THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE
A S BA TAY Y, AT W S OR IX TH SE OV NSE ER S Z $1 IGH ,50 Y 0
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NOVEMBER 2011
Produced in International Media Production Zone
SNOW JOKE
Can Slovakia really cut it as a skiing destination?
Why Croatia will leave you short of superlatives
Cape Crusader
South Africa’s best city unmasked
SHANGHAI
Ian Henderson explores China’s booming metropolis
Into the WIld Where to go for the expedition of a lifetime
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Kanoo World Traveller NOvEmBEr 2011
contents TrAvEL BITES 07 check in
All the latest from the world of travel, from new hotels to must-have gadgets.
19 Where to stay
Choose between all-out luxury and quirky design hotels in Edinburgh.
20 Picture this
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Headturning images you’ll wish you could catch on camera...
25 essential selection
Fancy going on a safari? We round up the best lodges, for a trip of a lifetime.
70 city Guide: caPe toWn
Jade Bremner places the spotlight on Africa’s colourful metropolis.
72 city Guide: melbourne
Is the Oz city deserving of its artistic reputation? Laura Binder thinks so.
75 comPetition
Win a luxurious night’s stay at Six Senses Zighy Bay, worth over $1,500.
76 suite dreams
We fantasise about sun-soaked days by a Fiji beach villa.
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FEATurES 36 croatia Steve Williams waxes lyrical on the the country’s standout sights.
44 slovakia
Skiing, snow-drenched peaks and medieval charm in Tatras.
49 malaysia
Where to go and what to do in southeast Asia’s scenic country.
58 shanGhai Ian Henderson gets to grips with the world’s fastest-growing economy.
64 antiGua Diving, snorkelling, deep-sea fishing and fine catches in crystal clear waters.
On the cover: Masai Mara, Corbis/Arabian Eye.
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Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.
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November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 5
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BE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE THErE
Thailand
AnAntArA BAngkok riverside resort & spA If you can’t decide between an urban or rural retreat this season, Anantara’s brand new opening (November 1) could tick both boxes. Set on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, it’s a mini oasis with bustling Bangkok well within reach – as general manager Francis Zimmerman explains: “people can laze by the river under tropical palms… stroll through gardens that are bursting into bloom… and still easily get in to the heart of Bangkok by hotel shuttle boat in a few minutes.” And when you’ve had enough of the bright lights and busy streets, the resort’s 11-acre riverside gardens are sure to serve as the perfect antithesis. Step inside the hotel and you’ll find equally soothing surrounds, in the form of modern Thai style (makha wood,
Thai silks, etched inscriptions). And, if you want to go all out on your stay, Zimmerman says there’s one can’t-fail choice – the Suan Luang Suite. “The theme is quite unique as it’s based on the famous movie, The King and I,” he says, “it boasts sweeping views and the finest amenities we can offer.” Relaxation seekers, meanwhile, can amble to the hotel’s Mandara spa and choose from an arm-length treatment menu. While, for foodies, there are no less than 10 dining options. But, if you only have time to eat in one? “Step aboard our beautifully restored antique rice barge,” insists Zimmerman. “You can dine on delectable Thai cuisine on our luxe Manohra Dining Cruise, and glide past the city’s famous cultural sites.” bangkok-riverside.anantara.com
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hoTel oPeninGS
new for novemBer
The UAE capital is fast becoming the go-to place, with two brand new hotel openings there just in time for the Formula 1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix. The Westin abu dhabi Golf Resort & Spa opens its doors on November 1 to 172 rooms – all of which boast views of its putting green – and the brand’s signature Westin Heavenly Spa – just the spot to relax after a big day in the city. What’s more, the grand venue plays host to multiple dining venues, from the Moroccanthemed Fairways eatery to the Lemon & Lime lounge. Park hyatt abu dhabi hotel and Villas, meanwhile, is set to be the first resort to open on the city’s much-talked-about Saadiyat Island. Nine kilometres of protected coastline places you in a prime spot for a great beach break (plus myriad water sports), while inside you can take your pick of its 306 rooms, standout suites or beachside villas in which to spend the night. And, for any golfers in the family, the fantastic Saadiyat Beach Golf Club is right next door... If snowier surrounds tickle your fancy, check-in to nira alpina from November 30; the latest Swiss ski hotel to join the hip Design Hotels group. Perched on Switzerland’s snow-coated slopes, the venue’s a modern show of glass and timber, bringing a seriously cool mountain lodge to retreat to post-ski. Once inside, you can snuggle up in cosy spaces and gaze at panoramic views; re-charge your batteries with an alpine feed in one of its two restaurants; or step outside and dine on a starlit terrace (just be sure to wrap up warm).
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Luck of the Irish
If you’re a GCC national with Ireland in your sights, you’ll be pleased to hear that travelling to the Emerald Isle just got a whole lot easier. The Irish government has chosen all those who hail from the Gulf to participate in the country’s new ‘visa-waiver’ programme – which, for the globetrotters among you, means you can now head to the UK, before extending your trip on to the likes of vibrant Dublin or the green pastures of Galway, without the hassle of obtaining another visa. So, what are you waiting for? For more information, visit discoverireland. com/ae
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Food neWS
Table Talk Meal times promise to be a very stylish affair when dining at one of these new city hotspots – now you just have to decide whether to make for London or Dubai. Allow us to tempt you with a taster of each... London’s famed Michelin-starred haunt, hakkasan, opens in Dubai’s Emirates Towers this month – its second UAE venue (to Abu Dhabi) in an ever- expanding web of international outposts. Sit down in its sure-to-be-glamorous venue and savour high-end Cantonese fare, including all-new dishes concocted exclusively for Dubai by Hakkasan Abu Dhabi’s chef de cuisine, in addition to famed Hakkasan classics, like Peking duck with Royal Beluga caviar. In the Big Smoke, meanwhile, reservations at 34 will lead you for the heart of Mayfair, off Grosvenor Square and into the latest eatery from Caprice Holdings (owner of The Ivy, among others). With chef Paul Brown (formerly of Le Caprice) at the hot plate, 34’s tipped as a ‘haven for carnivores’. Expect plentiful meat, then, from Scottish dry-aged, grassfed beef, to free-range organic cuts from Argentina. Interiors, meanwhile, promise an English-meets-Art Deco style designed by the man who brought us The Club at The Ivy, J Sheekey’s Oyster Bar and Le Caprice New York.
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london
modern mAsters If you’re planning a winter’s break to London in the New Year, you can pick up a piece of iconic British art while you’re there – just pay a trip to the London Art Fair (January 18 -22). Taking place in the cool borough of Islington, a visit to the commercial fair there will bring you face-to-face with a plethora of 20th century greats, the ubiquitous Damien Hirst among them. Of-the-moment names gracing the walls
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alongside Hirst include the likes of Michael Taylor, Gabriel Dubois, Darren Murray and Albert Irvin. But don’t turn a blind eye to the show’s global offerings – rather, keep your eyes peeled for the Art Projects section where international works will be on show, including artists represented by the über-trendy Hoxton Art Gallery, who will appear at the fair for the first time. londonartfair.co.uk
check in | news Thailand
my perfect trip… PHuket Handbag and luggage designer Jimeale Jorgensen of Jimeale New York, shares where she likes to go to escape life in the Big Apple…
The easiness of the place always draws me back here. I love how nice and friendly everyone is. You get off the plane and instantly feel relaxed. The food is amazing; the massages on the beach; the smell of Thai food – everything on the island of Phuket I find to be pure bliss!
Road trip or safari planned? Seasoned travel snappers are sure to want to get their mitts on the latest compact number from Nikon – the Coolpix P7100. It may have enough buttons to launch a spaceship, but the more capable photographers among you won’t be able to get enough of its – wait for it – RAW shooting, optical viewfinder, manual controls and a maneuverable screen to help you compose that perfect shot – to name a few. ae.nikon-asia.com
my fondest memory is when I had brunch on a beach resort. I was actually on my own and a tropical storm began and, suddenly, everyone went running in from outside – all of us soaking wet! I met some really nice people that afternoon and proceeded to have one of the best days I’ve ever had on a vacation. I love eating food off the street carts in the side streets – I know, it’s a huge ‘no no!’ But, when I ask for noodles with chicken, peanuts and chili, every time I get something a bit different – I love it. The Banyan Tree has amazing restaurants if you want something more upmarket. Try a restaurant called Sala Terrace. Sitting outside there in the evenings it’s breezy with tropical weather, the smells are so lovely and it was there that I tasted the best Pad Thai of my life. my favoured travel companion is always my Blackberry – it gives me time to relax but stay connected at the same time – and it doesn’t talk when I need to unwind. I love to stay at Twin palms or the Amanpuri; both have a completely different feel, but I love them both. Amanpuri is an example of pure luxury, with a wholesome feel, like you’re in the rainforest. Twin Palms, meanwhile, has a ‘beachy’ feel, with lots of white décor and beach chic style that appeals to the Australian surfer in me. don’t be afraid to barter and negotiate on everything is my one essential piece of advice when shopping here.
