World Traveller - September'18 by Hot Media

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 125 | SEPTEMBER 2018 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Island Bound

Produced in Dubai Production City

Set sail to Croatiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quieter shores

MILAN IRELAND SLOVENIA NASHVILLE

5:28PM The moment you let a culture take you places. The Middle East is where encounters form bonds; where conversations become discoveries; where curiosity is rewarded with treasured memories. It is this spirit that inspires every Fairmont Hotel & Resort to be your gateway into a world of enchantment as you discover how far your curiosity can take you.

Gateway to your moment in over 20 countries. fairmont.com

MM AA M UU A RMR IUA TIRM T IUU IIA R TU SIU S U TRISU I TSI U S S TSATRA STT RA T C SRO TCTA LOR L C SLE TO TLC A E L CTR L C O IE T T N LC IG L C NTE O G IYC N LO T Y G LU IO ENR Y C UG O T R BU IY E N BR O SG EU TB SR YE T MO SB O M U TE M O RS M E M TB O NEE M TNSSO ETTN M S OM TE N O S O NNM T OSE NN OTNS O N WW WW W W.W W BW .EW BA W E. C B A W W H E C.C A W H BO C C EW H M A O.C B C M BO E H E BR M C A E.O B C R CE H M .O CR C B M O .O E CMR M O.B M CEORM. C O M

Picture taken at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa

Where Where Where the the the Beauty Beauty Beauty ofofthe of the the place place place inspires inspires inspires the the the Beauty Beauty Beauty ofofthe of the the heart heart heart

WELCOME NOTE

THIS MONTH’S TRAVEL COMPANIONS

The summer holidays may be over but you needn't let the sun set on your globetrotting adventures. We've got plenty to inspire your next break away, from the far-flung to regional gems. In this issue, we set sail to Croatia’s quieter shores (page 38) in search of laid-back lunches, sun-soaked swimming sessions and smashing views. Plus, we take the passenger seat on Alicia

Managing Director

Burrell's six-day road trip along west Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

Victoria Thatcher

(page 54). Read her feature to find out whether the captivating

Editorial Director

landscape rids her of her nerves behind the wheel. Next, we

John Thatcher

invite you to get caught-up in the rhythm of Katie Bowman's

Group Commercial Director

musical tour of Nashville and New Orleans (page 46).

David Wade

If a chic European city break calls, read our locals' guide to

Managing Editor

Milan (page 30), which offers a fresh take on the bustling city.

Faye Bartle

And if you want to immerse yourself in nature, a mini break to

faye@hotmediapublishing.com

Slovenia could be just the ticket (page 64).

Sub-Editor

p24 ANTHONY GENOVESE of Rome's twoMichelin-star Il Pagliaccio

Wherever you're heading to, and however long it takes to

Salil Kumar

get there, we wish you a fantastic trip. If you have a great

Art Director

travel photograph you want to share, we invite you to tag us on

Kerri Bennett

Instagram by using the hashtag #dnataworldtraveller.

p26

Intrepid adventurer BEN FOGLE tells us how it feels to conquer Everest

Designer Jamie Pudsey

Happy travels,

Senior Advertising Manager

Faye Bartle

Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com Production Manager Muthu Kumar

Find us at… ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller

p29 Forever Rose London's EBRAHEEM AL SAMADI shops Abu Dhabi

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p69 Full-time travellers DAVID and NADIA ASLAM share their best moments

COVER IMAGE Kayaking out to sea, with a view of Dubrovnik's ancient city walls. Getty Images

World Traveller 5

UNCOVER EVEN MORE FUN AND THRILLS THIS SUMMER! Add more rides with more time spent in the water, subtract waiting in line and multiply it all by the perfect location. Now thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what we call the ultimate formula for fun! Hurry and come out to Wild Wadi for a day of unbeatable fun with family and friends. *Terms and conditions apply. Buy your ticket online today on wildwadi.com or call us on +971 4 348 4444

CONTENTS September 2018 22 Thailand

REGULARS

10 TRAVEL GOALS

17 GLOBETROTTER

Adventures in Alquézar, tree- Escape to the British countryside, climbing goats in Morocco, and Thailand's female-friendly allure, an imposing Easter Island ahu and this month's trending places

24 CHEF’S TOP TABLES

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

Anthony Genovese of Rome's two-Michelin-star Il Pagliaccio reveals the restaurants he rates

Ben Fogle on climbing Everest and how fatherhood has changed his perspective on travel

SHOP MY CITY

THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO MILAN

SUITE DREAMS

Forever Rose London's Ebraheem Al Samadi fills us in on the shopping scene in Abu Dhabi

Our trio of in-the-know residents tell us how to put our best foot forward in this chic city

Immerse yourself in historic London from within the Hamilton Penthouse at Corinthia Hotel London World Traveller 7

CONTENTS

Boyeeghter Bay on Ireland's Rosguill peninsula

FEATURES

HOME AND AWEIGH

HONKY TONK WOMAN

EMERALD MILES

Island hopping with a difference – Linda Cookson and friends set sail to Croatia’s quieter shores

If you dig American music (or food, or history), a trip combining Nashville and New Orleans will top your charts

Nervous driver Alicia Burrell sets off solo along west Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

WEEKENDS

A LONG WEEKEND

MY GREAT ESCAPES

STAYCATIONS

READER OFFERS

IN SLOVENIA

David and Nadia Aslam park up their 1969 VW Adventurewagen and share their holiday snaps

Enjoy a well-deserved weekend away at these luxurious hotels and resorts

Take advantage of our exclusive deals for your next adventure

Explore this unspoilt, naturally stunning slip of a country

8 World Traveller

ALQUÉZAR, SPAIN

It's natural to want to pause and admire the view of this picturesque medieval village in the foothills of the Pyrenees, but the area is actually a draw card for adventure seekers. Located in the province of Huesca, within the Sierra y Cañones de Guara Natural Park, Alquézar invites you to explore its stunning natural landscape. From hiking the labyrinthine lanes up to the imposing Collegiate Castle of Santa María la Mayor, to taking part in thrilling activities such as canyoning, horse riding and mountain biking, this Spanish sojourn will be anything but sleepy.

10 World Traveller

TRAVEL GOALS

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TAKE ME THERE

12 World Traveller

TRAVEL GOALS

TREE-CLIMBING GOATS, MOROCCO

Did you know that goats can climb trees? Neither did we, until we saw this photograph of an argan tree in Morocco that's practically overflowing with the curious animals nestled in its crooked branches. They're not lost. It's actually a common sight in the southwest Moroccan desert. The little bleaters are attracted to the tree's bitter fruit, which looks like a small golden apple. They find them so tasty that they gobble them down whole and (to cut a long story short) the undigested nut is a great source of argan oil. The goats can spend hours grazing and it's common to spot them by the roadside. There are lots of local places that are happy to offer travellers an insight into the argan oil extraction process.

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TAKE ME THERE

14 World Traveller

TRAVEL GOALS

AHU TONGARIKI, EASTER ISLAND, CHILE

Having weathered the centuries (with thanks to intensive restoration and conservation efforts), the fascinating moai statues on this remote, volcanic Polynesian island are the legacy of their ancient creators. It's thought that the monolithic human figures, carved by the early Rapa Nui people from the 10th to the 16th century, were created to honour ancestors, chiefs, or other influential people. Each clan strived to have the most beautiful ahu (ceremonial platform), with the statues placed with their backs to the sea to protect the islanders with their power. The entire island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is mesmerising, but be sure to pay a visit to Tongariki, the largest ahu, which has 15 imposing moai, each with its own distinctive features.

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SEPTEMBER

Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there

AN AUTUMNAL GLOW Decorative lanterns, lion dances and mooncakes aplenty mark the MidAutumn Festival on 24 September, which is observed by countries across Southeast Asia. This harvest festival, celebrated since the early Tang dynasty (618â&#x20AC;&#x201C;907), sees friends and family gather to give thanks. Also on our radar, we escape to the British countryside (p18) and share some easy ways to hang on to the summer holiday feeling (p20)â&#x20AC;Ś

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GLOBETROTTER

Escape to the country For a breath of fresh air, it doesn't get much better than the British countryside, and Four Seasons Hampshire delivers an idyllic stay Make some new friends

Set in a restored 18th-century manor on 500 acres of rolling hills in Dogmersfield Park, this historic hotel is like something out of a storybook – it’s easy to understand why Hampshire played an important role in the life of Jane Austen. Find your own literary inspiration by taking a stroll through the walled garden, or cycling to the Basingstoke Canal. Choose a signature Heritage Room for impressive views of the estate.

Horse-riding, pony grooming and falconry are just some of the activities on offer that’ll earn you some furry friends. The hotel is dog-friendly too, and has its own resident pooch, Labrador Oliver Beckington.

Feed yourself well Getting your quota of seasonal, locally-sourced food is easy at Wild Carrot, which puts a contemporary twist on British classics. If you want to linger

over your meal, we say drop the little ones at the kids’ club, where crafting and treasure hunts are order of the day.

While the estate is grand, it's very family-friendly, with ample space to roam and picnics available upon request

The very best bits Rooms are stunning, the staff are accommodating (on checkout day our five-year-old's toy alien was 'hatched' in a glass of water kept at reception), there are family-friendly hours in the swimming pool, and a it's just a 15-minute taxi ride to the beautiful village of Farnham.

The original manor and the village are mentioned in William the Conqueror’s Domesday Book of 1086

The limited-edition Françoise Gilot. Three Travel Sketchbooks: Venice, India, Senegal charts the French artist's travels between 1974 and 1981. It’s a visual feast of direct impressions and abstract reflections of the destinations, and one for any seasoned traveller’s coffee table. From TASCHEN, taschen.com. 18 World Traveller

Photo credits: Peter Vitale / Four Seasons

To the manor born

GLOBETROTTER

HANG ON TO THAT HOLIDAY FEELING So the kids are back at school and you’ve ransacked your annual leave; you can still plan an exhilarating mini break. These fresh experiences on your doorstep will help you keep the vacation vibe alive, while staying closer to home…

Cruise the Gulf of Oman

Picnic in Salalah

Discover the waterways of Musandam aboard a traditional, hand-crafted Omani dhow. Six Senses Zighy Bay’s 28-metre Dhahab vessel (pictured) can accommodate up to six people, and offers awesome activities – think tailor-made dives, speedboat tours of the fjords, and handline fishing – during a threeday, two-night stay.

September marks the tail end of the rainy Khareef season in Salalah, so why not wave goodbye to the humidity and cool off in Southern Dhofar? The chefs at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara will make you a gourmet picnic to enjoy while off on an adventure, such as the 4x4 expedition to discover ancient villages.

Tick a world wonder off your wish list Not seen Egypt’s pyramids up-close yet? At Conrad Cairo you can now ride a camel into the desert for a calmer, more authentic perspective of the ancient site. A relaxing massage back at the hotel is also part of the experience.

AD 20 World Traveller

UAE RESIDENTS VISITING AZERBAIJAN CAN NOW GET A TOURIST VISA FOR ONE MONTH UPON ARRIVAL AT ANY OF THE COUNTRY’S AIRPORTS. BAKU, HERE WE COME!

JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali. Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis. To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or email crome@anantara.com

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA

GLOBETROTTER

Pick up one of these limitededition Tan Elephant Mini Bags, featuring beadwork by Samburu women from Northern Kenya, and you’ll be helping to support elephant conservation projects in Africa and Asia. A collaboration between LOEWE and Knot On My Planet, it is available at loewe.com

THE HOT LIST

Trending Places

YOU GO, GIRL The number of solo female travellers is on the rise. If you’re wondering where to head on your next adventure, consider following in the footsteps of Emirati personality Taim AlFalasi who rates Thailand as a top female-friendly destination. Tourism Authority Thailand shares three ideas on what to see and do while you're there…

1 Culture spot. Chiang Mai is an extremely artistically and visually-rich city that should be at the top of your to-do list. Go on a guided tour of the city’s art galleries, visit the bustling night market, or explore the historic wats (Buddhist temples). 22 World Traveller

2 Be a foodie in Bangkok. With plenty of halal-friendly options available, in the vibrant capital you can enjoy everything from fine dining in fancy restaurants to sampling authentic street food, and take a cooking class to master traditional Thai dishes.

3 Try a new sport. Brush up on your martial arts by taking part in women-only Muay Thai training classes. It’s just one of the many sporting activities on offer across the country that are geared especially towards women.

dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, Emily Williams, shares the inside track on where to go this month… The weather's great in California at this time of year, with the beach communities of Malibu, Santa Monica, San Pedro and Marina Del Ray gaining momentum. Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica offers the perfect 'SoCal' beach stay. An increasing number of travellers are looking to Montenegro for an ‘off the beaten path’ experience. Prepare to be amazed by its mountainscapes, secluded beaches and medieval towns. Continuing to draw crowds to Singapore, Marina Bay Sands is an architectural marvel, featuring the world’s highest rooftop infinity pool and a host of epic shopping, dining and entertainment venues. One of the UK’s most vibrant cities, Manchester is popular right now. Stay at the stylish Hilton Manchester Deansgate, which is close to Old Trafford football stadium.

FOOD

CHEF’S TOP TABLES Anthony Genovese travelled around the world for his career, before taking the road to Rome to launch the two-Michelin-star Il Pagliaccio

On my wish list…

The three-Michelin-star Benu in San Francisco. Chef Corey Lee has created a fascinating menu, where Asian meets Western cuisine in a cosmopolitan city

EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA Catalonia I had the pleasure of eating at this three Michelin-star restaurant by the Roca brothers in 2012. Their kitchen reveals a total passion for the art of cooking and hospitality. The place is a temple of Spanish and world cuisine. FAVOURITE DISH: Meat with blanquette sauce with mango terrine, melon, beetroot, and concentrated orange.

MAAEMO Oslo

GAGGAN Bangkok

The new Nordic cuisine has unquestionably influenced world gastronomy. One of the most significant in doing so is Maaemo. Although I am not particularly attracted to Nordic cuisine, I visited Maaemo in 2017 and it was a truly unforgettable dinner. FAVOURITE DISH: A surprising snack is the caramelised Jerusalem artichoke with blood and lemon thyme.

I love the East, and South East Asia above all. On one of my many trips to Thailand, I had dinner at Gaggan in downtown Bangkok. Chef Anand Gaggan has brought a unique energy to his restaurant, demonstrating a desire for freedom that goes beyond the traditional Indian or Asian cuisine. FAVOURITE DISH: I can recommend the lamb tandoori. It's simply perfect.

COME DINE WITH ME... In Italy, and in all families of Italian origin, cooking is a ritual. The ritual in my family concerned stockfish so hard that my grandfather had to cut it with a saw before putting it to soak in water for three days. I remember the wait well, the emotion and, finally, the wonderful smell. I retrace that memory with a dish in my restaurant today: ‘Remembering Nonno Fosso’ (or ziti with stockfish and artichokes). Remembering Nonno Fosso

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PERSONALITY

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

BEN FOGLE The intrepid adventurer, broadcaster and best-selling author shares his travel wisdom and how it feels to conquer Everest I’ve rowed the Atlantic Ocean, crossed Antarctica on foot, run across the Sahara and traversed the Empty Quarter on camel. When my wife Marina and I had our first child eight years ago, however, I drew a line under the major expeditions. But Climbing Everest had always been a deep-rooted, burning passion. I wanted to do it to confront my own fears and to show my children, Ludo and Iona, that when you put your mind to it, anything is possible. My trek with [Olympic cyclist] Victoria Pendleton in support of the British Red Cross in May was the culmination of years of hard work and the realisation of a childhood dream. Reaching the summit is almost impossible to put into words. I can’t begin to explain how beautiful the view is. It was an other-worldly experience. I’ve travelled extensively but I’ve always loved South America – Bolivia in particular. There is something very exciting about the Andes and Bolivia is like the country the world forgot. A sense of stillness can also be experienced in Dorset, where I grew up – a beautiful rural area in the South West of England. It’s farming country with a dramatic coastline called the Jurassic coast that appears as if it has been frozen in time. When travelling, I always cross my fingers when the plane takes off and lands. I’m not particularly superstitious but I’ve been doing it for years now and I don’t think I can ever stop. Fatherhood is the greatest thing that has ever happened to me – it has given me a new perspective on travel. Now, my primary role in life is as a dad, and adventure and travel is secondary. Of course, I love taking my children away with me. They have already been to places as eclectic as Mozambique, Sri Lanka and Tanzania. Tragically four years ago, my wife and I had a still-birth, and that experience made us both re-evaluate and appreciate things far more. It was a reminder that life is precious and to live life to the full in memory of this little boy who wasn’t able to experience these things himself. I’m yet to visit Madagascar, but it’s at the top of my wish list. I can’t wait to finally get there. A documentary charting Ben and Victoria’s Everest attempt, The Challenge: Everest, recently aired on CNN International, cnn.com 26 World Traveller

FAIRMONT HOTELS & RESORTS X WORLD TRAVELLER

Tailor-made trips From taking a walk on the wild side on safari in Kenya to soaking up the iconic sights of Egypt's River Nile, Fairmont delivers iconic travel experiences to remember

n unforgettable journey is more than just the sum of its parts; it is influenced by the connections you make along the way. Fairmont Hotels & Resorts is renowned for helping travellers create special memories, from sharing cherished moments with friends and family to finding ways to weave yourself into the social fabric of the locale and making a genuine connection with the hotel staff. Born in 1907 in San Francisco, the Fairmont brand boasts more than 70 hotels around Fairmont Fujairah the world, including Beach Resort the iconic The Plaza in New York, The Savoy in London, and Fairmont The Palm in Dubai. Part of AccorHotels, Fairmont is historically a hideaway for the rich and famous and today is known for its unique brand of approachable luxury. Sustainability is at the top of the agenda, with carbon neutral choices for guests (think linen napkins, china and glassware instead of disposables), and a global mandate to donate untouched food to local food banks. Its Willow Stream Spas follow the lead, offering locallyinspired treatments designed to energise. So where do you start? In the UAE, your options include Fairmont Dubai, which is just 10 minutes from glamorous Downtown Dubai and is home to Noire, the Middle Eastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only 'dine in the dark' concept. Fairmont Bab Al Bahr in Abu Dhabi is perfectly positioned for you to admire the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amazing architecture, with great views of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and luxurious touches at every turn, from the Olympic-length swimming pool to the Marco Pierre White restaurant from the former three-Michelin-

star British chef. For sunshine and stunning white sand beaches, Fairmont Ajman has cleverly maintained a low profile as an idyllic staycation spot with mangroves, museums and malls on the doorstep. Lastly, Fairmont Fujairah Beach Resort is a draw card for nature fans, with the dramatic Al Hajar Mountains as its backdrop and fascinating archeological and heritage sites nearby that beg discovery. If embarking on safari appeals, you can follow in the footsteps of film star William Holden, who enjoyed his African adventure in 1959 so much that he bought the resort he was staying at. It lives on to this day as the exclusive Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club, located within the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy. Here you can live your wildest dreams by taking part in game viewing on horseback, trekking to Mount Kenya base camp or simply playing a round on the 9-hole golf course (the only one in Africa to bisect the equator). The Conservancy cares for and rehabilitates animals and breeds rare and endangered species, such as mountain Bongo antelope, for eventual release. If soaking up the Nile is on your wish list, Fairmont Nile City in Cairo is hard to beat, with its sweeping vista of the river and the Pyramids. In Jordan, you can base yourself in the glitzy Abdoun district at Fairmont Amman, which has six restaurants and a Fairmont Gold Lounge with great city views. Be sure to pay a visit to the spa, which has one of the best hammams in the region and a Dead Sea Pool offering pampering mud treatments.

Fairmont Bab Al Bahr

Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club

Fairmont Amman

Fairmont Nile City

Visit fairmont.com to find out more. World Traveller 27

EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE. Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.

HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 971 4 832 9900 OR VISIT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/ALMAHA

SHOPPING Clockwise from left: Forever Rose London; Bottega Veneta Fall Winter 18; a Tiffany Blue Box® © Tiffany & Co; The Galleria on Al Maryah Island

SHOP MY CITY

Abu Dhabi

Ebraheem Al Samadi, Founder and CEO of Forever Rose London shares his take on the UAE capital’s shopping hotspots Abu Dhabi has adapted to the modern world, while retaining aspects of the past, and scattered street shopping is a prominent characteristic. The city consists of a number of little zones that are specific to a trade, like the Carpet Souk in Al Mina. These have been established over time and add to the cultural core of the city. There are a lot of shopping mall options for your dayto-day needs, but The Galleria on Al Maryah Island will cover all your luxury cravings. The mall provides a good selection of designer labels, such as Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta and Gucci, along with an extensive range of designer jewellery brands, including Tiffany & Co. and Cartier. Plus, when Al Maryah Central Mall opens on the island, it’ll be home to the first Macy’s outside of the US. One of my favourite homegrown brands is The Exposed House

(theexposedhouse.com). It stocks everything from clothing and accessories to home décor and I’m a big fan of the menswear collections they carry. The clothing is very comfortable, and the styles are different to what you’d find on the high-street. For concept stores and souvenirs, I would suggest heading to Yas Mall. Due to the variety of theme parks located on Yas Island, you will definitely find a selection of traditional and more contemporary souvenir options there to take back home to family and friends. If you’re going to any of the major malls in the city, you can’t bargain with the shop assistants. However, if you decide to shop anywhere in downtown Abu Dhabi, don’t miss the opportunity to haggle as it can be fun, and who doesn’t love walking away with a great deal? Forever Rose London has recently opened a boutique at The Galleria on Al Maryah Island

“Little shopping zones add to the cityʼs cultural core” Yas Mall

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LOCALS’ GUIDE

THE LOCALS' GUIDE TO

Milan Chic restaurants, edgy boutiques and striking art and design – our three insiders reveal how best to explore Italy’s fashion-forward metropolis

