World Traveller Dec'14

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THE REGION’S BIGGEST LU XURY TR AV EL M AGAZINE

December 2014

Complimentary Copy

Issue Eighty THE

WINTER EDIT

FROM CHAMONIX TO COURCHEVEL, HERE'S WHERE TO LUXE OUT THIS SEASON

THE RETURN OF

Produced in International Media Production Zone

BERLIN EUROPE'S CAPITAL OF COOL

PARIS VS

NEW YORK

CHILLING IN

LAPLAND WITH MAN'S BEST FRIEND

IT'S TIME TO PICK A SIDE

5R5 5R5 5R5

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Let us arrange a personalised tour of the Grand Mosque. Let us introduce your children to the cultural wonders of Abu Dhabi. Let us offer you a choice of eight authentic restaurants every night. Let us leave you with sparkling memories of your beautiful stay.

*OUSJHVF :PV 0GGFS m $SFBUF GPOE NFNPSJFT GPS UIF FOUJSF GBNJMZ XIJMF delighting in stunning views and exploring historic sites of Abu Dhabi. Starting at AED 1,150++. Please call +971 2 8188888 or visit ritzcarlton.com/AbuDhabi.

Offer is valid for Deluxe Room, Club Room, Executive Suite and One-Bedroom Villa, includes a complimentary third night when two are booked and a daily breakfast. Rates and room types are subject to availability. Rate is per room per night, based on single or double occupancy, exclusive of taxes, gratuities, fees and other charges; does not apply to groups; cannot be combined with any other offer and is not applicable for Rewards redemption. Double supplement of AED 350 for Club rooms will apply. Advanced reservations are required. Complimentary night requires purchase and minimum length of stay, and will be credited at time of check-out. A stay is defined as consecutive nights spent at the same hotel, regardless of check-in/check-out activity. No refund or credit for unused portion. Void where prohibited. ©2014 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company

EDITOR’S

NOTE

ISSUE EIGHT Y, DECEMBER 2014

Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director

John Thatcher Business Development Director

Jason Brown Editor

Tracey Scott Deputy Editor

Richard Jenkins Features Editor

Lara Brunt Senior Designer

Adam Sneade Designer & Illustrator

Andy Knappett Production Manager

Chalitha Fernando To contact any of the above people, email firstname@hotmediapublishing.com

This month, every year, I’m nostalgic. From the fir trees, figgy pudding and festive gatherings to the tack, tinsel and turkey, ‘tis the season to be jolly. And so jovial are we, we’ve rounded up the best bits of the season and sprinkled them all over this issue. To kick things off, our Winter Edit (page 35) covers the hottest, newest and most luxurious places to luxe out this winter – make sure you take a moment (or two) to pore over what we’ve curated for you. Intrepid explorers who prefer to holiday in the fast lane will be better served turning to page 42 – where a snowmobile, and a pack of huskies, prove the perfect mode of transport in Lapland. Paris and New York take centre stage on page 48, where we pit the two cities against each other in our Tried and Trusted tour. For readers who prefer the heat of the Middle East to the chill of Europe, turn to page 68 and discover the best al fresco terraces on which to soak up the winter sun. Come sun or snow, I hope you enjoy the issue.

Jun-Dec 2013 | 23,167 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tracey Scott

TR ACEY@HOTMEDIAPUBLISHING.COM

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

3 Chalet N in Oberlech.

World Traveller

@WT_Magazine

December // 2014

CHECK IN 6-25

35

Be Here Now From winter pop-ups to 2014’s best new hotels, here’s what’s hot this month.

27

Style & Wellness Stylish airport additions plus the pick of this season’s spa openings.

DESTINATIONS 35

The Winter Edit We’ve rounded up the coolest winter experiences around the world.

42

Paw-wheel Drive Katie Grant experiences the exhilarating art of husky mushing in Swedish Lapland.

48

A Tale of Two Cities Eleanor Joslin discovers how opposites attract in Paris and New York.

68

54

Iconic Montenegro From monasteries to mountains, this Mediterranean gem is picture perfect.

58

Back to Berlin Twenty-five years after the fall of the Wall, Adrian Bridge returns to beautiful Berlin.

WEEKENDS 65

Everything you need to know about short-haul adventures.

42

67

48 hours in Faraya Pack your skis and get ready to party in Beirut’s hip resort. 4

68

Six of the best... Make the most of the weather with these al fresco terraces.

76

Stay & Play As we gear up for the Omega Dubai Desert Classic, test your skills at these golf courses.

December // 2014

48

58

TI M E O N YO U R S I D E when you feel something extraordinary, a rush of excitement, awe and wonder. moments that make us cry with happiness, that make us laugh until our tummies hurt, times we cant wait to experience again and again and again…

bringing wonderful back into our lives. nurai, your private island resort.

beach retreats . water villas . beach estates

gps: 24° 36.880’, 54° 28.567’ t: +971 2 5066 222 e: reservations@nurai.com w: zayanuraiisland.com

Check In

Check In Be Here Now TR EEHOTEL , SW EDEN If you’re looking to get away from it all this month, this unique eco-hotel is about as peaceful and remote as they come. Located in the village of Harads, 970km north of Stockholm, the Treehotel was inspired by > -Üi` Ã w >L ÕÌ Ì Àii city dwellers who rediscover their roots by building a treehouse together. There are six truly amazing tree rooms to choose from, including the Üi V> Õy>}i` ÀÀ ÀVÕLi° Approached by a 12m-long

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December // 2014

bridge and surrounded by forest, the cosy cube measures four-metres-square and features a double bed, en suite, lounge and rooftop terrace overlooking the Lule River valley. This being Sweden, there are two sauna houses to melt away your stress, while the local village (population: 600) has a restaurant and shop. Although you won’t want to miss the home-cooked meals lovingly prepared by your hosts, Britta and Kent. treehotel.se

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December // 2014

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December // 2014

Be Here Now T O K YO , J A PA N From technology to trains, fashion to food, the futuristic metropolis of Tokyo has always set the pace for the world to follow, while still remaining in touch with age-old traditions. And with a handful of new openings, it looks like the city’s luxury hotels are also upping their game. Leading the way is Aman Tokyo (amanresorts.com), an urban sanctuary occupying ĂŒÂ…i ĂŒÂœÂŤ ĂƒÂˆĂ? yÂœÂœĂ€Ăƒ Âœv "ĂŒi“>V…ˆ Tower near the world-famous Ginza shopping district and

World Traveller

opening this month. Inspired by traditional residential structures, classic materials such as timber, Washi paper and stone sit alongside modern technology and luxurious v>LĂ€ÂˆVĂƒ° i>Â˜ĂœÂ…ÂˆÂ?i] >ÂŤ>˜½Ăƒ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ Andaz hotel (tokyo.andaz.hyatt. Vœ“Ž ÂˆĂƒ Â?ÂœV>ĂŒi` ˜i>Ă€LĂž œ˜ yÂœÂœĂ€Ăƒ 47-52 of the city’s second-tallest skyscraper. It too blends modern and traditional, with sleek rooms featuring old-style partitions that let customise the space. Lost in Translation? We don’t think so.

December // 2014

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Stay connected to the heart of Dubai at Sheraton Dubai Mall of Emirates Hotel In a prime location, the hotel offers world class shopping together with a direct link to Dubai Metro, allowing you to conveniently explore the city. Connected to the Mall of the Emirates, explore over 560 international brands alongside the Middle East’s first indoor ski resort and snow park. After a luxurious shopping experience, relax by two rooftop pools or Vantage terrace overlooking the city. For more information and reservations, please call +971 4 377 2005 or email 03889.reservations@sheraton.com Reserve online for the best available rates: sheratondubaimalloftheemirates.com

©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com

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Globetrotter The Lowdown

From Dubai Shopping Festival to winter pop-ups, here’s all that’s hot in the world of travel

Shop ‘til you drop

Now in its 20th year, the Dubai Shopping Festival (DSF) attracts around 4.4 million visitors who part with Dhs15 billion between them. The month-long festival kicks off on January 1 with discounts of up to 75 per cent in 70 malls and 6,000 shops across the city. There are also amazing prizes up for grabs, including gold, luxury cars and cold hard cash, plus a host of events and performances.

Downtown & creekside

With over 1,200 stores, the sprawling iĂ›iÂ? -Â…Âœi ÂˆĂƒĂŒĂ€ÂˆVĂŒ >˜` ĂŒÂ…i Ă€i}ˆœ˜½Ăƒ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ Bloomingdale’s, The Dubai Mall should be your wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ ĂƒĂŒÂœ° iĂ?ĂŒ] Â…i>` Â˜ÂœĂ€ĂŒÂ… ĂŒÂœ Ă•Ă€ Փ>˜ vÂœĂ€ wall-to-wall couture, and then wander through the traditional souks by the creek. Across the Ăœ>ĂŒiĂ€] ĂžÂœĂ•½Â?Â? w˜` iĂƒĂŒÂˆĂ›>Â? iÂ˜ĂŒĂ€i] ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… ÂˆĂŒĂƒ Â“ÂœĂ€i manageable 400-odd shops. Don’t miss the wĂ€iĂœÂœĂ€ÂŽĂƒ `ÂˆĂƒÂŤÂ?>Ăž iĂ›iÀÞ ĂœiiÂŽi˜` >ĂŒ Ă›>Ă€ÂˆÂœĂ•Ăƒ locations along the creek. Photography: The festive window display at Harvey Nichols – Dubai

Around Jumeirah

If you’re seeking sunshine with your shopping, a stroll along Jumeirah Beach Road is just ĂŒÂ…i ĂŒÂˆVÂŽiĂŒ° 9ÂœĂ•½Â?Â? w˜` iVÂ?iVĂŒÂˆV LÂœĂ•ĂŒÂˆÂľĂ•iĂƒ >˜` Vœ˜ViÂŤĂŒ ĂƒĂŒÂœĂ€iĂƒ Â?ˆŽi >“L>Â…] /Â…i <œœ œ˜ViÂŤĂŒ and Garderobe. Mall-wise, there’s Sunset Mall, …œ“i ĂŒÂœ ĂŒÂ…i iĂ›iĂ€Â‡ÂŤÂœÂŤĂ•Â?>Ă€ 7iĂƒĂŒ Ć‚ ÂœĂ•ĂŒÂˆÂľĂ•iÆ iĂ€V>ĂŒÂœ >Â?Â? ­Ăœi Â?ÂœĂ›i Ă•Â?Â?iĂŒĂƒ E Ă•ĂŒĂŒiĂ€yˆiĂƒÂŽ >˜` Galleria Mall, with the new SoH Art + Beauty. 11

Al Barsha & beyond

The Mall of the Emirates is another big draw, with over 560 stores, the fabulous Fashion Dome with its 80 designer brands, and Harvey Nichols – Dubai (pictured). Dubai Marina Mall, meanwhile, has a great mix of high street stores and al fresco waterfront dining. And let’s not forget the spectacularly themed Ibn Battuta Mall, home to 275 stores. DSF runs until February 1, mydsf.ae World Traveller

December // 2014

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TOP OF THE POPS

WT rounds up this season’s best blinkand-you’ll-miss-them wintery spaces

LONDON

If there’s one city that loves a pop-up, it’s London. In the city’s east, hipster favourite The Queen Of Hoxton has welcomed back its fantastic WigWamBam rooftop tent (pictured). Decorated like a wintery woodland, it serves up warming concoctions like Egg Snog, alongside DIY toasted marshmallows and ironic origami workshops (until >ÀV Σ®° i>` } ÀÌ Ì > `i > ` ÃiVÀiÌi` away in the courtyard of Gordon Ramsay’s York & Albany restaurant-and-rooms is the Winter

>L ° iV i` ÕÌ i > Õ Ì } `}i Ü Ì tweeds, tartans and taxidermy, it’s available for exclusive hire for up to 12 guests, with toasty tipples and fabulous British fare from head chef Kim Woodward (until February 28). Meanwhile, Selfridges in the West End has transformed its À vÌ « Ì > Ƃ « i ÃÌÞ i ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì] i > iÌ by Q Grill, with hearty dishes like chicken schnitzel with blue cheese fondue and a hot chocolate cocktail bar (until late February).

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December // 2014

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A more permanent pop-up has sprung up in Monaco in the shape of the Monte >À *>Û Ã] wÛi vÕÌÕÀ ÃÌ V à «« } hubs inspired by the pebbles of the Riviera beaches. Housing 20 high-end L ÕÌ µÕià V Õ` } ÌÌi}> 6i iÌ>] Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, the striking aluminium pavilions will be in place for the next four years near Jardins des Boulingrins.

DUBAI

ÃiÀ Ì i] > iÀ ià >v>ÞiÌÌi >Ì The Dubai Mall has gone all out for its Winter Wonderland pop-up. With the tallest tree in town (adorned with 10,000 Swarovski crystals) and a festive market feel, there are live cooking demos, carol singing and kids’ activities, along with chalets packed with seasonal goodies and even a nightly sprinkling of ‘snow’. Until January 7. World Traveller

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FIRST-CLASS FRILLS

*** / i Ü À `½Ã wÀÃÌ yÞ } butlers take to the skies this month…

ISLAND TIME 7> Ì Ì V iV Ì Ì i Ü À `½Ã LiÃÌ L ÕÌ µÕi hotel? Time to head Down Under, as 5CHƂTG Freycinet, a 20-suite lodge on the east coast of Tasmania, scooped the top honour at the recent 7 À ` ÕÌ µÕi Ìi ƂÜ>À`à ` ° / i à > ` ÃÌ>Ìi >à Lii µÕ iÌ Þ > } > > i v À itself over the last few years, thanks to its pristine wilderness, fantastic food and grape, and avantgarde Museum of Old and New Art (MONA). This month, over 300,000 hungry foodies will

be at Taste of Tasmania in Hobart (from December 28 until January 3) to sample fat oysters and wallaby burritos, while musiclovers will be flocking to the Falls Festival at Marion Bay (from December 29 to January 1). Meanwhile, on the other side of the island, the stunning West Coast Wilderness Railway is launching two new itineraries, taking in magnificent rainforest and historic old gold towns. discovertasmania.com.au

NEW ARRIVALS

MIAMI NICE

Three new hotels that have made a splash

14

Miami Beach EDITION

Located between South Beach and North Beach, there are resort-style bungalows and a spectacular rooftop penthouse. edition-hotels.marriott.com December // 2014

Vintro Hotel & Kitchen

Thompson Miami Beach

/ Ã L ÕÌ µÕi Ìi Ì i >ÀÌÞ

à *>À i } L ÕÀ `] has a gorgeous art-deco exterior and 50 bright rooms. vintrohotels.com

Ãi Ì - ÕÌ i>V ] Ì Ã ÃÜ Ã hotel has retro-inspired rooms, a 1930s-style speakeasy and cuisine from Michelle Bernstein. thompsonhotels.com

If you’re lucky enough to have a ticket aboard Etihad Airways’ impressive three-room cabin, The Residence, which launches this month, you’ll not only have your own living room, shower and double bedroom but a Savoy-trained private butler, too. According to the hotel’s head butler, Sean Davoren, the 13 newlyµÕ> wi` yÞ } LÕÌ iÀÃ] who hail from countries as diverse as Jordan, Germany and Mexico, possess “the discretion of a traditional English LÕÌ iÀ Ü Ì Ì i ivwV i VÞ of a 21st century personal assistant”. / i wÀÃÌ LÕÌ iÀ Ü assume duty on Etihad’s >Õ}ÕÀ> ƂÎnä y } Ì Ì London on December 27, while the upper deck of the superjumbo will also have nine new First Apartments – private suites with a separate reclining lounge and full-length bed. Meanwhile, Qatar Airways will launch ƂÎnä y } ÌÃ Ì > } next month, following the inaugural service to London in October. They’re no slouch in the luxury stakes, either. First-class passengers can dine on Nobu cuisine and snuggle down in Missoni sleepwear. Forget the 1960s – it looks like the Golden Ƃ}i v yÞ } >Ã just begun...

In

INFOGR APHIC

CHECK

AMSTERDAM

881,000

THE CITY HAS

“ ”

VS BIK ES

““Amsterdam is to Holland what New York is

representative of Holland, but it’s more extreme, there’s more happening , it’s more liberal and more daring than the to America… it’s

PEOPLE

811,185

165 CANALS, SPANNING MORE THAN

100KM & CRISS - CROSSED

countryside.”

BY AROUND

1200

ANTON CORBIJN (Photographer)

Amsterdam is the 15th most visited city in the world, with 6.35 million visitors in 2013.

BR IDGES

Noord Westpoort

Centrum

Zeeburg

Slotervaart

Zuidoost

THE M AJOR IT Y OF A M S T ER DA M IS BEL OW SE A LEV EL

CLIMATE CHANGE MAY ONE DAY CAUSE IT TO DISAPPEAR

16

December // 2014

WORLD’S MOST BIKE-FRIENDLY CITIES*

(*According to Copenhagenize Index 2013)

1. AMSTERDAM, Netherlands 2. Copenhagen, Denmark 3. Utrecht, Netherlands 4. Seville, Spain 5. Bordeaux, France

The Van Gogh Museum is home to 207 paintings by the Dutch post-impressionist artist, the world’s largest collection.

