans and skirts lent an urban edge. 6KH GHGLFDWHG WKH FROOHFWLRQ to the fashion house’s Egyptianborn founder Gaby Aghion – “an incredible forceâ€? – who passed away, aged 93, at her Paris home just GD\V EHIRUH WKH 6HSWHPEHU VKRZ Born in 1921 to a wealthy family of intellectuals, Aghion arrived in Paris LQ 6KH FR IRXQGHG &KORp VHYHQ years later with business partner Jacques Lenoir, introducing lighter and more free-spirited designs at a time when French fashion was GRPLQDWHG E\ WKH UHÂżQHG IHPLQLQLW\ of Dior’s New Look. - 74 -

Despite her outsider status, Aghion went on to embody the chic Parisian femininity that Waight Keller continues to interpret so H̆RUWOHVVO\ WRGD\ Âł,WÂśV LQWHUHVWLQJ because you really feel a cultural GL̆HUHQFH ZKHQ \RX JR WR WKH Middle East, and in a way, maybe I have a sense now of what Gaby went through when she moved from Egypt to Paris,â€? Waight Keller told Interview magazine in 2013. “There’s D PDVVLYH FXOWXUDO GL̆HUHQFH , FDQ imagine how she must have felt like an outsider. And then to create something that was particularly for Parisian women and to become iconic for Paris is quite an amazing feat.â€? When it comes to her own design muses, Waight Keller looks to women who ooze individuality. “Male designers often say their clothes make women feel powerful RU FRQÂżGHQW %XW IRU PH WKDWÂśV QRW what it’s about — what’s important is clothes that let you be ‘You’. That’s WKH XOWLPDWH ORRN 6R , DGPLUH Katharine Hepburn — she was very ‘Her’ — Marlene Dietrich and Coco Chanel all very much,â€? she says. In terms of her own style, Waight Keller says her get-up-and-go 3DULVLHQQH RXWÂżW LV ÂłD FUHSH GH FKLQH blouse, that’s an absolute French standby; then, being at ChloĂŠ, a soft pair of pants with volumeâ€?. The three pairs of shoes she would take with her on a desert island are equally FODVVLF Âł, ZRXOG GHÂżQLWHO\ VD\ D ChloĂŠ wedge sandal — it is one of those any time, any place shoes. And a pair of Manolos: I’ve been a huge fan for years. I have a lizard pair that I love; slingbacks, cream, with that QDWXUDO SDWWHUQ $QG ÂżQDOO\ D SDLU of boots, bikers or what I’m wearing today — Chelsea boots,â€? she says. And her most cherished piece of jewellery? “There are some bracelets that I often wear, including this Hermès one I bought a few years ago. And my watch, a Cartier men’s ZDWFK , ZDLWHG D ORQJ WLPH WR ÂżQG LW and I know I’ll wear it forever then SDVV LW RQ ´ VKH VD\V 6SRNHQ OLNH D true Parisienne.

Words: Luke Leitch. Additional copy by Lara Brunt

– perhaps a beige crepe blouse ZLWK D GHOLFDWHO\ Ă€DWWHULQJ SOHDWHG skirt – does not semaphore its expensiveness. “Well, that is another thing about the French. They don’t do the high street trend – it’s like, ‘Oh, yes, that is very London.’ Instead French women are very particular about what they buy, and they always choose quality over quantity for sure. They prefer very, very good fabrics in everyday staples. That’s why they always look so chic – it looks like just a skirt and a top, but the fabric and the colour elevate it.â€? This, agrees Waight Keller, is about a rejection of vulgarity, and a preference for the eternal over the ephemeral. That’s a tough message to transmit in fashion, which tends to focus on the short-term over the long game. But transmitting it she is. Backstage at her spring/summer 2015 collection, Waight Keller said her focus was on fabrics that tell a VWRU\ ÂłODFHV WKDW KDG Ă€RZHUV DQG birds, and the idea of utilitarian

- 75 -

As the official sponsor of this month’s Dubai International Film Festival, IWC Schaffhausen reveals its latest celluloid inspired photoshoot with legendary photographer Peter Lindbergh, who captured this constellation of stars for the launch of the brand’s Portofino Midsize collection. AIR heads behind the scenes...