By Royal Invitation Could there be a more regal spot in which to spend the night than London’s Buckingham Palace? We think not. And if journalist and author Andrew Marr is to be believed, London-bound tourists will be able to stay there if Prince Charles ever sits on the throne - and has his wishes granted. Marr’s newly-released novel, The Diamond Queen, claims: “one of the more dramatic ideas that has been discussed (by Prince Charles) is for the Royal Family, in his reign, to leave Buckingham Palace entirely, leaving it as a kind of grand official government hotel and centre for events,” the book reads. So, which of the 240 bedrooms would you choose?
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hoTel icon
run to the Hills It was once a favoured haunt with stars from the Golden Age of Hollywood – marilyn monroe, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor among them. But the iconic Bel-Air Hotel has had something of a makeover – a two-year-long makeover, no less. The aim? To bring its trademark pink façade in to the 21st century, paving the way for a new generation of sizzling stars and jet-setters. We get the lowdown on the legendary hotel’s rebirth from one of the designers responsible – Alexandra Champalimaud.
over the years, Hotel Bel-Air became a sanctuary for movie stars and this influenced our style. However, it was also a sanctuary for the ladies and gentlemen of L.A. and well-heeled travellers seeking privacy and a sense of ‘Bel Air’. These are the people who became the frequent inhabitants of the hotel – the people who walked in its gardens and partied in its old lounge, they influenced us too.
new construction, it provided an opportunity to interpret what the ‘new’ Hotel Bel-Air might be. Our designs were partly influenced by the beautiful Southern California daylight and environment. We used large doors, opening on to expansive terraces and pools, prompting guests to enjoy the surrounding nature and embrace indoor/outdoor living – a real LA type of lifestyle.
The design for the renovation was inspired by the legendary and authentic character of the hotel. We referenced work from architect John Woolf, a famed architect to the stars during Hollywood’s Golden Age of the 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s and the incomparable work of Dorothy Draper, Paul Williams and Robert A.M. Stern.
Legendary Vogue editor diana Vreeland said “pink is the navy blue of India” and we treated the Bel Air’s famous pink façade in the same manner – as a fabulous neutral that worked brilliantly with our design direction. We used classic black and white elsewhere, as well as colours found in the gardens (such as a soft green used in the entry area). We also took the exterior’s pink and used it subtly. The reception/concierge area, for example, has distinct soft pink/violet glass walls and we pulled a strong fuchsia in to the guestrooms.
The new generation Bel Air aesthetic is reflected through different design themes, from American mid-century modern to the glamorous decades of the 1930s to 1950s. You’ll find a relaxed, residential style with interiors that exude a classic, contemporary aesthetic. The biggest change made during the renovation, was the hotel’s seven individually designed specialty suites which were re-created from existing rooms that had recieved regular clients, and for these we had to retain their spirit, while renewing the spaces. one new standout feature of note is the Canyon View suites. As a
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The hotel’s spanish Colonial element is imortant in the Bel Air vernacular, which we sought to revisit through the use of wood ceilings and stone flooring (an upgrade over the traditional terra cotta tile). There are also design elements that point to the ‘40s style and bring about the glamour of those days at the hotel. These can be found in the oval-shaped openings and fluted details in the skylights. Reservations made before December 29 inherit a $100 dining voucher. hotelbelair.com
art
Born in the USA Pop art fan? Don’t miss out on the chance to peruse some of the finest works of the 20th century later this month – without having to jet all the way to the States. Dubai’s Total Arts at the Courtyard will showcase works from famed American pop artists, with a headturning host of limited edition prints – including work from the king of the movement, Andy Warhol. In the same space you can also
Not in the habit of travelling light? Thankfully, Heys USA – inventors of the world’s lightest carry-on luggage – have come up with this funky little number, created with a helping hand from 3D artist Charles Fazzino. Style-conscious jetsetters can take their pick from four of its colourful New York collection, which includes everything from hand luggage to hardshelled beauty cases. Pick yours up at Bloomingdale’s Home, The Dubai Mall.
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get a close look at a rare signed posters exhibition, first presented in Tehran in the 1980s, a time when it was impossible to get original artworks in and out of Iran. Such resistance prompted the talented likes of Jasper Johns and Cy Twombly to put pen to paper, sign their works and make the show happen. Runs until December 10. courtyard-uae.com
Recipes for success Savour the flavours of The Ritz Paris’s delectable gastronomy by snapping up what could well be the most decadent cook book to date: Ritz Paris, Haute Cuisine. It comes from the world-renowned hotel’s current chef, Michael Roth – a man with a plethora of culinary honours under his belt – and allows you to try your hand at 66 classic Ritz recipes, plucked straight from the famed restaurant’s kitchen. And while coming from the Michelin-starred hands of an esteemed chef they may not be the easiest recipes to rustle up, the book’s fine attention to detail, co-authoring from Jean-Francous Mesplede (director of the Michelin Guide to France), and lavish photography to make your mouth water, make each one well worth a try… Available at amazon.com, $32.50.
What in the World?
FROM COWBOYS AND CABBAGES TO PRECIOUS POOCHES, NOVEMBER PLAYS HOST TO HEADTURNING EVENTS THE WORLD OVER...
19-20 11-13 5
27-29 6-9
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5 CABBAGETOWN CHOMP & STOMP Who knew the leafy vegetable could be the point of so much joy? In Atlanta, USA, at least, it’s celebrated to honour the region’s mill-working past, and culminates in a bohemian festival and large-scale picnic to old-school music. 6–9 PUSHKAR CAMEL FAIR For the locals of the (usually) quiet Indian town of Pushkar, this annual, nine-day event is simply unmissable. The region is literally teaming with the hump-backed creatures, and the highlight event is a camel race staged in an amphitheatre amidst singing and dancing.
10 DAY OF THE GAUCHO In Argentina, the ‘gaucho’ – its native cowboy – is commemorated with all manner of equine pursuits (polo among them), while the cowboy’s humble arts are recreated in live demos.
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11-13 CHOCO-LATE FESTIVAL The chocolate capital of Belgium gets mouths watering (and waistlines expanding) at the Belfort Bell Tower, where chocolate features in sculptures, kids’ competitions and even a tempting ‘chocolate walk’. 19–20 WOOFSTOCK Pooches parade at this Canadian canine-focused fair, which sees dog-mad owners enter their precious pets in doggie fashion shows, trick contests and Woofstock’s Ugliest Dog Contest.
27-29 NOYERS-SUR-SEREIN’S TRUFFLE MARKET Autumn cues what has to be one of the world’s priciest markets – Burgundy’s truffle market. Among the fare for sale is the most expensive fungi on the planet – black truffles – a surefire way to spruce up mealtimes.
check in | where to stay
Where to stay...
edinburgh
Venture to Scotland’s historic and art-infused capital and rest up in cosy, local lodgings or grand abodes... START
Quirky
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Modern
Design
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Historic
Grand
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Boutique
Hotel Missoni Edinburgh
The Balmoral
hotelmissoni.com This is where designers come to stay when they’re in the nation’s capital. Each funky, lollipopcoloured room is different, and may include ‘50s chairs or retro lampshades. If you’re looking to explore the city, just step out on to the cobblestone streets and you’ll find yourself in the very thick of things.
thebalmoralhotel.com Period decor meets contemporary design right in the heart of the city at this noble retreat. Bedrooms are filled with neo-classical style, gentle tones and soft fabrics, while the hotel’s banquet room is a majestic vision, draped in pink – an ideal setting for a chintzy afternoon tea party.
Lively
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Relaxing
Luxury
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Local charm
Rick’s Hotel
Millers64
One Royal Circus
21212
ricksedinburgh.co.uk Known for its hip lounge, Rick’s is the place for a fun-fuelled weekend; you won’t even have to leave the building for a great night out.
millers64.com Hide away in this boutique spot and relax among modern artwork, hammered metal sinks and warm, underfloor heating.
oneroyalcircus.com Located at the end of a Georgian crescent, this pretty town house radiates romance – by the end of your stay you’ll wish you lived here.
21212restaurant.co.uk Savour an intimate dinner at the awardwinning, Michelin-star restaurant and then head upstairs to collapse in one of its four elegantly-designed boudoirs.
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Picture this
Rock FoRmation at tassili ahaggaR AlgeriA Over thousands of generations, intriguing bulbous rock formations, such as this one, have formed as a result of swirling desert sand storms which erode the rocks’ surfaces and jolt out of the Algerian Sahara. Amble through the nearby Ahaggar and Tassili mountain ranges and you’ll encounter volcanic forests of warped shapes and strange shadows. Neolithic tribes once lived amid these bizarre, natural rock forms and the tribal paintings they drew on them still remain today. In fact, you can spot up to 15,000 colourful impressions, from cattle herds and crocodiles to dancing tribes. Fascinating stuff. Image: Corbis
Picture this
Rape Fields and cone hills luoping, ChinA The distinctive Yunnan landscape and its idiosyncratic peaks never fails to make visitors jaws hit the floor. The fields around them are filled with canola crops which, when in bloom, create a vibrant yellow tint which stands in brilliant contrast to the moss-green patches that dot the countryside. Visit the region and witness farmers in bamboo hats cultivate crops until March each year; hear the the Nine Dragons waterfall splash in the distance; and punt along the Duoyi River on a bamboo raft, before resting up in the sleepy village of Louping. Image: Corbis
essential selection | Pride of Place
essential selection
Pride of Place Jade Bremner traverses rope bridges, comes face-to-face with the world’s largest rodent and swims with pink river dolphins in a bid to find the safari expeditions of a lifetime...