More than 10,000 windmills once dotted the Dutch landscape and there are still eight to be found in Amsterdam.

In

CHECK

MY CIT Y

Dublin Interior designer Sara Cosgrove reveals the most stylish places to visit in Ireland’s capital My absolute favourite hotel is The Merrion for its fantastic service, dreamy art collection and the eponymous Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Ireland’s only twoMichelin starred restaurant. A more chilled option is Number 31, a boutique hotel masterfully designed by architect Sam Stephenson. For the best luxury shopping, Brown Thomas has all the mainstream brands, while Khan in Blackrock and Havana Boutique in Donnybrook are fabulous for women’s fashion. For interiors, head to the Powerscourt Centre, which has a wonderful range of art and homewares along with fashion and jewellery, Murphy Sheehy for fabrics, and Industry for cool collectibles and furniture. Design lovers should visit the Collins Barracks for amazing exhibitions, IMMA for modern art, and the Brocante Furniture Market to hunt for hidden gems. Ireland has so much design talent, but some of the most exciting are Martha Lynn Millinery on Baggot Street and Makers and Brothers for beautifully

curated homewares and furniture. If I had only 24 hours to explore, I’d start with breakfast at The Fumbally and then visit the Chester Beatty Library at Dublin Castle. A tour of the Guinness Brewery at St. James’s >Ìi à > ÕÃÌ ` ] w à } up at Gravity Bar, which has wonderful 360-degree views. I’d walk over O’Connell Bridge to Trinity College to soak up some academic atmosphere and visit the Book of Kells, which is such an incredible example of medieval art. I’d hop on a DART train to Sandycove and wander down to the James Joyce Tower and Museum, the setting for the opening scene of Ulysses. Walking back towards Dun Laoghaire, I’d pick up an ice cream at the legendary Teddy’s and walk the pier. Back in town, I’d head to O’Donoghues on Lower Baggot Street to sample a pint of black and listen to traditional music. Dinner would be at Super Miss Sue v À v> Ì>ÃÌ V wà À buzzy Mexican restaurant, 777, followed by cocktails and dancing at House nightclub.

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All the media you need, whatever your journey Book

17

Music

Film

App

FUNNY GIRL

MOTION

THE EQUALISER

JETSMARTER

Nick Hornby

Calvin Harris

Set in Blackpool, England, in the Swinging ‘60s, Hornby’s iÜ Ûi à > ÃÕÀi wÀi Ì°

The DJ’s fourth album is a `> Viy À w iÀ] Ü Ì Ì Àii number one singles so far.

Denzel Washington plays a former spy turned vigilante in this violent action thriller.

The “Uber of the sky” allows you to charter a private jet at the push of a button.

World Traveller

December // 2014

Check In

New kids on THE BLOCK Óä£{ Ã>Ü > À>vÌ v iÜ Ìi à «i >À Õ ` Ì i Ü À `° iÀi½Ã ÕÀ « V v Ì i LÕ V o

Alila Jabal Akhdar

18

Peninsula Paris Following an extensive four-year restoration, this belle époque gem in the 16th arrondissement was unveiled in August, >À } Ì i LÀ> `½Ã wÀÃÌ v À>Þ Ì ÕÀ «i° The building has been meticulously restored, with 200 rooms decorated in grey and cream tones, and discretely modernised, with interactive tablets that allow you to control every aspect of your stay, from ordering room service to V Ì>VÌ } Ì i V V iÀ}i° WT loves… The retractable roof at the à ÝÌ y À ½" Ãi>Õ > V ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì° paris. peninsula.com W Beijing The W’s location on Chang’an Avenue – Ü iÀi Þ Õ½ w ` Ì i ÀL ``i ÌÞ > ` Tiananmen Square – is as spot-on as its Û LÀ> Ì `ià } ° / i Î{ À à > ` ÃÕ Ìià > V Õ`i Ì i à } >ÌÕÀi 7 Li`] ÃÃ Ì iÌÀ ià and a digital tablet that controls the lighting > ` `] Ü i Ì i ÝÌÀi i 7"7 -Õ Ìi December // 2014

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has plenty of party space and a huge V ÀVÕ >À Li`° ̽à > > ` >½Ã ÃiV ` 7] with seven more hotels set to open within Ì i iÝÌ wÛi Þi>Àð WT loves… The honey-based treatments at Ì i ƂÜ>Þ -«> >Ài >à ÃÜiiÌ >Ã Ì iÞ Ã Õ `° starwoodhotels.com Park Hyatt New York "VVÕ«Þ } Ì i wÀÃÌ Óx y Àà v Ì i } ÌâÞ " ixÇ Ã ÞÃVÀ>«iÀ] *>À Þ>ÌÌ Ã Ì i } Ƃ«« i½Ã wÀÃÌ > À wÛi ÃÌ>À «i } Ài Ì > > `iV>`i° ƂÀÌ Ì> ià Vi ÌÀi ÃÌ>}i Ü Ì Îxä Ü À à ` ë >Þ V Õ` } > Õ}i « iVi LÞ - } >À * i Ì i LLÞ] Ü i Ì i Ó£ä rooms feature cool grey tones and customL i `i` i >L Ì iÌÀ ið / i > > ë>] meanwhile, is spread over the hotel’s top Ì Àii y Àà > ` L >ÃÌà «> À> V Û iÜà v Ì i > >ÌÌ> Ã Þ i° WT loves… The swimming pool with underwater speakers that play a soundtrack VÕÀ>Ìi` LÞ >À i} i > ° newyork.park. hyatt.com

Alila Jabal Akhdar Dramatically located on the edge of a gorge > ` Þ >VViÃà L i LÞ {Ý{] Ì Ã ÕÝÕÀÞ iV Àià ÀÌ Ã Ì i wÀÃÌ Ì «i " > ½Ã Ƃ > >À Õ Ì> ð / i Çn ÃÕ Ìià > ` Û >à come with private balconies or terraces and feature wood and stone interiors, alongside splashes of colour inspired by the fragrant « À ÃiÃ Ì >Ì L > iÌ Ì i >Ài> ëÀ }° There’s also a fabulous spa with private al fresco courtyards for post-treatment Ài >Ý>Ì ° WT loves… / i w ÌÞ « à i v Ì i ÃÌ Ã«iVÌ>VÕ >À Üi½Ûi Ãii ° alilahotels. com/jabalakhdar Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam Set on a picturesque canal and spread across six townhouses that date back to Ì i £ÈääÃ] Ì Ã i i}> Ì Î À Ìi à ÃÌii«i` ÃÌ ÀÞ° 7 Ì Li> i` Vi }Ã] sash windows and freestanding baths, you’d be forgiven for not wanting to leave Þ ÕÀ À ° / >Ì Ü Õ ` Li > à > i Ì Õ} ]

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World Traveller

December // 2014

Check In when spectacular cuisine awaits downstairs ˆ˜ ˆLĂ€ÂˆÂ?i½Ăƒ <Ă•ĂƒÂ?i Ć‚Â“ĂƒĂŒiĂ€`>“] >˜ iĂ?VÂ?Ă•ĂƒÂˆĂ›i collaboration with three-Michelin star Ă€iĂƒĂŒ>Ă•Ă€>Â˜ĂŒ i ˆLĂ€ÂˆÂ?i° WT loves‌ /Â…i Ă€iw˜i` VÂœVÂŽĂŒ>ˆÂ?Ăƒ >ĂŒ 6>Ă•Â?ĂŒ >Ă€] ˜>“i` >vĂŒiĂ€ ĂŒÂ…i ÂŁÂ™ĂŒÂ… ViÂ˜ĂŒĂ•Ă€Ăž L>˜Ž Ă›>Ă•Â?ĂŒĂƒ ĂƒĂŒÂˆÂ?Â? Â?ÂœV>ĂŒi` ˜i>Ă€LĂž° waldorfastoria3. hilton.com Shangri-La at The Shard "VVĂ•ÂŤĂžÂˆÂ˜} Â?iĂ›iÂ?Ăƒ ĂŽ{ ĂŒÂœ xĂ“ Âœv ,i˜âÂœ *ˆ>˜œ½Ăƒ Ă‡Ă“Â‡ĂƒĂŒÂœĂ€iĂž ĂŒÂœĂœiĂ€] ĂŒÂ…ÂˆĂƒ ÂˆĂƒ œ˜`œ˜½Ăƒ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ …ˆ}…‡ Ă€ÂˆĂƒi Â…ÂœĂŒiÂ?° /Â…i Ă“äĂ“ Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ >˜` ĂƒĂ•ÂˆĂŒiĂƒ >Ă€i among the largest in town and, due to the tower’s unique shape, each one is individual ˆ˜ Â?>ĂžÂœĂ•ĂŒ >˜` `iĂƒÂˆ}˜° Ć‚Â?Â? Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ vi>ĂŒĂ•Ă€i yÂœÂœĂ€Â‡ to-ceiling windows, marble-clad bathrooms ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… Â…i>ĂŒi` yÂœÂœĂ€Ăƒ >˜` Â…ÂˆÂ‡ĂŒiVÂ… iĂ?ĂŒĂ€>Ăƒ ĂƒĂ•VÂ… >Ăƒ automatic climate control and the bodyVÂœÂ˜ĂŒÂœĂ•Ă€ÂˆÂ˜} -Â…>˜}Ă€ÂˆÂ‡ > i`° WT loves‌ / Ă€iĂƒĂŒ>Ă•Ă€>Â˜ĂŒ œ˜ Â?iĂ›iÂ? ĂŽx Â…>Ăƒ Ă•Ă€ÂœÂŤi>˜ `ÂˆĂƒÂ…iĂƒ ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… >˜ Ć‚ĂƒÂˆ>˜ ĂŒĂœÂˆĂƒĂŒ >˜` Â?>ĂœÂ‡`Ă€ÂœÂŤÂŤÂˆÂ˜} Ă›ÂˆiĂœĂƒ Âœv /ÂœĂœiĂ€ Ă€Âˆ`}i° shangri-la.com/london

Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam

ÂœĂ•Ă€ -i>ĂƒÂœÂ˜Ăƒ ,iĂƒÂœĂ€ĂŒ Ă•L>ˆ >ĂŒ ՓiÂˆĂ€>Â…

Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach -iĂŒ œ˜ ÓÇ䇓iĂŒĂ€iĂƒ Âœv ˜>ĂŒĂ•Ă€>Â? Li>VÂ…vĂ€ÂœÂ˜ĂŒ] Â?Ă•ĂƒĂŒ > ĂƒĂŒÂœÂ˜i½Ăƒ ĂŒÂ…Ă€ÂœĂœ vĂ€ÂœÂ“ ĂŒÂ…i VÂˆĂŒĂž] ĂŒÂ…i 1Ć‚ ½Ăƒ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ ÂœĂ•Ă€ -i>ĂƒÂœÂ˜Ăƒ ÂˆĂƒ > ĂœiÂ?Vœ“i >Ă€Ă€ÂˆĂ›>Â?° Ć‚Â?Â? ÓÎÇ Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ >˜` ĂƒĂ•ÂˆĂŒiĂƒ Â…>Ă›i iĂ?ĂŒĂ€> Â?>Ă€}i L>Â?Vœ˜ˆiĂƒ ĂŒÂœ i˜Â?ÂœĂž ĂŒÂ…ÂœĂƒi Ăƒi> >˜` VÂˆĂŒĂž ĂƒÂŽĂžÂ?ˆ˜i views, while inside there are three-metre…ˆ}Â… ViˆÂ?ˆ˜}Ăƒ] “>Ă€LÂ?i >˜` Â“ÂœĂƒ>ˆVĂƒ° /Â…i resort looks set to become a top dining destination too, with 10 restaurant and lounges, including two by celebrity chef i>˜‡ iÂœĂ€}iĂƒ 6œ˜}iĂ€ÂˆVÂ…ĂŒi˜ >˜` ĂŒĂœÂœ ˜iĂœ Vœ˜ViÂŤĂŒĂƒ LĂž <Փ>° WT loves‌ /Â…i ĂˆääĂƒÂľÂ“ ,ÂœĂž>Â? -Ă•ÂˆĂŒi Vœ“iĂƒ with a grand living room and piano to “>ĂŒVÂ…° fourseasons.com/dubaijb Maalifushi by COMO This eight-hectare private island resort is ĂŒÂ…i wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ ˆ˜ ĂŒÂ…i >Â?`ÂˆĂ›iĂƒ½ ÂŤĂ€ÂˆĂƒĂŒÂˆÂ˜i /Â…>> Ć‚ĂŒÂœÂ?Â?° *>Â?“ ĂŒĂ€iiĂƒ] ÂŤÂœĂœ`iÀÞ Ăƒ>˜` >˜` ĂŒĂ•Ă€ÂľĂ•ÂœÂˆĂƒi Ăœ>ĂŒiĂ€Ăƒ >Ă€i > }ÂˆĂ›i˜] LĂ•ĂŒ ĂŒÂ…i Ăˆx Li>VÂ… >˜` over-water suites and villas designed by >ÂŤ>˜iĂƒi >Ă€VÂ…ÂˆĂŒiVĂŒ œˆVÂ…ÂˆĂ€Âœ ÂŽiLĂ•V…ˆ >Ă€i > “>ĂƒĂŒiĂ€VÂ?>ĂƒĂƒ ˆ˜ Â?>ˆ`‡L>VÂŽ Â?Ă•Ă?ÕÀÞ° œœ` ÂˆĂƒ vĂ€iĂƒÂ… >˜` ÂœĂ€}>˜ˆV] ÂŤÂ?Ă•Ăƒ ĂžÂœĂ• V>˜ >Â?ĂƒÂœ i˜Â?ÂœĂž " " Shambhala Cuisine, which features delicious and nutritious dishes that are raw, steamed ÂœĂ€ }Ă€ÂˆÂ?Â?i`° WT loves‌ The over-water, ocean-facing treatment rooms at the spa take some Li>ĂŒÂˆÂ˜}° comohotels.com/maalifushi 20

Hotel Zoo Ć‚ iĂ€Â?ˆ˜ Â?i}i˜` Ăœ>Ăƒ Ă€iLÂœĂ€Â˜ Â?>ĂƒĂŒ Â“ÂœÂ˜ĂŒÂ…] >Ăƒ ĂŒÂ…i ˆVœ˜ˆV ÂœĂŒiÂ? <œœ ÂœÂŤi˜i` ÂˆĂŒĂƒ `ÂœÂœĂ€Ăƒ œ˜Vi >}>ˆ˜° Â˜ĂƒÂŤÂˆĂ€i` LĂž ĂŒÂ…i }Â?>Â“ÂœĂ€ÂœĂ•Ăƒ }Ă•iĂƒĂŒĂƒ Âœv ĂŒÂ…i ÂŤ>ĂƒĂŒ] `iĂƒÂˆ}˜iĂ€ >ĂžÂ˜> ii Â…>Ăƒ VĂ€i>ĂŒi` Â?ˆ}Â…ĂŒÂ‡wÂ?Â?i` ÂŤĂ•LÂ?ˆV ĂƒÂŤ>ViĂƒ ĂƒÂŤÂ?>ĂƒÂ…i` ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… vibrant hues and opulent carpets, including > ÓӇ“iĂŒĂ€i‡Â?œ˜} Â?>`i Ă€Ă•Â˜Â˜iĂ€ ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… VĂ€ÂœĂ•V…ˆ˜} Â?iÂœÂŤ>Ă€`Ăƒ LĂž ˆ>˜i Ă›ÂœÂ˜ Ă•Ă€ĂƒĂŒi˜LiĂ€}° /Â…i ÂŁ{x Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ >˜` ĂƒĂ•ÂˆĂŒiĂƒ] “i>Â˜ĂœÂ…ÂˆÂ?i] vi>ĂŒĂ•Ă€i > ÂŤi>VivĂ•Â? ÂŤ>Â?iĂŒĂŒi Âœv ÂˆĂ›ÂœĂ€Ăž >˜` ÂœĂžĂƒĂŒiĂ€ Â…Ă•iĂƒ° WT loves‌ The bathroom goodies by December // 2014

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iĂ€Â?ˆ˜‡L>Ăƒi` ÂŤiĂ€vՓiĂ€ />˜Â?> ÂœV…˜ˆ} >˜` >ÂˆĂƒÂœÂ˜ >Ă€ĂŒÂˆÂ˜ >Ă€}ˆiÂ?> ˜ˆ}Â…ĂŒĂƒÂ…ÂˆĂ€ĂŒĂƒ° designhotels.com/hotel-zoo-berlin 4CHĆƒGU +UVCPDWN Ć‚ĂŒ ĂŒÂ…i Â…i>Ă€ĂŒ Âœv ĂŒÂ…i <ÂœĂ€Â?Ă• iÂ˜ĂŒiĂ€ ˆ˜ iĹŽÂˆÂŽĂŒ>ĹŽ] ĂƒĂŒ>˜LĂ•Â?½Ăƒ Â“ÂœĂƒĂŒ iĂ?VÂˆĂŒÂˆÂ˜} ˜iĂœ >Ă€Ă€ÂˆĂ›>Â? vi>ĂŒĂ•Ă€iĂƒ airy interiors with a contemporary, yet `ÂˆĂƒĂŒÂˆÂ˜VĂŒÂ?Ăž /Ă•Ă€ÂŽÂˆĂƒÂ… viiÂ?° /Â…i ÂŁĂŽĂ“ Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ >˜` {™ ĂƒĂ•ÂˆĂŒiĂƒ Â…>Ă›i yÂœÂœĂ€ ĂŒÂœ ViˆÂ?ˆ˜} ĂœÂˆÂ˜`ÂœĂœĂƒ and private balconies overlooking the ÂœĂƒÂŤÂ…ÂœĂ€Ă•Ăƒ] ĂœÂ…ÂˆÂ?i ˆVÂ…iÂ?ÂˆÂ˜Â‡ĂƒĂŒ>ÀÀi` -ÂŤ>Â˜ÂˆĂƒÂ… chef Sergi Arola works his magic in Arola >˜` ĂŒÂ…i 7Ă€ÂˆĂŒiĂ€½Ăƒ >Ă€ Vœ“iĂƒ ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… ÂˆĂŒĂƒ ÂœĂœÂ˜ VÂ…>“>}˜i Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“° WT loves‌ The signature rose, honey and ĂƒĂ•}>Ă€ Â…>““>“ iĂ?ÂŤiĂ€Âˆi˜Vi ˆ˜ ,>vyiĂƒ -ÂŤ>° Ă€>vyiĂƒ°VÂœÂ“Ă‰ÂˆĂƒĂŒ>˜LĂ•Â?

