World Traveller - February'20

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 142 | FEBRUARY 2020 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

SPAIN MAURITIUS STAYCATIONS READER OFFERS

STAR QUALITY

Holiday like the A-list in Baja California

CITIES WE

LOVE

From action-packed Tokyo to the cultural gems of Cairo, our in-the-know locals shine a light on eight urban beauties you must visit

The drive of your life

Chasing thrills on Oman’s remote Route 66

Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.

A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms, one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com *Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.

Welcome note

Hearing other people's travel stories – whether it's clued-up locals sharing the hidden gems of their homeland, a travel writer's poetic tale of discovery in exotic climes, or words of wisdom from eminent explorers, such as Sir Ranulph Fiennes –

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Group Content Director Faye Bartle faye@hotmedia.me Content & Social Editor Hayley Kadrou Content Writer Habiba Azab habiba@hotmedia.me

is a sure-fire way to ignite wanderlust. This issue is packed with first-person travel stories that will have you reaching for your passport. For our cover story, we called upon the expert insight of eight savvy locals to tell us how to explore their home city from a fresh perspective (p26).

Also, inside this issue, let our featured travel writers open your eyes to a different side of Spain, by trundling through Asturias on an old narrowgauge railway (p38), the starry allure and wild beauty of the vast Mexican peninsula of Baja California (p44), and the rugged appeal of driving along Oman’s remote Route 66 (p50).

Speaking of which, there's plenty of adventure to be had on the doorstep. We shine a light on some of the top hotels and resorts in the region that are ideal for teaming activities under the winter sun with a touch of luxury.

Happy travels, Faye Bartle

Editorial Assistant Ronak Sagar

FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE: 1

When the colourful train crosses the mystical Nine Arch Bridge, you know you're in Ella, p8

2

You should always notify your bank before you travel, so your holiday spends don't get flagged as suspicious, p22

3

When in Mauritius, be sure to taste dholl puri – the traditional flatbread filled with spicy ground split peas is a must-try, p56

4

You can't wander along the beaches of Ras Al Jinz after dark, due to efforts to protect endangered green turtles, p50

5

Art Director Kerri Bennett

The Grand Egyptian Museum, set to open this year, will be the largest museum in the world dedicated to a single civilisation, p26

Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmedia.me Production Manager Muthu Kumar INSPIRED BY

Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media is strictly prohibited.

HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

COVER IMAGE iStock by Getty Images

Find us at…

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme TWITTER @WTravellerME

worldtravellermagazine.com 3

THIS IS WHAT YOU CALL A RESORT. 25 WORLD-CLASS DINING OUTLETS JAresorts.com

40 EXHILARATING ACTIVITIES

Contents February 2020

13

Cempedak Private Island

GLOBETROTTER

regulars 08

13

GLOBETROTTER

22

THE KNOWLEDGE

70

DIGITAL DOWNLOAD

72

This month's go-to places include the charming Ella in Sri Lanka and the UK's scenic Lake District.

Lush private islands; romantic retreats and fabulous new hotels on the radar. Plus, Ranulph Fiennes shares his thirst for adventure.

Get savvy about the various ways in which to organise your money while travelling, including common pitfalls to avoid.

Head online for exclusive travel content and, better yet, the chance to win a stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort.

Revel in the tropical sophistication and laid-back luxury of the Junior Suite at California's Parker Palm Springs.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

SUITE DREAMS

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

CONTENTS

features

26

38

44

50

Our locals on the ground help us get under the skin of these eight urban hotspots that beg discovery.

Andrew Eames discovers another side of Spain, trundling through Asturias on an old narrow-gauge railway.

The vast Mexican peninsula of Baja California has starry associations and stylish new digs.

Mike MacEacheran takes his mum on a memory-making road trip along Oman’s remote Route 66.

CITIES WE LOVE

THE TRAIN IN SPAIN

DOWN MEXICO WAY

SANDS OF TIME

Cactus in Cataviña

44

BAJA CALIFORNIA

weekends 56

62

STAYCATIONS

66

Let this idyllic island cast a spell with its wondrous treasures.

Feel in need of a break?

We have a couple more reasons to book a weekend escape.

It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers.

A LONG WEEKEND IN MAURITIUS

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TRAVEL OFFERS

Connoisseur of Rare and Boutique Experiences The St. Regis Abu Dhabi merges the authentic Arabian hospitality with more than a hundred years of bespoke St. Regis tradition and is ideally located at the lavish coastline of West Corniche. Situated between the 33rd and 49th floors, each of the hotel’s 228 guestrooms and 55 suites enchant with the finest materials and magnificent views of the Arabian Gulf and the UAE capital, while it offers the signature St. Regis Butler service to all guests. The hotel is home to the world’s highest suspended suite located 220 metres above sea level, a beach club of 200 metre private sandy beach and a spacious swimming pool, a children’s club, one of the UAE’s largest spas, as well as six distinctive restaurants and lounges catering to all tastes.

©2020 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

TRENDING DESTINATIONS Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month

Ella

When the colourful Sri Lankan train winds its way across the Nine Arch Bridge, you know you’re in Ella. Tucked between misty rainforests and lush tea plantations, this quaint village charms nature lovers and adventure seekers alike with its idyllic green hills and epic waterfalls. Take a hike on Little Adam’s Peak and Ella Rock for incredible views, or set off in search of waterfalls – don't miss the roaring Diyaluma Falls, the second tallest in the country.

Highlights 1 Sip a refreshing cup of tea at Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory, where you can meander through lush, green tea gardens and savour your own distinct brew. 2 Steeped in local folklore, Ravana's Cave (which can be found by Ravana Falls) is a tough climb, but once inside you can marvel at its architectural brilliance. 3 Master the art of preparing a delightful Sri Lankan meal at Ella Spice Garden, where you can select your ingredients fresh from the ground.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Medellin

Known as the ‘City of Eternal Spring’ for its year-round temperate weather, Medellin is fast becoming a tourist favourite. No matter where you go, you’re surrounded by stunning natural landscapes courtesy of the striking Andes Mountains. Colourful buildings dot the hillsides of Comuna 13, famous for its vibrant murals and food markets, whereas the affluent El Poblado neighbourhood is home to chic cafés, high-end restaurants and exciting nightlife.

Highlights 1 Admire the creative artwork of Colombia’s best-loved sculptor, Fernando Botero, at Antioquia Museum.

2 Take your little ones on a scientific adventure at Explora Park, an interactive science museum that's home to South America’s largest freshwater aquarium. 3. Football fan or not, join the rambunctious fans at a fútbol match at Atanasio Girardot Stadium and get into the spirit of the cultural obsession with this competitive game.

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The Lake District

Tourists flock from all over the world to visit the Lake District National Park – the largest national park in the UK and a UNESCO World Heritage Site – for its spectacular scenery, wildlife and historic links to wordsmiths. Time your visit from January to March and admire the beautiful lakes and fells while discovering pretty villages dotted with local shops and rustic restaurants, with live music and delicious food made from fresh local produce.

Highlights 1 Say "hello" to Peter Rabbit in Mr McGregor's garden, find your way to Jemima Puddle-Duck and call on Mrs. Tiggy-Winkle in her kitchen at The World of Beatrix Potter. 2 Follow your nose to the delicious aromas wafting from the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop and splash your cash on a variety of drool-worthy ginger-themed nibbles. 3 Take a road trip back in time by checking out Lakeland Motor Museum, which is home to 30,000 exhibits that trace the development of road transport throughout the 20th century.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Cairo

This year is tipped as the best time to visit Cairo, with The Grand Egyptian Museum – the largest museum in the world dedicated to a single civilisation – set to open in 2020. The wealth of historic ruins and monuments are guaranteed to take you back to ancient times, while the city centre bustles with that energetic, modern big city vibe. Treasure-filled souks, grand hotels, picturesque cruises along the Nile and streets brimming with restaurants await discovery.

Highlights 1 Bask in the city's rich history and wind your way through historical Islamic buildings while haggling for antiques, artisan accessories, ornate perfumes and traditional clothing at Khan el-Khalili. 2 Sway to the beat of traditional music at El Mastaba Center for Egyptian Folk Music. 3 See everyday city life through the eyes of those who experienced the 20th century Egyptian Art Movement at Al Masar Gallery, located on the first floor of Baehler's Mansion.

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C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

XXXXXXXXXXXXX

FEBRUARY

Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there

BAMBOO MADNESS Here, you can experience sustainable living at its best. Built almost entirely from natural materials – note the clever use of recycled teak, local rock and bamboo – Cempedak Private Island in Bintan seamlessly blends into the island's rich flora and fauna with its eco-friendly fabulousness, without sacrificing an ounce of style. Add a magical array of wildlife, including adorable sea otters, oriental pied hornbills and pangolin (a highly-endangered species) and you've got yourself the perfect exotic escape. worldtravellermagazine.com 13

GLOBETROTTER

Born to explore Celebrated explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes tells us what it takes to set off in search of adventure British explorer Ranulph Fiennes has led upwards of 30 expeditions, raising over £18.9 million for charity. Despite almost dying countless times and losing nearly half his fingers to frostbite, the world’s greatest living explorer (according to the Guinness Book of Records) is unstoppable.

“My team and I have often found ourselves in trouble on expeditions, despite always planning for the worst case scenario,” reveals Fiennes, who was the first person to reach both the North Pole and the South Pole overland and to cross the Antarctic Continent unsupported with Mike Stroud. “The best advice I've been given is to be prepared by travelling with the right kit. In a hot desert climate, this can be as simple as having an anti-itch cream to hand in case you get stung by a hornet."

For the man who has undertaken fascinating journeys in Arabia, including discovering the Lost City of Ubar, staying calm is all in the training. “Some people are inclined to not flap – they're born that way," he says. "These are the people we would choose to join us on expeditions. We look at character and motivation first and foremost, as the specialist skills can be taught.”

“As I get older, my ability to climb to new altitudes wanes, but I have a fair few ambitions remaining,” he continues. “My expedition group doesn’t like announcing anything in case we get pipped to the post, but I can reveal that our attention is turning north rather than south.

Records will continue to be broken and there will always be someone else hot on my heels but I have no problem with that.”

Ranulph Fiennes is taking part in the Emirates Airline Festival of Literature (4-9 February) in Dubai, emirateslitfest.com

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THE ELEPHANT OUTSIDE THE ROOM If glamping under Thailand's starlit skies while watching majestic elephants stroll by is your idea of holiday goals, then the Jungle Bubble at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort in Thailand will make it a reality. The luxury resort is offering a coveted chance to observe the mesmerising gentle giants in their natural habitat while staying in one of its transparent Jungle Bubbles. Perched on a hill overlooking the Mekong and Ruak rivers, the secluded spot also offers stunning views over the confluence of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. It's certainly one for the bucket list.