Wolwedans, Namibia A dune plateau is the setting of this collection of lodges, where gravel plains, a golden savannah and majestic mountains form the picturesque surrounds. Sleep in the fresh air under the piercingly bright stars in a spacious chalet, complete with a private veranda and en-suite bathroom, or enjoy the experience of a camp with all the amenities of a fivestar retreat, including plunge pools, crisp cotton sheets and exceptional cooking. And with guests not having to lift a finger, their full attention can go on enjoying worldclass safari, tracking the likes of giraffes, klipspringers, steenboks, hartebeests and baboons in their natural habitat. wolwedans-namibia.com
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Yacutinga Lodge, Argentina Here, rustic bungalows elevated on stilts boast opaque glass walls, designed so guests won’t miss the wildlife action outside. By night, with the surround sounds of a nocturnal jungle and the gentle trickle of water down the lush slopes and into the Yacutinga’s refreshing pool, guests can tuck in to freshly-farmed, homemade Amazonian treats from the lodge’s kitchen. Visitors will need to have energy levels charged, too; ready for tropical safaris, where they’ll ramble to the spectacular 80-metre-high and 700-metre-long Iguazú Falls, spotting bizarre creatures such as the capybara, the largest living rodent in the world, and the king of all anteaters – the tamandua – along the way. yacutinga.com
Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge, Brazil Suspended on traditional wooden structures, on the Rio Negro archipelago in the Amazon Rainforest, Anavihanas is immersed in the wilderness, surrounded by 90 kilometres of forest, river, lakes and islands. Luxury dwellings include 16 suites nestled inside cute cottages, or the choice of four premium bungalows. Outside in the wild, exotic animal spotting opportunities are endless: trek through the feral woods and spy spider monkeys, sloths and giant anteaters or go swimming with pink river dolphins. anavilhanaslodge.com
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+971 4 3080000 radissonblu.com
essential selection | Pride of Place
Baghvan Lodge, India Just moments from the lodge itself, watch extraordinary beasts flock to the riverbed for a cool drink or place to cross. Alternatively, head to the reserve’s elevated jungle platforms for views across the valley and a discrete place from which to spot wild game and tigers. Come sunset, spark up one of Baghvan’s hookah pipes and unwind under the area’s huge Banyan trees, take a dip in the glistening turquoise pool, or rest up after savouring the lodge’s speciality spicy curry and golden paratha. tajhotels.com
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Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Tanzania Etched into the Ngorongoro Crater – the largest volcanic crater known to man at over 600 metres deep – is a conservation area that’s home to some 25,000 wild animals. Guests can spot free-roaming elephants and buffalo while eating breakfast on a chunky wooden balcony – served by their butler, no less. What’s more, the luxury resort shares its ancient setting with an indigenous tribe, so visitors can take a day trip from the lodge for a rare meeting with 200 Maasai warriors in traditional dress, who hold fire torches and perform traditional dance. ngorongorocrater.com
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Mauritius is Magnifique
Sofitel So Mauritius Bel Ombre An intimate getaway on a turquoise lagoon, Sofitel Mauritius Bel Ombre offers supreme luxury while celebrating the natural environment. Strikingly modern and timelessly elegant, it is a haven of peace designed by Lek Bunnag and decorated by Kenzo TAKADA. Luminous suites feature private tropical gardens and provide absolute tranquility and comfort. Bel Ombre - Île Maurice Tél. : + 230 605 58 00 – e-mail : h6707@sofitel.com
www.sofitel.com
essential selection | Pride of Place
White Desert, Antarctica
Bamurru Plains, Australia
Perched on a 200 foot icefall, this luxury ecological camp presents a cluster of private eco-tents – heated with solar power and featuring a library, dining room, kitchen and lounge. White Desert’s trained guides specialise in survival exploration in the word’s coldest continent, and they’ll lead guests on sub-zero adventures, crossing plateaus seldom travelled before. Nearby sites include Schimacher Oasis, ice caves and icebergs. However, not everything is frozen; lucky travellers may find polar bears, rare birdlife and spectacular sights, including hundreds of Emperor Penguins. white-desert.com
On the edge of the Mary River, in the far west of Kakadu National Park, noisy blue-winged kookaburras and chubby buffalo take a drink or a dip just a stone’s throw from Bamurru Plain’s nine luxury safari lodges. Here, safari-seekers will find cosy, lantern-lit lodgings sat upon raised timber platforms, where they can rest up before heading out on a day’s game drive in the bush, searching for species native to the area, such as the big-footed, kangaroo-like wallaby, dingoes – Australia’s wild scavenger dogs – and even ferocious crocodiles. bamurruplains.com
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Ulusaba, South Africa Nestled in the rugged wilds of the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, Sir Richard Branson’s Ulusaba is sure to delight the senses of seclusion-seekers. Guests can choose from a number of abodes, including the seven-suite Rock Lodges which stand perched atop a koppie’s peak and offer mesmerising vistas of the green and gold-tinged landscape. Alternatively, sleep as high as a monkey in a Safari Lodge amid the treetops, where the only access to civilisation is a thrilling, but precarious, walk between lodges on swinging rope bridges. ulusaba.virgin.com
Corbett Hideaway Lodge, India Surrounded by mango orchids, exotic birds and rare flowers, and with the Kosi River flowing in the distance, this area offers a beautiful spot for one of India’s most lavish safari camps. Inside, the cluster of 40 tiled cottages come decked out with smooth wooden furniture, handwoven bamboo ceilings and stone-tiled floors. Step outside onto perfectly pebbled footpaths leading to the Corbett National Park, and explorers can participate in tiger tracking and nature spotting until the sun sets. corbetthideaway.com
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a place that feels like it was made for you.
Because it was. the spectacular two-island conrad maldives rangali island boasts the most luxurious villas, two spas and the best dining experience in the maldives, including ithaa undersea restaurant, the only one of its kind in the world. Book your holiday before 31 december 2011 and enjoy our special offers in 2012 * stay 5 nights and pay for 4 * stay 14 nights and pay for 10 Book between: 1st November and 31st december 2011 Valid for stays between: 1st february and 11th may 2012
conrad maldives rangali island for reservations contact mlehi.maldives@conradhotels.com or visit conradmaldives.com * terms and conditions apply.
Split Decision
Steve Williams embarks on a road trip in Croatia and encounters snarly service, a dinosaur and adjective-inducing views
I
t’s an interesting sales pitch. Men, women, old, young holding up signs on a stunning coastal road that read ‘Apartman’. I thought they were auditioning for a part in a new superhero movie, but no. More about them later. Croatia has been a ‘hot’ tourist destination for a few years now. When a country/city/region is given that label, it’s often cause for concern – hyped up by lifestyle and travel writers, a lot of whom have never set foot in the place. After spending over a week in the country – obviously only long enough to barely scratch the surface – I have to agree. Croatia is hot, damn hot. My wife and I flew into Zagreb, Croatia’s capital set in the northeast. An interesting city, it’s unfairly viewed by some as merely the entry point into the country,
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before ‘the real holiday’ starts on the coast. It’s definitely worth spending a few days there. The magnificent Zagreb Cathedral is the icon of the city, visible from just about everywhere, standing majestically on the Kaptol. Originally built in the 11th century, the cathedral has withstood invasions, earthquakes, being burnt to the ground and has since been restored to its present neo-Gothic glory. Nearby, the iconic Dolac Market, with its kaleidoscope of fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers, plus cheese, meat, fish, even souvenirs (including the obligatory lace doilies) bustles with locals stocking up in the ‘belly of Zagreb’. A short walk from Zagreb Cathedral is the fascinating ‘Upper Town’ – the main street home to bohemian-esque cafés, restaurants, boutiques and galleries housed in 18th century buildings, with narrow
split decision | croatia
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split decision | croatia Opening page clockwise from top: Dubrovnik; Folk dancers in traditional costume; Market in Zagreb. Left: Jakljan, one of the Elafit islands, near Dubrovnik.
