HOWLER December 2018
C o s ta R i c a L i f e s t y l e , T r av e l & A d v e n t u r e
magazine
since 1996
“We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.” - Winston Churchill
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EDITORIAL
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e are just coming out of Costa Rica’s green season, a nice experience of rain and beauty. The air is very fresh and there is some time to rest. Businesses prepare for the new season of adventure seekers arriving, some looking to relocate or invest. A big welcome to all the activity and vibrancy of life that kicks in with high season. As a community, we always want to help those seeking to have the best experience. Tourists often comment on the friendliness of each community. This country is a wonderful place to call home. Don’t hesitate to go out of your way to meet the locals. Take time to interact with them, embracing their traditions and culture. Holiday time in Costa Rica is a different experience for those from northern climates. The first thing you will possibly notice is the lack of snow and commercialism. Christmas here is a time for family
and children. Unlike in other places, it lacks the outer cloak of in-your-face “buy-buy-buy” advertising. The relatively subtle holiday celebration messages are a nice contrast. In the area, palm trees are decorated with lights. Some Santas wear swimsuits while others are dressed in traditional warm winter suits. I now prefer the surfing Santa. The San José area offers more of the traditional Christmas experience that you would expect. Like most places worldwide, this time of year is a time for family, friends and
It lacks the outer cloak of in-your-face “buy-buy-buy” advertising. always, children, to get together and enjoy the season, no matter where you are. After moving to Costa Rica from Colorado and being here for several Christmases, I still find it hard to settle in to the holiday happenings of a beach and warm climate. But I’ve learned to enjoy the time. I still miss the smells and tastes from back home, but I don’t miss shoveling snow. All of Costa Rica is in the
world’s sight as an attractive place to visit or live. Interest has increased among people looking to relocate or invest here. Tamarindo and surrounding areas have undergone significant growth over the past year. Notably, this has occurred in and around Flamingo, where we will soon be welcoming the long-awaited new marina. All of this growth means we need to make a conscious effort to make our communities marquee places. Many groups are patrolling and picking up trash to keep our areas nice. Many are working with animal rescue initiatives to raise awareness among pet owners and the public of the need for love and responsible care. Action is also being taken to clean up illegally planted signs on public roads … visual noise that distracts from the surrounding beauty. In my limited time here, I have seen many things change and grow. As guests from all over the world, whether expats calling Costa Rica home or just visiting, we have a duty to better our communities through positive impacts. Don’t leave your footprint anywhere in this gem of the world.
John B. Quam
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HOWLER T r o o p
December 2018 Vol. 23 No. 11 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam
WRITERS Ana Patricia Pacheco. Center for Research and Conservation of Cultural Heritage. Ministry of Culture, Youth and Sports. Anginette Arroyo Arias. Certified in Floral Therapy, Reiki, Glyergic Reprogramming and Moon Mother. Wellness teacher at La Paz Community School. 8444-6931. abrazonaturalcr@gmail.com Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo. Fabricio Riggoni. Investment Consultant at NATIVU. 8301-0663. fabricio@nativu.com Gilberth Cavallini. Veterinary Doctor, owner Cavallini Veterinary Services, Villarreal (MegaSuper Plaza). tamarindovet@gmail.com
Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group. Sylvia Barreto Benites. Owner of Spanish for Expats, a tutoring and translation service. spanishforexpats23@gmail.com Tatiana Vandruff. Principal LEED GA at Grupo Pacifico Architects and Builders, sustainable design and construction for over 30 years. www.grupopaciticocr.com or tvandruff@grupopacificocr.com Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com
Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com
Valerie Veer. Co-owner of V3 Reptiles, with enthusiasm for herpetoculture and nature in general, paired with long-time interest in photography.
Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories. crjennparker@gmail.com
PHOTOGRAPHY
John Brockmeier. Writer and activist inspired by diverse interests and international life experiences.
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Johnny Lahoud. Owner/broker of Pura Vida Realty, Playa Grande. Lover of Costa Rica. pvrealty@gmail.com Laura Galvin. Founder of Nomad Design House. info@nomaddesignhouse.com 6282-6635. Marian Paniagua. Certified nurse and yoga Instructor, and local artisan, born and raised in Guanacaste. 8914-0199. marianpaniagua@gmail.com Mónica Barrios Jerez. Mother, artist, student, conservationist and activist of nature and Costa Rican values and customs. monicabjerez@gmail.com Nicole Rangel. Managing Editor of Howler and freelance writer and editor. Making memories forever with her family. nicole.rangel@gmail.com Roberto Guzman Fernandez. Founder of Chepe Cletas. 8849-8316. info@chepecletas.com
Albaro Arrollo & David Vega. Photographers for Diego Fournier Spotlight article. Carla Rowling. Volunteer photographer for CEPIA, surf photographer and part-time resident of Costa Rica. Gilberto Luna. Photographer and member of the PR department of the Municipality of San José. Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile, based in Jacó beach. Specializes in outdoor and studio photography. 88366475. jorgerussellphotographer@gmail.com José Gerardo Suárez Monge. Professional photographer, graphic designer and author of seven Costa Rican historical photo books. 7062-3086 or 8794-7679. Lois Solano. Surfing Nation Magazine. Marcel Freitez. Venezuelan-born nature and surfing photographer in Costa Rica since 2014. shakamediainfo@gmail.com Toh Gouttennoire. Professional photographer and owner of BiDrop Images, offering photo and video services. toh@bidrop.com
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BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda M A N A G I N G PA R T N E R S John B. Quam Martin Svoboda O p e r at i o n s Marynes F. Chops E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Nicole Rangel - Managing Editor Debbie Bride - Copy Editor Marian Paniagua - Creative Director of Pura Vida and ACE departments Graphic Design Team Martin Svoboda - Art Director Adriana Zerpa - Layout Designer M. Alauddin - Print Specialist Cover Designs Howler Cover - Adriana Zerpa ACE Cover - The Chops Graphic Design C o n ta c t
John Quam: headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda: martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Howler Magazine Costa Rica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. Copyright © 2018 by The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.