Â… i>VÂ…

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-ÂœwĂŒiÂ? ÂœĂœÂ˜ĂŒÂœĂœÂ˜ Ă•L>ˆ

World Traveller

1PG 1PN[ *C[OCP +UNCPF This private island resort was reborn as part Âœv ĂŒÂ…i iĂ?VÂ?Ă•ĂƒÂˆĂ›i "˜iE"˜Â?Ăž ĂƒĂŒ>LÂ?i ĂŒÂ…ÂˆĂƒ Ăži>Ă€] vÂœÂ?Â?ÂœĂœÂˆÂ˜} >˜ 1-fnä “ˆÂ?Â?ˆœ˜ Ă€ivĂ•Ă€L° ÂœV>ĂŒi` ˆ˜ Ć‚Ă•ĂƒĂŒĂ€>Â?ˆ>½Ăƒ 7ÂœĂ€Â?` iĂ€ÂˆĂŒ>}i‡Â?ÂˆĂƒĂŒi` Ă€i>ĂŒ >Ă€Ă€ÂˆiĂ€ ,iiv] ÂˆĂŒ Â…>Ăƒ > Ă€>˜}i Âœv V…ˆV Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“Ăƒ] suites, villas and penthouses to choose from, a number of pools set among lush gardens and two kilometres of pristine white Li>VÂ…° /Â…iĂ€i½Ăƒ > vĂ•Â?Â? Ă€ÂœĂƒĂŒiĂ€ Âœv >VĂŒÂˆĂ›ÂˆĂŒÂˆiĂƒ] vĂ€ÂœÂ“ diving and watersports to photography Â?iĂƒĂƒÂœÂ˜Ăƒ >˜` }ÂœÂ?v] ÂœĂ€ ĂžÂœĂ• V>˜ Li >Ăƒ Â?>âĂž >Ăƒ ĂžÂœĂ• Â?ˆŽi° WT loves‌ /Â…i *Ć‚ Ă•LLÂ?i“>ÂŽiĂ€ *Ă€Âœ}Ă€>“ ÂˆĂƒ }Ă€i>ĂŒ vÂœĂ€ iˆ}Â…ĂŒÂ‡ ĂŒÂœ £Ó‡Þi>À‡ ÂœÂ?`Ăƒ ÂŽii˜ ĂŒÂœ Â?i>Ă€Â˜ `ÂˆĂ›i L>ĂƒÂˆVĂƒ° hayman. oneandonlyresorts.com 5QĆ‚VGN &QYPVQYP &WDCK "ÂŤÂŤÂœĂƒÂˆĂŒi ĂŒÂ…i Ă•Ă€Â? Â…>Â?ˆv> “iĂŒĂ€Âœ ĂƒĂŒ>ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜ – and with an air-conditioned walkway connecting it to The Dubai Mall – this ˜iĂœLˆi ÂˆĂƒ ÂŤiĂ€viVĂŒ vÂœĂ€ ĂƒÂ…ÂœÂŤ>Â…ÂœÂ?ˆVĂƒ° /Â…i ĂŽxä rooms are decorated in warm tones with bright splashes of colour and funky optical art motifs, and come with deluxe French ĂŒÂœÂˆÂ?iĂŒĂ€ÂˆiĂƒ >˜` >˜ >Â?Â?‡vi>ĂŒÂ…iĂ€ Li`° /Â…iĂ€i >Ă€i also eight restaurants and bars including /Â…i ĂŽÂŁ] ĂœÂ…ÂˆVÂ… Â…>Ăƒ Ă•Â˜Ă€ÂˆĂ›>Â?Â?i` Ă›ÂˆiĂœ Âœv ĂŒÂ…i ĂœÂœĂ€Â?`½Ăƒ ĂŒ>Â?Â?iĂƒĂŒ ĂŒÂœĂœiĂ€° Ć‚Â˜` `ˆ` Ăœi “iÂ˜ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜ the spectacular spa? WT loves‌ /Â…i Ă›ÂˆiĂœ Âœv ĂŒÂ…i Ă•Ă€Â? Â…>Â?ˆv> vĂ€ÂœÂ“ ĂŒÂ…i Ăˆä‡“iĂŒĂ€i ˆ˜wÂ˜ÂˆĂŒĂž ÂŤÂœÂœÂ? œ˜ ĂŒÂ…i wvĂŒÂ…Â‡ yÂœÂœĂ€ ĂŒiÀÀ>Vi° ĂƒÂœwĂŒiÂ?°Vœ“ %JGXCN $NCPE 5V $CTVJ +UNG FG (TCPEG ÂœĂ€Â“iĂ€Â?Ăž ĂŒÂ…i ÂœĂŒiÂ? -ĂŒÂ‡ >Ă€ĂŒÂ… ĂƒÂ?i `i Ă€>˜Vi] this Caribbean hideaway opened in "VĂŒÂœLiĂ€ >Ăƒ ĂŒÂ…i ĂŒÂ…ÂˆĂ€` Â…iĂ›>Â? Â?>˜V “>ÂˆĂƒÂœÂ˜° /Â…i {ä ĂƒĂ•ÂˆĂŒiĂƒ] LĂ•Â˜}>Â?ÂœĂœĂƒ >˜` Ă›ÂˆÂ?Â?>Ăƒ ĂƒÂŤÂœĂ€ĂŒ a daring blush pink alongside otherwise ˜iĂ•ĂŒĂ€>Â? ÂˆÂ˜ĂŒiĂ€ÂˆÂœĂ€Ăƒ] ĂœÂ…ÂˆÂ?i ĂŒÂ…i ˜iĂœ Ă•iĂ€Â?>ˆ˜ spa has signature therapies and a bespoke fragrance created by Thierry Wasser, the Â˜ÂœĂƒi >ĂŒ Ă•iĂ€Â?>ˆ˜° Ć‚Â˜` Â?iĂŒ½Ăƒ Â˜ÂœĂŒ vÂœĂ€}iĂŒ ĂŒÂ…i dedicated butler to cater to your every whim and ‘alchemists’ who create tailor-made iĂ?ÂŤiĂ€Âˆi˜ViĂƒ° WT loves‌ /Â…i vĂ€iĂƒÂ… Ăƒi>vœœ` >ĂŒ > >L>˜i `i Â?½ ĂƒÂ?i] > viiĂŒÂ‡ÂˆÂ˜Â‡ĂŒÂ…iÂ‡Ăƒ>˜` ĂƒÂŤÂœĂŒ ÂœĂ›iĂ€Â?œœŽˆ˜} Â?>“>˜`Ăƒ >Ăž° stbarthisledefrance. chevalblanc.com December // 2014

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Chef ’s TOP TABLES In gourmet circles, the Galvin brothers are legendary, with a collection of French restaurants scattered across the UK. Here, Chris and Jeff Galvin share their top restaurants from around the world, and recommend the dishes worthy of your order

Photography: Ellen Silverman

Check In

1.

The Modern, New York, USA Order: Tarte Flambée

“The attentive team at The Modern always ensure that each guest receives a memorable welcome to match the iconic location in which the restaurant resides. The Museum of Modern Art is one of my favourite places in New York, especially when enjoying lunch at Danny Myers’ very attractive restaurant with spacious tables overlooking the museum’s sculpture garden. It’s one of the best views in the city – one I could never grow tired of.” – Jeff

Fischer Fritz, Berlin, Germany Order: Pressed Lobster

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“The restaurant overlooks one of Berlin’s most «ÀiÃà Ûi õÕ>ÀiÃ] > wÌÌ } V>Ì v À ÃÕV > w i dining experience. The pressed lobster is one of the best dishes I have ever had. It is expensive but there is a lot of painstaking preparation that goes into creating a dish as skillful as this, all performed in front of the customer. It’s pure theatre, made unforgettable by Ì i w iÃÌ ÕÃi v µÕ> ÌÞ }Ài` i Ìð / i «i wÀi and beautiful wood paneling make this restaurant the perfect setting to escape the city’s winter chill.” – Chris

December // 2014

2.

1. The Modern 2. Fischer Fritz 3. The roast grouse at The Square 4. The pressed lobster at Fischer Fritz

The Peat Inn, St Andrews, Scotland Order: The Tasting Menu

“I can’t choose one dish! A traveller’s treat, a warm welcome guaranteed from owners Geoffrey and Katherine Smeddle, genuine hospitality and some of the w iÃÌ V } > ` ÃiÀÛ Vi > ÞÜ iÀi° iÌ i vvÀiÞ V wonderful local produce served with a matching grape vÀ Ã >Ü>À` Ü } ÃÌÆ > ` L > À >Ì Ì i hotel as it’s hard to leave.” – Jeff

Troisgros Roanne, Lyon, France Order: Saumon à l’oseille

Photography: John Cazals (copyright 2012)

“Troisgros is the kitchen I want to cook in when I go to heaven, I worked here as a stagier and loved the family values and utter respect for seasonal ingredients. The food is beautifully cooked with enormous respect paid to tradition, yet evolution is ever present. The timeless Saumon a l’oseille is probably one of the most well known dishes in the world and is still brilliant today, I just wish I thought of it! Here’s a tip: ask to visit the kitchen of which they are rightly proud of.” – Chris

4.

The Square, London, England Order: Roast Grouse

3. World Traveller

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“I have been lucky enough to have eaten in both incarnations of this restaurant and I always have memorable meals there. Whether it is the beautiful > } ÕÃÌ i Ü Ì ÌÀÕvyi À Ì i À >ÃÌ }À ÕÃi] Þ Õ V> count on Philip Howard’s assured and masterful cooking Ì «ÀiÃÃ Þ ÕÀ Ãi ÃiÃ Ü Ì `ii« y>Û ÕÀÃ] Û ÃÕ> stimulation, all served with a wonderful sense of pace. He is always bang on seasonally, I often wander past and have a read of the menu outside and could tell you which season we were in.” – Jeff December // 2014

In

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ON TREND TR AV EL

Gazi, Athens

Since the 19th century, the Gazi district west of the Acropolis in central Athens was home to the capital’s old gasworks. After the factory closed in the 1980s, Gazi turned into a ghost town. Over the last decade, the area has seen massive regeneration, sparked by the redevelopment of the former gasworks into a multipurpose art and exhibition centre called Technopolis. The opening of Kerameikos metro station a few years ago made the neighbourhood more accessible and it’s since blossomed into the epicenter of Athenian art, culture and nightlife. Make the restored complex of furnaces and

`ÕÃÌÀ > LÕ ` }Ã Þ ÕÀ wÀÃÌ stop – it hosts a variety of music, dance, theatre and arts events throughout the year – and you can also explore the city’s past at the Industrial Gas Museum. A minute’s walk away is Gazarte, an industrial-chic cultural centre with a cinema showing ÕÀ «i> >ÀÌ ÕÃi w Ã] > bookstore with an eclectic collection of second-hand vinyl, and a restaurant and rooftop bar with impressive views of the Acropolis and surrounding neighbourhood. Housed in a Bauhaus building, Bios is another cultural hotspot on the outskirts of Gazi with avant-garde live music performances,

arthouse cinema and the newly renovated Tesla bar. The Benaki Museum Pireos Street Annexe, meanwhile, is a strikingly modern building organised around a central courtyard, which hosts contemporary arts and historical exhibitions, major international shows and musical performances. Gazi’s streets are full of buzzing restaurants, too, often with tables outside on the pavements during the warmer months. Opposite the metro, Mamaca’s is Gazi’s original neo-taverna, serving homestyle Greek and Mediterranean cooking with a modern twist amid minimalist surroundings. Kanella is

I WANT TO...

Inspiring ideas for your bucket list

…cruise the Galápagos Islands This ecological wonderland 960km west of mainland Ecuador inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution and continues to enthral visitors today with its remarkable wildlife – think marine iguanas and giant tortoises – and lunar-like landscapes. Only four of the 15 main islands are inhabited, and tourists can visit around 60 visitor sites spread across the archipelago. The best way to explore is by boat; opt for a week-long cruise, as you’ll Li ÌÀ>Ûi } v À ÕV v Ì i wÀÃÌ > ` >ÃÌ `>Þ] > ` v À > itinerary that includes Española, Fernandina and Genovesa islands, home to the best visitor sites. It’s a year-round destination, but December to June offers the warmest weather.

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December // 2014

another always-packed neo-taverna, while Sardelles dishes up reasonably priced seafood (don’t miss the house specialty sardelles, or sardines, baked in rock salt). Next door, the Butcher Shop ÃiÀÛià w i À}> V meats and Greek sausages, while Prosopa is a hip barrestaurant serving fantastic Mediterranean cuisine, along with some Greek favourites. The district is known for its nightlife, so make sure you check out Hoxton, a converted warehouse with an artsy vibe and eclectic music, the Intrepid Fox, a rockmetal joint with pool tables, and Shamone, a trendy club that mixes excellent cocktails.

In

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SPOTLIGHT ON

GOLD COAST

Australia’s ‘theme park capital’ offers up plenty of thrills and spills. Here’s our pick of the parks

Theme parks

Sights

Wet’n’Wild This huge water park has adrenaline-pumping waterslides (like the new Constrictor with triple 360-degree coils), along with more leisurely fun with a lazy river meandering through sub-tropical gardens and giant wave pool.

Surfers Paradise This glitzy city is the epicentre of the Gold Coast. It’s got beautiful beaches, great shopping, an emerging restaurant scene, buzzing nightlife and fantastic beachfront markets every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday night.

Warner Bros. Movie World Packed with rides and rollercoasters based on superheroes such as Superman and the Green Lantern, as well as stunt-driving shows and Kids’ Fun Zone where you can meet your favourite Looney Tunes characters like Bugs Bunny.

Main Beach The northern end of the Gold

>ÃÌ Ã > Ì « ÃÕÀw } ë Ì° Get Wet Surf School has daily lessons and a money-back guarantee you’ll stand up `ÕÀ } Þ ÕÀ wÀÃÌ V >Ãð ̽à > à home to high-end shopping at Marina Mirage and the swanky Palazzo Versace.

Dreamworld Combines rides like the Tower of Terror 2 (one of the tallest and fastest in the world) with animal attractions such as Tiger Island, where you can watch tigers play, and the Australian Wildlife Experience, which has over 500 native animals.

SkyPoint Climb Oz’s highest external building climb (at 270 meters) affords 360-degree views of the glittering coast and lush bushland beyond. An elevator whisks you to Level 77 in 42.7 seconds; once outside, it’s a trek up 298 stairs to the top.

Sea World This family favourite has a water park and thrilling rides such as the Storm Coaster, along with a whole host of marine animals including dolphins, polar bears and sharks. It’s linked to its own resort hotel by monorail.

Lamington National Park Renowned for its beautiful waterfalls and more than 160 kilometres of walking trails, Lamington is part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana rainforests, the most extensive subtropical rainforest in the world.

The insider...

Gary Lee from InterContinental Sanctuary Cove Resort on the best family-friendly activities With lush gardens and a beach lagoon pool, our hotel is perfect for families. The Family Fun Zone has a giant chess set, three-hole putting green, cricket and bocce. Tamborine Mountain offers uninterrupted views, great adventure trails and Gallery

World Traveller

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Walk with its boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. Meanwhile, at Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary you can meet a koala and feed a kangaroo, then tackle the treetops ropes course.

