eight cylinder M3s that came before it?

OWNING 007’s ROADSTER!

Words/Photographs – Jeff Heywood, BMW Classic Development of BMW’s allnew sports roadster started in 1991 under the watchful eye of Project Manager Burkhard Göschel. The retro styled exterior was designed by Joji Nagashima, being completed in mid-‘92, with the design being frozen in ’93. Production began on 20th September 1995 at BMW’s Spartanburg, South Carolina, plant and BMW launched the Z3 sports roadster worldwide in 1996 to critical acclaim. This followed the Z3’s appearance in the James Bond film GoldenEye in late ’95, which forever cemented the Z3 in movie folklore for being the steed of James Bond, even if it was only a brief relationship in the film…

The Z3’s appearance in GoldenEye was a masterstroke by BMW’s marketing team, as sales of the Z3 spiked as the film sat at number one at the box office. At the 1996 launch*, more than 15,000 roadsters were sold out by the time the car was introduced! BMW were also very clever in choosing to build an American plant to manufacture the Z3, mainly for marketing reasons. In 1992, work began on the Spartanburg plant. BMW’s plans for the Z3 centred around producing a competitively-priced and attractivelystyled entry-level roadster that would be fun to drive and satisfying to own. The sales success of the Mazda MX-5 in America was something that BMW felt it could emulate with the Z3; a model that it was confident would prove popular with US buyers.

During the Z3’s lifetime, BMW went on to produce 279,273 Roadsters and 17,815 Coupe** models, although both figures include the M versions. Interestingly, the Z in Z1/3/4/8 stands for Zukunft in German, meaning future.

People looking for a cost effective sports roadster are now turning to BMW’s Z3 in droves, now that they have realised the motoring scribes favourite, the Mazda MX-5, is slowly returning to mother earth as rust eats away at many first and even second-gen models, making the Z3 a smart alternative. There’s the Mercedes SLK to consider, but very few came with a manual ‘box in what is after all, a sports car, and in any case, finding an honest, rust-free gen-one car is tough. The Z3 it is then. Not that everyone thought so at launch. Motoring hacks and hardcore drivers alike bemoaned its relative lack of power and on-limit thrills, but the handsome roadster sold like hot cakes to people happy with its surprisingly secure reardrive handling, butch, retro styling that took some of its cues from the venerable BMW 507 and solid build quality. When the Z3 first hit the market, importers were bringing right-hand-drive Z3s into the UK

A nice Titan Silver LCI Z3 2.0 6-cylinder with the 150hp M52TUB20 engine

‘under the table’!

Anyway, that was all long ago and the game has since changed to finding decent used Z3s with reasonable mileages, tight, leak-free hoods, reliable cooling systems, secure rear diff mounts and solid service histories. Remember, we’re now talking about a soft top that is up to 23 years old (we won’t be covering the M Roadster in this article). The first Z3s to hit UK BMW showrooms in ’97 were powered by a BMW M43B19 140bhp 1.9-litre 16-valve four-cylinder engine. The first 1.9 powered Z3s weren’t the ball of fire sportscars the motoring press were expecting so they received a bit of negative press. This was unfair because they are sprightly enough and outperform similarly powered sportscars, plus the M43 engine can also be tuned.

They were joined a year later in 1998 by a more charismatic BMW M52B28 2.8-litre 24-valve straight six with 192bhp but still using a five-speed gearbox. The 2.8 was also available with an optional 4-speed GM autobox (as was the 1.9.) Some argue the auto ’box suits the 2.8 better than the manual, but I prefer the 2.8 in manual form. The 2.8 Z3 was well received by the motoring press and public alike, the extra grunt giving the car a 0-60mph time of 6.6 seconds.

The M52B28 engine in the 2.8 powered model was replaced by the M52TUB28 2.8 engine in 1999, now with 193bhp and 5Nm more torque (280Nm v 275Nm). Performance was slightly improved, but the replacement was more to do with emissions than outright pace.