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HOWLER
CO N T E N T S 2 Up Front 2 - Editorial 4 - Howler Troop 8 - Community Services 10 - Cover Story: Giving Back This Holiday Season 14 - Businesses Giving Back to the Community
Life is About What You Give Cover Story
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16 Travel, Adventure & Surfing CR 16 - Featured Adventure: Snorkeling and Self-Discovery 18 - Off the Beaten Path: La Cangreja National Park
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20 - Cool Places: Coffee and Chocolate, Don Juan Tours 22 - Creature Feature: The Motmots of Costa Rica 24 - Surfing CR: Tide, Sun & Moon Chart 26 - Surf Spot: Puerto Caldera 28 - Feature: Adaptive Surfing 30 - Surf Profile: Alvaro Bayona 32 - Surf Profile: John Barrantes
CARIBBEAN SKORKELING
34 Pura Vida / Lifestyle
Featured Adventure
Puerto Caldera Surf Spot
34 - Feature Article: Flower Power - Natural Healing
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36 - Wellness: Mindfulness - Equanimity 38 - Fashion Flash: Style Tips for the Holidays 40 - Spanish: Getting Through the Spanish Blues 41 - Simply Spanish: Useful Holiday Words 42 - Animal Life: A Dog's Survival of Cancer
46 CR Biz 46 - Feature: Now & Then - Mar Vista Area is Changing 48 - Doing Business Right: Pro Tips, Part 2 of 3 50 - Building CR: The Permit Process Step by Step 52 - Investment Chat with Nativu: Flipping Properties
THEN AND NOW CR Biz Feature
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54 - FAQs: Successfully Flipping Properties in CR 54- Simply Spanish: Real Estate Terms 56 - Legal Ease: Yearly Taxes Due
58 Directories Flip Mini-Mags – ACE and Dining Guide
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RESORT LIFESTYLE WITH COSTA RICAN INGREDIENTS #s earchf indh owl
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COMMUNITY SERVICES
FIRE UNIT
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EMBASSY CONTACT INFO UNITED STATES +506 2519-2000 CANADA +506 2242-4000 EUROPEAN UNION (EU) DELEGATION +506 2283-2959
POLICE & FIRST RESPONDERS
TOURIST POLICE
FLAMINGO +506 2654-5086 VILLARREAL +506 2244-6173 PLAYAS DEL COCO +506 2670-0258 SANTA CRUZ +506 2680-0136 LIBERIA +506 2665-0609 LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS +506 2479-9689 NUEVO ARENAL +506 4001-6911
TILARAN +506 2695-5001
FIRE UNIT 1118 FILADELFIA +506 2688-8733 HUACAS FIRE STATION +506 2201-9079
AMBULANCE, HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS EMERGENCIAS 2000 +506 8930-2000 LIBERIA AMBULANCE
911
SAN JOSE AMBULANCE
911
TAMARINDO, FLAMINGO, POTRERO AMBULANCE
911
CARTAGENA RED CROSS AMBULANCE
911
POISON CENTER
+506 2223-1028
LIBERIA HOSPITAL
+506 2666-2300
CRUZ ROJA LIBERIA
911
HOSPITAL SAN RAFAEL +506 2666-1717 ARCANGEL (PRIVATE) LIBERIA NICOYA HOSPITAL +506 2685-8400 SAN JOSE HOSPITAL +506 2257-7922 PLAYAS DEL COCO CLINIC +506 8808-8111 LIBERIA CLINIC +506 2665-3038 SANTA CRUZ CLINIC +506 2680-2222 HUACAS CLINIC +506 2653-9911
ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TAMARINDO | Waves of Sobriety Mon / Thur • 5:30 pm | Wed / Sat • 10:30 am Behind the Tamarindo circle, through Pedro´s Surf Shop Ellen 2653-0897 / 8484-1360 ellenzoe@aol.com Suzanne 8507-5407 smchannell@hotmail.com VILLARREAL (Español) |Vida Real Jose Chops 8720-1984
(CONCHAL) FLAMINGO / POTRERO | Beach Front Serenity Group SANTA CRUZ +506 2680-0090 Tue / Fri • 5:30 pm, Upstairs Costa Rica Saling Center OIJ CONFIDENTIAL +800 800-0645 Craig 8699-0254 LIBERIA +506 2690-0128 PLAYAS DEL COCO +506 2690-0129 Monday / Wednesday / Friday • 6:00pm SANTA CRUZ +506 2681-4000 Sardinal Beach LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS +506 2479-1553 Centro Plaza Sardinal(50 mts east from police), store N. 6. TILARAN +506 2695-8475 Max 8917-2222 or John 2672-1163 SAN JOSE +506 2295-3851
ACCIDENT REPORT & VEHICLE ASSISTANCE 800-800-8001 HIGHWAY PATROL 1117 8
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If you have updated or additional information for useful numbers, please contact editor@howlermag.com or +506 4701-5942 howlermag.com
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HOLIDAY SPECIAL GIVE BACK
COVER STORY
Holiday Giving Brings Joy, Hope and Opportunity by Howler and CEPIA Staff
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EPIA (Culture, Education and Psychology for Infants and Adolescents) is a Costa Rican based non-profit and nongovernmental organization that seeks to improve the quality of life for children, teenagers and their families from disadvantaged backgrounds. As its name suggests, CEPIA promotes cultural development, educational and market opportunities, physical and mental health, social cohesion and participation. Initiatives include after-school programs, psychological help, educational projects for high-risk youth and professional training. In addition, CEPIA has a proud tradition of organizing specific annual events designed to
bring the community together and give back to children in need. “Our goal is to impact the community in a positive way,” says Laetitia Deweer, CEPIA founder and Vice President, “We strive to do that by any means possible. With your help, we are one step closer.” In addition to monetary donations, Deweer says, contributing time and enthusiasm is another way for people to get involved. “We would love to have bilingual volunteers for any event they feel passionate about helping and supporting.” The following events are scheduled in the near future, offering a variety of occasions and ways for anyone wanting to participate or contribute.
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nspired by what Winston Churchill and others have said about the measure of our lives being revealed in what we give, not what we receive, Howler is using our platform this holiday season to promote giving back to our community. We are choosing to shine light on CEPIA and all the incredible work it does. We know there are hundreds more organizations, large and small, helping children, families, neighborhoods and entire communities in need throughout Costa Rica. We encourage you to think of a cause dear to your heart, be it CEPIA or another worthy organization. Please consider the opportunities such groups offer for you to give back, be it in the form of donations or volunteering. The holidays are not the only time we should contemplate this, but it’s always a good time to do so. Acachete, Happy Holidays and wishing you and your family all the best in the New Year!