- 76 -

,:& %UDQG $PEDVVDGRUV DFWUHVVHV (PLO\ %OXQW =KRX ;XQ DQG &DWH %ODQFKHWW 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

f this months

1.

IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt, Zhou Xun and Cate Blanchett, 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

2.

3.

- 78 ,:& %UDQG $PEDVVDGRUV DFWRUV &KULVWRSK :DOW] DQG (ZDQ 0F*UHJRU 3RUWR¿QR ,WDO\ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

IWC Brand Ambassadors actresses Emily Blunt and Zhou ;XQ 0D\ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+ ‹ 3HWHU /,1'%(5*+

4.

1. Dressed in elegant black tuxedos, Cate Blanchett, Emily Blunt and Zhou Xun pose on the terrace of the Splendido, a grande dame which lists Ava Gardner and Elizabeth Taylor as former guests.

2. The village has lent its name to the Portofino line since its launch in 1984. Here, Christoph Waltz and Ewan McGregor sip espresso at a coffee bar where time appears to have stood still for decades.

3. Australian actress Cate 4. La Cervara, an ancient abbey which is the main Blanchett, Brit-actress location for the shoot Emily Blunt and China’s and Peter Lindbergh’s Zhou Xun take to the control centre for three Mediterranean on board days, sees the stars a classic Riva boat, meander around its before returning to grounds during the the picturesque Italian course of the shoot. harbour town.

- 79 -

MOTORING

By Invitation

ONLY

Luxury carmakers are making sure some of their models are ultraexclusive by only producing limited amounts, often hand-picking the buyers. Here are four of this year’s finest unveilings

- 80 -

Jaguar “Lightweightâ€? E-Type Earlier this year, Jaguar shocked the motoring world when it revealed it was beginning work on six brand-new E-types – arguably the most iconic car ever built. The six “Lightweightâ€? Jaguars are made from chassis numbers thought to have been lost from the original run of 18 of the racing models. Jaguar has decided to build these six cars, which will cost over US$1.5 million HDFK WR WKH H[DFW VSHFLÂżFDWLRQV RI the last models built in 1963. This has required a painstaking search for materials and even a reversal of some factory processes to make the new models as authentic as possible. “Notableâ€? Jaguar collectors have already ordered all six cars, and the lucky half-dozen will take delivery of their museum pieces over the next 18 months.

Rarity Rating: 5/5

- 81 -

MOTORING Bentley Mulsanne Majestic Hailed as the most desirable car ever to roll out of Bentley’s factory in Crewe, England, the Mulsanne Majestic exists in remarkably small QXPEHUV 7KHUH DUH ÂżYH LQ WKH 8$( ÂżYH LQ 4DWDU DQG ÂżYH LQ 6DXGL Arabia. The car itself is an absolute VKRZ VWRSSHU DQG WKH ÂżYH WKDW ZHUH unveiled in Jeddah last month have VHYHUDO SRLQWV RI GL̆HUHQFH IURP WKH standard Mulsanne. Firstly, each of the cars is individually numbered. 6HFRQGO\ WKHUH LV Âł0DMHVWLF´ branding on treadplate plaques and the front wheel arch. Finally, there is its stunning paintwork, a two-tone combination of Peacock Blue and ([WUHPH 6LOYHU 7KHVH DUH SUREDEO\ the most luxurious cars Bentley has ever produced.

