GUIDEBOOK

Ship Shape The Independence of the Seas

NOW YOU SEA US

Cruising just returned to Galveston, and ‘CityBook’ was onboard. By Ed Nawotka

“WE’RE BACK!” shouted the cruise director of the Independence of the Seas, the Covid-cautious Royal Caribbean cruise ship that started sailing out of Galveston again in August for first time in 16 months, his fist raised and festooned in his black tuxedo jacket, following a set by comedian Paul Ogata on the first day of a four-day sail from Galveston and Cozumel. The Australian-born entertainment coordinator, in her skin-tight denim bodysuit, on the penultimate night of the cruise, at the ship’s ’70s “Disco Inferno” dance party, said the same thing.

Other events included a glittery ice-skating show — there’s an ice rink on board! — a performance by El Gaucho, a Uruguayan who does dangerous stunts with a pair of swinging bolas, and the crooning tenor Darryl Williams. There are also nightly karaoke sessions, piano-driven singalongs and name-thattune contests.

Other attractions on board include a rock-climbing wall, basketball court, a wave pool where you can simulate surfing and boogie boarding, the threestories-high “Perfect Storm” duo waterslide, where you can race a friend. There’s a casino, complete with roulette, card tables and slots. And shopping, were you can buy a new Breitling Navitimer Cosmos, or a handbag from Michael Kors, or candy-colored Lacoste polo.

And then there’s the food. Consider multi-course chef’s tasting menus in the multi-story main dining room — or high-end Italian, a steakhouse, a damn fine English-style fish-and-chips shop, a branch of Johnny Rockets, a sports bar, a pub, a wine bar, a Champagne lounge and a Japanese sushi spot complete with several food-flipping teppanyaki tables for family-style entertainment dining.

Multiple cruise dates are set for fall and winter. 

P.V. Made Easy

Thanks to these sensational sister resorts, a quick getaway to Puerto Vallarta is a no-brainer. By Jeff Gremillion

PUERTO VALLARTA, THE

beautiful Mexican resort town on the Pacific, flanked by the Sierra Madre mountains, is an increasingly popular destination for Houstonians, and for good reason.

Direct flights are quicker and easier than most domestic destinations. And now a pair of sprawling resorts under the same management firm, both literally just minutes from the P.V. airport, near Marina Vallarta on Bandera Bay, make the idea of a quick trip all the more appealing. With a bit of luck, you can literally be sipping fruity drinks from a coconut at the swim-up bar less than three hours after boarding your plane in H-Town.

The Marriott Resort Puerto Vallarta, with an all-inclusive option, is noted for its slick recent contemporary-minded remodel, sexy open-air vibe and onsite seaturtle rescue operation. A footballfield-sized infinity-style pool takes up most of the seaside grounds. Teeming with pretty people, many of them Texans, the pool has a unique, partly in-the-water, two-tiered outdoor lounge in the corner.

Even a rainy evening, which can happen in these parts, is lovely, as songs like Elton John’s “Tiny Dancer” echo through the downpour, a sweet soundtrack for watching a storm roll in from a bougainvilleabedecked balcony. Other memorable moments may be had at the Ohtli spa, which touts couples treatments, or sunrise yoga on the beach.

Meal options at the Marriott are immense and wonderful. There’s an ice cream parlor off the lobby, and, at the big breakfast bar, a chilaquiles station. Las Casitas by the sea has a burrito stuffed with shrimp, peppers, caramelized onions and serrano ailoi, with a gratin of cheddar cheese seared onto the outside; it’s a wow. For more upscale meals, there’s Mikado, with pretty sushi and Japanese teppanyaki performance cooking. Or you can book a private

Shell Game Clockwise from left: The Marriott’s pool and pool bar, cool cocktails at the Westin, baby turtles safe and sound.

dining room or the twinkle-lighted herb garden for a tequila tasting of the resort’s private label, or a multi-course meal with jalapeño-roasted lobster and guava cheesecake.