Howler Staff
DONATE A GIFT FOR A CEPIA CHILD Brighten a child’s Christmas with your gift at one of these Guanacaste locations: Businesses: Marie’s, Lola’s La Baula, Nimbu Casa Vida Point Break Surf Shop Langosta Beach Club
Pangas Beach Club Café del Pueblo Sage Art Studio CR Sailing Center Page Turner Books Pura Vida Ride
Casa Chameleon Pots and Bowls Schools: Educarte, CRIA, La Paz, Waldorf Tide Academy
To learn more about CEPIA and ways you can help this amazing organization give back to the community — including online donations — www.cepiacostarica.org or email cepiacostarica@gmail.com.
Photos: Carla Rowlings
Christmas Party and Gift Drive
The 12th Annual CEPIA Christmas Party takes place on December 18, 2018. A highlight will be the provision of gifts to approximately 600 children living in extreme poverty in the Guanacaste area. There are two ways to help make this happen before the December 9 donation deadline: • Trees have been set up at the vendor locations listed in the red box to the right. They also provide names of children who you can sponsor. You can either buy a gift on their wish list or donate money to do so ($30 minimum, please). • Participate in Karma Yoga and Sports Classes at Casa Chameleon and MDS Dance Studio, where all proceeds will be donated to the CEPIA Christmas Party. If you have any questions about the CEPIA Christmas Party or how you can help, please contact sibley.zepeda@lapazschool.org. #s earchf indh owl
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“Our goal is to impact the community in a positive way. With your help, we are one step closer.� School Supply Drive
Another event CEPIA is proud to be holding for the 12th year is its annual School Supply Drive. Monetary donations are needed to provide backpacks, school supplies, uniforms and shoes to approximately 700 underprivileged children for the new school year in February 2019.
Kids Camp and Clean-Ups
In addition, CEPIA is organizing a kids camp program in Huacas, January 22 to 25, and several beach clean-ups January 28 to 31. Volunteers are needed to help in various ways.
Photos: Carla Rowlings
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Teaming Up to Make a Difference
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or nearly two decades CEPIA has gone about doing good works in the community quietly and modestly and it could never have found a more exuberant local celebrity spokesperson than Robert August. Nor is anyone better qualified than the Tamarindo surfing legend to speak about CEPIA’s grassroots evolution. In Howler’s April 2018 issue, August recounted the intertwined stories of the organization’s genesis and the annual fundraiser he created to support its efforts. It was my pleasure and privilege once again to host the annual Robert August Surf & Turf event, a two-day golf and surf competition supporting the CEPIA Association. The outstanding efforts of this organization have been benefiting underprivileged children in Guanacaste for 18 years. As some may know, CEPIA was created by a lovely woman named Laetitia, who came to Costa Rica from Belgium many years ago. After falling in love with Costa Rica, Laetitia (like many of us) decided to live here permanently. Around the same time, I had become settled down here
surfing and doing work with the community, including hosting several Surf & Turf events on a small level. One day, Laetitia approached me and explained her passion for giving back to the community, and we teamed up. Her idea was to reinvest the profits from Surf & Turf into a small community center in Huacas, about 10 minutes from Tamarindo. I thought, great! This will be a nice little place with some palapas and the local families will be happy. But it was just the start. It has been just amazing to see the evolution of CEPIA and how it has become such a positive element of our community. What Laetitia initiated in Huacas became a huge success. CEPIA eventually developed and built a top-of-the-line learning and training facility incorporating about 40 computers, provides English classes for kids and adults, and free daycare. There is an industrial kitchen on site where adults can become certified to work in a restaurant. CEPIA also purchased a couple of vans to pick up kids from the community and bring them to the center.
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Employee Volunteer Programs HOLIDAY SPECIAL GIVE BACK
Businesses Giving Back to the Community by Nicole Rangel
Reserva Conchal is sponsoring this article in an effort to motivate other companies to help make our community better.
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osta Rica is known as a proud country that believes in its people and its land. Maintaining a sustainable business model that values pride can be advantageous for everyone involved. A sustainable business model focuses on social, environmental and financial elements to support continued growth. Promoting volunteerism within your organization is one way to attain this winwin situation. Volunteering is a way of life for Reserva Conchal’s employees and residents through the Elegí Ayudar program. Adriana Porras, Manager of Community Relations, plans a minimum of five volunteer programs each month that support different social and environmental needs in the Guanacaste area. She also plans two annual large volunteer projects open to the community. The Elegí Ayudar program, formalized by Reserva Conchal’s parent company Florida Ice and Farm Company S.A. (FIFCO), pays for each employee to volunteer a minimum of 16 hours over two or more days. A cornerstone of FIFCO’s success is its commitment to social and sustainable practices. That is why the company has committed to reaching over one million volunteer hours by 2020. The value of the Elegi Ayudar program is in the results. Last year, Reserva Conchal volunteers planted more than 1,400 native trees at Las Baulas National Marine Park. They also collected over 357 tons of trash that included waste products in the Brasilito area such as tires, boxes, refrigerators,
which become breeding grounds for denguecarrying mosquitoes. Other social initiatives have included neighborhood education walks/talks focusing on community health issues, volunteering at food banks and giving facelifts to schools, community centers and other buildings needing paint and small repairs. “I chose to help because it creates a positive impact on the community and teaches us to value our environment,” says Antonio Lopez Martinez, a seven-year veteran at Reserva Conchal. “I want to raise awareness about the duty we have to create a better place for our children,” he continues. Any business can adopt simple and easy sustainable business model practices to create a positive community imprint like Reserva Conchal. By creating a positive social and environmental imprint, a company’s financial stability can be achieved. When you support the things around you, from people to the environment, you are supporting all who are involved in your business, from your employees to your customers to the community. Offering the opportunity to employees and clients to volunteer is one way any business can give back to the community. To learn more about Reserva Conchal’s Elegí Ayudar program, follow its Facebook page at Juntos Conchal. You can also email elegiayudar@reservaconchal.com for information or newsletter mailings.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
SNORKELING & by John Brockmeier
SELF-DISCOVERY
ON THE CARIBBEAN COAST
FEATURED ADVENTURE
“F Immersion in the colorful, tranquil world underwater is the perfect way to recharge and reconnect with yourself.
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inding myself again,” is what my friend Stephanie said about her snorkeling trip to the Caribbean. Stephanie is known to many in the Tamarindo area as the Asian girl with the husky named Niko. The recent loss of her beloved canine companion drove Stephanie to leave her home on a quest of healing and selfrediscovery. Those who understand the bond so many of us have with our dogs will get what it means to have a loss that deep. Stephanie’s escape from Tamarindo took her to the Caribbean side of Costa Rica near Limón for three weeks of grief therapy
that only the ocean could provide. After seeing some of the pictures Stephanie was sharing after her return, I wanted to showcase the beauty that exists beneath the surface on the Caribbean coast. She captured it so perfectly in her photos. There is such an indescribable sense of freedom walking from the shore into the vibrant blue Caribbean water. The reef from Playa Cocles to Playa Chiquita is very close to shore in a shallow spot. It harbors many caves and a bounty of fish, langostinos, octopus and small colorful fish hiding in the rocks within.