Also in 1999 the M43B19 1.9 lost four of its valves and some of its power to become an eight-valve unit with a lowly 114bhp – enough to cover 0-60mph in 10 seconds. This may not sound so sportscar-like but after owning one of these 114 horsepower models for three years now I can attest that they still provide for a thrilling and sporty drive. There was also method in BMW’s madness though, since the withdrawal of the more powerful 1.9 opened the door to a M52TUB20 2.0-litre six engine with 150hp to fill the gap. A year later in 2000, that was superseded by a M54B22 2.2-litre six with 170bhp and a subseven-second 0-60mph time.

At the same time the 2.8 Z3 was replaced by BMW’s M54B30 3.0-litre six engine with 231bhp and 300Nm of torque. This gave the 3-litre Z3 a 0-60mph time of 5.5 seconds, which was quick. The 3.0-litre Z3 was available as a 5-speed manual as standard or with a 5-speed ZF autobox. An easy way to differentiate between cars is by the Z3’s tailpipes - four-cylinder cars have a single tailpipe and six-cylinder ones have dual ‘pipes.

In addition to its greater power, the 2.8-litre models have a wider rear track than the pre-LCI 1.9-litre models and came with goodies including a powered hood and leather seats. As with most versions, air-conditioning and 17-inch alloys were optional. It had BMW’s single VANOS valve timing but later versions gained double VANOS control of both camshafts. If the system is giving trouble, Dr VANOS (drvanos.com) can help.

The engine changes of 2000 were accompanied by a worthwhile LCI facelift that saw all versions gain wider rear wheel arches, plus redesigned tail-lights and a relocated centre brake light. The interior got a light makeover too. Sport 2.2 and 3.0-litre cars gained M Sport springs and BBS 17-inch alloys.

It is pointless going into any great detail about standard and optional accessories fitted to Z3s, mainly because most were purchased by private buyers as weekend toys and were hence very well optioned. I’m afraid you’ll just have to enquire - some are lavishly kitted out and make for great finds

From a buyer’s point of view, the fact that so much of the Z3’s componentry was carried over from the pre-existing E30 and E36 3 Series models is a good thing. It means that everything is wellestablished in reliability terms, and all the characteristic problems are out there and known about, and with BMW build quality being what it is and owners being the enthusiasts they are, you should have little difficulty finding a good Z3. Just watch out for cars that have fallen into the hands of boy racers who have played about with their Zed, cutting springs to lower the car etc. Just stick to the original cars with full service history. A well-looked after Z3 should be rattle free on a road test, feeling solid and well screwed together. Z3s handle well, but lack a little in outright grip; they aren’t as nimble as a Porsche Boxster, the grip issue being more noticeable in the higher powered models; a penalty for using the old semi-trailing arm rear suspension from the E30. It works well, however, and suits the car. The general handling characteristic is for the car to remain neutral and then slightly understeer.

Here are some things to look out for - Engine

An engine warning light on four-pot Z3 could be a failed lambda sensor; if you experience rough running on post-2000

The Z3’s attractive interior is well equipped and built to last. The interior seat and door trim came in a vast selection of colours, and the later LCI Sport models had a two-tone leather trim similar to the M Roadster…

six-pots with VANOS this could be the camshaft position sensor. Listen for dualmass flywheel rattles and for a six-pot engine tapping on start-up (an oil change might cure it). Anything louder could be drive belt tensioners. New starter motors on four-pot engines are expensive.

The 2.8 models very rarely develop VANOS problems - listen for the tell-tale ticking from the front of the engine as repairs can turn out to be expensive. Thermostats can also play up on this engine, so any signs of warmer-thannormal running should prompt a change. It also makes sense to renew the water pump at the same time, as the pumps often fail.

If you find a Z3 that is ‘right’ except that the engine that makes the car difficult to drive smoothly, being jerky under load, then it could be the throttle cable sticking. It can’t be lubricated, so replacement is the only solution, but it will make a big difference to throttle control and feel.

Cooling System

Thermostats last around 60-80k miles but can stick in the open position. Check its housing, the radiator and the top hose connection for leaks. Listen for water pump noises; replacement is easiest on six-cylinder cars. Fan coupling lasts 80k miles or so. Check oil for coolant contamination.

Transmission

A sticky manual gear change on 2.8 models may require fresh oil. On all manuals, feel for clutch drag. Other than that, manual ‘boxes are relatively bullet proof. Everything wears with use and time, but the manual ‘box shouldn’t throw up any nasty surprises until a car reaches mega-high mileage when it may then necessitate a rebuild or replacement.