The Westin Resort & Spa, Puerto Vallarta has similar amenities, including towering indoor-outdoor spaces and its own spa, with men’s and women’s private spaces with indoor pools and waterfalls. The vibe is different here, though, a bit less razzle-dazzle and bit more verdant, with lushly landscaped grounds, and a big freeform pool that seems to wind and curve throughout. Mature ficus trees with foliage shaped into squares provide shaded nooks here and there.

The Westin kitchen will make you a picnic of cheese and charcuterie and mini-baguette sandwiches of brie and pear or roasted duck and berry relish — chomp them after a morning kayaking in the bahía. At night, dine on grilled octopus or mahi mahi at the open-air steakhouse; at late night have a street-food-style burger, grilled at a cart in front of you and topped with chorizo and mushrooms, in the grandest sports-bar setting ever, a vast and soaring terrace that overlooks the whole property like Evita overlooking Argentina.

The whole point of these convenient resorts is that you never have to leave. But if you choose to, suggested excursions include a hike or a zipline adventure at the Canopy River preserve outside town. Here, you can access a covered patio bar situated atop a deep ravine and stocked with Corona by traversing the world’s longest vehicle-safe suspension bridge.

Or take a 30-minute hotel shuttle ride south to the cobblestone streets of old downtown P.V. for souvenir shopping, or a stroll along the art-strewn, waterfront Malecon, where joggers and small-boat fisherman alight in early morning. Or downtown’s nightlife-savvy Zona Romantica, where the LGBT crowd, including many a Houston gay, gets rowdy after hours. 

AVENTURA ADVENTURE

Horse around — and shop till you drop — in an unexpected section of Miami. By Jeff Gremillion

A NEW HILTON property in an area of South Florida maybe a bit less explored by Houstonians — with great beaches, shopping, dining and cultural draws — is offering a new take on a Miami weekender.

Located in Aventura, 12 miles north of Miami and 12 miles south of Fort Lauderdale, amid those semi-suburban sections known for ritzy high-rises and over-the-top single-family homes, the Hilton Aventura Miami opened in the spring. Its ethos is warmly contemporary, like a chic living room, with soaring lobby lounge spaces appointed with dangling art installations that double as chandeliers; the Muse bar is a good place to take it in, munching on truffle popcorn and sipping a Farmer’s Vice cocktail with tequila, jalapeño and fresh carrot juice.

Other onsite activities include yoga on a sunny terrace, rosé all day at the pool or the adjacent greenspace lined with mod cabanas, or dining at Gala restaurant. At the latter, dinner may start with tostones with braised chicken thighs, Cuban-style black beans and chili aioli, and move on to cast-iron-seared grouper with purple sweet potato, braised kale and key lime butter. Brunch here is special, with pretty avocado toast, and yogurt parfait with basil honey, lavender granola and edible flowers.

Nearby, take in attractions such as Haulover Beach, home to America’s largest public nude beach. Or, if you’re looking for fun with your pants on — party pooper — the Aventura Mall, with a flagship Bloomingdale’s, is the fifth-largest mall in the country (300,000 square feet larger than the Galleria.) Those in need of an art fix can hit up North Miami’s smart Museum of Contemporary Art.

The outings perhaps most worthy of a quick-getaway itinerary are dinner at South Beach-esque Etaru Japanese Bar & Grill at Hallandale Beach — where Robata-style grilled seafood and lavishly presented sashimi platters are served on a large, chill terrace overlooking the Atlantic — or playing the ponies, Moscow Mule in hand, at the spiffy Gulfstream Park horserace track and casino, which also has cool shops, art galleries and funfood restaurants. 

Marvelous Miami Chic cabanas at the Hilton and, below, Gulfstream Park gets racy.

GuideBook

Here’s where to dine, what to order, and who to know now in the most deliciously diverse city in America.