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Photos: Stephanie Kwong
Stephanie’s time was spent exploring under every rock, crevice and cave while catching fish and langostinos. Immersion in the colorful, tranquil world underwater is the perfect way to recharge and reconnect with yourself. There is very little sound to disturb or distract you, and the movement of the sea and its creatures is calming. It’s real freedom and serenity. Living in this amazing country, we need to get out and explore. I recommend that Costa Rica’s Caribbean area should be on everyone’s must-do list. It’s a trek from Tamarindo, for sure, but as you can see, well worth the excursion. The best times of year for snorkeling in the Caribbean are March/April and September/October. Rainy season does not occur there during those months, so the underwater clarity is best.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE The park provides access to Rio Negro where you can walk to swimming holes and waterfalls.
LA CANGREJA NATIONAL PARK OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Just a Short Drive from San José
by Tom Schultz
Perhaps the greatest reason to visit La Cangreja is for the serenity and solitude. 18
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osta Rica’s national park system, now consisting of 26 parks around the country, did not have a single site in the province of San José until 2001. That year, researchers discovered a new endemic species of tree in the myrtle family (similar trees include guava, clove and eucalyptus), now named plinia puriscalensis. This finding in the southern Puriscal region was the impetus for creating a new park covering more than 2,500 hectares of the existing protective zone around La Cangreja mountain. With the mountain sonamed by the natives due to its resemblance to a crouching crab, La Cangreja National Park was established in 2002 in the northwestern section of San José.
Why visit?
La Cangreja protects tropical forests with 44 species of native plants and many types of animals and amphibians. Notably, more than 300 bird species have been recorded, including an increasing number of scarlet macaws in the years since several were reintroduced to this area. But perhaps the greatest reason to visit La Cangreja is for the serenity and solitude.
Despite being closest to the Central Valley in distance, it is one of the least visited parks in the country. The trails are well kept and extensive, covering everything from a hike to the 1,300 meter summit of La Cangreja itself, to walks along the Rio Negro with natural swimming holes and waterfalls. The park is so rarely visited that the rangers sometimes offer guided walks as a reason to get out and roam around the trails themselves. Nearby are the towns of Mastatal and Zapaton. If you are interested in permaculture and sustainability, a day visit or even a multiday courses can be arranged with one of Costa Rica’s pioneers of eco-living at Rancho Mastatal: ranchomastatal.com. In fact, a second park entrance is right up the road from Rancho Mastatal. Your hosts there are also experts at vegetarian cooking and have produced a cookbook with many traditional recipes incorporating local ingredients. Up the road towards the indigenous village of Zapaton is La Iguana Chocolate, owned and operated by a family who has spent 30 years converting its property for organic farming and chocolate production. Visit www.laiguanachocolate.com
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COSTA RICA DINNER ADVENTURE Short Estuary Trip to Dinner at The Great Waltini’s in Bula Bula Hotel
When to visit
So why does La Cangreja have so few visitors? The main reason is that it is difficult to get there during many times of the year. The road from Santiago de Puriscal is mostly unpaved, and prone to landslides and blockages during rainy season. Sometimes it is best to drive to the park coming inland from Parrita. Going to and from the park takes you back in time, as the surrounding regions are some of the most underdeveloped in San José
province. From November to March, and even June and July, the scenery can be extremely beautiful. Crystal clear water to swim in, along with peace and solitude, are yours to enjoy just a couple hours from San José. So if you want to see a part of Costa Rica off the normal tourist path, learn about permaculture and sustainability, eat some organic chocolate, or just walk, birdwatch or take pictures in an unspoiled, uncluttered area, take a trip to La Cangreja National Park.
View crocodiles, birds, monkeys and more Tamarindo to Palm Beach Estates via boat Enjoy a delightful dinner Return via boat to Tamarindo SEE DINING GUIDE AD PAGE 83
Photos: Tom Schultz
Taxi is complimentary with dinner reservations Three Pick up times at Tamarindo Estuary: 5, 5:30, and 6pm
Reserve boat taxi before 2pm 2653-0975
Bird watching is one of the many activities at the park. La Cangrega mountain in the background
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Monday- Mexican Wednesday - Italian 5:30-8:30 Tel: 2653-0975 Email: frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE:
WHO CAN RESIST?