Rarity Rating: 3/5

Aston Martin Lagonda The Lagonda marque hasn’t been seen since the late 1970s, but Aston Martin has decided to revive the brand by creating an all-new super saloon known as the Lagonda 7DUDI 7KH DOO FDUERQ ¿EUH ERG\ keeps the weight of the monolithic vehicle down, and the 6.0-litre engine pushes out incredible power – making this saloon comfortably the fastest in the class that it helped create. At the time of writing only 100 of these unique saloons will be made available in the Middle East, although at an exclusive launch event, AIR was told that invitations to purchase have been snapped up so quickly, there is talk of making it available in other regions as well‌

Rarity Rating: 3/5 - 82 -

Ferrari F60America Just 10 of these incredible Ferraris are being produced, in order to celebrate Ferrari’s 60th year in North America. The new car celebrates everything American drivers love – a snorting V12 engine and a soft top – and each of the roadsters is already spoken for. A spokesman for Ferrari tells AIR: “It had to be an extremely limited number, and 10 was the same number as the last true limited series made exclusively for the US, the 1967 275 GTS4 NART Spider.” The lucky 10 buyers, who were approached personally by Ferrari, won’t see their cars until the end of 2015 – but a car like this is certainly worth the wait.

Rarity Rating: 4/5 - 83 -

GASTRONOMY

Korea

Opportunities

Words: RICHARD JENKINS

- 84 -

Judy Joo is the Korean-American chef taking the world by storm. She tells AIR about her new London restaurant, going crazy in Heston’s Fat Duck and being a woman in a man’s world

T

hink of your favourite type of food. Is it Italian, Chinese or perhaps Indian? If you’re from the UK, it’s almost certain that your answer won’t be Korean. This is something that Korean-American chef Judy Joo aims to change when she opens her new restaurant, Jinjuu, in London’s trendy Soho in mid-January. For many reasons, Joo is not your average celebrity chef. As a starter she’s only been in the kitchen for 10 years. Compared to someone like Marco Pierre White, who seems to have been around since the invention of bread, earning your chef whites in 2004 makes you something of a baby. For a main course, in that decade she has found incredible success, the likes of which it takes most chefs dozens of years to accumulate. And for dessert, she’s an absolute riot. During AIR’s interview, Joo has to pause conversations several times to break R̆ LQ ODXJKWHU 2K DQG KHUHÂśV DQ DIWHU GLQQHU PLQW IRU WKH ÂżUVW ÂżYH years of her career, she was a highĂ€\LQJ PDUNHW WUDGHU DQG WKH FORVHVW she got to a kitchen was ordering in expensive food while working late in the boardroom. Âł,ÂśYH GHÂżQLWHO\ KDG WZR OLYHV ´ Joo says. “Growing up on the East Coast of America, you’re very much on a fast-track. I went to an all-girls college, preparatory high school, Ivy League school, majored in HQJLQHHULQJ WKHQ ZHQW LQWR ÂżQDQFHÂŤ

- 85 -

GASTRONOMY I was kind of on this track to, I don’t know, make it big? [laughs]. I did that at Morgan Stanley for about ÂżYH \HDUV %DFN WKHQ PRQH\ JUHZ RQ trees so there was a lot of incentive to work at these places. Everybody was brilliant, ‘Type A’, coming out RI DPD]LQJ VFKRROV $IWHU ÂżYH \HDUV of this I thought, I really don’t love Âż[HG LQFRPH VHFXULWLHV >ODXJKV uproariously]. I really wanted to do VRPHWKLQJ PRUH FUHDWLYH ´ Joo joined the culinary arts at the foot of the ladder – back in the classroom. She recalls: “I met a ORW RI SHRSOH ZKRÂśG VD\ VWX̆ OLNH Âľ, wanted to become a mechanic but , IDLOHG WKDW VFKRRO VR ,ÂśP KHUHÂś ´ Her education also included stints at Saveur magazine. She says: “I was

She also did a stint at Heston %OXPHQWKDOÂśV )DW 'XFN EXW LW wasn’t all inventing new ways to deconstruct the grapefruit and pairing snails with ice cream. Joo says: “Usually when you’re in a kitchen you’re very rarely in test

writing, doing recipe development, working in test kitchens. I really utilised my science and engineering background, because cooking is really science. You’re using these recipes over and over again until it’s absolutely perfect. And it makes D ELJ GL̆HUHQFH LI \RX XVH EXWWHU YHUVXV RLO YHUVXV ODUG WKH Ă€RXU WKH W\SH RI VXJDU \RX XVH Âą LW DOO D̆HFWV the end product. And from there I ended up working for Gordon Ramsay for about two-and-a-half \HDUV ´