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

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LOCALS’ GUIDE

RARE FINDS It’s not all haute fashion in Milan. Jewellery designer and vintage lover Madina Visconti (madinavisconti. com) shares her go-to list of eclectic gems Cavalli e Nastri This vintage clothing store, which is located in my neighbourhood, is the best place to go for retro-clothing lovers like me. It’s where I’ve found all my favourite must-haves, like long vintage skirts to mix and match with other pieces. I also recently picked up a beautiful green and purple printed dress there for a wedding. Via Gian Giacomo Mora 12, cavallienastri.com Arjumand This is a lovely little store next door to my atelier. It has wonderful textiles and wallpapers all made by the owner, Idarica Gazzoni. I bought two huge straw chandeliers for my kitchen and many different fabrics for my apartment. My favourite one is the ‘animalier’ print. Via Santa Marta 8/b, arjumandsworld.com Six Gallery This is a super cool new furniture gallery owned by designers Fanny and David. I spend a lot of my spare time there. Apart from the amazing gallery, they have a little bistro and a flower market. Via Scaldasole 7, six-gallery.com Mercatino Penelope This store is dedicated to vintage design. I’ve bought two pink-satin armchairs and a 1970s turquoise opaline table lamp there. Each time I visit I am surprised, as they never have the same things. Via M. Melloni 6, mercatinopenelope.it Gum I love getting my hair styled at this place. You can literally make yourself at home, as it is styled as a real vintage home. Plus, they offer you a glass of red or white and are always happy to have a chat. C.so Italia 46, gumsalon.com World Traveller 31

LOCALS’ GUIDE

Must-dos for outdoor space designer Derek Castiglioni (@derek castiglioni) include historical sights, exhibitions and secret gardens A morning walk: Start the day with coffee at Fioraio Bianchi Caffè (Via Montebello 7, fioraiobianchicaffe.it). Be seated among the flowers and plants and enjoy the bohemian atmosphere. From here, you can tour the alleyways of Brera: a well-known artists’ neighbourhood home to design boutiques, art galleries and wonderful old buildings. Don’t miss a visit to Pinacoteca di Brera (Via Brera 28, pinacotecabrera.org) where you can see famous artworks by Andrea Mantegna, Giovanni Bellini, Caravaggio and many more. Stop for a rest in Orto Botanico di Brera, located behind the Pinacoteca – this little botanic garden paradise has a charming vibe. Lunch with a view: One of my favourite places for lunch is Terrazza Triennale on

Funky Table

32 World Traveller

the rooftop of La Triennale di Milano museum (Palazzo della Triennale, Viale Alemagna 6, triennale.org). It has a breathtaking view of Parco Sempione and the Porta Nuova district – a very strategic location that is an example of how the city is changing without losing tradition. After lunch, you can discover the museum. Grand designs: Spazio Rossana Orlandi (Via Matteo Bandello 14/16, rossanaorlandi.com) is a lovely gallery and retail store curated by Rossana Orlandi, who presents established designers and new or emerging talents. Next, head to Nilufar Depot (Viale Vincenzo Lancetti 34, nilufar.com) for design-focused gallery pieces. Afterwards, try Funky Table (Via Santa Marta 19, funkytable.it) for lovely table setting pieces. It’s located in the 5VIE district, which is well-known for eclectic boutiques (5vie.it). Dining out: For an apéritif, my favourite place is Bar Basso (Via Plinio 39, barbasso.com), which is popular with creatives and fashionistas. Another place to be is Ceresio 7 (Via Ceresio 7, ceresio7. com), where you can sip poolside at sunset. For dinner, try Restaurant Torre

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè

at Fondazione Prada, designed by Rem Koolhaas with Chris van Duijn and Federico Pompignoli (Via Lorenzini 14, fondazioneprada.org) – my advice is to go early to visit the exhibitions before dinner. If you prefer typical Milanese cuisine, Antica Osteria Stendhal (Via Ancona 1, osteriastendhal.it) serves the best risotto with ossobuco in the city.

Words: Michelle Wranik-Hicks

LA BELLA VITA

Ristorante Gong

DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS Chef Alessandro Buffolino (@alessand robuffolino) of Acanto Restaurant at Hotel Principe di Savoia shares a tempting gourmet itinerary

RISTORANTE GONG Corso Concordia 8, gongmilano.it I have known the chef, Kesuke, for 15 years now. The cuisine served is Chinese and you can dine on unique dishes and flavours. My favourite is the smoked amberjack.

RISTORANTE BERTON Via Mike Bongiorno 13, ristoranteberton.com Andrea Berton is one of the most important Italian chefs. His “tutto brodo” tasting menu is the reason to go at least once for dinner at his restaurant. It’s my favourite place for birthday celebrations.

1930 Facebook.com/1930milano This is a secret bar, which is really difficult to find unless you know the right people. I found out about it through word of mouth and you can only access it by saying a secret code word. With its speakeasy décor, it is the ideal place to relax with a good cigar.

LA GRIGLIA DI VARRONE Via Alessio di Tocqueville 7, grigliavarrone.com This is a typical Tuscan restaurant serving the best meat, grilled live in front of guests in the dining room. The décor is sleek with dark tones and great lighting.

ACANTO RESTAURANT Hotel Principe di Savoia, Piazza della Repubblica 17, dorchestercollection.com Maybe I’m biased, but Acanto has the best Sunday brunch in Milan, with live music, and excellent service and food. Try my signature dish, “pacchero cacio e pepe con ricordo dell’ossobuco”.

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PROMOTION

A fine romance Fall in love with Hilton Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa In need of a glamorous, grown-up escape? Bond fans will be thrilled to discover this resort, which inspired the setting of the novella, For Your Eyes Only, following a visit by author Ian Fleming in 1958. The adult-friendly boutique hotel on Mahé island teams tropical charm with five-star hospitality for a stay that even the most stoic secret agent would appreciate. Built before the First World War on an island largely uninhabited until the 18th century, the resort retains an air of mystery set amid the quiet coves of Mahé’s Beau Vallon Bay, with spacious private villas offering stunning views of the Indian Ocean. There’s a variety of villa styles and categories to choose from, but VIPs will be drawn towards the two-bedroom Northolme Villa, which features a private ocean-side pool (the largest in the north of Mahé), with panoramic views of Silhouette Island, the Indian Ocean and Beau Vallon Bay. Take a seat on the deck with a cocktail in hand and let your mind wander as the warm sea breeze washes over you. Adventure seekers can dive deep into the ocean to discover the vibrant aquatic life, go night fishing for sharks and Barracuda, or take a helicopter tour of the Seychelles archipelago. Plus, you can deepen your understanding of traditional Seychellois culture and heritage with a trip to Sir Selwyn SelwynClarke Market, which was built in 1840. If you want to do your bit to save the planet, a trip to the coral nursery in nearby Beau Vallon Bay is a must. This Hilton-led project is designed to protect and preserve 34 World Traveller

the marine and reef life along the island’s North-West coast by combatting the effects of coral bleaching, and strengthening the reef’s resilience against future ecodisasters. You can help make a difference by adopting some coral, before following the 650-metre-long snorkelling trail with a marine conservation specialist. Once your duty is done, Northolme isn’t short of sundowner spots. Order a drink, prepared just the way you like it, and indulge in one of the al fresco dining options, enjoying Creole-infused dishes under a starry night sky. To find out more, call +248 4 299 000, email sezhi.info@hilton.com or visit hilton.seychelles.com

One island

ONE RESORT

Set in the heart of a lost Eden, the only resort on Silhouette Island, Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa, offers a luxury hotel experience in a natural jungle setting. For more information, please call +248 4293949, email sezlb.reservations@hilton.com or visit seychelleslabriz.hilton.com

ÂŠ 2017 Hilton Worldwide

WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT

Easy breezy Escape the hustle and bustle of the city and unwind as the sea breeze cools you down at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

ity life is sure to keep you on your toes, and with the humidity showing little sign of abating it’s common to feel a bit claustrophobic during the hot summer months. Instead of waiting and wishing for the weather to change, why not indulge in a five-star break that’ll give you a much-needed chance to cool off? The luxurious, Thai-inspired Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort, located on Palm Jumeirah, is a favourite escape among Dubai’s discerning urbanites. Featuring the only Over Water Villas in the emirate, and rooms that offer direct access to three chilled swimming pools, the resort is the perfect retreat for when you're feeling hot and bothered. Set along a pristine private beach, the picturesque property draws you in with its serene vibe. Stash your suitcase

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in your room and feel the calming blue tones of the sea and the lagoon (there’s a viewing panel in the floor of the Over Water Villas) wash over you as you imagine submerging yourself in the water. Speaking of which, there are plenty of opportunities to take a dunk, with watersports such as scenic cruises and thrilling banana boat rides on tap. If you prefer to conserve your energy, head to Anantara Spa where an impressive line-up of rejuvenating treatments await. We recommend the Revitalising Citrus Drench (60 Minutes), which pampers sun-damaged skin with a blend of hydrating nutrients. Nourishment also comes in the form of seven dining venues, including the swimup Mai Bar where you can stick a straw in a coconut and feast on a fresh fruit platter in-between ducking under the seahorse

fountains. Asian restaurant Mekong is a stylish dinner setting with rickshawstyle seats and hand-carved wooden tables at which to taste exotic dishes. And while it may be too hot to dine along the beach, the view from international eatery Crescendo is just as stunning. Those travelling with kids in tow will be pleased to learn that little ones are well catered for with kids’ menus at each of the restaurants and a wide range of activities on offer, from tennis to watersports. Plus, children can join-in all the action-packed fun at the Tuk Tuk Kid’s Club, while teenagers can hang out at the Chill Teens Club – both are open daily. With something for everyone, a refreshing mini break could be just the ticket for seeing out the summer. To find out more, visit anantara.com

The spa has a luxurious Turkish Hammam

Inside an Over Water Villa

The Beach House restaurant is right on the shore

Mountain views from all-day dining restaurant Al Maisan

A tub with a view Retreat to the spa for a pampering treatment

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CROATIA

What could be better than a timeless mahogany villa in the Med? One with an anchor — and a captain — says Linda Cookson, who sets sail with friends to Croatia’s quieter shores

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CROATIA

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ild mulberry trees offered sweet, shady relief as we sat in the courtyard of Konoba Roki’s, high in the hills, contemplating the harbour waters of Vis Town, down below (which the eagle-eyed will note as a setting for big-screen smash Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again). Pitchers were brought, brimming with a little something deep red, robust and naughtily moreish. Dished from traditional pots on the ancient range at Roki’s, meat-and-veg stews (peka) appeared for our leisurely delectation. Rolled together it was a rare magical affair: a laid-back lunch with a lovely local flavour of Croatia beyond the crowded path. Somehow I don’t think we’d have found this Eden by ourselves. We owed the unique and beautiful encounter to the captain who’d welcomed us aboard Sedna, our classic vessel for the week, a few days earlier in the ancient city of Split. One of the least developed islands of the Dalmatian archipelago, Vis was retro, it was remote, it was romantic and it was exactly what we were after – me, my husband and our three friends, as we threaded our way among the islands of coastal Croatia last summer. Not that it was completely undeveloped... Soon after disembarking, we found ourselves gazing upon a lovingly tended cricket pitch that might have been exported from a village in England. It belonged to Vis CC, the oldest cricket club in Europe (outside the UK). There was something wonderfully nostalgic about it – and I’m sure we’d never have seen it if we hadn’t lunched at Konoba Roki’s. It’s Roki’s proprietor, Oliver – restaurateur and new best friend to us – who keeps this obscure slice of Vis sporting history alive, down to its scoreboard, teetering on a couple of old wine barrels. We were sorely tempted to stay on Vis, basking in its atmosphere, so gently aloof, so unspoilt by time and tourism. Well into the 20th century, men from the fishing village of Komiža were still relying on triangular-sailed wooden falkuša boats, built to a 1,000-year-old design. Then, between World War II and 1989, Vis was a military training base, closed to foreigners. Yet the longing to linger soon faded as Sedna set sail and our view of Vis receded, the hump of its tallest mountain wrapped