Don Juan Tours combo serves up the best of both by Valerie Veer
U
COOL PLACES
pon arriving in La tour segment, and the cocoa station Fortuna, the main town was first. We tried amazing hot near Arenal Volcano, cocoa with a little kick; the recipe my husband, Vern, and I was not stingy with the amount. began exploring the area for things After grinding our own cocoa, to do. I had seen a sign coming Vern was the group member who into town advertising coffee and stepped up to make a chocolate bar. chocolate tours. Well, who doesn’t He was able to add ingredients to love coffee...and chocolate? What a taste and roll it until the mixture GREAT combination! was melted all together. How It was cloudy and drizzling exquisite this was going to be with rain the day of our tour. The a cup of hot coffee! shuttle picked us up at our hotel The coffee tasting station and delivered us to the was every bit as Immersion in Don Juan Tours site, entertaining. We a coffee plantation were all more the colorful, about 10 minutes than ready to from La Fortuna town savor the warmth. tranquil world square. Fortunately, the The traditional underwater is walkways are all glass filtering method covered, making the demonstrated the perfect way was visit enjoyable despite using a chorreador the weather. Our guide, to recharge and — perfectly ground Gustavo Ramirez, led the beans poured way, chatting about his reconnect with through a coffee specialty in ornithology, yourself. sock hung on a the scientific study wooden stick, of birds, and the resulting in a strong, plantation’s history. smooth individual cup of coffee. The tour was very informative I was impressed most by with stations for each phase of the the staff‘s knowledge about the coffee-making process, from planting plantation and variety of flora the seeds to the final product. I didn’t and fauna. More deeply, I felt know there was so much to it! I had that Costa Rican people have a also been misinformed about the true sense of their surrounding amount of caffeine in various coffee environment and the balance of and tea drinks. everything within. They strive We saw many other naturally to embrace tourism, equipping occurring plants, animals and themselves with information and insects around the farm, not skills that lend well to educating directly involved with coffee but tourists about everything that all part of the ecosystem. Gustavo makes Costa Rica so special. A provided detailed answers to all of tour to most chocolate or coffee our questions. plantations or farms is sure to Of course, we were all anxious provide a memorable experience. to get to the tasting part of each
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Creatures of the Night
O
ur coffee and chocolate tour guide, Gustavo Ramirez, could not help but pick up on the interest we were showing in the Don Juan plantation’s wildlife inhabitants. So he offered up a night excursion with his coworker Brandon Cruz, and we eagerly accepted. Like my husband, Vern, Brandon is a specialist in herpetology (reptiles and amphibians). We rightly anticipated this would be right up Vern’s alley and then some, given the level of professionalism and expertise Brandon showed us on this exclusive night adventure. It was cool and rainy when he picked us up at our hotel. We were armed with rain gear and cameras in hopes of getting a few good shots of some animals. It continued to pour rain throughout the tour, very hard at times and only letting up for a few brief spells. At first walking along the plantation’s covered paths, chatting and getting to know one another, it then became apparent we were not going to see what we came for by staying sheltered. So we shielded our cell phones and cameras under rain ponchos and ventured out into the rainy landscape, listening to the symphony of nocturnal creatures living in the rainforest. Brandon spotted several toads and frogs for us to photograph, getting us on point as we continued in the rain. Then he made some calls, stopped, listened and called again … each time telling us which animal he was trying to locate. At times, we were literally up to our knees in mud trudging across the plantation and along the river banks. Brandon showed tremendous stealth in leading us to some rare and amazing animals to photograph. Our understanding was that this tour is available on request. If you’re interested in critters that come alive at night and not afraid of the dark (or rain), we highly recommend it.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
The Motmots
of Costa Rica
CREATURE FEATURE
Commonly odd-looking
Rufous motmot
Blue crowned motmot
by Tom Schultz
M
otmots are proof that common side is the turquoise-browed motmot, seen birds are not necessarily common mainly in the Guanacaste drier forests, mostly in looking. A stunning family of birds the Nicoya Peninsula south to about Orotina. — one or more of the six motmot types — are The Caribbean and north areas of Costa Rica readily found in and along the edges of forests are habitats to the rufous motmot — the largest throughout Costa Rica. Both motmot and bobo member of the species — and the broad-billed. (the name Costa Ricans use) are onomatopoeia, The last two types of motmots in Costa Rica meaning their name sounds like the call they are the hardest to see, found only in small areas make: “mot-mot” or “bo-bo.” in the Guanacaste mountains around Rincon The most recognizable feature of motmots de la Vieja. Tody motmots are only about six are their “racket” tails, resembling a badminton inches tall and lack the racket tail. (“Tody” is or tennis racket. It was once old English for “small” … an example of believed that these birds obscure English names for birds that The most plucked their tail feathers off are difficult to understand.) Keel-billed themselves, but recent studies motmots are very difficult to see due to recognizable show otherwise: tail feathers the small population and habitat. feature of are present at birth but the Motmots are an important part of shafts weaken from wear and indigenous cultures in Latin America. motmots preening, eventually falling out For example, the ancient city of Copal are their naturally. The purpose of the in Honduras is named after the motmot. ‘racket’ tails. racket formation is not totally Perhaps my favorite story is this Costa understood, but it is believed Rican Bribri legend of the motmot. When that motmots wag their tails in the God Sibú (often represented as a a pendulum fashion, back and forth, as a lure. king vulture) asked all the creatures to help him Would-be predators like larger invertebrates create the world, they all willingly helped with and small lizards are attracted to the rackets and one exception. The lazy motmot dug a hole in attack, only to end up as a meal themselves. The the ground and hid from work, but unfortunately other strange aspect of motmot behavior is that without realizing he left his tail sticking out of they nest in the ground, digging little caves in the the hole. When the other hardworking creatures side of hills to hatch and raise their young. saw this, they became angry and plucked off all The most common motmot variety is now but the tip of the motmot’s tail. When the world called the lesson’s motmot, renamed recently was complete, the motmot started boasting from the far more descriptive blue-crowned. It about how much work he did. But the God Sibú is found along the entire west side of Costa Rica saw the motmot’s tail and guessed the truth. He and into the Central Valley, even seen sitting on cursed the motmot and banished him to live in a power lines. Also found on the country’s Pacific hole in the ground.