TALES OF TIME Take a visual tour of Vienna's dazzling history courtesy of Taschen's Portrait of a City – a compelling collection of photographs from the last 75 years. taschen.com

E X PR ESSION OF LUXURY Embark on a journey to an exceptional experience at InterContinental Genève.

Satisfy your taste for luxury in one of our Suites.

Live the InterContinental life.

GLOBETROTTER

RAMP UP THE ROMANCE Love is in the air, so make memories at these dreamy hideaways

1

2

RAMBAGH PALACE Jaipur, India Sweep your other half off their feet at India's Pink City where a real-life royal kingdom, Rambagh Palace, awaits. Stay in the decadent Suryavanshi Suite overlooking the manicured gardens, take a horse-drawn carriage to a candlelit dinner set-up and indulge in a couples’ treatment at Jiva spa.

3

SEGERA RETREAT Laikipia, Kenya Fall asleep while gazing at the twinkling night sky at the Nay Palad Bird Nest, which offers a 360-degree view of the stunning wilderness. Set above a vast wildlife sanctuary home to elephants, giraffes and more, the open-air nest will wow you with culinary delights, luxurious linens and hot water bottles for a magical stay.

Photo: Milaidhoo Island Maldives

MILAIDHOO ISLAND Maldives Turn your castaway fantasy into reality at this idyllic resort. Kick-start your weekend with a sunset dolphin cruise aboard a luxury yacht and sail to a secluded sandbank, where a romantic four-course feast awaits.

Later, enjoy drinks by the fire before drifting off to sleep on a canopy bed under the stars.

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GLOBETROTTER

Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas

ON OUR RADAR Take the chance to unplug and reconnect with your loved ones thanks to Mandarin Oriental, Miami's

Power Off in Paradise

ME Dubai

Radisson Blu Hotel, Casablanca City Center

package, which encourages you to put down your devices and enjoy activities designed to foster less screen time.

Live La Dolce Vita and take a spin through Rome's winding streets in a vintage Italian classic (think Fiat 500 or Alfa Spider) – just one of the luxurious experiences on offer at Rome

Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Hotel. You'll be joined by a professional photographer, so you can take your memories home.

NEW HOTELS

ON THE MAP EXPERIENCE... CASABLANCA The new Radisson Blu Hotel, Casablanca City Center goes to show how this ocean-fronted hub is moving towards a cooler, more contemporary vibe. The savvy resort was conceived

by Chilean architect Jaime Beriestain, mixing a laid-back, mid-century modern style with subtle Moroccan influences.

Right outside, the bustling Boulevard Mohammed V awaits, offering a glimpse into the country's traditional treasures.

ESCAPE TO... MALAYSIA Haloed by golden sands and the gentle lapping of the South China Sea, Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas offers a luxurious escape in a serene setting. Influenced by the island’s rich heritage, the stylish rooms and suites boast Malaysian designs incorporating silhouettes of traditional Malay crafts, 18 worldtravellermagazine.com

with wave-and-ripple patterns that blur the line between indoors and out.

Foodies will appreciate the resort's nod to fresh coastal dining, with an array of options ranging from freshly caught seafood to flavours from across Asia, as well as gourmet international fare.

WAIT FOR IT... DUBAI Already making waves as an architectural marvel, designed by the late, great Zaha Hadid, ME Dubai is launching soon inside the Opus building. As you've come to expect from the ME by Meliá brand, it's set to be a cultural hub, bringing together music, art, design, fashion and gastronomy, all wrapped up in a super trendy package. And with its premier location in the heart of the city, nearby Burj Khalifa, you'll be within easy reach of the city's record breaking attractions.

Star Wars fanatics can now discover a galaxy far away at Four Seasons Resort Orlando, which is celebrating the launch of Disney’s Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge with an array of special experiences including pampering spa treatments, galactic-inspired kids’ activities and extra 'Magic Hours' at the parks.

Who said butler service is just for adults? At

London Marriott Hotel Park Lane, little guests can call upon the Hamleys bear butler and pick a fluffy companion from the Teddy Bear menu.

worldtravellermagazine.com Your passport to the Middle East's first fully bookable travel inspiration website

Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features

Dream Read Click Book

Best of both worlds Bagging an exclusive spot on Bluewaters, Caesars bestows Dubai with all the pomp and pizzazz you’d expect

Striking views of Ain Dubai Enjoy some splash-tastic fun on the beach

I

t's luxury from the get-go at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai. Bringing a touch of Las Vegas flair to Dubai, the non-gaming resort exudes contemporary style, from its sleek exterior to the Romanesque and aesthetically stylish interiors. Whether you’re looking for an action-packed break with your family or a romantic escapade with your loved one, Caesars Bluewaters Dubai is the ultimate getaway.

FIND ROMANCE AT… CAESARS PALACE BLUEWATERS DUBAI

Many couples come here to indulge in the emirate’s excesses. Whether it's waking up in a lavish suite overlooking the sea, loosening up the muscles with Qua Spa's luxurious treatments that combine Japanese technology to achieve your perfect Qi (energy), or simply lounging around at Cove Beach where lively 20 worldtravellermagazine.com

beats and glittering views of the Arabian Gulf are on offer. Celebrity chefs also top the bill with Gordon Ramsay Hell’s Kitchen taking centre stage. Watch the famous Red and Blue teams whip up signature favourites including beef wellington, 'eggs in purgatory' and the heavenly sticky toffee pudding for an intimate dinner bursting with flavour. Better yet, end the night on a Latin note and sway your hips to swanky Cuban beats while you sip crafted drinks at Havana Social Club.

ENJOY FAMILY FUN AT… CAESARS RESORT BLUEWATERS DUBAI

Boasting its own pristine private beach, the luxury resort offers a full roster of water activities for splash-tastic fun. Sun worshippers can soak up the rays in a cabana while adrenaline junkies can hop on a jet ski for an adventure across the azure waters.

WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI Meanwhile, little Caesars can make some new friends at the Empire Club – think dance parties, aqua adventures, Roman games and movies under the stars. Teens, however, should make a beeline for ROAM where they can show off their skills at various game zones and virtual reality experiences, or get outdoors and enjoy the many activities on offer.

After a day of thrills and spills, Cleo’s Table pleases the most discerning of palates with its unique fusion of Mediterranean classics that adds a pinch of Arabic flavour in a stylish alfresco setting. Alternatively, Paru teams spectacular sunset views of the glistening JBR skyline with a feast of modern Japanese fare crafted by Michelinstar chef Akira Back. Be sure to keep an eye out for the shows on offer at The Rotunda, a 500-seat domed theatre that welcomes an electric roster of live acts and immersive shows to enjoy.

Book before 30 April 2020 and enjoy an exclusive 20% discount on room rates and complimentary breakfast for two with the Stay #LikeACaesar promotion. Plus, you’ll receive complimentary access to Laguna Waterpark, Mattel Play! Town and The Green Planet for two guests per room. To find out more, call +971 (0) 4 556 6666 or

Savour world-class cooking at Gordon Ramsay Hell's Kitchen

visit caesars.com/dubai

Unwind by the pool

Wake up to the sound of waves crashing

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KNOW-HOW

The Knowledge HOW TO...

Manage your travel money Credit cards, debit cards, prepaid cards and everything in between – here's everything you need to know to better manage your travel money CASH In many countries, cash is still king, especially for small transactions, which is why it’s always best to take some small bills in the local currency to use for basic essentials, such as tips and taxis.

It’s not advisable to carry large amounts of cash on you, however. The amount you can take in and out of a country varies, so check before you travel, as you may need to declare it at customs.

Always opt to exchange cash at a local bank or trusted currency exchange as you'll likely get better rates than you would at the airport or hotels.

Good for: The first day of your trip, and when travelling to remote areas.

Pros: Flexibility and convenience.

Cons: If you lose your wallet, it can be hard to make a claim for cash on your travel insurance, unless you have proof of how much money you had on you.

We recommend: Currency app XE to keep track of currency exchange rates and whether you're getting a good deal.

DEBIT CARD This handy piece of plastic affords you easy access to cash from ATMs, alongside the option for making electronic payments. When using an ATM abroad, however, expect to be charged – usually a flat fee of US$1-5, as well as a percentage of the amount you withdraw. Look for an ATM associated with your bank for the best deal.

Good for: Those who prefer to stick to a clear budget.

Pros: Widely accepted and convenient for getting cash in hand from the ATM. Cons: Hefty ATM and exchange fees could apply. Plus, if the card is hacked or stolen, your available funds are at risk.

We recommend: Make sure your card is from one of the major providers, such as Visa and Mastercard, which are widely accepted around the world.

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If you're planning to rely on it, ensure it's accepted in the destination you're travelling to.

benefits. Word to the wise: always notify your bank of your travel plans so they don’t put a pause on your card for suspicious or fraudulent activity.

CREDIT CARD Unlike cash and debit cards, credit cards provide the ultimate protection against fraud. Another perk is that you're usually granted access to great rewards. With an Emirates NBD dnata World credit card, for example, you can earn 15% reward points back on every purchase with dnata Travel. Plus, you get extra benefits when you sign up, including AED2,500 worth of travel vouchers, complimentary access to VIP airport lounges and more.

Good for: Frequent travellers.

Pros: An extra layer of security, and travel benefits.

Cons: Credit cards can have fees attached, such as international finance charges, that range anywhere from two to five percent, so always check the small print before you travel.

We recommend: If you travel a lot, look for a credit card that's aimed specifically at globetrotters and reap the extra

PREPAID CARD These handy cards can hold a number of different currencies at once, making them useful for trips with multiple stops. This ultimately allows you to spend overseas without paying a currency conversion fee (provided the currency held on the card matches the local currency) and to lock-in the exchange rates before you travel.

Plus, the card isn’t linked to your bank account which means ultimate security and comes with a back-up in case the first card is lost or stolen.

Good for: Multi-trip holidays.

Pros: If your card is stolen, your loss is limited to the amount on the card.

Cons: The fees can rack up - some issuers charge an activation fee and will bill you for every use of the card, so be sure to check the terms and conditions.

We recommend: Reading the small print before you sign up.

WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT

Bliss out

apping of the sea

Add a dash of Asian flair to your Arabian escape at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

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T

here’s an air of Siam-style sophistication here. The resort's red-roofed, whitewashed villas bring an elegant Asian style to the UAE, with their subtle decadence and stylish details. Add uninterrupted views of the Arabian Gulf and the glistening Dubai skyline, and you've got yourself the perfect retreat.