Check an auto ‘box has had new fluid; check the rear diff mount’s condition. The auto-boxes are very reliable but not so desirable now. If they

A nice example of an LCI Z3 3.0 – the car has been fitted with chrome side grills that aren’t everyone’s cup of tea…

feel sluggish, a switch to a fully synthetic lubricant will improves matters.

Suspension and Steering

Check front and rear anti-roll bar drop links, as wear in these is a common issue on pre-2001 models. Also check front lower ball joints and inner bushes. Dampers fail at around 80k miles, so you’ll find aftermarket Bilsteins with Eibach springs are common on highermileage cars. Check the variable steering pump for leaks. Check all bushes etc. for wear - although the Z3 is a generally decent-handling machine, the use of dated suspension technology (a mix of E30/E36) has created a few issues. As cars age, wear in the front wishbone bushes can create a disconcerting ‘tramlining’ effect. It is especially noticeable on uneven road surfaces. Replacing the tired and inadequate rubber bushes with harder, polyurethane alternatives, sorts out this issue. Some owners also opt to fit a strut brace across the top of the engine, to tighten things still further. Worn bushes in the rear suspension can also be a problem, leading to play in the axle mountings and a generally wayward feeling at the back-end. Fitting replacement bushes in the rear control arms sorts this issue out. Finally, with regard to suspension, check the condition of both the front and rear anti-roll bar drop link bushes.

Bodywork

Check the evenness of panel gaps and the consistency of paint colour. Check for rust around door bottoms, wheel arches, around the boot lock and fuel tank for damage. The main rust-prone area on a Z3 are the sills, especially the rear ends, which are prone to rusting due to water and mud being forced behind the plastic wheel arch liners. It is a relatively easy problem to fix as the panels bolt on but it’s still going to cost a few hundred quid to put right. Check the door mirrors, as the frames are alloy and corrode, so be careful when you turn/twist them inwards towards the door, as they can snap off! Keep an eye out for stone-chip damage, especially on the flanks, immediately ahead of the rear wheels where the wing panel flares out. The bonnet slam panel can also suffer with surface rusting, so check this as well. Don’t be concerned if you notice that the paint is a different colour under the bonnet – it was typically finished in a lighter shade at the factory.

I would always recommend viewing a car on a ramp so that you can give the underside of the car a good going over, obviously looking for rust but also be on the lookout for accident damage, which is difficult to hide underneath. If it doesn’t look right, or is covered in

The Z3’s boot isn’t huge, which you’d expect in a small sports roadster, but it is a reasonable space and the CD changer box can be removed (top left) to give a bit more space for squashy bags. The storage compartment fitted to the underside of the bootlid is an aftermarket item but looks a good idea for storing odds and ends and is finished in a material that won’t damage other items being carried I the boot…

thick underseal, walk away unless you are 100% convinced with the vendor’s explanation.

Interior

An illuminated airbag warning light is probably a faulty seatbelt receiver. Knocks and rattles could be failing rear suspension top mounts. The interior is very robust and durable, it is testament to the Z3’s build quality, so there shouldn’t be any rattles or knocking etc. If you do hear any noises it’s probably down to someone having part of the dash out or glovebox etc. If a Z3 has been well looked after the interior should be in excellent condition.

Hood

As you would expect with a roadster, the hood section is the largest. Hoods are of a good quality, generally keep out the elements well and serious water leaks are rare. One of the few places to watch is around the tops of the windows, where water can get in. The rubber seals are best treated with a smear of Vaseline in this area, and it’s also good practice to lower the windows an inch or so when raising the hood, and then close them once the hood and its rubbers are securely in place. Electrically-powered hoods are a desirable option, and the motor that operates them shouldn’t provide any problems. If the powered hood isn’t operating, it will probably be a fault with the top controller modules, which can play up. If you do need a new hood, there are plenty of outlets out there who will fit a new hood to your Z3. Do the obvious and make sure the replacement hood is of a good quality. Replacement can cost between £700 - £1200.

