DXB City Expert - October'16

October 2016 The insider’s guide to Dubai’s must-have visitor experiences

Welcome Note

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DXB City Expert

ediTorial Editorial Director John Thatcher Contributing Editor Lara Brunt Sub-Editor Emma Laurence

arT Art Director Andy Knappett Designer Emi Dixon Illustrator Andrew Thorpe

commercial Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Commercial Director Rawan Chehab Business Development Manager Rabih El Turk Sales Manager Lisa Price

ProdUcTion Production Manager Muthu Kumar

A WA R M

To

DUBAI We know it can feel a little overwhelming when you first set foot in Dubai.

How exactly do you explore this ultra-modern metropolis? Where do you start?

We love Dubai and we want to ensure that you feel the same, which is why we decided to create this handy-sized, helpful guide to ease you on your way.

Rather than present you with a long list of recommendations that would take you the duration of your holiday to read, our Dubai-based team of in-the-know writers have cherry-picked the city’s best bits – leaving you free to simply enjoy it.

Inside this guide you’ll find insider knowledge on everything from the best restaurants with a view and tips on where to shop for clothes made by the finest local fashion designers, to the coolest clubs and top-notch family entertainment.

We’ll also tell you which of the many organised tours are the best to take to see all of this city’s ample attractions.

All that remains is for us to wish you the holiday of a lifetime. Go get it…

John ThaTcher Editorial Director DXB City Expert

Cover image: Jumeirah Etihad Towers

by Andrew Thorpe

feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring.

I’m just an ordinary traveller but marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. With people like this, there is only one way you can go—up, up and up!

Kilban

Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & greet services in Dubai and Bahrain.

Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to.

You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain.

Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com

meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service

Contents

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DXB City Expert

The

CONTENTS 5

On ArrivAl All you need to know when you touch down in Dubai.

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SO ThiS iS DubAi A little local knowledge to help ease your way into the city.

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TOp Of The TOurS Let the experts take the strain out of sightseeing.

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Where TO eAT From fine dining and ‘only in Dubai’ eats to family favourites and best budget options, this chapter comes stuffed with our recommendations.

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Where TO ShOp There’s more to Dubai’s shopping scene than merely the world’s biggest mall. Credit cards at the ready…

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WhAT TO DO Underwater, on the water, in the sand and in the snow: there are myriad ways to enjoy yourself in the city. We’ve selected the best.

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Where TO GO The city’s hottest clubs awake from their summerlong siestas this month. We hope you’ve packed your dancing shoes – you’re going to need them.

Produced for dnata Travel by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors contained in DXB City Expert.

NEW EMIRATI RESTAURANT THERE’S A NEW PLACE IN THE OLD TOWN WHERE CULTURE IS STILL ON THE MENU Aseelah at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek invites you to experience Emirati cuisine made with the freshest local ingredients in an authentic Old Dubai location. Book your table inside or on our terrace for a taste of the traditional from a menu featuring a selection of old favourites and modern gourmet interpretations. Shisha is also available.

Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek, Baniyas Road, Dubai

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On Arrival

DXB City Expert

On

ARRIVAL You’re almost there now, but before you head off to your hotel here’s a little something to help you on your way

Leaving The airporT There are ample public taxis available at the airport, though there’s every chance you’ll have to queue to get one.

As you do so, you may notice a line of estate-sized pink-roof taxis. These are exclusively for women and families, and are helmed by female drivers only.

There are also taxis specifically for special-needs travellers – both can be requested from the taxi-line attendant once you’re at the front of the queue.

Your fare will include an airport pickup fee of Dhs25, which is the amount the meter will start from.

Dubai International Airport is also serviced by the Dubai Metro.

However, each passenger is restricted to two pieces of luggage, one of which shouldn’t be bigger than hand luggage.

Trains run approximately every 10 minutes and depart from Terminals 1 and 3 – just follow the signs.

Trains start at 5.50am (5.30am on Thursdays), and stop at midnight (1am on Thursdays and Fridays). But be aware that trains start at only 10am on Fridays. There are just two lines, so it’s easy to work out your route, and you’ll likely find taxis at each station to take you to your specific address.

If you’re intending to hire a car on arrival in Dubai, you’ll find all the major operators are present at the airport.

Chief among them is Hertz, which is

available at both Terminal 1 (+971 4 224 5222) and Terminal 3 (+971 4 220 3013) of Dubai International Airport.

Drivers must be aged 21 or over and be in possession of a valid driving licence from their home country. Remember that driving in Dubai is on the righthand side of the road.

hire a heLping hand from marhaba If you’re reading this before you travel to Dubai, or if you haven’t yet planned your return journey to the airport, it’s well worth checking out the services of Marhaba (+971 4 389 8989, marhabaservices.com).

On arrival, their always-smiling staff greet you as you come off the aircraft, before ferrying you by buggy to passport control and whizzing you past the queues (which can be long) to their dedicated counters and beyond, where a porter will collect your luggage.

Services are tailored to suit individuals, families and those with specific needs.

Fast-tracking through airport procedures is a feature of any return journey you make with Marhaba, too, while you can also book a chauffeur pick-up from anywhere in Dubai and enjoy the hospitality of their airport lounge – and its complimentary food and drink – as you await boarding.

have a word Although English is spoken and understood pretty much everywhere you’ll go in Dubai, it’s polite to try a little Arabic when you show your passport on arrival. If Arabic’s not your native tongue, here are a few helpful words…

Marhaba : Hello Sabah al-khayr : Good morning As-salaam alaikum : Peace be upon you Ma’assalama : Goodbye Minfadlak : Please Shukran : Thank you

geT connecTed Before departing the airport you may wish to buy a sim card that’s designed for visitors to use while in the UAE. It costs Dhs35 and provides you with the Visitor Mobile Line (VML), allowing you to make calls – or text – while in Dubai at a fraction of the cost you’ll pay for roaming. You can buy it from the du shop in the arrivals hall of both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3. Once purchased you can top it up by buying prepaid cards at various convenient locations across the city, including du shops. See du.ae for a list of locations.

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So This Is Dubai

DXB City Expert

show some respect

IS

Dubai is a very warm and welcoming city, but like anywhere else you travel in the world you’ll want to show respect for local sensibilities.

These are a few things to keep in mind while enjoying your holiday…

DU B A I Chapter oNe

You’ve read about it, seen the pictures and marvelled from afar.

Now you’re here. Our inside track will get you up to speed so you can get on with having the holiday of a lifetime

A little bit About this greAt city of ours With a skyline dominated by towering skyscrapers and now-iconic structures like Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, it’s hard to imagine that Dubai was once little more than a fishing village.

The Bani Yas tribe settled next to Dubai Creek in 1833, and the area soon became a hub for fishing, pearling and trading. The discovery of ‘black gold’ in 1966 triggered Dubai’s remarkable transformation into the glittering city of today.

In 1971, Dubai joined with six neighbouring emirates – Abu Dhabi, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Fujairah and (in 1972) Ras al-Khaimah – to form the United Arab Emirates, and this union is celebrated each year on 2 December. Under the late Sheikh Zayed, the first president of the UAE, the country blossomed and has developed into one of the world’s most prosperous, while still remaining true to its rich heritage of Bedouin, Islamic and Emirati cultures.

Today, Dubai is home to over 200 nationalities that are attracted by its opportunities and lifestyle. Such has

been the city’s rapid expansion beyond its Creek origins that residents now commonly refer to ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, with the old part encompassing Dubai Creek and the wider Bur Dubai area in the north of the city, and the new part featuring the strictly modern superstructures – Downtown Dubai, Dubai Marina and all – that spread for miles into the south of the city.

the bAsics, iN No more thAN 140 chArActers The Climate October tends to be very warm and dry in Dubai. Expect average temperatures of 29°C and highs of around 35°C. The Currency The UAE Dirham is what you’ll use.

Notes come in 1,000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5, and their value is pegged at Dhs3.67 = USD1.

The Weekend The UAE’s weekend is Friday/Saturday.

Dubai Metro services start at 10am on Fridays and 5.50am on Saturdays, and run until 1am on weekends.

Be sure to refrain from over-the-top public displays of affection, even when in nightclubs.

Do not succumb to the urge to make rude hand gestures to other people – doing so could land you in hot water.

Dress modestly when outside the confines of your hotel, particularly if you’re heading to a mall, where women shouldn’t leave their shoulders bare.

Taking photos of some government buildings and all military sites is strictly prohibited. Stick to the tourist attractions when you’re choosing a background for selfies.

Don’t drink alcohol, or be seen to be overly intoxicated, outside of licensed premises. Unruly behaviour isn’t tolerated.

Wanderlust FUN • FOOD • FREEDOM

Brunch

Embrace your lust for food and fun.

First you feast and then you party.

AED 395 PER PERSON

Launching Friday, October 7 From 1pm to 4pm

Enjoy a 20% discount on beverages from 4pm to 7pm at the Lust after-party in Square with DJ SoulNinja!

Age policy: 21 and above Garden restaurant, 5th Floor JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

FLAVOURFUL JOURNEYS for the real you

Try something different on your next dining experience See a different side of the city onboard Bateaux Dubai.

Indulge in freshly prepared gourmet cuisine and exquisite beverages, while gently cruising Dubai Creek.

For reservations please call +971 4 814 5553 or email mail@bateauxdubai.com bateauxdubai.com

/bateauxdubai

@bateauxdubai

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DXB City Expert

sheikh ZAyeD roAD

Jumeirah Beach Road, as well as trendy shops, cafés and restaurants at popular new developments such as The Galleria Mall, BoxPark and City Walk. Jumeirah Mosque is another reason to visit.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers guided tours every Saturday to Thursday at 10am (adults, Dhs20; under-12s, free).

So This Is Dubai

Get Your Bearings

Sheikh Zayed Road

Throughout this guide we’ve referenced areas of Dubai, which to the first-time visitor may mean nothing at all. To help, here’s the skinny on the city’s districts you’ll most likely encounter...

DowNtowN DubAi Home to the world’s largest mall, tallest tower and biggest fountain, Dubai’s showpiece city centre is as glitzy as it gets. Lined with palm trees that twinkle with thousands of fairy lights, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard boasts five-star hotels, restaurants, a San Francisco-style tram and a constant flow of supercars.

Another popular spot is Souk Al Bahar (‘market of the sailor’), a waterfront entertainment and dining hub overlooking The Dubai Fountain and Burj Khalifa.

DubAi mAriNA AND Jbr In the south of the city, this buzzing district includes a man-made marina and a forest of skyscrapers that stretch from Sheikh Zayed Road to Jumeirah Beach Residence (JBR). Brimming with hotels and restaurants, there are two beachfront promenades, The Walk and The Beach at JBR, packed with family-friendly eateries. You’ll also find the Marina Mall and the Dubai Tram, which connects to Dubai Metro and the Palm Jumeirah monorail.

bur DubAi AND DeirA Flanking the southern side of Dubai Creek, Bur Dubai is the oldest part of the city. Here you’ll find the majority of the city’s historical sites, including Dubai Museum and Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum House, as well as restored wind-tower houses and a textile souk.

Over the water, Deira is a melting pot of Arab, Asian and African cultures and a great spot for cheap street eats, as well as shopping in the Gold Souk and Spice Souk.

The 8km stretch of the main highway between Business Bay and the World Trade Centre roundabout is popular with tourists, expats and locals alike, thanks to the clutch of five-star hotels including the Fairmont Dubai, The Conrad and H Hotel, which are easily reached by metro (stations line Sheikh Zayed Road). Just past the roundabout is the brilliant Zabeel Park, one of the city’s largest green spaces.

JumeirAh Home to sprawling villas and excellent beaches, this low-rise suburb overlaps with Umm Suqeim (where you’ll find Burj Al Arab and Madinat Jumeirah, an arabesque-inspired hotel, dining and entertainment complex). Jumeirah is known for boutique shopping along

pAlm JumeirAh Even if you’re not staying here, you can still visit the man-made island that’s become a symbol of Dubai.

A monorail runs along the length of the trunk to Atlantis, The Palm, where you can spend the day at Aquaventure Waterpark. Meanwhile, the 11km-long crescent has a string of five-star hotels with restaurants and spas open to non-guests.

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So This Is Dubai

10 of the best ways to enjoy the city

DXB City Expert

The Yellow Boats night tours around Burj Al Arab

best for… suNset sightseeiNg As Halloween approaches, The Yellow Boats (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com) will embark on night tours from 24 to 31 October. Departing daily at 6pm from Dubai Marina, the 90-minute trip will cruise around Palm Jumeirah and Burj Al Arab. Adults, Dhs280; kids, Dhs210

best for… DAy-to-Night pArtyiNg For Mediterranean cuisine, live DJs and dancing on the sand, head to one of the country’s favourite beach clubs, Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE (+971 56 113 3400, bluemarlinibiza-uae.com). It’s open Fridays and Saturdays from 1pm to 11pm, with Saturday brunch packages from Dhs295 per person.

best for… riDiNg epic roller-coAsters Hot on the heels of IMG Worlds of Adventure – the world’s largest indoor theme park, which opened in August – Dubai Parks and Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com) opens on 31 October with nearly 100 rides and attractions across three parks.

Adults, from Dhs240; kids, from Dhs205

best for… bAggiNg A DesigNer bArgAiN After you’re done with the rides at Dubai Parks and Resorts, pop next door to The Outlet Village (+971 4 317 3999, theoutletvillage.ae). Designed like a Tuscan town, there are big discounts on over 125 brands including Tom Ford and Jimmy Choo.

best for… spooktAculAr hAlloweeN fuN Dubai embraces Halloween with gusto, with many restaurants and nightspots hosting themed brunches and fancydress parties. One of the best is The Monster Costume Party with DJ Tim Cheddar at Zero Gravity (+971 4 399 0009, 0-gravity.ae) on 27 October.

best for… buyiNg the lAtest gADgets Score the latest in smartphones, laptops, tablets, wearables, digital cameras and gaming consoles at GITEX Shopper (gitexshopperdubai.com), an annual electronics extravaganza held at Dubai World Trade Centre from 1 to 8 October. Dhs35 per person

best for… A relAxeD AfterNooN teA After wandering around the lanes of the historic Al Fahidi district in Bur Dubai, stop by the Arabian Tea House (+971 4 353 5071, arabianteahouse.co). Choose from around 100 different tea blends and then sip your brew under the shade of palm trees in the pretty courtyard.

best for… A rAiNforest iN the Desert Just opened and home to more than 3,000 plants and animals (including toucans, lizards and a super-cute sloth),

The Green Planet (thegreenplanet dubaicom) is a four-storey exotic jungle inside a bio-dome at City Walk. Adults, Dhs95; kids, Dhs70

best for… sAmpliNg street fooD Explore Dubai’s historic 2nd December Street during the Flavours of Dubai tour with Arabian Adventures (+971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com).

Learn about local culture and sample regional street foods before sitting down to a traditional Emirati meal.

Adults, Dhs399; kids, Dhs300

best for… shoppiNg regioNAl DesigNers Held biannually in April and October, Fashion Forward Dubai showcases the best Middle Eastern designers. Snap up the hottest runway looks at the pop-up shop in Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayettedubai.com) at The Dubai Mall until 24 October.

Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its af filiates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved

SAMPLE THE ESSENCE OF AUTHENTIC THAI CUISINE The Thai Kitchen is renowned for its authentic Thai cuisine presented within three live kitchens - one each for wok, grill and noodles as well as an additional kitchen devoted to the preparation of traditional Thai desserts. Enjoy the award winning Friday Brunch, set in an alfresco environment, whereby an array of dishes are ser ved right to your table on an unlimited basis.

For more infor mation contact +971 4 602 1814 or visit dubai.park.hyatt.com

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So This Is Dubai

What’s on this month

DXB City Expert

Dubai Design Week

From beach parties and ballet to cliff diving and design fairs, there’s something for everyone

4-5 fiNA swimmiNg worlD cup Following on from the excitement of the Rio Olympics, the world’s best swimmers descend on Dubai as part of a series of two-day meets in nine different cities. The action takes place at Hamdan Sports Complex; ones to watch include South Africa’s Chad le Clos. For more information, visit fina.org

4&8 Jose cArrerAs Legendary tenor José Carreras comes to Dubai as part of his last-ever world tour. One of The Three Tenors (alongside Plácido Domingo and Luciano Pavarotti), Carreras has sold 85 million records and is renowned for his interpretations of Verdi and Puccini.

Tickets from Dhs450, dubaiopera.com

7 JAmes morrisoN It’s not just opera and ballet on the bill at the city’s stunning new opera house. British singer-songwriter James Morrison will be in town for one night only, singing hits such as You Give Me Something and Broken Strings, plus songs from his latest top-10 album.

Tickets from Dhs275, dubaiopera.com

7-11 the gruffAlo’s chilD The sequel to Julia Donaldson and Axel Scheffler’s much-loved children’s book The Gruffalo, which has sold over 13 million copies, this magical musical adaptation features songs, laughs and scary fun for children aged three and up. Tickets from Dhs135, ductac.org

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19-22

hussAiN Al JAssmi

stAck

Hailing from the UAE and one of the region’s most popular Arabic singers, Hussain Al Jassmi is set for a hero’s welcome at Dubai Opera. Fusing traditional Khaleeji and modern Arabic beats, the superstar will perform his greatest hits including Bawada’ak and Fegadtek. Tickets from Dhs500, dubaiopera.com

Like LEGO? Then you’ll love STACK, which promises four days of plastic brick-fuelled fun at Skydive Dubai.

The event will feature huge pools filled with thousands of pieces of LEGO, plus massive LEGO models, an art gallery and entertainment for toddlers through to grown-ups. Tickets from Dhs100, ticketmaster.ae

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ANoushkA shANkAr

DxbeAch

With an impeccable musical pedigree – her dad was the late Ravi Shankar and her half-sister is Norah Jones – Anouskha Shankar is one of the best sitar players in the world. She’s set to wow fans with a cutting-edge programme addressing themes of movement, asylum and refugees.

Tickets from Dhs250, dubaiopera.com

Head to Zero Gravity for a mammoth 15-hour beach party headlined by superstar DJ Fatboy Slim. Zero 7’s Sam Hardaker will provide the soundtrack until sunset, followed by MK and Benny Benassi. The action kicks off at midday and goes until 3am, with brunch and poolside packages available.

Tickets from Dhs225, platinumlist.net

So This Is Dubai Fatboy Slim tops the DXBeach lineup

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DXB City Expert

21-22 beJArt bAllet lAusANNe Choreographer Maurice Béjart brings two fabulous shows to Dubai. On 21 October, Ballet For Life draws on the life and music of Freddie Mercury with costumes designed by Versace.