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Opening pages: swimming by an anchored sailboat near the Croatian coast. This page: Vis Town

CROATIA

‘We had the pleasure of ever-changing panoramas we’d never see from the land. Glimpsed shimmering from the deck of a boat, even metropolises have a silent, spiritual aura’

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CROATIA

in mist, like a mythical sea creature. It was the same feeling we’d get in the other ports we visited; after all, our gulet was the dream holiday home-from-home, delivering the comfy trappings of a beautiful villa, with a new setting each day, and spared us the headaches of inter-island ferry timetables. There was enough space (private and shared) to keep the five of us from falling over each other: three compact double cabins, a smart mahogany-lined saloon with gleaming brass trim, and a teak deck area furnished with comfortable sunbeds. There were buoyancy aids and snorkelling kits, which we leapt upon, of course – we had our own personal swimming pool for miles around us in the form of the sun-warmed Adriatic. We had, too, the pleasure of everchanging panoramas we’d never see from the land. Glimpsed shimmering from the deck of a boat, even metropolises have a silent, spiritual aura. And so, as our holiday began, Sedna setting off across the lagoon from Split, Croatia’s second city, we were mesmerised by the sun as it started to dip seawards. The cafés on the palm-lined Riva promenade popped and fizzed with yellow lights, and the waterfront parade of historic buildings blurred into a long rosy frieze. The sea-facing walls of Diocletian’s Palace – the Old Town’s crumbly Roman city-within-a-city – glowed red-gold, and the belfry of Saint Domnius Cathedral stood proud. From our private balcony, it looked like a giant crown on the shrinking horizon. That first night was spent on a nearby island, Solta (pronounced ‘Shollta’). We awoke from an uninterrupted, dreamless sleep to eat breakfast underneath the pines: crusty bread, jams and bacon pancakes served by Sedna’s obliging team. Being spoiled rotten is another benefit of a gulet holiday. Out with the painful rotas for supermarket shopping or washing-up that comes with self-catering. In with a week of disgraceful decadence, as the chef, Dario, conjured up grilled lunches

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and rainbow salads in the tiny galley. We appeared to be sailing through our own movie, the world around our boat a screen of images streaming seamlessly from one into the next. I recall how, leaving Solta harbour, we passed an elderly straw-hatted fisherman, ambling down to a makeshift pontoon with his Golden Labrador to board a little blue boat. The dog settled into the prow on lookout duty, one ear cocked, one down. His master took the tiller and smiled, doffing his hat – a moment it would have been rude to photograph, so one I will retain in my head. Along Solta’s rocky seaboard, we saw seabirds chasing their own shadows across the speckled stone face of the cliffs. Seen from the water, the coastal scenery, ever-shifting in tone and texture, became hypnotic. Time, like the gulet itself, moved slowly, the pace of life winding down, and we found ourselves noticing things more (and noticing more things). Crossing a narrow channel from Solta, we headed for Brač, (‘Bratch’ if you’re saying it out loud), our next port of call and the third largest of Croatia’s islands. As we hugged its steep coast, swathes of pine forest gave way to near-vertical vineyards and olive groves spilling to pebble coves. Then came Blaca bay, overhung by an astonishing 16th-century hermitage that seemed to rise organically from the rock. Captain Zoran reeled off the credentials held by Brač, and its most photographed beach, Zlatni Rat (the Golden Horn), a great tongue of pale shingle backed by pines, sticking out to sea, made famous by many a brochure. Brač's other claim to fame is its fine white marble, which was incorporated in places into the construction of the White House, in Washington, DC. Sedna’s anchorage on Brač that evening was Bol Town, right next to the creamy lick of Zlatni Rat and the first of many chic little resorts to seduce us on our odyssey. As evening fell, we staked our claim on a table at Pumparela, an upbeat restaurant

CROATIA

andthe dragonflies dance as Ida ‘Streets‘Butterflies fell away from waterfront, shining inexplains the moonlight, different types of balconied rice’ a parade of leafyabout limestone arcades and buildings’

This page, clockwise from top: Bolt Town at dusk; Split, as viewed from the deck of the Sedana; peka, a traditional Croatian stew. Next page: Zlatni Rat

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Time, like the gulet itself, moved slowly, the pace of life winding down, and we found ourselves noticing things moreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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Credit: Linda Cookson / Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

CROATIA

on a quayside of palms festooned with fairy lights. Streets fell away from the waterfront, shining in the moonlight, a parade of leafy limestone arcades and balconied buildings. We raised a toast to a perfect day over tuna steaks served sizzling from volcanic stones. ‘Zivjeli!’ prompted our waiter. ‘Zivjeli!’ we responded, clinking glasses. The week unfolded and the days took on patterns: swimming, sightseeing, deck-lounging and (since for some reason we’d developed enormous appetites) lots of eating. Evening meals we took ashore, following tips from Zoran, whose local knowledge came into its own towards the halfway point. One afternoon, after we’d called in at photogenic-but-busy Hvar island, Sedna went off-grid for Sveti Klement (Saint Clement), a pinprick close by. It is one of the Pakleni islands, named after paklina, a local resin or pitch extracted from pine and once used for sealing ships and boats. A noticeboard translated the island chain as ‘Hell’s Islands’, but nothing could be further from the truth. On Sveti Klement we stepped into a fairy-tale family estate blessed with exuberant gardens and a sandy beach: Palmižana, home to the arty Meneghello family, which acquired it in the late 18th century. In 1906, Eugen Meneghello, a botanist, planted exotic tropical species among Mediterranean trees and shrubs. The gardens have matured into a butterfly-tickled Eden of rock samphire and sea lavender in lemon and lilac explosions, entangled by an otherworldly forest of giant cactus trees, ferns and pines. Guest summerhouses complete the picture, along with peacocks and brightly coloured sculptures and artwork. We tiptoed through Jurassic cycad fronds and shoals of psychedelic ceramic mermaids to emerge at a garden restaurant. After we’d dined, Romina Meneghello, daughter of the current matriarch, showed us the estate’s contemporary art gallery. ‘I thought you’d rather like it,’ said Zoran, modestly, when we stepped back on board, moonstruck, as night fell over Palmižana and Sedna. Beyond the harbour headland, in darkness, more unexplored forested islands waited to receive us – tomorrow promised to unfurl again for us like a treasure map. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 45

HONKY-TONK

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NASHVILLE & NEW ORLEANS

Laura Whateley finds her feet in Buenos Aires

WOMAN From blues to bluegrass, if you dig American music (or food, or history), a trip combining Nashville and New Orleans will top your charts, says Katie Bowman

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ome friendships are fuelled by food. Others, by work. Ours runs on music. At 16, Paula and I made mix-tapes for each other, recording lyrics obsessively in our teenage bedrooms. At 21, we bought CDs for shiny new Discmans. At 30, it was lounge bars and after-shows, now we had the money for tickets and access to venues. So how do you celebrate a ‘big’ birthday together (I can’t even commit the number to page), when one of you now commutes around the world, and the other has a young family? Music. Obviously. And that is how we chose sound capitals Nashville and New Orleans, like so many music pilgrims before us – cramming country, jazz, soul, bluegrass, rock, hip-hop, big band, blues, folk and pop into one long weekend. We planned to fly in to one city and out of the other and, in my case, be back in time for the school run. I knew we’d chosen the right place when Nashville airport staff member Mary sang us off the jet bridge with Goodnight Sweetheart, discreetly offering her CD to enamoured passengers. Our Uber driver to the hotel had once played drums on the same line-up as the White Stripes; even the hotel clerk tapped our names into the computer with a flourish that suggested she played a Steinway after her shift was up. Here was a city that sweated music from every pore – the songwriting centre of the world, which Queen Victoria called ‘Music City’ when she heard touring performers from Nashville more than two centuries ago. Despite it being late, we made straight for the Bluebird Cafe, the legendary listening room, whose in-the-round songwriters’ shows see country greats such as Garth Brooks and Taylor Swift play alongside the even more brilliant talents of their writers, in a room as cramped as your morning elevator ride to the office. We just made the 9.30pm and sat centimetres from Kevin Kadish (he co-wrote All About That Bass, one of the best-selling singles of all time), as he and friends strummed their favourite tunes. The Bluebird’s atmosphere was thick with good feeling, every one of us in the audience just so dang happy to be there. Yet tonight was just like any other ordinary night in Nashville. We could be watching the next Faith Hill – or Faith herself

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NASHVILLE & NEW ORLEANS

“At least one of the 150 tango clubs across Buenos Aires is open all night on any night of the year”

‘The Bluebird’s atmosphere was thick with good feeling, every one of us in the audience just so dang happy to be there’

might walk in the door for a quick jam. A ‘Miss Caroline’ breakfast called us next morning at the Row pub: two fluffy buttermilk pancakes, creamy eggs and snap-in-half bacon (corn ‘grits’ porridge and gravy on the side for me, a strong coffee for Paula). The Row and its cosy red-leather booths have been an affordable musicians’ favourite for decades and seemed the best place to start our weekend of wall-to-wall music. Its name refers to Music Row, an area of Nashville centred around 16th and 17th Streets; here, record labels, publishing houses, recording studios and radio networks all have their digs. Dolly Parton’s track Down on Music Row? Yep, she means

this place. We’d signed up for a little-known tour of it, called Songbird, to fill our time between breakfast and the first drink of the day. (If you’re not careful, in Nashville, where honky-tonks open at 10am, that could be before you’ve digested your toast.) From a tiny custom-made stage in a small American bus, its seats facing backwards towards the performers, Trey and Paul led the tour, guitars in hand. Both songwriters, they riffed off each other, musically and verbally, as we cruised 16th Street hearing the good, the bad, and the ugly (‘Elvis wrote 62 tracks in that house’; ‘There used to be more than 4,000 songwriters in Nashville, now there

Opening pages, left to right: live music venues and neon street signs line the sidewalks of Nashville; New Orleans' Bourbon Street at night These pages, clockwise from left: jazz musicians playing on a balcony in New Orleans' French Quarter; street sign signalling the way to the French Quarter; breakfast at a Nashville café

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are only about 400’; ‘Why am I here if I wrote a hit song? Divorce ain’t cheap!’). What was so unexpected, almost mythical, about Music Row was its modesty. The spot where Patsy Cline recorded Crazy, and Bobby Vinton Blue Velvet, was a corrugated steel hut that the then-producer tacked on to his house, while next door were simple, wooden houses – rickety swing on the veranda – as if a family dog was more likely to emerge than a Grammy winner. The sky was beginning to brown at the edges as Trey dropped us off on Broadway, and we took the lowered light as permission to visit our first honky-tonk. Originally poor piano bars in the south (some say the cattle-driver clientele was so rowdy they made a hell 50 World Traveller

of a ‘honk-a-tonk’), honky-tonks line the avenue, showcasing live music from dusk ’til dawn. Tootsies is the most notorious, where two boys in Stetsons were playing ‘three chords and the truth’ (my favourite nickname for country music) to a boisterous beer-spilling throng. Next door was Layla’s, over the road Brewhouse, and up and down Broadway there were countless more honky-tonks where Nashvilles’ storytellers played tear-jerking tracks. The only thing more heartbreaking than the music was the fact they didn’t all have record deals. Our last night in Nashville had to mean a prayer of worship in the temple to country music: the Grand Ole Opry at Ryman Auditorium, originally a church

