THE REGION’S BIGGEST LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE
Issue Eighty Five | May 2015
Complimentary Copy
Bucket List
Essentials Once-in-a-lifetime experiences in the GCC and beyond
Plus ICONIC CARIBBEAN Paradise found among tropical islands
ESCAPE TO EUROPE Barcelona, Venice, Provence and more
Produced in International Media Production Zone
WELLNESS GETAWAYS Combining holiday with health for a body boost
Now flying with the world’s
Proud to be the first to fly the A350 XWB We are excited to be the global launch customer for the newest aircraft in the world, the A350 XWB. Boasting an extra-wide body, it offers more space with wider seats and features state-of-the-art technology. Coupled with our award-winning 5-star service, our A350 XWB is more than just a next generation aircraft. It’s truly ahead of the curve. Find out more at qatarairways.com/a350
g to Frankfurt ’s newest aircraft.
LAUNCHING ON 1ST MAY 2015
C O C O RESIDENCES ...................................
AT
...................................
...................................
Introducing an exceptional encounter for the discerning traveller, Coco Residences reveal an experience-led stay, with dedicated lifestyle hosts trained to craft your Coco Experience with the discreet charm of a private butler. Blending signature events with timeless experiences, this sophisticated experience is designed to rekindle romance, refresh the senses and reconnect with nature. ...................................
Visit www.cocoboduhithi.com or email info@cocoboduhithi.com for more information
Thai inspired luxury in the heart of Dubai
Experience heartfelt hospitality at our idyllic five star resort on the iconic Palm Jumeirah crescent. Designed with beachside relaxation and luxurious indulgence in mind, the beautifully appointed rooms, villas and apartments offer true Asian flair, overlooking the tranquil lagoons or the Arabian Gulf. Enjoy the finest ingredients as you embark on culinary journeys through mouthwatering flavours in our four restaurants.
Embark on a journey rich with discovery at
anantara.com
Call +971 4 567 8888 or email resdubaipalm@anantara.com for enquiries and reservations United Arab Emirates • Cambodia • China • Indonesia • Maldives • Mozambique • Qatar • Thailand • Vietnam
May 2015 World Traveller
Editor’s Note Issue eighty five, May 2015 Managing Director
Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director
John Thatcher Deputy Editor
Richard Jenkins
There’s nothing like Europe in early summertime. The days grow longer, and the bars and restaurants ring with laughter as the sunny evenings allow dining and merriment outside. We’ve got a European special to get you in the mood for some wonderful experiences, from tiny towns in Provence through the waterways and canals of Venice, via Barcelona and some of the most terrific train journeys to be found throughout Europe’s rich and varied landscapes.
Features Editor
Lara Brunt Senior Designer
Andy Knappett Designer
Rob Arrow helps holidaymakers plan the perfect routes through New York and Philadelphia on page 22, as well as picking out his alltime favourite safari lodges. Flip to page 75 for all the happenings in the GCC region, including six brilliant Bucket List ideas and some truly tasty restaurant news.
Emi Dixon Illustrator
Andrew Thorpe Sales Manager
I hope you enjoy the issue.
Richard Jenkins Richard@hotmediapublishing.com
Suhail Syed Production Manager
Chalitha Fernando
@wt_magazine
City skyline, Dubai
Jun-Dec 2014 | 22,920 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
5
Welcome Contents
Contents
Check In 8 Be here now Cannes rolls into the French Riviera, and the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in Iceland is majestic in the summertime.
The Sections
13 Globetrotter Cowboy ranches in the USA and beyond, luxury luggage, and designer Matthew Williamson’s glam garden party.
Check In News and inspiration from around the world
20 My City: New York Magnolia Cupcakes’ chief baking officer Bobbie Lloyd on her favourite haunts in the Big Apple.
24 Chef’s Top Tables Destinations In-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust
Heinz Beck, world-renowned Michelinstarred chef, shares his five favourite restaurants and dishes.
26 Spotlight On: Lisbon Europe’s second oldest capital is one of the world’s finest, with cobbled streets, trundling trams and amazing food.
Weekends Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes 6
35 Style & Wellness A look behind the doors of Grace Belgravia, plus a seriously high-tech facial and a desert yoga retreat.
May 2015 World Traveller
Destinations 44 Fields of dreams Provence is the home of grape, glorious vistas and a forgotten world of ancient and beautiful architecture.
52 All Aboard Chug serenely into a new adventure on one of these fabulously glamorous European railway journeys.
Weekends 75 News
58 A city of secrets
Lick your lips - it’s Jumeirah Restaurant Week, so you’d better be hungry.
Venice’s waterways and gondoliers may take the headlines, but there’s much more to the Italian city to be found.
78 Six of the Best
64 Familia territory Barcelona is a city with a pretty strong identity. Alexandra Shulman and her mother decide to introduce themselves.
70 Iconic Caribbean Cricket on the beach, cool cars in Cuba and a world of wildlife - it can only be the islands of the Caribbean.
Got some must-do ideas that you want to tick off your bucket list? Now’s the time.
85 The Great Escape Spend a memorable city break at The Oberoi, Dubai.
88 Suite Dreams A suite in Cape Town with incredible views is the stuff dreams are made of. 7
Check In Be Here Now
Be Here
Now
Antibes, France As the 68th Cannes Film Festival rolls into the Riviera from May 13 to 24, the stars descend on Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Opened in 1870, the glamorous hotel has become a celebrity in its own right, most recently providing the backdrop for the new Miss Dior campaign starring Natalie Portman as a runaway bride. This season, regular guests will discover a redesigned spa with new rooms and a new menu of Sisley treatments, along with the renovated Eden Roc restaurant serving gourmet cuisine from chefs Arnaud Poëtte and Olivier Gaïatto. The Bar La Rotonde, meanwhile, has also been spruced up, losing none of its charm. oetkercollection.com
8
May 2015 World Traveller
9
Check In Be Here Now
10
May 2015 World Traveller
Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Iceland If you thought Iceland was just a winter destination, think again. The incredibly varied scenery of Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west of the country makes for an unforgettable road trip year-round, especially before tourists arrive en masse for the summer season (June to September). Mt. Kirkjufell in the small town of Grundarfjörður, 175km northwest of the capital Reykjavik, is the most photographed mountain in Iceland. Surrounded by beaches, Kirkjufell has a lovely walking trail around it, as well as a more challenging climb to the top where bird and fish fossils can be found.
11
JW MARRIOT TÂŽ MARQUIS DUBAI
A reďŹ ned holiday destination. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai stands elevated above Dubai’s Business Bay on Sheikh Zayed Road, in the heart of the city. With close proximity to Dubai’s key attractions and a •’‡…–”—Â? ‘ˆ ”‡…”‡ƒ–‹‘Â?ƒŽ ÂˆÂƒÂ…Â‹ÂŽÂ‹Â–Â‹Â‡Â•ÇĄ –Š‡ ƒ””‹‘–– ƒ”“—‹• —„ƒ‹ ‘ƥ‡”• the perfect getaway for the whole family –Š‹• •—Â?Â?‡”. 1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS, WITH INTERCONNECTING ROOMS, IDEAL FOR FAMILIES 14 RESTAURANTS AND THE SUBLIME SARAY SPA OUTDOOR SWIMMING PO COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE BUS SERVICE TO DUBAI MALL
Book your next stay now online on jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com, email jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com or call +971 4 414 0000.
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com | arabic.marriott.com
May 2015 World Traveller
Globetrotter Here’s what’s hot in the world of travel this month...
Saddle Up Inextricably linked to Arab culture, a holiday on horseback makes an ideal getaway for travellers from the region. From cattle mustering to elephant spotting, here are three excellent equine adventures…
Home Valley Station, Australia
Ant’s Nest, South Africa
Brush Creek Ranch, USA
Reopening this month following its annual hiatus over the wet season, this 615,000acre working cattle station lies in the shadow of West Australia’s spectacular Cockburn Ranges. Ride along trails that formed part of the original stock route in the 1800s and sign up for cattle mustering, bushtucker treks, fishing expeditions and scenic helicopter flights.
Located on its own private game reserve in the magnificent, malaria-free Waterberg region, Ant’s Nest specialises in familyfriendly safaris on horseback. From cantering with giraffe and wildebeest to meandering through a herd of grazing zebra or past a family of rhino, safaris can be tailored to suit both experienced riders and beginners.
With over 30,000 acres of Rocky Mountain wilderness and 50 miles of private trails to explore, this luxury dude ranch in Wyoming is the place to fulfil your cowboy fantasies. Alongside the sprawling equestrian centre, there’s an outdoor Mustang Arena for cowboy games, roundups, brandings, and rodeos, plus fly fishing, shooting, rock climbing and golf.
Image: Home Valley Station. © Frances Andrijich / Tourism Western Australia
13
Check In Globetrotter
Clever clock
Roll with it Sure, you can use your smartphone to figure out the time in different parts of the world, but this pocket-sized timepiece from Korean design firm Elevenplus is infinitely more interesting. Measuring 85mm in diameter and weighing just 144g, the World Clock has a cylindrical body that displays 24 different time zones via a clever rolling mechanism, while independently working hands enable it to easily revert back to local time. elevenpl.us
City escape
Garden Party Fashion designer Matthew Williamson and installation artist Rebecca Louise Law have collaborated to create a bohemian summer hideaway in the heart of London. Launching on May 19, the Hendrick’s Horticultural Oasis in the courtyard of Blakes Hotel Kensington features
Williamson’s signature exotic prints and specially curated objet d’arts. Law, meanwhile, has created a sweet-smelling canopy of dried roses, peonies, hydrangeas and Juniper berries under which guests can sip cocktails made with fresh herbs from the garden. Until July 14, blakeshotels.com
Travel Download All the media you need, whatever your journey
Dubai eats
Perfect match
App Hyperlapse
Music Wilder Mind
Film Blackhat
Book The Stranger
This nifty app from Instagram allows you create polished time-lapse videos that were previously only possible using bulky equipment.
British folk rockers Mumford & Sons ditch their trademark banjo for a more electric sound on their third studio album.
Chris Hemsworth plays a convicted hacker forced to work with the FBI to hunt a cybercrime network from Chicago to Jakarta.
Adam and Corinne’s life begins to fall apart after a mysterious stranger discloses a shocking secret in Harlan Coben’s new thriller.
14
After scooping the coveted Best Newcomer crown at this year’s Time Out Dubai Restaurant Awards, Solo Bistronomia & Vinobar at Raffles Dubai has firmly established itself as the city’s new go-spot for authentic Italian cuisine. Chef Corrado Pani serves creative plates from regions as diverse as Tuscany and Sicily, Campania and Lombardy. A must for cheese fans is the Genius Loci (‘Perfect Match’) evening, held every Tuesday from 6pm, which sees Solo’s charming and knowledgeable sommelier pair five glasses of grape with five delectable cheeses. solodubai.ae
Check In Globetrotter
On our radar
Milan, Italy As Expo2015 kicks off in Milan this month, all eyes are on Italy’s stylish second city. A smattering of new hotels have opened, including the fabulously located TownHouse Duomo (above), boasting eight suites with floor-to-ceiling French windows and balconies overlooking the Duomo; butler service; and a top floor restaurant and terrace overlooking the cathedral. Located a few minutes from trendy Corso Como, ME Milan - Il Duca also has a fantastic terrace, along with 132 sleek rooms and, of course, your own Aura Manager. The budget design hotel, Moxy Milan, is another new arrival. Firmly targeting 18-35 year old “millennials” with its hipster flourishes (think DJ booth and walls plastered with images of bearded men), the out-of-town location near the airport won’t suit everyone. Mandarin Oriental Milan, meanwhile, is set to open next month, a stone’s throw from La Scala. Milan is also hosting Italy’s largest ever exhibition dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Held at the Royal Palace, it will include some of his most important paintings and an impressive selection of drawings (until July 19), while the Universal Exposition runs until October 31.