The following evening sees a gala performance of three Béjart classics: Seven Greek Dances, Piaf and Boléro.

Tickets from Dhs350, dubaiopera.com

24-29 DubAi DesigN week Dubai embraces its creative side during this annual, city-wide celebration of all things design.

There are more than 100 free events taking place, covering everything from interiors and architecture to futuristic furniture design and the latest in urban spaces. For the full programme, visit dubaidesignweek.ae

27-29 popcoN Aiming to be the biggest pop-culture festival on the planet, the inaugural PopCon will combine music, movies, comics, anime and fashion in a purposebuilt complex at Dubai Outlet Mall.

The highlight will be the Halloweenthemed Fiesta De Los Muertos on 28 October, starring Major Lazer and All Saints. Find out more at 117live.com

28 reD bull cliff DiviNg fiNAl The cream of the cliff-diving crop will battle it out at the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series final. The spectacular event will see 16 daredevils dive off of the seven-storey Pier 7 building in Dubai Marina, hitting the water at speeds of 85km/h just three seconds later. The action starts at 8pm. Find out more at redbullcliffdiving.com For more events happening this month, visit dubaicalendar.ae

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So This Is Dubai

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DXB City Expert

An Insight Into Emirati Culture The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) was set up in 1998 to realise the vision of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, vice-president and prime minister of the UAE and ruler of Dubai, who sought to educate expats and visitors in the traditions and customs of the UAE. To that end, SMCCU seeks to answer visitors’ questions about Emirati culture, its religion, politics and customs, and does so through its policy of ‘open doors/ open minds’, meaning that no question is considered too silly or offensive. In short, it’s a must-visit for tourists.

In this series of question-and-answer sessions we’re conducting with SMCCU, we chat to Dahlia and Abdullah, two of the centre’s guides, to provide you with an insight into some aspects of local culture.

whAt Are the key elemeNts of NAtioNAl Dress for meN AND why Do they weAr white?

Abdullah: Men wear a kandura [long cotton tunic], normally with open-toe leather sandals. We’re always asked, “How do you keep your kandura so clean?” And the answer is we have a washing machine. But people expect an extreme answer so we tell them we have four wives to do our laundry.

The kandura wasn’t white until we got money and had washing machines; before that, we used to dip the material in coffee because white doesn’t provide camouflage in the desert.

We also wear a ghutrah [headdress], which was originally used to cover the face from the harsh desert environment. There are different ways to tie the ghutrah, or you’ll also see the igal [black rope] that sits on top of the ghutrah. It looks like handcuffs and was originally used around the front feet of the camel so the animal couldn’t walk off. Rather than carry the igal, a smart Bedouin just put it on his head.

whAt Are the key elemeNts of NAtioNAl Dress for womeN AND why Do they weAr blAck? Dahlia: Women wear a long black abaya [loose coat] over their clothes and we also cover our hair with a hijab [headscarf] for cultural purposes.

This way of dressing was originally influenced by the environment – to protect from sand, sun and bugs – and in the old days, it had nothing to do with modesty or religion.

Our traditional dress is very colourful; it’s a long dress with embroidery. But in the 1950s, there was a mourning period in Iran and Iraq so women were wearing black. Black was traded in the Gulf and women loved it because they could wear a black wrap over their colourful dresses, protecting them from fading in the sun and dirt.

We do have face covers such as the burqa, which is a leather mask worn over the brow and nose. It’s supposed to make you look like you have one eyebrow – a sign of Bedouin beauty in the old days – and make the bridge of your nose look straight. The flat shape of the eyeholes is supposed to make your eyes look bigger and the mask covers your teeth because the fewer teeth you had, the older you appeared. On the inside, the mask was rubbed with indigo that would exfoliate the skin and keep it light coloured.

The updated version is the niqab [veil] and the original purpose was practicality because one piece covers the hair and the second piece covers the nose and mouth.

whAt Are some typicAl emirAti Dishes thAt visitors shoulD try iN DubAi? Dahlia: Machboos is our most famous dish, which is rice that is pressed with meat like chicken or lamb, or it could even be fish. Maleh, a very heavily salted fish, was a staple food in the

old days and is still eaten today, and saloona, which is like a stew and typically goes with white rice, is also very popular.

Ten years ago it would have been more difficult for tourists to find Emirati food because usually we eat in very large groups and it’s hard to take our recipes and cook for two people. But now you can go to a restaurant serving Emirati cuisine such as Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant.com) or Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310), which serve really great traditional Emirati food.

cAN you explAiN the sigNificANce of coffee AND DAtes iN locAl culture?

Dahlia: Traditionally, in the old days we honoured you by serving you Arabic coffee, or gahwa. Gahwa is any drink that changes the way you feel, and wine was actually part of Bedouin culture before the concept of coffee was invented. We switched to coffee when Islam was revealed around 1,400 years ago. In Islam, it says no intoxicants are allowed, so we got rid of wine and switched to a different kind of gahwa – coffee.

We serve dates with Arabic coffee to balance out the bitter taste, and it tastes very different to what you get at Starbucks. We add saffron to give the coffee a darker colour and to relax you – that’s why we don’t add sugar – and cardamom to settle your stomach.

The date palm was called the ‘tree of life’ because basically it gave us life in the old days, in that we could build our houses from palm trees and survive for up to two months just by eating dates. So dates were a very important part of Bedouin life. Dates help with digestion and have a lot of vitamins, which were key in the old days. Scientists have actually called them ‘the complete food’.

So This Is Dubai

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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Top OF THE

TOURS Chapter T WO

Bags unpacked, sunblock slathered on, it’s time to get out and see what this city is all about. But with its climate dictating a dearth of paved walkways, Dubai isn’t a city that you can easily explore on foot.

Luckily, our friends at Arabian Adventures and City Sightseeing have just the answer

DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

mOrning dune drive WiTH FAT BiKing There’s no better time to enjoy the magnificence of the desert than during the early hours. Explore the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve in a 4x4 and then try fat biking – so called because the bikes have threeinch-wide tyres that make it easier to cycle on the sand – as well as sandboarding and camel riding.

HigHLigHTS:

• Morning dune drive in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve • Fat-bike desert cycling. No minimum fitness required (weather permitting) • Sandboarding (weather permitting) • Picnic breakfast in the desert • Opportunity to spot Arabian wildlife dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily

(half day, morning only) WHAT’S incLuded: Food and soft

drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Operates yearround; modest dress and sports shoes are recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation pricing: Adult, Dhs285 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

eAST cOAST TOur Explore the dramatic canyons, sleepy villages and date-palm oases of the UAE’s east coast during a fullday tour. Shop for local pottery, crafts and carpets at the Friday Market, open daily; see the historic Al Bidyah Mosque, the oldest (and smallest) mosque in the United Arab Emirates; stop for lunch and take a dip in the beautiful ocean; and climb the towers and ramparts of the 16th-century Fujairah Fort.

HigHLigHTS:

• Visit to a local market • Sightseeing stops at Al Bidyah Mosque and Fujairah Fort • Opportunity to swim in the ocean • Drive through canyon landscapes • Scenic photo opportunities dAyS OF OperATiOn: Monday,

Wednesday and Friday (full day) WHAT’S incLuded: Hotel transfers;

guided tour gOOd TO KnOW: Operates year-round;

modest dress is recommended pricing: Dhs225 per person

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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DXB City Expert

Top Of The Tours

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DXB City Expert

OvernigHT SAFAri Spend the night in a Bedouin camp accompanied by a million stars. Explore the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve by 4x4 and board a ‘ship of the desert’; pull up a cushion in the majlis and feast on grilled meats, fresh salads and Arabic sweets around the campfire; then retire to your comfortable tent. Awake to the smell of freshly brewed Arabic coffee and a piping-hot breakfast, then take a morning desert drive and ride a fat bike through the dunes.

HigHLigHTS:

• Afternoon and morning dune driving • Opportunity to spot wildlife • Overnight ‘glamping’ with bathroom facilities • Dinner with select beverages • Cooked breakfast • Camel rides and fat biking • Falcon viewing dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily (overnight) WHAT’S incLuded: Food, soft drinks

and beverages; guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Towels and linen provided; permanent showers and toilets on-site; modest dress is recommended; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation pricing: Dhs995 per person To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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TrAdiTiOnAL duBAi ciT y TOur While the modern city has only existed for little more than 40 years, Dubai has a rich history that blends Bedouin, Persian, Islamic and Emirati culture and traditions. This tour explores the intriguing old quarter of Al Fahidi, with its wind towers and historic fort, as well as the bustling Creek area and exotic souks.

HigHLigHTS:

• Photo stop close to Burj Al Arab • Photo stop at Jumeirah Mosque • Drive by Zabeel Palace • Walk through Al Fahidi Cultural Neighbourhood • Visit to Dubai Museum • Traditional abra crossing over Dubai Creek • Walk through the Spice and Gold Souks dAyS OF OperATiOn: Twice daily (half day,

morning/afternoon; Friday, afternoon only) WHAT’S incLuded: Guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Modest clothing and walking

shoes are recommended LAnguAgeS: English and German OTHer LAnguAgeS: Japanese tours operate daily; French and Italian tours, Sunday and Wednesday afternoons; Russian tours, Saturday mornings and Tuesday afternoons; Mandarin tours, Monday and Thursday mornings; Portuguese and Spanish tours operate on Monday and Thursday and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top pricing: English/German, French/Italian and Russian tours: Adult, Dhs165; child, Dhs110.

Japanese tours: Adult, Dhs180; child, Dhs140.

Mandarin tours: Adult, Dhs175; child, Dhs110.

Portuguese/Spanish tours (including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket): Adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs395 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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ciT y OF LigHTS TOur Watch Dubai transform into a sparkling city of lights during this evening City Sightseeing bus tour.

The Creek Route takes in the enchanting lights of Dubai Creek and the neon-lit commercial hubs of Deira and Bur Dubai, the oldest parts of the city, before heading into the heart of ‘new’ Dubai.

Meanwhile, the Contemporary Route showcases the city’s most strikingly illuminated modern buildings, including the glittering Burj Khalifa, Dubai Marina and the distinctive silhouette of Atlantis, The Palm.

HigHLigHTS:

• Two sightseeing routes showcasing Dubai by night • See all the big sights including Burj Khalifa and Atlantis, The Palm • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily, 6pm-10pm WHAT’S incLuded: Hop-on, hop-off access

to all City Sightseeing buses on two routes for three hours gOOd TO KnOW: Tour is free when purchasing a 24hr, 48hr or 72hr City Sightseeing Dubai ticket; both routes are included in the ticket price and there is enough time to do both LAnguAgeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian pricing: Adult, Dhs145; child, Dhs75; family (two adults, two children), Dhs365 To book, call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224), email info@cs-dubai.com or visit citysightseeing-dubai.com

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ciT y SigHTSeeing TOur Enjoy stress-free sightseeing during a hop-on, hop-off bus tour with City Sightseeing, the world’s leading open-top-bus tour operator. There are four colour-coded routes showing you all of the most popular attractions. Step back in time in the old quarters of the city, wander among the vibrant souks, marvel at gleaming skyscrapers and admire the beautiful coastline and marina. With over 44 bus stops across the city and countless photo opportunities, it’s the easiest way to see Dubai.

HigHLigHTS:

• All four sightseeing routes • Audio commentary in 13 languages • Complimentary water • Entry to a number of museums and attractions (see below) dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily. Day tour:

9am-5.30pm; night tour: 6pm-10pm WHAT’S incLuded: The 24hr ticket includes:

City of Lights night tour; Arabian dhow cruise; RTA water taxi (abra); entry to Dubai Museum, Sheikh Sayeed Al Maktoum House and five other museums; Show & Save shopping and dining discounts. The 48hr and 72hr tickets also include: entry to Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo; City Sightseeing Sharjah and Ajman (shuttle bus to Sharjah available on certain days, check with driver) gOOd TO KnOW: Before your 24hr ticket has expired, you can upgrade to a 48hr ticket for an extra Dhs55 LAnguAgeS: English, Arabic, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, French, Hindi, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish and Persian pricing: 24hr ticket: Adult, Dhs240; child (aged 5-15), Dhs100; family (two adults, two children), Dhs580. 48hr ticket: Adult, Dhs295; child, Dhs130; family, Dhs720. 72hr ticket: Adult, Dhs340; child, Dhs170; family, Dhs850 To book, call 800-CSDUBAI (800 273 8224), email info@cs-dubai.com or visit citysightseeing-dubai.com

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ABu dHABi ciT y TOur The captivating capital of the UAE makes a great day trip from Dubai.

Stop for refreshments at Abu Dhabi’s entertainment hot spot, Yas Island, before lunch at the emirate’s labelloaded Marina Mall. Afterwards you’ll drive past the extravagant Emirates Palace hotel, then tour the majestic Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, an architectural icon that can accommodate over 40,000 worshippers.

HigHLigHTS:

• Refreshment stop on Yas Island, close to the Yas Marina F1 Circuit • Lunch stop at Marina Mall (lunch is not included due to the variety of options available) • Drive along the Abu Dhabi Corniche • Drive past the Emirates Palace hotel • Tour of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque dAyS OF OperATiOn: Monday,

Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday (full day) WHAT’S incLuded: Fully guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Very modest dress is recommended; departs from Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman and Abu Dhabi (the latter is a half-day tour, available on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, and excludes Yas Island) pricing : Adult, Dhs255; child, Dhs150 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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SundOWner dune dinner SAFAri When it comes to the quintessential desert experience, this bestselling tour is hard to beat. Venture into the enigmatic Arabian desert and watch the sun set over endless dunes, enjoy an Arabic feast under the stars at a traditional Bedouin-style camp, and sample desert traditions with camel riding and henna painting.

HigHLigHTS:

• Dune driving through the desert • Sunset photo stop in the dunes • Arabic-style three-course buffet with unlimited hops and grape beverages • Camel rides, falcon viewing, sandboarding, henna painting and aromatic shisha • Belly-dancing performance • Stargazing • All inclusive – no hidden costs • Optional camel-milk chocolates and photos are available for purchase • A Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari and City Sightseeing combo ticket is available OpTiOnAL upgrAdeS: Book a private

4x4 vehicle or add a sandboarding experience before the Sundowner Dune Dinner Safari dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily (late afternoon until evening) WHAT’S incLuded: Food, soft drinks and beverages; guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Operates year-round; a portion of your fee goes towards supporting local conservation pricing: Adult, Dhs375; child (aged 5-11), Dhs300 To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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deSerT dune BuggieS Those looking for the ultimate off-road experience will love this exhilarating adventure tour. After leaving Dubai in the morning or afternoon, you’ll head into the empty desert where the off-road dune buggies will be waiting.

Then it’s a roller-coaster of a ride over the dunes in the fully automatic fourseater vehicles that were built for fun.

HigHLigHTS:

• Fully guided tour along the dunes • Driving and safety instruction provided • All dune buggies are four-wheeldrive, fully automatic with seat belts, roll cages and off-road suspension • Driver- and passenger-experience options are available • Shared or private buggy options • Fantastic desert photo opportunities dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily (half day, morning/afternoon) WHAT’S incLuded: Soft drinks; guided tour; hotel transfers gOOd TO KnOW: Sports shoes are recommended; operates year-round; drivers must be aged 18 or over and carry a valid UAE or international driver’s licence; passengers must be aged six or over pricing: 30 minutes’ driving time (sharing), Dhs695 per person. Passenger (sharing), Dhs300 per person. Private buggy (for up to four people), Dhs1,500

To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

Top Of The Tours

'neW' duBAi ciT y TOur With its man-made islands, audacious architecture and futuristic skyline, Dubai has more than its fair share of iconic landmarks, and you can tick them off your list during this tour. Ride the monorail to Atlantis, The Palm, explore the buzzing Dubai Marina area, window-shop at The Dubai Mall and admire the view from the world’s tallest tower.

HigHLigHTS:

• Visit to The Lost Chambers Aquarium at Atlantis, The Palm • One-way ride on The Palm Jumeirah monorail • Drive through Dubai Marina and the Jumeirah Beach Residence area • Afternoon visit to The Dubai Mall • Visit to Burj Khalifa (with option to include the observation-deck ticket) • Free pick-up; tour ends at The Dubai Mall dAyS OF OperATiOn: Daily (half day, morning;

Wednesday and Friday, evening) WHAT’S incLuded: Fully guided tour gOOd TO KnOW: Operates year-round;

modest dress is recommended LAnguAgeS: English and German OTHer LAnguAgeS: French/Italian and Russian tours operate on Monday and Thursday mornings. Portuguese and Spanish tours operate on Mondays and Thursdays and comprise a full-day tour of ‘old’ and ‘new’ Dubai, including Burj Khalifa, At The Top pricing: English/German; French/Italian and Russian tours: Adult, Dhs225; child, Dhs175.

(Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket: adult, Dhs350; child, Dhs300.) Portuguese/ Spanish tours: Adult, Dhs395; child, Dhs320.

(Including At The Top, Burj Khalifa ticket: adult, Dhs495; child, Dhs395) To book this tour, call Arabian Adventures on +971 4 303 4992 or visit arabian-adventures.com

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Where To Eat

DXB City Expert

Chapter THREE

Eat

Dubai’s cultural diversity is reflected in its culinary mosaic of fantastic restaurants – from the best Indian food this side of the subcontinent to sleek Japanese eateries and authentic Arabic mezze. It’s little wonder that world-renowned chefs are falling over themselves to open venues in the city. There is something for every taste in Dubai, so tuck in

wHaT’s nEw in Town?

Dubai’s ever-advancing gastro scene sees a raft of new restaurants opening each month. Here’s our pick of those just opened…

The city’s newest precinct, Al Habtoor City, near Business Bay, is really taking shape with the opening of The St. Regis Dubai and W Dubai (The Westin is in the final stages of construction). ZOCO (zocodubai.com) is one of the first restaurants to open in The Atrium, a five-storey dining hub in the centre of the three hotels that will eventually have seven restaurants and bars. With resident DJs and colourful, industrial-edged décor, ZOCO serves up soulful Mexican dishes from head chef Jimmy Rojas in hip surrounds.

With possibly the best surname ever, Nathan Outlaw is the latest celebrity chef to land in Dubai. The Michelin-starred Brit is taking over the reins as chef patron at Al Mahara, the once-famed seafood restaurant at Burj Al Arab, renowned for its stunning floor-to-ceiling aquarium. Aptly named Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara (+971 4 301 7600, jumeirah.com), the menu at the new-look restaurant takes inspiration from Outlaw’s eateries in Cornwall and London, with signature dishes such as lobster risotto, crispy oysters and caviar, and the very British dessert sticky toffee pudding (Outlaw got the recipe from his daughter).