Fusing age-old philosophies with the Middle East’s rich cultural traditions, Anantara offers Asian-inspired sanctuaries that seem a world away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort is no different. From Turkish hammam rituals to revitalising scrubs, soothing wraps, illuminating facials and Ayurvedic treatments, the spa extends a warm invitation to all those who wish to experience the beauty of ancient therapeutic treatments from Asia and beyond, with its extensive menu of contemporary treatments that promise to soothe and pamper. Try a 60-minute full body massage for two (be it Swedish Massage, Arabian Massage,

traditional Thai Massage or the Anantara Signature Massage), and prepare to feel completely refreshed.

After a moment of tranquil bliss, make your way back to your private over-water villa (they're the first of their kind in the UAE) and enjoy a sneak peek into the wonders of the ocean through its glass viewing panels.

Alternatively, you could opt for a Beach Pool Villa; not only are they sumptuously furnished, but the gentle lapping of the sea around you is a sound you’ll love waking up to. Meanwhile, the Lagoon Access Room is perfect for keen swimmers with steps leading straight into the tranquil lagoons that weave their way through the resort. You'll see small Thai boats crisscrossing the lagoon pools, from which staff hand out cold towels, fruit and water for a blissful treat in the Dubai sun.

With its pagoda-roofed swim-up bar and a crescent of sea-facing sun loungers, the main infinity pool takes centre stage with its lively ambience. While your kids splash away in their swimmies, laze by one of the

swimming pools and bask in Dubai’s winter glow. Come sundown, brave foodies won’t be disappointed with Aussie steakhouse Bushman’s creative dishes. Alternatively, go back to basics and tuck into timeless Asian flavours amid a contemporary eclectic décor at Mekong.

If you feel like surprising your partner with some romance by the shore (it is the month of love, after all), Dining by Design offers a coveted chance to savour a bespoke dinner under the twinkling stars, while a private butler meets your every romantic desire.

The Spa Indulgence package costs Dhs1,250 with breakfast included. All bookings made at anantara.com will be rewarded with a resort credit of Dhs150 per stay for rooms or apartments and Dhs250 per stay for villas. The credit can be redeemed at any of the resort’s restaurants and bars, Anantara Spa, or for a longtail boat ride. Call +971 4 567 8999 or visit anantara.com to find out more.

Unwind at the spa Enjoy a romantic dinner with a gorgeous backdrop

Wake up to the gentle sound of the waves lapping the shore

worldtravellermagazine.com 25

Get under the skin of these modern metropolises and discover them from a fresh perspective with the help of our clued-up insiders

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CITIES WE LOVE

TOKYO for getting out there and active Rina Yamamoto (@tokyobabygirl) jets around the world as cabin crew for Emirates. She tells us how to make the most of Tokyo's fast paced fun Tokyo is a modern city, but its people are trying to protect its traditions as it grows. We all are very excited to host the 2020 Summer Olympics [24 July to 9 August] and Paralympic Games [24 August to 6 September]. The Olympics will feature 33 different sports, with additional events from baseball/softball, karate, skateboarding, sport climbing and surfing to see.

As you may expect, everything is very well organised. I would recommend you explore via the subway. It can seem complicated the first time you use it, but if you persevere then it'll change your life when it comes to navigating the city easily and cheaply.

A metro card costs around US$4 (500 yen) and you can personalise it with your name, which makes a nice memento to take back home.

If you're staying in the city centre then you can also get around on a bicycle.

From the end of March, the spring weather will entice you outdoors. Or, take tour of the city in a custom-built go-

cart while dressed as your favourite Super Hero, thanks to Street Kart [kart.st] – just remember to bring your international driver's permit.

Our traditional sport is Sumo wrestling, and a great way to experience it is to visit Ryogoku Kokugikan [1 Chome-3-28 Yokoami], a very old sumo hall that captures the spirit of the sport. It's not cheap to get in, but it has a very traditional ambience, with some of the Japanese locals wearing their kimonos to watch the matches.

For art, one of my favourites is the Mori Building Digital Art Museum: teamLab Borderless [Odaiba Palette Town 2F], with its mesmerising artworks that move, evolve, and influence each other.

You'll need to reserve a ticket before going as it's usually sold out on the day.

In the evenings, get out and discover the lively nightlife. Friday night is usually the busiest, when everyone is in a good mood because it's the weekend.

Shibuya is one of the most popular destinations – make sure you venture along the little streets that feed off this main hub to find some lesser known gems.

Tokyo Disneyland is also worth a visit for its thrilling attractions, and excellent hospitality. worldtravellermagazine.com 27

TBILISI for the weekend Tour guide Mariam Nozadze tells us how to make the most of a mini break in Georgia's vibrant capital city There is so much to see in Tbilisi so if your time here is short and sweet, I’d suggest you start by exploring the Old Town. You can walk there from Shavteli Street, which begins at the Berikaoba statue – there are signs on the ground that will point you in the right direction. There’s a lot to discover along the way, including free mature puppet performances which take place at Rezo This page clockwise from inset: An aerial view of Tbilisi city centre; the deliciously traditional khachapuri; riding the Mtatsminda funicular

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Gabriadze Theatre daily at noon and 7pm.

Another good stroll to take is along Rustaveli Avenue, which starts at Freedom Square and offers around 1.5km of shops and restaurants to pause at along the way.

Those with a head for heights can ride the Funicular railway up Mount Mtatsminda for a spectacular bird’s eye view of the city. Go during the early evening and settle into one of the restaurants or cafés at the top for sunset views as you dine.

When it comes to food, khinkali (Georgian dumplings) and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) are

popular local dishes, but I also urge you to taste shkmeruli (chicken cooked in milk and garlic sauce) and chakapuli (a Georgian stew made with lamb or beef with sour green plums) for something a little bit different.

On your second day, head to my favourite lesser-known part of the city, the Sololaki district, which is a showcase of traditional architecture.

It’s home to a number of hidden gems, including Writers' House Residency on Machabeli St, which has a beautiful Moorish style hall and a dining area with lovely views of the garden. In addition, David

Agmashenebeli Avenue is a great place to view 19thcentury classical architecture – you’ll find the nicest halls on streets 36 and 93.

The best way to meet the locals is to engage in supra – the tradition of feasting.

Many local families throw open their doors to visitors, inviting you to join them for a traditional meal complete with lots of singing. It’s a great way to get a sense of the Georgian soul.

Before you jet off, head to the ancient district of Abanotubani to unwind in the healing sulphur baths.

My favourite is the colourful Chreli Abano Sulfur Bath & Spa on the eastern bank of the Mtkvari River.

JEDDAH for art Maya El Khalil, curator of 21,39 Jeddah Arts, tells us how to get plugged into the emerging arts scene in the city The interest in Saudi art and artists is growing and those of us involved in the arts scene in the Kingdom are committed to developing young artists and art audiences within the city. Over the last decade, there have been many milestones; one of them being the foundation of the Saudi Art Council, chaired

by HRH Princess Jawaher bint Majed, who has been supporting artists since 1999 through the Al Mansouria Foundation. Today, there is a broader support and acceptance of creative and cultural activities, both socially and financially. As such, there’s a huge amount of activity both in Jeddah and the wider country.

As the gateway to Mecca, Jeddah has welcomed pilgrims from all over the world for centuries, so has always been a place of cultural exchange. However, like the rest of Saudi Arabia, it had very limited arts infrastructure until very recently.

It's a great time to visit, as the seventh edition of 21,39 Jeddah Arts is taking place from 28 January to 18 April, presenting a fantastic opportunity to meet new artists and engage with all those who make the city’s creative community what it is today.

As well as the main programme – I Love You, Urgently, which takes a look at the global climate crisis through a series of individual artistic explorations – you can visit various artists’ studios as well as leading galleries.

Athr is my favourite (although I am biased as I was the director there until 2016) while Hafez Gallery, Hayy (opening soon) and The Old Jeddah should all be on your wish list. You will often find artists hanging out, as well as friendly curators who would be happy to give exhibition tours and make introductions. Among the Jeddah-based artists you should check out are: Zahrah AlGhamdi, Nasser AlSalem, Filwa Nazer, Dana Awartani, Basmah Felemban, and Ahad Alamoudi. Lastly, the Jeddah Sculpture Museum on the Corniche is sure to impress.

An artwork by Ayman Zedani

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Mosque of Ibn Tulun

CAIRO for culture Travel writer Habiba Azab, sings the praises of Cairo's cultural gems It’s easy to fall in love with a city when its history is as captivating as Cairo’s.

Home to one of the oldest civilisations in the world, the sprawling capital blends the best of old-world and newworld Egypt, and the Grand Egyptian Museum, set to open this year, will put it all on display. Located just 2km from the Great Pyramids, the cultural hub will be the largest museum in the world dedicated to a single civilisation, with highlights including the biggest collection of Tutankhamun relics ever displayed – talk about a showstopper.

Until then, the Egyptian Museum will keep you busy with more than 12,000 ancient antiques and artefacts depicting ancient Egypt's glorious reign.

Expect royal mummies 30 worldtravellermagazine.com

and Tutankhamun’s famous gold mask.

The booming rumble of the muezzins' call to prayer will eventually echo out from soaring minarets beckoning discovery. The fact that Mosque of Amr Ibn Al-As was the first mosque ever built in Africa makes it worth a visit. Another must-see is Mosque of Ibn Tulun, which lies in the heart of the old Islamic Cairo, still in its original mud brick form.

Venture further along to Al-Mu'izz li-Din Allah Al-Fatimi Street, for a visual canvas of historic Islamic architecture and end your journey at The City of the Dead, an Islamic cemetery with the tombs of some of the world’s most legendary figures – it’s hauntingly mesmerising.

No trip to Cairo is complete without seeing the famous Sufi dancers. The swirling of colour is fascinating and better yet, free. Just head to the Al-Ghuri Mosque for a dazzling show.

A snapshot of the throne of Tutankhamun

Twirling Sufi dancers

CITIES WE LOVE

VALENCIA for café culture Louise Cronin, coffee roaster and owner of Yugen coffee roasters (@ yugencoffeeroasters) lives in El Carmen If you’ve visited Spain before, you will know that café culture is a huge feature of Spanish life, and its third largest city, Valencia, does not disappoint. You can barely walk 50 yards without stumbling upon a bustling terraza or a quaint café replete with Spanish charm.

The traditional cafeterias, steadily serving their café solos or café con leches to a largely local clientele, are your typical Spanish hangouts. People go for a breakfast of coffee and

tostada (usually served with tomato or olive oil and salt) and then a couple of hours later for the second meal of the day, almuerzo.