Goan Sear Halibut at Mahesh's Kitchen

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DINING DISTRICT 1

MEMORIAL, GALLERIA AREA, RIVER OAKS, UPPER KIRBY, MONTROSE

51FIFTEEN american

Located inside Saks Fifth Avenue in the Galleria, this two-story restaurant is a design dream, with an oversize spiral staircase joining the first-floor coffee-and-wine bar to the second-floor dining room. The restaurant’s lunch and dinner plates are as pretty as the designer wares. 5175 Westheimer Rd., 713.623.6100

A’BOUZY american

This sceney restaurant and patio combines a menu of shareable plates with prime meats and a raw bar. Pick from the substantial wine list that includes more than 250 Champagnes or sparklings. Excellent take-out and delivery specials! 2300 Westheimer Rd., 713.722.6899

ADAIR KITCHEN american

This Tanglewood neighborhood gem is popular for its cold-pressed juices, big breakfasts and giant salads. Healthful home-style meals are casual and quick, but regulars are known to settle in with a bottle of wine at dinnertime and stay awhile. 5161 San Felipe St., 713.623.6100

AMALFI italian

Charming Amalfi touts coastal Italian dishes like homemade fettuccine in creamy black-truffle sauce by Salerno native chef Giancarlo Ferrara. 6100 Westheimer Rd., 713.532.2201

AVONDALE FOOD & WINE

french

L’Olivier on Westheimer is now Avondale Food & Wine. Expect still-amazing shareable plates that chef Olivier Ciesielski rotates seasonally. There’s a private dining room filled with 100 bottles of wine, selected by consultant Nate Rose, available for retail purchase. 240 Westheimer Rd., 713.360.6313

BACKSTREET CAFÉ american

Housed in a two-story 1930s home, Hugo Ortega’s Backstreet Café became a River Oaks staple 30 years ago. Expect a menu boasting an imaginative take on seasonal fare along with hefty vegetarian selections. 1103 S. Shepherd Dr., 713.521.2239

BCN TASTE & TRADITION

spanish

Named after Barcelona’s airport code, BCN offers authentic

Spanish cuisine in a whitetablecloth setting. The specialty gin and tonics are a musthave, as is the Spanish Iberico ham. 4210 Roseland St., 832.834.3411

NEW! BLUDORN american

Aaron Bludorn — who’s worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants and appeared on Netflix’s The Final Table — and his wife Victoria Bludorn (née Pappas, of that Pappas family) deliver a Gulf-tinged New American menu and low-key fine-dining to Montrose.

BOLLO WOODFIRED PIZZA

italian

Although it’s authentic

Neapolitan pizza baked at 800 degrees has been cited as among the best in the country, the real draw here maybe the intimate neighborhoody vibe and friendly staff. Oh, and the lobster ravioli. 2202 West Alabama St., 713.677.0391

BRENNER’S ON THE BAYOU

steakhouse

Enjoy dinner with a view at this steakhouse nestled on the lush banks of Buffalo Bayou. Steaks, sides and decadent desserts are all good bets, and the restaurant’s hip Blue Bar offers a less formal — yet still sophisticated — vibe with craft cocktails. One Birdsall St., 713.868.4444

CARACOL mexican/seafood

Hugo Ortega’s seafood-savvy concept boasts Mexican coastal cuisine in a swanky, mod space on Post Oak. Order the banana-leaf-wrapped sea bass or coal-roasted peppered tuna, and spring for the signature El Coco dessert and use a wooden mallet to crack open its chocolate shell. 2200 Post Oak Blvd., 713.622.9996

UPDATE! COMMON BOND

bakery

Enjoy gourmet coffee and buttery croissants as big as your face at this Montrose bakery and cafe. Take advantage of the free Wi-Fi and post up with a lavender latte on the dogfriendly patio. There’s a drivethrough location now open in the Heights, and another coming soon to Garden Oaks! 1706 Westheimer Rd., 713.529.3535

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

DA MARCO italian

High-end Da Marco puts a luxurious spin on Tuscan cuisine with dishes like spaghetti-andsea-urchin and sweet-corn ravioli with lobster. The elegant space is one often considered for special occasions. 1520 Westheimer Rd.

