ASAKUSA, KURAMAE

CITY GUIDE Map

Asakusa-Kuramae-Asakusabashi

From the gritty neighbourhood of Asakusabashi, through hip and artisan Kuramae to the bustle of Asakusa, we discover captivating slices of culture and history, as well as a cool collection of eateries and independent shops. These three neighbourhoods are, like most of Tokyo, extremely multi-layered and you’re unlikely to discover the true essence of each with just one visit. Our route will definitely get you started.

From the east exit of Asakusabashi JR Station, cross the wide Edo-dori road and head towards Kanda River (two minutes’ walk). From the large bridge over the main road, follow the river east for three minutes and you’ll find a peaceful area with small river boats and traditional floating restaurants before arriving at Yanagibashi. Yanagibashi means willow bridge: the photogenic green metal bridge you’ll find there was built to replace the wooden bridge lost in the 1923 Kanto Earthquake.

Housing Japan has a range of accommodation options in the neighbourhoods featured in this guide, whether it be for short, medium or long-term stays. For more information, visit housingjapan.com/short-term or call us on +81 3 3588 8862.

LIBERTAS

LITTLE YUMMY

TORIGOE SHRINE

MATSUYA

Heading north from the bridge, you’ll find characterful backstreets and, within a five-minute walk, you’ll be at Libertas, a shop with a lovely retro feel, where you can browse jewellery and leather items or even join a workshop to make your own. Libertas is owned by designer Hitoshi Hatsumi, and you’ll often find him there, as Libertas operates as both shop and factory for his brand. GoogleMaps PlusCode: MQXQ+26 www.libertas-tokyo.com

Walk a couple of hundred metres north of Libertas at the right time of day and no doubt your nose will steer you to our next selection: Little Yummy. This cute little restaurant has become something of a sensation recently, serving a large range of Japanese curry dishes but famed for its ‘vegetable plate.’ Wholesome food, welcoming staff and a cosy wooden interior make this a great place to stop for lunch. GoogleMaps PlusCode: MQXQ+59

Next on our route is Torigoe Shrine, which was founded in the 7th century. Legend has it that samurai warrior Minamoto no Yoshiie once received useful navigational advice from a white bird nearby, giving the shrine its name. Tori means bird, while goe means going over. Less than 10 minutes’ walk from Little Yummy, you’ll approach Torigoe from its elevated front section. The rear is on stilts. The split-level of the shrine harks back to the hill on which it was founded. Head here on the Sunday closest to 9 June to be treated to the wonderful Torigoe Night Festival, when many mikoshi (portable shrines) are paraded through the nearby streets. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ2P+R8

Turn left at the back of Torigoe Shrine and walk west for two minutes. You’ll soon see an arched sign straddling the quaint shopping street of Okazu-yokocho. Okazu are side dishes made with vegetables, fish or pickles that are served with traditional Japanese meals, while yokocho means alley. There are a multitude of charming small shops to explore here. If you’re a fan of chashu (braised pork), try the super-exclusive and tasty Matsuya. The cheery owner, who looks more like a Japanese rock-star than a chef, only opens from 11.30am on Saturdays. Using the best pork from around Japan, his home-cooked joints are typically made with a rare smoked soy sauce called kogashi. Once sold out, he shuts up shop, so get there as close to 11.30am as you can. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ2M+WH. www.matsuya-yakibuta.tokyo

CHIGAYA

KAKIMORI

McLEAN

SAKAI KAMBAN

Just five minutes on foot from Matsuya, bedecked with cute red chintz curtains, is Chigaya. This bakery is named after its friendly owner, Chigaya, who told us she is inspired by the tasty bread she experienced in New York, London and Paris. With a beautiful selection of sweet and savoury pastries, meat and vegetable pies, loaves and cakes all made on the premises, Chigaya definitely has an overseas atmosphere. You can take away your goodies or eat them on the spot at the wooden tables or window-facing counter, with a cup of handdripped coffee made by the owner’s husband. With delightful staff, a relaxing ambience and mouth-watering fare, Chigaya is highly recommended. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ3P+62. instagram.com/chigaya_kuramae/

Kakimori is right across the street from Chigaya. The exterior, a fusion of Japanese tradition and modernity, is where you’ll find a row of rental bicycles—should you need some exercise after visiting the bakery. Only ¥1,500 will get you a stylish bicycle with a basket for the day. Venture inside, across the colourful parquet floor, and you’re in a world of bespoke stationery: pens, pencils, handmade notebooks and paper. It’s all delivered with a level of poise and quality that is hip, but not too hip for its own good. Kakimori’s philosophy is to re-evaluate the importance of writing. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ3P+77 www.kakimori.com.

The walk from Kakimori takes roughly 20 mins at a sensible pace. Head north and gently west, towards the river, and halfway into the walk you’ll come to Umayabashi and McLean Old Burger Stand. McLean has about 14 different burgers on its menu, which can be paired with fries or other sundries. Vegetarian options are available. The Nasu-Miso Burger is great. Daily specials liven up an already great menu. There’s also handmade drip coffee. Eat-in or takeout. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ4V+2M www.mclean.jp

Founded in 1922, Fukuzendo Sakai Kamban is currently run by the third and fourth generations of the founding family, and dad still has the same cheeky smile of the seven-year-old you can see on the old photo he has in the shop, from the 1950s. Sakai and his family make traditional wood signs. Customers range from shrines to restaurants, government offices to sweet shops. The family also make signs for private customers. A beautifully carved and painted wooden nameplate for the front of your house starts at ¥30,000. Add ¥5,000 for gold-leaf. GoogleMaps PlusCode: PQ7P+XQ.