Essentially brunch, this normally comprises of yet another coffee and a bocadillo topped with a huge slab of Spanish tortilla. Cheap and cheerful, traditional Spanish cafeterias are popular with locals and tourists alike who take great delight in surveying the former thinking nothing of cracking open a bottle of red to enjoy alongside their morning coffee and catch-up.

There’s a newly emerging speciality coffee scene to discover, too, with shops and roasters popping up across the city to offer

contrast to the traditional dark roasted coffee that the Spanish know and love. One of my favourite stop-offs is Blackbird in the Barrio of Russafa [Carrer de la Reina Na Maria], which is a Wi-Fifree zone, as well as Tallat Specialty Coffee [Carrer de la Barraca], which is an expert at matching flavour notes to pastries. Dulce de Leche Boutique's amazing cake displays will leave you drooling – the best, in my opinion, is tucked away in the new beachside hotspot Mercabanyal, a container unit-style hangout with local food trucks and bars. Flying Bean Coffee [Carrer del Dr. Vila Barberà] is a little off the beaten track but worth the wander. The beans are constantly changing,

and there is a small but perfectly formed menu for brunch, with wonderfully passionate staff who’ll tell you as much or as little as you like about the beans.

In terms of what to order, try the sweet milky drink, horchata. It’s made from tigernut milk and the locals go crazy for it – especially when it comes alongside a portion of fartons (finger shaped light pastries) top dip into the horchata. If you need an energy burst, opt for a café solo or doble (for hardened caffeine drinkers).

Due to its near-perfect weather, Valencia is an all-year-round city with its terrazas open through the seasons. The locals know best so if you see a bustling terrace stop and give it a try.

Sweet treats at Blackbird, photo by Maximiliano Braun

View of the Puente del Mar bridge

Tallat Specialty Coffee

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Bridgette Morphew and Jason Lyon of Morphew

NEW YORK for vintage shopping Bridgette Morphew, founder and creative director of vintage emporium Morphew (shopmorphew.com), tells us how to shop the Big Apple for sought after fashion and accessories through the decades There’s a huge appetite for rare and one-off pieces in New York and as the number of vintage stores and thrift shops in the city has grown, the quality of what you can find has risen alongside. New Yorkers generally gravitate 32 worldtravellermagazine.com

towards a more paired down and simplistic style. In turn, this makes the vintage shopping scene unlike anywhere else on the planet.

There is a certain classic style of clothing and accessories you can find here, with pieces from the 60s to the 90s offering a look that’s a cross between Jackie Onassis and Lauren Bacall. There were lots of small and unknown designers who made very high-quality clothing for these women, and those pieces can only be found locally.

Brooklyn Flea in Dumbo, photo by Scott Lynch

CITIES WE LOVE Grand Bazaar NYC

Brooklyn Flea in Dumbo, photo by Scott Lynch

Each neighbourhood has its subtly distinctive vibe and you’ll find that the vintage shops cater to the particular aesthetic of the area they are located in. Much of the best vintage can be found in Manhattan, but that’s no reason to skip Brooklyn.

Some of the most popular boutiques include New York Vintage Inc [117 W 25th St] for rare items and Procell [5 Delancey St] for vintage t-shirts. At our showroom in the Garment District [260 West 36th St], you’ll find antique and vintage clothing with an eye towards contemporary wear. Across the water, 10 ft Single by Stella Dallas in Williamsburg [285 N 6th St] draws a dedicated following – head to the back room for the most desirable wares.

Once in a while the dealers at the flea markets will have a gem. Some of the best to check out are the Grand Bazaar NYC on the Upper West Side where you can browse more than 100 stalls.

Over at Brooklyn Flea (the outdoor market returns for the summer in April 2020) you can seek out treasures at its Pearl Plaza in Dumbo site against a dramatic backdrop of the Manhattan Bridge.

Ultimately, when shopping for vintage, look for pieces that showcase the designer’s touch, not just the label slapped inside. While you may have a budget in mind, let your emotions guide you.

With exceptional vintage, your chances of finding it again are very slim so if you love it, buy it. The very best vintage pieces get snapped up in a New York minute. worldtravellermagazine.com 33

GOTHENBURG for getting back to nature Liz Zamorski, a lawyer, lives in Styrsö, Sweden with her husband and daughter and is an expert in the various ways to enjoy the great outdoors Gothenburg is the most sustainable city in the world, and also one of the happiest. Nestled on the west coast of Sweden, both the sea and forest are on the doorstep, and eco travellers can visit with a clear conscience knowing that most of the city’s offerings are designed to reduce their carbon footprint.

Gothenburg Botanical Garden

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The best time to visit is from June to August, when you can enjoy about 17 hours of daylight and beautifully crisp weather that’s just perfect for exploring the natural surroundings. It’s also the time of year when wild strawberries and blueberries reach their full ripeness. There are lots of guides on where to go picking, or you can simply take a walk in the forest and go foraging for yourself.

The picturesque Gothenburg Botanical Garden, right in the heart of the city, is the perfect place for a picnic or a game of frisbee on the rolling

lawns. Just across the road is the central park of Gothenburg, Slottsskogen (literally meaning "the castle forest"). Its winding paths will take you on a tour of Sweden's most treasured flora. There’s also a zoo, petting zoo, and pony rides for around US$2 (20 kronor) on offer during the summer months.

Be sure to bring your hiking boots to explore on foot. I love hiking on the islands, which are a part of the Gothenburg metro area. You can easily spend a full day there enjoying the natural environment with a packed picnic.

Cycling is another popular

way to explore the city. You can rent bikes all around town thanks to the Styr & Ställ programme. The first 30 minutes is free, and it's reasonably priced thereafter.

If you’re feeling brave, take a dip in the sea. It’s chilly even during the summer, but it gets the circulation going and the water is so crisp and clean. If you have time, head to Hisingen island on Göta Älv (in the heart of downtown Gothenburg) for a dip in the sustainable swimming pool at Frihamnen and the sauna created by German architect collective Raumblabor Berlin, which is constructed largely from recycled material.

CITIES WE LOVE

AUCKLAND for families Entrepreneur, mum to twins and blogger Anna Reeve, (@annareeve_, annareeve.co.nz) tells us why the city is a draw card for families

Lion Rock

A spider monkey at Auckland Zoo

Auckland is a great destination for a family holiday. It has a bit of everything, from amazing food and shopping to being able to soak up the cosmopolitan atmosphere at Viaduct Basin, getting out on the water, and taking a drive out to see the beautifully wild West Coast beaches.

There's something for all ages.

For great views, journey to the top of the Sky Tower. My kids love riding in the fast elevators and walking along the glass floors.

Brave souls can skydive off the tower, or take a walk along the 1.2 metre wide platform.

Sea Life Kelly Tarlton's, the only place in New Zealand that rehabilitates rescued turtles, is both educational and fun for little ones. Similarly, Auckland Zoo is home to the largest diversity of wildlife in Aotearoa. During the school holidays, kids can even become Junior Keepers for a day, to learn about the daily duties of a zookeeper.

Right next to the zoological park is the Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), which will fascinate you with its showcase of achievements that have helped shape New Zealand, from the 1800s to today.

A day out at the black sand beaches of the West Coast is always great fun, with lot of dunes to climb – you can even scale Lion Rock if you're game.

Whoa! Studios amusement park in West Auckland is a cool day out – it has a fabulous restaurant for parents with an epic playground out front.

If you want to venture off the beaten track, hiking out in West Auckland is an adventure my family always loves, as there are lots of waterfalls to be found. Snorkelling at Goat Island makes an amazing day trip too, as does catching the ferry to Rangitoto Island, where you can climb the dormant volcano to the summit.

When it comes to getting around, the Link bus service is really handy – you can’t get lost as the route takes you on a big circle around the inner Central Business District.

You can hire a car for any adventures further afield. Just bear in mind that Auckland can see all types of weather in one day, so always be sure to pack accordingly. worldtravellermagazine.com 35

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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide

SPAIN p38 BAJA CALIFORNIA p44 OMAN p50

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These pages: Elephants at sunset in Etosha National Park This page: Traditional houses in the small mountain village of Bulnes Opposite: The port town of Llanes is famous for its rugged coastline

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SPAIN

Trundling through Asturias on an old narrow-gauge railway, Andrew Eames discovers another Spain: undefeated, unconquered and proud of its indie spirit

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igh on a headland I sit eating my picnic, watched by hungryeyed, wheeling gulls. To my right, a solitary lighthouse stands out against the sky. To my left is a village of ochre roofs, stacked in a natural amphitheatre. From the seafood restaurants clustered around its tiny main square, faint sounds of conviviality percolate upwards via staircases and alleys, like the happy buzz of an expectant audience before a concert. To reach my solitary viewpoint I, too, had had to drift through the village’s Escherlike maze of streets, to the fading echoes of plinking glassware. Now I’m watching the slow flow of fishing boats into the small port, as they seek sanctuary from the heaving sea. Were it not for the ochre of the roofs I could be in Cornwall, I think, gazing on the village, wedged into its coastal cleft.

Were it not for the fields of wheat and eucalyptus inland, I could be in Switzerland: against the distant haze is a crest of forest and an impression of mountains. And the cheese I’m eating? I could swear it was Stilton.

It’s a confusion of identities, but it’s making me fall in love with Spain all over again. The cheese I’m eating is Cabrales, the lovely village is Cudillero, and my magical viewpoint is the Mirador de la Estrecha.

This is Spain. Not the vision I’ve got to know and love as a result of previous trips – not the Spain of flamenco, tapas and bullfighting; of paella, Rioja and the rest. This is something different.

Sure, we’ve all visited enough times to know it’s a country of diverse personas – there’s an España for everyone, whether you want Picassos or a perfect tan – but still Asturias, the corner I now find myself in, is a spectacular surprise. This is a Spain that marches to an altogether unfamiliar tune.

It was a cinch to reach my lunch spot, starting from Asturias airport, just a 15-minute skip along the coast.

My hotel was another surprise. The Casona de la Paca is not the high-rise resort typical of a Spanish costa, but one of Asturias’s distinctive minichateaus or Casas de Indianos. They’re 40 worldtravellermagazine.com

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COVE-CRADLED BEACHES OUT OF ONE WINDOW, FORESTS AND MEADOWS THROUGH THE OTHER… THE TRAIN DOODLED PAST SCENTS OF MEADOWS AND THE SOUNDS OF COWBELLS

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named after their wealthy creators, who left Asturias for the New World as paupers in the late 19th century, made their fortune and returned home to show off their success.

