Ones to Watch

It is one of the most anticipated events in the horological world. Every two years, the world’s leading watchmakers create one-of-a-kind timepieces exclusively for Only Watch, a charity auction that raises funds for neuromuscular disease research. The eighth edition of the prestigious auction will take place on Saturday November 9 in Geneva, under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. Ahead of the sale, collectors can view the timepieces at Christie’s salesroom in Dubai International Financial Centre from October 1 to 3. “To own a watch made especially for Only Watch is a privilege and a fantastic reference for collectors,” says Remy Julia, Christie’s regional watch specialist. “Two years ago, when we showcased Only Watch for the first time in Dubai, we could have continued for days. Collectors from various generations were really enthusiastic and some even travelled to the auction in Geneva to bid in person.” The auction was established in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, a former managing director of the Monaco Yacht Show, after his son Paul was diagnosed with Duchene muscular dystrophy.

Previous editions have raised more than US$40 million for much-needed research into the devastating disease, which primarily affects young boys. This year’s sale features 50 timepieces donated by 52 brands, including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille, and collaborations from De Bethune and Urwerk, MB&F and L’Epee 1839. “The watches are all unique and they are all supporting a great cause – that makes them very special and worthwhile collecting,” says Julia. “We really want to surpass US$10 million on November 9.” The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300A-010 in steel – normally available only in white gold – is predicted to cause a sensation. “The potential result is already the topic of many conversations,” Julia says. “It has a gorgeous salmon dial on one side, plus a black ebony one on the other. It’s possibly the world’s only grande sonnerie in steel, and its chimes would be just as unique.” F.P. Journe’s contribution is also expected to fetch one of the highest sums in Geneva. “Offering two time zones as well as sidereal time and the equation of time, this very special piece is one helluva watch,” says Julia.

“There’s also a one-minute tourbillon, annual calendar, zodiac calendar, sunset/sunrise, and more. F.P. Journe typically debuts new complications at the Only Watch auction, so this is definitely one to watch.” The retro Breguet Type 20 is another lot sure to attract attention among bidders. “A tribute to Breguet’s Type 20 Chronograph from the 1950s, this 38.3mm watch comes with a bronze coloured dial and a vintage 13-ligne Valjoux Calibre 235. So it’s not just aesthetically faithful but mechanically, too. This movement is a direct descendent of the 14-ligne Valjoux 222 that Breguet used back then,” Julia explains. Other pieces will be coveted, not only for their originality, but for the unique experiences they come with. The Zenith El Primero A386 Revival is a case in point: the one-of-a-kind white gold timepiece is the only model with a turquoise/bluish subdial – a nod to Only Watch’s colour theme for 2019.

“More important, it comes with a lifetime warranty including service and an invitation to tour the factory,” says Julia. Meanwhile, collaborations by some of most avant-garde names in watchmaking will excite aficionados of contemporary horology. Collectors have so far only seen a sketch of the De Bethune + Urwerk Moon Satellite, so it will undoubtedly attract interest when it is unveiled in Dubai. “This unique timepiece is a complex interaction of mechanisms specific to De Bethune and Urwerk. Just the sheer fact that two brands are working together to support Only Watch is a testimony to the great work and importance Luc Pettavino has gained in the watch world,” says Julia. Fans of inventive table clocks, meanwhile, will enjoy MB&F’s collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée – the eleventh between the two marques. The clock represents the story of Tom, a child struck by illness who goes on an adventure with his friend T-Rex. “The dial is made of Murano glass, with curved hour and minute hands. Tom sits above, holding a smaller sphere of Murano glass,” says Julia. Collectors can view all 50 timepieces at the Dubai event, and Christie’s expects strong interest from the Middle East on auction day. “The passion for collecting unique, modern and vintage watches is very dominant in the region and a Middle Eastern collector will go any mile to secure his or her dream watch,” says Julia.

Founder Luc Pettavino will also be at the roadshow, which kicked off in Monaco last month and will visit ten cities including Paris, London, New York and Singapore. “I am grateful to all the watchmaking groups and independent brands participating in this edition, demonstrating dedication and heart through their creativity and craftmanship,” says Pettavino. “This year’s auction promises to be, once again, record-breaking.” On view from October 1-3 at Christie’s Dubai, onlywatch.com

WORDS: LARA BRUNT