lanes spider-webbing off it. One leads to the historic Lotrščak Tower complete with a cannon that’s fired everyday at noon. Speaking of history, it’s a fairly easy walk to the Upper Town, or you can catch the Zagreb funicular, which opened in 1890 and is apparently the world’s shortest – the journey is a mere 66 metres, taking just 55 seconds. Short, but historic. A few hours on Zagreb’s hop on/hop off bus will take you through the Lower Town main commercial area and onto sights including Jarun Lake, which is known as the ‘Zagreb Sea’, a man-made lake which attracts Zagrebians keen on cycling, canoeing, swimming, picnics and beach volleyball. Just strolling around the city reveals some treasures – the Botanic Gardens are very tranquil, there are some beautiful parks, town squares, fascinating museums, galleries and monuments and we discovered a great organic restaurant called Nova. The clock in a cosmopolitan café-filled square that struck 128 times was rather mysterious. There are also many grand old buildings as well, a shame some of them have been defaced by graffiti. As I mentioned, Zagreb has plenty to offer tourists, though some people in service industries are doing their best to negate that. The service we received in our fivestar hotel was despondently gloomy at best. At a café in the main square we were greeted with a welcoming “Vot?” by the little ray of sunshine waitress who appeared like she would rather be heading to the coast. Which is exactly what we did. The drive southwest from Zagreb was fairly uneventful
though it took in some interesting country. The excellent A1 freeway, including many long tunnels carved inland through mountains, had us in Split in about five hours. The staff at Le Méridien in Split was the antitheses (and antidote) to the service staff in Zagreb – warm, open, friendly. Mind you, if I lived and worked in Split, I’d be warm, open and friendly as well; the place is stunning. The hotel is set on a private beach, with the crystalline water dominating the postcard-inducing landscape across to the main part of the city. (Apologies for the adjective overdose.) Dinner on the balcony watching the sunset while an acoustic duo channelled Bob Marley was all rather pleasant. I could get used to this – it would take some time, however, to warm to the beaches boasting miniature boulders where sand should be. As an Australian growing up with normal beaches cushioned with powdery, normal sand, I found Croatian beaches with their mocking rocks a challenge. It’s kind of foot reflexology meets sado-masochism. And from the sanctuary of my sun lounger I could only marvel at the brave souls lying on the rocks, defended only by a gossamer-thin layer of beach towel. Apart from pointy bits, the beaches are gorgeous. I haven’t seen clearer water anywhere in the world. We spent a late afternoon wandering around the centre of Split, the showpiece of which is a rather unique holiday home – the palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, which was built in the year 305 and has a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Truly remarkable that so much of the palace remains, and is now an eclectic mix of boutiques, cafés, restaurants and apartments. It’s
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‘You really are in an open-air museum as you stroll past the magnificently preserved monuments, buildings and fountains’
split decision | croatia Previous page: Elevated view of the Old Town, Dubrovnik. Left clockwise from top left: Boat in Split; Dubrovnik town centre; View of Motovun from the Istria district.
Images: Corbis / Shutterstock / Le Meridien Hotel, Split Text: Steve Williams / The Interview People
‘It was rather difficult to concentrate on the windscreen rather than the travelling picture show of lakes and countryside unfolding in the right hand window’
not a palace in the strict sense, more of a city within the actual city. The local cats appreciated the ruins as well, perching on top of them in an attempt to get slightly closer to the carpet of taunting birds overhead. Split’s sea promenade, or Riva, is a lot more recent, and its modern design in contrast to the Roman ruins appears to polarise Split residents – I didn’t actually mind it. The traditional wooden sailing ships complete with rigging framed by the late evening blue sky added to the ambience. Split is magnificent. I look forward to spending more time there. Our final stop on our trip was Dubrovnik – the famed walled city that is arguably Croatia’s number one destination. Dubrovnik is only a four hour drive from Split, and what a drive along the Adriatic Highway (the Magistrala), snaking along the coast through small villages, taking in spectacular views. It was rather difficult to concentrate on the windscreen rather than the travelling picture show of lakes and countryside unfolding in the right hand window. It was on this drive that we not only encountered a random life-size T Rex peering over a fence, but also those ‘Apartman’ signs – locals advertising their apartments for rent. A puzzling way to advertise your rental property. Dubrovnik had a big reputation to fill. I know many people that have been there, seen hundreds of images and travel programs and features on the city. I have to say it exceeded my expectations – from the first time we entered those imposing gates of the old city. Just magnificent. It was a short stroll from our hotel – the excellent Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik. The city was founded in the 7th century, the towers and walls (up to six metres thick) that ring the old city were constructed between the 12th to 17th centuries.
Dubrovnik has survived a massive earthquake in 1667 that destroyed most of the public buildings and the insanity of the pointless shelling during the Croatian War of Independence in the 1990s. A resilient lot. One of the must-do’s is to walk on top of the walls – it’s about a two-kilometre journey and there are great views of the old city the coastline and the sea of terracotta roofs, some sporting incongruous satellite dishes. There’s an enchanting atmosphere in the old city that’s hard to define – so much history to take in as you wander the streets. You really are in an open-air museum as you stroll past the magnificently preserved monuments, buildings and fountains – a smorgasbord of architecture ranging from medieval, renaissance and baroque. There are many boutiques, fabulous restaurants and cafés along the main street and tucked away in the myriad of lanes. Just sit, have a meal, watch the passing parade and absorb it all. When you are in Dubrovnik, allow some time to cruise over to some of the outlying islands, The Elaphite Islands. Again, stunning beaches, glass-like water, small villages, great food etc, etc, etc. Dubrovnik itself has some magnificent beaches. We spent a day at the popular Banje Beach just outside the city walls and the glorious and less crowded Sveti Jakov, that isn’t known by that many tourists (don’t tell anyone). We caught a lift back from the beach in a small boat skippered by a young guy who “doesn’t have his boat licence yet”. We weren’t worried, it was pretty much a straight line anyway, and those views from the water as the imposing fortress loomed up in front of us kept us occupied. There aren’t enough adjectives to describe the beauty of Croatia. Get there.
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The high Life
Determined to improve his technique and try somewhere different, Adrian Bridge heads to the snowy Tatras
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tatras | slovakia
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Opening page: A skier takes to the slopes. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Grand Hotel Praha; a boat on the lake of the Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras; Skiers mingle outside the Lukova Ski Resort; view from the same Kempinski hotel. Next page: A Slovakian winter scene.
P
atrick, our cheery guide to the joys of skiing in Slovakia, got off to a good start when he promised that by the end of the day my two brothers and I would be the “carving gods of the Carpathians”. The three of us are seasoned skiers, but technique is not always our strong point. The prospect of learning how to descend the slopes with Zeus-like panache appealed. We liked Patrick and we liked what he promised. Our master class in how to get the most out of carving skis came in Jasná, the biggest resort in Slovakia. With its 35 kilometres of marked pistes, Jasná caters for skiers of all abilities. And its wide blue and red runs are well suited to enthusiasts like us who, having spent years trying to look passably good on narrow, straight skis, were still not entirely at home on the considerably wider carving skis that are now the norm. “Don’t make skiing hard work,” Patrick advised. “Make the skis do the hard work.” Over the course of the next couple of hours he illustrated how – showing us when to put weight on the edge of the skis to assist with turning, how and when to lean into the mountain, and how to use the body and shoulders to achieve an elegant and seemingly effortless motion down the slope. Gradually we got the hang of it, and although I’d stop short of claiming that we ended up skiing divinely, we all made progress. After one particularly successful descent down the pinetree-
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bordered run to Zahrady, we stopped for a Viennese-style coffee laced with something warming. Then we hit the slopes again – there was no stopping the carving gods of the Carpathians now. Learning how to ski properly on carvers was not the main reason we chose the winter resorts of Slovakia over the tried-and-tested favourites of the Alps. We fancied something different – both in terms of the ski experience and the social one. We wanted to explore a different culture and cuisine, we wanted to see the Tatras (part of the Carpathian range) and we also fancied something cheaper. On all counts, Slovakia scored highly. In terms of the ski experience, nobody could claim that Slovakia compares with the top resorts of Italy, France, Switzerland or Austria and had we been going for a full week, rather than four days, that would have been a problem. That said, with its 24 distinct and interlinked runs (and five freeride zones), Jasná is one of the best ski areas in central Europe and there was more than enough variety to give us two full and fun days of skiing. And that was just on the northern side of the mountain: during our visit, the wind was too strong to allow us to get to the highest point of Chopok (2,024m), from which you can ski down a number of additional runs on the southern side. Plusses included never having to wait more than five minutes for a lift (including the eight-person gondola installed last season) and
tatras | slovakia
‘Poprad is no beauty spot, but the outlying suburb of Spis.ská Sobota, containing buildings dating back to medieval times, is’
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Images: Corbis / arabianeye.com / photolibrary / Grand Hotel Praha / Grand Hotel Kempinski High Tatras Text: Adrian Bridge / The Daily Telegraph / The Interview People
that food was hearty and cheap – a bowl of gnocchi with sheep’s cheese cost just over $5. Jasná, the premier ski spot in Slovakia, is in the Low Tatras. But there are further opportunities to ski in the High Tatras, about 40 kilometres to the east. The experience here is different. Whereas the largely modern and purpose-built resorts of the Low Tatras offer plenty of pistes, but little in the way of characterful architecture, those in the High Tatras boast fewer runs but do have an AustroHungarian era grandeur – particularly in the Art Nouveaurich resorts of Stary Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica. We stopped for coffee and cake on the terrace of the aptly named Grandhotel Praha in Tatranská Lomnica and chatted to a mother and daughter who had enjoyed some quality time in a hotel offering great views of the Tatras, chandeliered extravagance and a modern spa. “Sitting in the lounge here is like entering the world of a central European novel,” said Belinda, the mother. Most of the runs above Tatranská Lomnica are reds and blues – perfect for beginners and young families – though higher up there are some blacks which, combined with the lower runs, make for the longest single descent (seven kilometres) in the Tatras. We headed on to S.trbské Pleso (passing a sea of tree stumps testifying to the devastating storm of November 2004). For those still not sure about venturing into Eastern Europe, Strbské Pleso has a Kempinski hotel on the edge of a lake offering deluxe 21st-century comforts, service – and prices. There are several reasonably challenging red runs in the resort that kept us busy for an afternoon, but would not have for a full day. But then there were other diversions. The nearby town of Poprad contains the award-winning Aqua City complex, with pools and hot-spring spas. Built in accordance with ecologically progressive principles, Aqua City is where you can – in James Bond style – sit and order drinks from a poolside bar or, if you’re feeling brave, pop into a cryo-chamber to experience temperatures as low as -80C (it’s meant to ease pain and improve decision making, apparently). Poprad is no beauty spot, but the outlying suburb of Spis.ská Sobota, containing buildings dating back to medieval times, a classically pretty square and a lovely peaceful air, is. This, to our surprise, also turned out to be a good spot to sample some excellent Slovak gourmet cuisine. It all came courtesy of Peter Cerven, a man who spent two years working at London’s Dorchester Hotel before returning to Slovakia to run the Fortuna, one of several stylish pensions in Spisská Sobota (we stayed in another, the delightfully characterful Sabato, dating back to the 17th century). Peter asked the chef to prepare dishes that included a white Valrhona chocolate risotto with Parmesan, grilled halibut and truffles, and a fillet of boar with roasted porcini mushrooms. We were wined and dined in style; the bill for three courses and all drinks coming to about $30 a head. And there was a lovely piece of theatre at the end when Peter brought out oversized glasses, and set them spinning on their bases before pouring drink with one hand while waving with the other. No doubt it was a party trick he learnt at the Dorchester. I don’t think any of us will ever enjoy an after-dinner digestif as much again...