December // 2014

You can seek the help of one doctor.

Or you can turn to Mayo Clinic.

At Mayo Clinic, a team of experts works together for you. No wonder Mayo Clinic was recognized as the No. 1 hospital in the United States by U.S. News & World Report. Visit mayoclinic.org or mayoclinic.org/arabic to learn more. ROCHESTER , MINNESOTA , USA

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PHOENIX /SCOTTSDALE , ARIZONA , USA

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JACKSONVILLE , FLORIDA , USA

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Style&Wellness Look good, feel good

‘TIS THE SEASON

TO BE JOLLY

Evoke the scent of the season with our pick of fragranced gifts…

3.

4.

(1) Elixir Eau de Toilette by Penhaligon’s Scent: Cinnamon. penhaligons.com (2) Earth Tu Face body butter Scent: Cardamom. net-a-porter.com (3) diptyque’s holiday candle Scent: Pine. Harvey Nichols – Dubai

1.

2.

(4) Le Labo perfume oil Scent: Vanilla. lelabofragrances.com

SLOPE OFF AND DISCOVER OUR PICK OF WINTER SPA OPENINGS…

Brenners Park Hotel & Spa, Baden-Baden

Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach

Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl – Doha

VILLA STÉPHANIE

THE PEARL SPA

SPA BY CLARINS

One of Europe’s most historic spa towns has welcomed a new addition to its roster. The new spa, housed in the historic Villa Stéphanie adjacent to the existing hotel, will focus on four areas: beauty, detox and nutrition, emotional balance, and medical care. brenners.com/eng/villa-stephanie

ÕÀÀ> t / i ÕÀ -i>Ã Ã >Ã w > Þ opened in Dubai. From December 1, the luxury hotelier will be taking bookings for its exclusive spa. And after a quick glance at the menu (from gold leaf to chocolate) WT is a tad excited. Need we mention the indoor pool? fourseasons.com/dubaijb/spa

The newest hotel to open in Qatar’s capital has landed with a luxurious thump. Like the hotel, its spa is huge, with 23 treatment rooms, plunge pools, iÀL> ÃÌi> L>Ì Ã] wÌ iÃÃ ÃÌÕ` Ã] beach club and 150m private beach. It’s Ì i Ì V vv Þ ÕÀ y « y «Ã > ` Ài >Ý° kempinski.com/en/doha

World Traveller

December // 2014

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In

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TOTALLY

GIFTED

4.

Inspiring gift ideas for loved ones who travel…

FOR HIM

(1) Parrot headphones Buy for: Urbanites

1.

(2) Taschen’s 75 Years of Marvel Buy for: The young at heart

5. FOR HER

(3) Wiko

(4) Clarins beauty box Buy for: Glamorous folk

smartphone Buy for: Tech junkies

2.

(5) Aspinal

journal

Buy for: Inquisitive

travellers

(6) Asprey passport sleeve Buy for: / i ÃÌÞ i savvy

6.

3. AIRPORT ADDITIONS

Airports this side of the world are raising the bar on facilities. Here’s our pick of seasonal add-ons…

REFASHIONED

&

RELAXING

Dubai International Airport

NEW BOUTIQUE

Abu Dhabi International Airport

Hamad International Airport

NEW HOTEL

NEW TERMINAL

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Find yourself in the departure lounge with a few minutes to spare? Then head straight to Terminal 3A and step inside Chanel’s new Peter >À `ià } i` L ÕÌ µÕi° Set across 209sqm, there’s « i ÌÞ v ` ÕL i } ` ià (from handbags and jewellery to jackets and shoes) to keep you busy until take off.

December // 2014

The capital’s airport has been given a luxurious boost with the opening of National Aviation Services’ VIP terminal. Located next door to the main terminal, this stylish sanctuary offers private check in and a host of complimentary amenities before departure.

Whether you’re in between y } ÌÃ À ii` Ã iÜ iÀi to catch forty winks before picking up your connecting y } Ì] >VµÕ> Ì Þ ÕÀÃi v Ü Ì The Airport Hotel and Vitality Spa. Located in the south node of the airport, there are 100 rooms available so be quick. We’ve got our eye on Ì i Óx iÌÀi ÃÜ } « °

The Cape Grace in South Africa’s Cape Town has unveiled its newly renovated swimming pool and outdoor relaxation area. Located along the V&A Waterfront, framed by Table Mountain, the reimagined pool area has taken inspiration from the sea, with large sail structures installed for shade and bespoke >ÕÌ V> ë Ài` vÕÀ ÌÕÀi for lounging. New features include a sunken lounge, w ÌÞ « > ` ÃÌÞ Ã bar. Time to grab your bikini. capegrace.com

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World Traveller Holiday Offers Netherlands Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht 3 nights from USD515 per person Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free. Includes: Stay in a Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til March 16, 2015.* *blackout dates apply

Italy Boscolo Aleph Rome 2 nights from USD325 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction. Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return private airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til February 28, 2015.* *Blackout dates apply, minimum stay 2 nights

Greece Hotel King George, Athens 4 nights from USD510 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free. Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til April 30, 2015.

How to Book 30

You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

December // 2014

Zanzibar Baraza Resort & Spa 4 nights from USD1,020 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free plus complimentary return airport transfers. Includes: Stay in a Garden View Villa on an All Inclusive basis. Validity: Now ‘til Mar 15, 2015.

Sri Lanka

South Korea

Vivanta By Taj Bentota 3 nights from USD470 per person Special offer: Upgrade to next available room category. Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til Mar 31, 2015.

Grand Seoul Parnas 3 nights from USD2,035 per person. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, half-day river and Nanta Show tour and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til February 28, 2015. *blackout dates apply

Malaysia Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur 3 nights from USD340 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til February 28, 2015.* *blackout dates apply

Indonesia The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali 3 nights from USD315 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Garden Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Offer valid: Now ‘til March 31, 2015 (excludes Dec 24-Jan 5).* *book by December 20, 2014.

World Traveller

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December // 2014

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Italy

Mauritius

Hotel De Russie Rome 2 nights from USD716 per person. Special offer: 10% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til February 28, 2015.* *14 days advance purchase, minimum stay 2 nights, city tax not included, blackout dates apply

The Westin Turtle Bay Resort & Spa 4 nights from USD960 per person. Special offer: 50% room rate reduction. Includes: Stay in an Ocean Deluxe Room on an All Inclusive basis with return airport transfers. Validity: December 14, 2014-January 31, 2015.* * blackout dates: Dec 22, 2014–Jan 2, 2015

Designed by Tommaso Ziffer, the sleek and cool 122-bedroom Hotel De Russie on Rome’s fashionable Via del Babuino, which runs between the Spanish Steps and the Piazza del Popolo, is a must stay. A favourite with the Hollywood A-list, the hotel is famous for its stunning terraced gardens, Ü V vi>ÌÕÀi > Li>ÕÌ vÕ LÕÌÌiÀyÞ >à ð

The Westin Mauritius Turtle Bay Resort & Spa is located in a peaceful spot in the historic Balaclava area, facing the idyllic Turtle Bay, a protected marine park. Natural tropical elements like local teak and lava rocks blend with contemporary design to create a serene and elegant hotel.

Thailand

Conrad Koh Samui 3 nights from USD1,040 per person. Special offer: Receive a complimentary upgrade to next room category. Includes: Stay in an Ocean View Pool Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Validity: Now ‘til February 28, 2015. Comprised of 80 private villas – each vi>ÌÕÀ } Ì i À Ü £ä iÌÀi w ÌÞ « overlooking a pristine beach – sprawled across 25 acres of dramatic hillside, this incredible resort in boasts unobstructed ocean views and sumptuous amenities.

Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara

Qatar

Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara 1 night from USD160 per person. Special offer: 10% room rate reduction plus guaranteed complimentary upgrade to Deluxe Sea View Room. Includes: Stay in a Premier Room with breakfast daily. Validity: Jan 1-31, 2015. A 20-minute luxury yacht crossing from Doha stands the long-awaited Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara. This is a true Arabian hideaway in the heart of Doha, with 141 rooms, suites, pool villas and over-water villas setting the mood for romance and unforgettable holidays.

Conrad Koh Samui

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Hotel De Russie Rome

December // 2014

The Westin Turtle Bay Resort & Spa

ROB ARROW Toronto takes centre stage

While it might not have the instantly recognisable icons that its counterparts in the US have, Toronto is a city that offers a sense of adventure and geniality from the moment you touch down. Located on the banks of Lake Ontario, a vast expanse of water that naturally keeps the city cool in the summer before freezing over in the winter, the city is compact and almost takes on a village appeal with most neighborhoods radiating from the Central Business District around King Street West. Despite its down to earth nature and appearance, Toronto is one of the wealthiest cities in the world > ` Ü Ì Ì Ã] V ià > }Ài>Ì yÕÝ v fantastic hotels and restaurants. Toronto has seen a boom in its hotel scene of late, from the opening of the stunning Four Seasons in Yorkville to the dazzling Trump International Hotel & Tower Toronto. Hotels also worthy of a mention include the Ritz-Carlton Toronto, offering great views of the CN Tower, and the Shangri-La Toronto, with its amazing eateries. Using Toronto as your base, visitors can also head to the east of Canada for some exploration, or jet further to the West Coast. Sticking with Toronto, though, and there’s a fantastic shopping experience to be had. With myriad global brands, independent retailers and one-off boutiques, updating your wardrobe is a prerequisite for any discerning traveller to the city. If your visit coincides with winter, then you’ll notice that the city moves underground, where a huge PATH tunnel system (a network of pedestrian tunnels beneath Downtown Toronto) links most of the city with its warm, cosy walkways. Foodies should stop by the St. Lawrence Market, where a patchwork of 120 specialty vendors sell everything from meats to olive oils and cheeses. From the market, head to Bull Dog

vvii v À > V>vvi i wÝ q « Ãà L Þ i v Ì i V Ì޽à w iÃÌ V vvii ÕÃià > ` > ÃÕÀiwÀi Ü>Þ Ì ii« Ì i Ü ÌiÀ V >Ì bay. To book a trip to Toronto or another part of Canada, visit your nearest dnata outlet or call +971 4 316 6666.

FROM THE PAST TO THE FUTURE Rediscover the Middle East on board our pick of luxury cruise ships

Costa neoRiviera With Costa neoRiviera connoisseurs will discover a new way to travel: longer stopovers you can enjoy to the full, exclusive and unusual destinations, an experience far away from the usual routes, more intimate spaces and comfortable and personal cabins. Costa neoRiviera is inspired by the charm and atmosphere of the Italian Riviera, Ì i Ìi `½ƂâÕÀ > ` Ì i Ƃ > w >ÃÌ° i seduced by its new charm. Destination: United Arab Emirates, Bahrain. Itinerary: Dubai, Bahrain, Abu Dhabi, Khor Fakkan, Dubai. Best available cabin: Starting from USD670* Ship: Costa neoRiviera Length: 7 nights Embarkation port: Dubai Departing dates: Jan 4, 11, 18, 25; Feb 1, 2015. Costa Serena Costa Serena is a majestic ship, made fascinating by its ancient-Rome inspired interior. Wellness, sport, entertainment and cultural experiences account for some of the onboard attractions, making for a unique and unforgettable holiday. Destination: United Arab Emirate, Oman Itinerary: Dubai, Muscat, Khasab, Abu Dhabi, Dubai. Best available cabin: Starting from USD670* World Traveller

Ship: Costa Serena Length: 7 nights Embarkation port: Dubai Departing dates: Jan 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, Feb 1, 2015.

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*Price per person, cruise-only based on 2 adults sharing the lowest cabin grade. Port charges excluded. For more information, call +971 4 316 6666 or email contactcentre@ dnata.com December // 2014

THE

WINTER EDIT Need a seasonal escape? We’ve rounded up the hottest, newest and most luxurious winter experiences in the world

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World Traveller

December // 2014

The Winter Edit

Cheval Blanc, Courchevel

FRANCE

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L’Apogée, Courchevel

Cheval Blanc, Courchevel

L’Apogée, Courchevel

As soon as you see the huge mirrored horse proudly standing outside this fivestar collection of lodges, you know that Cheval Blanc is something different. For this season, the resort is unveiling Peter Marino’s exciting new design for The White Restaurant; and a brand new chalet by Sybille de Margerie. This threebedroom suite stands alone and contains its own spa and outdoor areas. courchevel.chevalblanc.com

You can’t have a holiday without a dreamdining destination thrown in, and that’s why the owners of L’Apogée have this month opened The Arts Club’s Japanese restaurant, Kyubi. The rest of the hotel’s dining options have also been upgraded for the 2014/2015 ski season, and Le Comptoir de L’Apogée has also been totally transformed – the Japanese theme extends to its new sushi counter. lapogeecourchevel.com

The Patrice, Three Valleys resort Meribel

Les Fermes de Marie, Megève

Perfect for large groups or families, this new free-standing property offers luxury accommodation for up to 24 guests. Set over three floors, the beautiful stoneand-wood structure also has a lovely open terrace with a hot tub – just the place to rest any weary limbs after a day of hard skiing. Guests are also looked after by a team of chalet hosts that live nearby, to make your holiday as relaxing as can be. les3valleys.com

Pure Altitude is the name of the stunning new spa at this five-star ski resort, and it’s right on both parts. The hotel is laid out as a small hamlet, high in the Alps, and the new wellness area dedicates itself to the rhythms and purity of nature to heal the body and generate real relaxation. The cool pebbles and glass of the lap pool sum up the rest of the spa and hotel – just looking at it makes you want to dive in. en.fermesdemarie.com

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Hotel des Dromonts, Avioraz

OFF PISTE ··· There’s no better way to get a view of the Alps than from the air – and several hotair balloon companies in Chamonix will get you up there for this incredibly bracing experience.

Hotel des Dromonts, Avoriaz

The height of winter glamour was without a doubt the Swinging Sixties. That charming decade is recreated faithfully here in the heart of the Portes du Soleil ski area, where the colourful and preppy style of the ‘60s is alive and well – even if the hotel is brand-new for December 2014. Don’t miss the outdoor Jacuzzis, where you can admire the hotel’s unique architecture in the warmth. en.hotelsdromonts.com Altapura, Val Thorens

December sees the launch of Europe’s highest ice-skating rink at Altapura – the highest “ski palace” in Europe, and Val Thorens’ first five-star hotel. The exclusive ice rink is reserved for the use of hotel guests and sits at an altitude of 2,300m. The hotel’s design takes inspiration from Nordic history, and also holds a 1,000-metre-square spa for – quite literally – the height of alpine relaxation. en.altapura.fr

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Altapura, Val Thorens

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The Winter Edit

ITALY

Nira Montana, La Thuile

Newly opened in the ski resort of La Thuile, the Nira Montana is the best place to experience the awe-inspiring Mont Blanc. The hotel has just 55 rooms, all with terraces or balconies, and its cosy restaurant offers fine cuisine using fresh Italian ingredients. Perhaps its finest point is the Nira Spa, which has six treatment rooms, a spacious pool, steam room and sauna. nirahotelsandresorts.com Rosa Alpina, San Cassiano

A traditional spirit meets contemporary style at this five-star winter resort, high in the Dolomite mountains. This is a gastronaut’s paradise, as the food options range from informal and family dining up to the two-Michelin starred Restaurant St. Hubertus. The Hubertus’ menu is packed with treats like duck liver mousse, mountain lamb and the freshest of fish dishes. rosalpina.it Aman Canal Grande Hotel, Venice

While the watery city is packed to the rafters in summertime, over the winter months tourism drops to a fraction of its peak height – making it an ideal time to visit. See the city as it lives its own life, out from under the weight of tourism – when the architecture is given a stunning coat of snow. The Aman Canal Grande Hotel is the city’s most luxurious, and its charming roof terrace will let you view the snow-capped Dolomites in comfort. amanresorts.com/amancanalgrandevenice La Perla, Corvara, Badia

The beautiful Dolomite mountains house this charming and luxurious ski retreat. The Costa family welcomes guests personally, and is proud to show off his hotel and its amenities. There is a small motorbike museum with jaw-dropping pre-war bikes, a quaint shop and stunning fireside lounge, but it’s the great outdoors that is the true draw to the area: you can learn how to listen to the mountains and take a trip to the stunning ice cave at the foot of the Santa Croce Mountain. hotel-laperla.it

La Perla, Corvara

OFF PISTE ··· 38

The Valle d’Aosta is tucked away in the northwest of Italy, between Switzerland, France and Piedmont. The cuisine is a mixture of all these mouthwatering cuisines, so foodies should make this a priority.