New exhibition
Images of Islam From photographing rock stars in London’s Swinging ‘60s to capturing the rituals of the Hajj, it’s fair to say Peter Sanders’ career has been diverse. After starting off snapping everyone from Bob Dylan and The Who to Jimi Hendrix and The Rolling Stones, the London-born photographer has spent the last 30 years capturing traditional Muslim societies in transition. A new exhibition of his work, entitled The World is but a Moment, has opened at The Empty Quarter gallery in Dubai. Featuring photographs from his archive of more than 250,000 images taken in countries such as Yemen, Syria and Saudi Arabia, the exhibition offers a glimpse into traditional 16
Islamic societies as they once were. “My photography has always been an extension of my life,” he says. While music was his main interest in the ‘60s, towards the end of the 1970s he embarked on a spiritual journey in India, before deciding to embrace the Muslim way of life. His newfound faith led him to Saudi Arabia, where he was one of the first Westerners to photograph the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. “It took me about two weeks, going from office to office, to gain permission. There was huge interest in the pictures and they appeared in Paris Match, Sunday Times, The Observer and Stern magazine,” he recalls. Until June 15, theemptyquarter.com
Must-have bag
Something for the Weekend WT is a big fan of London designer Otis Batterbee’s luxury manbags and travel accessories. And his new collection of backpacks, totes, weekenders and wash bags is another winner. Inspired by the 1940s Isokon apartment block, a daringly modern design in leafy Hampstead, the hexagonal print is an instant classic. Available at Harrods, Liberty and Fortnum & Mason. otisbatterbee.com
May 2015 World Traveller
New opening
Sweet music Budapest’s newest boutique hotel is something to sing about. Located in the heart of Pest, the 48-room Aria Hotel Budapest has four themed wings dedicated to jazz, classical, opera and contemporary music. Classical and opera rooms reflect the hotel’s 19th-century exterior with Murano-glass chandeliers, Neo-Baroque furnishings and contemporary colour palettes such as hazelnut and turquoise. Rooms in the jazz wing are reminiscent of a 1920’s jazz club, with exposed brick and Art Nouveau furnishings, while the contemporary wing celebrates pop art of the 1970s with bold colours and framed records from the likes of The Beatles and James Brown. There’s a fabulous rooftop terrace overlooking St. Stephen’s Basilica and an elegant restaurant, but if you fancy tinkling the ivories yourself, head straight to the glass-enclosed courtyard with its gleaming grand piano and striking piano key floor tiles. ariahotelbudapest.com 19
Check In My City
MY CITY
New York
Bobbie Lloyd Magnolia Bakery’s chief baking officer shares her hot spots in the Big Apple Check-in to the Soho Grand for the great Downtown scene; The Mondrian Soho for comfort and style; or The Peninsula on Fifth Avenue for location and luxury. For a cultural fix, visit the Lincoln Center on the Upper West Side for ballet, opera, theatre, classical concerts, film and food. In the summer they produce free outdoor concerts and performances in their amphitheatre – highly recommended! And there are plenty of street and subway performers singing, dancing and playing all over the city – sometimes it’s nice to slow down and admire their talent. There 20
is so much for art and design fans to see and do, but one of my favourite museums is the Frick Collection on the Upper East Side, which includes superb examples of Old Master and 19th-century paintings. I also recommend The Whitney, which specialises in American art and reopens this month in a new building in the Meatpacking District. Spend some time taking in the Chelsea art scene, too; Thursday night is open gallery night and you can always find new and interesting artworks to view. Meanwhile, the best luxury shopping can be found on Madison Avenue (Barneys is a favourite, with everything under one roof), Saks Fifth Avenue and Tiffany & Co, and I also enjoy wandering the luxury boutiques in SoHo – you might even run into a celebrity or two while shopping. Foodies should make tracks to Chelsea Market, Union Square Farmers’ Market, Chinatown and Eataly, a huge complex with seven restaurants in the Flatiron District. For a sweet treat, head to Magnolia Bakery, of course! And I highly recommend Jacques Torres for chocolate and Dominique Ansel Bakery on Spring Street – inventor of the cronut – for unique desserts. There are so many amazing restaurants to choose from, but I love Barchetta, an Italian seafood trattoria in Chelsea; Blue Ribbon, a Soho institution since 1992; Bond Street in NoHo for Japanese; Balthazar, a French-
style bistro in Spring Street; and the Plaza Food Hall, a great place to pop in for lunch or an early dinner if you are shopping on Fifth Avenue. For a true NYC experience, clink glasses at Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle on East 76th Street, which has murals of Central Park on the walls. A great place to take in the views is the Top of the Rock observation deck at the Rockefeller Center, while an unforgettable place I’ve visited is the High Line, a disused rail track that was resurrected as a 1.45-milelong elevated park in 2009, and, of course, Central Park; the view of the Midtown skyline from the Great Lawn at night is just magical and there’s a great running trail around the Reservoir if you’re feeling active. Most people don’t know this about the city but New Yorkers are more than eager to help you with directions or share their favourite dining spot - just ask! And more and more people are exploring the city on two wheels with CitiBike – you can rent bikes at various locations. Finally, don’t leave without eating a slice of pizza, a bagel and a hotdog; riding the subway; walking across Brooklyn Bridge; taking the Circle Line cruise around the island of Manhattan; or listening to some jazz music in Harlem or the Upper West Side. I live around the corner from Smoke, a fantastic little venue on Broadway that has awe-inspiring jazz talent on display every night – and very good food, too.
FINEST SUITES AT THE FINEST ADDRESS IN QATAR At The St. Regis Doha every moment becomes a treasure and every experience a new family tradition. Offering a choice of seductive one-, two-, or three-bedroom suites, The St. Regis Doha provides families with the ultimate experience in distinctive elegance.
All 58 suites offer generous space, high ceilings, sumptuous furnishings and striking views of the Arabian Gulf. The St. Regis Doha is the ideal destination for families with extensive dining choices at eleven signature restaurants & lounges, and recreation options that include access to the exclusive beach, Olympic size pool and beautiful private cabanas. Come, explore.
for reservations: reservations.doha@stregis.com al gassar resort at west bay 974.4446.0000 stregisdoha.com
a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s finest hotels & resorts. africa the americas asia europe the middle east ©2010–2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
Check In Ask The Expert
Ask the EXPERT
Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his favourite city Los Angeles and his dream is to one day own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps. 22
Q. My wife and I are visiting New York next month. Are there any good day trips out of the city that you’d recommend?
Q. I want to take my family to spot the Big 5 in Africa. Can you recommend some luxury safari lodges suitable for families?
A. The US has an excellent railway network, making a number of smaller East Coast cities easily accessible for daytrippers. A frequent inter-city service links Manhattan to Philadelphia in around 75-90 mins, and compact “Philly” is rated as one of the best walking cities in the country and is good for shopping, too. The city is steeped in history, from the Liberty Bell to the Art Museum Steps (better known as the Rocky Steps, thanks to Sylvester Stallone’s fictional boxing hero). Closer to the city, Coney Island can be reached via New York City’s efficient subway system. Home to a burgeoning arts community and the Big Apple’s most famous amusement park, this fun seaside suburb is like stepping back in time and feels a world away from the city. The Hamptons on Long Island, meanwhile, has been a popular getaway for well-heeled New Yorkers since the 1920s. You can reach its white-sand beaches and picturesque villages in around two hours aboard the Long Island Railroad.
A. There are a growing number of top quality safari lodges that go out of their way to cater for families. With a flight time of around 5½ hours from Dubai, East Africa is a good choice for first-timers. In Tanzania, Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti has family-friendly safari itineraries, a kids’ club, large suites with private pools, and complimentary accommodation, food and beverage for children under 11 who are sharing a room with their parents. Further afield, my favourite lodge is Ulusaba Safari Lodge in South Africa’s Sabi Sands Game Reserve, near Kruger National Park. The setting and the two lodges, Rock and Safari, are simply stunning, with tree houses, rope swing bridges and the Big 5 passing by. Children under six stay free and there’s a kids’ club, two game drives a day and bush walking. Within Rock Lodge is the two-suite Cliff Lodge (pictured), which is ideal for larger families and comes with a private chef, gym and spa treatment room, and a private vehicle for game drives.
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON RAS AL KHAIMAH FROM AED
330
WITH BREAKFAST FOR 2
B E A SU N , SE A & SAN D WEEK EN D ER
Save 25%
on weekend escapes HURRY THERE ARE ONLY 40 WEEKENDS LEFT TO ENJOY RAS AL KHAIMAH HILTON AL HAMRA BEACH AND GOLF RESORT FROM AED
HILTON RAS AL KHAIMAH RESORT AND SPA
480
FROM AED
600
WITH BREAKFAST FOR 2
WITH BREAKFAST FOR 2
WEEKEND RATES STARTING FROM
AED
330
Unspoilt beaches, championship golf courses and fun adventures for the whole family await. Choose from five stunning hotels and resorts to suit your personal style, budget and occasion. Take advantage of our fantastic rates and make your Ras Al Khaimah weekend count!
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON RESORT AND SPA MARJAN ISLAND FROM AED
hiltonhotelsmea.com/rak 07 2065296
BOOK NOW AT OR CALL
WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH FROM AED
495
WITH BREAKFAST FOR 2
937
WITH BREAKFAST FOR 2
Featured rates are ‘from rates’ and subject to availability. Rates will vary based on selected hotels and may include higher or lower rates than advertised based on specific travel dates. Each hotel has a policy addressing cancellation or blackout dates that may apply. Unless otherwise stated, quoted rates are per room per night, based on double occupancy and do not include taxes, gratuities, incidental charges, golf green fees, resort or tourism fees or other associated costs (where applicable). Full non-refundable prepayment required at time of booking. Your credit card will be charged immediately for the total amount quoted for the entire stay as reserved and refunds or credits will not be issued unless otherwise indicated by local law. Charges cannot be applied to other stays, services or merchandise. Booking cannot be changed. Must book at least three (3) days in advance of arrival.
Check In Chef’s Top Tables
Chef’s
TOP TABLES
Jean-Georges, New York, USA Order: Molten Chocolate Cake Heinz Beck shot to fame by rapidly earning three Michelin stars at his Rome restaurant La Pergola. In 2014, he expanded to Dubai, opening Social by Heinz Beck at Waldorf Astoria The Palm. Here are his favourite dishes from around the globe.
Narisawa, Tokyo, Japan Order: Wagyu beef coated in vegetable ash I love the food at Narisawa; Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa’s use of seasonal ingredients and his philosophy of bringing nature to the plate is very inspiring. The Wagyu Beef dish is coated in very fine ash of charred vegetables. This ‘carbonisation’ adds a wonderful smoky element as well as seasoning the dish. Yoshihiro and I first met in Brazil for an event many years ago and I tasted this dish. Last year when I was in Tokyo I did not miss the chance to visit Narisawa and eat Wagyu beef again.