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‘We stayed in the delightfully characterful Sabato, dating back to the 17th century’
Inset: Shangri-La’s Rasa Ria Resort, Kota Kinabalu
PicturePerfect Malaysia What awaits in Asia’s most enchanting destination
kanoo world traveller promotion
Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Towers are an enduring symbol of Malaysia. The twin buildings took seven years to construct, and for a while they comprised the world’s tallest building (they still hold the record as the planet’s tallest twin towers). Daily, complimentary tours of the towers’ Skybridge are offered, but tickets are strictly limited and the queues to secure them are often long, so be sure to get there early (they’re handed out from 8.30am). Real life ‘Spiderman’, French urban climber Alain Robert, scaled the summit of one of the towers in 2009, via only his hand and feet. It was his third attempt at doing so, having been arrested on two previous occasions.
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kanoo world traveller promotion
Opening page: Kuala Lumpur. Left: Gunung Mulu National Park. This page, top to bottom: Rhinoceros Hornbill; Mount Kinabalu.
In Sarawak you’ll find one of nature’s finest achievements – the stunning Gunung Mulu National Park. It’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and covers a vast expanse of land that incorporates spectacular caves and rainforest. The caves, in particular, are a real must-see, and tours of them are offered daily. Some of the most incredible on earth, they include Clearwater Cave, which houses one of the planet’s largest underground river systems, and Deer Cave, which actually boasts the world’s biggest, walk-able cave passage. The park is also home to a raft of exotic wildlife, which lives amid what are stunning surrounds. They include Gibbons, playful Orangutans and the Rhinoceros Hornbill, a big-beaked bird which features on Sarawak’s state emblem. Just outside Kuala Lumpur lies another natural wonder, the Batu Caves. Here you’ll be able to explore a series of caverns that are some 400 million years old, but much more than that, you’ll also be seeing a place that holds real significance for many Malaysians, and as such it is one of the most interesting sights in this ever-intriguing country. While if you head to Sabah in Malaysian Borneo you’ll get to take in the awe-inspiring sight of Mount Kinabalu, South East Asia’s highest Mountain.
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kanoo world traveller promotion Clockwise from left: Tea trails in Cameron Highlands; Tea pickers; Apes at the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre.
A sea of pea-green hills sets the scene for the Cameron Highlands, which, in its entirety, covers an area around the size of Singapore, and is the highest point in Malaysia at 5,000 feet above sea level. Its elevation places visitors in a prime position to behold its rolling peaks, rich forests and – the thing you won’t want to miss – tea plantations. Visit the latter and you’ll witness traditionally dressed locals plucking leaves from the blanket of bushes – and can even taste the flavoursome, local brew. The area’s position also affords cooler climes (between 10°C to 21°C) to Malaysia’s hotter lowlands, making it an ideal place in which to set off on a tropical hike along the trails where, along with natural waterfalls and mountain ranges, you can spot exotic animals, Maquacues and Orangutans among them. If the sight of the orange-coated chimps makes you gush, pay a visit to the Sepilok Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre in Sabah. Set up in 1964 to rehabilitate orphaned babies, the forest reserve is one of the world’s best spots in which to see the playful creatures up close in their natural habitat. Make for the centre’s viewing gallery and you can watch them being fed milk and bananas twice daily. An enchanting sight.
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Clockwise from top: Tioman Island; Mabul Island; Perhenthian Islands.
The beautiful, palm-fringed beaches of Langkawi and Pahang are well-known outside of Malaysia, but the country has equally outstanding (and, best of all, less populated) beaches elsewhere. Just off the coast of Terrengganu, in the northeast of the country, lie the Perhenthian Islands, which offer huge swathes of powdersoft sand on which gentle waters wash in. Off the eastern coast of Peninsula Malaysia is the postcard-worthy island of Tioman, which, in addition to a spectacular set of beaches, offers visitors the chance to explore what are virtually uninhabited jungle highlands. Over in Malaysian Borneo, both Sabah and Sarawak offer beaches aplenty. 35km from Sarawak’s capital stands the charming fishing town of Santubong, where you’ll find stretches of sand galore. In Sabah, meanwhile, you can have that true Robinson Crusoe experience on the small, oval-shaped island of Mabul, which is entirely surrounded by often empty, sun-soaked beaches.
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kanoo world traveller promotion
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Clockwise from left: Clown Fish; Barracuda, both in Spiadan Island reefs.
Overland, Sipadan Island in Malaysian Borneo may not be more than a miniscule dot in the South China Sea, but beneath it lies a magnificent amount of fish: barracuda and horse-eye jacks are abundant over reefs which are also home to dozens of breeding turtles. These turtles are quite accustomed to the attention of divers, so a dive here presents a wonderful opportunity to get close to them. Meanwhile, the nearby reefs of Mabul and Kapalai are also swarmed with an array of multi-hued fish, making Malaysia one of the world’s best scuba dive destinations.
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Ashford Castle Excellence since 1228
F
ew Hotels have the pedigree of Ashford Castle. Or the romance. Founded in the 13th Century, Ashford Castle has been a focal point of Western Ireland for close to 800 years. Located a ½ hour from Galway city, Ashford has played host to presidents, princes and celebrities since it opened in 1939. Some of the better known personalities that have been guests include President Regan, Robin Williams, Barbara Streisand and Brad Pitt. Pierce Brosnan married here in 2001. An old Guinness family home, set on 350 private acres on the edge of Lough Corrib, Ashford boasts 83 guestrooms, all commanding extraordinary views of the lake and river. It boasts three dining options, in season, and an array of on site sporting activities. And last year it was voted ‘Number 1 Best Resort Hotel in Europe’ by readers of Conde Nast Traveller.