Their mansions are florid showpieces, extravagantly tiled and topped with fluted turrets, domes and spires. Reworked as hotels, they make compellingly individual places to stay. The creator of Casona de la Paca made his fortune in Cuba and built his balconied mansion high above the village, among the appleblossom trees. In the light-filled drawing room, I mingled politely with guests over an early evening aperitif.

After the refined refuge of the hotel, Cudillero couldn’t have made a stronger contrast when I ambled down on my first morning. Narrow lanes of simple houses, many tumbledown, displayed the hardships of making a living in a ruggedly beautiful world: the vicissitudes of fishing and farming sent many people away. But as my days unravelled, Cudillero, and what lay around, seduced me. I hiked to headlands and remote, immaculate beaches, returning to the slow rhythms of the port, where gravel-voiced exskippers took little dogs ambling along the quay, sharing their hard-earned experiences with anyone who’d listen.

SPAIN These pages, clockwise from left: The picturesque fishing village of Cudillero; the deliciously simple scallops with lemon; gaitas (bagpipes) are a popular traditional Asturian instrument; Oviedo Cathedral has a Gothic charm

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I moved on aboard a narrow-gauge railway, the Feve, built as a lifeline for the villages it connects as it progresses along the coast. Lurching into Cudillero’s station, scattering cats off the platform, it was a singular creation: I thought it was an urban tram that had taken a wrong turn. Cove-cradled beaches out of one window, forests and meadows through the other… It doodled from one lonely station to another, past scents of meadows, sounds of cowbells and households with hórreos – grain stores on four legs, to keep rats at bay, their old beams grimacing with age. We seemed to be following an unofficial equator that divided the world of the pescadores (fishermen) from that of the vaqueiros, the cattle herders and their celebrated cheesemaking.

Here was a journey slow enough to encourage gossip, in my case with an 83-year-old retired merchant seaman called Guillermo, with whom I had a

part-mime conversation that ranged in subject matter from Oliver Twist to the white cliffs of Dover, with a lot of laughter along the way. It came to a sad end when a crowd of teenagers filled the train as it approached Oviedo, the capital of Asturias. A boy sat between us, some girls opposite, and when my new friend made a couple of (I’m sure witty) remarks to them about the ripped knees on their jeans, they completely, deliberately, cold-shouldered him. He bade me farewell and moved off down the train.

This, combined with the subterranean gloom of the main station, gave me a bad feeling about Oviedo. And yet, an hour later, I was in a cobbled square in the heart of the city, leaning against a statue of a woman and her donkey selling milk, bagpipe music wafting over the walls. The capital’s pedestrianised, mostly 16th- and 17th century city centre is unexpectedly handsome, and it makes more than a hat-tip to the strong rural

traditions of its hinterland. It wasn’t just the statue of the woman and her donkey.

Wandering, I’d already encountered bronzes of nursing mothers, milkmaids, fish-sellers and women making stew.

The familiar pompous street furniture of Spain – equestrian aristocrats, enthroned bishops – didn’t get a look-in here.

Sure, there was formality in the shape of bishops’ palaces and churches in peach-coloured stone, but there was nothing museum-like about the historic heart. I tracked down those bagpipes to a couple of silk-gowned wedding processions in the square before the Gothic Catedral de San Salvador. By late afternoon, the wedding scenes had given way to a classic-car rally, succeeded by another bagpiper band later in the evening and the finish of a 10k race the following morning.

It was like the city’s living room.

Oviedo, I discovered, lets its hair down in Calle Gascona. Known as ‘El Bulevar

Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

These pages, clockwise from below: Animals reflect in the sunset in Etosha National Park; an offroad vehicle with roof tent parked beneath a starry sky

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SPAIN Opposite: Waves crash into the rocks at Cudillero Lighthouse This page: The La Regenta sculpture by Mauro Alvarez is revered for its incredible attention to detail

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THEIR MANSIONS ARE FLORID SHOWPIECES, EXTRAVAGANTLY TILED AND TOPPED WITH FLUTED TURRETS, DOMES AND SPIRES

de la Cidra’, it’s lined with taverns serving Asturian bean stews and ciders. If you didn’t know what to expect, you might think on first glance that the individuals standing oddly motionless by the walls, yellowish liquid splashing at their feet, were doing something deeply anti-social.

But these are the cider waiters, who take pride in pouring the first servings of the bottle from a great height to properly aerate it. Some of it inevitably misses.

I was back on the Feve again next day, this time heading northeast back towards the coast. The long skinny railway lines ran alongside stream-watered meadows and disused watermills, where the train was whipped occasionally by trailing brambles for daring to trespass on their peaceful world. My destination was a proper seaside resort and one

’

that proved to be uniquely Asturian, bearing little resemblance to its cousins on Spain’s more touristed costas.

Ribadesella spreads either side of the River Sella, which rises in the Picos de Europa. These mountains fill the southern horizon, providing a barrier between the coast and the rest of Spain, and filling the Sella with water, so while the rivers of many costas run dry, this one teems with salmon. That mountainous barrier had another effect: in the 8th century, when Spain was overrun by Moors from North Africa, it kept the invaders at bay, something locals point to when they claim that Asturi is the ‘real Spain’: the unconquered Spain, Spain at its most independent-minded.

Certainly Ribadesella had a flavour all of its own. The right bank is the original

town, with fishing boats, restaurants and pilgrims passing through on the Camino de Santiago. Across the bridge I found the resort, on a sandy spit, purpose-built in the early 20th century by migrants with a penchant for turrets and castellations.

Extravagant villas line the promenade, some private, some now hotels.

The resort was meant to be for the unhealthy and the wealthy – King Alfonso XIII used to stay. Now I found it an enclave of vintage chic. Without the wriggle room to grow, or the scorchio weather to attract big numbers, it is the kind of place where children might still wear sailor suits, dressed by their nannies. From my seaview balcony in the tiled and turreted Villa Rosario, the most flamboyant of its Casas de Indianos, I could look down on the sweeping promenade that backs the Playa de Santa Marina, and out to where a single sail dawdled its way across the bay. I felt I should be writing poetry before a late-evening sashay along the prom.

If I were to complete my Asturian journey I needed to make one last stop, by bus – up the Sella River, about 25km inland to Cangas de Onís. Billed as the gateway to the Picos de Europa, it couldn’t have been more different from the coast. The delicate rib of its Roman bridge, arching across the tumbling Sella, framed a fresco of snow-topped mountains. Wood smoke, rather than sea salt, fragranced the air; rafting, quadbiking, canoeing and canyoning were touted on every street corner; vaqueiros in mud-spattered cars lurched along the main street and a much younger breed of tourist was tucking into bean stew and 24-hour breakfasts in the cafés.

This is most decidedly hill country, but visitors are here for more than adrenaline sports. It is a place of pilgrimage. Just up the road, in 722AD, the Moors were finally defeated at the Battle of Covadonga and the Reconquista began. It is the source of Asturias’s claim to be the country’s undefeated soul. I breathed in the air and realised, whatever the niceties of that claim, in this region I’d found a place with an irresistible individualistic streak. Another country. Another Spain. What’s more, here I’d reached the very wellspring.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 43

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These pages: Marea

By Day restaurant at Montage Los Cabos

BAJA CALIFORNIA

Down mexico way The vast Mexican peninsula of Baja California has starry associations and stylish new digs, as Andrew Eames discovers

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BAJA CALIFORNIA

aja California, one of the longest peninsulas in the world, hangs like a relaxed arm by the torso of Mexico.

It's where the ultra-wealthy come to be pampered.

And they do that well here. I had my first four-handed massage, a 120-minute, perfectly choreographed ballet of knuckles and Popeye forearms that, I was told, would make me feel like a new person.

I did, albeit a slightly flatter one, like a ball of partially rolled-out pastry.

Los Cabos, the catch-all for the twin towns of Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, at the tip of the peninsula, became a hideaway for the rich and famous in the 1950s, when John Wayne would fly down from Hollywood in a propeller plane to weekend at the elegant hacienda that is now the One&Only Palmilla.

This area, where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet, was a wild desert of elephant cacti, vast beaches and rusty-fissured canyons. It hasn't changed much, apart from the influx of luxury hotels, which began to open in the 1990s and have boomed in the past five years; recent newcomers include the Four Seasons and the Waldorf Astoria.

And, as these grand palaces have risen from the desert, so have the prices.

I was staying at the Montage Los Cabos where rooms with huge terraces, giant beds and colour palettes of pale stone and blues sit above meticulously mown lawns and infinity pools that look out over the opalescent water of Santa Maria Bay. Sandwiched between butterscotch cliffs that glow at sunrise, this is one of the area's few swimming beaches – most of the Pacific ones are blighted by powerful rip currents. Besides the massage and lounging in the spa, I kayaked at dawn, watched the release of 250 baby turtles on the beach and ate fine-dining versions of shrimp tacos al pastor, all while rubbing shoulders with actresses, former US senators and Hollywood producers.

I could have stayed cocooned in the resort, but when Adele, Bono and Leonardo DiCaprio weekend in Los Cabos, they eat at Flora Farms, an allorganic restaurant, farm and spa spread

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across mango groves in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains.

Its 25 acres bubble with Americans holding a wineglass in one hand and a bottle in the other as they trail between posh boutiques and cookery classes.

I settled for a lunch of sea bass with farro, grape tomatoes and caramelised garlic beneath the red corrugated-iron barn roof, festooned with fairy lights and strings of miniature sombreros.

Next door, hidden in the jungle, Acre is another high-profile hotspot: a hip bar and restaurant in moulded concrete, sprinkled with blue-patterned handmade tiles. Chef Alexander Branch has worked with the Mexican celebrity chef Enrique Olvera, and the roast lamb rack zinged with pumpkinseed and mint romesco. If I had booked one of the treehouse suites, I'd have had more chance of spotting high-profile guests such as Tim Allen, Sophie Turner and Adam Levine. But being a mere mortal surrounded by the glitterati is tough, so I retreated to the new Nobu Hotel Los Cabos, west of Cabo San Lucas. This lowkey-luxe spot from the eponymous chef has the clean lines and bold angles of a modern-art museum. The minimalist rooms, though, feel more Japanese than Mexican, with honey-coloured wooden screens, cream-stone sculptures, black accents and deep Japanese bathtubs set by a feature wall encrusted with pebbles.

I lounged in the maze of dark blue pools, the crash of Pacific rollers in my ears, slathered myself in freshly cut aloe vera and sat sweating in the steam room. Then I ate tuna tartare with caviar at the signature restaurant as dragonflies darted around my ankles.