Quique Dacosta, Dénia, Spain Order: Cuba Libre de Foie Gras Chef Quique Dacosta serves incredible Valencian cuisine in his restaurant: it is modern and displays cutting-edge gastronomy. The foie gras dish is a stand out for me due to the exceptional texture of the foie gras and the natural sweetness Dacosta captures in the dish. I love the way it is presented and eaten also, but I don’t want to ruin the surprise! 24
I love chocolate; it is one of my favourite things, so a chocolate dish had to make it into my top five. Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s dessert has been copied on menus across the world but his original is the best. It is intensely chocolately with a molten truffle centre - it is one of his signature dishes and I promise, if you try it, you will know why.
Molten chocolate cake
Le Calandre, Rubano, Padova, Italy Order: Pigeon with wild blackberries The pigeon meat is cooked gently and accompanied with a sauce of wild blackberries, fried incense-flavoured polenta and paté livers – I like this dish, combining simple ingredients in harmony. When I go to a restaurant I don’t have a preference for fine-dining or casual, what is important is the ambience of the restaurant should always be relaxed and welcoming. This is certainly achieved at Le Calandre.
Restaurant Überfahrt, RottachEgern, Germany Order: Lamb innards, watercress purée, quail eggs, watercress flan and porcini mushrooms This is a very memorable dish. The restaurant is small, set on Lake Tegernsee. It is simple and casual in décor and ambience but the food is bold and intelligent. Chef Christian Juergens brings subtlety of flavour to every plate; he is a very talented chef.
Restaurant Überfahrt
May 2015 World Traveller
Wagyu beef coated in vegetable ash
25
Check In Spotlight On
Spotlight On /LVERQ
Europe’s second oldest capital is packed with cobblestone streets, trundling trams and glorious vistas
See and Do Castelo São Jorge
Eat and Drink Belcanto
Stay Four Seasons Ritz Hotel
Perched on the highest of Lisbon’s seven hills above the old Moorish quarter, the Castle of St George dates back to the ninthcentury and can be seen from almost every street. The castle was severely damaged by a devastating earthquake in 1755 and restored to its former glory in the 1940s.
Situated in the heart of Lisbon’s historic centre, celebrity chef José Avillez serves up creative, contemporary haute cuisine at this two Michelin-starred establishment. Around the corner is the chef’s casual diner, Cantinho do Avillez, which is famous for its partridge pies.
This elegant hotel houses 18th-century replica furnishings and an outstanding collection of contemporary Portuguese tapestries, paintings and sculpture. There are 282 huge rooms and suites overlooking Parque Eduardo VII, a sublime spa and the acclaimed Varanda Restaurant.
Rua Augusta Arch
À Margem
Completed in 1875 to celebrate Lisbon’s reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake, the triumphal arch links the riverfront Comercio Square to the lively pedestrian street, Rua Augusta. An elevator takes you to the terrace at the top of the arch, offering 360º views.
Housed in a gleaming white former shipping container in touristy Belém, this trendy riverfront restaurant and bar makes a perfect pit stop after visiting the World Heritage-listed Belém Tower. A 10-minute walk away is Pastéis de Belém café, inventor of the famous Portuguese custard tart.
Tram 28
Eleven
Vintage wooden trams still rumble up Lisbon’s steepest streets. The number 28 passes through the oldest quarters, from the city centre at sea level, right up through the shopping districts of Baixa and Chiado towards the Castle of St George.
Set high on a hill in Parque Eduardo VII, this chic restaurant boasts beautiful views of Lisbon, a Michelin star and one of the city’s best cellars. German chef Joachim Koerper prepares modern Mediterranean dishes using locally grown ingredients.
26
ç 'RQàW PLVV The Museu Calouste Gulbenkian houses a magnificent collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian and European art gifted by the late oil magnate, Calouste Gulbenkian. Nearby, the Centro de Arte Moderna has more than 10,000 contemporary and modern artworks by artists such as Paula Rego, Almada Negreiros and Souza Cardoso.
Treasured Time. Our promise to you.
At Rotana, we have chosen to acknowledge how precious time is to you by making all time spent with us, Treasured Time. This means that we pledge to understand and meet the individual needs of all our guests. In so doing, we have evolved our product brands to include, Rotana Hotels & Resorts, Arjaan Hotel Apartments by Rotana, Centro Hotels by Rotana, Rayhaan Hotels & Resorts by Rotana and The Residences by Rotana. Visit us during ATM on our stand number HC6720
P.O. Box: 95100, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates T: +971 (0)2 699 4444, F: +971 (0)2 699 4445, head.ofďŹ ce@rotana.com
May 2015 World Traveller
Grace & Favour London Escaping to London this summer? Grace Belgravia, the luxurious, women-only wellness club, has launched a three-month membership that’s perfect for those temporarily calling the UK capital home. Located a stone’s throw from Knightsbridge, the swanky club includes an indulgent spa, results-driven gym and café serving superfood-laden cuisine. There’s also a clinic offering bespoke wellness and medical programmes designed by Dr Tim Evans, apothecary to the Queen, and his team of doctors, health practitioners and therapists. So whether you want to de-stress, relax, lose weight, get fit or sleep better, you won’t find a lovelier place in which to do it. Available from June to September, the summer membership is available over three consecutive or non-consecutive months. gracebelgravia.com
&
Style Wellness
31
Check In Style & Wellness
Hot Yoga Move over Bikram, there’s a new sweaty yoga in town. From May 6-9, master trainer Vipin Baloni will host a yoga retreat at Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara in the Liwa Desert. Designed for novices and expert yogis alike,
LA Woman The London West Hollywood unveils the largest suite in the city this month, designed by Vivienne Westwood and costing a whopping $25,000 per night. Split over two levels, the 11,000-square-foot penthouse features rugs, wall-hangings, soft furnishings and customised furnishings handpicked by the British fashion designer, along with a magnificent
there will be daily sunrise and sunset sessions atop the russet-red dunes to discover or perfect Hatha and Ashtanga moves, as well as classes to master pranayama breathing techniques and chakra meditation. qasralsarab. anantara.com
5,000-square-foot rooftop terrace. The focal point is a large central rug in the salon, boasting the designer’s iconic squiggle pattern first seen in her seminal 1981 Pirate Collection. Guests will also be treated to His and Her gift bags, Vivienne Westwood-branded amenities, and a private shopping experience at the Dame’s boutique in West Hollywood. thelondonwesthollywood.com
2. 1.
7.
3.
7
Hi-Tech Facial
Magnificent Beach Chic
6.
5. 4.
(1) Sensi Studio ‘Lady Ibiza’ hat (2) Ray-Ban ‘Wayfarer’ sunglasses (3) Zimmermann broderie anglaise tunic (4) Koku tote (5) Tory Burch sandals (6) Philip B Maui Wowie Beach Mist (7) Ephemera swimsuit. Available at Net-A-Porter.com
32
Beloved by Beyoncé, HydraFacial has come to the Northern Emirates. Available exclusively at Kempinski Hotel Ajman, HydraFacial uses a vacuum-based abrasion wand to cleanse your skin, remove dead skin cells and painlessly extract impurities. The wonder wand is also loaded with hydrating, antioxidant-rich serums to combat different skin complaints, from fine lines and wrinkles to hyper pigmentation and sun damage. “It’s a noninvasive procedure that ranks above IPL treatments for rejuvenation and is less harsh than microdermabrasion,” says spa manager Janine Kay. “And the best thing is, you’ll see results straight away.” WT can attest to that. We left with baby-soft skin and a handful of at-home products to keep our skin glowing. kempinski.com
May 2015 World Traveller
A
Gorgeous Getaway From tropical treehouses to overwater retreats, your dream villa awaits at Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives
Water Villa
Ocean View Villa
L
ocated in the undiscovered Addu Atoll, the archipelago’s southernmost atoll, ShangriLa’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives features over six kilometres of picturesque coastline, two kilometres of white sandy beach and 12 hectares of lush vegetation. Add to that 17,000 swaying coconut palms, three natural lagoons and 45 species of plants and it’s easy to see why this tropical beach paradise is so coveted. The resort is also home to six restaurants and bars, a 17,000sqm spa - one of the largest in the Maldives - and a range of distinctly styled villas. Try one of these on for size…
Tree House Villa
Ocean View Villas
Tree House Villas
Perched on stilts three-meters above the ground and measuring an impressive 218sqm, each Ocean View villa has its own infinity pool, separate bedroom and living room areas, and indoor and outdoor showers. And did we mention those amazing ocean views?
These island hideaways are perfect for adventurers, or honeymooners and couples seeking seclusion. Set on stilts among the treetops, each 231sqm villa has its own infinity plunge pool and sun deck affording excellent views over the Indian Ocean.
Beach Villas
Two-bedroom Beach Villas
Set over two separate pavilions, with a living area on one side and bedroom on the other, every 189sqm Beach Villa features a landscaped courtyard and an infinity pool. There are indoor and outdoor showers and your own private terrace that leads to the beach.
These twin villas are located beside each other, making them ideal for families. The bedrooms of each 224sqm villa share a large patio and sun deck complete with an infinity pool. The bathrooms have indoor and outdoor showers, too.
Special offer Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort & Spa, Maldives Special offer: Stay 4 nights and pay for 3 Includes: Stay in an Ocean View Villa, Water Villa, Tree House Villa, Beach Villa or Two-bedroom Beach Villa with breakfast daily Validity: Until Dec 19, 2015 Book by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or visiting dnatatravel.com
33
May 2015 World Traveller
Moorish Magic Morocco Bathed in natural light, the impressive wrought iron atrium at Marrakech’s Royal Mansour Spa sets the tone for what’s to come. Spanning three floors, the jaw-dropping spa houses 13 treatment rooms, including three private spa suites, two hammams, an indoor swimming pool, Watsu bath area, fitness centre and tea salon where you can sip sweet Moroccan mint tea. Treatments range from the signature Hammam ‘Lumiere sur le Corps’ using all-natural products from MarocMaroc – Morroco’s leading skincare range – to the latest advances in anti-ageing facials from Dr Hauschka and Sisley. The rest of the hotel is just as gorgeous, with 53 lavishly decorated riads with private roof terraces and plunge pools, the largest of which come with your very own hammam. royalmansour.com
35
Check In dnata Offers
WORLD TRAVELLER
Reader Offers A I
A USA The Pierre, New York, A Taj Hotel
4 nights from USD1,110 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an extra night free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room on room only basis with return airport transfers Validity: May 1-Jun 20, 2015 Located on Fifth Avenue and overlooking Central Park, this grand dame combines old-school glamour with contemporary innovation. 36
B Portugal Conrad Algarve
Italy Excelsior Hotel Gallia, Milan
3 nights from USD620 per person Special offer: 12% early booking discount Includes: Stay in a Deluxe room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Booking window from May 1-Oct 31, 2015. Stay Dates months of Oct, Nov, Dec 2015 and Jan, Feb 2016 (excluding Christmas and New Year’s Eve)
2 nights from USD430 per person Special offer: 15% off rates special EXPO 2015 promotion* Includes: Stay in a Premium Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers *Validity: Weekends (Fri-Sun nights) for Jul 2015, all days (Mon-Sun nights) in Aug 2015, black-out dates apply.
This elegant hotel is close to sandy beaches and golf courses.
Boasts a four-bedroom suite, Italy’s largest at 1,000 sqm.