Join in on centuries of tradition at Ashford Castle, where our guests are wrapped in a warm cloak of hospitality, commonly associated with the Irish. Our lesiure facilities include:
• Falconry • Tennis • Fishing on Lough Corrib • Clay Pigeon Shooting • Horseriding • 9 Hole Golf Course, offering complimentary
‘Ashford has played host to presidents, princes, princesses and celebrities since it opened in 1939’
green fee’s
• Exclusive Health Centre and Treatment Rooms • Boat trips, by request, to the island on Lough Corrib
For further information please check out our website at www.ashford.ie or contact the hotel directly 00353 94 9546003. Ashford Castle. A Castleful of experience for over 800 years
November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 57
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Shanghai | China
Shanghai or bust
The financial and commercial powerhouse of the world’s fastestgrowing economy evolved over four millennia. But Ian Henderson was determined to get to grips with it in just four days
O
ld China hands will tell you that getting a feel for one of the world’s most ancient civilisations and fastest growing modern economies takes a lifetime – if it can be done at all. But what if, like me, you only have a long weekend as part of a longer tour – so that’s four millennia of civilisation in as many days... The Forbidden City and the Great Wall will keep, they’re not going anywhere. Unlike Shanghai, one of
the world’s fastest-changing cities – my plan is to fast forward into the future there, then slam on the brakes in Hangzhou. As Kyoto is to Tokyo, Hangzhou is to Shanghai, its temples and forests where many Chinese think the ancient soul of the country lives on. Landing refreshed at Shanghai’s Pudong airport and taking a taxi into town along the spanking new 10-lane expressways, I have to adjust to the sense of being in a moving bubble of
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endless high-rise buildings appearing out of the white haze and fading away long before the horizon. Eventually, the buildings grow even taller and the traffic denser, choked with everything from limos to antique pushbikes. After this arrival, the calm grey stone courtyard of the cool PuLi hotel feels like a Zen garden, so I drop the bags (the “guanjia” butler will unpack if you’ve splashed out on a Club suite) and, as it is getting towards dusk, run a bath and relax watching the city turn from day to night. As the skyscrapers’ lights twinkle on, and the cars stream endlessly on the expressways and giant TV screens come to life, I feel the rising sense of the excitement that has drawn travellers here from East and West for centuries. But the city, I quickly realise, isn’t a conventional tourist destination – most visitors are still from other parts of China, together with a rich mix of business people rushing to trade money, microchips and a million furry dashboard ornaments. But there’s a vast amount to see – so it is time to jump out of the bath and plunge in
‘It’s startling quite how many Prada, Gucci and Patek Philippe shops there are’
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to Shanghai. Just like every European since the first traders settled, my first stop has to be the Bund; the celebrated strip of art-deco buildings (of which Shanghai has more than anywhere else) along the Huangpu riverfront. An expatstyle cocktail in the Waldorf precedes a stroll up to the newly restored Peace Hotel to see if the ancient (and unrestored) jazz band are playing in the bar. Across the road is the entrance to the intriguing Sightseeing Tunnel. An escalator takes me down to a land of tack, where a silver pod waits to wobble through a tunnel under the river and transport me to giddying light shows, inflatable figures and a surreal voice-over describing the history of the world since “nascent magma”. Bizarre, but the perfect way to arrive at the Pudong side of the river – you emerge surrounded by an architectural bonanza, including the Orient Pearl tower (a Sixties vision of the future) and one of the world’s tallest buildings, the World Financial Centre.
Opening page: Pudong skyline. This page, left to right: Dim sum; The Puli Hotel’s library.
‘Shanghai street food is perfect for this frenetically fast-moving city’
Next is dinner, and in Shanghai there’s plenty of choice – the upscale Mesa, perhaps, or the new Shanghai Tang Café in Xintiandi? I manage to get in to Kee, one of the dining clubs favoured by the city’s new elite, located in a pair of recently restored villas (by Dunhill – a hugely popular Western brand here) from the glory days of Shanghai’s French Concession. Fighting off jet lag, it is back to the Bund for dancing to a swing band at the Glamour Bar and a drink over the never-ending traffic of the river, tugboat exhausts glowing red as they haul gigantic laden barges upstream. After a last look in at the Drop club it is time to retire to bed in the warm embrace of The PuLi. The next day is set aside for Shanghai’s most visible economic activity – shopping. It’s startling quite how many Prada, Gucci and Patek Philippe shops there are – if you’re into big-ticket purchases you’ll find plenty to choose from on the Bund or Shaanxi Road. The old French Concession – a more relaxed area of tree-lined, low-rise streets that hasn’t yet been swept away by China’s constant bulldozing of the past – has an interesting mix of funky and functional, fashionable and the fake. There are still roadside fruit vendors and scooter repairs, too – but even their prices have shot up in the past year as the economy has boomed. And be sure not to miss Tianzifang, where old factories have been turned into a hive of up-and-coming new designers. Shanghai street food is perfect for this frenetically fastmoving city – at lunchtime you can queue with the locals at stand-ups such as Yang’s, but I need a good break and find a seat and watch chefs hand-make little steamed dumplings of loveliness called xiaolongbao at the famous Din Tai Fung. Later, the PuLi’s ‘urban resort’ – restful spa and a big,
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Shanghai | China
beautiful pool – are just the thing to unwind and prepare for the next day’s travel... through time as well as space. To picture Shanghai’s Hongqiao railway station imagine the biggest airport terminal you’ve ever been to and then of trains that are less like trains and more like aircraft without wings; one of which is going to whisk us to Hangzhou in just 35 minutes. The city never really ends as we accelerate away; the ‘countryside’ amounts to a few more gaps between buildings with a few fields mixed in, but this is what it means to be in one of the most populous places on Earth – Shanghai is nearing the 20million mark. There are no shanty towns, at least this close to the city; just tidy apartment block after tidy apartment block. The landscape only begins to become more mountainous and wooded as we approach Hangzhou, a city of a mere six million inhabitants. Urban Hangzhou is worth a look – it’s the scissormaking capital of China, among other things, and there’s a fascinating traditional medicine market – but I am more interested in the bamboo forests and tea plantations above West Lake, the single most popular visitor destination in China. To many, this area is the country’s spiritual heart, where legends and myths surround the temples of Longyi built on the ‘Peak Flying from Afar’. Amanfayun is a farming village converted into a resort hotel, with carefully restored wood and mud-wall houses scattered along the centuries-old path leading down to the temples. Cobbled pathways run between them, opening into quiet courtyards filled with birdsong. The simple elm furniture and subdued lighting in each room seems a world away from the glitz of Shanghai, and climbing through the dawn mist to one of the temples for the monks’ morning chanting feels like a powerful link to ancient tradition. A spa with traditional wooden baths and an outdoor pool, relaxes things even more – enough to appreciate fully the tea from the hotel’s own plantation, or even start learning calligraphy in the village library. A couple of days here is the perfect counterpoint to the acceleration that happens as soon as the train hurtles you back to Shanghai. By visiting both cities you compress past millennia and a snapshot of what may well be the dominant culture of the next, into one brief visit. I get back on the plane exhausted, exhilarated – and determined to spend longer in China next time.
Text: Ian Henderson / The Sunday Telegraph / The Interview People Images: Corbis / Photolibrary / The Puli hotel
Opposite page, from top left: Hangzhou tea man; Yuan Yuan Garden; A woman picks tea leaves.
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Pure ShoreS
To get the most out of Antigua, take to the water, says Maggie O’Sullivan
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ANTIGUA | CARIBBEAN IslANds
P
rince took a chunk of squid from a sandwich box and impaled it on the hook. Deftly, he cast the line over the back of the boat then offered the rod to me. A few minutes later, I felt a tug and the line tightened. “Lower the rod then give it a little flick upwards and reel in the line,” he said. Easier said than done. The rod was bent almost in two and I struggled with the reel. Suddenly, the rod straightened, the line popped out of the water, and at the end sparkled a red rock hind. Before we upped anchor, I had caught two more. Antigua has always been as much about the crystal-clear water that encircles it as the dry land that covers it. Its virtually unbroken necklace of coral reef makes it an excellent spot for diving, snorkelling and deep-sea fishing, while its warm, steady trade winds and sheltered coves make it ideal for sailing (Antigua’s annual Classic Yacht Regatta is one of the best in the world). It was the same waters, or rather the protected harbours, that made the island so attractive to 18th-century colonialists and traders who used Antigua as a hub for the Caribbean; as did the Britain’s Royal Navy under Nelson (who hated Antigua and rarely went ashore). Unfortunately, in recent years Antigua has also been about crime. But I’ve been to Antigua many times and never once felt threatened or uncomfortable. I wouldn’t recommend hanging out in the back streets of St John’s, the capital, or wandering too far along a deserted beach at night – but there aren’t many islands in the Caribbean where you can still do that. One of the best things about Antigua is its accessibility – once you land, wherever you stay will only take 40 minutes or so to get to (dreadful potholes notwithstanding). Also in its favour is the fact that its beaches are almost all of the white-sand variety (not always the case in the Caribbean) and there’s plenty to do (again, not always the case in the Caribbean). It’s not particularly smart, in the way of Barbados, say, but it has its share of glamorous hotels and any number of good beach resorts. One of the prettiest spots in Antigua is English Harbour, the Royal Navy’s former base, now beautifully renovated and filled with glossy yachts. That was where we headed after my fishing triumph,
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‘Antigua has always been as much about the crystal-clear water that encircles it as the dry land that covers it’
stopping at Catherine’s Café at the harbour mouth. Catherine’s is run by Claudine and Guillaume as if they were still in their native Brittany – you can tuck into moules marinière and tarte tartin as you contemplate Nelson’s Dockyard on the bank opposite. After lunch Prince took us back to Carlisle Bay, Gordon Campbell Gray’s chic resort on the island’s south coast. The chef had promised to show us how to prepare our catch for dinner. But when he joined us on in the restaurant, it wasn’t my three rock hinds he brought with him, but a magnificent, blush-pink queen snapper which he proceeded to turn into a ceviche (my fish ended up in the staff canteen). Next day, Junior, a local guide, took me on a rainforest walk. As he strode up a steep mahogany-lined path he demonstrated his bushcraft with instructions on how to make tea out of wild lemongrass. On we went, past spiky bearded figs and turpentine trees, while birds called and whooped above us. We emerged into the sunlight again halfway up Signal Hill. At 1,217ft, this is the second-highest peak on the island. The highest, at 1,319ft, is Boggy Peak, a little farther to the east. In 2009 Antigua’s prime minister changed Boggy Peak’s name to Mount Obama – though most steadfastly refer to it by its original name. How could you not love an island that would rather call its highest peak after its swampy terrain than after the president of the United States?