DESSERT GALLERY bakery

This Upper Kirby café is clean and bright, with colorful treats that range from bite-size brownies to decadent custom cakes for big parties. Sit and enjoy with a cappuccino. 3600 Kirby Dr., 713.522.9999

UPDATE! DISH SOCIETY

american

Fast-casual diner Dish Society is known for its relationships with local purveyors. From fresh

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CITYBOOK DINING DISTRICTS

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1 Memorial, Galleria Area, River Oaks, Upper Kirby and Montrose

2 Garden Oaks, the Heights, Washington Corridor

3 Midtown, Downtown, EaDo, Third Ward, Fifth Ward

4 Bellaire, West University, Museum District, Med Center

CityBook Partner

Join our white truffle dinner on Wednesday, October 27

juices to the customizable farmer’s plate, diners love the revolving menu of clean eats. Now open in Bellaire! 5740 San Felipe St., 832.538.1060

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

DORIS METROPOLITAN

steakhouse

This glam steakhouse in the old Triniti space is inspired by Middle Eastern flavors. Hot tip: The breadbasket alone may be worth the trip, with rolls flavored with caramelized onions and presented with crushed-tomato spreads and herb butters. 2815 S. Shepherd Dr.

EL TIEMPO tex-mex

El Tiempo — now open in Kingwood and The Woodlands — delivers Tex-Mex in a big way with platters like the ancho-glazed grilled quail with cheese enchiladas and spicy shrimp chalupas. Pair with a peach margarita and be sure to save room for tres leches cake and sopapillas. 322 Westheimer Rd, 713.807.8101

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

ELOISE NICHOLS southern

Regulars post up at this Highland Village restaurant where hearty plates like the maple-brined grilled pork chop are offered alongside craft cocktails and wine. Breakfast is served on weekday mornings and happy hour — “Afternoon Bites” include a yummy cheese board — is offered daily. 2400 Mid Lane, Ste. 100, 713.554.0136

UPDATE! FADI’S mediterranean

Founded nearly 25 years ago by Lebanese immigrants, Fadi’s is the city’s go-to for Middle Eastern, with a big menu of wraps, kebabs, delicious familyrecipe hummus, fresh breads and much more. It's now back in the Galleria area, after having closed its former flagship there a few years back. 6365 Westheimer Rd., 713.532.0666

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

FIG & OLIVE mediterranean

Taste the elegant — and healthful — flavors of coastal Mediterranean cuisine in the expansive 7,000-square-foot restaurant in the Galleria, which features a terrace, lounge and two lavish private dining rooms. In the Galleria, 832.632.6632

FLEMING'S steakhouse

Situated at the corner of West Alabama and Kirby, this River Oaks steakhouse is beloved for its happening happy hour and impeccable service. 2405 W. Alabama St., 713.520.5959

FLOWER CHILD vegetarian

Wash down a scratch-made vegan wrap — the Thai Dye has spicy tofu and daikon radish — with flavored lemonade or organic wine or beer at this healthy resto. New location just opened in the Heights! In Uptown Park, 713.730.4261

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

GEORGIA JAMES steakhouse

Chris Shepherd puts a distinct spin, as only he can, on this steakhouse named after his parents. Cast-ironseared or wood-fire-grilled steaks from 44 Farms are presented with sides like Steen’s-vinaigrette-dressed Brussels sprouts. 1100 Westheimer Rd., 832.241.5088

GROTTO RISTORANTE italian

Find sophisticated takes on

Italian classics like Veal San Pietro. A festive Sunday brunch brings French toast with Grand Marnier batter and frozen peach Bellinis. 4715 Westheimer Rd., 713.622.3663

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

HUGO’S mexican

Chef Hugo Ortega’s namesake restaurant is a Houston staple, serving up authentic Mexican cuisine with margaritas to match. Guests love the festive weekend brunch buffet where indulging in seconds — even thirds! — is a must. 1600 Westheimer Rd., 713.524.7744