Over at Grosvenor House Hotel, Colin Clague – one of the region’s most respected chefs – is working

his magic at Anatolian eatery Rüya (+971 4 399 9123, ruyadubai.com).

Turkish for ‘dream’, the restaurant has an open kitchen with a dramatic freestanding oven. Infused with caramelised and charcoal flavours, cağ kebabı (marinated lamb kebab) is the pick of the menu.

Also exciting foodies this month is the arrival of Muchachas Mexican Cantina (+971 4 327 5878, muchachasdubai.com), from the team behind some of Dubai’s coolest eateries including Tom&Serg and Brunswick Sports Club. Tucked away inside the Holiday Inn Express near Safa Park, the licensed restaurant dishes up quesadillas, tacos, sopes, ceviches and more. Our pick? The spiced sea bass tacos.

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abouT THis CHapTER Where possible we’ve included a website, should you wish to look at menus and prices before heading out. And, of course, a phone number if you want to book ahead.

While only including those places we know and recommend, we’ve also included a range of options price-wise, from restaurants that will cause your bank manager’s heart to skip a beat to the too cheap to be true – and all that falls in-between.

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Where To Eat

a TRuE TasTE oF THE EmiRaTEs Considering all the many colourful cuisines Dubai has to offer, it might come as a surprise that good Emirati food is not so easy to come by.

However, slowly but surely more and more authentic Emirati restaurants are cropping up across town.

An enduring favourite is Al Fanar (+971 4 232 9966, alfanarrestaurant. com), located along Canal Walk in Festival City. You can dine outside on floor cushions in the traditional majlis or at a table in the central courtyard area, which looks like a traditional Emirati home. The food is fresh and hearty with dishes such as chicken machboos, grilled shaari fish and jesheed (baby shark with onions and punchy spices).

Another place that has started to pull in its fair share of local Emiratis (always a good sign) is Al Barza (+971 4 343 5310) on Jumeirah Beach Road.

The setting is a modern take on the traditional architecture of the region, but the food is undeniably authentic – here you can try camel meat, at its best in a burger.

Camel’s also on the menu at Aseelah (+971 4 205 7333, radissonblu.com/ hotel-dubaideiracreek) in the Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek. In addition to traditional staples (like samak, a local fish in gravy served with date rice) are dishes made using local ingredients (including camel stew and Arabian lobster).

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (+971 4 353 6666, cultures.ae) offers interactive ‘cultural meals’ – so named because guests are encouraged to ask questions on anything that relates to the Emirati culture – prepared by local chefs in order to preserve the traditions and customs of the Bedouin culture.

wiDER (anD wonDERFul) aRabiC While Emirati food may be thin on the ground, wider Arabic certainly isn’t. Famed Lebanese import Em Sherif (+971 4 424 3000, emsherif. com), which you’ll find at ground

pREvious pagE: Garden.

THis pagE: Bombay Brasserie. nExT pagEs, FRom lEFT: Thiptara; JW’s Steakhouse

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level of The Address Downtown Dubai, offers superb views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain to add to a fixed-price dinner menu (Dhs320), which sees hot and cold mezzes, mains of tender, charcoalgrilled meats, and desserts arrive at your table in a near-endless flow.

Ayamna (+971 4 426 1166, atlantis thepalm.com) is another top choice for Lebanese food in a classy setting.

Interiors are opulent and airy, with a grand staircase, beautiful black and white tiles and an open kitchen, while the menu includes both traditional and more contemporary dishes such as shrimp kunafa – delicious za’atarmarinated prawns wrapped in kunafa dough – and a rich date pudding with salted-caramel sauce.

Also a hit with Dubai’s sizeable Lebanese community is Al Falamanki (alfalamanki.com), an outpost of one of Beirut’s most famous restaurants.

Like the original, this sprawling Jumeirah Beach Road outpost features indoor and outdoor areas, homely décor and a soft soundtrack of oldschool Arab music. On the menu are hot and cold mezze, salads, grills and manakeesh, along with a selection of shisha. The done thing here is to order a load of dishes to share and settle in for a game of backgammon.

Meanwhile, Olea (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates prides itself on authentic cuisine, thanks to its 14-strong team of chefs from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Palestine. The relaxed space features a lovely outdoor terrace and menu highlights include the lamb kofta, served on a 1.5m-long skewer.

For an atmospheric Arabian Desert experience, head to Al Hadheerah (+971 4 809 6194, meydanhotels. com) at Bab Al Shams Desert Resort and Spa, about 30 minutes’ drive from Downtown Dubai. Designed like an oasis town, guests at the open-air restaurant are entertained under the stars by falconry displays, camel rides, belly dancers, musicians and a spinning tanoura dancer. There’s also an impressive buffet overflowing with hot and cold mezze.

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CElEbRiTy CHEFs’ REsTauRanTs Michelin-starred chefs have long been coming to Dubai to hawk their wares, though the vast majority are here in name only. Pierre Gagnaire makes a point of visiting his restaurant Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire (+971 4 701 1111, pierre-gagnaire.com) at InterContinental Dubai Festival City at least once a year (more than most), and the chefs on site have all been personally trained by him. It shows.

The ever-changing menus are exquisite examples of fusion fare, and despite the huge number of fine-dining restaurants to open since its own launch, this remains one of Dubai’s very best.

Laluz (+971 4 359 7777 laluzrestaurant.com) in the Four Seasons DIFC features a Catalonianinspired menu from Alain Devahive.

The Barcelona-born chef spent a decade working as Adrià Ferran’s righthand man at elBulli, further honing his craft in elBullitaller – the foodresearch laboratory set up by Ferran – and developing his own culinary techniques. The almost entirely Spanish-speaking staff will happily provide recommendations – just be sure to order the beef carpaccio with foie gras and truffle vinaigrette, and the Spanish baby lamb ribs.

In the same hotel, but with an altogether more casual vibe, Firebird Diner by Michael Mina (+971 4 506 0000, firebirddubai.com) is the American celebrity chef’s dinerinspired restaurant. While the food may be all about comfort – think Buffalo-style chicken wings and lobster pot pie – it’s nevertheless a good-looking joint, with plush white leather booths, neon signage and staff in stylish 1950s-style dress. Open from 7am (for breakfast) until midnight, and 3am on Thursdays and Fridays.

One chef who always causes a stir in whichever city he appears is Jason Atherton, whose Marina Social (+971 4 446 6777, ihg.com) is at the InterContinental Dubai Marina.

Atherton’s Social concept has won an army of fans in London, and while the Dubai offshoot hasn’t yet hit the

Where To Eat

same dizzy heights, it’s still a great destination for dishes big on detail and flavour. To celebrate its one-year anniversary, the Monday Social Club takes place every Monday this month from 7pm to 10pm, with live music and unlimited starters, desserts and house beverages as well as one main course for Dhs350 per person. To further enhance your dining experience here, try to snag a table on the terrace.

Nobu (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm.com) in Atlantis, The Palm, meanwhile, offers a Peruvian twist on dishes that have made the Japanese master chef’s restaurant chain the toast of celebrities the world over.

This Nobu also boasts a unique garden, which is a great place to dine under the stars, and a daily happy hour with 16 tapas-style dishes to choose from, including yellowtail tartare and Wagyu beef gyoza, and cocktails, hops and grape by the glass from Dhs30.

Also on Palm Jumeirah is STAY by Yannick Alléno (+971 4 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com) at One&Only The Palm. The restaurant’s interior drips with opulence, which is matched by the elaborate, indulgent dishes on offer, such as roasted milkfed veal tenderloin or spit-roasted whole sea bass. Serious foodies should opt for the signature Extractions Pairing menu; instead of using traditional methods of making sauces, Alléno spent two years developing a new way to prepare sauces that results in incredibly intense flavours.

For a luxe, modern dining experience from the subcontinent, head to Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The menu sings with a cacophony of flavour and creativity, and we heartily recommend the very well-priced grazing menu. Every bite is a delight.

pERFECT pizzas For a quick and casual meal, you can’t look past a pizza. And Dubai has plenty of places serving up crisp crusts and superlative sourdough bases, with nary a pineapple in sight.

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You’ll find two of our favourite spots for a superb slice within malls.

First up is Eataly (800 328 259, eataly.ae), an authentic, bustling homage to all things Italian (edible, at least) on the lower ground floor of The Dubai Mall. Its simple margherita is so good, the tomato sauce so rich and flavoursome, you may well forgo fancy toppings forevermore.

Over at The Galleria Mall, there’s Taste of Italy by Heinz Beck (+971 4 343 8292, tasteofitalybyheinzbeck. com) – he of the three-Michelinstarred La Pergola restaurant in Rome – which serves up the most incredibly light bases, best topped with fresh, peppery rocket and full-flavoured mushrooms.

For a crisp, yet foldable New York-style pie that pays tribute to its Neapolitan roots, say hi to The Pizza Guys (800 843 4897,

DXB City Expert

thepizzaguys.ae) at Bay Avenue in Business Bay. There are five signature pizzas to choose from, all of which are hand-tossed and finished with Italian extra-virgin olive oil, fresh basil and parmigiano reggiano. Our tip? Pull up a stool at the communal counter and order The Godfather (Dhs60) with Wagyubeef meatballs and melted fior di latte mozzarella. Bellissimo.

If you still want to squeeze into your swimsuit, Nonno (800 696 66 66, nonnopizza.com) is a chic pizzeria, also in Business Bay, specialising in paper-thin crusts with no sugar or salt.

Sauces are made from scratch and go straight from blender to base, toppings are super fresh and some pizzas come in at less than 400 calories. That doesn’t mean they’re boring, though. Try the Absolutely Fabulous (Dhs48) with slow-roasted free-range chicken.

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ask a Top CHEF Nigel Lobo, The Eloquent Elephant at Taj Dubai With a major soft spot for dim sum, I’ve always been biased towards Asian eateries. The xiao long bao and Szechuan vegetable and chicken wontons at Din Tai Fung (+971 4 265 1288) are to die for.

The flavours are clean and light, plus you can head to the cinema next door afterwards.

lovEly laTin amERiCan

DinE DownTown In addition to The Beach, Downtown Dubai is one of the few areas in the city where you can walk along the street or, in this case, wide boulevards lined by trees and lit by tiny, twinkling lights at night. You’ll pass an array of good-value independent restaurants as you saunter past the skyscrapers, serving up everything from gourmet burgers and American classics at Ashton Kutcher-owned Ketchup (+971 4 363 8595, ketchup.ae) to the menu mashup at Loui’s (+971 4 457 2411, louisrestaurant.net), where Lebanese, Mediterranean and Japanese dishes all vie for your attention.

The alfresco terrace is a major draw of Fümé Neighborhood Eatery (+971 4 456 8784, fume-eatery.com) at Manzil Downtown Dubai, but the home-style cooking is the real crowd-charmer here.

New to this neighbourhood is Ting Irie (+971 4 557 5601 tingirie.com) at Downtown Boulevard, which offers up Jamaican staples courtesy of executive chef Craig Wong (of Jamaican-Chinese heritage), who has a CV boasting stints at multi-Michelin-starred restaurants Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Heston Blumental’s Fat Duck.

If you’re on the hunt for a meal you’ll remember long after your flight home, it has to be La Serre Bistro (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae). With great service, even better food and an atmosphere rarely bettered anywhere else in the city, this is another place where you should let the waiter order for you – just hope they mention the tagliatelle with black prawns and smoked duck. It’s divine. La Serre’s downstairs Boulangerie is also a great – and very popular – place to head for an alfresco breakfast.

Dubai is currently in love with Peruvian food. In fact, a few of the city’s hotright-now restaurants serve authentic examples of this fabulous cuisine, which puts melt-in-your-mouth meat to good use as much as the freshest fish. While you’ll be right to love Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant. com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, we have a thing for the more casual Garden (+971 56 224 0956, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

The chef is Peruvian, the staff are fully knowledgeable about what they’re serving, and the vibe relaxed.

Save room in your affections, too, for Inka (+971 4 346 9295, inkadubai. com) at Sofitel Downtown Dubai. The intimate dining room is complemented by super-nice staff and a lounge area that’s perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks (and fine views of Burj Khalifa), while the chilli-laced rocoto ceviche and chicken anticuchos are divine.

Looking likely to follow where all have succeeded so far is newcomer Totora Cebicheria Peruana (+971 (4 399 9666, totora.com) at Gate Village, DIFC. A restaurant and bar set over two floors, the high-end offerings here are created from Peruvian ingredients and balance beautifully with an inventive cocktail list. A gem.

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Where To Eat

FoR somE Family Fun As mentioned elsewhere, The Beach at JBR is a great place to head for a family dinner. But there are other places worthy of your attention, particularly if your kids are that little bit older.

If you tend to take an age deciding what to order, then Burger & Lobster (+971 4 514 8838, burgerandlobster. com) at Burj Daman Building, DIFC is the place to head. Here, you have only three choices, each priced at Dhs127: whole lobster (steamed or grilled) with chips and salad; lobster roll with chips and salad; or beef burger (cooked medium or well done) with, you guessed it, chips and salad. Despite the brevity of options, it’s actually difficult to decide as all three are top-notch (the burger’s big and packed with flavour), but we’d have to recommend the whole lobster. Not only is the meat supremely succulent, but it’s also great fun to don a bib and get to work with your claw-cracker. You’ll love the vibrant atmosphere here, too.

You’ll find Crab Tavern (+971 4 420 7489, crabtavern.ae) at Media One Hotel in Dubai Media City.

Unsurprisingly, crab is the house speciality here, and it comes served many ways – in pasta, as a fishcake, or, best of all, the soft-shell variety comes in a burger laced with red-pepper jam.

Of the same ilk is Claw BBQ (+971 4 432 2300, clawbbq.com) in Souq Al Bahar, although it’s a tad more raucous than Crab Tavern thanks to its eating competitions and live band.

They’ve been known to queue out of the door to snag a table at Slider Station (600 544 005, sliderstation. com) in The Galleria Mall, which proudly claims to be the world’s first conveyor-belt burger joint. It’s much more than that, offering a fun American tapas menu (the likes of sticky redonion rings and Coca-Cola-braised short ribs) to complement décor based on a 1940s American gas station. Grab a gourmet slider from its unique, if small, conveyor belt – we recommend the so-called Dangerous, featuring buttermilk-fried chicken, jalapeno and chimichurri aioli.

bRillianT baR FooD If you’re after a casual meal, Dubai’s bars and pubs offer a plethora of delicious light bites. For a laid-back affair, try Bidi Bondi (+971 4 427 0515, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah. With national flags hanging from the walls and plenty of television screens, the massive menu features kangaroo sliders, Queensland lamb cutlets and New Zealand grass-fed rump steak alongside plenty of familiar bar staples.

Down at JBR, JB’s Gastropub (+971 4 428 3084, rotana.com) in the Amwaj Rotana is about as far from the traditional image of greasy onion rings and soggy nachos as you can get. The selection of cheese and cured meats on display will seriously tempt you, or there are more substantial menu options such as the smokedbeef-brisket sandwich, steamed Mediterranean mussels, and buildyour-own mac and cheese.

Hugely popular with residents of The Lakes community, near Emirates Golf Club, Reform Social & Grill (+971 4 454 2638, reformsocialgrill.ae) offers a classic best-of-British menu, along with summer salads and sharing plates.

Taking you from an early breakfast right through to the wee small hours, Fibber Magee’s (+971 4 332 2400, fibbersdubai.com) does proper pub grub with a menu chock-full of neverfail favourites: steak and mushroom pie, Irish stew and that all-important supersized burger. You’ll find the affectionately named ‘Fibbers’ in Saeed Tower One on Sheikh Zayed Road.

Moving Downtown, The Eloquent Elephant (+971 4 438 3131, tajhotels.com) at the Taj Dubai is a contemporary-styled gastropub complete with filament light bulbs, industrial fittings and leather bar stools. On the menu you’ll find posh grub including truffle chips, fresh burrata with heirloom tomatoes, and lamb pâté with Indian spices.

Take a break from shopping and visit Brunswick Sports Club (+971 56 404 0685, brunswicksc.com) at Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates

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Where To Eat

for ribs, crisp squid, fried chicken and some of the best burgers in town.

Head here on Tuesdays for their Date Night Mate Night promotion and enjoy two burgers and a bucket of hops or house grape for Dhs199.

At the opposite end of Mall of the Emirates, Après (+971 4 341 2575, emiratesleisureretail.com) is the UAE’s only après-ski gastropub. With an international menu, there’s plenty to choose from, but the stone-fired pizzas are easily some of the best in the city. Couples should plump for the traditional Swiss-cheese fondue and tuck in while watching Ski Dubai’s snowboarders swoosh down the slopes in front of you.

suCCulEnT sTEak Most high-end hotels in Dubai are endowed with a high-end steakhouse offering premium beef staples like Wagyu that are far from cheap. But budget aside, there are some brilliant steaks to be had in this city.

Heading up our list of top tables is Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, which is a cut above (pun intended). The premium beef here is sourced from choice suppliers across the globe and tastes superb, matched by the views from the 68th floor.

Accompaniments such as blacktruffle butter add a little extra oomph, while add-ons like lobster tail and crab cake are an indulgent treat.

Overlooking the famous horseracing track, Prime Steakhouse (+971 4 381 3111, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel is a destination restaurant that never fails to impress.

With plush décor, low lighting and a pianist tinkling on the ivories, this romantic spot serves only the finest cuts of premium beef sourced from around the world, including Tajima Wagyu and grain-fed Black Angus.

With throne-like chairs and informed service, you’ll feel like royalty.

Opened in 1995, JW’s Steakhouse (+971 4 607 7977, marriottdiningatjw. ae) is a Dubai institution, and rightly

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so. Chef Mohammad Iqbal has been in the kitchen from day one and knows each of his (many) regulars’ preferences by heart. It’s so popular that every table is adorned with brass plaques featuring the names of former diners, while one also had a cocktail created in her honour, the ‘Christine’. With wood panelling, overstuffed armchairs, a long mahogany bar and Frank Sinatra tunes as your soundtrack, the styling of this classy steakhouse sets the tone.

The menu features the finest cuts cooked to perfection, while seafood lovers can choose Maine lobsters and Dungeness crabs straight from the tank.

What’s more, to celebrate his 21 years at the helm, Chef Iqbal is offering the original 1995 menu (with 1995 prices) from 28 October to 17 November.