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Nira Montana, La Thuile

NORWAY Winter Safari

The wildlife in Norway is varied and beautiful. From the snowy tundras of Svalbard where polar bears and arctic wolves roam, to the waters around Trømso where you can spot humpback whales and huge colonies containing millions of puffins, a Norwegian winter safari is a wonderfully festive alternative to the usual “Big 5” you might see in Kenya. Many different Norwegian towns offer their own versions, and the best place to start looking is the Norwegian visitors’ website or call dnatatravel on +971 4 316 6666. visitnorway.com The Northern Lights, Trømso

Nature’s most spectacular light show is visible over the winter months in northern Norway, and the town of Trømso is a great place to get a view. The science behind the incredible light show is quite simple – particles from solar explosions thrown

out of the sun reach earth, and are drawn to earth’s magnetic poles, where they release their energy upon colliding with the atmosphere. The Rica Ishavshotel is a great place for sky watching. rica.no Hotel Union Øye, Hjørundfjord

For a Norwegian experience like no other, this boutique hotel, which can be reached by boat from Ålesund, has been providing memories for travellers since 1891. With just 27 carefully appointed rooms, the hotel has been a favourite venue of royalty, writers and explorers for generations. Cycling, walking and even kayaking trails abound in the beautiful natural scenes that will greet you on waking up. unionoye.no Ice Hotel, Alta

Opening on January 6, 2015, the stunning Sorrisniva Igloo Hotel will give you a night to remember. Designed for singlenight stays, the hotel will pick you up

from the town of Alta and take you to your frosty abode. While the temperature inside the frozen walls is around minus 5 degrees, you’ll remain toasty in reindeer hide sleeping bags, or in the hotel’s deliciously heated sauna. If a sub-zero night’s sleep seems a bit too much for you, day visits are also available – just don’t forget to bring a hat. sorrisniva.no Stranda Ski Resort, Sunnmore

Norway is the home of skiing, and there is no shortage of places to strap on some wood and get out for an adventure. With 17 downhill slopes of varying difficulty, for those that are new to the sport this is the perfect place for a beginner family trip. It’s not all about shooting yourself downhill, either: there’s a gentle, 15km cross-country track that’s just right for getting used to the feeling of skis on your feet – and, for visitors from the Middle East, snow falling on your head. strandafjellet.no

OFF PISTE ··· In Finnmark you can book a dog-sledding tour under the Northern Lights in the Pasvik Valley on the Russian border. The hardy little huskies will pull you faster than you think – so hold on tight.

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Stranda Skiing, Sunnmore World Traveller

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The Winter Edit

SWITZERLAND

Clinique La Prairie, Montreaux

The most famous winter-holiday spot in the world celebrates 150 years of entertaining guests this season, with a host of activities and events taking place over the next few months. The highlight is undoubtedly the St. Moritz City Race (December 5), where celebrities and guests compete in a parallel slalom through the city itself. Think the Monte Carlo Grand Prix on skis, only with even more glamour. engadin.stmoritz.ch

With a total refurbishment recently completed, this wonderful spa facility on the shores of Lake Geneva has everything a body needs to get into shape. However, it’s not just for relaxation – the “Clinique” part of the name is apt, because many clients approach with a specific ailment they want, and usually get, corrected by the highly trained staff. Guests are also treated to the clinic’s limousine service to enjoy all the sights of Switzerland. laprairie.ch

The Alpina, Gstaad

Dolder Grand

The five-star hotel cosmopolitan Gstaad opens for the winter season on December 5, with a host of interesting new activities. The Six Senses Spa Good Night Retreat, available from December 5-11, is a threeday sleep retreat that combines wellness activities with a selection of spa treatments specifically designed to get your sleep patterns as good as can be – using the alpine air, which has higher ion levels than usual and is proven to aid sleep. thealpinagstaad.ch

Zurich is an absolute winter wonderland, and the stunning Dolder Grand is like a fairy-tale castle made real. Overlooking the picturesque city of Zurich and the lake and snow-covered Alps, the Dolder Grand is one of Switzerland’s jewels. It also has its own ice-skating rink, and this year is hosting a special New Year’s Eve party in its exquisite ballroom – perfect for a romantic getaway and the ideal way to start 2015 in serious style. thedoldergrand.com

St. Moritz

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Chetzeron Crans Montana

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Clinique La Praire, Montreaux

The Chedi, Andermatt

Possibly the most indulgent addition to our entire Hotlist, the Chedi at Andermatt offers the ultimate solution to lugging heavy skis around the slopes – its unique Ski Butler Service. These knowledgeable pros will not only carry your equipment for you, they’ll recommend answers to all your needs, as well as having up-to-the-minute tips about the day’s ski conditions and insider secrets. ghmhotels.com/en/endermatt Chetzeron Crans-Montana

Another new hotel from the Design Hotels collection, the Chetzeron in Crans Montana is brand-new for December 2014. At 2,112m above sea level, overlooking the Rhone Valley and the Alps, this hotel was converted from

an old gondola station – making it one of Switzerland’s quirkiest. It has just 16 rooms and suites, which also makes it one of the country’s most exclusive – so book quickly. chetzeron.ch Four Seasons, Geneva

The (relatively) new Spa Mont Blanc at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva has to be seen to be believed. Each month there is a new theme for massages – targeting the back, skin or other problem areas, and the spa itself is one of the biggest in Switzerland. It’s the perfect place to use as a base camp while out skiing on the nearby mountains, to recharge the batteries before a day on the slopes. fourseasons.com/Geneva

OFF PISTE ··· Think you know your local golf course pretty well? Try teeing off on one that’s covered in snow, like the course at the InterlakenUnterseen. It’s a whole new game.

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Dolder Grand, Zurich

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Lapland

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December // 2014

THE TRIP WITH A PAW-WHEEL DRIVE Amid the wintry wilderness of Swedish Lapland, Katie Grant hooks up with a pack of dogs and masters the exhilarating art of husky mushing

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Lapland

Opening page: Mushers compete in a sledding race. This page, clockwise from top left: A valley looking towards the gateway to Lapland; The frozen landscape; A husky dog. Next page: The Northern Lights.

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s another festive season approaches, the lure of Lapland has never been stronger, not least with the potential for exceptional displays of the Northern Lights. There’s also no shortage of snow and it’s that which drew me to the Arctic wilderness of Swedish Lapland, to try my hand at mushing my own team of dogs. I arrived in the village of Kauppinen, near Sweden’s most northerly city, Kiruna, and was welcomed into the homely Mushers’ Lodge, run by seasoned dog-sledder Jan Borinski. By mid-afternoon it was already pitch black and the temperature had plummeted to below -30C. My body was tricked into tiredness and by 8pm I was in bed, where I was serenaded by a cacophony of demonic sounding howls and wails emanating from the 70 rowdy huskies residing outside my window. So, less Santa’s grotto, more Satan’s grotto, then. At first light, my two fellow mushers and I were introduced to our teams of dogs, which had been entrusted to transport us via the dense forests and frozen lakes of Jukkasjarvi to our wilderness basecamp, 50km to the east. Jenny, Ost, Bico and Jim were creatures possessed, tearing around their enclosure, baring their teeth, barking hysterically and bouncing up and down on the roofs of their kennels like trampolines. “Walkies!” I announced nervously, attempting to get on their good side. By nature, huskies are athletic and energetic dogs with thick coats and pale, piercing eyes. December // 2014

The practice of using dogs to pull sledges dates back to at least 2000BC. Snowmobiles present a more convenient mode of transportation these days but, thanks to the cultural significance of sled dogs, husky mushing remains common in Lapland. My four dogs, having rested for the previous couple of days, slobbered and trembled uncontrollably in anticipation of the day’s running. Meanwhile, I battled with a jumble of ropes, legs and tongues and harnessed them up to the front of my sledge, before stepping on to the two skis attached to the back. Jan instructed me to move on to my brake plate as he tugged the anchor, which had been holding my dogs back out of the icy ground. While they strained to run forward, I tried to listen to Jan’s brief, which was, well, brief: never let go of the

The dogs shot off like a bullet, pounding through the snow sledge; stand on the brake plate when you need to stop; chances are you’ll fall off a few times, but don’t worry, the snow is soft; and watch out for splashback – the dogs like to go to the loo “on the run” and you’ll be first in the firing line when their business flies back. In our convoy of sledges I was positioned second, just behind Jan. Unable to contain themselves a moment

WHERE TO STAY ··· Before heading out into the wilderness crest up at the five-star Nobis Hotel in Stockholm (assuming this is your arrival airport). Occupying two late 19th-century buildings on Norrmalmstorg Square, there are 201 contemporary rooms to choose from and various seasonal offers. On arriving in Kiruna Airport, head for the Hotel Vinterpalatset, a basic yet comfortable 21-room hotel located within walking distance of Kiruna’s town hall, or Järnvägshotellet, one of few railway hotels kept in Sweden. For information visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

longer, my dogs attempted to take flight prematurely – the fact that I had my full bodyweight pressed firmly on the brake plate did little to deter them. However, their bid for freedom was promptly halted by Jan’s sledge, which was blocking their way and which they hurtled directly into. Turning around to gesture it was time to set off, Jan must have detected a flash of terror in my eyes. “Don’t worry,” he assured me, “it’s as easy as riding a bike.” With that, he stepped off his brake plate and immediately disappeared into the distance. “But… I can’t ride a bike,” I thought, starting to fret. With my two fellow mushers waiting behind me, their dogs growling with impatience, I had no choice but to take a deep breath and tentatively step off my own brake too. Whoosh! The dogs shot off like a bullet, pounding through the snow, hot on the heels of Jan’s leader pack. I quickly adjusted to the strange sensation of the ground sliding away beneath my feet and my confidence grew as I whizzed smoothly along the track. I had to swerve my body to keep my balance and at times had to duck to avoid the tree branches flying at my face, as the trail became more challenging the further we progressed, taking us along narrow paths, bumpy hills and increasingly tight corners. “Mush!” I shouted jubilantly at my dogs, urging them forward, though this clearly wasn’t necessary – there’s little that would World Traveller

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Lapland

have stopped them, I soon realised. The bright whiteness of the desolate landscape rushing past me was dazzling. It seemed as though I’d stepped into a black and white photograph: heavy blankets of pristine snow and ice stretched out endlessly in every direction, broken up only by the dark tree trunks poking out here and there. Other than occasional reindeer tracks, there was absolutely no sign of life around me: it struck me that, if I were to be separated from Jan (which, given my dogs’ propensity to swerve off in whichever

direction they fancied, was a distinct possibility), I would be entirely at the mercy of the huskies, reliant on them to transport me to safety. With icicles dangling from my eyelashes and hair and no feeling in my toes whatsoever, I finally reached the wilderness hut some four hours after our departure. Despite having no running water or electricity, an enormous fire gave it cosy character. For dinner, mushers and dogs alike all tucked into a deliciously juicy reindeer stew. I put my exhausted dogs to bed in their outdoor kennels and, feeling completely exhausted myself, reflected upon Jan’s bike analogy in front of the crackling fire. I’m not sure what kind of bicycles he’s been riding, but never before have I come across one which seemingly conspires to quarter its passenger by travelling forcefully in four opposing directions at once. That said, it was the charm of these beautiful, drooling beasts that made my trip so exhilarating and memorable. I’d never felt closer to nature than when they had been bounding through the icy forests, bringing me along with them for the ride. This was the kind of transportation I could get used to.

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Credit: Katie Grant / The Independent / The Interview People

Heavy blankets of pristine snow and ice stretched out endlessly in every direction

NORTHERN LIGHTS ··· This multicoloured display of light is the result of collisions between gaseous particles in the earth’s atmosphere with charged particles released from the sun’s atmosphere. The lights can be seen from the northern and southern hemispheres – with those in the north referring to them as ‘Aurora borealis’ (dawn of the north) and residents in the south naming them ‘Aurora australis’ (dawn of the south’) – and generally extend from 80km up to 640km above the earth’s surface.

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Paris & New York

A TALE OF TWO CITIES How opposites attract in PARIS & NEW YORK Words: Eleanor Joslin

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ho’s to say which is better? The Eiffel Tower or The Empire State Building; Proust or Salinger; patisserie or pastrami; coffee-to-stroll or coffee-togo? While Paris and New York City are polar opposites, they have December // 2014

one thing in common: allure. One wants to be slowly strolling down the cobbled streets of Rue Tiquetonne past milliners bowed down upon their swatches, but also jostling shoulder-to-shoulder with rowdy commuters and blaring cab horns down Fifth Avenue. However, there’s no need

to turn into an impatient New Yorker just yet – that will come quite naturally when the Big Apple swallows you up. In the meantime, see these cities at a more leisurely pace with our Tried and Trusted tour, which takes in the must-see hotspots and the not-to-miss festive traditions.

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Paris & New York

PARIS

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SEE THE SIGHTS TRY IT: If you think selfies lack a certain je ne sais quoi, think again. The Mandarin Oriental Paris’ new Selfie in Paris package is a fun way of seeing the sights and taking memorable holiday snaps. While December // 2014

I stayed at this exceptional hotel on Rue Saint-Honoré, I took the tour with my own Mercedes and chauffeur, who drove me to the best selfie spots in the city. Over three hours he helped me make memorable cameos with the icons of Paris and captured all the top spots in an informative whistle-stop tour of the City of Lights. mandarinoriental.com/paris

TRUST IT: No gimmicks were needed when I saw the city by foot. I spent leisurely afternoons strolling around Marais, the Latin Quarter, Montmartre… and soaked up architecture rich with history, from King Philippe-Auguste to the French Revolution to WWII. I started at the main attraction, the Eiffel Tower, which held the crown of tallest building in the world until New York City’s Chrysler Building was completed in 1930. From here I walked down the Seine in search of many must-see spots. A little detour north took me windowshopping down the world-famous Champs-Élysées, past Grand Palais and Place de la Concorde until I reached the beautiful Jardin des Tuileries. These former Royal Gardens are a great spot for lunch in the summertime; in winter head to Louvre Museum’s Le Café Marly for a bite to eat before queuing up to marvel at the gallery’s most famous resident, Mona Lisa. If you’re visiting with your spouse declare your undying love across the Pont des Arts, which is in danger of collapsing under the weight of all the padlocks (or love locks) chained to its rails. Make sure you get the right bridge – a lock on the Pont de l’Archevêché is for your lover. If you have time, finish your day by turning right to Musée D’Orsay or left to the gothic walls of Notre-Dame Cathedral.

Opening page: Festive decorations outside Rockefeller Center. Clockwise from bottom left: The Louvre Museum; The Royal Oriental Suite rooftop terrace at The Mandarin Oriental Paris; The Seine; Eiffel Tower; Angelina; Avenue des ChampsElysées.

W HER E TO DINE

DECEMBER DELIGHTS

TRY IT: Whenever I visit France I

TRY IT: Kids and adults alike will

swallow my squeamish disposition and go on the hunt for frogs legs and snails. However, the first-class internationalcuisine scene distracts me (somewhat easily) and I always find myself in a cosy Italian trattoria, or one of Starck’s contemporary venues. My latest taste-bud crush is for Annapurna on Rue de Berri, an authentic Indian restaurant that’s been winning over notoriously picky Parisians since 1967. As well as traditional curries and jalebi this elegant restaurant puts on tinkling sitar performances in the evening.

have a very joyeaux noël in Paris, with shops full of handcrafted wooden toys, twinkling carousels and ice-skating at the Champs-Elysées or The Trocadéro. Experience a magical holiday at Domaine de Chantilly where there’s a castle-worth of wonderment. Head to the grand stables for La Petite Fiancée des Neiges, a spectacular equestrian show with horses and ponies telling magical winter tales. Day trips are feasible, too, as it’s just a 20-minute train ride north of Paris, although I’d recommend staying a couple of days to explore the beautiful grounds.

