The beauty of the Peloponnese

by Tony Argyle

Mention Greece to most travellers and it conjures up images of crystal-clear waters, stunning beaches and enjoying a drink at an affordable taverna while boats bobble at the jetty nearby. It's an image synonymous with this beautiful country. Contrary to belief, however, you don't need to head out to the Greek islands to make this your reality.

As much as we enjoy the islands of Greece the mainland, particularly the Peloponnese peninsula, holds a special place in our hearts. Not only does it offer all the above, but often at more affordable prices, and far less crowded than it's more famous offshore cousins... and it can be reached in less than an hour from Athens.

The Peloponnese is authentic Greece, warts and all, with cute villages, majestic mountains that are more impressive than you would expect from this country, and some of the most stunning coastal drives you'll find anywhere, with amazing views of the Aegean sea around every corner.

There are more places to mention than we can cover in this article but here are some of the favourites we've enjoyed seeing:

PYLOS

Situated on the west coast of the Peloponnese, this pretty fishing village is home to just a few thousandinhabitants, but its reputation is growing (the Beckhams were rumoured to holiday nearby recently). The drive into town from the north (for those who are coming from Ancient Olympia) is gorgeous as you round the bay and climb a hill before coming down into town (there's a lookout with views to Sphacteria island just offshore).

The centre of town is a communal square with an abundance of cafes to enjoy a drink and take in the harbour view. Just across the hill nearby is Methoni with its crystal-clear waters providing an excellent swimming beach for young and old with the ruins of the Fortaleza Venecia de Methoni framing the view from a nearby spit.

MONEMVASIA

Situated on its own island with a causeway that reaches back to the mainland, Monemvasia (image above) is one of our favourite places and truly something out of a movie scene. The walled town is positioned overlooking the ocean and although quite touristy, with many of the original buildings turned into cafes and craft stores, it hasn't lost its feeling of authenticity.

Those feeling energetic can climb the many steps to the church above with wonderous views back town to the village and the boats that pass regularly out to sea.

Close by is the island of Ellafonisos (above), reachable with a shortten-minute ferry ride from the mainland. The island is small with a village that can provide food, drink, and a little shopping but its beaches are rated among the best in Greece.

NAFPLION

Briefly the capital after Greece gained independence from the Turks, Nafplion is a popular tourist location less than two hours from Athens. It sits on the Bay of Argolis with its old town area jutting into the ocean.

The shopping is very good, with many craft manufacturers producing their wares on the premises, and you can enjoy a drink or meal in the town square, along the promenade watching the luxury yachts pull in, or in some of the pretty little side streets which are often framed by the bougainvillea.

The old town is overshadowed by the Palamidis fortress, its 999 steps providing breathtaking views for those who are prepared to take it on. A short drive away is the ancient Amphitheatre of Epidavros, still used for outdoor concerts some 2000 years after it was built.

POROS

Another favourite for us is Poros which can be reached in less than two hours by ferry from Athens. Although strictly speaking an island, Poros sits just a two-minute boat ride from the mainland and is easily reachable by the small water taxis that charge just one euro for the ride across.

The main town is charming and for those wishing to take a vehicle over there is a car ferry which gives you the freedom to explore some of the beaches and backroads of the island. From the high points you can see across the Saronic Gulf and past the island of Aegina to the whitewashed buildings of Athens in the distance.

Nearby is Methana, a would-be island except for a natural land bridge that joins it to the mainland. The more adventurous can hike to the top of an extinct volcano or enjoy the natural thermal waters that pour into the ocean near the site of the main town. A half hour drive from Poros and you can be at Metoxi where you can catch a 30-minute ferry ride to Hydra.

This island is largely deserted other than the main town which is famous for its absence of traffic (donkey and by foot are the only ways of getting around) and for being the home of musician, Leonard Cohen, for a number of years.

Hydra can be a little touristy along the waterfront but head back a street or two for a real experience. Those who are fitter can climb the many streets that offer breathtaking views across the harbour and back to the Greek mainland.

COVID TRAVEL UPDATE FOR GREECE

Greece has been one of the most successful European countries at restricting the outbreak of coronavirus and as such has been open for tourism since June. Citizens of some countries are restricted from entry, so please check your own situation and more recent government website updates prior to booking.

Tony and Leanne Argyle are Kiwis who sold all their stuff, rented out the house and hit the road. They are now enjoying traversing the world as full-time travellers. You can follow their adventures, subscribe to their free magazine, and check out their in-depth interviews with other long term travellers at

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