South Africa Ulusaba Safari Lodge, Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve 4 nights from USD2,010 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Double Safari Room on full board basis, with daily safari activities. Return air charter transfer from Johannesburg airport Validity: May 1-Jul 31, 2015 This secluded safari lodge is a top spot for Big 5 game viewing.
May 2015 World Traveller
C B
K
E L
How to Book G
You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666
F
H
D
Or by visiting dnatatravel. com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.
J
E Beirut Raouche Arjaan Beirut
F Seychelles Kempinski Seychelles 1 night from USD172 per person Resort Baie Lazare
Special offer: One level upgrade. Free Wi-FI Includes: Classic room with breakfast daily* Validity: Jul 1–Sep 30, 2015 *Book by Jun 15 Located on Raouche Boulevard, this 4-star hotel is close to the bustling downtown area. There are 175 studios, suites and rooms offering city and sea views, along with a rooftop pool and male and female saunas.
3 nights starting from USD720 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to half board Includes: Stay in a Beachside Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: May 1-Jul 16, 2015 This idyllic resort on Mahé has Hill View, Beachside and Sea View rooms, plus gourmet dining, watersports, a Kids’ Club and an indulgent spa.
Thailand The Peninsula Bangkok
H Indonesia InterContinental Bali 1 night from USD116 per person Resort
in two Deluxe Rooms Special offer: Family promotion, 50% discount on an adjoining room for children under 12 years old Validity: Jul 18-Sep 30, 2015* *Book by May 30, 2015 Right on the Chao Phraya River, all rooms have river views. There’s an outdoor pool, a spa and wellness centre, three restaurants and the Peninsula’s famous 24-hour service.
3 nights from USD1,330 per person Special offer: 30% room rate reduction plus one child under 12 years old stays and eats free Includes: Stay in Resort Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: May 1-Sep 30, 2015 This beachfront resort has six pools, lush gardens, watersports galore and excellent dining options from Balinese to Italian. 37
Check In dnata Offers
Amirandes
Montage Beverly Hills
Zaya Nurai Island
dnata’s FANTASTIC FOUR
Landmark Hotels
Get close to some of the world’s best sights by booking a stay in one of these luxurious spots I
USA Montage Beverly Hills, Los Angeles 5 nights from USD6,055 per person Special offer: Stay 4 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in Deluxe King Room and return airport transfers Validity: May 1-Jul 10, 2015 A stone’s throw from Rodeo Drive, this 5-star hotel has elegant rooms and suites, a rooftop pool, the acclaimed Scarpetta restaurant, and a luxury spa, salon and barber. 38
J
South Africa Western Cape Discovery 9 nights from USD2,110 per person Special offer: -3 nights in a 4* hotel in Cape Town with breakfast and half day tours -2 nights in a 4* hotel with breakfast and half day tour -2 nights in a 4* hotel on the Whale Coast with breakfast and whale watching tour -2 nights in a 4* hotel with breakfast and full day sightseeing tour and lunch at a local ostrich farm -Return airport transfers Validity: May 1-Sep 30, 2015
K
L
Greece Amirandes, Grecotel Exclusive
UAE Zaya Nurai Island, Abu Dhabi
5 nights from USD450 per person Special offer: 40% off on FIT rates* Includes: Stay in a Luxury Guest Room with Sea View including breakfast and return airport transfers Validity: Book by May 15, 2015. Stay between Apr 30-Jun 30 , 2015 *Min stay 5 nights
4 nights from USD1,895 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive the 4th night free plus one ‘dinner under the stars’ with a complimentary bottle of champagne, one couple’s spa treatment and one complimentary dive activity per person per stay Includes: Stay in a Beach Retreat with breakfast daily Validity: May 15-Jul 31,2015* *Supplements apply for Eid and public holidays
A relaxed, yet sophisticated 5-star resort on Crete.
May 2015 World Traveller Promotion
All aboard for the
Monaco GRAND PRIX
S
ilversea’s small luxury ships are designed for those who delight in the thrill of discovery while indulging mind and body in the most lavish surroundings imaginable. All accommodations are spacious, ocean-view suites and most include butler service and private verandas. Silversea voyages and cruise expeditions sail to over 800 destinations on all seven continents - more than any other cruise line. Our intimate, ultra-luxury ships can sail up narrow waterways into the heart of a city, or tie up right at the pier while others must anchor off shore. And for those who yearn to explore the new and unknown, enjoy the ease, convenience and value of an all-inclusive cruise fare that includes almost all of your discretionary onboard expenses. Silversea Cruises, in conjunction with dnata Sports Travel, has secured a fantastic package combining a Silversea cruise with the Monaco Grand Prix, which takes place this month. This is the ultimate luxury Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix package, while the dates of travel also coincide with the Cannes Film Festival.
The Details
The Offers
Destinations: Barcelona, Sete, Cannes, Ajaccio, Monte Carlo, Portofino, Livorno, Civitavecchia (Rome) Voyage Number: 5512 Ship: Silver Spirit Departure: May 18, 2015 Embarkation: Barcelona Suite Type: Veranda Suite F1 Monaco Grand Prix Dates: May 23-24, 2015
9 days Spain, France and Italian Riviera Sailing on Silver Spirit with a two-day Standard Race Ticket. Packages start from AED29,900 per person. 9 days Spain, France and Italian Riviera Sailing on Silver Spirit with twoday Paddock Club Race Tickets. Packages start from AED50,900 per person.
All prices include: ƵɅ 9 days all inclusive cruise on twin sharing basis ƵɅ Accomodation in Veranda Suite ƵɅ Shore excursions, Wi-Fi on board ƵɅ Port taxes, gratuities on cruise ƵɅ 2-day Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix tickets ƵɅ 20% VAT on race tickets For enquiries call 04316 6674 or email cruise@dnata.com 39
Check In World Traveller Promotion
Summer in the Seychelles
Just under five hours away, the idyllic islands of the Seychelles are ideal for families. Here’s why…
Perfect weather
Unique nature
Instead of sweltering at home, pack the kids and enjoy the warm tropical climate of the Seychelles. Located just south of the equator in the Indian Ocean, the archipelago is made up of 115 pristine islands, although only 16 are inhabited including the main islands of Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. Temperatures range from 24-31°C year-round, with a cooling southeast trade wind from May to October.
The Seychelles is bursting with incredible plants and animals, lush nature reserves, and the world’s largest raised coral atoll. Giant tortoises roam freely on some islands, while little explorers will love Praslin’s Vallée de Mai where the magical coco de mer palm grows. There’s excellent snorkelling for all ages, and scuba diving or swimming with whale sharks for parents, too.
Jaw-dropping beauty
Easily accessible
From white-sand beaches and warm turquoise waters to verdant peaks and untouched tropical forests, the Seychelles is the archetypal island paradise. Mahé, Praslin and La Digue all boast familyfriendly resorts with kids’ clubs, children’s swimming pools and beaches that are safe for swimming. The tiny capital of Victoria, meanwhile, features traditional architecture and a lively local market.
Travelling to the Seychelles from the GCC couldn’t be easier. With a flight time of less than five hours from Dubai or Abu Dhabi, your family won’t need a visa to enter. And once you’ve arrived, island-hopping by ferry or light plane is simple and stress-free, with around 20 flights per day between Mahé and Praslin, the second largest island. Best of all, the Seychelles is safe and malariafree.
Kempinski Seychelles Resort
40
May 2015 World Traveller
SPECIAL OFFER Kempinski Seychelles Resort Baie Lazare 1 night from USD1,532 per person Special offer: Book a second room for up to 3 children under 12 years old and receive 50% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Hillview Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Jul 1-Oct 31, 2015 Book by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or visiting dnatatravel.com Kids’ Club at Kempinski Seychelles Resort
Deluxe sea view room
Family Favourite Kempinski Seychelles Resort On the exclusive southern end of Mahé, just 30 minutes from the international airport, the Kempinski Seychelles Resort is the ideal spot for a relaxing, or adventure-filled, family holiday. Spread across 65-acres, the resort has luxurious sea or hill view rooms and beachside suites, along with a huge range of facilities that are all within easy walking distance. Located on the famous Baie Lazare beach, there’s an 800-metre-long stretch of sand for the family to play and relax,
and a whole host of watersports, from snorkelling and kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding and surfing. For parents and teenagers, there’s an on-site dive centre and Olympic-sized swimming pool, along with an indulgent spa. Little ones, meanwhile, will love the children’s pool and the fantastic Kempinski Kids’ Club for 4-12 year olds. With a different theme each day, from Nature Play Day to Pirates Day, there’s a free program of activities from 9am until 6pm, including arts and crafts, treasure hunts, face painting, storytelling, tennis lessons and termite crab racing.
Big kids don’t miss out either, with an action-packed schedule of daily activities, from yoga and snorkelling safaris to traditional dance classes and beach volleyball tournaments. At the end of day, the whole family can gather for tortoise feeding and nature walks, before sitting down for dinner at Café Lazare, the resort’s all-day dining venue, or the signature seafood restaurant, L’Indochine, both of which cater for younger guests. Or if mum and dad fancy a quiet dinner for two, there’s 24-hour room service and babysitting available. For more information, visit kempinski.com 41
While at Raffles, why not visit Istanbul? Legendary service since 1887 Our reputation travels
RAFFLES HOTELS & RESORTS: ISTANBUL SINGAPORE PARIS DUBAI BEIJING HAINAN PRASLIN, SEYCHELLES JAKARTA PHNOM PENH & SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA MAKATI MAKKAH, SAUDI ARABIA
RAFFLES.COM/ISTANBUL
+90 212 924 0200
May 2015 World Traveller
Europe Special All aboard for a summer of adventures
44 Provence 52 Great European Railway Journeys 58 Venice 66 Barcelona
43
44
Fields of Dreams
The pretty, peaceful, eccentric, foodie Provence you fantasise about? After dozens of trips there, Anthony Peregrine can ďŹ nd it for you with his eyes shut...