KATA ROBATA japanese

Discreetly situated in a retail center, this top-notch sushi bar serves up fresh, innovative Japanese dishes daily under the direction of executive chef Manabu Horiuchi. Try a heaping bowl of spicy soy ramen — or Chef Hori’s inventive new caviar service. 3600 Kirby Dr., 713.526.8858

KILLEN'S southern

Ronnie Killen’s first inner-Loop endeavor is now open in the former Hickory Hollow space. At Killen’s, expect much of the same mouthwatering comfort-food fare experienced at his fried-chicken pop-ups throughout the last year, plus fried green tomatoes with buttermilk sauce, and an ever-comforting chicken-anddumplings dish. 101 Heights Blvd., 713.637.4664

LA GRIGLIA italian

From caprese salad to wild mushroom lasagna, the menu at La Griglia is simple, but elegant. When Houston weather permits, enjoy the patio, complete with fire pits and scenic River Oaks views. 2002 W. Gray St., 713.526.4700

LE COLONIAL french/vietnamese

French-Vietnamese cuisine is presented in a posh space in River Oaks District. Dishes like the crispy whole duck — which serves up to four people and must be ordered in advance — are authentic and full-flavored. Weekend brunch brings Vietnamese steak and eggs and “exotic” mimosas! 4444 Westheimer Rd., 713.629.4444

MAD spanish

Everything at this BCN sister concept — from the mirror-lined hall to the bathroom and the cartoon-like, cheese-stuffed shiny red MAD Tomato — is photoworthy. Reservations weeks in advance highly recommended. 4444 Westheimer Rd., 281.888.2770

MALA SICHUAN chinese

This longtime Chinatown favorite is equally popular inside the Loop, where its corner location in a Montrose shopping strip is reminiscent of a trendy New York resto. Mala’s menu packs a punch with dishes like the dry-pot chicken and three-pepper duck. Now open in Sugar Land! 1201 Westheimer Rd., 832.767.0911

NEW! MARCH mediterranean

A highly anticipated, exclusive and pricey tasting-menu-only affair, March lives up to the hype. Posh snacks in the lounge include bite-size vehicles for caviar and foie gras; the main event is six or nine courses of highly refined, Mediterranean-inspired dishes by chef-owner Felipe Riccio. 1624 Westheimer Rd., march restaurant.com

MASTRO'S steakhouse

At more-is-more Mastro’s,

Vegas comes to Houston, with everything but showgirls and roulette wheels. Try something out of the steakhouse box, like the Wagyu hamburger helper. 1650 W. Loop S., 713.993.2500

MERUS GRILL american

Uptown Park’s newly enhanced dining scene includes industrialglam Merus Grill, from the folks at J. Alexander’s. The menu touts beautifully prepared, classic American dishes — fresh seafood, burgers, piled-high salads. 1180 Uptown Park Blvd., 346.299.5775

NARIN’S BOMBAY BRASSERIE

south asian

Indulge in saag paneer and chicken tikka masala (and oh so much more) at this traditional Indian restaurant run by father-and-son team Narin and Sanjay Sehgal. Visit during weekend brunch and see what’s cooking on the tandoor in the main dining room. 3005 W. Loop S., 713.622.2005

NOBU sushi

At socialite-savvy Nobu, hyperinformed waiters float around, delivering bite-sized delicacies on geometric white plates to tables. Unique takes on sushi include ones with pickled cucumbers, Shiso leaf and Japanese mackerel. In the Galleria, 832.987.2599

NORTH ITALIA italian

Stop in to this hip Uptown Italian restaurant for happy hour on weekday evenings and all day on Sundays to enjoy the $20 special: a choice of a pizza, bruschetta, or meat-and-cheese board, with a bottle of wine. In BLVD Place, 281.605.4030

UPDATE! ONE FIFTH gulf cuisine

In its final phase, Shepherd's groundbreaking One Fifth is currently exploring the full breadth and depth of tomato season! 1658 Westheimer Rd., 713.955.1024