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Turquoise-browed motmot
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23
HOWLER
SURFING
MOON PHASES
December 7 New Moon
COSTA RICA
December15 1st Quarter
December 22 Full Moon
December 29 3rd Quarter
SUNRISE DECEMBER 1 5:40 AM DECEMBER 31 5:55 AM
Team Costa Rica visited Surf City USA World Junior Championship Surfer: Malakai Martinez Photo: Ben Reed, courtesy of Costa Rica Surf Federation
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SUNSET DECEMBER 1 5:15 PM DECEMBER 31 5:29 PM
TIDE CHART DAY
HIGH TIDES
DECEMBER 01 - DECEMBER 31, 2018
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
1 Sat
3:02am 1.17 '
9:20am 8.02 '
3:27pm 0.96 '
9:57pm 8.56 '
2 Sun
4:14am 1.19 '
10:28am 7.89 '
4:33pm 1.09 '
11:01pm 8.68 '
3 Mon
5:20am 1.02 '
11:34am 7.96 '
5:37pm 1.06 '
4 Tues
12:01am 8.90 '
6:22am 0.73 '
12:34pm 8.15 '
6:35pm 0.94 '
5 Wed
12:55am 9.13 '
7:14am 0.43 '
1:26pm 8.38 '
7:27pm 0.81 '
6 Thurs
1:43am 9.31 '
8:02am 0.18 '
2:14pm 8.58 '
8:13pm 0.72 '
7 Fri
2:29am 9.40 '
8:46am 0.02 '
3:00pm 8.71 '
8:57pm 0.70 '
8 Sat
3:11am 9.39 '
9:26am -0.04 '
3:42pm 8.75 '
9:37pm 0.75 '
9 Sun
3:51am 9.27 '
10:06am 0.00 '
4:22pm 8.71 '
10:19pm 0.88 '
10 Mon
4:31am 9.05 '
10:44am 0.15 '
5:02pm 8.58 '
10:59pm 1.09 '
11 Tues
5:11am 8.75 '
11:22am 0.39 '
5:44pm 8.38 '
11:39pm 1.34 '
12 Wed
5:51am 8.37 '
12:02pm 0.70 '
6:26pm 8.14 '
13 Thurs
12:23am 1.62 '
6:35am 7.96 '
12:44pm 1.05 '
7:10pm 7.90 '
14 Fri
1:09am 1.88 '
7:21am 7.55 '
1:26pm 1.40 '
7:56pm 7.70 '
15 Sat
1:57am 2.08 '
8:11am 7.20 '
2:14pm 1.71 '
8:46pm 7.58 '
16 Sun
2:51am 2.17 '
9:07am 6.97 '
3:06pm 1.92 '
9:40pm 7.60 '
17 Mon
3:49am 2.10 '
10:05am 6.91 '
4:00pm 1.98 '
10:32pm 7.77 '
18 Tues
4:47am 1.85 '
11:03am 7.04 '
4:56pm 1.86 '
11:26pm 8.08 '
19 Wed
5:43am 1.44 '
11:59am 7.35 '
5:50pm 1.59 '
SURF
20 Thurs
12:16am 8.51 '
6:35am 0.93 '
12:49pm 7.79 '
6:42pm 1.20 '
21 Fri
1:06am 9.00 '
7:23am 0.37 '
1:39pm 8.30 '
7:34pm 0.75 '
22 Sat
1:54am 9.47 '
8:11am -0.16 '
2:27pm 8.81 '
8:24pm 0.32 '
23 Sun
2:42am 9.85 '
8:57am -0.60 '
3:15pm 9.26 '
9:12pm -0.03 '
24 Mon
3:30am 10.09 '
9:45am -0.89 '
4:03pm 9.59 '
10:02pm -0.24 '
25 Tues
4:18am 10.14 ' 10:33am -0.99 '
4:51pm 9.77 '
10:54pm -0.28 '
26 Wed
5:08am 9.99 '
11:21am -0.89 '
5:41pm 9.77 '
11:46pm -0.14 '
27 Thurs
6:00am 9.65 '
12:11pm -0.60 '
6:35pm 9.61 '
28 Fri
12:40am 0.14 '
6:54am 9.16 '
1:05pm -0.17 '
7:29pm 9.34 '
29 Sat
1:40am 0.50 '
7:54am 8.62 '
2:01pm 0.33 '
8:29pm 9.03 '
30 Sun
2:42am 0.84 '
8:56am 8.13 '
3:01pm 0.81 '
9:31pm 8.76 '
31 Mon
3:48am 1.09 '
10:02am 7.77 '
4:05pm 1.19 '
10:35pm 8.59 '
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25
SURFING COSTA RICA
SURF SPOT
PUERTO CALDERA by Jenn Parker
It’s a fascinating place to spend an afternoon observing life as it unfolds for the coastal locals.
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P
uerto Caldera is one of the most valuable port cities in Costa Rica. International cruises and industrial ships regularly dock and depart from this booming port. Centrally located on Costa Rica’s alluring Pacific coast, it’s a good halfway point between some of the central Pacific’s most sought-after attractions. It’s a fascinating place to spend an afternoon observing life as it unfolds for the coastal locals. Caldera is also host to a rather consistent and hackable jetty break.
How to Get There
Caldera is a one hour and 18-minute drive from San José or 54 minutes north from Jacó. From Liberia, it takes two hours driving south along the Autopista José María Castro Madriz. Any trip from Guanacaste down to Jacó, Manuel Antonio, Uvita, or the Osa
Peninsula runs parallel to the coast and past this famed surf spot.
Where to Surf
The wave in Caldera breaks off of the rock jetties, which you can’t miss as you drive south through Caldera. While this spot breaks right and left, the left is typically significantly better. The wave consistently breaks with south-southwest ground swells and likes an offshore easterly wind. It is best to surf here at a lower tide. During the week, there is likely to be few, if any, other surfers. But on the weekend, be prepared for crowds and a heavy population of bodyboarders when a good swell is present. The water here is also quite polluted and full of currents, so be careful when out in the surf.
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Local Companies
Caldera is a long town that runs parallel to the ocean. There are multiple restaurants, bars, markets and roadside stands where you can stop and enjoy traditional Costa Rican cuisine. Nemaclys is a famous spot in Caldera. Not only is it a restaurant, but an aweinspiring panoramic lookout point and site of the best paragliding operation in Costa Rica. While Caldera is close to Carara National Park, Jacó, Los Sueños and Isla Tortuga, the town itself has far more of a local vibe than a touristy one. On weekends, Costa Rican families flock to the shores to bask in the sun and enjoy treats and drinks sold alongside the beach. Caldera is famous for its Churchills, the official snack of Puntarenas. Along the beach walkway, you will see multiple small stands set up selling this sweet treat consisting of ice, powdered milk, condensed milk and cola-flavored syrup, plus sliced apples, strawberries, grapes and pineapple. Don’t knock it until you try it! Also along the causeway, you can enjoy a traditional vigorón — a plate of yucca, fried pork rinds, and cabbage salad. Both will surely recharge you for another surf session! The weekend scene down here is intriguing and if the surf is good, Caldera is a fantastic place to spend the entire day!
Photographer: Marcel Freitez Company: Shaka Media About: Venezuelan-born Marcel has been in Costa Rica since 2010. Nature and surfing are his primary interests. Northern Guanacaste. Office at Shaka Foods, road to Tamarindo 8330 5436 shakamediainfo@gmail.com @shakamedia @Shakamedia #s earchf indh owl
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27
SURFING COSTA RICA
Sean Reyngoudt, from Switzerland, participated in the first Adapted Surf tournament held in Costa Rica, May 2018.
ADAPTIVE SURFING
FEATURE ARTICLE
Costa Rica’s home team is set to lead the world in La Jolla by Ellen Zoe Golden
“We adapt the surfing, not the person.”