‘African drums thumped out from one pitch, a lone gospel baritone sang from another, a jazz quartet and hip-hop dance crew pulled listeners to the others’

NASHVILLE & NEW ORLEANS

A man in a cowboy hat smiles for the camera in Nashville

built in 1892. And good Lord, did it deliver. Pews still provide audience seating. The wood and ceiling height make for outrageous acoustics. A mandolin player from Missouri stole our breath as she introduced further fiddles and banjos ’til they reached a crescendo; a husband and wife played violin to each other, the crowd strangled silent by their performance; then four old men in rhinestones sang lines that made us laugh ’til we cried. You could drive between Nashville and New Orleans, making a musical road trip with a Memphis pit stop (just under 1,000km all told), but we flew – an easy 50-minute, low-cost hop. Yet as we stepped out into the French Quarter, it felt as if we’d crossed continents, not

state lines: the tropical humidity made our hair frizz and the warm air had us unpeeling layers instantly. Wonderful. Sunny Jackson Square was a musical extravaganza: African drums thumped out from one pitch, a lone gospel baritone sang from another, a jazz quartet and hip-hop dance crew pulled listeners to the others. As two musos low on time, but high on musical tastes, Paula and I agreed this patch of grass was heaven. But it turned out to be nothing compared with Frenchmen Street that night, a beautifully breezy drag on the extreme reaches of the French Quarter, far from boisterous Bourbon Street and its drink deals. Arm in arm, like two sixth-formers leaving a nightclub in the ’90s (ahem), we

tottered between music venues. At DBA we discovered Roamin’ Jasmine, a troupe of shaggy-haired young guys in black tie and braces, whose horn section had couples dancing by the second number. Then at Three Muses our evening peaked – we’d found that rare thing: a venue where the food is as good as the music. We ate and drank and cheered too loudly at Shotgun Jazz Band, and ordered Miss D’s sweet-potato pie. At some point I seem to remember a man came in off the street and played a washboard strapped to his chest... And then we woke up. Luckily, New Orleans knows carbs like President Trump knows staff dismissal, so it was only a matter of bleary minutes before we were ensconced in a stall at Ruby World Traveller 51

This page: a New Orleans' street car on Canal Sreet Right: Maison Bourbon, a live jazz joint in the French Quarter, New Orleans

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NASHVILLE & NEW ORLEANS

Credit: Katie Bowman / The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing International

‘The only thing more heartbreaking than the music was the fact they didn’t all have record deals’ Slipper Café, Paula hiding beneath her big shades like a perp trying to evade the prison searchlight. Our waitress – in a T-shirt emblazoned ‘The mimosa made me do it’ – read out the specials, and the ‘St Charles’ caught my attention: crispy fried chicken pieces served on buttermilk biscuits (like savoury scones), topped with two poached eggs and a creamy sauce. After two of those, we didn’t just feel human again, we felt invincible. We jumped on a vintage tram and rumbled into the leafy Garden District. This grid of 12 by 5 blocks packs in perhaps the best-preserved ensemble of historic mansions in the South. By sheer fluke, it turned out to be Open House Day for a half-dozen privately owned homes, so Paula and I were able to see inside one 1891 beauty, chewing the fat with New Orleans’s well-heeled beside a grand mantelpiece. For music tourists, the Garden District offers the perfect dose of sightseeing, requiring no forward planning, no early start nor timed tickets. The neighbourhood simply existed for us, as we admired neo-

Grecian columns, Spanish moss-shaded squares, and sun-dappled porches. After Café du Monde, where we inhaled teatime ‘beignet’ doughnuts and a shot of bracing chicory coffee, it was time for more music. This evening, we had tickets to legendary trad-New Orleans jazz venue Preservation Hall. The seven-piece band didn’t disappoint as their raw, unamplified sound soaked the tiny, shabby room; unpredictable piano-noodling provoked gasps and one double-bass solo made my fingertips ache. I’d never heard of Preservation Hall Band until the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, when they marched musically down Royal Street to mark their first concert after the disaster. It made world news – and a dent on my memory. Up late again, but with no intention of turning in (tomorrow we’d fly home, so every after-dark moment mattered), Paula and I taxi’d to the Warehouse District. In this ex-wasteland between the French Quarter and Garden District, a pioneering selection of boutique hotels has arrived, along with some avant-garde venues –

tonight, ours would be the Howlin’ Wolf. The Hot 8 Brass Band were playing, and even now I’ve heard the act I couldn’t pinpoint the genre. It was hip-hop, it was jazz, it was funk, it was R&B, yet somehow there was a tuba involved. They even played an instrumental all-brass version of ’90s jam I Got 5 On It. Brilliance. Twenty-four hours later, I was there by the school gates, as promised. I felt like I’d been away for weeks – when it came to live music, I’d heard more in the past four days than I had in the preceding decade. And if you’re talking about rejuvenation, well, my Nashville-New Orleans pilgrimage had taken 20 years off me – not something many big birthday weekends can claim (usually the opposite). Were my new cowboy boots on the school run a step too far? Probably. Was the hip-hop blasting from my car stereo over the top? Absolutely. Did I give a damn? As my old friend Talor Swift would say: just shake it off. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 53

BOGOTÁ IRELAND

Emerald miles Nervous driver Alicia Burrell isn’t about to let the jitters stall her roadtrip dreams. She sets off solo along west Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way – the perfect taste of tarmac for fly and drive first-timers

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IRELAND

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IRELAND

ight on cue, the rain clouds rumbling over the mountains release their load. Fat droplets pelt the windscreen as I pass the eerie skeleton of an abandoned church in Donegal’s Glenveagh National Park, then skirt around pewtergrey loughs whipped into a frenzy by the ruthless wind. At home, I’d call this weather miserable. In Donegal, it’s magnificent. This is a place that shines when it pours. I’m only an hour into my six-day road trip along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way and already I’m smitten. Each roller-coaster twist and turn draws a sharper intake of breath. The landscape is so green no verdant adjective could do it justice (the perennial favourite ‘emerald’ doesn’t come close). Sunshine darts across the dewy hills making them sparkle like diamonds. But here’s the thing: I don’t love driving. While the views are beautiful, my heart is aflutter for another reason – nerves. In London, where I live, I always choose public transport over the stress of a car. My reluctance behind the wheel is so bad that it’s stopped me ticking off travel’s ultimate bucket-list item: the road trip. Until now, that is. I considered other firsttime drives: Route 66? Too far. Italy’s Stelvio Pass? Too scary. I needed a starter-friendly route with knockout scenery, plus a sense of familiarity in case anything backfires. Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way? Green light. The route curves along Eire’s western edge for 2,500km and packs in the holy trinity of scenes: soul-stirring countryside, wild coastlines and charming villages. As a bonus, the Irish speak English (helpful should I break down), drive on the same side of the road (no panicky approaches to roundabouts) and the distances are manageable (no atthe-wheel fatigue). Most coach tours head straight for the famous southern counties of Clare, Kerry and Cork. But I want a gentle introduction so decide to start in emptier Donegal, Sligo and Mayo, to be sure of open roads before finishing in Galway and Kerry. The following day, the sun is finally shining on Sliabh Liag, Donegal’s craggy 600m-high cliffs. For the first time I catch sight of the inky blue Atlantic swirling across the horizon. I’m on my way to Sligo Town, where I’ve signed up for a WB Yeats-themed walking tour with guide David Lawless. Yeats romped around County Sligo as a boy, and its moody mountains, prehistoric

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burial grounds and lush patchwork of fields provided the backdrop for his writing. David reels off Yeats’s poetry as melodiously as the gently flowing Garavogue river whose banks we amble along, while he points out Sligo’s quirky attractions, such as the 5,000-year-old megalithic tomb that’s now a roundabout. Back in the car, it’s on to Strandhill, one of Ireland’s top surf spots. I’ve yet to dip a toe into the Atlantic, but the breakers slamming the shore here convince me I’m best off leaving it to the wet-suited pros. Thankfully, there’s a way I can get a feel for the ocean without being tossed around like socks in a washing machine: seaweed. Locals have known about its detoxifying properties for aeons and have harnessed its powers for the modern spa-goer (and softies like me). At Voya Baths I slip into a bathtub filled with seawater and a thick tangle of seaweed. Any health benefits gained, though, are

duly undone in the beachfront Strand Bar. Back home, I’d be scared to go for a drink on my own. But as soon I order, I’m enveloped in conversations with punters propping up the bar, who lecture me on the correct way to pour-then-rest a Guinness. Next thing, I’m being led into the packed-to-the-rafters back room to hear rip-roaring live music. Groggy-headed the next morning, I head south into County Mayo. The scenery is a tapestry of golden grassland and heathercoated moors bordered by tumbling stone walls. Every village is proudly festooned in flags bearing the county’s colours of green and red, primed for a hurling grudge match. I’m here to start a battle of my own: me versus mountain. All 764m of it. Croagh Patrick is Ireland’s holiest peak: the eponymous saint was said to have spent 40 days fasting on the hillside. Those brave or devout enough to make the trek are

‘I realise I’m smiling than grimacing as the rental car ‘Butterflies andrather dragonflies dance as Ida explains handles hairpin bends through wind-flattened bogs, about different types of rice’ then scales the dizzy heights of sea-bashed cliffs’

Opening pages: A farm in the Dingle Peninsula These pages, clockwise from top: a mare and her colt in a field along the Renvyle Peninsula; the Garavogue river in County Sligo; barrels of Guinness stacked outside a pub

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Dunquin on the Dingle Peninsula

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I can see coral reefs rise on a shallow tide, like something beautiful caught beneath glassâ&#x20AC;?