you start. And you play all these games, like ‘how many of these can I make in an hour’. As a low OHYHO FKHI WKDWÂśV KRZ LW LV %XW WKHQ when you start making salads and putting things together, it gets more LQWHUHVWLQJ ´ 7KH FKHIÂśV ÂżUVW ELJ UROH ZDV executive chef at London’s Playboy Club - think bunny ears and canapĂŠs. After three-and-a-half years she describes as “the fun IDFWRU´ WKH RSSRUWXQLW\ FDPH WR branch out alone. Joo says: “One of

the patrons [of the Playboy Club] manages football players, and he loved my food. He found my number and said he wanted to see if we could come up with a concept together and that’s what happened. It’s modern .RUHDQ IRRG PDGH LQ D IXQ ZD\ ´

‘I really utilise my science & engineering background’ environments, you’re in production. You’re making the same thing all day long. You’re just hired like slave labour! [laughs] Making thousands and thousands of perfectly shaped diced potatoes and apples, for hours a day. It can drive you crazy, but that’s what you do, and that’s when

- 86 -

The concept is Jinjuu, which aims to bring Korean food to the European market that is tipped to embrace it in a big way. Joo describes the restaurant, saying: Âł7KH JURXQG Ă€RRU FRQFHSW LV EDVHG around the Korean word Anju, which is food that you eat when you drink. It’s kind of snacks, fusion things like mini burgers, dumplings, small plates that you can make a meal out of it. And our main thing is Korean Fried Chicken – people call it the better KFC. Downstairs is more of a dining concept where we have big VKDULQJ SODWWHUV ´ It’s a long way to have come for a woman from the East Coast of America. It would be easy to describe Joo as a pioneer in FRRNLQJ DQG Âą Âł$V D ZRPDQ ´ VKH interjects. “My inspirations are of course Angela Hartnett on this side RI WKH SRQG 6KH ZDV WKH ÂżUVW DQG the only for a really long time. And then in New York, people like April %ORRPÂżHOG 2OLYLD )DONQHU 0HOLVVD Hamilton – there are so many but there needs to be more. It’s taking a while, but it will happen eventually. There are probably parallels in Wall Street. When I was at Morgan Stanley [in the San Francisco ṘFH@ , ZDV WKH RQO\ IHPDOH WKHUH There were secretaries and sales assistants who were women, but I was the only female professional. I think in New York there were three. Out of 500 people. It’s slowly starting to get better, and become D QLFHU HQYLURQPHQW ´ <RX JHW WKH impression that Judy Joo is the kind of woman who can help make that happen – let’s see what the next 10 years bring.

- 87 -

TRAVEL

Magical ST. MORITZ As the Swiss playground celebrates 150 years of winter tourism, AIR takes to its slopes to discover how it became a haven for the rich and famous

- 88 -

W

ith its combination of reliable snowfall, 300-odd days of sunshine a year, opulent hotels and chic boutiques, Switzerland’s original winter wonderland, positioned at 1,856m in the Engadin Valley in the south of the country, has been luring royals, celebrities and well-heeled snow bunnies for 150 years. Yet, according to legend, spending winter in the Swiss valley – so isolated it has its own language, Romansh – all began as the result of a wager. Summer tourism in the Alps was already in full swing when, in autumn 1864, hotelier Johannes Badrutt, owner of the Pension Faller (today’s Kulm Hotel), made a bet with the last of his English guests. “Come back at Christmas and stay until Easter,â€? he urged. “If you don’t ÂżQG 6W 0RULW] DV VXQQ\ LQ ZLQWHU DV LW LV LQ summer, I’ll pay your travel costs. If you do, you can stay as long as you like.â€? The Englishmen could not imagine that ZLQWHU LQ WKH 6ZLVV $OSV FRXOG EH DQ\ GL̆HUHQW to the cold and damp winters back home. Nonetheless, they returned to Upper Engadin in time for the Christmas season and left after Easter, returning to London tanned, relaxed and happy. And, so the story goes, Alpine tourism was born. 7KH %ULWLVK XSSHU FODVVHV Ă€RFNHG WR 6W 0RULW] ZKLOH DULVWRFUDWLF IDQV LQFOXGHG Kaiser Wilhelm II and Tsar Nicholas II. Grand palace hotels were opened and the area quickly became known for winter sports, from ice skating and curling to tobogganing and bobsledding. The natural – and soon notorious – Cresta Run was established in 1864, running from St. 0RULW] WR WKH QHDUE\ WRZQ RI &HOHULQD ZKLOH WKH 6W 0RULW] Âą &HOHULQD 2O\PSLF EREVOHLJK run, the oldest in the world, followed in 1904. Both proved popular with fearless society women, until they were barred from the Cresta Run in 1929 for reasons of decorum. In 1928 the town, by then well known for its H[FOXVLYLW\ ZDV KRVW RI WKH :LQWHU 2O\PSLFV DW ZKLFK WKH ÂżUVW VNL UDFHV ZHUH KHOG DQ honour it received again 20 years later. By the 1930s, the passion for winter sports, and skiing in particular, had spread throughout Switzerland, with 500,000 of the total Swiss population of four million estimated to be hitting the slopes. 2YHU WKH IROORZLQJ GHFDGHV FHOHEULWLHV - 89 -