You’ll have to eat here 24 times to get your own name on a plaque, but it’s a great excuse to come back…

For somewhere lighter on your wallet, go to the ever-popular Western Steakhouse (+ 971 4 331 1111, ihg. com/crowneplaza) at Crowne Plaza Dubai. A fine slab of US-certified fillet and two side dishes costs a mere Dhs145, although to order it you’ll have to first pass up the opportunity of the prime rib – slow-roasted for 12 hours, it all but faints at the sight of your fork. Decisions, decisions.

somEwHERE simplE wiTH young kiDs Eating at your hotel can be expensive – especially if you have a whole family to feed – but fear not: Dubai has plenty of options for good-value, great-quality fare. Ideal for tiny tots is bookstoreslash-café BookMunch (+971 4 388 4006, bookmunchcafe.com) in Al Wasl Square. It serves up tasty treats – try the blueberry pancakes – and stocks plenty of children’s books, ensuring

your kids get food for thought as well as their bellies. Bystro (+971 336 8056, bystrodubai.com) on Sheikh Zayed Road offers a special kids’ corner featuring miniature tables and chairs, as well as toys and books.

The food will please kids and adults alike; choose from sandwiches, great breakfast options, weekend roasts and – intriguingly – dinosaur ribs.

Baker & Spice’s (+971 4 362 4686, bakerandspice.com) Marina Promenade location in Dubai Marina is arguably the pick of the chain’s four venues in the city – you’ll get to enjoy views of the yachts while eating tasty homestyle dishes, the ingredients for which are often drawn from local farms.

There’s no dedicated kids’ menu here, but on offer are smaller portions of main dishes, including a fine spaghetti and meatballs.

Over at Italian restaurant Sapori Di Bice (+971 4 344 2550, saporidi bice.com) on City Walk, kids get to create their own pizzas, with multiple fun-shaped bases on offer.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking for somewhere to eat with your baby, try Pantry Café (+971 4 388 3868, pantrycafe.me) on Al Wasl Road.

While you enjoy wholesome, locally sourced food, your baby will get messy sucking on free veggie purée.

With its seaside location at The Beach JBR and double-height dining space lined with bookshelves, Big Chefs (+971 4 551 5302, bigchefs.co) has a stylish yet homely feel. The huge menu has over 140 dishes across a multitude of cuisines, along with a separate kids’ menu, so you’re bound to find something for even the fussiest of little eaters. Just be sure they leave room for dessert – the Oreo Nutella cheesecake is one your kids won’t want to share.

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert

Where To Eat

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DXB City Expert The Eloquent Elephant

niCE anD spiCy An offshoot of its New York-based, Michelin star-toting sibling, Junoon (+971 4 405 2717, junoonrestaurants. com) at Shangri-La Dubai is a standout example of how, when it’s done as well as this, there are few finer cuisines than Indian as far as robust flavour combinations go. Let your waiter guide you through the must-haves (there are many) but have stern words if he fails to mention the shahi lamb shank – as tender a meat as you’ll ever try, it comes, teased from the bone at your table, with a beautifully balanced black cumin and rose curry. You’ll also adore the macchi masala: pan-roasted, flake-at-the-touch-of-a-fork artic char that’s coated in a wonderful green chilli and coriander marinade.

Tong Thai (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com) at the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, meanwhile, showcases unique regional Thai dishes alongside street-food favourites and authentic yet inventive classics we all know and love. Regularly voted the best Thai restaurant in the city, signature curries like creamy panang kung with tiger prawns and gai phad ka-prao with chilli and hot basil pack plenty of depth and flavour, while classics like tom yum and pad

see-eiw have been honed to perfection.

The dining room itself is a glorious riot of red and orange hues, with glittering lanterns suspended from above and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Business Bay, albeit only from the fourth floor.

In JLT – an area that’s welcomed a handful of great mid-range restaurants in the last year or so – Spice & Ice (+971 50 552 9686) serves up contemporary Indian cuisine with a touch of molecular gastronomy. It’s a buzzy place with a DJ and impressive sharing-style dishes, such as fiery grilled lobster tail and laal maas served in a Kilner jar, which emits a lovely smoky aroma when opened. Don’t miss the nitrogen-filled dragon puffs, passion-fruit biscuits that, as the name suggests, make you puff like a dragon when you pop one into your mouth.

so you Can say you’vE bEEn THERE You’ll need to book ahead to dine at the world’s highest restaurant, which spans much of level 122 of Burj Khalifa, but you’ll be glad you’ve done so. You arrive at At.mosphere (+971 4 888 3828, atmosphereburjkhalifa.com) via the world’s fastest elevator, before settling down in the swankiest of settings to enjoy the finest cuts of meat and fish to grace a menu.

Where To Eat

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gRapE ExpECTaTions Alcohol is only served in restaurants based within licensed premises, which basically means hotels.

A handful of exceptions include restaurants based at DIFC. Where sold, you’ll likely find wine expensive.

big, bEauTiFul buRgERs Brilliant burgers aren’t confined to the menus of Dubai’s hotel-based restaurants. In fact, the city’s best burgers are served in standalone venues. This is certainly true of Burger Fuel (+971 4 445 8220, burgerfuel. com), which has various branches across the city – the best of which, due to it being beside the sea, is at The Walk, JBR. The concept is 100% New Zealand grass-fed beef, 150g of which is chargrilled to perfection and placed within a wholemeal bun.

Thereafter, you can pick multiple extras to stuff inside.

The emphasis at Burger Joint New York (+971 4 344 4459, burgerjointny.com), which you’ll find at City Walk, is on quality alone, with the options limited to just hamburgers and cheeseburgers. Their meat is minced on the premises to ensure consistency of flavour.

The meat is also minced on-site at Big Smoke Burger (+971 4 343 6533, bigsmokeburger.com), prior to which it is flown in from Canada (the brand’s home) to ensure consistency – and quality – of flavour. It’s no surprise that the signature Big Smoke Burger is the popular choice here; one bite and you’ll know why. You’ll find the UAE’s only branch at BoxPark, Al Wasl Road.

Moylo’s (+971 4 388 3140, moylosburgers.com) is a homegrown, hole-in-the-wall joint on Jumeirah Beach Road, just down from Sunset Mall. Quirky and colourful with an industrial edge, it features a wire

DXB City Expert

counter covered in padlocks that have been customised by patrons (including one by Dubai’s Crown Prince, Sheikh Hamdan). There are five burgers to choose from, including the new Truffle Shuffle with 100% Wagyu beef and home-made truffle mayo. Scrumptious.

Dubai’s answER To sTREET FooD With gourmet food trucks rolling out across Dubai at an astonishing rate, there’s bound to be one on the tarmac (or sand) near you. Stalwart Ghaf Kitchen (+971 4 443 0355, ghafkitchen.com) was the first restaurant-on-wheels concept in the city and serves a variety of British classics with a decadent twist, all supplied from a lovingly restored retro Citroën H van. The truck travels to various events across the city so keep an eye on its Facebook and Twitter accounts to discover where it’s at.

The hugely popular Salt (instagram. com/findsalt) has a silver Airstream parked permanently at Kite Beach alongside an air-conditioned, glasswalled terrace, and serves just three types of gourmet sliders packed with flavour. There’s also a mobile truck that pops up at Dubai’s coolest events – follow it on Instagram to get the exact location while you’re in town.

Along Jumeirah Beach Road, and at the opposite end of Dubai’s dining spectrum in terms of glitz, is Bu Qtair (+971 55 705 2130), which has drawn a devoted following for more than two decades. While it’s been upgraded from its original beach shack to a simple restaurant in the nearby fishing harbour, it continues to attract crowds who queue for the freshest prawns and catch of the day, both of which are served with curry sauce, rice and bread.

And if you’re travelling along the E11 between Dubai and Abu Dhabi, pull into the Last Exit (+971 4 317 3999, lastexit.ae) for a tasty pit stop.

It’s home to 12 vintage Airstreams offering a drive-thru service, including Big Smoke Burger, Poco Loco, Operation Falafel, The Hot Dog Stand and Starbucks, along with kids’ play areas, washrooms and prayer rooms.

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DXB City Expert

STAY by Yannick Alléno

ask a Top CHEF Ajay Negi, Bombay Brasserie Calicut Paragon (+971 4 335 8700, paragonrestaurant.net) in Karama serves the freshest seafood and the most traditional, authentically prepared South Indian recipes.

No frills, just great food.

HEaD To piER 7 It’s a pier; it has seven floors. That’s the reason for its name covered off. But what’s of real note here is that each floor is devoted to a different-style restaurant. It’s also the only licensed premises on Marina Walk in Dubai Marina. And so to the good stuff…

The Scene (+971 422 2328, thescenedubai.com) by TV chef and serial author Simon Rimmer is the frontrunner here. British-style comfort food is the gist of it – think succulent, deep-filled pies, feather-light battered fish and chunky chips – but if you want something less filling, the grilled halloumi, pear and salted-hazelnut salad is delicious, too.

No prizes for guessing the cuisine cooked up at the excellent Asia Asia (+971 4 276 5900, asia-asia.com), but there might be a prize if you can find a dish, anywhere, that tickles your taste buds as much as its tigerprawn Kerala masala.

And if you want a side order of animated atmosphere with your mains of slow-cooked prime-beef back ribs, head to Cargo (+971 4 361 8129, cargo-dubai.com).

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DinE aT THE bEaCH

Top Tapas With an open kitchen, funky murals and baskets hanging from its high ceilings, Salero Tapas & Bodega (+971 4 341 0000, kempinski.com) at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates looks more hipster eatery than traditional tapas joint. However, the Spanish staff, led by head chef Oscar Leon, ensure the no-nonsense, garlicsmothered tapas are entirely authentic.

There’s a great selection of hot and cold tapas such as Galician-style octopus, along with three types of paella and a separate kids’ menu. The vibe is relaxed and casual, with flamenco on Wednesdays from 8pm.

Casa de Tapas (+971 4 416 1800, casadetapas.ae) at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club has lovely views over the Creek and a large upside-down lemon tree sprouting from the ceiling.

The menu is packed with classics, including Spanish omelette and garlicky steamed clams, along with more inventive dishes such as paella de fideua (made with angel-hair pasta, squid ink and prawns) – reportedly the only place in Dubai where this delicacy is served.

BOCA (+971 4 323 1833, boca.ae) in DIFC, meanwhile, strays from Spain to include sharing plates from Italy and France on its menu, too. From Med staples such as sweet Padrón peppers and grilled sardines to 12-hour braised lamb and lobster ravioli, dishes are served as they’re ready, making for a relaxed, grazing-style meal. The menu also has a raw section with carpaccios, crudos and tartars, along with a 22-strong list of grape available by the glass. Choose a spot at the buzzing bar or outdoor terrace, or head down to the cellar for a food and grape pairing experience hosted by the sommelier.

The Beach at JBR – a brilliant pedestrianised area mere metres from the sand and sea – is the perfect place to head for a good-value feed with your family in tow. Your best bet is to simply stroll the length of it, stopping to peruse the menus at places that catch your eye – there are myriad cuisines to choose from. But were you to twist our arm, we’d heartily recommend the following.

Helmed by Tom Aikens, who remains the youngest UK chef to have scooped two Michelin stars, the concept at Pots, Pans & Boards (+971 4 456 1959, thebeach.ae) is sharing dishes – make sure you get the lion’s share of the lobster mac and cheese – which you’ll enjoy in a relaxed, informal (even the chairs are mismatched) vibe.

Almaz by Momo (+971 4 551 6247, momoresto.com) is one place that will definitely catch your eye. Here you can look out to the sparkling sea while enjoying your pick from a menu of North African and Levant-inspired dishes. Think piping-hot tagines, slowcooked meats and grilled fish.

Breathing in the sea air may well put you in the mood for the ocean’s finest catches. If so, crack open a crab at Aprons & Hammers (+971 4 456 7888, apronsandhammers.com). Crab and shrimp are served by the bucketful here – along with a dollop of family fun – as diners have to work for their meal by crushing crustaceans with hinged crackers and (you guessed it) hammers. There’s a second restaurant aboard an atmospheric Arabic dhow in Dubai Marina, too.

Also down by the beach is the Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort, in which you’ll find the brilliant BiCE Ristorante (+971 4 399 1111, 3.hilton. com). For many a year this has ranked high among the best Italian restaurants in Dubai, with sublime examples of regional specialities cooked to exacting standards. It’s open for lunch and dinner, and won’t disappoint.

DXB City Expert

iT's all gREEk To mE If you’re hankering for some Hellenic flavours, you’ll be pleased to learn that, while Dubai is not exactly overflowing with Greek restaurants, it does boast some truly excellent ones.

In-the-know locals will point you towards Elia (+971 4 359 8888, dubaimajestic.com), a cosy restaurant with a lovely glass terrace surrounded by greenery in the somewhat incongruous setting of the Majestic Hotel in bustling Bur Dubai.

In the kitchen is Cretan head chef Poppy Kourkoutaki, while charming restaurant manager (and fellow Crete local) Margianna Mavridou heads up the front-of-house team. The menu is divided into Greek classics – the cheese saganaki and chicken souvlaki are standouts – and more contemporary interpretations such as slow-cooked veal cheeks with eggplant purée. Don’t leave without trying the freshly baked carob bread.

From the same team, Mythos Kouzina & Grill (+971 4 399 8166, mythoskouzina.com) feels like a little slice of Santorini hidden away in JLT’s Armada Bay Hotel. Kitted out like a traditional seaside taverna with whitewashed walls, rustic furniture and light-blue banquettes, the simple menu is a mix of traditional dishes such as keftedakia (meatballs) and grilled calamari, together with homestyle favourites like moussaka and gigandes (butter beans). The word is out about this well-priced gem, so be sure to book ahead.

Down at The Beach at JBR, Eat Greek Kouzina (+971 4 430 5249, eatgreekkouzina.com) has a more urban feel with distressed-wood floors, exposed brickwork and a beautiful sea view. The large menu has all the classics, including salads, hot and cold appetisers, gyros and souvlakistuffed pittas, as well as mixed grills, seafood, fish, lamb and even burgers.

It’s open for breakfast from 8.30am, and there’s a second branch in the Mall of the Emirates, too.

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inCREDiblE-valuE inDian anD pakisTani Since Indians and Pakistanis account for the biggest expat community in Dubai, it comes as little surprise that the city is awash with an abundance of Indian and Pakistani cuisine – much of it very cheap and delicious. That’s particularly true of Saravanaa Bhavan (+971 4 334 5252) in Karama, whose vegetable curries pack in brilliant flavour and cost an average Dhs15.

Also in Karama is Calicut Paragon (+971 4 449 8560, paragonrestaurant. net), which serves curried Keralan seafood specialities, while Rangoli Vegetarian Restaurant (+971 4 351 5873, rangolirestaurants.com) in Meena Bazaar, Bur Dubai serves food from the Gujarati region of India (imagine platters upon platters of delicious thali, which just keep coming).

The Dubai institution that is Ravi Restaurant (+971 4 331 5353) in Satwa serves Pakistani-style curries, with favourites including chicken achar, keema fry and chicken methi.

These places are strictly no-frills, but when the curries are so good and such great value, who cares?

FasT, Filling nooDlEs (anD a biT moRE bEsiDEs) The Noodle House (+971 4 366 6730, thenoodlehouse.com) is a real homegrown success story, and the go-to place for steaming-hot bowls of fragrantly spiced pad thai and myriad other dishes inspired by the street foods of Hong Kong, Shanghai, Bangkok and Jakarta. The dishes are never-fail and good value to boot, which makes it a great option for families – it even has a funky kids’ menu, comprising the likes of wok-fried satay-chicken noodles. You’ll find branches of The Noodle House across the city, including one at Souk Madinat Jumeirah.

The menu at Veda Pavilion (+971 4 361 8845, emiratesleisureretail.com) on the trunk of Palm Jumeirah moves beyond Far Eastern staples to include a head-popping free-range chicken vindaloo. As such, everyone in your dining party is likely to find something that really hits the spot here.

DXB City Expert

HEavEnly HigH TEa From traditional afternoon tea to more contemporary offerings, Dubai upholds this very British custom with more than a fair degree of flair.

Be transported to an English summer garden care of Rhodes W1 (+971 4 317 6000, rw1-dubai.com) at Grosvenor House Hotel. With sunny lemon tones and walls covered with fake grass and white butterflies, this classy but casual dining spot from Dubai-based British chef Gary Rhodes serves afternoon tea every Wednesday to Saturday from 2.30pm to 5pm. From finger sandwiches in savoury flavours such as quail’s egg mayonnaise and onion-and-herb croque monsieur to warm crumpets with fresh raspberries and home-made scones, the fine-china cake stands come piled high with tasty treats to complement your pot of tea.

(Dhs195 per person.)

For a more contemporary offering, meanwhile, Raffles Dubai, the striking pyramid-shaped hotel in Oud Metha, hosts a fun Fashion Afternoon Tea at Raffles Salon (+971 4 324 8888, raffles.com), in the light-filled marble lobby, with over 20 blends from Newby Teas and dainty sweets and savouries inspired by seasonal runway trends (don’t miss the fabulous peach-praline stiletto). Until the end of this month, afternoon-tea guests can also enter a draw to win one of six pairs of Manolo Blahnik shoes. (Daily, 2pm-7pm, Dhs125 per person.)

sumpTuous sEaFooD While most menus these days feature ample fish dishes, restaurants that specialise in serving up our fishy friends are in surprisingly short supply across Dubai. That’s one of the reasons why Catch (+971 4 357 1755, catch. ae) was so warmly received by locals – and remains one of the hottest tables in town, with an atmosphere to match. Hailing from NYC, the other good reason that this contemporary American seafood restaurant finds favour is, of course, its food. You can have your fish in a number of ways, but

you don’t need to look beyond the simple grilled version. If you only have time to eat out once or twice while you’re here, make Catch a must-dine.

For classic seaside favourites at a reasonable price, stop by The MAINE (+971 4 457 6719, themaine.ae) in the DoubleTree by Hilton, JBR. Part American brasserie and part European bistro, the unpretentious venue features a raw bar overflowing with fresh oysters, ceviche and seafood towers, along with grilled steak, chops and a variety of vegetarian dishes. With touches

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DXB City Expert

iF you book jusT onE plaCE wHilE you’RE HERE THis monTH, makE iT...

Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriott marquisdubailife.com Of all the restaurants overseen by celebrity chefs in Dubai, Rang Mahal stands out as by far the most creative. Not content to rest on its reputation for serving up incredibly good Indian fare, a series of inventive tasting menus are dreamt up at an impressive rate in its kitchen, the latest of which, Tenjiku to Tokyo, being as good as any savoured before it. As its name suggests, the intense flavours of the eight-course menu sees India meet Japan, by way of beverage pairings from Australia and the US, and a dessert crafted before your eyes that Jackson Pollock would have been proud of. Sound interesting?

It tastes even better.