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IRELAND

A jellyfish on the sand, with Clare Island in Clew Bay, County Mayo in the distance

rewarded with divine views of the sapphire Clew Bay bejewelled with hundreds of mini emerald islands – 365, according to tradition. The dark outline of a giant appears behind a curtain of clouds: a dense halo of grey fog is crowning the summit. On a good day, the climb should take a thighburning two-to-three hours. Today does not class as a good day. The previous night, my new drinking buddies warned me that Croagh Patrick was ‘one hell o’a tough hike’. Now, in the car park, thoughts of doing a U-turn creep into my mind. A chorus of raindrops starts up as I crunch over shards of quartz and rocks the size of kettlebells. Through the drizzle I catch glimpses of the panorama of Clew Bay. But by three quarters of the way up, I feel as if I’m navigating through cotton wool. With God as my only witness, I turn back and pray my weakness will be forgiven. Across the bay is the next and most exhilarating section of the Wild Atlantic Way: Achill Island. Achill was ravaged by the devastating famine of the 19th century

‘Sunshine darts across the dewy hills making them sparkle like diamonds’ – deserted villages and overgrown furrows still scar the land — and has seen waves of rebels come and go, from pirates to the IRA. But the island’s dramatic history is matched by its scene-stealing beauty. The road – which is linked to the mainland by a short causeway and loops around boomerangshaped Achill – is a driver’s dream. I realise I’m smiling rather than grimacing as the rental car handles hairpin bends through wind-flattened bogs, then scales the dizzy heights of sea-bashed cliffs. Every 200m I stop to take pictures, because each inch I travel is more beautiful than the one before. Achill is also home to Ireland’s most secluded beaches, many with names befitting the Shipping Forecast: Dooega,

Dugort, Golden Strand and Keem. I settle on Trawmore Strand and lounge on sugary heaps of golden sand and splash in Hockneyblue shallows. This is Mayo’s take on the Maldives and, though the temperature is far from tropical, I don’t care one jot. On day four I’m travelling to the edge of the world. Or as close as I can get. Clare Island is a tiny offshore outcrop guarding the mouth of Clew Bay. It has no police, no doctor, no secondary school, only two pubs and one shop. But what Clare Island does have is plenty of walks and undisturbed peace. It’s exactly the ‘wild’ I’m after. Clearly Clare has no proper roads, so I leave the car at Roonagh Pier and head straight to the top deck of the ferry for the crossing, despite the ferryman’s attempts to beckon me inside under cover. I should have listened. The boat crashes through monstrous waves, drenching me at once. The sight of dolphins gracefully darting through the water happily takes my mind off the compelling urge to throw up. Safely on dry land and in dry clothes I set World Traveller 59

Torc Waterfall in Killarney, County Kerry

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IRELAND

‘The scenery is a tapestry of golden grassland and heather-coated moors bordered by tumbling stone walls’

Credit: Alicia Burrell / The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

Driving past Coumeenoole Bay in the south west of the Dingle Peninsula

about exploring. I start in the Cistercian abbey (picking up the keys at the shop next door), covered in a menagerie of ceiling frescoes (spot wolves, stags, hares and a dragon) and the rumoured final resting place of Clare Island’s fearsome pirate queen and folklore hero, Grace O’Malley. Clare Island’s modern population (nudging 160) are a more welcoming bunch than their marauding ancestors. I learn about looms from Beth, the island’s resident weaver; and Cora, who runs the film festival, points me in the direction of the best walking trails, past a Napoleonic signal tower and megalithic sites. That night I watch a show no modern distraction could compete with. I’m staying in the island’s former lighthouse, now converted into boutique digs. While other guests enjoy the comfort of the lounge (and the honesty bar), I climb the spiral staircase up to a glass lantern tower to watch a storm sweep in. The unchecked force of the Atlantic batters incisor-sharp cliffs, sending

up a tornado of mist. The wind roars like a squadron of Spitfires flying just above my head. I think of the words on O’Malley’s gravestone: ‘Invincible on land and sea’. You’d have to be, to survive here. After a drier return to the mainland (I stayed below-deck this time), I wind down to County Galway, where being on the road becomes meditative. I roll through majestic Connemara, a jigsaw of glassy lakes, russet hills covered in a spider’s web of waterfalls, and forests blanketed with pine trees. If only driving back home in London was this calming. Dipping south into County Kerry, I make a detour purely so I can drive along the Dingle Peninsula – Ireland’s westernmost point and a less chocka, but just as pretty, version of the Ring of Kerry. I coast along serene, shoreline-hugging roads, stretch my legs on pristine Inch Strand beach, creep up narrow mountain passes and nosey around the colourful harbour of Dingle Town. As with the

rest of the Wild Atlantic Way, a car is the only way to experience these thrills. My final stop is Killarney National Park, where I finally witness the busloads of tourists for which this road is infamous. Killarney is a theme park of natural wonders: tumbling cascades of water set in oak forests filled with red deer and whitetailed eagles. Its attractions truly merit themepark crowds. Put in the work, though, and it’s possible to have a slice to yourself. As the selfie-stick hordes swarm the viewing platform at Torc Waterfall, I take the path up the hill and come to a clearing peeping out across lakes and mountains. A few steps more earn me an even better view of the waterfall plunging into pools below. No-one else makes it up here and I relish one last bit of time alone before I return to the city chaos of home. While I may have reached my final destination, I’m already revving up for my next road trip. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 61

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WISH UPON AN ISLE Located in the middle of Lake Bled, this tiny Slovenian island has a magical quality. According to local legend, the temple of the ancient Slavic goddess Ĺ˝iva once stood in the place of the present Baroque church. Today, it lures visitors to ring its 'wishing bell' in the hope of turning their dreams into reality. For more dreamy discoveries in the captivating country, turn the page to read our mini guide... World Traveller 63

MINI BREAK Ljubljana Castle

YOUR GUIDE TO: SLOVENIA

Small, unspoilt, and staggeringly beautiful, Slovenia is Europe’s best-kept secret. Go there now – before the crowds catch on

64 World Traveller

Ljubljanica River Canal

Words by Hazel Plush

t’s easy to overlook Slovenia – until you actually clap eyes on it, that is. Sandwiched between Italy, Austria and Croatia, and nuzzled briefly by Hungary to the east, it’s a tiny slip of a country – so surely you’re not missing much? But what it lacks in size, it makes up for with bombastic, mind-boggling scenery: vast inky-blue lakes betwixt snow-dusted mountains; thundering rivers in lush rambling valleys; and forest – so much forest! – as far as the eye can see. Not so unremarkable now, huh? The one thing that Slovenia lacks, but which its neighbours have in abundance? Crowds. No queues, no selfie-sticks, and nobody blocking those incredible views.

SLOVENIA

CAPITAL GAINS

Peričnik Falls in Triglav National Park

King of the castle Ljubljana Castle looms over the city from its hilltop spot, unmissable in every sense of the word. Architecturally speaking, this 900-year-old stronghold is a bit of a hot mess, with parts dating from every century since it was built – but its eclecticism is fascinating. For a fun history lesson try the Time Machine Tour, led by costumed guides who bring the castle’s most momentous periods to life. Amazing artefacts Central Europe’s history, culture and politics can be baffling at the best of times – but a trip to the City Museum of Ljubljana will see you right. With its mix of historical artefacts and interactive displays, this is an engaging way to get to know your host country’s past. Don’t miss Faces of Ljubljana, a permanent exhibit celebrating some of the city’s most notable and charismatic locals. mgml.si Cobbled together Ljubljana’s Old Town is no tourist trap – the city is far too under-the-radar for that. This picturesque quarter is where Ljubljančani (city locals) come to shop, eat, and catch up with friends over a cup of čaj – tea. The cobbled streets are packed with arty shops and quirky Slovenian crafts: look out for intricate Idrija lace and Rogaška glassware in particular.

travelgoals Slovenia is a nation of beekeepers, a passion which reaches fever pitch in Beeland, near Mozirje, where you can stay in honeycombshaped chalets and relax with honey-infused massages

WET & WILD Bled (not so) dry Surrounded by the snow-capped Julian Alps and a tangle of forests, the cobalt blue waters of Lake Bled are almost too beautiful to be believed. Get the best views from Bled’s hiking trails, before heading to the shore for a restorative dip: the lake is heated by thermal springs. This is Slovenia’s most famous lake; for quieter (but no less picturesque) waters, check out Triglav Lakes and Lake Bohinj. Chasing waterfalls The mighty Peričnik waterfall is one of Slovenia’s highest: a 52m-high cascade on the edge of one of the most wild and wonderful valleys you’ll ever set eyes on. Reach Peričnik on an easy walking trail from Mojstrana: the path even goes behind the falls, so you can experience its power up-close – a soggy but utterly exhilarating experience.

A colourful, ornate townhouse in Ljubljana

Going underground Deep beneath the surface of south-west Slovenia, the subterranean Pivka River has spent millenia quietly carving one of Europe’s most incredible cave systems. Postojna Cave has the scale and splendour of an underground castle: all towering stalagmites and huge echoing chambers. The river still runs at your feet, while thousands of pearly-white stalactites dangle above. It’s awe-inspiring stuff. postojnska-jama.eu World Traveller 65

MINI BREAK #

Potica: a traditional sweet roll with wallnuts

travelgoals For fresh air in Ljubljana, head to Park Tivoli – a huge recreation area criss-crossed with cycle paths and walking trails. It’s also home to the National Museum of Contemporary History

EAT THIS

Zip it up The hills are alive with the sounds of squealing thrillseekers – for what better way to explore Slovenia’s mighty peaks than by zip line? At the zip parks of Bovec and Planica, your bravery will be rewarded with breath-taking views of lushly-forested valleys and sheer-sided canyons – and (in the latter) a bird’s-eye glimpse of the largest ski jump in the world. zipline.si, planica-zipline.si Thrills and spills With its roaring rapids and picturesque eddies, the River Soča couldn’t be more perfect for white water rafting if it tried. Long, smooth stretches give you plenty of time to admire the scenery, before – bam! – those rollercoaster rapids arrive. Not that you’ll mind getting wet: the pure, emerald-coloured water makes for a refreshing dunk on hot days. socarafting.si

Slovenians aren't snobbish about food: they Eye in the sky love a good square dinner. If you thought Slovenia’s mountains and Slow-cooked ričet (bean soup), thick beef goulash lakes looked great on the ground, wait ’til and pillowy štruklji (sweet you see them from the sky. Up here, the or savoury stuffed dough) sheer scale of the peaks becomes clear are the meals of the – and those indigo lakes look like mere mountains, often topped off puddles. If your knuckles go white at the with a slice of kremšnita – mere thought of paragliding, worry not: a custard cake, typical of Bled those views will whisk your worries (and your

Home grown Slovenian chef Andrej Kuhar has travelled far and wide throughout his culinary career, scooping up Michelin stars aplenty. Now back on home turf, he gives hearty local ingredients a haute cuisine twist at Vila Herberstein, in the pretty city of Velenje: think freshly-caught bass with eggplant compote, roast lamb with black garlic, and silky-smooth hazelnut panna cotta. vilaherberstein.si Wild life Ana Roš is one of Slovenia’s most exciting chefs: she has led the country’s petition to be included in the Michelin Guide (it has been woefully overlooked), and her menu at Hiša Franko is utterly delightful. Wild herbs, truffles and meats are her forte – served in a rambling manor house deep in the countryside. Legend has it that Ernest Hemingway wrote A Call To Arms in this very spot. hisafranko.com

Medieval mouthful Set within Ljubljana Castle, Restavracija Strelec is top of the capital’s culinary must-dos. Its city views are always splendid – especially at sunset, while sipping apéritifs on the terrace. Inside, the dramatic Medieval décor (all original) is only out-shone by chef Igor Jagodic’s contemporary take on Slovenian staples. Arrive hungry: the nine-course tasting menu is the star of the show. +386 31 687 648 66 World Traveller

ADRENALINE RUSH

breath) right away. adventures-nature.com Hang gliding in the mountains

SLOVENIA

THIS OLD TOWN

Grand Hotel Union

Spring sensation The little town of Ptuj (pronounced p’toy) is a charming mish-mash of Gothic turrets and Renaissance domes, augmented over the centuries like a scrapbook of European architecture. In spring, things get even stranger with the Kurent procession – an ancient ritual which sees residents dancing through the streets in masks and sheepskins, chasing away winter with ježevka – thick sticks made from hedgehog spines. Bonkers, yes, but also quite brilliant. Spa heaven Thanks to its natural thermal springs, Slovenia has scores of pretty spa towns – but Dolenjske Toplice is the oldest of the lot, dating back to the mid-17th century. Conversely, its Balnea Wellness Centre is slick and modern – with four thermal pools, saunas and steam baths aplenty, and a huge array of spa treatments. It’s just the tonic after tackling the area’s excellent hiking and biking trails. Piran On Slovenia’s miniscule 48km coastline, the tiny town of Piran is home to everyone’s favourite seafront. This pretty peninsula was ruled by the Venetians for 500 years, and Piran still feels like a little Italian enclave – all sun-drenched plazas and ice cream stalls sandwiched between ornate Gothic architecture. From the top of its town wall you can see all along the coast, and over the Gulf of Trieste towards Italy.