The only thing not relaxing about luxury hotels is the bill when you check out, but there's another side to Baja that won't bust the budget. An hour's drive north, up the west coast of the peninsula, is another duo of towns, El Pescadero and Todos Santos, which make up a boho-surf enclave and come at a far lower price.

They share 300 days of annual sunshine and the same stretches of sand: Playa Los Cerritos and Playa San Pedrito, both a short drive away, are two of the best.

It takes barely five minutes on the

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TODOS SANTOS HAS A WILD WEST FEEL, WITH SUN-BAKED PAVEMENTS OUTSIDE ONE-STOREY BUILDINGS IN RAINBOW COLOURS

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This page, clockwise from above: An aerial view of Cabo San Lucas; surfboards outside a rental shop on Cerritos Beach; sea bass fillet on a bed of vegetables

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BAJA CALIFORNIA

desert highway for the buildings of Los Cabos to peel away and the car windows to fill with hulking green hills, the sparkling Pacific peeking through gaps.

Shrubland is punctuated with ridged cacti holding arms to the heavens, and makeshift roadside taco shacks appear in bursts of bright fuchsia and yellow.

I was heading to Playa Los Cerritos, a beach village at the end of a rutted dirt road just south of El Pescadero. It's scattered around a big boomerang of white sand, with a sheer cliff topped by an old-fashioned hacienda in yellow and vermilion. This is now a boutique hotel with a public whale-watching bar where, from March to November, you can see grey, humpback and sperm whales breaching in the ocean below.

I booked a two-bedroom casita at Cerritos Villas, a complex with a hot tub, a pool and a pizza bar, five minutes from the sand. Cerritos is the only beach for miles where it's safe to swim, and surfers come from all over to ride waves here and at San Pedrito, up the coast.

I lazed on the sand as dudes with deep tans touted surf lessons from beneath flimsy gazebos stacked with surfboards. I jumped waves and watched a vaquero ride a one-eyed, flaxenhaired horse through the shallows. I ate deep-fried fish tacos with avocado salsa and swigged icy drinks from the Barracuda Cantina, behind the beach.

There's a buzz about this area that's partly down to the opening of the 32-room Hotel San Cristobal – brainchild of the trendy Bunkhouse Group – about 10 minutes up the highway towards Todos Santos.

It was there I sat and blissfully ate breakfast by whitewashed cubes surrounding a pool lined with bottlegreen tiles, and watched fishermen walk from their blue-striped boats up Punta Lobos beach, trailing their catch and rods in clear plastic bags.

Then I hit the road to Todos Santos.

This dusty grid of streets, crisscrossed overhead with fluttering coloured papel picado bunting, is one of the country's pueblos magicos (magical towns),

chosen for their cultural richness – and magical it is. It has a Wild West feel, with sun-baked pavements outside onestorey buildings in rainbow colours, and surf shops and art galleries.

I slurped a strawberry paleta – a traditional ice lolly made with crushed fresh fruit – from La Paloma while wandering around the shops. I bought a kaleidoscopic pelican print from a Mexico City artist in the La Sonrisa de la Muerte gallery and flamboyantly decorated pottery skulls lusted over by anyone who has been to Mexico, or seen Disney's Coco.

Back at Playa Los Cerritos, I decided it was time for another massage.

Matilda set up her table on the sand and I got an energetic rub-down – the sea air whipping around me as the sun slipped beneath the surf. It took half the hands of my first Baja spa session, but it was also 6% of the cost. I think we can call it even.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing

These pages, from left to right: A humpback whale takes a giant leap; the upper pool firepit at Montage Los Cabos

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‘

I LOUNGED IN THE MAZE OF DARK BLUE POOLS, THE CRASH OF PACIFIC ROLLERS IN MY EARS

’

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His childhood imagination fired by his mum’s tales of Arabia, Mike MacEacheran finally gets to repay the debt — with a road trip for both of them, along Oman’s remote Route 66

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OMAN

worldtravellermagazine.com 51

ophins appeared suddenly on the starboard bow, followed by a toddler-like shriek. Then a porpoise propelled itself into the air, spinning above the pewter sea, checked by a parental, reassuring ooh. When it bellyslammed back down, it was followed by a familiar, gurgly aah. Yet it wasn’t my little one doing the goo-goo gaga-ing – it was my 73-year-old mum. Agog and aflutter, she let out another squeak and dangled a hand over the side as Captain Jasim killed the engine and we drifted.

‘Look, look!’ she yelled. ‘My God! A whale!’ Infused with the magic light of dawn, the arrival of a humpback felt like a moment arranged just for her.

We were off the coast of Muscat, floating on a glassy sea – mother and son together – and I could sense something awakening inside her. For years mum had dreamed of visiting ‘real Arabia’. The idea had been hers since reading One Thousand and One Nights as a girl: the Scheherazade tales and sand dunes, the forts, wadis and

These pages, from inset: Wadi Bani Khalid; a fisherman heads out to work the waters close to Muscat; spinner dolphins off the coast

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wild, unpredictable adventures. She wanted ‘the full Arabian’. Everything, in fact, bar the glitz that the Gulf has now become renowned for.

Now a granny, she deserved a treat, a holiday. She had been introducing my two-year-old son to the enchanted deserts of Arabia in the same way she’d schooled me in the magical realms of Ali Baba and Aladdin. By taking her on an expedition to Oman I would help inspire her imagination – she would feel the sand under her feet and the desert wind in her hair.

Oman is a throwback to a different age. It feels richer than elsewhere in Arabia. The rest have gussied themselves up with utopian towers, star-spangled museums, sci-fi stadiums and hyper-designed hotels.

The Omanis and Bedouin tribes, custodians of the Empty Quarter desert (or Rub’ al Khali), do not slot into that narrative. Even Muscat, Oman’s time-stopped capital, with its palaces, frankincense-selling souk and spindly minarets, is nothing like other Arabian megapolises. Oman’s amazing wildlife

makes it a world apart, too, with camels, leopards, oryx, green turtles, dolphins and, yes, even the odd whale.

We both craved an unforgettable road trip along Arabia’s Route 66, down the Indian Ocean coast. We’d stay in tented camps on the edge of the Rub’ al Khali, before looping inland to return north. Taking a look at Google Maps, we saw an improbable union of sand, sea and asphalt. Highway 17 from Muscat morphs into a rough coastal road that unfurls south at Al Khaluf, the end of Arabia. A foolhardy journey, my dad

‘

THE RIPPLING MOUNTAINS TO THE WEST SPARKLED LIKE DIAMONDS, HIDING WADI DAYQAH DAM DEEP WITHIN THEIR FOLDS

’

OMAN

had tut-tutted when I was planning the trip; and yet, indisputably, the perfect thread linking the storied landscapes I’d grown up with. These places had meaning for mum and me.

We picked up the Land Cruiser in Muscat. As we left the airport behind, we saw the quick transition from city limits to open road and yawning desert. It made mum a little panicky.

‘You’re sure we have all we need?’ she asked, anxiously. Yes, we had all we needed. That’s how easy it is to strike out on your own adventure in Oman: the roads aren’t intimidating, and the distances on the map are manageable.

Best of all, the sights will leave you awestruck: toothpaste-blue sea through one window, golden desert through the other, and a landscape speckled with watchtowers and dhow yards.

We struck south, crossing the Al Hajar Mountains that separate the high desert plateau from the scorching coast, reaching Quriyat, the first in a string of cute fishing villages along the seashore. The sky was bright and clear and pale golden streaks flooded through the windscreen.

The rippling mountains to the west sparkled like diamonds, hiding Wadi Dayqah Dam deep within their folds.

Its soaring reservoir, a timely lesson in desert survival, was the first of many detours – as we quickly learned, there is as much to see in Oman’s interior as there is on the coast.

That afternoon, we wound up at the irresistible natural swimming pools of Wadi Tiwi, a gorge-cut oasis accessed through wild date palms and bushy plantations, our 4WD splashing down a swollen riverbed gravel road. Heavy rains had arrived the week before and the ensuing rush down from mountains surprised us: an off-road Top Gear moment. The light glistened on the river and after a boulder-hopping walk, a natural lido appeared. For a moment we found ourselves completely lost in a mother-son water fight. Already, mum was finding her Oman mojo.

That first night we spent further along the coast under canvas at Ras Al Jinz, easternmost Arabia: the last point before the road meets the sea.

Our home was an eco-tent unlike any I’d stayed in before, let alone mum. worldtravellermagazine.com 53

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Bronze Age tools and cairn burial sites from early Islamic settlements have been found. We laughed over an ice factory in the middle of the desert (for packing fish? Icing drinks? Cooling down camels? We couldn’t guess). We sipped syrupy cardamom coffee from roadside vendors. We lost count of how many hip-waggling camels we saw before entering the desert proper.

The further we explored, the further we felt we were travelling back in time, back to when we were both younger. In these hours, we passed only a handful of other vehicles. In quieter moments, I could see my mum processing the desert world she had never seen before.

The visions of Ibn Battuta, Wilfred Thesiger and Lawrence of Arabia.

One afternoon, abruptly, the coastal road veered inland from the white sugar dunes of Al Khaluf, our farthest stop south, and we struck north on Route 32 into a landscape embedded with multi-layered dunes and barebranched acacia trees. Mum’s dream was to become reality. By midafternoon, our road was scrambling up and over itself into the great nowhere of the Wahiba Sands, in search of a desert camp at the end of an off-road track. We corkscrewed over a ridge into a landscape that became starker and more savage: barren, desert country, coloured-in with golden warmth and yellow fuzziness. Confronted with its epic scale, mum visibly glowed.

Out of this nothingness came the Sama Al Wasil Desert Camp, looking like something a child would draw: peaked sandbanks, skirted by a clutter of pretty Bedouin tents and huts around a large courtyard. The promise of tussocky dunes to climb, fire-pit lamb barbecues to savour, zero light pollution for perfect stargazing and only two camels (Sohan and Shahin) to share it with was both evocative and acutely Arabian.

Sunrise, on our final morning, found us on camels traversing a sweeping dune heading deeper into the Rub’ al Khali. We had risen in the dark to avoid the heat of the day and followed our white-robed Bedouin guide, Amur, for a couple of hours. The higher we climbed, the more I could sense my mum’s blissful contentment. Sand whipped our legs and stubborn waves of grain crowded us from all sides. Sunlight struck our faces with such force that my mum’s billowy keffiyeh momentarily recast her as a desert explorer, a vision enhanced by the sweat and sand in my eyes. This was it, her One Thousand and One Nights moment – astride a camel, hair mussed-up, conquering magical, storybook dunes. It was wonderful, windswept desert perfection. And a tribute, even if I say so myself, to my being a pretty good son.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: Stephen Doig / The Telegraph / The Interview People

More Aladdin’s Cave than Glastonbury pitch, it concealed comforts we never expected in the middle of nowhere: a rocket-sized air-con unit, a plasma TV and, amid the embroidered cushions where we could play at being Bedouin royalty, an armoire and treasure chest. Best of all, to complete the Dubai-in-the-desert luxe, there was a pummelling en-suite shower. This eyrie of ours stood on the edge of a craggy peninsula, a zip-open door revealing the headland ablaze at sunset.