101 Dining Lounge and Bar

of nautical glamour and a seafrontfacing terrace, it’s also a top spot to head for relaxed sundowners.

CHEEsE, plEasE If you’ve got a soft spot for cheese paired with a good glass of grape, then Dubai has a plethora of great-value deals. Grapes Bi Jebnah, held every Wednesday at Manzil Downtown Dubai (+971 4 423 8899, vida-hotels. com), is the ideal place to sample a large selection of cheeses from across the region, including a dedicated

DIY halloumi station. (6pm-10pm, Dhs145 including three premium house beverages.)

If your tastes are more international, sister hotel Vida Downtown Dubai (+971 4 423 8899, vida-hotels.com) offers an array of cheeses from all over the world, along with gourmet tapas and antipasti. (Wednesdays, 6pm9pm, Dhs135 including three glasses of premium beverages.)

Meat the Cheese, every Tuesday at Cave (+971 4 444 7111, conraddubai.com) in the Conrad

Dubai, is one for serious cheese-aholics, with artisanal cheeses including deliciously creamy Brie de Meaux and mild-mannered Fourme d’Ambert, charcuterie and matched grape from its 500-strong cellar. (7pm-11pm, Dhs245 including unlimited grape.)

If fondue is more your thing, visit The Melting Pot (+971 4 3431020, meltingpot.ae) at trendy BoxPark, which specialises in gorgeously gooey fromage and chocolate fondue.

There’s even a four-course menu that sees meats and seafood twirled in the communal pot.

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DinnER wiTH an inCREDiblE viEw Just off a jetty that juts out into the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, on the westernmost tip of Palm Jumeirah, lies 101 Dining Lounge and Bar (+971 440 1010, thepalm.oneandonlyresorts. com) at One&Only The Palm Dubai.

From here you get to drink in pictureperfect views of Dubai Marina and Burj Al Arab while enjoying superb contemporary European fare from a menu that has been rubber-stamped

by French super-chef Yannick Alléno – including the softest squid we’ve ever tasted. The whole experience can be heightened by catching a boat to the restaurant from sister hotel One&Only Royal Mirage. Booking is essential, as is a pre-boarding drink in the beautiful Jetty Lounge.

If you want a fine vantage point to see The Dubai Fountain dance its way toward the night sky – and believe us, you do – book a table at Thiptara (+971 4 888 3444, theaddress.com) at The Palace Downtown Dubai. The name Thiptara means ‘magic at the water’, and the traditional Thai recipes with Bangkok-style influences are as magical as the setting.

Nothing tops the view of Burj Khalifa that’s served up – along with incredibly good food – at Katana (+971 4 277 8808, katana-dubai.com). Hailing from LA’s sunset strip, Katana specialises in the robatayaki style of authentic Japanese cuisine, whereby bambooskewered gourmet fish, meat and vegetables are grilled over a charcoalinduced open flame. It’s fabulous.

How about dining as if under the sea? Of course it’s possible: this is Dubai. A whole-wall aquarium forms the backdrop to a meal at the excellent Ossiano (+971 4 426 2000, atlantisthepalm.com) at Atlantis, The Palm. Your credit card will enjoy a good workout here, but hey, you’re on holiday.

For something altogether different, try dinner as you float down Dubai Creek in a boat-turned-restaurant, taking in the sights of ‘old’ Dubai as you feast on fine-dining dishes like baked chermoula prawns with a wonderful

ginger and coriander couscous.

This is Bateaux Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), where boarding is at 7.45pm nightly, disembarking at 11pm.

Dining aT THE mall Follow the locals’ lead this month and head to one of Dubai’s famous shopping malls for a bite to eat in air-conditioned comfort (in-between bouts of retail therapy, of course).

Alongside the food courts, many malls have excellent casual eateries that are especially popular during the hot summer months.

It’s easy to be overwhelmed by The Dubai Mall, but when shopping fatigue kicks in, make a beeline for Circle Café (+971 4 338 0049, circle-cafe.com), on the ground floor next to The Waterfall, and you won’t be disappointed. Established in 2003 with an emphasis on fresh produce, this homegrown success story (there are now six cafés across the city) has an extensive menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner favourites, from an Arabic breakfast platter with halloumi za’atar and foul medames (fava beans) to superfood salad and peri-peri prawns.

Social House (+971 4 339 8640) is another crowd-pleaser, with an outdoor terrace overlooking The Dubai Fountain and a menu divided into flavours from East and West.

Choose from soups, sushi, salads and small plates, or more substantial meals like the excellent Thai green curry and osso busco.

Meanwhile, Lafayette Gourmet (+971 4 345 5444, galerieslafayettedubai.com), a posh food hall on the second level of famed French department store Galeries Lafayette, has individual stations serving everything from Mediterranean salads and Moroccan tagines to oysters and caviar.

Spanning over 36,000 sq m, the third-floor extension of the Mall of the Emirates has some of its best casual restaurants. Leading the way

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is Taiwanese steamed-dumpling chain Din Tai Fung (+971 4 265 1288). The chicken xiao long bao (soup dumplings), red-bean stickyrice dessert and Chinese oolong tea – with free refills – are worth the inevitable wait at this popular spot.

Next to VOX Cinemas and hailing from New York, nearby Dean & Deluca (+971 4 419 0830, deandeluca. com) dishes up everything from American classics such as the Philly steak sandwich to Arabian dishes like mourabian, a prawn stew in spicy tomato sauce served with rice.

There’s also a tempting breakfast menu including its signature fatayers (Middle Eastern pastry parcels stuffed with ingredients such as lamb or spinach).

DivinE Dim sum, anD THEn somE No self-respecting cosmopolitan city can call itself a self-respecting cosmopolitan city unless it has a Hakkasan (+971 4 384 8484, hakkasan.com). Happily, Dubai does (at Jumeirah Emirates Towers), and the high-end chain doesn’t disappoint with its chic, contemporary Chinese décor, expertly made dim sum and oh-so fashionable bar.

Shang Palace (+971 4 405 2703, shangri-la.com) at the Shangri-La Dubai is an old favourite that never fluctuates from serving up outstanding examples of Cantonese cuisine: case in point, the signature cod fish with grapes and well-balanced orange sauce.

If you’re feeling decadent, head to Shiba (+971 4 381 3111, meydanhotels. com) at The Meydan Hotel. Chinese meets Japanese on the menu here, with some superb examples of bighitting dishes from each – the neverfail miso-marinated black cod representing Japan; the stir-fried fresh scallops with a tongue-numbing XO sauce in the Chinese corner.

For a budget-friendly, brilliant and authentic Chinese-restaurant experience, visit China Sea (+971 4 295 9816) in Deira. Opt for the Peking duck before moving upstairs for karaoke. It’s an experience.

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Dining aT DiFC You may want to check in with your bank manager before heading to DIFC for dinner (especially with the whole family), but the reward for blowing your budget will be a truly memorable meal. Within DIFC is Gate Village, where amid the high-end galleries and auction houses are some of Dubai’s – and the world’s – best restaurants.

Listed at number 89 in Restaurant Magazine’s 2016 list of the world’s best restaurants is the ever-popular Zuma (+971 4 425 5560, zumarestaurant. com), where the outstanding Japanese food is best ordered to share. In fact, what always works well here is to ask your waiter to order for you. New-tothe-menu dishes that you’ll want to try, courtesy of new executive chef Pawel Kazanowski and a hint of influence from CEO and founder Rainer Becker, include a sublime thinly sliced chutoro tuna with chilli, coriander, and sesame.

Taking the number-99 slot on the same prestigious list is La Petite Maison (+971 4 439 0505, lpmlondon. co.uk/dubai). It uses produce from local UAE farms in a number of its fabulous creations, all of which have their roots in French-Mediterranean cooking.

Dishes like the burrata with basil and tomatoes and the salt-baked sea bass are legendary among Dubai gourmands.

A mere stone’s throw from DIFC – though admittedly by a very strong arm – is the always-in-vogue La Cantine Du Faubourg (+ 971 43 527 105, lacantine.ae), as fashionable a restaurant as you’ll find this side of the, erm, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

As is increasingly popular these days, sharing plates is the concept here, so take your pick from a catwalk-length menu of mid-sized dishes, the standouts from which are the crab-avocado salad and the exceptional slow-cooked Wagyu short ribs. As expected, you should turn up fashionably late to experience the atmosphere at its buzzing best, something heightened by its brilliant inside-to-outside setting.

The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri (+971 4 338 8133, theartisan.ae) in Burj Daman Building is a little hidden

DXB City Expert pREvious pagEs: La Petite Maison. opposiTE: Aseelah

away but you’ll be glad you’ve found it.

Originating in Florence, the thricestarred Enoteca Pinchiorri was founded by sommelier Giorgio Pinchiorri and self-taught (French) executive chef Annie Féolde. The Dubai outpost is a more relaxed version of Italian fine dining, with an emphasis on amazing, authentic ingredients (the restaurant even has its own brand of Parmesan and olive oil). Overseen by head chef Luca Tresoldi, who has worked in Florence under Féolde for the last five years, signature dishes like octopus slow-cooked in home-made olive oil and tuffoli pasta with veal-shank stew are stunning examples of just how beautiful and delicate Italian food can be when done to this high standard.

sublimE susHi anD sasHimi Beyond the elsewhere-mentioned Zuma and Nobu, Dubai is home to a couple more standout Japanese restaurants. One of them, Armani/ Hashi (+ 971 4 888 3888, armanihotels. com) is housed in the Armani Hotel Dubai, within Burj Khalifa. You’d be hard pushed to find anywhere selling seafood as good as that served here.

Another, TOMO (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae) at Raffles Dubai, is helmed by chef-owner Chitoshi Takaashi, who has devised a menu that’s vast and packed with fantastic authentic Japanese delicacies, best navigated with the help of a waiter.

The terrace here bestows brilliant views of Burj Khalifa, too.

Ex-Zuma chef Reif Othman’s Play (+971 4 225 6000, h-hotel.com) at The H Hotel was an instant hit when it opened at the outset of 2016. Playfully (naturally) described as ‘Mediterrasian’ – a fusion of Mediterranean and Asian flavours – the twists on classic dishes

here are a real delight. Be sure to order the duck gyoza and takumi Wagyu ribs – both of which are divine. The always-buzzing bar and DJ mean the atmosphere at dinner is as spirited as the menu, although if you’re a nonsmoker the restaurant area can get uncomfortably smoky.

Famed London export Novikov (+971 4 3 888 8744, novikov-dubai. com) at the Sheraton Grand Hotel is another ultra-glamorous spot, with a sleek, dimly lit dining space, resident DJs and a vast – and very impressive – Asian menu. Fronting the open kitchen is a market counter displaying fresh fish and seafood flown in every second day from Portugal and Japan, including interesting delicacies like goose barnacles and sea urchins. The skill of ex-Nobu head chef Shane Macneill is evident throughout – highlights include the king crab-leg and wasabi gratin, scallop and black-truffle sashimi, and the signature duck salad.

Founded in Moscow, famed in London and now delighting diners in Dubai is Sumosan (+971 56 678 3357, sumosan.com), which serves up Japanese food of the highest calibre to the showy crowd at Billionaire Mansion. You’ll find it within the Taj Dubai hotel.

Cheaper than the lot – though still of high quality – is Manga Sushi (+971 4 342 8300, mangasushi.ae) at Beach Park Plaza in Jumeirah 2. As its name more than hints at, this is a restaurant that’s designed manga-style, right down to the waitresses’ uniforms. The fun extends to the very inventive sushi creations, including Godzilla in Dubai: deep-fried wasabi prawn, asparagus and diced mango, dipped in wasabi mayonnaise and rolled in sesame seeds. You’ll also find a branch of Manga Sushi in The Dubai Mall.

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pRE- anD posTTHEaTRE Dining Off to Dubai Opera and looking for a bite to eat before or after the show?

Downtown Dubai is full of great restaurants with deals for those heading to its newest entertainment venue.

On Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard, La Serre has created a preshow menu available from 5.30pm in the ground-floor Boulangerie (+971 4 428 6966, laserre.ae) and a post-show menu in the upstairs Bistro (+971 4 428 6969, laserre.ae), available from 10.30pm to 11.30pm. Boulangerie’s menu features two courses plus a fresh pastry and costs Dhs150 per person, while Bistro’s three-course set menu costs Dhs760 per couple and includes classics like sea bass and crème brûlée.

Overlooking the fountains at the Armani Hotel Dubai, theatregoers can enjoy an antipasti plate with a glass of house grape or bubbly for Dhs150 per person at Armani/Ristorante (+971 4 888 3666, armanihotels.com), a two-course set menu for Dhs250, or three courses for Dhs300 (food only). Alternatively, flash your Dubai Opera ticket at any of the hotel’s five restaurants and you’ll get 20% off the à la carte menu.

Meanwhile, Souk Al Bahar is an Arabic-inspired dining destination that’s just a five-minute taxi ride from the opera house. There are more than 20 restaurants and cafés to choose from but our pick for a pre-show tipple is Kanpai (+971 4 441 9262, kanpaime.com), which means ‘cheers’ in Japanese. From 5pm to 8pm, you can enjoy happy-hour beverages and 50% off selected sushi, tempura and marvellous maki rolls.

If Indian is more your thing, the Early Bombay Bird menu at Bombay Brasserie (+971 4 448 9050, tajhotels. com) at the Taj Dubai – a mere 10 minutes by taxi – has three courses for Dhs150, with dishes such as tandoori salmon tikka, chicken tikka masala and gulab jamun on offer. Available from 6pm to 8pm, the set menu also coincides with happy hour, so you can partake in the bottle of house grape for Dhs150.

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Cool CaFEs Craving a good cup of coffee or slap-up breakfast? At City Walk, Jumeirah’s alfresco shopping and dining district, The Brass (+971 4 385 6971, thebrass. ae) features gorgeous golden interiors and an extensive menu of speciality brews such as lavender-honey lattes and Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom, along with pastries, cakes, salads, sandwiches and flatbreads. A second branch has also just opened at The Outlet Village in Jebel Ali. Like its New York State namesake, The Hamptons Café (+971 4 331 5118, hamptonsdubai.com) is a stylish locale that draws in a regular crowd of locals, expats and in-the-know visitors.

Located in a residential-looking white villa on Jumeirah Beach Road, menus are presented on iPads, with dishes ranging from breakfast favourites like French toast and truffle-coddled eggs to lunch and dinner options such as pulled-duck crostini and buttermilkfried chicken. Which is just as well because it’s open from 8am until 11pm (1am on Thursdays and Fridays).

Continue south along Jumeirah Beach Road and you’ll stumble upon The Surf Café (+971 4 346 6292, thesurfcafedubai.com). A block back from the beach, this chilled-out spot has friendly staff and a wide selection of fresh seafood (you can even choose live lobster and king crab from the tank), along with sushi, ceviche and salads. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the all-day breakfast menu, super-smoothies and speciality coffee are yet more reasons to visit.

Meanwhile, The Majlis Dubai (themajlisdubai.com) in the grounds of Jumeirah Mosque bills itself as the city’s ‘first and finest camel milk café’. Come here to try the signature camelccino or camellatte made with specially roasted Ethiopian coffee beans and deliciously smooth camel milk, along with Arabic coffee served from a traditional dallah pot, and muffins, éclairs and ice cream made from, you guessed it, camel milk.

Leading the way when it comes to hipster cafés, The Sum of Us (+971 56 445 7526, thesumofusdubai.com)

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pREvious pagEs: Last Exit.

THEsE pagEs, CloCkwisE FRom Top lEFT: Totora Cebicheria Peruana; Salero Tapas & Bodega; ZOCO; Firebird Diner

in the Burj Al Salam building behind the Sheraton Hotel has industrial-chic interiors, a sourdough bakery and its own coffee roastery. As you can imagine, it smells pretty good – throw in an inviting menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes, such as French toast with salted-caramel sauce or Parmesancrusted chicken breast, and you can see why it’s one of Dubai’s most popular spots (open 8am-10pm daily). At the other end of town in Al Quoz, sister café Tom&Serg (+971 56 474 6812, tomandserg.com) is just as good and usually even busier.

guT-busTing bRunCHEs In the bigger-is-better city of Dubai, the word ‘brunch’ takes on a very different meaning. Here, brunch is not a laidback mid-morning weekend meal to be enjoyed with a friend in a nice café; it is an all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink lunchtime feast that involves cuisines from every corner of the globe, live music and sometimes even acrobatics.

A Dubai brunch isn’t just a meal, it’s an experience – and something everyone needs to try at least once during their holiday here. Typically staged on Fridays but increasingly available on Saturdays at some restaurants, we could devote an entire chapter to brunch, such is the broadness of the offering, but you will have to settle for a few of our current choice picks…

The gluttonous nature of a typical Dubai brunch can make for a somewhat raucous atmosphere in certain places, so if it’s somewhere sophisticated you seek, look no further than Coya (+971 4 316 9600, coyarestaurant.com) in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. From punchy ceviches, tacos, maki rolls and inventive salads, through to intensely flavoured skewered meats and mushrooms, you’ll be halfway to gourmet heaven by the time you choose a main course – opt for the arroz nikkei (Chilean sea bass cooked with

rice, lime and chilli) and you’ll soon be all the way there. Prices range from Dhs328 for the non-alcoholic option through to Dhs448 for house beverages and Dhs598 for champagne.

(Fridays, 12.30pm-4pm.)

Another sophisticated option is the Share & Social Brunch at Marina Social (+971 4 446 6664, marinasocialdubai. com). Whereas most of Dubai’s brunch options will see you roaming aimlessly, plate in hand, amid a mind-boggling spread of food, here the food (all of it excellent) is brought to your table. A drinks-laden trolley will also come your way, pushed by an expert mixologist.

(Fridays, 12.30pm-3.30pm, Dhs495 including house beverages.)

If you like your brunch with a side order of live jazz, you can tap your toes while enjoying choice cuts of steak, plump-as-a-pillow shrimp and myriad other highlights – great cocktails included – at the Prime68 (+971 4 414 3000, jwmarriottmarquisdubailife. com) 1920s Brunch at JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai. Friday brunch packages start at Dhs275 per person for food only, and go up to Dhs650 for accompanying champagne. The fun runs from 12.30pm to 3.45pm, and kids under five eat for free.

A haven outside of the bustling city is boutique hotel Desert Palm PER AQUUM. Here, sat aside polo fields and serenaded by birdsong, you can savour the Friday Vintage Brunch at Rare (+971 4 323 8888, desertpalm. ae), where European-influenced dishes meet their Asian counterparts, beautifully paired with half a bottle of bubbly per person and your pick of wines and cocktails. It costs Dhs395 per person, with a non-alcoholic package available for Dhs295 and children (aged four to 12) priced at Dhs195. Come here on a Saturday afternoon and you can enjoy a BBQ brunch from 1pm to 5pm with freeflowing Hendrick’s cocktails for just Dhs195 per adult.