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F
rom the start, the sport of surfing has been inclusive. Anybody with a desire to grab a board and ride a wave could do it. These days, in Costa Rica, there’s a new segment of athletes going for the stoke; men and women with disabilities — physical or emotional — have overcome their limitations and are surfing. Five years ago, inspired by a dear friend that was disabled in a car accident, Jacó pastor and surf coach Gustavo Corrales organized the Adaptive Surf Association of Costa Rica. He invited people with developmental brain issues, amputees and sensorial challenges to be instructed in the sport. In addition, these surfers were given the opportunity to compete on the national Adaptive Surf team, facing others like them at International Surfing Association (ISA) games outside the country. “They are called ‘Sons of the Impossible,’” said Corrales of his athletes. “Our association is not just for the competing, it’s also a fun way to engage in therapy. We adapt the surfing, not the person.” The first “team” was simply Corrales’ friend Ismael Araya, himself left in a wheelchair after an accident. In 2015, the ISA created the first World Adaptive Surfing Championship.With the help of the Costa Rica Federation of Surf, Araya went to La Jolla, California with his specially crafted surfboard. Corrales said, “I felt grateful to God and
committed to give shape to a phrase that Ismael Araya said during the tournament, which was ‘I hope to bring hope’.” Upon their return to Costa Rica, Corrales managed to form a team of five athletes including Araya. The others were Ronald Faerron, John Barrantes, Juan Manuel Camacho and Mathius Vanderhooght, a group in which he also trained in competitive surfing. “I met Ronald, who has an amputation in the left leg, in Manuel Antonio at a master tournament of the Costa Rica Federation of Surf,” Corrales recounted. “John, who has multiple injuries in the spine and legs, and I met in Puerto Carrillo, Hojancha, at the wedding of his cousin. I met Juan, a wheelchair user, in Jacó through Ismael, and Mathius, I had known him for a long time from a tournament at Playa Cedros, Montezuma.” That year, at the 2016 World Cup, again in La Jolla, Costa Rica’s national Adaptive Surfing team finished 8th out of 22 teams. Vanderhooght, who has a disease that diminishes the strength and mobility of his muscles, won a copper medal in Assisted Surfing, with a coach in the water and another near the shore. The following year, the first adaptive female surfer joined the national team. Natalia Vindas, surfing on her belly due to a spinal cord injury, brought home the bronze medal for finishing 3rd
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Photographer: Jorge A. Russell About: A native of Spain, Jorge has been an avid photographer since he was 14 years old. He has been making a living as a professional photographer in Costa Rica since 2004. Based in Jacó 8836-6475 jorgerussellphotographer@ gmail.com @fotografodeaccion
in the A4 category of the 2017 championships, again in La Jolla. The Costa Rican team, which now also included the first blind competitive surfer, Henry Martinez, placed 7th among the 28 participating countries. The Costa Rican Federation of Surf now has enough surfers to host a Circuito Nacional of Adaptive Surfing event on home soil. And, once again, they will send a team to La Jolla December 12 to 16 for the Stance ISA World Adaptive Championships. Corrales hopes the team will be in the top 3 ranking when all is said and done there. It should be noted that Corrales does all this work with the adapted surfers on his own time, without pay. “I have people with disabilities in my family, and to me they are just normal,” he said. “They inspire me, and this keeps me happy to help them enjoy their lives. They are happy. I want these surfers to be world champions, and I want to create a platform through the Adapted Surfing Association of Costa Rica to create future generations of high performance adapted trainers and surfers. I also want to create greater accessibility to beaches and provide surf therapy to many people. Everybody has a purpose in life, and this project is my purpose.”
Follow the Costa Rica Adaptive Surf Team at the Stance ISA World Adaptive Championships December 12-16, 2018 in La Jolla, California online at www.isasurf.org/events/isa-worldadaptive-surfing-championship/
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Coach Marcel Oliveira, current long board and paddle surfing national champion, assists Natalia Vindas , first female adapted surfer from Costa Rica.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29
SURFING COSTA RICA
ALVARO BAYONA by Howler Staff
SURF PROFILE
An Amazing Inspiration
A
lvaro Bayona is an elite athlete in many spheres of sports who continues defying limits to what adaptations are possible for people with paraplegia and other physical challenges. A copper medalist on Spain’s team in three Adapted Surf World Cup championships, he visited Costa Rica in September to speak about adapted stand up paddle (SUP) with surf instructors, SUP surfers and the general public. In 2010, Bayona was seriously injured in an accident caused by an avalanche while practicing snowboarding. Since then, his goal has been to persistently practice and compete in the same sports he pursued for so many years earlier, including skiing, surfing, kitesurfing, wakeboarding and paddle surfing. Both in Spain and internationally, Alvaro has been a renowned pioneer in adapted paddle surfing, notably starting a small manufacturing company for patented water sports chairs. Part of Bayona’s mission has been to share widely his own experience, both personal and in sports, with many other athletes going through similar situations. He has organized numerous talks and conferences in which audience members are encouraged to continue practicing the sports by learning adaptive techniques and fighting their fears.
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Álvaro also created the Alvin Bayona Foundation, aiming to expand the economic resources needed for developing the adaptation processes that each sport discipline demands. It’s also a resource for reference information about adapted sports and products he has designed and built for that purpose. Bayona’s desire is to make people aware of the many possibilities for practicing sports in circumstances they may not have imagined. Visit: www.alvinbayona.com www.facebook.com/alvin.bayona.7
Alvaro has been a renowned pioneer in adapted paddle surfing.
While visiting Costa Rica in September 2018, Alvaro spoke to groups of surfers and surf instructors, people with disabilities and the general public. He demonstrated how to use the special chair he created for installation on SUP boards.