WHERE TO STAY Grand Hotel Union Set in an historic Art Nouveau building, constructed in 1905, the hotel blends seamlessly into Ljubljana Old Town. Behind its classic exterior, however, lies a stylish hotel with spacious and comfortable rooms, making it a great central base for explorers.

The traditional Kurentovanje Carnival in Ptuj

travelgoals Slovenians consider it a rite of passage to climb Mount Triglav – the country’s highest mountain (2,864m). Over half of Slovenia is forested, making it one of the world’s greenest countries

Habakuk Hotel Set beneath the wooded Pohorje plateau, Habakuk Hotel is surrounded by nature. Cycling, horse riding, hiking and golf are just some of the activities on offer – brilliant if you're craving some quality time in the great outdoors. The swimming pools contain thermal water, and you can make the most of the terrace pools that are open until 30 September. Hotel Piran The rooftop bar of Hotel Piran is the place to be when summer hits in Slovenia. Overlooking the Gulf of Trieste, with Piran’s fantastic fish restaurants on its doorstep, this small family-run hotel is a real charmer. World Traveller 67

WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

It’s a masterpiece

Combine a love for travel and art with a stay in the UAE capital for Abu Dhabi Art

or art enthusiasts in the region, a trip to Abu Dhabi may well be on the horizon, as the emirate’s annual art fair gears up for its biggest and best instalment yet. The 10th edition of Abu Dhabi Art is taking place from 1417 November at Manarat Al Saadiyat, and is set to showcase a coveted collection of modern and contemporary art from leading international galleries. There’s an impressive line-up of globally-respected figures such as Dr. Omar Kholeif, Hammad Nasar, and Tarek Abou El Fetouh curating stimulating sections. As such, you can expect to brush shoulders with pioneering local and international creatives, including Emirati artist Mohammed Ahmed Ibrahim, who will be in town to present the Beyond: Emerging Artists section, for which three rising UAE-based artists will be commissioned to produce works as part of a tailor-made programme. “Each edition brings a different constellation of cultural leaders together and this year promises to be an engaging edition thanks to their depth of knowledge, expertise and generous contributions to the programme,” says fair director Dyala Nusseibeh. Having set the bar high, with its most extensive programme to date, we recommend you make a long weekend out of it in order to view it all. Among the attractions on our radar is Gateway, a visual art exhibition curated by Hammad Nasar, which considers artworks that explore the built environment and language as structures. There will also be an opportunity to engage with contemporary performance art through the sixth edition of Durub Al Tawaya, Abu Dhabi Art’s performing arts programme developed by Tarek Abou El Fetouh. The programme will give rise to site-specific performances

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throughout the fair, and in different locations across the city until January 2019. Indeed, don’t fret if you can’t make the opening, as many of the exhibitions will remain active beyond November thanks to an extended off-site programme, giving you plenty of reasons to return time and time again. If you can’t wait quite that long for your art fix, you can pay a trip to Cuadro Fine Art Gallery, which will be exhibiting Camille Zakharia’s works at Warehouse421 in Abu Dhabi in September, as part of Abu Dhabi Art’s ongoing programme of gallery exhibitions presenting contemporary artworks for sale. To find out more, visit abudhabiart.ae

TRAVEL NOTES

My Great Escapes David and Nadia Aslam spent five years jetting around the world in search of adventure and are now touring Europe and beyond in their 1969 VW Adventurewagen, sayingyes.is

1. Living like Vikings in Gjøvik, Norway. Between hanging out in our traditional Norwegian Hytte (cabin), we rowed a

Viking ship, learnt how to throw axes, and ate homemade apple pie while playing Kubb (a traditional Norwegian game) with the local mayors. 2. Going green in Tulum, Mexico. Driving there from Playa del Carmen took us from built-up metropolis to the most relaxed tropical wonderland. We stayed in a treehouse hotel, went kayaking in the ocean, and ate vegan food galore. It was hard to leave. 3. Exploring Zion National Park, Utah. While staying with family in San Diego we all decided, at the last minute, to pack up the car and head to Zion for a few days. Besides hiking through the incredible scenery, including Angels Landing, we drove to pink sand dunes and were hit by a sudden snow storm. It didn’t put a damper on things though, as we went sand dune sledding with the help of our trusty bodyboard.

4. Driving through the French Alps. Towards the end of 2017, we bought a VW bus and decided to hit the road. Driving through the Alps pretty early into our journey, there were so many hidden gems to park up and picnic at, and it made us realise that being on a never-ending road trip is the lifestyle

we’ve been looking for all along. 5. Family ties in Glencoe,

Scotland. Trips with family are always the best and spending last summer driving around Scotland with both of our families, exploring the area where David’s family is originally from, was such a treat. 6. Kiteboarding in El Gouna. This is a beautiful Red Sea resort town 17 miles south of Hurghada in Egypt. It’s also a kiteboarding hub, with incredible beaches and food. When not on the water, we all hung out at the kite schools and soaked up the great community spirit.

World Traveller 69

WORLD TRAVELLER X INTERCONTINENTAL FUJAIRAH RESORT

STAYCATION

InterContinental Fujairah Resort Escape to this beachfront retreat, where the Indian Ocean meets the Hajar Mountains THE ROOMS Get away from it all without getting on a long-haul flight at this serene resort nestled on the shoreline of Al Aqah Beach. Rooms and suites have large balconies offering uninterrupted ocean views, so youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be perfectly placed to soak up the soothing coastal scenery. The Presidential Suite is the most coveted hideaway, with its Arabesque dĂŠcor, king-sized bed and plush seating area on the private terrace.

THE FOOD To dine with your feet in the sand, head to the beach where three fire pits await to deliver a memorable meal under the stars. Palate-pleasing restaurants, which make the most of the stunning location, include all-day-dining venue Nama and Drift beach bar and grill, which is the place to go for prime cuts of meat and fine seafood. For pre-dinner drinks, Horizon lobby lounge and bar is a popular gathering spot.

THE ACTIVITIES Rest and recuperation is easy to come by, with a private beach and four temperaturecontrolled swimming pools inviting you to slow down the pace. For pampering, O Spa by L'Occitane offers treatments that utilise local ingredients and rituals to soothe away stress. Once your energy levels are restored, watersports such as stand-up paddle boarding, scuba diving and wakeboarding offer a revitalising burst of activity.

To find out more, call +971 9 209 9999 or visit fujairah.intercontinental.com 70 World Traveller

WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA

STAYCATION

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa Journey deep into the desert for an Arabian adventure like no other THE ROOMS Stunning views is something this luxurious desert resort excels at, with each and every room offering picture-perfect vistas. Superior Rooms, situated on the upper floor of the resort, have desert or courtyard scenes while Suites boast their very own sun terrace ideal for admiring the sweeping, silent sands. When the sun is overhead, you can retire to the majlis-style seating area for a cup of Arabic coffee.

THE FOOD Authentic foodie experiences set the tone for mealtimes at Bab Al Shams, so slow down the pace and savour every bite thanks to its Ă la carte style dining options. For traditional Northern Indian tandoor and curries, Masala can be relied upon to bring some spice to the table. Le Dune specialises in fine Italian fare, while the Al Sarab Rooftop Lounge is the place to go for Arabic favourites such as mezze and grills.

THE ACTIVITIES Adventure seekers can re-discover the dramatic dunes in storybook style thanks to the new Bedouin Desert Experience, which offers all-day pool access (from 10am), a light lunch at the pool bar, camel riding and a thrilling four-wheel-drive desert safari at sunset. The journey ends on a high note with a Middle Eastern buffet served at Al Hadheerah desert restaurant, with dancing and singing under the stars.

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 72 World Traveller

DO NOT DISTURB. RELAXATION IN PROGRESS

Your memorable desert getaway now comes with superb deals as Bab Al Shams unveils its summer offers. We’re taking 50% off your food and drink bills so you can relax more – for far less. BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT Dubai,United Arab Emirates T:+971 4 809 6498, bas.reservations@meydanhotels.com babalshams.com /babalshamshotel

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WORLD TRAVELLER X THE MEYDAN HOTEL

STAYCATION

The Meydan Hotel With spacious rooms, fine food and a scenic golf course, this iconic hotel goes the distance THE ROOMS There's plenty of space to stretch out in here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Meydan's standard rooms are the largest in Dubai. For a further upgrade, choose a room with a balcony, or plump for a suite. The Panoramic Suite has stunning views of the famous racetrack while the Presidential Duplex Suite is a great choice for families, with space for two adults and two children, a large living room, private library and dining room that seats eight.

THE FOOD Torn between cuisines? It's no problem at Shiba, which is like two restaurants rolled into one. The lively venue serves fine fare prepared by Japanese and Chinese chefs, with sushi, sashimi and other dishes whipped up while you wait. For special occasions, the Tatami (Japanese) style private dining room fits up to 10 guests. All-day-dining restaurant Farriers is a firm favourite for its international buffet.

THE ACTIVITIES Keen golfers can hone their skills at The Track, Meydan Golf. Dubai's first pay-andplay golf course caters to all abilities, with a 9-hole course stretching over 7,416 yards from the back tees, working its way through a series of natural lakes. There's also a 400-yard floodlit driving range and PGA professionals on hand to help you improve your game. Afterwards, head to Qube sports bar for a game of pool, darts or table football.

To find out more, call +971 4 381 3333 or visit themeydanhotel.com 74 World Traveller

DO MORE SPEND LESS Make the experience and your cash last that bit longer as The Meydan Hotel launches its ice-cold summer offers to beat the heat. This summer, your stay at Meydan comes with 50% off each bar and restaurant bill so you can do more â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with less. Rates starting from AED 349 * THE MEYDAN HOTEL Dubai,United Arab Emirates T: +971 4 381 3231, meydanreservations@meydanhotels.com themeydanhotel.com /meydanHotel

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WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Stay in this landmark hotel and enjoy the luxury of choice THE ROOMS The world's tallest five-star hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an architectural gem with ample space to welcome guests from around the globe. Its 1,608 guestrooms and suites have luxurious finishings – think marble bathrooms with oversized tubs – with free Wi-Fi and views of the skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can book a suite and spread out in two separate living and sleeping areas.