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To

SHOP Chapter FOUR

Step inside the stores, meander around the markets and seek out the unique shopping experiences that are found only in Dubai

Mega Malls Few places in the world do malls like Dubai. Ever since the first one (the Al Ghurair Centre) swung open its doors in 1980, there’s been a steady flow of malls opening up across the city.

Whether you’re in town for a day, a week or longer, there’s a mall for you.

With over 1,200 stores under its gargantuan roof, The Dubai Mall (800 38 224 6255, thedubaimall.com) should be your first stop. Consisting of four levels – plus an aquarium, Olympicsized ice rink and 22-screen cineplex – it was named the largest shopping

centre in the world by Guinness World Records when it opened in 2008, and is packed with designer and high-street stores. At some point during your time here it’s a given that you’ll lose your bearings, but there are numerous help desks (and even buggies to ferry you around if you’re flagging). Don’t leave without visiting Level Shoe District (+971 4 501 6939, levelshoedistrict. com), which houses every designer shoe brand known to mankind; the region’s first Bloomingdale’s (+971 4 350 5333); and an outpost of France’s famous Galeries Lafayette (+971 4 339 9933, galerieslafayette-dubai.com).

Mall of the Emirates (+971 4 409 9000, malloftheemirates.com) is another big shopping draw. Following its recent 36,000 sq m extension (which saw 20 new fashion brands, 12 restaurants and a 24-screen VOX Cinemas added), this mega-mall has over 560 stores to roam. Make sure you become acquainted with Fashion Dome, an area dedicated to designer garb; Boutique 1 (+971 4 395 1200, boutique1.com), a homegrown retail star stocking global and local labels; the UAE’s largest Alexander McQueen store (+971 4 347 0239), stocking seasonal collections as well as classics

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abOUt this ChapteR Dubai’s main malls have long opening hours: The Dubai Mall is open from 10am to midnight, while Mall of the Emirates is open from 10am to 10pm, Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to midnight, Thursday to Saturday. The malls also ask that shoppers dress modestly – shoulders and knees should be covered. These dress codes are in place to show respect for the country’s culture and religion, rather than law.

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like skull scarves and knucklebox clutches; and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (+971 4 409 8888, harveynichols. com), which houses a winning mix of international fashion heavyweights and much more over its three floors.

Next, hop in a taxi or take the metro to BurJuman (+971 4 352 0222, burjuman.com), one of the oldest shopping malls in Dubai. Offering wallto-wall high fashion, from Fendi and Versace to the UAE’s only Saks Fifth Avenue (+971 4 501 2700, saksme. com), here you can shop for designer names in relative calm.

Back on the metro, continue for three stops along the Red Line and you’ll reach Deira City Centre Mall (+971 4 295 1010, citycentredeira. com), home to over 370 retail stores as well as Magic Planet, a supersized indoor family-entertainment centre.

A hop and skip from here is Dubai Festival City Mall (+971 4 800 332, festivalcentre.com), a creekside retail resort that offers a potpourri of shops (mostly mid-range), with newcomers including Rigby & Peller, River Island and Kate Spade. The new waterfront extension provides great views of the city skyline and boasts 20 restaurants, including the first Serendipity 3 outside the United States (there’s now a second branch at City Walk).

Shoppers who need a fuss-free retail spree should head to Dubai Marina Mall (+971 4 436 1020, dubaimarinamall.com), which offers a stylish mix of high-street brands on a more manageable scale, or Ibn Battuta Mall (+971 4 362 1900, ibnbattutamall. com). Touted as the world’s largest themed shopping mall and based on the travels of Arabic explorer Ibn Battuta, the décor alone makes for great snaps.

There are bargains galore at Dubai Outlet Mall (+971 4 423 4666, dubaioutletmall.com), located 30 minutes outside the city, and The Outlet Village (+971 4 317 3999, theoutletvillage.ae) in Jebel Ali, the emirate’s newest hot spot for luxury labels for less. The former offers heavily discounted prices on previous seasons’ wares from top brands; must-visit shops include Priceless and The Outlet, both

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of which stock clothes and accessories from the city’s biggest luxury department stores. The latter boasts three department stores and over 125 brands such as Fendi, Valentino, Givenchy, Tom Ford, Jimmy Choo, Tory Burch, Dolce & Gabbana, Kenzo and many more. Taking inspiration from the World Heritage-listed hilltop town of San Gimignano in Tuscany, the mall features terracotta-tiled piazzas and stylish cafés, making it a lovely place to wile away a few hours. Open from 10am to 10pm Sunday to Wednesday, and 10am to midnight Thursday to Saturday, there are free shuttle buses departing regularly from Jumeirah, Al Barsha and Dubai Marina. Visit the website for locations and times.

sOUveniRs tO savOUR Say farewell to tacky token gifts and hello to something a little more authentic – starting with Arabica coffee. While a number of coffee shops in Dubai serve Arabica coffee (with a signature date), few sell the beans to take away – apart from the Dubai Coffee Museum (+971 4 353 8777, coffeemuseum.ae), that is. Located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the museum features a coffee bar on the top floor, where bubbly barista John Paul – an expert when it comes to drinks of the caffeinated kind – serves and sells Arabica coffee to visitors looking for a souvenir with a touch of authenticity. It’s open from 9am to 5pm every day, except Friday.

Poetry is another cornerstone of Dubai’s history. Head to the vast Kinokuniya (+971 4 434 0111, uae. kinokuniya.com) bookshop in The Dubai Mall to pick up an Arabic poetry book from one of the many shelves stacked high with tomes. Calligraphy, too, is synonymous with Emirati heritage. Gallery 1 (+971 4 432 7493, g-1.com), which has shops in Souk Al Bahar and Souk Madinat Jumeirah, among other locales, stocks an enviable selection of calligraphy keepsakes, from prints to notebooks.

Oud, a scent synonymous with Dubai, will undoubtedly make for a

memorable memento, with most of the malls and markets mentioned here offering bottled or bespoke versions for men and women. But for noses that prefer softer scents, head to Villa 515 (+971 4 395 4054, villa515.com), an olfactory sanctuary in Jumeirah 3 that boasts a laboratory specifically designed for perfume customisation. Perfect for creating your own holiday scent.

COnCept stORes Outside of Dubai’s glitzy malls there’s a raft of independent concept stores and shopping experiences to enjoy – if you know where to find them.

The best way to tick off the city’s unique boutiques is to introduce them

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ask a lOCal Kelly Lundberg Stylist and personal shopper at StyleMeDivine The malls are so big and the choice is endless, so it’s essential to make a plan, otherwise you’ll be shopping all day with little to show for your efforts. Better still, hire a personal stylist from StyleMeDivine (+971 4 455 8475, stylemedivine. com) to help you shop and find the best deals. From Dhs500 for two hours

pReviOUs page: BoxPark. leFt: The Waterfall at The Dubai Mall

into your day, rather than allocate a day to visit them. For example, if you find yourself in Alserkal Avenue admiring the art galleries, stop by The cARTel (+971 4 388 4341, thecartel.me), one of Dubai’s creative retail pioneers. From the outside it looks like an abandoned warehouse.

Step inside, however, and a carefully curated selection of clothing awaits.

The designers stocked here are often exclusive to the region, with every piece a limited edition to ensure its individuality. Over the road from The cARTel you’ll find A4 Space (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), a sprawling 6,000 sq ft warehouse that regularly hosts pop-up fashion and art events for the city’s cool crowd.

Fashion-conscious parents heading to Dubai Zoo should visit the nearby Zoo Concept (+971 4 349 5585), which offers everything from novelty gifts to trendy T-shirts. From here, venture a little further along Jumeirah Beach Road to Comptoir 102 (+971 4 385 4555), a conceptualised eatery selling kitsch clothing alongside a delicious vegan menu.

In Umm Suqeim is IF Boutique (+971 4 394 7260, ifboutiquedubai. com), a villa housing cutting-edge designs from a whole host of quirky international designers, including Yohji Yamamoto. A short drive down the same street is Garderobe (+971 4 394 2753, garderobe.ae), a hotbed for preowned luxury fashion. Expect to

find vintage Chanel alongside Céline, Balenciaga beside Burberry, and Dior in company with Dolce & Gabbana.

Holidaymakers planning on retracing Tom Cruise’s footsteps at Dubai International Financial Centre (Cruise ran under the iconic Gate Building in the fourth instalment of Mission: Impossible) should pay Momentum (+971 4 327 4320, momentum-dubai. com) a visit. This vintage- and rarewatch store offers a raft of timepieces as well as service and repair.

best OF bespOke Dubai has garnered a well-deserved reputation for custom tailoring over the years, thanks, in part, to

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an abundance of fabric stores and quick turnaround times – great for visitors like yourself.

Areas synonymous with tailoring include Satwa – Deepa’s (+971 4 349 4434, deepastailoring.com) is a popular spot; Karama – Dream Girls (+971 4 337 7287) is a regular for Dubai’s females; and Bur Dubai – Parmar Tailors (+971 4 351 3112, parmartailors.com) is a firm favourite for made-to-measure. These three locations make for a great day out in ‘old’ Dubai, regardless of whether you’re looking for bespoke attire.

Men, meanwhile, should stop by Royal Fashion (+971 4 368 6192, royalfashion.biz) at Souk Madinat Jumeirah (it also has branches in various hotels across Dubai). Its tailors create made-to-measure suits and shirts at reasonable prices, and can send them on to your home country if they’re not ready before you leave.

Couples looking to say ‘I do’ should stop by the popular Gold & Diamond Park (+971 4 362 7777, goldanddiamondpark.com) along Sheikh Zayed Road. It’s a hive of activity with lots of jewellery stores offering custom-made luxuries. Dubai stalwart Monili Jewellers (+971 4 340 7537, monilijewellers.com) is a standout. It houses a range of diamonds, semiprecious and precious stones, which the boutique’s artisans can use to create bespoke pieces for you. Haggling here is an absolute – and welcomed – essential.

Mini Malls They might not be as big as Dubai’s jumbo malls but the city’s smaller counterparts are chock-full of labels worthy of your holiday dirhams. Most are located along Jumeirah Beach Road and Al Wasl Road – two roads that run parallel. Simply drive up one, turn around at Drydocks Dubai, and drive down the other.

Kick off your mini-mall trawl at one of Dubai’s newest shopping centres, aptly named The Mall (+971 4 348 4848, themall.co.ae), opposite Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Flooded with natural light, it houses 55 stores and food outlets including Boho Beachwear, Big Brands Factory Outlet and French fashion retailer Escales.

Continue along Jumeirah Beach Road to Sunset Mall (+971 4 330 7333, sunsetmall.ae), home to West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) and its batch of underground fashion brands from across the globe. Two other must-visit shopping havens here include the Mediterranean-inspired Mercato Mall (+971 4 344 4161, mercatoshoppingmall.com) – home to the brilliant Bagatelle (+971 55 312 6822), which sells preowned designer clothing, shoes and jewellery – and The Galleria Mall (+971 4 344 4434), where you’ll find quirky stores like SoH (+971 4 344 4147, soh.ae), a beauty-salon-meets-gallery-meetsboutique, and ValleyDez (+971 4 321

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leFt: The Outlet Village. next page: The Spice Souk

2898, valleydez.com), which sells cool designer and ready-to-wear clothing.

The Galleria Mall also houses some great little restaurants.

City Walk (citywalk.ae), at the junction of Al Wasl and Al Safa Road, aims to bring the outside in with a new boulevard-style shopping area complete with glass roof, subtle air-conditioning and plenty of natural light. Windowshop without breaking a sweat at boutiques like American Vintage, Rag & Bone and Karl Lagerfeld, then catch a film at Reel Cinemas or take the kids to Mattel Play Town, a newly opened indoor ‘eduplay’ centre.

If you want to fully explore the Jumeirah/Al Wasl area but haven’t rented a car, you can hire a taxi for a six-hour stint, for a flat fee of Dhs500.

You must book 24 hours in advance (+971 4 208 0000, dubaitaxi.ae).

Ripe FOR a diFFeRent expeRienCe? Ripe Market (+971 4 380 7602, ripeme.com) is one of the city’s most popular outdoor markets during the winter. Focused solely on local artisans and designers selling arts, crafts, fashion and jewellery, there are also locally grown organic fruit and vegetables for sale, street-food stalls, live music, pop-up fitness classes, activities for the kids and a wonderful community atmosphere. You’ll find it at various locations across town this month: every Wednesday (2pm-9pm) from 12 October in the grounds of

Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina; every Friday (9am-3pm) from 21 October at Zabeel Park; and every Saturday (3pm-9pm) from 15 October at Al Barsha Pond Park.

sOUk speCtaCUlaR It’s no surprise that one of Dubai’s oldest settlement areas provides the base and backdrop for one the city’s most authentic shopping experiences: Deira. Nestled in the neighbourhood’s maze of winding walkways you’ll find the Dubai Gold Souk – best reached by taxi, although the nearest metro stop is Al Ras. Residents love it because it reminds them of days gone by, while tourists like it for the quality and variety of gold – and the fact that you can haggle over the price. A quick march from the Gold Souk will lead you to the Spice Souk, home to a number of thatched market stalls selling aromatic spices that are certain to pull at your purse strings.

Not far from both is the Perfume Souk, which is a great place to head for a souvenir vial of the traditional Arabic scent, oud. You can also buy essential oils at great prices (particularly if you haggle well).

Dubai Textile Souk, meanwhile, is a fabric fairyland for shoppers looking to create bespoke garments.

From swathes of silk for saris and wedding gowns to bolts of embroidered cotton, you’d be hard-pressed to find a souk more colourful than this one.

Where To Shop

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gO lOCal Dubai is home to a number of stellar designers whose collections have careered down the runway at fashion weeks around the world. Star of the moment Madiyah Al Sharqi, who is also the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, is celebrated at home and abroad for her statement pieces, feminine separates and dresses. Pick up a Sharqi staple from Symphony (+971 4 310 6904, bysymphony.com) in The Dubai Mall. Also stocked at Symphony is Endemage, an ethnicchic label created by Omani sisters Nadia and Lubna Zakwani.

House of Nomad is another local label elbowing its way inside the wardrobes of the UAE’s fash-pack.

The celebrated newcomer, applauded for its use of Arabic calligraphy throughout its collections, can be found at West LA Boutique (+971 4 388 2828, westlaboutique.com) in Sunset Mall.

Besides the malls, the streets along Jumeirah Beach Road, Al Wasl Road and the surrounding roads are dotted with villas housing local design talent.

You’ll find Dubai fashion star Rami Al Ali (+971 4 394 5607, ramialali. com), whose couture collections have appeared at Paris Fashion Week, in villa 697 on Al Wasl Road. Book a consultation or simply scour the rails for haute-couture inspiration.

Superstar designer Ezra (+971 4 395 5385, ezrafashiondesign.com), best known for his dreamy, extravagant gowns, creates his masterpieces from his atelier in Dubai’s Jumeirah 3 (villa 746, Al Wasl Road). With Britney Spears and Michelle Rodriguez for clients, Ezra is a must-visit boutique for ladies who are looking for fivestar quality couture.

Design 971 (thedubaimall.com) at The Dubai Mall showcases wares from some of the region’s most exciting designers, such as Dima Ayad and Lilian Afshar. You’ll find it in The Village, a precinct within the mall with a retractable roof that opens in the cooler months for an outdoor feel.

To coincide with this month’s Fashion

Forward Dubai, a biannual event celebrating the best in Middle Eastern design, Galeries Lafayette at The Dubai Mall is hosting a FFWD PopUp Shop (+971 4 339 9933, galeries lafayette-dubai.com) in its first-floor womenswear department until 24 October. Featuring a curated selection for autumn/winter ’16 from the likes of Beirut-based Bashar Assaf, Central Saint Martins graduate Andraya Farrag and Dubai-based Dalia Ali, it’s the perfect place to discover the region’s hottest up-and-coming design talent.

Open-aiR Retail aFFaiR If you’re seeking sunshine with your shopping, The Beach (+971 80 063 7227, thebeach.ae) in Dubai Marina boasts a bunch of cool stores selling holiday staples for young and old, alongside coastal views and a vast esplanade. Refuel at one of the many restaurants here – Eat Greek is a popular casual eatery – before making your way along JBR to Boutique 1 (+971 4 425 7888, boutique1.com),

the aforementioned retailer’s second outpost in the city.

Peppered along a 1,200m stretch of pavement on Al Wasl Road, BoxPark (+971 4 317 3999, boxpark.ae) is a pop-up mall made up of shipping containers. Visitors will find 220 industrial containers selling everything from streetwear to ice cream. Cool stores to look out for include Urbanist (+971 55 381 4552, urbaniststore. com), which has contemporary fashion and homewares from international brands and Middle Eastern designers, and Human & Beings (+971 50 918 3330, which stocks designers from countries such as Italy, Japan, Australia and Portugal, all handpicked for their inspiring backstories.

Keep walking along Al Wasl Road and you’ll come to Al Wasl Square, where edgy retail stores, bakeries and beauty parlours are bunched together for a short but sweet shopping experience. Sister property City Walk (citywalk.ae) also offers a central alfresco location in which the family can shop, dine, play and pamper.

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What

DO Chapter FIVE

Think you’re only here for the sun and shopping? Think again. Dubai boasts ample attractions that you’ll want to experience before heading home. The fun starts here

SEE thE cIty From thE Sky Skydiving is on every daredevil’s bucket list and there’s no better place to do it than here. Skydive Dubai (+971 4 377 8888, skydivedubai.ae) has one of the world’s most spectacular tandem jumps over the iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Or if you’d rather not leap out of a plane, iFly Dubai (+971 4 231 6292, theplaymania.com) lets you defy gravity in its amazing indoor wind tunnel.

For more sedate sightseeing, Seawings (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) offers a range of scenic joy flights, including the Dubai Creek Silver tour, a 40-minute ‘dock to dock’ seaplane excursion above the historic Creek, Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa and more.

If VIP bling is more your thing, nothing beats hovering around town in a helicopter. Fly High Helicopter Services (advance booking via City

Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) offers 15- or 25-minute tours from its helipad at Atlantis, The Palm, as well as helicopter transfers so you can really arrive in style. Meanwhile, Heli Dubai (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) takes off from Dubai Festival City, with 12- or 22-minute aerial tours over Dubai’s stratosphere-nudging skyscrapers for an unforgettable experience.