We were here to see a nesting site for endangered green turtles – a bold project in Omani tourism set up to educate local fishermen and protect the annual arrival of 30,000 of the sea creatures upon the surrounding beaches. The reptiles are a constant worry for the people of Ras Al Jinz; so much so, that no wandering on the beach is permitted any more after dark. As a result, the armoured, elegant females can pull themselves up the shore in peace to lay and cover their eggs with flipper shovels of sand. To that end, zealously controlled escorted torch-lit tours keep human interference to a minimum.

Under the light of a crescent moon, Ras Al Jinz Beach turned the colour of silver. Stars splashed across the sky and my mum guided my eyes to a twinkling ‘W’ in the sky: Cassiopei. We followed the torchlight down to the beach. The sparse vegetation and dunes thinned out until all that was before us was a black shadow of sand and the thundering swells of the sea, somewhere in the dark.

The wind blew. Soon, a monstrous 135kg turtle appeared, only her glimmering shell visible in the halo of light as she waddled up the beach to begin her ritual.

In what seemed a heartbeat, half a dozen other turtles arrived, patrolling the surf as if on the lookout for trespassers, all to bury the next generation under the sand, away from the burning days. If it hadn’t been so dark, I know I’d have seen mum wide-eyed with wonder.

Gradually, our odyssey unravelled along the coastline, the two of us transfixed by the hot flush of colours and shades. At Al Ashkharah, we swam off an extraordinary beach, reeling under the visual assault of blue on gold, then watched cowl-wrapped fishwives mending nets on the shoreline where

OMAN These pages, left to right: Camels drinking in Wadi Darbat river; a green turtle crawling back to the sea after having laid eggs on the Ras Al-Jinz beach

‘

IN WHAT SEEMED A HEARTBEAT, HALF A DOZEN OTHER TURTLES ARRIVED, PATROLLING THE SURF AS IF ON THE LOOKOUT FOR TRESPASSERS, ALL TO BURY THE NEXT GENERATION UNDER THE SAND

’

worldtravellermagazine.com 55

long weekend the

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This page: A world of underwater wonders await discovery Opposite: Panoramic view of the island; Constance Prince Maurice, Mauritius; The Wellness Festival Mauritius at Heritage Resorts

Mauritius

It may be a mere speck in the Indian Ocean, but this idyllic island will surely cast a spell on you with its wondrous treasures

THE LONG WEEKEND

Mark Twain said it best: “Mauritius was made first, and then heaven; and that heaven was copied after Mauritius”. This island nation of whispering sugar-cane fields, chirping birds that soar above lush forests, and days spent lazing in the shade of coconut trees was once a haunt for pirates. Today, it's a tropical paradise with powdery white-sand beaches lapped by turquoise waters, and an impressive collection of five-star resorts. The gamut of watersports, luxury spas, top-flight golf courses and gourmet dining spots make it hard to leave your hotel but there’s so much more to discover beyond, and you’ll be rewarded with even the tiniest attempts at exploration. Whether it's hiking through the island’s mountainous terrain, exploring the French colonial architecture, admiring the botanical gardens, horse riding through the surf, or taking part in nature walks, adventure is never far away.

Tucked away on the edge of a sheltered leafy peninsula on Mauritius’ east coast, Constance Prince Maurice, Mauritius will charm you with its beauty and calming ambience. Home to luxurious palm-shaped suites, a sprawling pool, lavish spa and spectacular floating restaurant offering the rich, warm flavours and spices of the region on a plate, it’s no wonder this romantic retreat is named after Prince Maurice Van Nassau, who pioneered the spice trade in the Indian Ocean.

Alternatively, you can enjoy a good night’s sleep cocooned amid the oldest and largest tea plantation on the island at the cosy Bubble Lodge. The resort's semi-transparent eco-domes give you an unfettered view of the wandering clouds and twinkling stars above. And with the dawn chorus as your only companion, you can stretch out and sink into the easy rhythm of Mauritian life. Add a gourmet restaurant and oodles of activities to try, and you've got the perfect escape.

Lapped by the ocean, with the jagged La Morne Mountain in full view, The

Reset

OCEAN DRIVE

Unplug and enjoy a stress-free holiday at these stand-out abodes St. Regis Mauritius Resort is set on one of the island's most stunning and sheltered stretches of blond sand.

Soaring ceilings, four-poster beds and vast terraces add a touch of classic glamour, whereas Iridium Spa is daringly contemporary. Be sure to explore the world-famous One Eye surfing spot – it's ideal for kite surfing adventures.

Refurbished by British designer Kelly Hoppen, the edgy LUX* Belle Mare Resort

& Villas promises an element of sweet surprise at every corner – think chocolate workshops hosted by pastry chef extraordinaire Pascal Galette. From the thatched roofed villas dressed in soothing whites, to the sweetscented spa treatments, spectacular roster of restaurants, and attentive service, the resort is sure to win you over.

The Wellness Festival Mauritius is returning to the country this year (2224 May), with C Beach Club of Heritage Resorts hosting a roster of experiences and workshops that offer the perfect excuse for a rejuvenating break. Set amid serene surroundings between the reef and a nature reserve, the festival will offer six wellness experiences with over 60 workshops combining mind-body practices, ways to connect with nature, holistic health and personal development.

Whether its forest bathing, meditation, personal development workshops, art exhibitions, or breathing exercises – all led by experts in their field – you can work your way towards improving your wellness, and boosting your mood at the same time. By the end of your holiday, you'll feel like a whole new person.

worldtravellermagazine.com 57

Culture bound

Get up off your sunlounger and discover more Beyond the pristine beaches and turquoise seas, Mauritius is a melting pot of different cultures well worth investigating.

Make the Natural History Museum the first stop

on your list. Not only is it the oldest museum in the country, but also the oldest in Southern Africa, preserving the richest zoological collection of the Indian Ocean as well as various artefacts that reflect the island's history and art. Venture further down memory lane to the heart of the island’s colonial past at the Mauritius Photography Museum. Hidden behind the cobbled pathways of Port Louis, the 18th century building is home to thousands of historical pictures taken during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Make sure to end your trip on a sweet note and learn more about the deeply intertwined history of sugar and Mauritius at L'Aventure du Sucre.

Housed in a former sugar factory, it tells the story of the sugar industry in Mauritius, with lots of different varieties to taste.

58 worldtravellermagazine.com

HUNGRY FOR MORE Trying the tasty street food, such as dholl puri, is a must. Mauritians go starry-eyed at talk of this delicious treat made of traditional flatbread and filled with spicy ground split peas, and Dewa & Sons makes the best on the island. For lunch, look no further than bol renversé, Mauritius’ magic bowl. As the name suggests, the tasty dish is an upside-down mix of chicken, stirred vegetables and rice packed into a bowl to form a dome topped with a perfectly oozing fried egg. And if you’re looking for the ultimate way to quench to your thirst on a hot summer's day, alouda (made with milk, basil seeds and agar-agar jelly) is a lifesaver. Port Louis Central Market serves it by the bucketful.

This page from top: Dive into the deep blues of Mauritius; L'Aventure Du Sucre Opposite from top: Laze by the beach; the stunning red fody

REEF MADNESS

Whatever your skill level, there's a dive for you

Beginner Blue Bay Marine Park With a clear visibility (up to 50 metres), this park feels like a bottomless pool of marine treasures.

With stunning corals and colourful fishes gliding through the shallow waters, it's the perfect spot for beginners and those looking for a gentle dive experience. Prepare to enter a Finding Nemo style wonderland, with clown fish, reef sharks, moray eels, and batfish swimming right beside you.

Intermediate The Cathedral at Flic-en-Flac Located off Flic-en-Flac on the western coast, this site features a stunning 28-metre arch and a vertical chimney that allows you to approach the most dazzling species of marine life. As you descend deeper into the underwater cave, you'll see a stream of light seep through the arch illuminating the entire aquatic landscape. In the crevasses, scorpion fish and schools of jacks hide.

Advanced Whale Rock at Grand Baie The varying depths of the site make this dive a bit tricky, but the exceptional diversity of reef life on display makes it worth the effort. From angelfish and triggerfish to small moray eels, parrotfish and labre fish, colours swirl around you. Occasionally in the summer, it's possible to see some of the larger species of fish that linger here, such as swordfish and hammerhead sharks.

THE LONG WEEKEND

JUST BEACHY

Soak up the rays on the sand

THE CROWD-PLEASER: Île aux Cerfs This little piece of turquoise paradise boasts over 4km of sandy bliss. Sun worshippers can sunbathe under the glowing sun while keen golfers can perfect their swing at the Ile aux Cerfs Golf Club while lapping up the views.

THE CULTURAL GEM: Le Morne Beach Enjoy an exotic beach break while ticking off a cultural must-see at this stunning hotspot. Here, you’ll find miles of white sand and crystal clear waters set against the backdrop of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Le Morne Brabant mountain.

THE SECRET SPOT: Riambel Beach This hidden gem rises out the sapphire ocean to welcome you to an untouched haven. The unspoilt beach could be your best bet if you want a more secluded affair.

Ask a local

Words: Habiba Azab

Experience the Mauritian way of life through the eyes of Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas' streetwise guru Lionel Athion

“For a true taste of Mauritian life, set off on a journey to discover the island's original capital, Mahebourg. The small town is relentlessly charming and is all about the simple pleasures in life. Take a stroll along the streets and admire the historic wooden creole houses, scenic waterfront promenades and buzzing markets, all while soaking up the spectacular views of the looming Lion Mountain. The town's multicultural population is evident in its many churches, mosques and colourful Hindu temples. Be sure to check the Monday market off your must-see list. Brimming with exotic spices, souvenirs, pooja offerings, woven baskets and silks, it's a feast for all the senses. You can also discover remnants of the 1774 shipwreck at the National History Museum, which is located in Chateau Gheude, an old French colonial country house built in 1772.”

WHERE THE WILDERNESS IS Walk with lions at…

Casela Nature Parks.

Take a walk on the wild side (quite literally) and get to experience first-hand what it’s like to be part of the pride.

Under the supervision of expert rangers, you’ll get to enjoy a stroll alongside the Kings of the Jungle, touch them and learn all about their natural habitat.