TRUST IT: Counting Proust and Coco Chanel as loyal customers, Angelina is the tearoom to come to for an indulgent hot chocolate and cake. Even now, 111 years after confectioner Antoine Rumpelmayer founded the faded belle-époque salon, it remains at the height of fashion and is a go-to lunch spot for gourmands. While I’ve visited Angelina in the UAE a number of times, there was nothing quite like tasting the legendary Le Mont-Blanc pastry in its home country. Its reputation has travelled thousands of miles, so why shouldn’t you? angelina-paris.fr

TRUST IT: A trip to Paris isn’t complete without a visit to Disneyland. Yes, it’s cliché, but it’s a must-see attraction for families with young children, where the parks are bedecked with festive flourishes, Cinderella sparkles and snowflakes floating through the air. As a kid I loved staying at one of the themed lodges but as an adult I chose the Raddison Blu hotel, nestled within Disney’s 27-hole golf course. Inside, a glowing 360-degree fire kept me warm and toasty and got me into the holiday spirit. disneylandparis.co.uk

SOAK UP ART TRY IT: Works by one of the most renowned artists from the mid-twentieth century will be exhibited at Grand Palais until February. Niki de Saint Phalle (1930-2002) was one of the first women to receive international acclaim and recognition during her lifetime for her works that are deeply embedded with socio-political issues. From here, cross the road and take a peek inside the Petit Palais, home to various exhibitions, including Baccarat – The Legend of Crystal, a retrospective of Baccarat’s 250 years in business. grandpalais.fr

TRUST IT: Perhaps a more fitting nickname for the City of Lights would be the City of Arts, such is the lure of this romantic capital with artists of all mediums and skill. With much of the renovation work at Musée d’Orsay now complete, I made a much-anticipated visit to the enlarged museum, where rooms have been reorganised, paintings rehung and walls colourfully painted to portray the masterpieces at their best. See the musee’s latest acquisitions in its 7 Years of Reflection exhibition, which runs until February 22. musee-orsay.fr World Traveller

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Paris & New York

NEW YORK WHERE TO STAY TRY IT: The Four Seasons Hotel New York is unrivalled. Travelling on my own I made much use of the revamped spa and helpful concierge services. Families should try one of the hotel’s Exceptional Experiences, especially the Red Carpet Kids, where the whole family can taste life as a Hollywood star. The Four Seasons will whisk you away from the main hotel to a private mansion on the Upper East Side, where you’ll get papped on the red carpet and field questions from the press. There’s hair and make-up, acting in front of a green screen, then a sumptuous three-course lunch while you watch your very own movie trailer. In a city where every other conversation in Starbucks was about auditions, I thought this would be the perfect way to try it out for fun. fourseasons.com

HAVE A SPA DAY TRY IT: While New Yorkers might be

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TRUST IT: The NoMad Hotel brings Broadway back to its golden era with a gilded lobby, stately library, top-tier restaurant and beaux-arts boutique rooms. Each room has a residential feel so you’ll feel more at home than on holiday. Named for its location, north of Madison Park, celebrated interior designer Jacques Garcia decorated the restored former National Cash Register Company building with old-world elegance and modern luxury. Celebrated for his designs in Paris, including a high-profile recreation of an 18th-century teahouse on the ChampsElysées, Garcia expertly mixes old with new, and French chic with American panache. thenomadhotel.com December // 2014

used to the traffic, shouting and fast pace of the city, it’s easy for holidaymakers to feel a little overwhelmed. While I stayed at the Four Seasons, I popped downstairs to the serene L.RAPHAEL spa and treated myself to one of their new beauty regimes. The Oxy Star Anti-Pigmentation facial with white truffle extract is highly recommended. After a soothing massage around my cheeks and temples jets of icecold air buffeted my tired skin and left me feeling brand new. While this therapy is as cold as the frosty streets outside, it’s a lot more relaxing. fourseasons.com/newyork/spa

TRUST IT: NYC isn’t like LA where no one walks. In fact, this city is so crammed with cabs that it often makes sense to sightsee on foot, unless you like spending the day sitting in traffic. And after several days racing round soaking up all the sights you’ll certainly be in need of a good foot massage. You won’t get a better one than at Shibui Spa in The Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca. A favourite among the wellheeled (or tired-heeled), unwind with the Elemental Well-Being Massage with an added bath soak. Book in advance to ensure you secure a spot at the massage table. thegreenwichhotel.com/spa

DECEMBER DELIGHTS TRY IT: We’ve all had a go on the slopes in Ski Dubai, Mall of the Emirates, but you can try the real thing just three hours north of New York City. Stay the night at Hunter Mountain’s luxurious Kaatskill Mountain Club hotel and get up early to ski, snowboard or snow tube. If you’re new to the slopes, there are 14 beginners slopes and a dedicated Learner’s Center to help you get the hang of it. And if you’re not into your extreme winter sports, take time out fly fishing, or melt away the day at the Mountain Club Spa. huntermtn.com

TRUST IT: A visit to New York in December wouldn’t be complete without gazing up at the world-famous icon of festivities, the towering Norway spruce that adds the pièce de rĂŠsistance to the holiday merriments at the Rockefeller Center. In what has become an institution during the festive holidays, on December 3 the tree will kick-off the season for the 81st time and illuminate the plaza with 45,000 colourful lights and a huge glittering Swarovski star. Head there on December 14 to ice skate around the huge outdoor rink (and capture the magic from Home Alone) and listen to hundreds of tenor and bass tuba players, a 40-year-old tradition that has spread across the globe. rockefellercenter.com

THINGS TO DO TRY IT: You can’t go to the Big Apple without watching a Broadway show. December sees two-time Academy Award nominee Bradley Cooper take on the critically acclaimed revival of The Elephant Man. Cooper has so far received rave reviews in this remake of Bernard Pomerance's 1977 play, with critics claiming his performance as “stunning�. See for yourself at Booth Theatre, until the end of January. broadway.com;

TRUST IT: You could spend weeks sightseeing in this city that never sleeps. But if, like me, you’re in town for just a few days, draw up a must-see list. Mine looked like this: the Warner Centre – America’s most expensive building to be erected, costing US$1.7 billion; Rockefeller Center, built in the 1930s by the country’s famous oil magnate and first billionaire, John D. Rockefeller; Times Square, where a 200-pound ball is dropped to mark midnight on New Year’s Eve; the world’s first steel suspension bridge, Brooklyn Bridge, dubbed the eighth wonder of the world upon completion in 1883; and – of course – the iconic Statue of Liberty, a gift from France in honour of their alliance during the American Revolution. While I enjoyed World Traveller

GETTING THERE ¡¡¡ ÂœĂ€ >˜ n°xÂ‡Â…ÂœĂ•Ă€ yˆ}Â…ĂŒ vĂ€ÂœÂ“ *>Ă€ÂˆĂƒ Â…>Ă€Â?iĂƒ i >Ă•Â?Â?i ĂŒÂœ Â˜ĂŒiĂ€Â˜>ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜>Â? Ć‚ÂˆĂ€ÂŤÂœĂ€ĂŒ ˆ˜ iĂœ 9ÂœĂ€ÂŽ ĂŒÂœÂœÂŽ ĂŒÂ…i ˜iĂœiĂƒĂŒ >˜` Vœ“wiĂƒĂŒ yˆ}Â…ĂŒ ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… Ć‚ÂˆĂ€ Ă€>˜Vi° /Â…i V>Ă€Ă€ÂˆiĂ€½Ăƒ ˜iĂœ > *Ă€i“ˆiĂ€ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒÂ‡VÂ?>ĂƒĂƒ >˜` Ă•ĂƒÂˆÂ˜iĂƒĂƒ VÂ?>ĂƒĂƒ V>LÂˆÂ˜Ăƒ ÂœvviĂ€ ĂƒÂŤ>VÂˆÂœĂ•Ăƒ Ăƒi>ĂŒĂƒ ĂŒÂ…>ĂŒ vĂ•Â?Â?Ăž iĂ?ĂŒi˜` y>ĂŒ ÂˆÂ˜ĂŒÂœ > Li`° Ć‚`` ĂŒÂœ ĂŒÂ…ÂˆĂƒ > wĂ›i‡VÂœĂ•Ă€Ăƒi ˆVÂ…iÂ?ˆ˜‡ ĂƒĂŒ>ÀÀi` “i>Â?] > ÂŤĂ€ÂˆĂ›>ĂŒi Ăœ>Ă€`Ă€ÂœLi V>ÂŤĂƒĂ•Â?i >˜` Â˜ÂœÂˆĂƒi‡Ài`Ă•Vˆ˜} Â…i>`ÂŤÂ…ÂœÂ˜iĂƒ vÂœĂ€ ĂŒÂ…i iĂ?VÂ?Ă•ĂƒÂˆĂ›i ˆ˜‡yˆ}Â…ĂŒ iÂ˜ĂŒiĂ€ĂŒ>ˆ˜“iÂ˜ĂŒ] >˜` ĂžÂœĂ•½Ă›i }ÂœĂŒ ĂžÂœĂ•Ă€ĂƒiÂ?v > ĂƒĂŒĂ€iĂƒĂƒÂ‡ vĂ€ii yˆ}Â…ĂŒ° /Â…i VÂœÂ˜ÂœÂ“Ăž >˜` *Ă€iÂ“ÂˆĂ•Â“ VÂœÂ˜ÂœÂ“Ăž V>LÂˆÂ˜Ăƒ œ˜ ĂŒÂ…i Â?œ˜}‡…>Ă•Â? Âœiˆ˜} ÇÇLJÎää Â?iĂŒĂƒ] “i>Â˜ĂœÂ…ÂˆÂ?i] Â…>Ă›i Lii˜ Ă•ÂŤ}Ă€>`i` ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… >``i` Â?i} Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“ >˜` Â?>Ă€}iĂ€ Ăƒi>ĂŒĂƒ q >˜` >Â?Â? ÂŤ>ĂƒĂƒi˜}iĂ€Ăƒ }iĂŒ > }Â?>ĂƒĂƒ Âœv wââ vÂœĂ€ ĂŒ>ÂŽi Âœvv° ->Â˜ĂŒjt airfrance.com

Clockwise from top left: Bedroom suite at NoMad Hotel; The Empire State Building; Ice skating at Rockefeller Center; Central Park; L.R APHAEL spa, The Four Seasons Hotel New York; Shibui Spa, The Greenwich Hotel.

several grassy knolls across the capital of Paris, there is only one main area of respite from the hustle and bustle in New York: Central Park. In this weather you’ll need to don your winter woolies, but it’s well worth bracing the elements as auburn leaves fall around you and crunch underfoot. Sprawled across 843 beautiful acres of lakes, streams and verdant picnic spots in the midst of Manhattan, I took a charming horse-drawn carriage around the park’s wide pathways. Far from feeling like a tourist, I had an idyllic ride wrapped up in blankets, viewing this urban oasis through puffs of frosty breath. centralparknyc.org December // 2014

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Iconic Montenegro

Ostrog Monastery dates back to the 17th century and is one of the most impressive tourist sites in Montenegro. Carved into an almost vertical cliff face, it is the ultimate spiritual connection of nature and man’s hand. The monastery is situated on the cusp of the rich Bjelopavlic plain, and although it looks difficult to access, it’s a thrilling adventure that no visitor to Montenegro could ever afford to miss.

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Iconic

MONTENEGRO

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World Traveller

December // 2014

Iconic Montenegro

High on the windswept peak of Jezerski, the second highest peak in Lovcen National Park, is this, the Njegos Mausoleum, final resting place of the state’s former leader. From outside, you can see into four different countries at once. Inside, the cool marble of the mausoleum winds down into the peak of the mountain. The mausoleum is well worth the climb of almost 500 steps to reach.

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Tara River Canyon, in Durmitor National Park, is one of the largest in the world. It is spanned by the Tara River bridge, a spectacular scene of natural beauty enhanced by sympathetic architecture. Of Montenegro’s four national parks, Durmitor in the north of the country is the most popular due to its untouched beauty, where hiking, biking, skiing and swimming are all encouraged.

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Sveti Stefan is the postcard view of Montenegro you will want to add to your camera roll. Since 2008, it has been owned by a private hotel owner, so in order to stay there you must be willing to spend top dollar. However, from the nearby town of Budva you can view the island and the beautiful blue sea that surrounds it, and the beach that is visible below facing the island is free to use.

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World Traveller

December // 2014

Germany

BACK

TO BERLIN Twenty-five years after reporting on the fall of the Berlin Wall, Adrian Bridge returns to reconnect with a city that, for all its faults, is possibly the coolest place on the planet

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am like a child in a sweet shop when I return to Berlin. So many places to revisit; so many memories to rekindle; so many changes to take stock of; so many lives (and loves) of others to reengage with. But where to start? There are many journeys through Berlin. There is the historical one leading from the 12thcentury town of Cölln built on a swamp which became the capital of Prussia and then of the Germany of the Kaisers, the Weimar Republic and, finally, fatally, the Third Reich – a journey leading to the brutal division that turned Berlin into the city straddling East and West, the ultimate hot spot of a nerve-jangling Cold War. There is the geographical journey: from the sparky, happening, hardedged districts of the east to the silkier, smoother, more leisure-class watering holes of the west. There is the Berlin of great culture, of grand opera houses and masterful orchestral manoeuvres; the Berlin of artistic genius and the treasures of antiquity captured in the bust of a still fresh-faced Queen Nefertiti. There is the Berlin of a thousand nightclubs and myriad voyages of selfdiscovery into the dawn; the Berlin of cutting-edge fashion; of grand monuments and sweeping boulevards and fur-coated (frequently Russian) ladies. There’s the Berlin of officialdom and the comfortingly orderly governance of Angela Merkel (counterpoised exquisitely by the Berlin of cheek-pierced revolutionary anarchy). There is the Berlin of expansive parks and boat-filled lakes and beer gardens, the Berlin of allotments and “Kaffee und Kuchen” and red sunsets over the River Spree. There is the Berlin that has drawn many of the most creative young spirits on the continent who come to paint, to sculpt, to design, to innovate, rather as David Bowie did before them; there is the Berlin of the permanent buzz; there is, too, the Berlin of the never-ending Baustelle (building site), the Berlin of the inexplicable dither over the opening of a new airport; there is the Berlin of the fixed scowl (oh yes, they’re a surly lot, the Berliners, but in a bizarre way that is part of the charm). There is also, of course, the Berlin of November 9 1989, that glorious day 25 years ago when the world held its breath – and the Berlin Wall was breached. That’s the one I remember best of all. Berlin covers a vast area, but with less than half the population of London feels much more spacious. It has a great U-Bahn and S-Bahn network (when the drivers are not on strike, as they were on the day I landed). You can navigate its rivers and canals by boat. Many choose to explore the city by bike (cycle lanes are wide). You can soar above it in a balloon. You can come back down to earth by World Traveller

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taking a tour in a Trabi – East Germany’s singular contribution to the history of the automobile. Or you can walk. I choose to travel by foot, starting from the centre of the old East Berlin, the Alexanderplatz, and ending at the centre of the old West Berlin, the bright lights of the Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) boulevard. As the crow flies, it’s not a long way (about nine kilometres) but it does take you through the very core of the city. I wanted to walk not only because often you get to see more that way, but because I wanted to follow in the footsteps of those incredibly brave souls who 25 years ago took to the streets to declare “Wir sind das Volk” (We are the People) – and who brought down that wall. Before setting off there is some catching up to do with family. My wife’s father was born in the eastern part of Berlin but, sensing something was up, he slipped across to the western part of the city December // 2014

just months before the construction in August 1961 of the “anti-fascist protection barrier”. His brother, Günther, stayed behind and on our first day we reminisce with him and his wife Marianne about the drama of those heady days in November 1989. Their daughter, Manuela, then in her early 20s, was one of the many East Germans who, never suspecting the wall was about to open, had earlier that summer escaped to the West via Hungary. As she recalls her fear and excitement and the sheer relief at getting out, she squeezes the hand of Dirk, the man with whom she shares a home in the south-western district of Marienfelde. He is originally from West Berlin; she is from the East, but the distinction now seems meaningless. There is really only one word that sums up the Alexanderplatz and that is “ugly”. It was ugly when I first visited the city in the Eighties and it is even uglier now. Originally the site of a cattle

market, much of this once-racy part of town (immortalised in Alfred Döblin’s 1929 novel Berlin Alexanderplatz) was destroyed in the war, and what you see today is the legacy of the architects who wanted to make it a showcase for the benefits of socialism in the German Democratic Republic. The square is surrounded by drab blocks of concrete which may once have expressed some sort of modernity but which now have an unpleasant, jarring effect, not helped by the addition of neon signs pointing to the pleasures of Dunkin’ Donuts, the Primark clothes store and Shoe City. There is a forlorn air about the “Fountain of Friendship between Peoples”, once a popular place to sit and chat (sotto voce); today a small crowd is watching a mime artist at play beneath the huge World Clock at which, rather cruelly, East Germans could see what time it was in countries they would never be able to visit. The dominant feature of the Alex is the Fernsehturm, a vast television tower that has a decidedly Big Brother feel. From its 203-metre-high viewing platform, most parts of the city, east and west, can certainly be observed – and it is now a popular spot for tourists (tip: book online or in person). The Fernsehturm in turn can be seen from many parts of the city – but whereas it was once looked upon as the symbol of a deeply despised state, I get the impression that it has been taken into the hearts of Berliners across the former divide. It is a familiar, defining sight; it is almost lovable. And on into the square itself and on the left, the Rotes Rathaus (town hall), seat of Mayor Klaus Wowereit, who, talking about the post-wall Berlin, coined the legendary phrase “We are poor, but sexy”; on the right, the Marx-Engels-Forum, a small park containing the statues of the founding fathers of communism (someone has rather touchingly placed a red rose in Karl’s lap). They are no doubt looking on in bewilderment (and despair) at the latest building project in the square, the reconstruction of the old palace of the kaisers. As rain clouds gather we take refuge in the DDR Museum, which aims to give a sense of life as it was lived in East Germany. There are films of cheering crowds saluting the May Day parades, a re-creation of a typical East German living room and photos of collective pottytraining practices in the kindergarten. A whole section (rather more pleasing on the eye) is devoted to the East German love of the Freikörperkultur (FKK, or nude sunbathing). And there is a life-size model of a Trabant in which visitors can sit at the driving wheel – and go on a simulated drive through East Berlin. I have a powerful flashback to November 1989 and the BMW showroom on the Ku’damm in which incredulous East Germans

Opening page: Television tower at Alexanderplatz; Clockwise from left: Sweet treats; Brandenburg Gate; Museum Island; Hotel de Rome; cuisine at 25 Hours Hotel.

were allowed to sit in shiny, high-octane sports cars – and to feel that at last they were living the Teutonic dream. It made great colour copy for a fledgling foreign reporter. There are other, big-hitting sights in this part of the city: the Berliner Dom (cathedral), Kaiser Wilhelm II’s characteristically bombastic (but genuinely fascinating) paean to Protestantism; the German Historical Museum – much changed from GDR times and a place that pulls no punches in the displays covering the darker sides of the country’s past. There are the world-class museums and galleries of Museum Island (the Pergamon Museum for the Ishtar Gate from Babylon and the Pergamon Altar from Turkey; the Neues Museum for Queen Nefertiti). We take in as much as we can but lunch and an old friend beckon as we race down Unter den Linden, always Berlin’s showcase street, past the city’s main opera house, the Humboldt University, the statue of Fritz the Great (he’s still there) and the beautiful Rocco Forte Hotel de Rome in the Bebelplatz (scene once of the infamous burning of books). “So is Berlin now one?” I ask Andrea

We detour towards the S-Bahn station that was the former crossing point

at the Westin Grand Hotel over a welcoming, warming, seasonal bowl of Pfifferlinge (mushroom) soup. “Not quite – people of our generation in the west still talk about ‘over there’ and you can always tell whether someone is from the east from their expressions.” On Andrea’s recommendation we detour down the Friedrichstrasse towards the S-Bahn station that was the former crossing point from east to west – the “Palace of Tears” where loved ones had to part. Today, close by is the rather swanky Galeries Lafayette. Berlin is getting cold and I need a new scarf; the walk can wait. That evening, in the laid-back setting of Das Lokal in Berlin Mitte we eat contemporary German cuisine with Christian and Carl, two men with a passion for cycling and who have toured together. Christian is the main press officer for Berlin Tourism and although not from the city (he grew up in West Germany), he has developed a great love for it. Carl, a journalist, was working for the East German news agency ADN on the night the wall opened and tells a hilarious story of how, as the scale of what was happening became clear, he had to put in repeated phone calls to his boss World Traveller

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Berlin

This page: Trams along Friedrichstrasse. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Potsdamer Platz; Galeries Lafayette; Restaurant at 25 Hours Hotel.