OUISIE'S TABLE southern

This River Oaks institution serving Southern standards — shrimp and cheese grits, New Orleans red snapper, chicken and waffles at brunch! — is charming. With a beautiful patio and private rooms, it’s a popular locale for showers, receptions and more, too. 3939 San Felipe St., 713.528.2264

OUZO BAY mediterranean

This Greek spot in River Oaks District, known for its eye-catching seafood displays and simply delicious whole-fish presentation, is next door to the whiskey-centric

Loch Bar. 4444 Westheimer Rd., 832.430.6610

PAPPAS BROS. STEAKHOUSE

steakhouse

Given its expansive wine list and in-house dry-aging process, diners can expect nothing short of perfection when dining at familyowned Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. Visit the newest location in the heart of Downtown. 5839 Westheimer Rd., 713.780.7352

PEPPER TWINS chinese

Don’t take the “pepper” in foodie fave Pepper Twins lightly. The dishes at this Szechuan-style restaurant, now open in CityCentre, incorporate serious spices like the fresh nine-leaf peppercorn, helping customers to feel the burn. Try the mung bean smoothie! 315 Fairview St., 832.649.7175

multiple locations visit restaurant website for details

RAGIN’ CAJUN cajun

Crawfish season is here! There’s no better spot to get the fixins for a backyard boil than the original Ragin’ Cajun on Richmond. Don’t miss Jambalaya Tuesday, when a bowl is served with bread and a drink for just $10. 4302 Richmond Ave., 713.623.6321

RELISH american

Quick counter service is offered for lunch and brunch at this café run by a husband and wife team, while evenings are reserved for a full-service dining experience. 2810 Westheimer Rd., 713.599.1960

RISTORANTE CAVOUR italian

When a European vacation is not in the immediate future, visit the romantic Ristorante Cavour inside Hotel Granduca. The elegant menu, executed by Maurizio Ferrarese, boasts Italian plates and a wine list for days. 1080 Uptown Park Blvd., 713.418.1104

UPDATE! RIEL american

Riel offers an American menu inspired by local color and chef Ryan Lachaine’s Ukrainian heritage; the Montreal smoked meat is splashed with French’s mustard. Check out the sandwiches at lunchtime, when Riel operates as Louie’s. 1927 Fairview St., 832.831.9109

UPDATE! STATE OF GRACE

southern

Grab a seat at the oyster bar during happy hour for $1 oysters at chef Ford Fry’s River Oaks restaurant. Dining out with the fam? Try the festive Sunday supper for $29/ person. The new weekend brunch touts mouthwatering cinnamon rolls and batch cocktails — even to-go! 3258 Westheimer Rd., 832.942.5080

STEAK 48 steakhouse

A steakhouse standout delivers in its rich side dishes — the Hasselback potatoes are excellent — and desserts. Crowds of pretty people pour in early and stay late, so reservations are recommended. In River Oaks District, 713.322.7448

NEW! TONIGHT & TOMORROW

european

Storied Montrose hotel La Colombe d’Or has reopened after years of restoration, and its restaurant was worth the wait. Expect eclectic but sophisticated European dishes with Southern touches. Be sure to check out the cocktail lounge, Bar No. 3. 3410 Montrose Blvd., 713.517.1001

TONY’S italian

A cherished part of the Houston dining scene, Tony Vallone’s namesake restaurant is an exquisite treat from start to finish. Opt for the three-, five- or seven-course tasting menu for a true culinary experience, featuring the foie gras flambé — a feast for the senses! 3755 Richmond Ave., 713.622.67788

UPDATE! TRIBUTE southern

At this restaurant in the Houstonian hotel, savor unique fare that blends the flavors of Texas, Louisiana and Mexico. Book the private wine room for a special occasion and pick your own playlist! 111 N. Post Oak Ln., 713.680.2626

2202 W. ALABAMA | 713.677.0391