45
Destinations Provence Opening page: Field of purple lavender. This page, clockwise from right: Roman Ampitheatre; Aries old town; Notre Dame de Grace, Gignac; Village of Gordes
T
he tax bill has just landed, the cat has worms and the Jehovah’s Witnesses clearly have me down as ‘a possible’. It’s time to get out, and away to Provence. I want the sun biting into my skin as I fling off my anorak. I want crags, ravines and a sense of life lived hard for centuries. Then I need it softening (no-one ever confused me with Bear Grylls): fish soup, lamb with herbs and a bottle of rosé on a village terrace. There may also be a game of boules, and an art gallery. Or there may not. Thus will taxes, infested pets and doorstep proselytism disappear — just like that. Provence works every time. And, this year, I want to do all the region’s Greatest Hits, simply because I’ve never done them before in one go. I shall start in Arles, fierce of sun, temper and festivity. Here, tight streets struggle to contain southern excess, which is either careering about, shouting and running late for life, or lolling outside a bar, smoking and drinking. There’s no middle way, or volume control. Cowboys from nearby Camargue gallop through when the occasion demands, and the women’s traditional dress is so pretty that one almost forgives folk-dancing. A taste for blood-sports persists at the mighty Roman arena, though I long ago grew tired of bull-fighting. I shall go, instead, to the central Place du Forum, where the Café Van Gogh has been redone to look as it did in Van Gogh’s 1888 Café Terrace at Night. Well, it’s been painted yellow — though the yellowness in the picture came from the lamplight, not the colour of the walls. (You can’t win them all; it causes apoplexy among online reviewers.) I shall take a table elsewhere — the square is crammed with them — then pursue Vincent to the Espace Van Gogh. This was once the hospital to which he committed himself after the ear-lopping episode. Now it’s a cultural centre, its courtyard garden
46
restored to how he saw it. It’s terribly peaceful, or would be, if it weren’t for American visitors screeching about how peaceful it is. Finally, I shall go to Place Lamartine, for the stretch of lethargic Rhône that VG painted as Starry Night, candles on his hat-brim for illumination. It’s a wistful experience, somehow enhanced by humming the Don McLean opus. Next day, up early for the chaotic Alpilles range, born apparently out of a dispute among deities. A tight crush of Medieval stone, Les Baux-de-Provence grows organically from the contours of one of the more noticeable outcrops. My plan is to get to the village early, because the rest of the world shows up later, often in coaches. No
I want crags, ravines and a sense of life lived hard for centuries wonder. Baux is sure-fire-hit material. The narrow streets concentrate visitors into pairs; many buildings are semi-troglodyte; and across the top are the remnants of the château where the medieval seigneurs of Baux sponsored both troubadours and the hurling of prisoners from the walls. There’s ample castle left to roam around, and the views over olives and vines capture many Provençal clichés in one eyeful. Predictably, the village has more than enough outlets selling gift-wrapped soap and lavender oil. Local councillors consider this a bad thing. I saw one on TV recently, saying how egregious were the effects of popular tourism. I wanted to chuck him over a castle wall. On to the Luberon, where the image of Provence goes soft-focus. The Luberon is no designer-holiday concept — it’s a 64km-long mountain, forested and wild. I’ve never seen anyone famous here, though I’m assured by Hello! magazine that they’re ubiquitous,
May 2015 World Traveller
47
Destinations Provence
48
May 2015 World Traveller
hiding in old houses done up for zillions. Villages such as Ménerbes, Bonnieux and Gordes, unravelling magnificently down its slopes, do have the intangible sheen of outside money. But at base, these are hard-stone hill settlements built on a hectic past. They’ve survived worse things than tourism. I shall drink coffee, revel in a beauty mellow and tough, then make for Mérindol, on the Luberon’s south side, where bloody Provençal stories break cover. A 20-minute slog up the mule-track is the ruined castle, which bears a plaque mentioning the ‘Vaudois’ and ‘1545’. In April of that year, the Vaudois, pre-Reformation Protestants, settled in the area and were massacred by the Catholic authorities. Some 20 villages were wiped out. It is, of course, daft to be affected by a 500-yearold slaughter but, back in the village, I shall require a Pastis, which some lady in some bar will provide with a sunny smile. Provençal ladies are good like that. I shall then proceed to Aix-en-Provence — but not, this time, for Cézanne. When you’ve just spent time in the hyper-coloured universe of Van Gogh, encountering Cézanne is like drawing the curtains. So I shall wander the main Cours Mirabeau — broad, tree-lined and studded with fountains, the thoroughfare bespeaks elegance. Aix’s sense of entitlement (it’s
I shall drink coffee and revel in a beauty mellow and tough been an academic’s and jurist’s centre since the 15th-century) is palpable. I shall take a seat at the Brasserie des Deux Garçons (incidentally Cézanne’s local) and be ignored. Waiters here seem to serve only between important missions — arms limitation talks, perhaps. Then I’ll nip up through the Medieval town to the St Sauveur Cathedral where, after a long restoration, Nicolas Froment’s magnificent 15th-century Burning Bush triptych is again on display. I’d swap it for 10 Cézannes but, then, I know little of art (or money). And so away, round the soaring slab of the Mont-Ste-Victoire (which Cézanne painted almost into submission) and along the plain to see Mary Magdalene. She’s in the crypt of the Gothic basilica that dominates the little town of St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume. She’s in three parts: her body in a sarcophagus, her skull in a reliquary and the strip of forehead touched by Christ in a tube in the wall. I once found myself in this crypt with a cleaning lady. ‘Is all this really Mary Magdalene?’ I asked. She reeled off the story of the Magdalene’s arrival in Provence from Palestine, her subsequent preaching, death and the discovery of her body in St-Maximin. I’ll spare you the details; they go on a bit. ‘Yes,’ I said. ‘But is it all true?’ ‘Of course,’ 49
Destinations Provence
Destination Dish Ratatouille This classic Provençal dish originated in Nice but is now found all over southeastern France. It is made using robust sunriped tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, onions, peppers and garlic, which are slowly stewed in olive oil and finished with thyme and parsley.
50
she said, and continued working. It is important to understand that Provençal people can contemplate such seismic phenomena (Mary Magdalene within dusting distance), then carry on cleaning. From here, it’s a hop into the hills — rugged little blighters, sprouting holm oaks and scrub — to Correns, where the Château Miraval and its grape estate are now owned by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. I visited it under its previous ownership. Then it had a recording studio where Pink Floyd completed The Wall. This turned me against the place, and I’m not going to get close enough this time to change my view (though I’m sure Brad is doing a fine job). The other worry about Correns is that everything grown and sold here is organic. I fear wild-eyed men wearing beards and sacking, living in trees and throwing sticks at me because I arrive in a car. Yet it’s as peaceful as can be and, whatever they’re doing to the soil, the wines from the Domaine-des-Aspras indicate that they’re doing something right. Later, I shall stop at Thoronet Abbey. Slotted into the forest beyond Carcès, this is the finest of Provence’s three Cistercian houses, and convincing evidence that not all medieval clerics were debauchees. Some clearly embraced the sublime. Listen to the guides, all accomplished singers, running through Salve Regina in the church, and you’ll see what I mean. Onwards for the Haut-Var, where hills and forest grow more challenging, and villages such as Villecroze and hilltop Tourtour have just ceded enough to tourism — but not that much. Spend time in Tourtour and you quickly note that the village remains defined by families, farming, festivities and feuds around the fountain. I shall drive on to Châteaudouble for lunch at La Tour restaurant on Place Beausoleil, its terrace peeking over the Châteaudouble gorges; drop your false teeth here and you’ll have to account them lost. I shall drink (a little) to steel myself for the terror of driving the edges of the 24km-long Verdon Gorges, further north. These are what Europe has instead of the Grand Canyon, falling 610m sheer in places. The void is sense-scrambling: last time I had a panic attack, gripping the wheel as if strangling it. But you’ll be stirred beyond measure by nature on a supernatural scale. Eventually, I shall exit the gorges (there’s no greater relief on God’s Earth) for a sip of something strong in Moustiers-Ste-Marie. Backed into a rockface that has apparently split under the pressure, this tangle of vaulted streets and tiny bridges is almost too pretty, and could usefully lose one or two of its pottery shops. The bars sell Cognac, mind, and that will be enough. Directly west, to the Valensole Plateau where, in July and early August, lavender and wheat come in waves. The ocean of blue and gold fills the senses with a dramatic purity. As usual I shall stop every 50m
May 2015 World Traveller
Where To Stay Arles, Aix & Mazan In Arles, check-in to the Jules César Hotel, renovated by Christian Lacroix in 2014 and a stone’s throw from Place de la Republique. In Aix, Renaissance Aix-enProvence Hotel features chic, contemporary interiors and cuisine by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Marc Banzo. In Mazan, don’t miss the Château de Mazan, which has 30 charming rooms and beautiful landscaped gardens. For more information visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.
Previous page: Verdon River running through the Canyon du Verdon. This page, clockwise from left: Sanary-sur-mer; lavender field in Provensole; oyster shells; Old advertising sign in Aix-enProvence; Decorative bicycle in front of a shop
because I can’t tear myself away. Later, I’ll drop into Forcalquier, where the landscape gets tougher again, in preparation for the Alps. This is a doughty old town, wrapping itself around the hillside, and producing Provence’s finest Pastis at the Henri Bardouin distillery. It’s significantly herbier than better-known brands. Just along the road at Limans, Brigitte and Joël Corbon produce splendid Banon cheese. And, as Banon is Provence’s best goat’s cheese I shall call in at their farm, La
The valley tightens to gorges, then opens to smudges of lavender Pourcine, before pushing across the uplands to Sault and more stirring stretches of lavender. From there, I should drive up the Mont Ventoux, which dominates this landscape. (Last year, pro cyclist Chris Froome sprinted up the 21km climb on a bike.) But my near-death experiences in the Verdon Gorges will have sated my appetite for mountain-edge excitement. So instead I’ll
head to the Toulourenc Valley, winding round the north of the mountain. I may be the only person who’s ever heard of it — noone’s there — and yet it’s wonderful. Beneath the damned great Ventoux, the valley tightens to gorges, then opens to smudges of lavender, farmland and farmsteads, with the burbling little river supplying the running commentary. I shall stop for a swim before heading south, edging the Dentelles-de-Montmirail hills. The French call them ‘dentelles’ because, like ‘lacework’, they are a little ragged. I shall crack on to Séguret, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, seductive wine villages all, offering what’s best of the southern Côtes du Rhône. I shall end up in Mazan, simply because the Château de Mazan is, perhaps, my favourite hotel in Provence. Rising above the unsung village like a cardinal among curates, it offers a rewarding welcome, decor veering from African to Asian art, via anything else the family owners have lit upon, and the food, gardens and pool are first-rate. I shall take to the terrace, order another bottle of grape and consider myself ‘otherwise engaged’ for the foreseeable future. 51
Destinations Europe
All
Aboard Travel in style on one of these eight great European railway journeys
52
May 2015 World Traveller
53
Destinations Europe
Glasgow to Mallaig, Scotland
Oslo to Bergen, Norway
A trip aboard the West Highland Line from Scotland’s largest city to one of its most scenic spots takes around 5hr 30min. Glasgow’s gritty urban landscapes soon make way for tranquil glens and lochs as the train trundles towards Fort William, passing Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak. Hugging the bank of Loch Eil, it then passes over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, immortalised in the Harry Potter films, continuing onto Mallaig. From here, you can take the ferry across to the magical Isle of Skye.
Boasting the highest altitude of any train route in Europe, this 500km-long line links Norway’s capital with its principal port. The seven-hour journey takes in some dazzling scenery, including the spectacular stretch over the Hardangervidda, Europe’s highest mountainous plateau. Building work started in 1875 and took 34 years and 15,000 men to complete, with the 182 tunnels carved by hand. Make time for a detour on the 20kmlong Flåm Railway, the steepest standardgauge railway in Europe with jaw-dropping views over Sognefjord.
54
León to Santiago de Compostela, Spain El Transcantábrico, which travels via Bilbao and Santander in the north of Spain, is billed as a five-star “cruise on rails” and is one of the most luxurious train journeys available in the world. Spain’s railways are notorious for their narrowgauge tracks, which make them tricky to navigate – so there are luxury excursions regularly scheduled to visit parts the train can’t reach. This 645km adventure ambles through countryside, small Spanish towns and the mountains of Asturias.
May 2015 World Traveller
Opening pages: The West Highland Line passes over the Glenfinnan Railway Viaduct. Clockwise from far left: Bergen Line; Luxury suite on El Transcantabrico; Loch Shiel, Glenfinnan; The Bernina Express on the Landwasser Viaduct; Onboard the Venice Simplon Orient Express.