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to ask for permission to report on it (in the end he was allowed six very guarded sentences). Aided by a deliciously mellow South Tyrolean red, the stories flow and both men wax lyrical about some of their favourite Berlin places: Christian raves about the creative energies that have been unleashed at the former Tempelhof Airport (three days later I join kitesurfers and skaters as I cycle down its runway) and the area around the former Anhalter Bahnhof that is “Berlin’s equivalent to the High Line in New York”. Carl enthuses about the pleasures awaiting visitors to the former industrial zones of Oberschöneweide in the east. Just when I think the evening is winding down, Christian orders another bottle of red… In November 1989, it was the images of people dancing on the wall at the December // 2014

Brandenburg Gate that, more than anything else, made it clear that the world we had all grown up with had changed irrevocably. We get to the Gate as night is falling (the day has been a rain-swept one, spent mostly in museums and cafés). There are protesters calling on the Americans (their embassy is right next to the Gate) to “stop the torture” in Iraq. Remembering the watchtowers and the barbed wire and the piercing bright lights of the “death strip”, I still do a double-take when I see people waving placards and shouting at this spot. Tourists milling around the surrounding bank and embassy-filled Pariser Platz go into selfie overdrive. It is now clear, but chilly as we slip into the splendidly restored Hotel Adlon and, to celebrate reaching the halfway point of our walk, order champagne cocktails. Marlene Dietrich would have approved.

Another day, another late Berlin breakfast, this one in the Strandbad Mitte, close to where we dined with Christian and Carl. Marie, the daughter of very dear East German friends, wasn’t even born when the wall came down, arriving some six months later. She is studying medicine at the city’s leading Charité Hospital and is planning to work as a gynaecologist. Surely people of her age don’t talk about east and west anymore? “Well, we do still talk about ‘over there’ – but it’s meant ironically,” she says with a winning smile. “Of course I have friends from both sides – I just prefer it in the east!” We linger over breakfast (Berliners seem less anxious about time) and talk about Marie’s recent travels – to Vietnam, China, Bali. We drink more coffee and discover that we share a love of travelling by night train. It still feels strange to walk through

WHERE TO STAY ··· To get a feel for Berlin’s history, book a room at the Westin Grand Hotel, located in Mitte. This central hotel has captivated travellers with its charm and stunning décor since 1987. The nearby Waldorf Astoria Hotel is a timeless hotel sited near luxury shopping strip Ku’ damm. For information visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

the Brandenburg Gate but, of course, it is quite straightforward now. We are in the west within seconds and before us lies the Tiergarten, the beautiful green lungs of central Berlin. There are some fairly key sights on this side too: immediately to the left, the maze of concrete slabs in different shapes and sizes that is the much-delayed Holocaust Memorial (I like it, but critics object to the fact that some people use it as a recreation area); to the right the Reichstag, that once forbidding symbol of the German state that, with a flash of Norman Foster brilliance, was given a glass dome and a new identity. Heading up the Strasse des 17 Juni (the date of the failed 1953 East German uprising), we pass a memorial to the Soviet liberators of Berlin in 1945 (Russian schoolchildren climb gleefully all over the model tank), and then climb up the Siegessäule, the column that commemorates Prussian victories in the 19th-century wars against

Text by: Adrian Bridge / The Daily Telegraph / The Interview People Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Denmark, Austria and France. Like the Brandenburg Gate, the lady in gold at the top shines brightly, still winking at Wim Wenders who chose this spot as the place for angels to gather in his 1987 classic Wings of Desire. We walk on through the Tiergarten. The rain has given it a welcome freshness; we breathe in deeply, enjoying the peace. In the bushes we spot rabbits and red squirrels; further afield, a young mother with her toddler. I squeeze my wife’s hand; many moons ago when we lived here we used to walk in the Tiergarten with our own two Berliner babies. On that famous night in November 1989 – and indeed during the days thereafter – most of East Berlin came to marvel at the Ku’damm, a 3.5km-long boulevard that, with its upmarket shops and landmark hotels and coffee houses, is considered Berlin’s answer to the ChampsElysées. In the years following the fall of the World Traveller

wall the area went into something of a decline as interest, money and all the trendy young things flocked to the eastern districts of Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg. Of late there has been something of a revival. New developments close to the once decidedly seedy area around the Bahnhof Zoo include the super-luxurious Waldorf Astoria Hotel, the revamped Zoo Palast cinema, the imaginatively designed Bikini-Haus and, in the 25 Hours Hotel, a bar and restaurant affording great views of, on the one side, the newly refurbished Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis-Kirche (the bombed-out church that serves as a constant reminder of the dark years) and, on the other, the Tiergarten (German for “Animal Garden). The Ku’damm is what it always was: a busy, attractive boulevard teeming with shoppers and a showcase for all that glitters (that BMW showroom is still there). We stroll along it and remember when it was packed 20 people deep with Berliners from both sides, pinching themselves as they stepped into the history books. In the end, with all the diversions along the way, our walk from the heart of the East to the heart of the West took five days. It could have been shorter (the journey by S-Bahn takes 14 minutes); it could have been longer (the same journey took the East Germans 28 years). But it afforded a timely opportunity to reconnect with this city. I had forgotten just how – for all its faults and the abruptness of its people – exhilarating Berlin is, and vow inwardly to return soon. At a news stand I spot the cover of the latest issue of Stern magazine proclaiming that, 25 years after the fall of the Wall, Berlin is “the coolest capital city in the world”. That’s quite a claim. But, all things considered, I would be hard pressed to think of any other city more deserving of the title. December // 2014

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Weekends

Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes

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Six of the best al fresco terraces

Set sail with the Volvo Ocean Race

Tee off at these top golf courses

World Traveller

December // 2014

WEEKENDS

48 HOURS IN...

It’s the Lebanese town far above sea level, where the stylish go to ski

FARAYA Where to stay

InterContinental Mzaar Mountain Resort & Spa (ihg.com) The perfect place to stay during summer or winter, the InterContinental Mzaar is widely accepted to be the busiest spot in Faraya. With four restaurants and direct access to the slopes, you’ll w ` Þ ÕÀÃi v ëi ` } ÃÌ of your time here – and be perfectly happy about it.

Faraya Village Club (farayavillageclub.com) If you’re spending more time in Faraya, this cosy vacation residence could be for you. Just a short drive from the Mzaar ski slopes, the charming chalets have satellite TV and internet access, and the resort itself features a pool and spa, plus ATV, bike and snowmobile rentals to get out and about.

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

Morning The word Faraya means “the land of fruits and vegetables”, and it is known as this because of its incredibly fertile soil. Higher up, however, the temperature drops and the snow covers the ground. So before you head to the slopes, warm yourself up with an exciting bike ride over the mountainous trails and ridges.

Morning If you’re in Faraya, you are here to ski. Mzaar Ski Resort has 42 slopes and over 80km of groomed tracks, ranging ` vwVÕ ÌÞ vÀ Li} iÀ Ì championship. The resort is named after the tallest peak, Mzaar, while the second tallest is called Nabil. The ski season runs for around four months from November to February.

Afternoon Khaymet El Hor restaurant at the InterContinental Mzaar provides a fascinating taste of Lebanese mountain cuisine. Fuelled up, head to Faqra to explore the maze of limestone formations known as “the houses of ghosts”. These eerie ruins are all that remain of the Romans, who were here in 43AD.

Afternoon Now that you know Mzaar is the highest peak around, it’s time to conquer it. Either grab a quad bike or a jeep and head upwards, and before the >vÌiÀ à w à i` Þ Õ½ Li at the top of the mountain, gazing down at the Bekaa Valley, and even, if the day is clear, the capital of Lebanon, Beirut.

Evening Decked out like a log cabin, Le Refuge at the InterContinental Mzaar serves warming Alpine cuisine like raclette, beef fondue > ` Ì>ÀÌ yiÌÌið v Þ Õ v> VÞ something more international, head upstairs to Kobe, which is a mix between New York and Tokyo. Not ready to head to bed just yet? Le Bar in the lobby is a lively après-ski spot and perfect for a digestif.

Evening Drive down the mountains to visit Auberge le Valais, a curious Swiss restaurant that uses its location to create beautiful cheeses and meats, and other foods and customs like fondue, sometimes directly imported from Switzerland. After your meal, a romantic stroll around Chabrouh Lake is the perfect way to end a weekend in the hills.

Ask a concierge

Rita Beaino, from InterContinental Mzaar, picks the most scenic restaurants Le Montagnou is famous for its sunset bar and, in winter, is the place to eat fondue and raclette (you’ll need to book two weeks in advance). In summer, Khaymet El Hor is the top spot for mountain views and authentic Lebanese in a Bedouin-style tent. Try the tabouleh, which

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is prepared at the table. Rikky’z, meanwhile, is a log house with breathtaking views of the valley. The all-youcan-eat mussels is a winter favourite, while the summer Sunday lunch is a must-do.

December // 2014

6 Of The Best

SIX of the BEST

AL FRESCO TERRACES Enjoy the great outdoors now that the cooler weather is here

1. Above, Sofitel Downtown Dubai

The latest jewel in Downtown’s crown is this sleek rooftop lounge. Ì½Ã Ì i wÀÃÌ wÛi ÃÌ>À Ìi L>À Ü Ì > Õ LÃÌÀÕVÌi` Û iÜ v > nÎä metres of the iconic Burj Khalifa, > ` Ì i Ìi ½Ã Ài V V V Û Li i> Ã Ì >Ì ƂL Ûi âià ÃÌÞ i° / i ÌiÀÀ>Vi ÌÃi v V ÛiÀà > Û>ÃÌ ££]nää õÕ>Ài viiÌ > ` >à > ÀiÌÀ>VÌ>L i roof. Offering gastronomic ëiV > Ì iÃ] «À Û>Ìi V>L> >à > ` Ì> i Ìi` Ý } ÃÌà Li ` Ì i L>À] ƂL Ûi à ÃiÌ Ì Li ÕL> ½Ã } Ì >Õ Ì Ü i Ì V iÃ Ì «ÀiÃà } ÕÌ v Ì Ü }ÕiÃÌð

ÕÀ } Ì i `>Þ] Ì i V Ã> V « Ã Ì i `i> ë Ì Ì Ã > Õ« à i À>Þð à wÌi °V

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2. Amethyste Lounge, Beirut i ÀÕÌ Ã Ü >Ã Ì i i v ÃÕ ÌÀÞ] Ã Þ V > ` Ì Ã } > À ÕÃ Õ }i Ì V à > Ì i À } Ì L Ýið ̽à >Ì Ì i ÛiÀÞ i« Vi ÌÀi v i ÀÕ̽à ÕÝÕÀ Õà > ` > ` L>V viÃÌÞ i] > ` à à V i` ÕÌ Þ Õ } Ì >à Üi Li >Ì Ì i - ÕÌ * i° >V } Ì >à à iÌ } ` vviÀi Ì Ì ÀiV i ` Ì q Li Ì > ë } Ãi`ÕVÌ Ûi Ã Õ `Ã] À > } À}i Õà Ì> > Û i vÀ Ì i £ xäà «À iVÌi` Ì Ì i « à `i ÃVÀii ] Ì Ã Ã i v i ÀÕ̽à ``i }i ð Ƃ Ì Õ} Ài> Þ Ì½Ã Ì Ì >Ì ``i q ̽à «>ÀÌ v Ì i * i V > Ìi ] i v Ì i V Ì޽à w iÃÌ° > iÌ ÞÃÌi Õ }i°V

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3. Sky View, Doha v Þ Õ½Ûi } Ì Ì i V>Ã Ì i Þ the upscale prices at this hip Ûi Õi] Þ Õ½ v> Ûi Ü Ì Ìà ÃÕ«iÀ V V Û Li] Ü `iÀvÕ V V Ì> i Õ > ` ÃÌÕ } Û iÜà v Ì i V ÌÞ > ` Ì i ƂÀ>L > Õ v° V>Ìi` >Ì Ì i Ì « v Ì i ÕÝÕÀ Õà > }> i Ìi ] Ì i L>À iÝ«iVÌà > Õ Ã«i ` from its customers unless Þ Õ >Ài «>ÌÀ à v > }> i° ÜiÛiÀ] Þ Õ½ i>Ã Þ >ÌV Ì i iÝ«iVÌi` ëi ` >Ã Ì i ë à `ii« ÕÃi ÌÕ iÃ Ü i ÃÕ «ÌÕ Õà ÃÕà ` à ià >Ài Ü Ã i` LiÌÜii Ì>L ið À > } Ì Ì Ài i LiÀ] Ì i - Þ 6 iÜ is the place to go. >V }> i Ìi ° V

December // 2014

Six Of The Best

4. Relax@12, Aloft Abu Dhabi À V ÌÞ V V] ,i >ÝJ£Ó >Ã Ì i V «iÌ Ì Li>Ì° -i Ã>Ì > ÃÕà > ` Ì iÀ >ÃÌiÀ L Ìià >Ài >Û> >L i] LÕÌ Ài> Þ Ì Ã Ã > « >Vi Ì iiÌ vÀ i `à > ` Õ Ü ` ÛiÀ > viÜ } >ÃÃià v grape or a couple of cocktails. ƂÃ Ì i ÃÕ } ià ` Ü > ` Ì i V Ì޽à ÌÜ } } Ìà V i i LÞ i] Ì Ã ÕÌ` À ë>Vi V iÃ Ì ÌÃ Ü ° / i Ü }iÌ Ì i VÀ Ü` > >Ìi`] > ` >vÌiÀ Ì >Ì Ì iÀi½Ã Þ i « >Vi Ì } q à `i] Ì ÕL - ] Ì> } > LÀi> vÀ `> V } Þ Ì ÃÌi« L>V ÕÌ Ì Ì i ÌiÀÀ>Vi > ` V>ÌV > LÀi>Ì v fresh air. Ài >Ý>Ì£Ó°V

5. Vista Bar, Viceroy Maldives 7 i Þ Õ½Ài «>À>` Ãi] ̽à >ÌÕÀ> Ì Ü> Ì Ì w ` Ì i LiÃÌ Û iÜà « Ãà L i° 6 ViÀ Þ > ` Ûiý 6 ÃÌ> L i `à 7iÃÌiÀ > ` Ƃà > VÕ ÌÕÀià vÀ À } Ì } Ì] Ì> } Ì i LiÃÌ «>ÀÌà v i>V `>Þ q i> Ì ið À Ì i vÀiÃ Õ Vi L>À Ì i i>À Þ À } Ì Üii Þ Ì i i } Ìà vi>ÌÕÀ } ` > ] / > > ` Ãi>v ` i Õà Õà } Ì i vÀià iÃÌ }Ài` i ÌÃ] vÌi « ÕV i` vÀ Ì i ÛiÀÞ Ãi> Li Ü Þ Õ] 6 ÃÌ> > Ü>Þà >à à iÌ } } } ° - Ì½Ã Ì ÕÃÌ Ì i Û iÜÃ Ì >Ì >Ài `Þ V iÀi q Ì i v ` Ü Ì> i Þ Õ Ì i>Ûi >à well. Û ViÀ Þ Ìi Ã> `Àià ÀÌð V