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Images: Corbis / arabianEye.com / campbellgrayhotels.com Text: Maggie O’Sullivan / The Sunday Telegraph / The Interview People
Opening page: Aerial view of Antigua marina. This page: Ceviche. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Beach at Carlisle Bay; Dining room at Carlisle Bay; Local man on beach with queen snapper. the Sega.
ANTIGUA | CARIBBEAN IslANds
November October 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 67
EID AL ADHA HOLIDAY SPECIALS
Amazing Offers at Affordable Prices
DESTINATION
SAR
BHD
AED
QAR
OMR
REMARKS
BAHRAIN (4 Days / 3 Nights)
783
--
760
760
80
Breakfast
DUBAI (4 Days / 3 Nights)
520
53
-
505
53
Breakfast
MUSCAT (BeACH ReSoRT) (4 Days/3 Nights) eXPeRIeNCe JoRDAN (5 Days / 4 Nights)
2110
215
2050
2050
-
Breakfast, Dinner and Transfers
2352
240
2284
2284
240
Package
BeIRUT (4 Days/3 Nights)
660
67
641
641
67
Breakfast & Transfers
eGYPT NILe CRUISe (7 Days / 6 Nights) Valid for Expatriates
3260
333
3165
3165
333
Package
SHARM eL SHeIKH (4 Days/3 Nights)
1316
134
1278
1278
134
Breakfast
JUST CAIRo (4 /Days/3 Nights)
830
85
806
806
85
Breakfast
JUST ISTANBUL (5 Days / 4 Nights)
706
72
686
686
72
Breakfast & Transfers
1974
202
1917
1917
202
Package
2235
228
2170
2170
228
MALDIVeS (5 Days/4 Nights)
2856
292
2773
2773
292
Half Board & Transfers
BeST oF SRI LANKA & MALDIVeS (7 Days / 6 Nights)
3600
368
3496
3496
368
Package
JUST KUALA LUMPUR (5 Days / 4 Nights)
905
93
879
879
93
Breakfast & Transfers
SINGAPoRe (4 Days/3 Nights)
1184
121
1150
1150
121
Breakfast & Transfers
LoNDoN (5 Days/4 Nights)
1895
194
1840
1840
194
Breakfast & Transfers
INDIA – THe GoLDeN TRIANGLe (7Days/6 Nights) SRI LANKA-HILL CoUNTRY & BeACH (7 Days / 6 Nights)
Package
Currencies: SAR= Saudi Riyal; BHD= Bahraini Dinar; AED= UAE Dirhams; QAR= Qatar Riyal; OMR= Omani Riyal
• • • • • • •
12
Price includes accommodation for specified nights with meals, including return airport transfers (where mentioned). ‘Package’ offers include a detailed itinerary with sightseeing tours. These rates are applicable during the Eid Al Adha holidays period, until 10th November, 2011. More details and other information are available upon request. Prices are per person, (starting from), sharing a twin room, and in currencies mentioned above. Prices are subject to availability and based on a minimum number of nights stay as specified above. If any arrival / departure airport transfers are between 2000-0600 hours, a surcharge may apply.
All prices are subject to change. Kanoo Holidays terms and conditions apply to all bookings.
Kanoo World Traveller May 2011
Code: 038EA0911SA For more information call or contact any Kanoo Travel or Kanoo Holidays office.
COnCierge india | Cape TOWn | melbOurne | fiji
the 30 second concierge
Tim Weiland, amangari, india What can I expect on arrival at the resort? Journeying through rugged Rajasthan, you might well feel that your driver has completely lost his way. Then, suddenly, you enter a stunning oasis of mature date palms, eucalyptus and fruit trees, where turban-clad gardeners tend to manicured lawns. This is Amangari, where you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported to a paradise-like garden, where the pace of life is guided by the rising of the sun, rather than the ticking hands of a clock.
If I do one thing, both in and out of the resort, what should it be? The heart of our resort is the Spa Oasis – an open plan relaxation zone featuring various treatment rooms, a heated 33metre lap pool, wading pool, steam room and outdoor shower – it’s a must-try. Outside of Amangari, I recommend a trip to the ancient city of Bhangarh, which is a beautiful site to explore by day. During your excursion pay a visit to the old ruined city, the opulent palace and the surprisingly well-maintained temples.
Which is the best suite to book for luxury and privacy? One of our Pool Pavilions: set on the resort’s perimeter, each one has its own private swimming pool (cool in the summer and heated in winter) and spacious garden. Entry is made via a garden courtyard and, inside, you’ll find a spacious living area, bathroom and double doors which open on to a garden courtyard with its own covered dining and lounge area. You may even witness a parrot drinking from your pool in the mornings...
Where is the best place to sample the region’s cuisine? You shouldn’t miss the opportunity of organising a private Chattri dinner by the lake. This historic location has previously played host to emperors and Maharajas, and can be reserved for a couple or a group. Here you can savour simple Indian dishes, with most ingredients coming from our own vegetable and herb garden or from local suppliers. You won’t be disappointed. amanresorts.com
November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 69
visit
CAPE TOWN
South Africa’s second most populous city offers incredible scenery, ferocious wildlife and lip-smacking food, finds Jade Bremner
T
his multi-ethnic and gregarious place has a fascinating 350-yearold history and, though it’s a captivating holiday destination, it’s one you should explore with caution. Here, one of the world’s most deadly creatures resides, in the form of razor sharp-toothed great white sharks – and if they don’t leave your head in a spin, then the rest of Cape Town certainly will. A city drive reveals wealthy, gated communities and holiday havens situated next to deprived townships. However, scratch the surface and you’ll find ‘ubuntu’ (meaning ‘humanity to others’) runs deep. Elsewhere, the colourful area’s stunning mountains, glorious beaches and local charm will no doubt keep you coming back for more.
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MUST-DOS Visit Nelson Mandela’s prison cell (1) on Robben Island, where South Africa’s former leader spent 18 years and, if you want to learn more about his experience, spend a day touring the District Six Museum (districtsix.co.za) where you can find out all about this incredible man’s life, what he endured, and how he touched a nation. Go hot air ballooning (2) a little northeast of Cape Town. This gentle yet exhilarating activity offers views across the Swartberg Mountains, which you’ll float overtop in the crisp, morning air while soaking-up a bird’s eye view of Oudtshoorn in all its glory (oudtshoornballooning.co.za).
Scale Table Mountain (3) in one of two ways; by foot – and camp overnight along the way – or via the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway. So far, this cable car has delivered more than 18 million people to its summit for truly mesmerising views (tablemountain.net), but only the brave abseil down the 100 metre drop to its foot (abseilafrica.co.za). Noordhoek Beach (4) is the place to trek along kilometres of white sand with Sleepy Hollow Horse Riding (sleepyhollowhorseriding. co.za). En route, you’ll see an abundance of birdlife circling the wetlands, including flocks of flamingos. Plus, if you’re really lucky, you may even see whales and jumping dolphins
CApE Town | souTH AfriCA
Cape TOwn’S... arT SCene The Cape Gallery is set in the older part of town, and exhibits pretty work inspired by the area’s wildlife. Recent works, however, have shown modern African street art. Michaelis Collection Museum in Greenmarket Square is the place to view classic works from the Golden Age. South African National Gallery exhibits both local and global pieces, from paintings and sculpture to photography. Carmel Art review by Cavendish Square Mall sells a vast range of works, water colours and abstract canvases among them. along the coastline. The Iziko Planetarium (5) is a go-to spot
Courtyard Hotel Cape Town (8) (citylodge.co.za) promises a
for those with family in tow. Here you can watch a show that will seemingly transport you to outer space (iziko.org.za/sam). Spectacular light displays run daily, too, and makes for a great indoor activity on a rainy day.
stay with real character, thanks to its converted Dutch manor house building and a thatched barn in its grounds, where you can see the looming Devil’s Peak and Table Mountain in the distance. Eat at its Wild Fig restaurant, meanwhile, and you can tuck in to gourmet ostrich burgers or succulent sirloin steaks. Rooms from $127.