London to Venice, via Paris From the buzz of London to the serenity of Venice in 32 glorious hours, via stops in Paris and Verona. Even the place names conjure up images of glamour and adventure, and the appointments in the Belmond British Pullman carriages of the legendary Venice-Simplon Orient Express will not disappoint. Brunch is served with a Bellini as the train steams out of London, and a four-course dinner prepared by skilled French chefs comes in the evening, before you roll into Venice late afternoon the following day.
Chur, Switzerland, to Tirano, Italy
Gloggnitz to Mürzzuschlag, Austria
Arguably the most scenic Alpine train ride train of all - although the Glacier Express is a worthy competitor – the narrow-gauge, Bernina Express runs from Chur and St Moritz in eastern Switzerland to Tirano, just across the border in northern Italy. The first highlight of the four-hour journey is near Filisur, where the train traverses the 65-metre-high Landwasser viaduct. The route continues through 55 tunnels and across 196 bridges, making short work of the steep gradients.
Named a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008, the Semmering railway in Austria is the quintessential mountain railway – and as it is widely considered to have been the first, literally setting the template for those to follow. Travelling daringly through tunnels and over viaducts across the mountains of east Austria, the line features over 100 bridges as it picks its way past gorgeous evergreens and snow-capped peaks. Best of all, the 45-minute journey can be undertaken all year round. 55
Destinations Europe
The Bernina Express continues through 55 tunnels and across 196 bridges
Nice to Digne les Bains, France There used to be four glorious Train des Pignes routes running through southern France. Today, there is only one left – this scenic, three-and-a-half hour amble from the Côte d’Azur through green fields and mountains, to the capital of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department. Each station along the route is suspended in time, decked out with vintage station clocks and flowerboxes lovingly maintained by the staff. The only nods to modernisation are the comfortable train carriages themselves. 56
Clockwise from right: The Venice Simplon Orient Express; Mountain views along the Oslo to Bergen route; Train de Pignes.
Offenburg to Konstanz, Germany Germany’s Black Forest is the stuff of fairy tales, quite literally – it was the setting and inspiration for the twisted fantasies of the Brothers Grimm. Climbing 650 meters vertically and covering a distance of 150 kilometers, the Black Forest Railway passes through pine forests and past rock faces and quaint villages. After leaving the small town of Offenburg, the train glides through pristine landscapes, endless tunnels and dense woodland, before finishing near the shores of Lake Constance (Konstanz).
May 2015 World Traveller
57
Destinations Venice
Secret Places in the City of
Canals Want to explore beyond the usual well-trodden routes of Venice? Anne Hanley offers pointers to some lesser-known treasures
58
May 2015 World Traveller
59
Destinations Venice
M
ost first–time visitors to Venice already know the great sights they want to visit: St Mark’s Square, the Doge’s Palace and the Rialto Bridge form the axis for crowds of day– trippers. But if you are staying longer, or are visiting for a second time, there are wonderful churches, museums and much quieter corners of the city to explore. In many ways, these offer a richer and more rewarding insight into the city and its history. Here are eight of the best...
Previous page: View from the Rialto Bridge. This page, clockwise from right: Rialto Bridge; Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni; Palazzo Grimani; Traditional lamps; St. Mark’s Square
Palazzo Grimani
San Zaccaria
The reopening in 2008 of this spectacular Renaissance palazzo after a 27–year restoration added an important site to Venice’s sightseeing map. This is one of the city’s great Renaissance private palazzos, its architecture, decoration and contents revealing the classical, antiquarian enthusiasms of the man responsible for its transformation in the mid–16th century, Cardinal Giovanni Grimani. Few of the statues that once adorned the space remain (most were moved to the Museo Archeologico in St Mark’s Square), but frescoes and stuccowork by artists such as Federico Zuccari have been well preserved. One of my favourite rooms is the Sala ai Fogliami, its ceiling a riot of lovingly observed flora and fauna. palazzogrimani.org
Few who alight or depart at the busy San Marco–San Zaccaria waterbus stop actually make it to the second of the churches in its name. Yet it would be a shame to miss this very Venetian wonder. It was begun in the prevailing Gothic style in the 1440s. By the time Mauro Codussi completed it 50 years later, the first stirrings of the Renaissance had reached the city, so it has ended up as a bit of a halfway house, but a charming one. The interior has two unmissable works of art – Giovanni Bellini’s masterful, harmonious Madonna and Four Saints, and the Tuscan artist Andrea del Castagno’s intensely human saints and putti on the ceiling vaults of the San Tarasio chapel, perhaps the greatest Florentine early Renaissance fresco that is not actually in Florence.
Vaporetto stop: San Marco or San
Vaporetto stop: San Zaccaria
Zaccaria
Palazzo Mocenigo
Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni
This 17th–century palazzo was for many years a dusty, rather dull museum of Venetian aristocratic life and costumes in the 17th and 18th centuries. But a few years ago, a theatrical set designer, Pier Luigi Pizzi, was called in to jazz things up: the result, unveiled in November 2013, is an entirely revamped visitors’ experience. The patrician interiors and furnishings are still there; so, too, is the display of opulent and outlandish dresses once worn by Venetian noblewomen. What’s new is a series of five rooms dedicated to multimedia displays of the history and science of spices and perfume in Venice, including a touch–screen scent–mixing activity. mocenigo.visitmuve.it
The scuole (schools) were part lay confraternities, part guilds, part charitable foundations that flourished in medieval and Renaissance Venice. Some were rooted in a craft or profession, others in an ethnic group. The city’s Dalmatian community built itself this guild headquarters at the beginning of the 16th century, and called on a local artist, Vittore Carpaccio, to decorate it with paintings narrating episodes from the life of Dalmatia’s three patron saints. I love the detail in these endlessly fascinating scenes, such as the elaborate turbans of the onlookers in The Triumph of St George. Much art in Venice is not child–friendly, but these action–packed canvases are an exception, inviting games of I–spy.
Vaporetto stop: San Stae
Vaporetto stop: San Marco or San Zaccaria
60
May 2015 World Traveller
61
Destinations Venice Clockwise from right: Ceiling artwork; Rialto Bridge; Spaghetti with clams; Moored gondolas; Piazza San Marco
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The Confraternity of St Roch was perhaps the grandest, and certainly the richest, of Venice’s many civic and charitable brotherhoods. It had so much spare cash it was able to build one of the most imposing confraternity headquarters in town – then hold a competition to decorate the building in 1560. Tintoretto won by impressing the selection committee with a finished painting rather than the required sketch. He worked on the project for the next 27 years, turning it into his artistic life’s work and, in the process, illustrating almost the entire Bible in a series of epic–scale canvases. Pick up the free leaflet and follow the order in which the 16th–century genius carried out the work, starting upstairs, in the Sala dell’Albergo, with the narrative complexity of a feature film. scuolagrandesanrocco.it
Vaporetto stop: San Tomà Torcello This is where it all started, back in the fifth century, when citizens of the Roman town of Altino on the mainland fled into the lagoon to escape barbarian invasions (Attila the Hun, it seems, was not much of a sailor). By the 14th century, Torcello was the most populous island on the lagoon, but the rival settlement of Venice, centred on the Rialto, soon gained the upper hand, and today this sleepy, rural island is a poignant witness to past glories. Two handsome 11th–century churches are among the few remnants of the years when it could have been a contender: the ancient Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, richly decorated with mosaics dating from between the ninth and the 12th centuries, and the austere Santa Fosca, a perfect, unadorned Greek–cross church.
Vaporetto stop: Torcello. To get there, take the number 12 waterbus from Fondamente Nove on the northern shore of Venice proper, and change on to the number 9 at Burano for the five–minute hop across to Torcello; calculate 50 minutes to an hour one way. 62
May 2015 World Traveller
Where To Stay Venice Located on the Grand Canal, yet off the main tourist drag, The Gritti Palace has 82 glorious rooms detailed with Murano glass chandeliers and gold-trimmed ceilings. Newly opened on its own private island, JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa has 250 chic rooms, a rooftop pool and the largest spa in town. To book, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.
Gondola rides on the cheap Through silken waters my gondola glides – and that’ll be €120, please. But although you would hardly call it a bargain, a ride in a gondola (for up to six people) is all part of the Venice visitor ritual. If you can’t afford such a hefty price tag, don’t forget that you can get a gondola ride for just €2 a head by taking one of the large traghetto (ferry) gondolas with two oarsmen that cross the Grand Canal at strategic points. I recommend a traghetti between Campo Santa Maria del Giglio (by The Gritti Palace hotel) and the church of La Salute (daily 9.30am–6pm), or San Samuele and Ca’ Rezzonico (Mon–Sat 8.30am–1.30pm). It’s de rigueur to do the crossing standing up, like the locals.
Ghetto Ebraico “Island Venice”, as the historic centre is often known, is, in fact, a whole cluster of islands – city blocks separated from each other by canals. Venice’s Jewish community, which had previously been spread around the city, was confined to one such urban island in 1516. It was referred to as the “Ghetto”. Still the centre of the city’s small Jewish community, this tranquil micro–district centred on the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo betrays little of the hardship of life here in former years, when the only way to expand was to build upwards, and families often had to sleep in turns. In the square, the Museo Ebraico (museoebraico.it) offers a good overview of the community’s history. It’s worth signing up for one of the daily guided tours (hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm in English and Italian). jvenice.org
Vaporetto stop: Guglie 63
Destinations Barcelona
Familia TERRITORY For their first ever mother-and-daughter trip abroad, British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman and journalist Drusilla Beyfus bonded among the sights of Gaudí’s Barcelona
64
Alexandra Shulman / Telegraph Magazine / The Interview People
May 2015 World Traveller
65
Destinations Barcelona
Point of information 1 ç My mother is 87 and is about to go on safari in South Africa. I am 57 and my only upcoming voluntary travel destination (ie, not for business) is Dundee. As the cab drove us to Heathrow Mum and I realised that we had never taken a holiday abroad together. We had holidayed as a family when I was a child (although never outside England), and recently she has joined me on trips I have organised with groups of friends and family. But just the two of us? Never. We had easily agreed on Barcelona as our destination. I had mooted Stockholm as an alternative as I am a huge fan of Scandinavian design but Mum was sold on Barcelona, which neither of us had visited and which we hoped would have the advantage of October warmth. Sitting on the plane I realised how unused I had become to arriving in a foreign city without someone else to manoeuvre me around. When I travel for work (in the past few months New York, San Francisco, Paris and Milan) I shuttle around like a clockwork mouse on a meticulously organised itinerary, and on holiday my boyfriend David spends hours with guidebooks planning what we will see and how we will get there. As we flew over France I saw my mother bending forward, clearly in pain. It took some time before I could prise out of her that a few days earlier she had fallen from a chair while trying to mend a fuse in her flat, and had hurt her back. ‘Why on earth didn’t you tell me?’ I snapped. ‘Because you’d say we shouldn’t go to Barcelona,’ she replied, no doubt accurately. After landing we crawled through Londonstyle traffic to the centre of the city, past the incredible terraced cemetery on the motorway, past the statue of Columbus in Plaça del Portal de la Pau, and on to the long Via Laietana, the site of our hotel, the Grand Central. Dumping our bags, we headed out into the sunshine.