TRAVEL arrived in droves, from Charlie Chaplin and Alfred Hitchcock to Brigitte Bardot and her husband Gunther Sachs, and even John Lennon. The Aga Khan learned to ski in St. 0RULW] E\ JOLGLQJ RYHU WKH VXUIDFH RI WKH IUR]HQ /DNH 6W 0RULW] ZLWK VNLV RQ KLV IHHW DV GLG the late King Hussein of Jordan. Even Lenin tried his luck on the ice and on the slopes. The 0DKDUDMD RI +\GHUDEDG PHDQZKLOH FKHFNHG in to Suvretta House with 500 trunks and 300 pieces of hand luggage. The exclusive resort has created history in RWKHU ZD\V WRR 6ZLW]HUODQGœV ¿UVW HOHFWULF light shone out in the dining room of the Kulm Hotel in the summer of 1879, while Caspar %DGUXWW -RKDQQHVœV VRQ RSHQHG (XURSHœV ¿UVW palace hotel, Badrutt’s Palace, in 1896. New sports have also been created here, the most recent being kite-sailing on the nearby Lake Silvaplana. Today, the Engadin is Switzerland’s largest ZLQWHU VSRUWV UHJLRQ ¹ DQG 6W 0RULW] LWV FURZQ MHZHO ¹ ZLWK RYHU NP RI SLVWHV DQG PRUH than 220km of cross-country trails. So what has the glamorous resort got in store for its 150th anniversary? The cultural and sporting celebrations begin RQ 'HFHPEHU ZLWK WKH 6W 0RULW] &LW\ 5DFH which will see celebrities, visitors and locals competing against one another at a ski cross event combined with a cross-country skiing circuit through the heart of the village. In keeping with the nostalgic theme, there will be a retro ski day in the nearby village of Sils on January 17, while visitors can experience the thrill of riding the 1.7km 2O\PSLF EREVOHLJK RQ D VOHLJK DQG D more modern one) throughout the season and watch the professionals at work during the bobsleigh and skeleton World Championships from January 12 to 25. In homage to those pioneering British YLVLWRUV IURP \HDUV DJR 6W 0RULW]œV DQQXDO Gourmet Festival will see British-based chefs, including Angela Hartnett and Claude Bosi, in the kitchens of nine hotels in the region. 7KH ¿YH GD\ HYHQW NLFNV R̆ RQ -DQXDU\ DW the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains, with workshops, tastings and gourmet dinners. The inaugural Snow Polo World Cup, PHDQZKLOH ZDV KHOG LQ 6W 0RULW] LQ DQG has become a much-loved annual event. It takes place over the last weekend in January, providing the unique spectacle of polo horses galloping nimbly across the frozen lake. Another annual highlight is White Turf, which - 90 -