It may sound obvious but make sure you also check the plastic rear window for cracks. Replacement rear windows are readily available both OEM from BMW and aftermarket, but will cost

approx. £270-380 to replace, depending on the trimmer you choose. You can D-I-Y with the window fitting, which ‘zips’ into place (in a fashion) but you need fourteen hands and the patience of a saint to complete. But, if you are handy with your hands and feel confident then give it a try, as per usual there are YouTube videos showing you how, they just don’t provide the extra pair of hands!

Also worth knowing

Service indicator lights can easily be reset, so scrutinise workshop bills. Look for oil and filter changes using BMW-approved synthetic oil at 6000 miles, plugs and transmission and diff oil at 18,000, and new brake fluid every two years. Air-con needs re-gassing every four years.

Finally, on the mechanical side of things, while the Z3’s brakes are excellent, the pump and circuit board for the ABS system are combined as one unit that sits beneath the windscreen washer reservoir. Any leaks can cause expensive damage; replacements cost over £1,000 from BMW…

How much to spend

£500-£1200-ish: Early 1.9 runners with big mileages to 98-reg 2.0s with 120k miles for £1995. Tatty cars that are going to cost money to put right, but sometimes you can land lucky and find a car with faults that aren’t costly, giving you a reliable sportscar for little outlay. £1800-£3499: Smarter early 1.9s, the 114bhp 1.9s, and some 2.0 and 2.2s with around 80-120k miles. Maybe a mega high mileage 2.8 with work needed or just tatty and unloved – beware! £3500-£4999: 1.9s with low mileages and full service history in pristine condition. 2000-onward cars with 70k+ miles. High-ish mileage 2.8s that might need work. £5000-£6999: Early 2.8s with average mileages in good condition with no obvious faults. 3.0-litre models with average to above average mileages, may need a bit of work. All models, especially the smaller engine cars with mega low mileages in showroom condition. These cars will be like brand new, just run in and make for wonderful buys, the best buys IMO. £7000-£10,000: Good choice of late and mega low-mile 2.8’s and all 3.0-litre models with low to average mileage in excellent condition. Z3 prices are slowly rising for good cars, so anyone with a 3.0 boasting extremely low miles in concours condition might be asking more than £10k, and to be honest they are worth the money, they are excellent performers that have really nicely trimmed interiors with plenty of standard kit.

Conclusion

The Z3 is a handsome, solidly built and well equipped sports roadster that offers wind in the hair motoring for little cost, there’s nothing like punting a small, soft top sportscar down a country lane in the height of summer. But we also love to use our Zed in the colder months. On dry, crisp days with the roof down, heater whacked up to max and a snazzy beanie hat in place there isn’t a better feeling; make sure you have a wind deflector fitted though, or you’ll end up with frostbite around your ears!

A hardtop is a good idea if you want to use your Z3 all year round. They aren’t cheap and are a desirable second hand purchase, so again do your homework, make sure all the hardtop seals are fine and ensure it comes with the fitting kit, which is another expense if it doesn’t. You also need to think about where you will store the hardtop if you are going to enjoy topless motoring in the summer. This requires consideration because a hardtop is a big old lump to store. Expect to pay £600+ for a decent hardtop, plus you’ll probably have to pay to have it painted if you aren’t lucky enough to find one in the body colour of your car...

Z3s are practical, cheap to service and run, most parts are reasonable plus there are plenty of pattern parts available, spare parts backup is second to none, and classic car insurance is crazily cheap – just over £100 for a 1.9 Z3!

Choose wisely, always choose the best you can afford, make sure it has been well looked after with service and parts invoices to prove, and make sure if you aren’t confident enough to look at/detect the odd problem areas the Z3 may have, then take someone with you who is vastly experienced and knows the cars intimately. If you don’t know anyone, it is worth paying a professional motor engineer or a renowned specialist like BMR, Munich Legends or Darren Wood BMW Specialists to help inspect the car for you. It may cost you in the short term, but think of the money they could save you long term, or worse still, if the car has been badly damaged or poorly repaired in the past. Unfortunately, the used car market is still full of sharks out there, so, caveat emptor!

*Rather frustratingly, UK sales of the Z3 Roadster didn’t start until 1997 **Only the M version of the Z3 Coupe was officially sold in the UK; 2.8 and 3.0-litre models were sold on the continent, mostly in the German market.