Point of information 2 ç My mother walks 2-3 miles almost every day in London. I regularly take taxis a quarter of that distance. Although I regard walking as an overrated activity I had decided that we would do Barcelona her way and walk as much as we 66
May 2015 World Traveller
Destination Dish Paella The ubiquitous rice dish was originally a labourers’ meal, cooked over an open fire in the fields of Valencia and eaten directly from the pan using wooden spoons. Traditionally made with chicken, rabbit, duck or snails and flavoured with saffron, today there are many variations including chicken and seafood.
could. Everybody had told me it was the perfect city to wander around, and even I know that you never really get a feel for a place from the inside of a cab. We had been given a hit list of what to see by my 19-yearold son Sam, who loves Barcelona and is no slouch on history of art, and this provided the basic structure for our days. First off that afternoon was the neighbouring Museu Picasso. Looking at the incredible figurative portraits Picasso painted of his family when he was 15, it made such sense that by middle age he needed to portray the human body in a radically different way. The Barcelona rooftops of his Blue Period, the views from his studio in Cannes and the small sepia sketches were all an uplifting start to the trip. Memories of forced childhood cultural exhibitions had made me worry that Mum would want to spend much longer looking at everything than I, but surprisingly we shared a similar time frame. Afterwards we peered in the windows of shops selling delicious-looking hams and cheeses, sinister carnival masks and dolls, and inexpensive shoes.
Point of information 3 ç My mother is completely averse to medication, whereas I am never happier than with a prescription in my hand. After both the flight and a few hours’ sightseeing I urged her to take at least a Nurofen when we got back to the hotel. She said she would if she had to; I knew she wouldn’t.
Opening page: Grand Hotel Central Barcelona. Left: La Pedrera. Next page, clockwise from top left: Port Vell marina; A local tapas spot; Tapas; Colourful mosaic in Park Güell.
That evening we rendezvoused for a drink on the rooftop of the hotel, beside an illuminated swimming pool that switched from turquoise to purple to pink. My only advance research had been on restaurants, since nothing is more dispiriting than wandering around a city looking for somewhere last-minute to eat. Yolanda, my counterpart at Spanish Vogue, had provided a tip list and so we headed off to Boca Grande, described by Yolanda as ‘a place one should go’. And she was right. The vast but cosy mirrored room with turtle shells on the walls and beautifully lit shelves of bottles was immediately welcoming and elegant. We had our first of many platters of jamón ibérico and the trademark dish of dry bread soaked in an oily fresh tomato paste. My mother is a great cook, informed by a delight in good ingredients that came
in part from being a war teenager and then discovering Elizabeth David. Boca Grande more than passed muster. The next day we walked 13km, which I know only because I discovered a fitness app that automatically acts as a pedometer had appeared on my iPhone’s last update. Like every tourist we headed to Antoni Gaudí’s Sagrada Família, the monumental church that was his love letter to Catalonia, restricting ourselves to viewing it from outside rather than queuing for hours to get in.
Point of information 4 ç My mother cares more about her appearance than I. Given that my working life is spent among fashionable clothes, my idea of relaxation is to put on the most comfortable things I can find and forget about how I look. My mother would never do this and is renowned for her style. Fortified by espresso in my case and fresh lemonade in Mum’s, we continued to La Pedrera, Gaudí’s undulating apartment block. There among his surreal roofscape chimneys I Instagrammed Mum against the clear cobalt sky that matched her scarf, provoking a storm of compliments on her appearance from around the world. In the afternoon we hiked up the hillside to Gaudí’s Park Güell to see his warped stone pavilions and carved stone trees. That night we dined at 7 Portes near the harbour,
Yolanda, my counterpart at Spanish Vogue, had provided a tip list a restaurant famous for its traditional, formal style. The fava beans, my mother pronounced, were certainly tinned. Although neither of us is a great breakfast eater we arranged to meet in the hotel restaurant to plan our next full day. Following a successful first day on holiday is a little like second books and second albums – slightly tricky. Over coffee I tried to help solve a problem Mum was having with her phone. ‘You’re not listening to me,’ I said, exasperated by her endless peering at the screen. ‘No. I’m not,’ she replied calmly. ‘Well, that’s annoying,’ I continued 67
Destinations Barcelona
Where To Stay City Centre Centrally located in the Gothic Quarter, Grand Hotel Central features historic architecture, minimalist dĂŠcor and an inďŹ nity pool with wonderful city views. Meanwhile, ABaC Restaurant & Hotel is an intimate boutique property with just 15 sleek rooms and a double Michelinstarred restaurant. For more information visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.
68
May 2015 World Traveller
We meandered down the broad La Rambla with its cafes, live sculptures and artists
unhelpfully. ‘Well, it was annoying that you didn’t listen to me when I was telling you that your explanation wasn’t working,’ she pointed out. This kind of interchange was exactly what I had wanted to avoid, it being too reminiscent of the kind of conversation I so often have with my own child. Since it was Sunday much of the city was closed and we meandered through the streets and down the broad La Rambla with its cafes, live sculptures and artists painting tourist portraits to reach the marina and the sea. The previous evening I had gone for a run along the beach and thought we should lunch there the next day. It was still warm enough for the Platja de Sant Sebastià to be covered with picnicking couples and sunbathers, and the boardwalk was a joyful crowd of children and skateboarders, promenading families and promises of jugs of sangria. Having spent the previous day exploring Gaudí we both loved just sitting
at a wooden shack on the beach picking at more ham and tomatoes and, in my case, drinking an icy Spanish hops. As a doting grandmother, Mum was determined we pay attention to my son’s directives and visit Santa Maria del Mar, the seamen’s church he had suggested unmissable. We strolled there through the paths of the Parc de la Ciutadella with its monumental fountain and emerald lake. That evening we had a delicious dinner of roast chicken and tapas at the communal tables of Cuines Santa Caterina, a restaurant in a restored warehouse recommended by the hotel reception, revelling in how much we had enjoyed our first ever 72 hours alone together.
Point of information 5 ç My mother has almost total recall and I do not. It is quite possible that she would not remember our trip like this at all. 69
Destinations Iconic Caribbean
Geological wonders Most people’s mental picture of the Caribbean is sandy beaches with waves gently lapping at palm trees on the shore - and that’s incredibly accurate. St Lucia has some lovely beaches, both golden in the north and silvery in the volcanic south, although they’re almost upstaged by the photogenic Pitons. Rising majestically from the sea, the two volcanic spires near the town Soufrière on the west coast were inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2004. 70
May 2015 World Traveller
Iconic
Caribbean As close to paradise as it’s possible to ďŹ nd, the Caribbean is home to some amazing sights
71
Destinations Iconic Caribbean
Abundant wildlife For those of an active bent, getting out and exploring the forests and waters of the Caribbean will reveal unbelievable natural treasures. Along with dolphins, whales and turtles, there are over a hundred species of birds, as well as lizards, monkeys, jaguars, pumas, butteries, lizards, sloths and even crocodiles and snakes.
Bright beach huts Rainbow coloured beach huts abound in the Caribbean, like these ones in the Dominican Republic. Each house is painted a vibrant hue, making the towns a riot of energy, and catching the light beautifully as the sun sets each day. The huts tend to be raised on short stilts to offer some protection against ooding caused by hurricanes.
72
May 2015 World Traveller
Vintage cars The Caribbean is made up of over 700 islands, islets and cays, each with its own unique personality. Cuba, the largest island, lies just 83 miles from Key West, Florida, and is famous for its classic American cars. Fords, Pontiacs and Chevys from the 1950s became regular sights on the streets of Havana after the Communist government banned car imports in 1959, although restrictions were relaxed in 2013.
Cricket The British imported cricket to the Caribbean at the beginning of the 19th century. Military officials established clubs in the colonies of the British West Indies, including The Bahamas, Barbados, and Trinidad and
Tobago, although inter-island competitions were played almost exclusively by whites. By the mid-1970s, the West Indian team, known as The Windies, ruled the cricket world in imperious style, and were known for their exhilarating,
stroke-making batsmen; penetrative, wicket-taking bowlers and dynamic, athletic ďŹ elders. While perhaps not as dominant as it once was, you’re still likely to stumble along a lively game of beach cricket during your visit. 73
Find a FUN new perspective on the
this
atch
Price m
May 2015 World Traveller
Weekends
Two days is still plenty of time to travel 76 Wellness retreats and local eats 78 Tick these off your bucket list 83 Abu Dhabi’s musical month 85 Escape to a Dubai hotel
75
Weekends News
Kuwait for it
There are plenty of exciting escapes to be found in the upand-coming state
Get Well Soon Mindfulness can be reached at these luxurious retreats Anantara Spa, Banana Island Doha Hideaway in a luxurious overwater spa suite and let the Anantara experts take you on a path to supreme wellbeing that draws on Arabia’s enriching natural and cultural wonders, as well as precious health and beauty ideals from around the world. WT heartily recommends a replenishing full-body scrub.
Deir al Oumara, Lebanon Refreshing and relaxing, your health deserves a yoga vacation and this wellness retreat in Lebanon aims to provide just that. Over the four-day retreat you’ll thrive on alkaline-nutritious food, take in hikes, walks and rides on horseback, and spend sunrise and sunset meditating over stunning mountain views.
The Regency Kuwait This boutique/design hotel is arguably Kuwait’s most luxurious, and is proudly managed in compliance with Islamic Sharia traditions. It has managed to find the absolute pick of beaches along the Arabian Gulf Sea, and as well as access to two beaches has a matchless five pools – one of which is secluded to ladies. theregencykuwait.com
Al Manshar Rotana Hotel
Symphony Style Hotel Kuwait
For those looking for a shopping getaway, this opulent venue is part of the Al Manshar shopping and entertainment complex. The hotel offers 200 luxurious rooms, but the real star is the shopping centre, which is renowned for its cosmetics and beauty ranges, as well as luxury fashion stores. rotana.com
A jewel in the heart of Kuwait City, Symphony Style Hotel has 18 floors of glorious contemporary design mixed with touches of luxury and Kuwaiti hospitality. Highlights include the Italian restaurant Cucina, Luna restaurant and lounge and the mouthwatering Chococafé for afternoon treats. quorvuscollection.com
Station Retreat, Seychelles This boutique resort has just six rooms and a villa, and its guests are all united by one thing: a love of nature and a desire to reconnect with themselves as well as the natural world. The signature eight-day Yoga Retreat encompasses plenty of meditation sessions outdoors, as well as delicious and nutritious on-site cuisine.
COMO Shambhala, Maldives COMO Shambhala specialises in handson healing, combining traditional Eastern techniques with cuttingedge advances in holistic healthcare. They offer facials for restorative skincare and authentic Ayurvedic programmes, many of which employ home-made COMO Shambhala products. 76
The Grand Getaway Dubai As summer starts to heat up, escape the city by taking advantage of Meydan Hotels’ “Great Escape” packages. Starting at just AED 490 per room per night at both Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa and The Meydan Hotel, guests can design their own getaway from a range of experiences like desert safaris, camel and horse
riding, falconry shows, archery, tennis, golf and of course a huge array of world-class restaurants. To activate your great escape, visit meydanhotels. com/theGreatEscape Terms and conditions apply. Rates are subject to 10% service charge, 10% municipality fee, and Tourism Dirham Fee of AED 20 per room per night.