Come face-to-face with a great white shark (6). A staggering 98 per cent of the world’s shark population resides in South African waters and local dive outfits (try apexpredators.com), offer tours where snorkellers and divers are lowered into shark-infested water in a cage, while instructors lure in a real life ‘Jaws’ with chum (crushed, smelly fish), for a once-in-a-lifetime chance to see the predators up close.
Images: Shutterstock.
WHERE TO STAY Camps Bay Retreat & Spa (7) (campsbayretreat.com) is the place to go if you’re seeking a resort-style break. Book in to this laidback five-star retreat by the Atlantic Ocean and you’ll find yourself flanked by the stunning Twelve Apostles mountain range. It’s got four communal hotel pools to choose from, too, each of which overlook lapping ocean waves. Or, if you book a villa you can have a pool all to yourself. Rooms from $510.
WHERE TO EAT Marco’s African Place (9) (marcosafricanplace.co.za). Diners come here for its vibrant ambience and sheer variety of dishes. Every night you can witness a band playing African music and fronting lively jamming sessions, while staff stack your plate high with the likes of fried goat’s milk cheese, stuffed peppers, Madagascar springbok, ostrich fillet, kudu steak and crocodile tail. From $15 per head. Africa Café (10) (africacafe. co.za) .This fairly touristy spot serves up hearty spinach patties, peri peri-infused fish and meat specialties, including Ethiopian lamb. Alternatively, sample one of its healthy smoothies, such as lemon, honey, ginger and mint, or papaya, apple, banana and ginger. They’re the best it town. From $28 per head.
Opposite page, clockwise from left: Cape town city; Local colourful houses; Great white shark. This page: Table Mountain cable car.
1 ROBBEN ISLAND
10 5 3 7 9
CAPE TOWN 8
TABLE MOUNTAIN
TOKAI FOREST
2
4
6 TABLE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 71
visit
MeLBourne
Laura Binder seeks out winter sun and culture-soaked surrounds in Australia’s funkiest city...
A
sk any Melbournian and they’ll tell you their city is the coolest in all of Oz – superseding rival Sydney – and they could well be right. As Australia’s fashion capital, its streets are brimming with style-conscious people, while its endless museums and galleries place it at the top of the culture stakes. Despite its colourful persona, though, Melbourne moves at a chilled-out pace, with its gentile jump-on, jump-off tram system making sightseeing a stress-free jaunt about town. There’s a place to please every mood, too, from the Brighton-style beach charm of St Kilda’s, to the action-packed hub of Federation square. Wherever you go, though, layer up: the city’s erratic weather can go from shine to rain within the hour. But don’t let that spoil your trip...
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Kanoo World Traveller November 2011
MUST-DOS St Kilda (1) is the place to head for a serious helping of seaside charm. Palm-dotted promenades lead you past funky street cafes, down to the bay where you can surf the waves or stroll along its famous pier which, despite being part of a busy city suburb, is bizarrely home to a colony of penguins. Collins Street (2) is a fine example of Melbourne’s slicker side; Parisian-style streets of grandiose buildings that house countless high-end boutiques. Think of a mini Fifth Avenue, Down Under. South Melbourne
Market (3) is something of an institution here, having traded on its current site since 1864. Bag all manner of goodies from
its labyrinthine rows of stalls, from interior goods to fresh food stuffs. Well worth an afternoon’s meander. The State Library of Victoria (4) is a must-visit for bookworms and architecturelovers alike. Outside its classical façade is a sight to behold, while inside you can browse historic exhibits, artwork and books – just don’t leave without a visit to La Trobe Reading Room, whose stunning, octagonal, domed ceiling will have you reaching for your camera. Federation
Square (5) is a geometrical wonder of steel and glass. Its ample forecourt sets the stage for changing cultural events, from food festivals to live music and outdoor movies, which will keep you occupied all day.
MelBOurne | AuSTrAilA Opposite page, clockwise from left: Flinders Street station; Melbourne city waterfront; Squid at Donovans Restaurant. This page: View from The Langham Melbourne’s pool.
MelbOUrne’S... SpOrTing evenTS Spring racing Carnival brings the best of International thoroughbreds in six weeks of world-class racing action. Australian Formula 1 Grand Prix revs on to the tracks of Albert Park annually, next taking place on 15-18 March, 2012. Australian Tennis open The first of four Grand Slam tournaments is held at Melbourne Park every January. Melbourne Boxing Day Test Cricket is big here and this is one of the city’s most popular events, held at the 100,000capacity Melbourne Cricket Ground, the country’s oldest.
NORTH MELBOURNE
4 6
5
DOCKLANDS
7
SOUTHBANK
SOUTH WHARF
8
MELBOURNE
3
9
2
CREMORNE
ALBERT PARK
MIDDLE PARK
1
11 10
ST KILDA
And, if the weather takes a turn for the worse, you can duck in to one of myriad eateries or galleries which flank its square.
Chinatown (6) is accessed via two red archways, which lead you down cobbled streets and amid brick building that brim with quaint shops and the fragrant scent of sweet and spicy sauces. A thriving hotspot since the 1850s, it’s still the best place in town for dim sum. The City Lights Project (7) is one way to glean how Melbourne got its reputation for inspirational street art. Head off Centre Place and Hosier Lane where wall alcoves are dotted with lightboxes, inside of which local and international artists display their work, 24/7. WHere To STAY The Langham Melbourne (8)
Images: Shutterstock; The Langham Melbourne; Donovans.
(langhamhotels.com) is a classic pick for five-star luxury. Set on the Yarra River banks, you’re steps away from Federation Square and the famous Flinders Street station (the city’s first, built in 1864). Nurse tired, postsight-seeing feet in its elegant suites (we love its marble-clad bathrooms) or make for its Melba restaurant for fine fare by the riverside. From $266. royce Hotel (9) (roycehotels. com.au) is the place to go for big helpings of luxury in an intimate
form. Step inside, off trendy St Kilda Road, and you’ll find black chandeliers hanging over funky armchairs and animal-prints laying on the lobby’s marble floors. Little wonder, then, that its ultra-chic eatery and sultry Amberoom lounge are awardwinning hangouts (just don’t be surprised to spot a celeb or two while you’re there). From $245.
WHere To eAT Donovans (10) donovanshouse. com.au) is a former 1920s bathing house on St Kilda’s foreshore, which has been transformed into a cool eatery with a home-from-home feel (think natural timber walls and floors, open fire places and photo-laden walls). Its dishes - which are delectable - take inspiration from its seaside surrounds, with the likes of fresh oysters or linguine with seafood and western Australian scampi on the menu. From $24. Circa The Prince (11) (circa. com.au) offers seriously cool environs in which to savour equally artistic fare. Sat on the corner of Fitzroy, its owners collaborated with local designers to bring private dining rooms that look akin to a gallery. The menu, meanwhile, trades traditional courses with small plates, each of which serve up organic bites. From $17.
November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 73
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Kanoo World Traveller November 2011
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concierge | book your trip
win a night’s stay at six senses zighy bay, worth over $1,500 Make for Oman’s northern Musandam Peninsula and you’ll find the stunning Six Senses Zighy Bay, nestled between dramatic, rugged mountain ranges and kilometers of sprawling, cotton-white sands. It’s a sight to behold. Here, guests can seek retreat in one of 79 luxurious pool villas, decked out in rustic-chic decor (stone walls, conker brown woods and luxe trimmings), while, come nightfall, its Sense on the Edge restaurant (one of six dining and lounge options), is a must-try: perched on a hilltop, it’s a spectacular spot to savour international cuisine and drink-in Omani vistas...
THE PriZE Six Senses Zighy Bay is giving away a one night stay for two in a pool villa on a half board basis. For your chance to win, simply email the correct answer to this question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com before November 30, 2011.
Q. What is the name of the resort’s hilltop eatery? a) Sense on the Edge b) Six Senses c) Zighy’s Edge TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is non-transferable and must be taken by 15 March, 2012. Dates subject to availability and exclude 20 December to 11 January, inclusive.
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November 2011 Kanoo World Traveller 75
concierge | fiji
SuiTe dreamS
Image: Royal Davui Island resort
royal davui iSland, fiji
Sometimes, we all have to surrender ourselves to a spot of unadulterated rest and relaxation, and if you’re craving such an escape, there are few places that fit the bill better than Royal Davui Island’s beachfront villas. Teetering over Fiji’s oh-so-blue Beqa lagoon, a stay here will place you between the warm water’s rippling waves and an oasis of lush, wild plantlife. Plus, with just 16 villas peppered across the rich green landscape – and no little ones allowed – privacy is guaranteed. Take advantage of your tranquil yet tropical surrounds by spending sun-drenched days on your timber deck, taking invigorating dips in your private plunge pool, and seeking undisturbed slumber beneath cool, thatched roofs in a cotton-draped bed. And, if you want to delve even further into a relaxed state, request a therapist for a soothing, fragrant spa treatment in your suite – no need to budge an inch... royaldavui.com 76
Kanoo World Traveller November 2011