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About thIS chAptEr As you’ll read, there is much to do in Dubai, and as such we’ve ensured our recommendations include plenty of options for both big and little kids. By far the best way to get your bearings – and to see all of the city – is by starting out with a City Sightseeing Dubai hop-on, hop-off bus tour (see Top Of The Tours for booking details). Then it’s all about ticking off that to-do list…

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What To Do

DXB City Expert prEVIouS pAgE: Wild Wadi Water Park thIS pAgE: IMG Worlds Of Adventure

SEE AmAzIng SEA lIFE Some of Dubai’s best family-friendly attractions can be found under the sea.

Home to over 65,000 marine animals, The Lost Chambers Aquarium (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm is sure to mesmerise young and old. There are over 20 exhibits housing creatures from all over the world. Visitors can also book a behindthe-scenes tour or swim, snorkel or dive with sharks.

Meanwhile, The Dubai Mall is home to the Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), one of the largest suspended aquariums on the planet. Marvel at over 140 species of sea life, including more than 300 sharks and rays, or rent some scuba gear and sidle up alongside the inhabitants of this 10-million-litre tank.

No diving experience is required. At the zoo part of this aquatic attraction you’ll get to see the likes of penguins, otters, giant spider crabs and King Croc, who weighs in at 750kg. The Animal Encounter Experiences, meanwhile, provide behind-the-scenes access to otters, rays or saltwater crocodiles. The meet-and-greet sessions take place every hour, daily, from 11am to 10pm.

And if you’ve always dreamed of swimming with dolphins, you can do exactly that at Dolphin Bay (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), the 4.5-hectare dolphin conservation centre at Atlantis, The Palm. Home to a family of friendly Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins, you can take your pick from five different dolphin experiences.

chIll out At A SpA Feeling frazzled after all that fun?

Dubai is home to some of the world’s most luxurious spas that are renowned for their ultra-indulgent treatments.

One of the very best is Amara Spa (+ 971 4 602 1234, dubai.park.hyatt. com) at the beautiful Park Hyatt Dubai, which stands aside the city’s historic creek. This magical setting features a 25m pool and eight luxury suites replete with private gardens and tropical rain showers, three of which are designed for couples. If it’s just the two of you in town, why not embark on Amara’s Couple’s Journey?

Spread over a leisurely 180 minutes, you’ll be pampered to the point of sheer bliss via a body scrub, body wrap, massage and facial. It’s priced at Dhs3,000 per happy couple.

Over at the world’s tallest hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai (+971 4 414 0000, jwmarriott marquisdubai.com), you’ll find the sublime Saray Spa, which also offers customised treatments for two. The Saray Spa Ultimate VIP Journey is three hours of serenity, into which you’re eased with a bath of your choice (try the milk option). You’ll then be treated to an aromatherapy massage and signature facial, administered on side-by-side treatment tables in the wonderful VIP Suite. This journey to remember costs Dhs2,380.

Jiva Spa (+971 4 438 3100, taj. tajhotels.com) at Taj Dubai is celebrating the Festival of Spice this month. Try the Indian spice-infused Jivaniya ritual, which first sees your skin scrubbed of its impurities before a soothing facial leaves your face all aglow. This two-hour treatment usually costs Dhs870, but it’s priced at Dhs495 for October. You’ll have time to ponder what to do with your savings while enjoying the post-treatment tea.

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ASk A locAl Laura Roberts Journalist One place that always impresses is Vantage (+971 4 377 2356, vantageloungedubai.com).

Step out onto its shisha terrace of an evening and you’ll see why it’s called Vantage. Look east and see the beautifully illuminated Burj Al Arab, while to the north Burj Khalifa twinkles in the distance.

FEEl on top oF thE world Ascending the world’s tallest tower is high on most visitors’ must-do lists, and At The Top, Burj Khalifa (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com) doesn’t disappoint.

A high-speed elevator delivers you to the observation deck on level 124 – 452m above the ground – where floor-to-ceiling glass offers 360° views.

You can then walk up a spiral, glasswalled staircase to level 125, where viewfinders provide a virtual tour of the city from the perspective of a falcon. Premium-ticket holders, meanwhile, can also visit the level 148 observation deck – 555 metres up. Open daily until 11pm, advance booking is recommended.

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gEt wEt And wIld Water babies are spoilt for choice as Dubai has two world-class water parks offering something for all ages. Located in front of the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab, Wild Wadi (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is the more manageable of the two, with over 30 rides and attractions. From kid-friendly slides and the relaxing lazy river to adrenaline-fuelled surfing experiences and the truly terrifying Jumeirah Sceirah, it’s impossible not to have fun at this fantastic park.

Over on Palm Jumeirah you’ll find Aquaventure (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures. com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) at Atlantis, The Palm. It comprises 17 hectares of heart-stopping slides, rides, pools and interconnecting waterways, along with a huge kids’ play area, exhilarating zip line, pristine private beach, private cabanas and the not-so-small matter of Shark Lagoon, where you can handfeed gentle rays. Celebrating your birthday while in Dubai? Register online at atlantisthepalm.com for a free Aquaventure day pass to use anytime during your birthday week.

Due to open on 31 October, LEGOLAND Water Park (legoland. ae) is part of Dubai Parks and Resorts, which consists of three separate theme parks including LEGOLAND Dubai.

Designed for kids aged two to 12, the troops can slip, slide and splash their way through 15 LEGO-inspired water slides, raft rides and pools. We especially like the sound of Build-ARaft-River, where you can construct your own LEGO raft and float around the lazy river, while the DUPLO area has slides, rides and play areas for toddlers. LEGOLAND Dubai and LEGOLAND Water Park are classed as two separate parks, each requiring their own ticket; the two-park combo ticket allows you to move freely between both parks and offers the best value for families. Valid for one day, it costs Dhs395 for adults and Dhs350 for kids. Otherwise, a one-day ticket for

the water park costs Dhs240 for adults and Dhs205 for children. Under-threes get free entry to LEGOLAND Dubai, but must pay a small fee (yet to be announced) to enter the water park.

On a smaller scale – and therefore perfect for toddlers – is Splash ‘n’ Party (+971 4 388 3008, splashnparty.ae), which you’ll find in Al Safa 2, Jumeirah.

Water slides, splash pads and huge buckets that soak those below are all guaranteed to spread a smile on kids’ faces, while parents will be similarly enthused by not being charged an entry fee. Admission for kids is Dhs80 on weekdays and Dhs100 at the weekend.

SoAk up SomE culturE Dubai’s latest architectural marvel is Dubai Opera (+971 4 440 8888,

dubaiopera.com), the dhow-shaped performing-arts theatre in the glittering Downtown district. Hoping to one day become as iconic as the Sydney Opera House, the bow of Dubai Opera contains the auditorium, a rooftop restaurant and sky garden with views of Burj Khalifa and The Dubai Fountain, while the elongated hull area houses waiting areas. Spanish tenor Plácido Domingo set the tone at the opening gala on 31 August for an impressive inaugural season, which includes more than 50 shows ranging from operas and ballets to musical theatre and familyfriendly magic shows. Check out our pick of this month’s lineup on pages 12-13, or view the whole programme on the Dubai Opera website.

With a keen focus on contemporary art, Dubai has a burgeoning art scene

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ASk A locAl Greg Roberts Teacher When friends visit I love to take them to the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood in Bur Dubai. It’s incredible how quickly the noise from the busy streets disappears and you’re taken back in time to old Arabia. Stop

by XVA Gallery (+971 4 353 5383, xvagallery.com) and visit the Arabian Tea House (+971 4 353 5071, arabianteahouse.co) for a lovely cuppa.

clockwISE From top lEFt: Dubai Opera; LEGOLAND Dubai; XDubai Skatepark

centred around the financial district of DIFC and the industrial area of Al Quoz. The former is home to a dozen spaces including Ayyam Gallery (+971 4 439 2395, ayyamgallery. com), which promotes emerging and established artists from the Middle East, and The Empty Quarter (+971 4 323 1210, theemptyquarter.com), the city’s only gallery space devoted exclusively to fine-art photography.

The hippest art hub, Alserkal Avenue (+971 50 556 9797, alserkalavenue.ae), can be found in Al Quoz. There are around 15 galleries housed in converted warehouses, including Mojo (+971 4 347 7388, themojogallery.com), Leila Heller Gallery (+971 56 831 3520, leilahellergallery.com) and Gulf Photo Plus (+971 4 380 8545,

gulfphotoplus.com). There’s also a summer-long pop-up called Nadi Al Quoz, running until the end of October, with free yoga sessions every Friday from 4.30pm, and free talks from Dubai-based artists, musicians, writers and anthropologists every Saturday from 6.30pm to 8.30pm.

Down near the Creek in Bur Dubai, Majlis Gallery (+971 4 353 6233, themajlisgallery.com) is also well worth a visit. It’s Dubai’s oldest art gallery, established over 25 years ago in a windtower house in the Al Fahidi district, with regional and international artists.

bEyond ShoppIng At thE dubAI mAll The Dubai Mall has a host of activities to keep the whole tribe entertained.

Gamers of all ages will love SEGA

Republic (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a huge indoor theme park with 15 rides including a roller-coaster, and hundreds of high-tech games. Little visitors will love KidZania (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabianadventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506), a sprawling mini-city that allows children to dabble in 80 different careers, from pilot to police officer. And aviation enthusiasts aged nine and over can fly the world’s largest passenger plane at the Emirates A380 Experience (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com), a state-of-theart Airbus flight simulator.

What To Do

SwIng Into ActIon Dubai has become a major golf destination and boasts an impressive collection of high-calibre courses.

Emirates Golf Club (+971 4 380 1234, dubaigolf.com) is an old favourite, with two 18-hole par-72 championship courses and a clubhouse inspired by Bedouin tents. The Majlis course, home to the Omega Dubai Desert Classic, a prestigious fixture on the European Tour, has open horizons and stretches of scrubby sand along with more traditional bunkers, while the Faldo, redesigned by Nick Faldo in 2005, has a wadi (valley) running through it, which is sure to challenge first-timers.

Jumeirah Golf Estates (+971 4 818 2000, jumeirahgolfestates.com) has two Greg Norman-designed championship courses matched by excellent club facilities. Inspired by the great parkland courses of Europe and North America, the Earth course is home to the DP World Tour Championship, the grand finale of the European Tour’s Race to Dubai. The undulating topography of the Fire course, meanwhile, demands a strategic approach.

If your game is not quite at the level of a Rory McIlroy, sharpen your skills at the more forgiving The Track (+971 4 381 3733, meydanhotels.com) at The Meydan Hotel. It’s a great ninehole course offering five different tee positions (perfect if you’re a beginner).

Open daily from 6.30am to 11pm, membership is not available so the pay-and-play policy (from Dhs175 for nine holes) means you’re always likely to secure a tee time.

rIdE A rollEr-coAStEr Opened in August, IMG Worlds of Adventure (+971 4 403 8888, imgworlds.com) is the world’s largest indoor theme park. It has four unique zones – Cartoon Network, Marvel, Lost Valley–Dinosaur Adventure and IMG Boulevard – under one roof and more than 20 rides and attractions, including a first-of-its-kind Hulk 3D ride with 18 IMAX projectors and a genuinely terrifying Haunted Hotel, which you

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need to be aged 15 or over to enter.

Youngsters will love the Ben 10 5D cinema experience and live stage shows featuring characters from LazyTown, while adrenaline junkies should make a beeline for The Velociraptor roller-coaster, which hits speeds of up to 100km in just 2.5 seconds, and Spider-Man Doc Ock’s Revenge, a 400m coaster with spinning carriages.

Of the 28 food outlets, we can heartily recommend the Indian street food at Samosa House (be sure to nab one of the tuk-tuk tables), while Tony’s Skydeck, based on Iron Man’s alter ego, serves upmarket steak and seafood with brilliant views over the park. There are also 25 retail outlets stocking plenty of original merchandise that you won’t find anywhere else.

Tickets cost Dhs300 for adults and Dhs250 for children.

Throwing open its gates on 31 October is Dubai Parks and Resorts (+971 4 820 0000, dubaiparksandresorts.com), a USD3.6 billion development in Jebel Ali with nearly 100 rides and attractions across three theme parks. The Hollywoodinspired Motiongate Dubai features 27 rides and attractions including roller-coasters and multimedia dark rides based on characters from blockbuster films such as Shrek, Ghostbusters and The Hunger Games.

Bollywood Parks Dubai has rides and attractions inspired by nine colourful Bollywood films and up to 30 live shows a day across six stages. The 850seat Rajmahal Theatre, meanwhile, will have a separately ticketed Broadwaystyle, Bollywood-themed musical.

Lastly, LEGOLAND Dubai (which adjoins LEGOLAND Water Park) has six themed lands with 40 rides, shows and attractions, and 15,000 LEGO models built using more than 60 million bricks. The entire development will be connected by a dining precinct called Riverland Dubai. One-day single-park tickets range from Dhs240 to Dhs330 for adults and Dhs205 to Dhs280 for kids. Multi-park tickets range from Dhs480 (for one day) to Dhs890 (four days’ validity) for adults and Dhs430 to Dhs790 for kids.

DXB City Expert

gEt on your bIkE Cycling is proving ever popular in the emirate, and the European-style bikehire service Byky (bykystations.com) is the best way to explore the city on two wheels. There are roughly 16 stations dotted around Downtown, Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah.

First, you need to register with your credit-card details online, at a rental station or by downloading the Nextbike app to your smartphone. Then a unique code is sent to your mobile to unlock the bike and you’re good to go.

To really stretch your legs, head to Al Qudra Cycling Track, the world’s longest purpose-built cycling track, which loops around the desert dunes near Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa. You can hire bikes from Trek Bikes (+971 4 832 7377, trekbikes.ae) at the start of the track.

comE on, Jump to It A trampolining trend is currently sweeping the city, with three fantastic facilities to choose from. Bounce (+971 4 321 1400, bounce.ae) in Al Quoz is Dubai’s original indoor trampoline park and has more than 100 interconnected trampolines, along with wall running, foam pits, dodgeball, a slam-dunk area and a flight academy where experts can teach you how to jump, somersault and do stunts.

In the same neighbourhood, Flip Out (600 567 568, flipout.ae) boasts more than 200 interconnecting trampolines and 10 trampolinebased attractions, including the Double Decker Kids’ Arena – which has smaller mats and custom springs to make the trampolines extra safe for kids and toddlers.

Meanwhile, Jump Boxx (+971 4 288 5744, jump-boxx.com) in Uptown Mirdif has over 120 interconnecting trampolines and a dedicated kids’ court for three- to five-year-olds to jump at their own pace. There are also activities such as dodgeball and basketball, plus ladies-only sessions with all-female staff and a live DJ every Wednesday evening from 4pm to 10pm.

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What To Do

hIt thE bEAch If you’re staying in a hotel without its own private beach, but a dose of sea and sand is high on your holiday wish list, head down to one of Dubai’s many beautiful public beaches.

Backed by a low-rise collection of restaurants, cafés and boutiques, and featuring a winding walkway dotted with food stalls and kids’ playgrounds, The Beach at JBR (800 637 227, thebeach.ae) is one of the most popular spots along the Arabian Gulf. There are excellent changing facilities with showers, all manner of activities to enjoy (from beach football to early morning yoga), and you can rent a sunbed with an umbrella and towel for Dhs110 per day.

Another firm favourite is the stretch of sand running the length of Umm Suqeim known as Kite Beach, thanks to its popularity with kite-surfers (you can sign up for lessons, too). It boasts a promenade with a handful of cool cafés, changing facilities and showers, a jogging track, beach tennis, water sports and the XDubai Skatepark, but no sunbed or brolly rental.

tAkE to thE hIgh SEAS Sailing and yachting are popular pastimes here, and cruising past The Palm towards the iconic Burj Al Arab at sunset is one of the most memorable ways to experience Dubai.

Deep-sea fishing is another big draw, with species such as king mackerel and barracuda tempting anglers.

First Yacht (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures. com) specialises in tailor-made luxury yacht and catamaran charters and private fishing trips, as well as powerboat rides and romantic dinner cruises for two. Sea Hunters (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com) is another recommended operator that can organise deep-sea fishing tours, luxury yacht and catamaran charters, and flashy speedboat cruises all around Palm Jumeirah. The perfect way to feel the breeze this summer.

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All thE Fun oF thE FountAInS At the foot of Burj Khalifa is a 30-acre lake, in which stands the world’s largest dancing fountain. The Dubai Fountain has multiple jets spread across the lake, which shoot water 500ft into the air – about the height of a 50-storey building – while ‘dancing’ to the music. Shows are daily at 1pm and 1.30pm (1.30pm and 2pm on Fridays) and every 30 minutes from 6pm to 11pm. Bag a table on the terrace of a lakeside restaurant (see Where To Eat), watch for free from the Waterfront Promenade, just outside the entrance to The Dubai Mall, or see it in style aboard one of the abras (traditional Arabic boats), which sail as close to the action as possible. Tickets cost Dhs65 per person and can be purchased from a counter on the Waterfront Promenade or from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

ExpErIEncE Snow And IcE While a winter wonderland in a desert city sounds fantastical, it does exist in Dubai. Located in Mall of the Emirates, Ski Dubai (advance booking via +971 4 303 4888, arabian-adventures.com or City Sightseeing Dubai kiosks at all major malls, +971 4 316 7506) is the go-to place for skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing or just throwing snowballs.

Clothing and equipment are available for hire, and there are lessons for budding skiers aged three and up, and boarders aged eight and over. Don’t miss the free penguin parades, daily at 2pm, 4pm, 6pm and 8pm.

Dubai’s other mega-mall has its own penguins, too, albeit plastic ones. Dubai Ice Rink (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabian-adventures.com), the Olympic-sized rink at The Dubai Mall, has public sessions for beginner and intermediate skaters, as well as snowfall sessions with a live DJ every Tuesday at 6pm and 8pm. Penguin Pal skating aids are available for little ones measuring a minimum of 1m tall, while there are Snowmen for adults and children over 12 who are unsteady on their skates. One-on-one and semiprivate lessons can also be arranged.

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What To Do prEVIouS pAgE: Ray feeding at Atlantis, The Palm lEFt: The Green Planet

bE At onE wIth nAturE Dubai Butterfly Garden (+971 4 422 8902, dubaibutterflygarden.com) is a fluttery attraction unlike any other in the city. There are nine air-conditioned domes filled with thousands of plants, flowers and butterflies from around the world, along with a butterfly and insect museum. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, it’s located in Al Barsha South, next to the 2,000 sq m Dubai Miracle Garden – which, in the winter months, is home to an incredible display of 100 million flowers. Tickets cost Dhs50 (free for children under two).