May 2015 World Traveller
Diners’ Delight
Jumeirah Restaurant Week 2015 is coming to Dubai and Abu Dhabi Those of a gastronomic leaning will have plenty of excuses to get out and explore Dubai and Abu Dhabi this month, as Jumeirah Restaurant Week (May 14-23) encourages visitors and locals to re-discover their favourite restaurants and sample over 40 menus. In Dubai, participating restaurants include Pierchic, The Rib Room and Burj Al Arab’s Al Iwan, while Abu Dhabi offers restaurants at Jumeirah Beach Hotel and Jumeirah at Etihad Towers. Prices start at just AED 120, ranging up to AED 370 per person at some of the signature restaurants. For a complete list of restaurants and menus, visit jumeirahrestaurantweek.com
77
Weekends Six Of The Best
SIX OF THE BEST
BUCKET LIST IDEAS Looking to create memories that will last a lifetime? Tick these off one by one
1.
Scale the Burj Khalifa Dubai is a fast-paced city that’s always demanding more, more and more – so it’s no surprise to find the world’s tallest building dominating the Downtown skyline. With 163 floors reaching to almost a kilometre above ground level, the sight of the rest of Dubai’s skyscrapers far below is truly epic when viewed from the “At The Top” observation deck.
1. 78
May 2015 World Traveller
2.
Float in the Dead Sea One bucket-list staple that appears on lists worldwide happens to be on our very front door – aren’t we lucky? Travellers from across the globe make their way to Jordan to enjoy the eerie sensation of floating effortlessly in the water, which has an abnormally high salt content. It’s the closest thing to floating that nonastronauts will ever feel, and the black mineral mud is also a skincare wonder-product.
2.
3.
Visit the Great Pyramid at Giza Khufu was the son of Snefru, and the second ruler of the fourth Egyptian dynasty. He enslaved his people to create the largest pyramid ever built, which incorporated a mind-boggling 2.3 million stone blocks, each weighing between 2.5 and 15 tonnes each. Inside, there are three burial chambers, including mysterious shafts that scholars believe were designed to allow Khufu to move through in the afterlife.
3. 79
Weekends Six Of The Best
4.
Marvel at the Taj Mahal From royalty to A-list celebrities, everyone wants to recreate the famous picture on the bench in front of the Taj Mahal. The world’s most recognisable mausoleum is now an enduring icon of the beauty of India, and attracts millions of visitors a year. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his third wife, but is now seen as the jewel of Muslim architecture in India.
80
May 2015 World Traveller
5.
See the Acropolis The UAE may have a proud history, but it’s got nothing on ancient Greece. The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located high above the city, and contains ruins from buildings of scarcely believable historical signiďŹ cance. Buildings like the Parthenon, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike have stood since 500BC, and the region is a must for anybody with an interest in history.
5.
6.
Explore the ancient city of Petra Half built, half carved into the gargantuan rock faces between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, Petra is one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites. The caravan city has been continually inhabited since prehistoric times, and is an endless maze of elaborate tomb and temple architecture surrounded by mountains riddled with passages and gorges.
4.
6. 81
Weekends World Traveller
Cityof Music This month, the Bait Al Oud concert series aims to preserve Arabic music by teaching new generations the beauty of these ancient instruments.
Bait Al Oud was established in 2008 as an authentic Arabic musical institution, which looks to preserve the popularity of ancient instruments like the oud and the ganoun. Throughout May, a lively and spiritual concert series of instrumental and vocal music will be presented at Manarat Al Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island and Al Qattara Arts Centre in Al Ain, presented by a new generation of talented students and recently graduated musicians from Bait Al Oud. Also, from May 7-13, the Abu Dhabi International Book Fair celebrates its 25th Silver Jubilee edition. The region’s fastestgrowing book fair will see more than half a million titles on display during this vibrant celebration of literature, further cementing Abu Dhabi’s place as the heart of culture in the region. 82
10 YEARS OF FLYING HIGH IN UAE! Experience a different Dubai with Balloon Adventures )QMVEXIW 3JJIVMRK HEMP] WYRVMWI 他MKLXW SZIV XLI (YFEM desert with views to the breathtaking sunrise and untouched nature. Our European pilots have over 60 years of combined 他]MRK I\TIVMIRGI ERH SYV 他IIX MRGPYHIW WSQI SJ XLI largest balloons in the world. www.ballooning.ae 04 285 4949 / info@ballooning.ae #ballooningUAE / #ballooningDubai
THE LUXURY OF A HOTEL WITH THE COMFORTS OF HOME Enjoy panoramic views over the sparkling coastline and stunning cityscape at Fraser Suites Dubai. With award-winning service and extensive gold-standard facilities including swimming pools, steam & sauna, Kid’s Club, tennis & squash courts; conference rooms that can cater up to 200 delegates; relaxed dining in Aqua Café and the exclusive Awazen Spa - Fraser Suites Dubai has it all.
FRASER SUITES DUBAI - Sheikh Zayed Road, Media City, Dubai, UAE Reservations: +971 4 440 1400 Email: reservations.dubai@frasershospitality.com
Look us up. Wherever you are at m.frasershospitality.com
Dubai’s Leading Serviced Apartments
May 2015 World Traveller
The
Great
Escape
The Oberoi, Dubai I’m planning a city break… The Oberoi, Dubai is a great choice. Overlooking the Burj Khalifa, and minutes from buzzy Downtown Dubai and The Dubai Mall, the hotel has 252 luxurious rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, elegant décor and 24-hour butler service.
I’ll be travelling with my family, too… You’re in luck. The hotel has recently launched its twobedroom suites that are ideal for families. Spanning over 200
square metres, the suites come with a grand master bedroom, living room, dining room for six people, Italian marble bathrooms and private balcony.
What are the dining options like? There are three different restaurants that cater to all tastes. Fine dining restaurant Ananta serves outstanding modern Indian cuisine (the thali is not to be missed). Umai specialises in contemporary Asian cuisine, while the all-day dining space, Nine7One, serves Arabic, Asian and Western
cuisine. It also plays host to the World Tapas Brunch every Friday.
AT A GLANCE Fast facts about The Oberoi, Dubai
I’m also looking for great leisure facilities…
ç All suites come with a huge
No problem. After a busy day’s shopping, retreat to The Oberoi Spa, which offers an extensive menu of Ayurvedic treatments and massages including aromatherapy, Balinese, Swedish, Shiatsu and Thai. There’s also an outdoor infinity pool, 24-hour gymnasium and complimentary daily yoga classes. oberoihotels.com
private balcony with views of the spectacular Burj Khalifa
ç Every guest enjoys the convenience of in-room check-in and 24-hour butler service
ç There’s complimentary high-speed WiFi and free scheduled transfers to The Dubai Mall
85
Weekends dnata Offers
WORLD TRAVELLER
Weekend Reader Offers
Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa
Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah
UAE Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi Yas Island 2 nights from USD177 per person Special offer: 1 child under 12 years old stays, eats and plays for free plus 1 complimentary extra bed and receive a complimentary Yas Two Park Pass (Yas Waterpark and Ferrari World) Includes: Stay in a superior room with breakfast daily Validity: May 15–Sep 14, 2015
UAE Radisson Blu Hotel, Yas Island Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD50 per person Special offer: 36% room rate reduction and up to 2 kids under 12 stay and eat for free plus stay for 4 nights and pay for 3bedroom suite - City View room with breakfast daily Includes: Stay in a standard room including breakfast Validity: May 1–Sep 30, 2015
UAE Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa 1 night from USD96 per person Special offer: 20% room rate reduction plus receive complimentary room upgrade from Superior to Deluxe Room and AED100 spa credit per person per stay Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: Jun 1-Sep 30, 2015* *Book by Jun 30, 2015 86
UAE Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD90 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction plus receive complimentary upgrade to Half Board (dinner) Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily Validity: May 1-Sep 30, 2015
UAE DAMAC Maison Dubai Mall Street 1 night from USD113 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and pay for 2. Complimentary upgrade to next room type. 35% discount on all SPA treatments. 1 session of Flotation at Chrysalis SPA per guest. Guaranteed complimentary late checkout til 4pm. Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in 1 bedroom suite - City View room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until Sep 20, 2015* *Black out dates: Jul 17-22, 2015
DAMAC Maison
UAE Jumeirah Living World Trade Centre Residence 3 nights from USD250 per person* Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free* Includes: Stay in a 2 bedroom apartment including breakfast daily Validity: May 1-Jun 30, 2015 *Rate is based on 4 adults sharing
UAE Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi 5*
Oman Salalah Rotana Resort
1 night from USD90 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to the next room category and late check-out till 3PM plus receive 50% discount on Spa treatments and 25% discount on F&B Includes: Stay in Marina Room with breakfast daily Validity: May 1-Sep 30, 2015
1 night from USD143 per person Special offer: 15% room rate reduction plus 15% discount on food and beverage and spa treatments Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: Jul 16-Aug 28, 2015 Book by: Jun 30
UAE The St. Regis Abu Dhabi 1 night from USD97 per person Special offer: 20% room rate reduction, upgrade to Superior Sea View room, Upgrade to Half Board, 20% discount on Remede Spa, Additional special offer stay 7 and pay 6 nights Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: May 21-Sep 30, 2015*
Oman Crowne Plaza Resort Salalah 1 night from USD74 per p erson Special offer: 24% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Standard Garden View Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until Jul 13, 2015
May 2015 World Traveller Promotion
WIN! Sun Siyam Iru Fushi, Maldives Win two nights’ accommodation in a Beach Villa with bed and breakfast at the stunning Sun Siyam Iru Fushi, Maldives. Iru Fushi promises a simpler existence made possible by harnessing the incredible beauty of nature. It invites you to discover, learn and connect at the incredible 15 different dining or drinking venues, or by simply laying back on the white sands and enjoying the sun on your skin. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer this question: How many dining and drinking options are there at the resort? A) 14 B) 15 C) 7 Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com by May 31, 2015. Travel period: June 1 until November 30, 2015. Blackout period: September 27 to October 12, 2015. Terms and conditions apply.
Value, Trust & Convenience
3 * 2 , ( (. * . !" % + *(& ! .*(% , ( (* (' 1 ",+- "+!" "++ ' (0(, (%$+/ ' 3 *+ + '+ -++ + *- $+ . "% % (* !(*, , *& * ', %+ (' , *& % +"' 3 * + ', "' (. * %( ,"('+ "' ,! "' %- "' %% "*)(*,+ & #(* +!())"' & %%+ * ,* 1(' + !(, %+ (/',(/'
CALL: 8004770 800701 Dubai & Northern Emirates Abu Dhabi & Al Ain
w w w. t h r i ft yuae.c om
87
Weekends Suite Dreams
Suite Dreams
What: Table Mountain Suite Where: One&Only, Cape Town About: It’s easy to see how this stunning suite got its name – the views of South Africa’s landmark Table Mountain are breathtaking, either from the tub or the bay windows found elsewhere in the 316-squaremetre suite. Dramatic African artwork accentuates the foyer, parlour and dining room, and the suite also has its own executive office. The view can also be taken advantage of from the magnificent terrace, where the suite’s private chef is happy to provide meals. For families, an inter-leading suite can be arranged, which contains two queen-sized beds. oneandonlyresorts.com 88
FUN FOR ALL
Enjoy three months of entertainment and fun for all the family at this year's Abu Dhabi Summer Season in Abu Dhabi city, Al Ain and the Western Region. Bringing together star-studded concerts and international performances by leading artists, superb comedy acts, world famous children's shows combined with the best summer special deals in hotels, malls and attractions across Abu Dhabi. Make sure you are part of the fun this summer, there's more to the emirate-wide festivities than ever before.
Presented by:
@abudhabievents
#ADsummer
800 555 abudhabisummerseason.ae