THE FOOD Foodies will find plenty to satisfy the appetite at this property, which has 15 award-winning restaurants and bars. For perfectly prepared cuts of meat, Prime68 steakhouse is sure to impress while, for authentic Indian fare, Rang Mahal is the talk of the town – the street food style plates are a great sampler. If Japanese is more your flavour, Izakaya is a casual cool setting for sharing tasty bites.

THE ACTIVITIES The hotel is close to many of Dubai's top attractions, but there are lots of perks that'll tempt you to linger inside the property. Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering, head to the opulent Saray Spa, which features 17 treatment rooms and the UAE's only Dead Sea flotation pool. Try The Saray Golden Hammam, which includes a decadent skin massage using 24-karat gold.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 76 World Traveller

Surroundings to inspire, experiences to remember. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal. The 1,608-rooms hotel has a collection of over 15 award-winning restaurants and bars, a sublime Saray Spa and Club Marquis, and over 8,000 sq m of spectacular indoor and outdoor event space.

JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |

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WORLD TRAVELLER X SOFITEL DUBAI JUMEIRAH BEACH

STAYCATION

Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach If you do like to be beside the seaside, this chic hotel places you at the heart of the promenade THE ROOMS You can tick 'room with a view' off your wish list, as every guestroom and suite has a private balcony from which to gaze at the glistening sea towards iconic landmarks such as Ain Dubai Ferris wheel and Palm Jumeirah. Party of five? Book the Imperial Suite, which comes complete with a bubbling Jacuzzi in the king-size bedroom, a spacious living room and kitchen.

THE FOOD Two restaurants and two lounges offer the chance to dine around, but don't miss a legendary Dubai brunch. A.O.C. international buffet restaurant rolls out the red carpet every Friday for three hours of fine French food, including homemade foie gras and moules mariniĂŠre. Equally fun are the Theme Nights (daily from 7pm-11pm), which will take your taste buds on a journey through Morocco, Italy, Arabia and beyond.

THE ACTIVITIES Beach-goers can make the most of the hotel's coveted location beside the open beach and The Walk at JBR, which is bustling with shops and cool attractions. Plus, being near the tram station, and just a 10-minute walk from the metro station, means you'll find it easy to get out and explore the wider city. The best bit? You can receive up to 30% off room rates (breakfast included), all summer long.

To find out more, call +971 4 448 4848 or visit sofitel-dubai-jumeirahbeach.com 78 World Traveller

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SOUTH AFRICA

LIVE LIKE A LORD

GARDEN ROUTE & SAFARI

Includes: A 2-night stay at Clontarf Castle in Dublin, 2 nights at Abbeyglen Castle in Galway, 2 nights at Ballyseede Castle in Clare, and 1 night at Barberstown Castle in Kildare; daily breakfast included; and 8-day Hertz Car Hire is also provided. Valid from: Now until 31 December 2018

Includes: A 3-night stay in Cape Town, 2 nights in Hermanus, 2 nights in Oudtshoorn, 2 nights in Knysna, and 2 nights at Kariega Private Game Reserve on a fullboard basis; breakfast daily; 12-day Hertz Car Hire from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, and luxury accommodation throughout. Valid from: Now until 31 December 2018

7 nights starting from USD890 per person

11 nights starting from USD2,610 per person

SINGAPORE

TRISHAWS AND BUMBOATS

5 nights starting from USD550 per person

Includes: A 3-night stay at The Orchard Singapore Hotel, and 2 nights at Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa Resort; a tour of the night markets of Chinatown including a visit to Thye Shan Hall; a trishaw ride to Clarke Quay; bumboat cruise on Singapore River including stopping at the Merlion Statue and dinner at a local restaurant. Valid from: Now until 31 December 2018

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

SRI LANKA

UNITED KINGDOM

3 nights starting from USD299 per person

3 nights starting from USD999 per person

ANANTARA KALUTARA

Includes: Stay in a Premier Garden View Room with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: Stay for 2 nights and receive an additional night free Valid from: Now until 22 December 2018

ST JAMES'S HOTEL & CLUB

Includes: Stay three nights in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: 10% discount on Regent Street VIP card on selected stores, and a GBP75 Harrods gift voucher Valid from: Now until 31 December 2018

THAILAND

BANYAN TREE PHUKET

4 nights starting from USD680 per person

Includes: Stay in Banyan Pool Villa with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: 20% discount on room rate and a 50% discount on meals for children under 12 years old Valid from: Now until 27 October 2018

AROUND THE WORLD

TURKEY

THE MARMARA TAKSIM, ISTANBUL

3 nights starting from USD355 per person

Includes: Stay in a Corner Room City View with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: 10% discount on room rate and kids under 5 stay free Valid from: Now until 31 December 2018

MAURITIUS LUX* BELLE MARE

4 nights starting from USD1,080 per person

Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: 20% discount on room rate Valid from: Now until 31 October 2018 Anantara Kalutara Banyan Tree Phuket

LUX* Belle Mare The Marmara Taksim, Istanbul

CZECH REPUBLIC INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL PRAGUE

4 nights starting from USD430 per person

Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with daily breakfast, 2 shopping days at The Style Outlets and one of Prague's luxury shopping malls, including return transfers, and return airport transfers Offer: Exclusive package rate Valid from: Now until 29 November 2018

MALDIVES

LUX* SOUTH ARI ATOLL

3 nights starting from USD1,160 per person

Includes: Stay in a Beach Villa with breakfast and dinner daily, and return seaplane transfers Offer: 35% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade to half-board and a 25% discount on seaplane transfers Valid from: Now until 31 October 2018

ITALY

ARMANI HOTEL MILANO

3 nights starting from USD1,020 per person

LUX* South Ari Atoll

Includes: Stay in an Armani Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, and return airport transfers Offer: 15% discount on room rate Valid from: Now until 31 October 2018 World Traveller 83

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

WEEKEND ESCAPES

Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island Al Yamm Villa Resort The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai

Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates

UAE

THE RITZ-CARLTON, DUBAI 1 night starting from USD170 per person Special offer: Children under 16 stay for free of charge on the same meal plan as their parents Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 September 2018 ZAYA NURAI ISLAND RESORT 1 night starting from USD454 per person Special offer: Special rate Includes: Stay in a Beach Villa with breakfast, and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 Septemeber 2018 AL RAHA BEACH HOTEL 1 night starting from USD102 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to a Gulf View Room; one child under 12 stays and eats for free (a complimentary extra bed is available for the child), and a 25% discount on hotel spend Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and dinner and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 15 September 2018 ANANTARA SIR BANI YAS ISLAND AL YAMM VILLA RESORT 1 night starting from USD345 per person Special offer: Special rate Includes: Stay in a one-bedroom villa How to book

84 World Traveller

with breakfast, lunch, dinner included; and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 September 2018 KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES 1 night starting from USD155 per person Special offer: 40% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 September 2018 THE WESTIN DUBAI MINA SEYAHI BEACH RESORT & MARINA 1 night starting from USD129 per person Special offer: 2 children under 12 stay and eat for free when dining with their parents; 25% off food and drink within the resort; Westin Heavenly SPA and watersport activities included for stays between 9 August and 15 September, 2018 Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Sea View Room with breakfast and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 29 September 2018

Zaya Nurai Island Resort

Al Raha Beach Hotel

KUWAIT

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL KUWAIT AT BURJ ALSHAYA 2 nights starting from USD259 per person Special offer: Special rate Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 September 2018

By calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666

By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

ONLINE

Abby Patterson in Bolivia

#dnataworldtraveller

SUMMER HOLIDAY SNAPS

Over the past month, you've kindly been sharing your best summer holiday snaps as part of our #wtsummerholidays Instagram journal. We've really enjoyed seeing all your globetrotting adventures, with a wide variety of destinations in focus, from the largest salt flat in Bolivia to the hip, port city of Thessaloniki, and everywhere inbetween. Keep an eye on our Instagram account for our next photo sharing session.

Twiddling your thumbs between issues? Simply visit worldtravellermagazine.com for even more travel inspo, and carry on the conversation on our social channels

Photo credit (Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano): Paul Thuysbaert / Four Seasons

Follow us on Instagram @dnataworldtraveller to double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall.

Danae Mercer (@danaemercer) in Thessaloniki, Greece

Plan your perfect Indian Ocean island escape with our annual Maldives Insider guide, which is now available to read online. While you're there, you can also check out our Dubai Insider and Weddings & Honeymoons Insider guides.

Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa

MINI BREAK Our handy guides to trending destinations are perfect for a long weekend away

Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano

Happy GET CLICK

Tokyo

THE HOT LIST Our list of 100 must-have travel experiences is still going strong

Find us on Facebook @worldtravellermagazine and stay up to date with travel stories as we post them. Tweet with us @WT_Magazine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; make the most of your 280-character allowance by sharing your best travel moments with us.

TRAVEL INSPIRATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Available on your desktop, tablet and smartphone World Traveller 87

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Hamilton Penthouse Corinthia Hotel London

With its iconic view across the rooftops to Nelsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Column in Trafalgar Square, even the legendary Lady Hamilton would feel at home inside this stunning suite. Modern-day muses will find the space equally captivating, with its bespoke furniture, marble bathroom and large roof terrace complete with open fire and vitality bath. Like all the rooms at the Corinthia, its finery is matched by warm and welcoming staff and thoughtful personalised touches (in our case, tiny fluffy slippers and bathrobes for the kids and hushed room service once the little ones were tucked up) that make you feel a sense of belonging, if only for a night.

88 World Traveller

Enjoy extraordinary events #InAbuDhabi! Abu Dhabi is an eventful destination with an action-packed calendar featuring international music, heritage and cultural festivals, sports, gourmet, high profile business conferences and vibrant trade fairs

SEP 2018

OCT

Al Ain Book Fair Sept 23 - Oct 2

OCT

N OV

Dar Al Zain Festival

Games Con Oct 25 - 27

N OV

Taste of Abu Dhabi Nov 8 - 10

Abu Dhabi Art Nov 14 - 17

D EC

National Day Celebrations Dec 1 - 2

D EC

JA N 2 0 1 9

Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf Championship

MAR

Abu Dhabi Festival

Formula 2 Powerboat Championship Nov 22 - 23

Sheikh Zayed Heritage Festival

F1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix City-wide Activation Nov 22 - 26

Mubadala World Tennis Championship Dec 27 - 29

Sultan Bin Zayed Heritage Festival Jan - Feb

Festember

D EC

FEB

Mother of the Nation Festival

Traditional Handicrafts Festival

Liwa International Festival â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mureeb Dune

Al Dhafra Festival

MAR

N OV

D EC

JA N

Abu Dhabi Classics 2018-2019 Oct - May 2019

N OV

D EC

Abu Dhabi Food Festival Dec 6 - 22

ADIPEC 2018 Nov 12 - 15

N OV

D EC

Abu Dhabi International Boat Show Oct 17 - 20

ADIHEX 2018 Oct 2 - 6

N OV

OCT

NYE Celebration Dec 31

MAR

ITU World Triathlon Abu Dhabi Mar 8

Red Bull Air Race Championship

APR

Abu Dhabi International Book Fair Apr 24 - 30

Al Dhafra Water Festival

@abudhabievents Available on

abudhabievents.ae

Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular Meeting Spaces.

JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

World Traveller - September'18

Articles inside

Ben Fogle, A Life Well Travelled