Newly opened at City Walk in Jumeirah, The Green Planet (thegreenplanetdubai.com) is the region’s first bio-dome. Flooded with natural light, the five-level glass building recreates the ecosystem of a tropical forest with over 3,000 plants and animals and the world’s largest indoor man-made tree as its centrepiece (because, hey, this is Dubai, after all). While the 25m tree is fake, it is life-sustaining in that real plants have been planted all over it, which will creep and grow across its branches. As you slowly descend from the top of the dome via a winding path, you’ll encounter exotic animals such as toucans, macaws, porcupines and even a sloth. Open from 10am to 10pm (midnight on weekends), tickets cost Dhs95 for adults and Dhs70 for two- to 12-year-olds.

SEE A moVIE wIth A dIFFErEncE A trip to the cinema takes on a whole new dimension in Dubai.

VOX Cinemas (+971 6 0059 9905, voxcinemas.com) at Mall of the Emirates has 24 screens including a multisensory 4DX theatre that adds moving seats and effects like

DXB City Expert

rain and lightning; the first laser IMAX in the Middle East; and a colourful kids’ cinema. You can even swap popcorn for a gourmet duck burger at Vox Theatre by Rhodes, which combines luxury seats and service with a menu devised by Michelin-starred chef Gary Rhodes.

A luxurious experience also awaits at Reel Cinemas (+971 4 449 1902, reelcinemas.ae) in The Dubai Mall.

The 22-screen multiplex includes four lavish Platinum Movie Suites with just 36 seats. After sinking into your reclining leather chair and snuggling down with your pillow and blanket, press the call button and your personal butler will appear with food and drinks throughout the film. These swish suites can also be found at the 10-screen cinemas at City Walk in Jumeirah and The Beach at JBR. Something unique for kids, cinemawise, is The Dome Box (800 637 227, thedomeboxdubai.ae) at BoxPark on Al Wasl Road. It’s a dome-shaped theatre with a 360° screen that plays short ‘edutainment’ films. Instead of seats there are beanbags – and leaning posts for adults. Each movie lasts roughly 30 minutes.

gEt on trAck Petrolheads can do more than just drool at Dubai’s legion of supercars.

Slip behind the wheel of a single-seater F3 race car, McLaren, Audi TT or R8 supercar at Dubai Autodrome (advance bookings via +971 4 303 4992, arabianadventures.com). Track experiences combine classroom and behind-thewheel training from a professional racing driver, before you’re let loose to do a few laps on your own – guaranteed to get your blood pumping fast. The complex is also home to Kartdrome, which has indoor and outdoor tracks that are suitable for big kids and little ones aged seven and up. The 1.2km outdoor circuit features 17 corners, a tunnel and bridge, while the 500m indoor track allows up to 10 karters to race at any one time. Plus, the karts are equipped with timers so you can test your mettle against your mates.

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Chapter SIX

WHERE TO

go As the majority of Dubai’s alfresco clubs and rooftop venues take a break over the summer, you’ll find there’s still plenty to keep you entertained when the sun goes down.

Get your glad rags on – we’re going out

For the beSt DJS 360° (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 406 8999) is one of the longestrunning clubs in Dubai, and boasts panoramic views across the city from its perch in the middle of the Arabian Gulf. With a stunning deck and indoor nightclub, it hosts resident DJs every Friday for your deep-house kicks, while rotating promoters on Thursdays bring in soulful house, UK bass and dance classics.

A cavernous venue on the 41st floor of Media One Hotel, Level 41 (taxi: Media One Hotel, +971 4 427 1000) hosts pop-up club nights and live music.

From techno to drum and bass, and hiphop to house, the back-to-basics rave

cave hosts the city’s cooler promoters – meaning a clued-up crowd who aren’t afraid to cut loose on the dance floor.

Since launching four years ago, Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE (taxi: Golden Tulip Al Jazira Hotels & Resort, Ghantoot, +971 51 133 3400) has set the benchmark high for house-music parties in the country. Thousands of glamazons make the 30-minute journey towards Abu Dhabi for this Balearic beach party. The lineups are always cutting-edge and big on the house market: think Ibiza icons like Jamie Jones, Dixon and Marco Carola.

The first real beach party in town, Nasimi (taxi: Atlantis, The Palm, +971 4 426 2626) has hosted everyone from Basement Jaxx to Avicii over the

years and can hold several thousand dancers on its sandy beach. This month, The Rize Group Presents: DIP brings you the city’s only R&B and hip-hop beach party on 7 October. German deep-house star Robin Schulz hits the decks on 13 October, followed by Ukrainian electro- and progressivehouse master Juicy M on 27 October for the big Halloween bash. The next night, Balearic beats take over at Ibiza icon Pukka Up’s Pukka Up Beach Party.

Continuing with the beach-party theme, Zero Gravity (taxi: Skydive Dubai, +971 4 399 0009) is the city’s current hot spot. Part beach club, part open-air club and packed every weekend, it has welcomed big names like Paul Van Dyk and Mark Ronson

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About thIS ChApter The UAE weekend is Friday/Saturday. As such, Thursday and Friday nights are usually the busiest across town. The legal age to drink alcohol in Dubai – and enter a nightclub – is 21, and while nowhere employs a seriously strict dress-code policy, you won’t get in if you’re dressed for the beach – no shorts, open-toe sandals or the like in this town, please. We’ve included a taxi reference for you – ask the driver to head here – as most will not know the location of the club or lounge if you say its name only.

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its first season. More recently, it has shifted its focus to homegrown talents.

Movida (taxi: Radisson Royal Hotel, +971 55 174 4449) is one of the city’s regular hot spots. It frequently hosts cameos from established and up-andcoming rappers (including OT Genasis), and has a very commercial hip-hop and mainstream house/EDM soundtrack on the weekend. If you like to see bottles of bubbly with sparklers in them paraded every 20 minutes, this is the club for you.

LADIeS’ NIghtS we Love

alongside more alternative acts like Mr Scruff to play under the stars.

Around 6,000 partygoers will hit the sand on 21 October for DXBeach, with Fatboy Slim headlining, while the annual Monster Halloween Party descends on 27 October.

Nikki Beach (taxi: Pearl Jumeirah, +971 4 376 6162) is the city’s newest beach club and the 13th of its kind to open worldwide. Like its stylish global counterparts in Miami and Marbella, the Dubai outpost has a host of resident DJs and attracts a beautiful crowd who come to party from early afternoon around blue-tiled pools surrounded by white daybeds and cabanas with billowing drapes.

With a panoramic view of Dubai’s skyline, White Dubai (taxi: The Meydan, +971 50 443 0933) is the sister lounge and club to the Beirut original. And like its Lebanese sibling, it’s high on the glam factor, with a good-looking crowd arriving around midnight every Thursday, Friday and Saturday for the hip-hop and EDM soundtrack. And, of course, the stunning view back into the city.

Vii Club (taxi: Conrad Hotel, +971 50 169 6777) boasts ultra-glamorous mahogany-finished walls, deep-plum furniture and a customised ceiling that flashes in sync to the music, as well as a ‘secret garden’ terrace that’s a stunning spot to kick off your night. Head here on Thursdays for the HITS night, which sees DJ Kennedy spin mashups and classic hits from the Eighties and Nineties, interwoven with the biggest singles to date, from 11pm to 3am.

From the shores of the south of France comes the VIP Room (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, +971 52 881 8888), bringing with it a reputation for hosting big urban acts and a celebrity clientele. The Dubai outpost does much the same, with hiphop and house sharing deck duties on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

Another imported chain, Provocateur (taxi: The Four Seasons Dubai, + 971 55 211 8222) began life in New York as a bottle-service club that catered to high-end house-music lovers. Fittingly, the Dubai branch welcomed 4/4 heavyweights like Seth Troxler and White Isle favourite Solomon during

Like Friday brunch, ‘ladies’ night’ is something of a Dubai institution.

Usually staged on Tuesday nights, but now increasingly popping up at least somewhere throughout the week, the nights are so named because ladies get to drink for free, in some places to a limitless degree.

An imported London chain, Mahiki (taxi: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, +971 4 380 773) has been a big hit in the UAE since launching three years ago and has a neat, Polynesianthemed twist on drinks you can share with your girlfriends. Ladies can enjoy unlimited free drinks all night every Tuesday, as long as you’re through the door before 11pm.

An equally buzzy night – for both girls and guys – can be had at Barasti (taxi: Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, +971 4 399 3333).

This perennially popular beach bar treats ladies to complimentary bubbles every Tuesday from 7pm until 11pm, with Dhs150 buckets of hops for boys.

Located on the 71st and 72nd floors of the world’s tallest hotel, Vault (taxi: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, +971 50 738 1388) has a futuristic feel, thanks to its sleek décor and floor-toceiling windows showcasing Dubai’s Blade Runner-esque skyline. Ladies can enjoy three complimentary drinks here every Tuesday from 7pm, while the resident DJ mixes an eclectic selection of tunes – from R&B and house music through to 1980s and 1990s old-school.

With a rooftop bar overlooking the Dubai skyline and Burj Khalifa on

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one side, and the Arabian Gulf on the other, Mercury Lounge (taxi: Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach; +971 4 270 7777) is a top spot to soak up those holiday vibes. Every Wednesday from 8pm until 10pm ladies receive two free glasses of bubbles and Mediterranean canapés to boot.

If you’re after something more substantial, the Wednesday-night offering at Ruth’s Chris Steak House (+971 4 454 9538, ruthschris.ae) is hard to beat. Girls are granted four glasses of grape when they dine and 50% off the menu of signature steaks and Southern-flavoured seafood specialities. It’s incredibly popular so be sure to book ahead.

For SomethINg DIFFereNt We’re not sure why it hasn’t been done before, but Stereo Arcade (taxi: Double Tree by Hilton, +971 52 618 2424) combines music and a stereo arcade (with over 50,000 games) as well as a slushy machine, hot-dog stand and more. Fun aside, the hi-tech club plays Eighties and Nineties hits every weekend.

For something with a real twist, push the bookcase in the lobby of the Dusit Thani hotel. It will open to reveal a hidden door, on which you must knock to gain entry to the Nippon Bottle Company (taxi: Dusit Thani, +971 4 357 0779), a Japanese speakeasy. It offers an impressive list of Japanese drinks, which are now considered to be some of the best in the world.

Also tucked away on the ground floor of a five-star hotel – in this case, the Conrad Dubai – is Little Black Door (+971 55 623 1620, knocktoenter.com). You’ll have no problem spotting it, though – the ‘little black door’ is actually huge – and inside you’ll find a classy, clubstyle lounge, with crystal chandeliers hanging from leather-clad ceilings, opulent furnishing and distressedbrick walls. The resident DJs play neo-soul and classic jazz, while you nibble on Mediterranean bar bites and sip fabulous cocktails.

Hobo (taxi: Nassima Royal Hotel, +971 55 927 0815) is another cool place with a secretive, speakeasy feel.

To find it you’ll have to venture through the fourth floor of the car park to the rear of the Nassima Royal Hotel, where you’ll find a small sign flanked by dapper doormen. They’ll lead you inside, where mixologists stir up a storm and DJs Fredrick Stone and Jean B spin vinyl records – no mixing by button here, thankfully.

With an intimate, underground vibe, it’s open Mondays and Saturdays only, from 11pm.

At the opposite end of the scale is Gold on 27 (goldon27.com). On the 27th floor of Burj Al Arab and bedecked in gold leaf, there is nothing low-key about this place, but it does offer slick views, top mixologists and a stellar lineup of DJs. More importantly, book via the specialist app (download it from the App Store) and your reservation will be activated as you approach in a taxi, so you’ll gain automatic entry to the otherwise off-limits hotel, bypassing any potentially awkward moments.

the beSt LIve muSIC Live music abounds at the aptly titled The Music Room (taxi: Majestic Tower Hotel, +971 4 501 2534) in Bur Dubai. Promising local – and frequently international – bands, this spacious venue attracts a knowledgeable crowd.

Musically open-minded, it’s hosted local metal giants like Nervecell, Bon Jovi tribute acts, and alternative DJs like drum-and-bass kingpin Goldie and jazz-funk troubadour Quantic.

Staying on this side of town, Club7 (taxi: Park Regis Kris Kin Hotel, +971 4 377 1210) is a popular haunt where the music is as colourful as the psychedelic-tinged décor. Popular with locals and tourists of all nationalities, it’s a great place for a spot of cheesy, affordable fun. Another old-timer to check out on this side of town is Marines Club (taxi: SeaView Hotel, +971 4 355 8080), where the resident rock band ensures the mostly Filipino crowd keeps rocking out until the wee small hours.

Keeping with the rock vibe, known across the globe, the Hard Rock Café

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DXB City Expert opeNINg pAge: Blue Marlin Ibiza UAE. prevIouS pAgeS, From LeFt: VIP Room; Mahiki. rIght: Movida

(taxi: Festival City, +971 4 232 8900) is a great spot to enjoy live rock music, and Dubai’s outlet is no different.

The original Hard Rock Dubai caused something of a local stir when it was demolished a few years back, but the new venue in Dubai Festival City has a whole host of musical memorabilia – including a bolero jacket worn by the late Prince and Mick Fleetwood’s Tama drums – it’s as close as you’ll get to an all-American rock bar.

Embracing all things African, Nairobi-owned KIZA (taxi: Emirates Financial Towers, +971 4 453 9038) is the city’s first authentic African lounge and restaurant. Boasting its very own Afro-jazz troupe, The KIZA band shakes things up every Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, guaranteed to inject a bit of soul into your evening.

If it’s a true musical mashup you’re seeking, head to Indie (taxi: DIFC Gate Village 5, +971 55 455 6106) and enjoy an eclectic fusion of funk, house and classic indie tunes.

Newcomer Muze (taxi: Souk Al Bahar, +971 52 297 2097) in Downtown Dubai is a welcome addition to the city’s live-music scene, with an eclectic lineup that includes Latin, Arabic fusion and world music. Resident bands include the all-Cuban Son de Verdad, while jazz and soul singer Rouba and her band take to the stage every Friday.

The lounge also does mean Mexicanfusion food and cocktails, plus there are three free drinks for ladies every Friday. Open Wednesday to Friday from 8pm to 2am, it’s best to phone ahead to reserve a table.

Wednesday nights mean jazz time at New York spinoff Serafina (taxi: Souk Al Bahar, +971 4 363 8447),

overlooking the impressive Dubai Fountain. Tuck into authentic Italian cuisine while Lebanese brothers Rony and Elie Afif keep you entertained with their musical brilliance – even better if you happen to head here on one of the nights that local celebrity Hamdan Al Abri joins the duo.

An upbeat eatery boasting some great live music is Jazz@Pizza Express (taxi: Movenpick, JLT, +971 4 441 6342), which – you’ve guessed it – serves up pizza and jazz. With different themed sessions including open-mic nights and a music-centric Friday brunch, it’s good value for money and a great spot for a jam.

For a taste of music, Big Easystyle, head to Nola (taxi: Armanda Tower, JLT, +971 3 998 155) and enjoy entertainment from a live saxophonist every Friday at this New Orleans-inspired secret.

For the hipsters, it’s got to be Tribeca (taxi: JA Ocean View Hotel, +971 4 814 5599), where the relaxed vibe comes with a side of chilled-out music, perfectly complemented by an accompanying glass of organic grape.

SIppINg uNDer the StArS For eight months of the year, Dubai is blessed with gorgeous weather, which means there’s no shortage of excellent alfresco lounges. Barasti (taxi: Le Méridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina, +971 4 399 333) has been ruling the roost for 20 years, pulling in thousands of revellers every weekend. It combines live music, daily sunbathing sessions, a sand-betweenyour-toes dance floor on the beach and more serving stations than you can shake an empty glass at.

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With Burj Khalifa basically in its back garden, Treehouse (taxi: Taj Dubai, +971 4 438 3100) has unbeatable views from its leafy, thirdfloor terrace. Wooden floors, comfy sofas and an open-air fireplace create an intimate lounge-bar feel. However, the music grows as the night goes on, with DJ Tayllor playing an eclectic mix of commercial and deep-house tunes.

If you fancy your drink with a side of vertigo, 40 Kong (taxi: H Hotel, +971 4 355 8896) is your best bet. The rooftop lounge on the 40th floor offers sweeping views across the city from its Sheikh Zayed Road location, and comes with some of the best DJs in the city, including deep-house expert KaY TeK. Another elevated alfresco drink can be enjoyed at Pure Sky Lounge (taxi: Hilton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 111). Decked out in white, blue and plenty of glass, the 35th-floor lounge offers stunning views out to sea, alongside a very cool soundtrack.

Bliss Lounge (taxi: Sheraton Jumeirah Beach Resort, +971 4 399 5533) is one of Dubai Marina’s best outdoor options. The beachside lounge offers excellent sea views from one of the city’s most high-profile stretches of shoreline and, at night, it turns into an excellent open-air club with some of the best resident DJs in Dubai dropping soul-infused house music.

While most of Dubai’s nightlife has shifted south, there are still plenty of panoramic spots at the top of town.

TOMO Views (+971 4 357 7888, tomo.ae), in the pyramid-shaped Raffles Dubai, hosts daily sunset sessions where you can sip creative cocktails to the tune of sophisticated deep house with sun-kissed disco vibes and euphoric soaring strings until 1am.

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#HOLIDAY

From amazing architecture to sweeping sandscapes, you’ll have lots of memories of your time in Dubai to share via social media. Here are some of our favourite Instagram snaps of the city. Be sure to share your #VisitDubai and #MyDubai moments, too

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4. Photo credit: @burjkhalifa The world’s tallest tower certainly makes an impression.

5. Photo credit: @findsalt #findsalt’s silver Airstream at Kite Beach and you’ll be justly rewarded.

6. Photo credit: @sidharthvithaldas The striking design of the new W Dubai hotel is inspired by the city’s energy.

7. Photo credit: @lastexitdubai

1. Photo credit: @Abdullalbuqaish By day or by night, Dubai Marina always looks spectacular.

2. Photo credit: @toufic.m Adventure awaits on a desert safari with Arabian Adventures.

3. Photo credit: @atlantisthepalm Hit the beach at Dubai’s famous underwater-themed resort.

Refuel at Last Exit, the perfect pit stop between Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

8. Photo credit: @codeko0 The dhow-shaped Dubai Opera is already an Instagram star.

9. Photo credit: @ldotangel Sail away come sunset at the Arabianinspired Madinat Jumeirah.

Friday 1920s Brunch Swing by for an exciting brunch experience on top of the city with spiked classics, live jazz and the finest steak, grape and bubbly.

12.30pm to 3.45pm | From AED 450 per person JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay | T +971 4 414 3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com