Admire endangered bird species at… Black River Gorges National Park. Whether it’s the Mauritian flying fox or the vibrant red fody, echo parakeet, pink pigeon, or olive whiteeye, there’s a lot for twitchers to keep an eye out for here. Considered the largest protected forest of Mauritius, the national park is home to over 300 species of flowering plants, nine species of birds that are

unique to Mauritius, as well as spellbinding waterfalls (the lush Alexandra Falls is particularly striking).

Feed giant tortoises at… La Vanille Nature Park.

Embrace the rare chance to feed, pet and play with these marvellous creatures

while watching Nile crocodiles go about their day. The park also houses a rare collection of butterflies and other brightly coloured insects (about 23,000 species in total), making it one of the most fascinating in the world.

worldtravellermagazine.com 59

WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...

Call of the wild Journey into the desert dunes for a close-up look at the wildlife thanks to these luxury resorts

1

2

Saddle up and gallop across the rolling sand dunes on an Arabian stallion at Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa. Watch the sun set as the desert breeze washes over you, with nothing but the sound of the soft tread of hooves breaking the silence.

Plus, as night falls, you can embark on a nocturnal animal hike under the stars to see creatures that only come out after dark, including desert scorpions that glow in the light of your infrared torch.

3

For a safari-like experience, head to Sir Bani Yas Island to admire the free-roaming wildlife that thrives in the protected Arabian Wildlife Park. The dreamy Desert Islands Resort & Spa by Anantara gives you a front row seat to all the animal action. Set off on a Nature and Wildlife Drive in one of the few vehicles allowed on the island to marvel at the prized Arabian oryx and crane your neck as the giraffes wander by. To find out more, visit visitabudhabi.ae

Photo: Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa

Watch falcons take to the sky and show off their hunting prowess at Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara. This Instagrammable resort invites you to admire the majesty of the birds as they soar overhead in a thrilling faux hunt alongside speedy saluki dogs. After an exhilarating show, you can set off across the shifting sands in a four-wheel drive to a Bedouin-style camp where you can feast on traditional fare while admiring the breathtaking landscape.

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CELEBRATE

2020 WITH HOLIDAYS FOR

AED2,020pp

Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app

| Follow us on

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL

STAYCATION

Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel British charm blends seamlessly with Dubai's signature glamour at this luxury resort THE ROOMS & SUITES Teaming classic British hospitality with a dash of contemporary bling, this beachfront resort awes with its Arabian Sea vistas that make for a relaxing stay.

Each room has been elegantly styled with subtle, earthy tones and antique furniture. What's more, the service is royally impeccable, with optional butler service. Luxurious Floris amenities add a welcoming touch.

THE FOOD In a city awash with A-list Indian cuisine, Khyber certainly holds its own. Straight from the heart of Mumbai, the restaurant will spice up your evening with its wide array of authentic North Indian flavours.

Alternatively, you can ramp up the glamour by tucking into a hearty steak at West 14th Steakhouse, followed by a nightcap at Dukes bar, which can be shaken or stirred to your liking.

THE ACTIVITIES Bask in the gentle winter sunshine on the private beach or chill in the infinity pool while lapping up the gorgeous city views.

Serious swimmers can head to the hotel's indoor pool to rack up some lengths. Plus, if you're a parent in need of some quiet time, you can call upon Dukesy Kids' Club to entertain the little ones while you take the chance to explore, or simply catch up on those zzz's on a sunlounger.

To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com 62 worldtravellermagazine.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel THE ROOMS & SUITES Wake up in the clouds and revel in stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites boast marshmallow soft beddings and soundproof windows for a serene slumber, while Executive Rooms come with perks including complimentary drinks, a continental breakfast and afternoon tea in the Executive Lounge.

THE FOOD Foodies are spoilt for choice with more than 14 dining venues on offer. Splurge on a unique sky-high dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault. To spice it up, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves traditional Indian recipes with a contemporary twist.

Meanwhile, the recently opened Garden invites you to a fiesta of culinary delights with its zesty Latin American flavours.

THE ACTIVITIES Discover the shiniest gems the city has to offer with top attractions including The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai Opera right around the corner. After a day out and about, pamper yourself back at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray Spa. Signature hammam treatments, bespoke facials and holistic rituals draw upon the spa's Arabian heritage for a topto-toe rejuvenating experience.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 64 worldtravellermagazine.com

Taco Society

Hola chicas!

Latino Gusto

Become part of this uber trendy society as you taste your way through 7 different kinds of tacos and get rewarded for coming back for more!

Every Tuesday from 5.30pm until midnight.

AED 15 per taco.

Enjoy unlimited selected drinks and 40% off on food Every Wednesday, from 7pm until 10pm.

Experience a proper backyard fiesta with tacos, churrasco on the table and live guacamole making.

This fun evening will be full of Latino vibes, great music and of course - delicious beverages!

AED 195 per person for food only.

AED 295 for a special Latin American beverage package Every Thursday from 7pm until 11.30pm

JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.3000 jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com | gardendxb

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UK

Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok

TAJ 51 BUCKINGHAM GATE SUITES AND RESIDENCES, LONDON

3 nights starting from USD 1,285 per person Includes: Spend 3 nights in a Falconers Two Bedroom Suite with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy 30% savings on your stay.

Valid from: Now until 31 March 2020.

USA

MONTAGE BEVERLY HILLS

3 nights starting from USD 1,285 per person

Includes: Spend 3 nights in a Premier Room.

Offer: Enjoy complimentary breakfast credit of $75 per day.

Valid from: Now until 31 March 2020.

VARU by Atmosphere

AUSTRALIA

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SYDNEY

3 nights starting from USD 550 per person

Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences, London

Includes: Enjoy 4 nights in a Premier City Room.

Offer: Stay for 4 nights, pay for 3.

Valid from: 01 April 2020 to 31 March 2021. Book by 29 February 2020. worldtravellermagazine.com 67

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

Sofitel Bahrain Zallaq Thalassa Sea and Spa

WEEKEND ESCAPES UAE

HILTON DUBAI AL HABTOOR CITY 1 night starting from USD 138 per person Includes: Spend 1 night in a Guest Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy savings on our stay.

Valid from: Now until 23 April 2020.

V HOTEL CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON 1 night starting from USD 150 per person Includes: Enjoy 1 night in a Deluxe Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy savings on your stay.

Valid from: Now until 23 April 2020.

INTERCONTINENTAL FUJAIRAH RESORT 3 nights starting from USD 195 per person Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe Ocean View Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy savings on stay, complimentary room upgrade and 15% discount at the spa.

Valid from: Now until 29 February 2020.

CROWNE PLAZA ABU DHABI - YAS ISLAND 1 night starting from USD 130 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Superior Room with breakfast.

Offer: Access to either Warner Bros, Yas Waterworld or Ferrari World.

Valid from: Now until 30 April 2020.

How to book

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HABTOOR PALACE DUBAI, LXR HOTELS & RESORTS 1 night starting from USD 170 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Deluxe Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy savings on your stay.

Valid from: Now until 05 May 2020.

MÖVENPICK IBN BATTUTA GATE HOTEL DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 95 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Classic Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy 30% savings on your stay and a 20% discount on food and beverages.

Valid from: Now until 28 February 2020.

Al Bustan Palace, a Ritz-Carlton Hotel

Hilton Dubai Al Habtoor City

Bahrain

SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ THALASSA SEA AND SPA 2 night starting from USD 240 per person Includes: Enjoy 2 nights in a Superior Room with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy 10% savings on your stay.

Valid from: Now until 31 December 2020.

InterContinental Fujairah Resort

Oman

AL BUSTAN PALACE, A RITZ-CARLTON HOTEL 2 nights starting from USD 415 per person Includes: Stay 2 nights in a Deluxe Room Mountain View with breakfast.

Offer: Enjoy 20% Savings on your stay.

Valid from: Now until 29 February 2020.

By calling dnata on 800 DNATA

By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

THROUGH THE LENS Taj Mahal, India "I took this photograph two years ago. It was my first time visiting the Taj Mahal, and I had no idea that tripods were not allowed in.

So when I reached the entrance at sunrise, I was denied entry. At that point I decided to walk around and explore, which is when I saw a local man offering short boat rides. There was a couple standing in line and I asked if I could join them. What makes me love this photo is that it's a reminder that everything happens for a reason.

If I had never been denied entry, I would have never been able to take this photograph, nor would I have become friends with the couple, whom I'm still in touch with to this day."

Travel and photography fan Elliott Chau loves to travel because: "It allows you to discover more about yourself and the world around you."

Follow him at @LifewithElliott, lifewithelliott.com

EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmedia.me and you may end up being featured on this page

70 worldtravellermagazine.com

DIGITAL

Now win!

BE OUR TRAVEL COMPANION

Stay up-to-date with all that’s happening on our social channels and join in the conversation by sharing your experiences. Here’s where you can find us…

@worldtravellerme Double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall. @WorldTravellerME Stay up to date with travel stories as we post them. @WTravellerME Make the most of your 280-character allowance by sharing your best travel moments with us. #WorldTravellerME

A two-night stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort Occupying a premium spot on the East Crescent of Palm Jumeriah, this Thai-style resort is famous for its luxurious overwater villas. Guests can enjoy dining at Pan Asian restaurant Mekong, or rejuvenate with a traditional hammam treatment at the spa. We've teamed up to offer one lucky reader a two-night stay complete with a spa treatment. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…

1

The Knowledge.

Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.

2

Staycations.

Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep, and then book your next mini break.

3

Insider guides.

Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.

worldtravellermagazine.com 71

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

JUNIOR SUITE

Parker Palm Springs, California A decadent retreat in a tropical Palm Springs setting, the beautifully deigned Junior Suite at this lush resort has everything you need for a blissful stay. Throw open the terrace doors and let the balmy breeze wash over you as you laze on the four-poster bed, or unwind in one of the vibrant red easy chairs with your feet propped up on a gold lamé poof. A cheerful added extra, the supersized 'party shower' gives you plenty of space to splash around in.

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AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD, WHERE THE SKY SWIMS IN SEA BLUE th is is lan d s an ctu ary welcomes you with breez e an d birds on g, can dlelit din n ers an d in fin ite views .

J u s t daydreams away from th e bu z z of th e capital, you can los e you rs elf in th e peacefu l lu xu ry of you r own perfect u n ivers e.

YOUR E X T RAORDI NA RY STORY

Zaya Nurai Island Resort #InAbuDhabi

visitabudhabi.ae

Inspiration. Expertly crafted.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.

The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, 17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular Meeting Spaces.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com