WHERE TO STAY Badrutt’s Palace Home to 37 suites, a sprawling wellness centre and the resort’s smartest nightspot. Nobuyuki Matsuhisa will also unveil his latest Matsuhisa restaurant here this month. badruttspalace.com Kulm Hotel Located on the sunny south-facing slope at the end of the village, the Kulm features 15 suites, five restaurants and a US$12.5million spa centre facing Lake St. Moritz that opened last year. kulm.com Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains Also celebrating 150 years, the hotel has 45 suites, four restaurants including Michelinstarred Cà d’Oro, and a 2,800-square-metre spa. kempinski.com

takes place every Sunday in February. The thrilling race meeting dates back to 1907 and includes skijoring races, whereby brave men and women on skis are pulled along at high speed by unmounted horses, and standard horse-racing, albeit on snow. Rally enthusiasts will no doubt be heading to the 12th edition of the legendary WinterRaid from January 14 to 17. Described as “one of the toughest rallies in winterâ€?, it sees teams tackle mountains, wintery passes, ice and snow in vintage vehicles. Those looking for less action-packed pursuits will enjoy performances by the Engadin Symphony Orchestra between Christmas and New Year throughout the region, while Swiss light artist Gerry Hofstetter will treat visitors to a sensory extravaganza featuring light, music, skiers and ÂżUHZRUNV WKURXJKRXW -DQXDU\ DQG )HEUXDU\ 2QH RI WKH ÂżQDO HYHQWV LV WKH 6ORSHVW\OH World Cup from March 13 to 15. The sport, which debuted at this year’s Winter Olympics in Sochi, sees snowboarders travel down a slope dotted with obstacles, including quarterpipes, rails and progressively higher MXPSV $ WKULOOLQJ DQG ÂżWWLQJ ÂżQDOH IRU WKH groundbreaking grande dame of winter sports.

Suvretta House Surrounded by the Suvretta-Corviglia winter sport region two kilometres from St. Moritz, the Suvretta has 10 spacious suites and an acclaimed restaurant. suvrettahouse.ch/en Grand Hotel Kronenhof Standing six kilometres from St. Moritz, this elegant hotel has 46 suites, an aptly named Grand Restaurant, a bowling alley and ultra modern spa and wellness centre. kronenhof.com

- 91 -

PROPERT Y Hollywood Screen Legend’s Exclusive Colorado Estate Colorado, USA Nestled deep within the meadows and forest just 12 minutes from the historic resort town of Telluride, Colorado, this property offers the ultimate retreat for those seeking privacy and scenic beauty. Carefully planned over the course of several years, the warm and inviting main house and story-book guest house offer exceptional design and meticulous craftsmanship throughout. The property’s vast acreage is threaded by a private trail system providing gated access into tens of thousands of acres of surrounding National Forest. Access for private and commercial aircraft is less than 10 minutes from the property’s front gate via Telluride Regional Airport. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$59,000,000

- 104 -

Ultimate Sporting Fly-In Community Idaho, USA This fly-in, fly-out community can be found among the rugged mountains and the Palisades Reservoir in Idaho. Extremely unique in its design – likely the most majestic, airport-based community in the world – The Refuge is a private community within the Alpine Airpark, a spectacular and user-friendly airport with inexpensive fuel and no landing fees. The runway, at 5,664’ elevation, is 6,000 Ft. long and is situated in a convenient east-west orientation – ideal for the prevailing winds. From the 65 acres available at an average of 2+ acres per lot, these home and hangar locations represent a recreational-rich opportunity.

Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 105 -

PROPERT Y

Toro Canyon Park Road California, USA This modern masterpiece by Los Angeles architect Barbara Bestor offers unparalleled views of ocean, islands and mountains in a completely private setting on 160 acres of unspoiled wilderness. Newly constructed and designed for entertaining and relaxation, with custom glass walls that slide away to bring the outdoors in. The centre of the home is a loft-like space, anchored by an open kitchen. On one side, a glass door retracts to reveal a panoramic view of the Santa Barbara coastline, leading into a lush courtyard with fireplace. Inside, there’s an en-suite master bedroom, two additional bedrooms, media room, powder room, and yoga room with private garden. A separate guest house sleeps up to four. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

Price Upon Request - 104 -

Exceptional Location in Greenwich Greenwich, USA Beautiful Georgian estate amid 2.3 private and park-like acres. Exquisite detailing with the finest custom craftsmanship. This home features state-of-the-art technology and grandly scaled interior spaces. Access to a 3,000 Sq.Ft. blue stone terrace embraced by breathtaking, professionally designed landscaping and walled garden with heated pool. A truly magnificent and private estate.

Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$9,475,000

Grand Estate in Premiere Location Greenwich, USA This timeless stone manor is set on 3 acres of manicured property in a prime location in Greenwich, Connecticut. The home features an extraordinary master suite and masterfully crafted guest and family accommodations. The Bilottadesigned kitchen opens to a beautiful family room and office space. Generously scaled entertaining rooms open to terracing and seasonal outdoor area with pool and cabana. Amenities include wine cellar, home spa, fitness facility and home theatre. Dubai Sotheby’s International Realty | sales@dubaisir.com | +971 4 818 4999

US$16,250,000

- 105 -

LIFE LESSONS

WHAT I KNOW NOW Hassan El Houry

CEO of National Aviation Services My journey into aviation began with a lot of hard work and a bit of luck. ,W ZDV GL̇FXOW IRU SHRSOH WR WDNH PH VHULRXVO\ DW ¿UVW ± , ZDV \HDUV ROG SHUKDSV RQH RI WKH \RXQJHVW CEOs in our industry, and with no DYLDWLRQ H[SHULHQFH ZKHQ , ¿UVW WRRN WKH UHLQV , VHOHFWHG D VSHFWDFXODU WHDP DURXQG PH ZRUNHG KDUGHU WKDQ DQ\RQH HOVH , NQRZ LPPHUVHG P\VHOI LQ WKH LQGXVWU\ DQG PDGH VRPH UHDOO\ WRXJK GHFLVLRQV )RUWXQDWHO\ , WKLQN , KDYH RYHUFRPH this challenge. ,Q EXVLQHVV VXFFHVVIXO SHRSOH DUH DPELWLRXV IRFXVHG GULYHQ organised and savvy. They work hard DQG GLOLJHQWO\ WKH\ VSHQG TXDOLW\ WLPH ZLWK IDPLO\ DQG IULHQGV DQG LQYHVW LQ WKHLU PHQWDO DQG SK\VLFDO health. I also believe in constantly setting challenging goals, and so in P\ V , WROG P\VHOI , ZRXOG OLNH WR EH D &(2 EHIRUH , WXUQHG :KHQ LW FRPHV WR LQVSLUDWLRQ PDQ\ SHRSOH LQVSLUH PH ZLWK YDULRXV facets of their lives but there isn’t RQH SHUVRQ ZKR LQVSLUHV PH LQ D FRPSUHKHQVLYH VHQVH , DP VHOI PRWLYDWHG ZKLFK , IHHO LV YHU\ LPSRUWDQW DQG , KDYH QRW \HW PHW VRPHRQH ZKR , ZRXOG OLNH WR HPERG\ LQ DOO DVSHFWV RI WKHLU OLIH ,I , FRXOG JLYH P\ \RXQJHU VHOI RQH SLHFH RI DGYLFH LW ZRXOG EH WR DLP high and do not ever let anyone WHOO \RX VRPHWKLQJ LV LPSRVVLEOH I have a natural bias to action, but , KDYH OHDUQHG RYHU WLPH WR EH PRUH GHOLEHUDWH LQ P\ DFWLRQV DQG UHDFWLRQV ,W FRXQWV WR DFW TXLFNO\ EXW LW LV EHWWHU WR WKLQN VHYHUDO VWHSV ahead before taking action.

- 96 -

Discover Luxury

The largest selection of genuine 19th century French antiques in the region, 19th Century Antiques includes rare furniture, bronzes, paintings, clock sets, and vases of exceptional quality and taste.

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS, BOULEVARD | DUBAI, UAE TEL: +971 4 3887000 FAX: +971 4 3887111 | WWW.19CENTURYANTIQUES.COM

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.