RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT

Unforgettable flavour in fine dining at La Colombe Restaurant

Consider it lunch or dinner and a show. With a serene dining room, meticulously ironed linen, accomplished service and a 12-course tasting menu that brings plenty of surprises along the way, La Colombe Restaurant is one of the foundations of Cape Town’s dining scene. Take a seat in this light-filled, glass-fronted room and prepare to have your senses stimulated by executive chef James Gaag’s nuanced cooking and avant-garde plating. This is mould-breaking fine dining at its best.

How does a restaurant attain landmark status? Score a coveted table at La Colombe Restaurant and you’ll gain an insight. The very best spots are the window seats located on the restaurant’s periphery, offering enchanting vistas of the quaint vineyard and surrounding trees. On hot days, the windows are opened, letting the dining room embrace the elements. The setting has been created with comfort as well as aesthetics in mind. The interiors are pared back with oak flooring arranged in a herringbone design, travertine tiles and a fresh white palette. A jade green leafy wallpaper and plush velvet curtains soften the space, while contemporary lighting and brass accents add a touch of modernity. A design palate cleanser before the culinary theatre – and, trust us, it’s really quite a show. Executive chef James Gaag and his tight-knit kitchen team are surgically focused, sending out dishes in subtle but expressive ways. A suave, sharply dressed sommelier adds to the spectacle.

Whether you opt for the eight-course Reduced Menu (R1,395 per person) or the 12-course Chef’s Menu (R1,795 per person), expect a battalion of stellar snacks to start. Each one is an intricate display of prowess. Perhaps an exquisite dove’s nest cradling ceramic eggs filled with refreshing lemongrass palate cleanser. Ultra-thin slices of marbled biltong and a luscious pine nut spread. Herbcrusted smoked salmon accompanied by a green apple with a centre of smoked snoek. Artfully crafted acorns resting on autumn leaves, delicately enclosing duck liver. There’s more skill in La Colombe’s openers and closing petit fours than across entire menus at some other finedining restaurants. The freshly baked sweet potato bread, still warm, is perfect for breaking off and generously loading with the pâtés and assorted cut delicacies. Given the level of detail in play, a wine pairing proves a wise decision. The Iconic Wine Flight, while it may acome at a higher price, copes adroitly with the culinary fireworks and is a fitting choice for wine enthusiasts on special occasions. Surrender your credit card – this is A-list luxury.

For starters, expect the La Colombe signature that stokes its foodie empire –the tuna in a can. This season, the iconic Tuna ‘La Colombe’ has been refreshed and invigorated with an all-new flavour profile. It artfully merges that fresh-fromthe-net zing with the kitchen’s first-rate creativity, particularly where flavour and presentation are concerned. The standout, though, is most definitely the next course – a dazzlingly skillful, meticulously detailed snow crab and yellowtail ‘waffle’. It’s chockfull of powerful flavours and adorned with edible flowers, adding a touch of elegance to the presentation. What comes afterwards is consistently dexterous. A quail and langoustine roulade is deeply flavourful, alongside sweetcorn and bisque.

Caramelised scallops turn out to be served with pork jowl and bay leaves, tandoori reigning in its slightly smoky punch. For main, Karoo lamb complemented by celeriac and a refined rendition of James’ mom’s bolognaise showcases the beauty of skillfully executed simplicity in fine dining.

Like La Colombe itself, the cheese course is a delight. If first impressions truly count, ‘Cheese & Honey’ suggests this is no ordinary cheese experience. Honeycomb-shaped plates present a delectable ensemble of raclette cheese, smoked Stanford, pickled pear purée, pickled onion, quince butter and roasted walnuts. We won’t spoil the excitement. The Jerusalem artichoke mousse, sponge cake and ice cream end the dining experience on a seasonal sweet note. With a chocolate and hazelnut crumb and three different tuiles – cacao nib, caramel and chocolate, and carrot and orange – it’s one of the most balanced and innovative puddings we’ve had to date.

Silvermist Wine Estate, Main Road, Constantia Nek, Constantia

021 794 2390 www.lacolombe.restaurant