NUTRITION

The Fungus Among Us

Mushrooms are finally having their day in the sun

BY JENNIFER SAMS

NO, YOU’RE NOT SEEING THINGS. Mushrooms are everywhere. From granola and meat-free jerky to the vast array of “functional” beverages like coffee, tea, and sparkling water, the wellness world is in the midst of a fungi frenzy.

This undoubtedly comes as no surprise to traditional practitioners, who have been using mushrooms for their purported health and healing properties for centuries. As a 2011 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine report on the uses of cordyceps points out, “Mushrooms have been used as food, medicine, poison, and in spiritual mushroom practices in religious rituals across the world since at least 5000 B.C.”

Dr. Melissa Sundermann, who practices at IHA, in Hamburg, shared her insight on the benefits of a fungi-forward diet: “The fiber content is what we look at for nurturing our gut microbiome, which is probably the pulse of our entire existence; 70 percent of our immune system and 90 percent of our serotonins reside there. A healthier gut microbiome reduces inflammation everywhere, from diabetes, heart disease, dementia, weight, and stability.”

Those living in colder regions — like Michigan — may be especially intrigued by another health benefit. “I find that [in the winter] most of my patients are vitamin D deficient, and that’s because it’s really difficult to get it in our diet.” Sundermann explains that, just like humans, mushrooms produce vitamin D when they are exposed to ultraviolet light. “Maitakes are one of the most powerful producers of vitamin D,” Sundermann says.

She cautions that shoppers should check labels to ensure the mushrooms for sale have been exposed to UV light.

The resurgence of interest in — and in some places, the

“Mushrooms have been used as food, medicine, poison, and in spiritual mushroom practices in religious rituals across the world since at least 5000 B.C.”

decriminalization of — hallucinogenic mushrooms has played a role in calling this new level of attention to the health benefits of edible mushrooms. But this coincides with another lifestyle trend: People are moving away from meat. According to a 2020 survey from Gallup, nearly one in four (23 percent of) Americans reported eating less meat than they had previously. This is good news for mushrooms, whose hearty texture and umami-rich flavor make them a viable alternative.

Carly Feldmeier, a holistic nutritionist in St. Joseph, explains why she’s partial to the shiitake. “It is my favorite edible mushroom because it’s a potent antiviral medicine that we can do simple extractions with at home, like throwing them in a broth or chopping them up and sauteing them. I think they’re really underrated.”

While most of those surveyed in the Gallup poll attributed their diet change to health concerns, some said they did it for environmental reasons. Kelsey Taylor, owner of Magic Moon Mushrooms in Redford and self-described “mycophile,” has been producing mushroom supplements for about three years. She says she first started learning about mushrooms while studying regenerative farming techniques. “You can’t know anything about soil without learning about fungal networks and mycelial connections.”

The United States Department of Agriculture breaks down the science on just that: Fungi “convert hard-to-digest organic material into forms that other organisms can use. Fungal hyphae physically bind soil particles together, creating stable aggregates that help increase water infiltration and soil water holding capacity.”

Chris Swinson, CFO (as in chief fungal officer) of Mycophile’s Garden, in Grand Rapids, is one of an increasing number of people specializing in creating mushroombased products. Swinson spends a lot of time at farmers markets, where he is witnessing the sea change firsthand. “We’re seeing fewer people who leer at the mushrooms and just walk by.”

When it comes to fungi, Sundermann is excited about the possibilities. “Cordyceps are used for oxidative stress, recovery, and energy,” she says. “Shiitakes help with lowering blood pressure and cholesterol. Reishi can be used to help with sleep and anxiety. ... It’s fascinating the benefits that mushrooms provide and the vast array of species that are edible out there.”

CARAMELIZED

LEEK AND SEARED MUSHROOM TOAST

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

Mustard-pine nut spread 3/4 cup pine nuts 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 1/2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard 1 tsp. dark agave nectar Fine sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

Toast 1 lb. wild mushrooms, such as maitake, chestnut, or chanterelle 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus some to brush on the bread Kosher salt 1 cup finely chopped leek (about 1 medium) 1 Tbsp. minced fresh thyme 4 thick slices sourdough or other rustic bread 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon Flaky sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Make the spread In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over medium-high heat, shaking the pan for even cooking, until they start turning golden, about 3 minutes. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the nuts into a fine paste. Add the olive oil, mustard, agave, a pinch of salt, and a few turns of white pepper, and stir well to combine. Set aside.

Make the toast Clean the mushrooms. Remove any tough stems and, if you are using larger mushrooms, chop them to ensure all pieces are fairly uniform in size.

In a cast-iron skillet, warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt, being careful not to overcrowd the pan. Cook, stirring often and scraping the pan, until the liquid released by the mushrooms has fully evaporated and the mushrooms are starting to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, transfer the mushrooms to a medium bowl, and set aside.

In the same skillet, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add the leek and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme and a pinch of salt, and cook until the leek is browning and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

Position an oven rack about 6 inches from the broiler heat element, and preheat the broiler to high.

Arrange the bread on a baking sheet and broil until golden brown. Flip the bread and broil for about 30 seconds on the other side; take it out of the oven quickly, so it doesn’t burn.

To serve, arrange one slice of toast on each of four small plates and brush with olive oil. Generously slather on the mustard-pine nut spread, spoon on the leek mixture, then evenly distribute the mushrooms over the top. Garnish each with a tiny bit of tarragon (just enough for a few pops of flavor), then season with flake salt and a few turns of white pepper, and enjoy.

Recipe reprinted with permission from Vegetable Kingdom: The Abundant World of Vegan Recipes by Bryant Terry, copyright © 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.