Earthy and Eclectic

T“The most important thing I learned from my Top Chef journey was how strong mentally I am, because it was one of the hardest and most stressful things I’ve ever done,” says chef Evelyn Garcia.

Those nerves of steel will come in handy with her recent debut of Jūn (420 E. 20th St., Ste A) in the Heights with co-founder Henry Lu, featuring riffs on Southeast Asian cuisine. Jūn — a nod to the birth month of Lu’s sister and Garcia’s mother — is the first brick-andmortar restaurant for both chefs.

The duo came together after both working gigs in New York kitchens. For native Houstonian Garcia, that meant honing her chops at top spots like Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Spice Market and Thai restaurant Kin Shop. After moving back to Houston, Garcia and Lu started catering company By Kin HTX, and worked in Rice Village’s Politan Row food hall until it shuttered. Since Bravo’s Top Chef: Houston, the two have been growing their business with well attended pop-up events around town.

Formerly the home of Steel City Pops, the openwarehouse-like restaurant was originally a 1950s-era washeteria. It’s been reimagined into a sleek and intimate space by celebrated hospitality designer Gin Braverman with Gin Design Group. The three distinct dining areas are fashioned with tropical plants, natural distressed floors and eclectic pieces that bring to mind a Tulummeets-Southeast-Asia aesthetic.

Behind the half-moon-shaped bar made of white concrete, there’s illuminated arched shelving. Elsewhere, sculptural wooden stools pull up to a curved dining rail, and pieces from Garcia’s own art collection adorn the space. “The clean, modern architectural lines and furnishings are enhanced with the many personal items Chef Evy has collected and arranged,” says Braverman, noting that Garcia and Lu were both collaborators throughout the process.

The overall vibe is homey and modern with earthy touches, even down to the handmade ceramics from Oaxaca, Mexico, on which every dish is served.

All 15 or so “new Asian American” menu items are designed to be shared. Come hungry — for dinner only, at the moment — for taste adventures including Gulf shrimp with avocado and taro; raw oysters with fermented mango; and beef tartare with toasted rice. Whole branzino dusted with cinnamon, clove and guajillo; lamb in soulful curry with pistachios; and

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Thai chili fried chicken are a few of the recipes passed down from generations.

For a deliciously different dessert, consider the nuegados, a yuca-mochi-like donut finished with star anise, orange zest and pilonsillo syrup. Rather sip a cocktail to complement the fare? Try the beautiful, cool and refreshing sake-based Thai One On or even a “zero-proof” cocktail like the Holé Molé, with almond mole, condensed milk, dulce de leche and Mexican coke. 

Muse opens soon in the former Emmaline space, with exec chef E.J. Miller and GM Patty Burbach, an alum of Mastro’s and MAD. The largely shareable menu will tout Asianinspired steaks, seafood and — as per the trend of 2023 sushi. Expect a sultry reno of the interior space.

“French Cowboy,” Philippe Schmit has returned to the Houston restaurant scene. PS21 is a “laid-back,” modern approach to French fare in the Upper Kirby building previously home to Queen Vic and Olive & Twist. On the menu: duck breast Wellington, and steak tartare Rossini with seared foie gras and truffle vinaigrette.

Channeling the mezze style of dining in Greece, the

Lounge at March has expanded its food menu. Shared snacks include foie gras loukoumades, caviar service with accoutrements like tzatziki and pita; and more. Opa!

Australian-inspired coffee roaster and café Bluestone Lane is now open in Rice Village. Located near CB2 and West Elm, the coffeeshop is known for its award-winning coffee and healthyleaning menu.

Neighborhood bar Heights & Co.’s ticketed event series has popular local chefs taking over the kitchen every other Wednesday this spring. Find tasting menus from the brains behind Mastrantos, Tiny Boxwood’s and others. Tickets available via Resy.