4 December // 2014

6. B.A.B Lounge, Shangri-La’s Bar Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Oman

6 5 World Traveller

7 iÌ iÀ ̽à > «Ài ` iÀ >«iÀ Ì v À > « >Vi Ì `> Vi Ì i } Ì >Ü>Þ] Ì Ã V Ìi « À>ÀÞ ÕÝÕÀÞ Ûi Õi à > Ü iÀ° Ì Þ «i i` -i«Ìi LiÀ] > ` takes its name from the Bait Ƃ > À Ãi>v ` ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì] whose roof it sits. With stunning «> À> V Û iÜà ÛiÀ Ì i Vi> > ` > `À> >Ì V Õ Ì> Õà L>V `À «] >ÌÌiÀ Ü V > } i Þ Õ Ì> i Þ ÕÀ Ãi wià vÀ Þ Õ½ >Ûi > i À>L i L>V }À Õ `° / i Àià `i Ì Ý } ÃÌà >Ûi iÛi V i Õ« with a signature B.A.B cocktail Ü V à ÕÌ v Ì Ã Ü À `° à > }À >°V É ÕÃV>Ì

Ç£

December // 2014

MAKING WAVES

The Volvo Ocean Race stops over in Abu Dhabi this month. Here’s why it should be in your calendar Abu Dhabi has yet another reason to celebrate. From Friday December 12, the new Destination Village will open its doors to welcome guests – and of course, the participants in the Volvo Ocean Race 2014, who will be arriving at the capital’s Corniche breakwater in style this month. Over 200,000 visitors are expected to cheer on the sailors and explore the village before it closes on January 3, 2015. There are tons of events to entertain visitors to the Destination Village this year. On December 12 and 13, the BBC’s award-winning series “Blue Planetâ€? will be brought to life in concert. Oscar-nominated composer and conductor George Fenton will lead the 75-piece National Symphony Orchestra in two performances of a specially composed score, alongside jaw-dropping projections from the television series. /Â…i ÂˆÂ˜ĂŒiĂ€Â˜>ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜>Â? y>Ă›ÂœĂ•Ă€Ăƒ Âœv ĂŒÂ…i "Vi>˜ Race are represented on December 19, when the Spanish Embassy takes over Destination Village to celebrate Spain’s deep connection with the Volvo Ocean Race (which starts in Alicante, Spain.) Expect mouth-watering Spanish cuisine, and a showcase of Spanish sport and culture. Running alongside this is the Olympic Rowing Festival, a two-day contest hosted by the UAE Sailing & Rowing Federation. Since its inaugural meeting in 1973, the Volvo Ocean Race has been the leading round-the-world sailing race for teams. At nine months, it’s the longest sporting event in the world and the most coveted prize in sailing. The Abu Dhabi stopover is one of 11 ports that the teams will visit before they wÂ˜ÂˆĂƒÂ… ˆ˜ ÂœĂŒÂ…i˜LĂ•Ă€}] -Ăœi`i˜] ˆ˜ Ă•Â˜i Ă“ä£x° volvooceanraceabudhabi.com

WHERE TO STAY

These four hotels are perfect Abu Dhabi bases

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Jumeirah at Etihad Towers sets a new standard for luxury, and is just moments from the Corniche breakwater.

December // 2014

With fantastic dining options, St. Regis Abu Dhabi is the premiere destination for gastronomes.

Emirates Palace is the last word in opulence. The Â…Ă•}i Â…ÂœĂŒiÂ? ÂˆĂƒ wĂŒ vÂœĂ€ Ă€ÂœĂž>Â?ĂŒĂž and is the closest of all to Destination Village.

Families and larger groups will love the 5QĆ‚VGN #DW Dhabi Corniche, whose facilities are absolutely second-to-none.

WEEKENDS

THE

GREAT ESCAPE

TRY BEFORE

YOU FLY Japanese cuisine is some of the most complex in the world. Chef Chitoshi Takahashi of TOMO restaurant at Raffles Dubai recommends three dishes to try in Japan.

GINDAR A SUGIITAYAKI This authentic Japanese dish is made with cod, slightly grilled and marinated with sweet miso and wrapped with thin cedar. You will be impressed with the presentation and the taste at Kikunoi in Kyoto. kikunoi.jp

UNIQUE SUSHI You can’t leave Japan without having tried a selection of sushi. Look out for vinegar-fl avoured cold rice served with a garnish of vegetables, egg, or raw seafood. Try Sushizen in Tokyo’s Ginza district. sushinzen.co.jp

JUMEIRAH BEACH HOTEL, DUBAI Ah, the iconic Jumeirah Beach Hotel. I’ve always wanted to stay there… Well then, your luck’s in, possibly. As should you win our competition you’ll get to enjoy a whole weekend at what remains one of Dubai’s finest resort hotels. Isn’t it next door to Wild Wadi? It is. And what’s more, when you stay at the wave-shaped hotel you get direct, complimentary and – best of all – unlimited access to Wild Wadi. That means you can slide down the 32-metre high, fantastically fast and supremely scary Jumeirah Sceirah as many times as your heart desires. Awesome. That’s likely to work up an appetite. Where can I satisfy it? The choice is exhaustive. If you’re looking for somewhere to tug at your heartstrings then book a table at Villa Beach. Here you can dine mere metres from the sea, with the Burj al Arab standing proud in the foreground. Then there’s La Parrilla, famed for its superb South American steaks, and the myriad cuisines you can choose from at Latitude. Or La Veranda for freshly-made, wood-fired pizzas, D&A for the best of British, Beachcombers for pan-Asian fare, we could go on….

AGE DENGAKU The deep fried bean curd grilled with a miso paste makes for a great traditional Japanese side dish. You can try it at Shiba Tofuya Ukai in Tokyo. ukai.co.jp

World Traveller

Excellent. Where would you recommend I head post dinner? We’d recommend drinking in some of the incredible vistas on offer here. Either head high up to the hotel’s Uptown Bar for stunning sea and city views, or venture out to the uniquely brilliant 360°, which, as the name suggests, affords an unbeatable vantage point to see all that makes Dubai such a brilliant city.

Win!

We’ve teamed up with Jumeirah Beach Hotel to offer one lucky reader, and their guest, the opportunity to win a two-night stay at the hotel. The prize includes breakfast on both mornings and one dinner at Latitude. To stand a chance of winning, we want to know the answer to this simple question: What shape is Jumeirah Beach Hotel? A) Wave B) Round C) Square

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Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com before December 31. Terms and conditions apply to the prize.

December // 2014

Advertorial

FESTIVE YAS ISLAND

Yas Island is the perfect place for a winter holiday. Here are 11 magical moments to experience while you're there

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1) YAS MALL’S WINTER WONDERLAND The newly-opened Yas Mall is Abu Dhabi’s ultimate retail destination, and it’s got plenty of great festive activities planned – not least its huge festive tree, found in the airy Town Square. December // 2014

2) FESTIVE FARE

The stunning Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi has a great line-up of festive offers. If you want a slapup meal without the hassle of cooking it, let the hotel's chefs make your meals on December 24 and 25. Try an ESPA package to unwind afterwards.

3) LET IT SNOW

If you're a fan of the cold stuff, head to Yas Marina's wonderful Snow Zone. Build a snowman, >Ûi > Ã ÜL> w} Ì À ÕÃÌ i Þ Li } ÜÀ>««i` Õ« V ÃÞ coats and mittens while walking around in the snow. Don't forget your camera.

4) SWEET TREATS

On December 6, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi Yas Island is inviting kids to the Diyafa Ballroom to decorate their very own tasty gingerbread houses. The hotel’s wÀ ÌÀii Ü Li Ì Ì i Ã> i super festive day, making it a must-visit for families.

5) YAS WATERWORLD ABU DHABI BECOMES YAS WINTERWORLD From December 1 to January 10 the park is transformed. Every weekend gingerbread house building competitions, snowmen photo booths and a new underwater show will amaze festive families.

6) SANTA CLAUS IS COMIN' TO TOWN

Rotana Yas Island is the place to be on December 10, as there will be a giant gingerbread house and festive carols aplenty, plus St. Nick himself arriving, bearing gifts for boys and girls.

7) START YOUR ENGINES

Ferrari World Abu Dhabi turns winter red from December 21 to January 5, with a stunning new live show, Christmas trees galore and gift passes which > i «iÀviVÌ ÃÌ V } w iÀð

8) FESTIVE FINE DINING

Cipriani is putting on a special festive menu throughout December. Underneath the ÌÜ } } ÌÃ i Þ LÕLL Þ and delicious dishes like baked tagliolini with smoked turkey.

EVENING ENTERTAINMENT 9) IT’S PARTY TIME

Õ ƂÀi > ÃÌÃ Ài> wi `Ã on December 12. The annual festive bash brings together world-renowned DJs and this year’s line-up includes Hardwell, ƂvÀ >V > ` >ÀV >À >°

10) THE O1NE AND ONLY

Yas Island’s O1NE nightclub is the place to party this winter. December’s themed nights include a wild '90s revival on December 12, and huge parties on the 25th and NYE.

11) A REAL DR AG

The famous Yas Marina Circuit plays host to one of its exciting Drag Nights on December 25. Contestants pit their cars and bikes against each other in a furious quarter-mile blast.

For more information visit yasisland.ae

World Traveller

December // 2014

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WEEKENDS

ABU DHABI

STAY & PLAY As the Middle East gears up for next month’s Omega Dubai Desert Classic, here are three fabulous courses to test your skills – and nearby hotels to relax in afterwards

Play Here: Yas Links Golf Course Created by architect Kyle Phillips, who was also responsible for Kingsbarns Golf Links in Scotland, the 18-hole, par-72 links course is famous for its breathtaking views over the turquoise waters on the Yas Island coast. Guests are welcomed, and the course is forgiving to all levels of player, but watch out for the speed of the greens – the moisture coming off the sea makes them deceptively fast. Be prepared to replace a lot of balls, too, as any wayward shots are likely to be punished by a trip into some deep À Õ} À Ì i Ü>ÌiÀ° / i wÀÃÌ Ã V ÕÀÃi in the Middle East is still the one to beat. yaslinks.com Stay Here: Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi – Yas Island With views that overlook the gorgeous links of the Yas Island golf course, the Crowne Plaza is the number one choice for golfers visiting the popular holiday destination. It’s known as the “19th hole” of the Yas Links course for a reason, and the concierges and staff at the hotel are usually good for tips on the best way to tackle the course. The hotel itself is snug, luxurious and absolutely ideal if you’re looking for a weekend away with friends to enjoy some golf, great weather and v> Ì>ÃÌ V v ` >Ì i v Ì i Ìi ½Ã wÛi restaurants or two bars. ihg.com/crowneplaza

MUSCAT

Play Here: Almouj Golf Course A tough but rewarding course, Almouj is an 18-hole, PGA-standard Championship course located close to Oman Airport. The links style course runs alongside a six-kilometre stretch of ocean frontage, and uses the essence of the Omani environment to create a challenging LÃÌ>V i V ÕÀÃi v LÕ iÀÃ w i` Ü Ì crushed white Omani marble, water hazards, natural dunes and indigenous plants, grasses and shrubs making up the rough. While beginners can make their way round happily, this is a great course for accomplished golfers looking to test themselves. almoujgolf.com 76

Stay Here: The Chedi Muscat Sprawling over 21 acres of gardens, The Chedi is one of the most luxurious places to stay in Oman. Each room is exquisitely appointed in contemporary ƂÃ > ÃÌÞ i Ü Ì " > yÕi ViÃ] > ` the individual suites are all-inclusive and utterly relaxing. The hotel’s health club manager, Milos Padjeski, has devised a

December // 2014

fantastic physical stretching routine that allows golfers to maximise their muscles either ahead of a day’s playing, or to relax them afterwards. The Long Pool, a £ää iÌÀi w ÌÞ « Ü Ì L >â } wÀi lanterns running along its length, is the perfect place to unwind after a day on the course. ghmhotels.com/en/muscat

WEEKENDS

DUBAI

Play Here: Al Badia Golf Course You’d better bring your wetsuit to this course, as it is one of the most waterheavy courses in Dubai. There are very few holes on this par-72 that don’t have water in play, so it’s truly a course for those with great golf intelligence – each hole will need to be carefully plotted and attacked to keep scores, and the number of missing balls, as low as possible. Many Dubai golfers would describe Al Badia as their favourite course in the city, which is high praise in a town that contains so many fantastic places to play. albadiagolfclub.ae Stay Here: InterContinental Festival City Located in a sleek downtown location near Dubai Creek, the InterContinental Festival City stands tall, its architecture inspired by a graceful sailboat. Inside the Ìi Þ Õ½ w ` V i ÃÌ>ÀÀi` v ` LÞ Pierre Gagnaire and a stunning spa, but it’s out-and-about that the hotel shines, sitting as it does between the old and new sections of Dubai, meaning that when you’re not on the course, you’re never short of something to do. For golfers, there is a regular shuttle service between the hotel reception and the Al Badia Golf Club, making a round as easy as can be. ihg.com/intercontinental

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World Traveller

December // 2014

Weekends

brought to you by

World Traveller Weekend Offers Salalah Rotana Resort

Oman

Salalah Rotana Resort 1 night from USD110 per person Special offer: 20% discount on all food and beverage outlets, including room service, and 15% discount on spa treatments at Zen The Spa by Rotana Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ‘til December 20, 2014

YAS ISLAND If you fancy a short break within the GCC, take advantage of these fantastic offers for a weekend to remember on Abu Dhabi’s Yas Island

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Yas Viceroy, Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD155 per person Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ‘til Dec 31, 2014 Crowne Plaza Yas Island, Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD130 per person Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and 2 Yas park Tickets Validity: Now ‘til Feb 28, 2015

December // 2014

Jumeirah Emirates Towers

UAE

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah 1 night from USD150 per person Special offer: 35% room rate reduction plus a complimentary upgrade to Half Board Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ‘til January 31, 2015 Jumeirah Emirates Towers 1 night from USD195 per person Special offer: Receive a guaranteed upgrade to the next available room category plus AED2,000 worth of discounts in the Boulevard Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, access to Wild Wadi once per stay, beach access plus complimentary Wi-Fi Validity: Now ‘til January 31, 2015 Park Hyatt Dubai 1 night from USD160 per person Special offer: Receive a complimentary upgrade to the next available room category plus AED100 voucher per room, per stay to be used at Amara Spa Includes: Stay in a Park Room Validity: Now ‘til January 31, 2015 The St. Regis Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD155 per person Special offer: Free upgrade to Half Board and guaranteed room upgrade to Superior Sea View Includes: Stay in a Superior Room including breakfast daily Validity: Now ‘til January 17, 2015

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

How to book

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi

You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

MIDDLE EAST

MUST DO Dive with whale sharks Oman is swiftly gaining a reputation as one of the world’s most exciting diving destinations. The northern peninsula of Musandam has spectacular fjord-like scenery, and experienced divers are amazed by the variety of oceanic wildlife on display. The Straits of Hormuz are plankton-rich and attract ÛiÀ ää ëiV ià v wà V Õ` } } > Ì > Ì> > ` eagle rays, barracuda, turtles and the gentle whale à >À ] Ì i >À}iÃÌ wÃ Ì i Ãi>° "v V ÕÀÃi] à ÕV marine life and plankton means that visibility is capped at around 20 metres – so don’t be surprised to see an unexpected visitor popping out of the mist to say hello. For more information on visiting Oman and its dive sites, please visit your nearest dnata outlet or call +971 4 316 6666.

World Traveller

December // 2014

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WEEKENDS

SUITE DREAMS

A Manhattan penthouse with impeccable credentials What:

The London Penthouse Where:

The London NYC

About:

Those who say it’s impossible to see everything on a single trip to New York clearly haven’t stayed here. Spanning some 2,500 square viiÌ > ` ÌÜ y ÀÃ >Ì Ì i Ì « v one of the city’s coolest hotels, The

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December // 2014

London Penthouse affords its guests postcard-perfect, 180-degree views of Central Park, the Hudson River, George Washington Bridge and the ever-spectacular Manhattan skyline. -ÕV w i Û ÃÌ>Ã] V Õ« i` Ü Ì Ì i fact the interior design is courtesy of the late, great David Collins,

means you’ll loathe having to leave your Penthouse, so it’s just as well that it also houses a full-service kitchen in which the culinary team of Gordon Ramsay – who handle all aspects of dining at the hotel – can cook up storm of delectable dishes whenever it suits. thelondonnyc.com

OFFICIAL AIRLINE

HOTEL PARTNER

OFFICIAL SUPPLIER

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OFFICIAL TECHNICAL PARTNER

MEDIA PARTNERS

HOST VENUE

SPORT360.COM

GOVERNMENT PARTNER

ORGANISER

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