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Photos: Jorge Russell
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31
SURFING COSTA RICA
John competing at the 2018 ISA World Adaptive Championships. Surf Photos: Lois Solano/Surfing Nation Magazine
Broken back doesn't stop
JOHN BARRANTES Not to Mention the Pins in his Foot
SURF PROFILE
by Ellen Zoe Golden
F
or John Barrantes, surfing literally After a week like this, he could stand on saved his life. Although he started his surfboard. surfing for fun when he was 13 “I had to do it, I belong in the sea,” he years old, in 2010, his ability to carry on explained. with the sport he loved was cut short by With improvement, it was only a a horrific traffic accident. The event was matter of time before Gustavo Corrales a lot more serious than just that — he recruited him to participate in the broke his back in three places and lost Integral National Circuit presented by important bones and tendons in his legs, the Costa Rica Federation of Surf. In including the loss of his right ankle. The 2018, after two years in this tournament injuries required many operations that for those with disabilities, Barrantes required he use a wheelchair for a year, competed in all three dates, reaching followed by crutches, a cane and a lot the winning podium in Manuel Antonio, of physical therapy. And an exceptional Jacó and Santa Teresa. At the end of faith helped him through this time as the season, he had the most points and well. hit the top of the rankings. As a result, “When I as in the hospital, I started he became the 2018 National Adaptive believing in God, and believed my faith Surfing champion. would let me walk “It feels good,” Barrantes once more,” Barrantes exclaimed. “The competition is ‘My hardest said. “My body was not against others; all of them supported using pins are winners and every athlete battle is against has their own story. For me, and plates, and my right foot required each championship is a fight my own mind against my own limitations, a prosthetic piece. Doctors said I would circumstances and against all and fears.’ never walk again.” those who thought I could not do But he was able to it. My hardest battle is against walk again. As a result, Barrantes started my own mind and fears.” thinking about how he could return Last year, the special athlete traveled to the water and surf. Around Costa with the Costa Rica National Adaptive Rica, a buzz was growing about various Surf team to La Jolla, California to disabled surfers who were adapting their compete in the World Championship. surfboards so they could ride waves. The team came in 7th place, even though For him, the process began when his the cold water added to Barrantes’ friends took him to the beach, carrying surfing challenges by freezing the pins him halfway down because there was and plates in his body. no proper access to the water for people As for 2018, he has been out of the with disabilities. Kicking in the water water again for three months due to a became additional therapy. complication in his right leg that resulted Barrantes tried to surf on mediumin his toe being amputated. sized waves, on a boogie board. This “It’s been really hard to recover small success encouraged him to move balance and train, and I have not been in on to the longboard his friends gifted the water yet,” Barrantes concluded. “But him. Ultimately, he adapted his condition I look forward to the day when I can surf and circumstance, using special water and compete once more.” shoes that reached up to his ankle, Given his faith, that day will supporting the foot’s prosthetic piece. certainly come.
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X-Rays of John's injury
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33
PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE
FLOWER POWER FEATURE ARTICLE
A gentle natural healing tool
by Anginette Arroyo Arias
The best results are achieved by consulting a duly certified floral therapist.
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D
r. Edward Bach, an English physician, came to revolutionize homeopathic healing practices during the 1930s while shifting the focus of his medical practice as a pathology specialist to more holistic approaches. Ultimately, Bach abandoned traditional medicine to devote the rest of his life and career investigating the natural healing properties of plants, specifically, flowers. His quest was for relatively gentle remedies to achieve "true healing" for illnesses he believed originate in the soul. According to Bach, people suffer physical pain and diseases of all kinds as an expression of something happening emotionally. He considered it an alarm to the body that we are experiencing little joy in living, inner dissatisfaction, an unresolved trauma or any number of diverse emotions that can constantly disturb us. Thus, he sought
answers through the wisdom and power of nature to help patients recover their inner harmony and suppress their unwanted ailments. What is commonly known today as “integral floral therapy” evolved from Bach’s discoveries and is becoming a worldwide practice. Proponents regard it as a valuable transformational tool that provides balance and harmony to our body, mind and spirit. More recent contributions have been added to Bach’s work, including the floral systems of Andreas Korte, California flowers and flower essences used by shamans.
To flourish
Although flower remedies are typically available in pharmacies and many other sources, do-it-yourself applications are not recommended as being appropriate or very useful.
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Cosmetic and General Dentistry
“Look deeply into nature and then you will understand everything better.” - Albert Einstein
your
smile ... the best Souvenir from
Costa Rica Implants Laser whitening Cosmetic Dentistry Veneers and more... The best results from integral floral therapy are achieved by consulting a duly certified floral therapist. This expert practitioner can be a guide and provide objective, timely support to the client’s personal healing process. During a consultation, you tell the floral therapist about your life experiences, illnesses and/or emotional issues suggesting possible imbalances, blockages or repressed feelings. In this way, the floral therapist can suggest an alternative, personalized and effective natural treatment. At the same time, patients obtain a comprehensive, affectionate, ethical and non-judgmental accompaniment to their
personal healing, its “bloom.” The therapist’s guiding role is to help patients achieve for themselves greater balance, health, well being, understanding and — above all — self-love for their body, mind and soul. Integral floral therapy and its remedies are an option for everyone, with no restrictions. As a natural remedy, there are no adverse side effects. Even pets at home can benefit from floral remedies. On the other hand, children under age 6 must be accompanied by a parent or caregiver with whom they have an emotional bond during a therapy consultation.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35
PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE
Equanimity The Sublime State by Marian Paniagua
In Buddhist literature, equanimity is sometimes described as a perspective shift.
I
WELLNESS MINDFULNESS
have been through many difficult situations in this life, from economic crisis to heartbreaks, family breakdowns and personal insecurities. But I always end up resolving every situation, placing myself back on firm ground and feeling joyful again. Nevertheless, I started feeling exhausted from transiting through stressful situations. This made me ask, why do I have to be anxious and stressed about a situation, when in the end everything turns out just fine? This is how I began to discover the wisdom of practicing equanimity through the ups and downs of my life, and I felt a huge sense of empowerment. Equanimity is defined as evenness of mind, especially under stress. Equanimity comes from the combination of “aequus” and “animus” (“soul” or “mind”) in the Latin phrase aequo animo, which means “with even mind”. In Buddhist literature, equanimity is sometimes described as a perspective shift or sense of detachment from the ongoing experience. This can cause a misunderstanding because the word “detachment” can imply “indifference,” whereas in this case detachment refers to the elimination of craving or clinging to what we desire. It is important to dive deep into the practice and meaning of equanimity, so you don’t confuse it with indifference as I did in the past.
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Through the beautiful path of life and the natural rising and falling of all kinds of experiences, I discovered a few mindful practices that helped start developing my existing power of equanimity. I would like to share them: • Use every challenge you encounter to train your mind to see the good in everything. This will stop the momentum of the problem and will direct you to peace. • When you face a so-called unwanted situation, ask yourself, what is this trying to teach me? When you direct your attention to the lesson and the gift contained inside the struggle, you will find a feeling of relief, space and lightness. • Do something that makes you happy. It can be something small like listening to a song or putting your feet in the sea. This will shift you from the frequency of anxiety to the frequency of joy. In this place, ideas and possible solutions will appear. • Write about the situation in a journal. Take the stress out of your mind and put it on paper. The practice of equanimity will bring a special quality of mind to bear upon your experiences. It will facilitate an attitude of non-resistance and receptiveness.
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EAT • SLEEP • SURF • STRETCH
The Yoga Shala at RipJack Inn
Classes Workshops Retreats
www.ripjackinn.com • (506) 2653-1636
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37
PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE by Patricia Sterman
Style Tips for Holiday Party
Season
Who, What, Wear
I
FASHIONFLASH
f you're heading to any holiday parties at the beach this month, you're probably searching for the perfect thing to wear. 1.
2.
3.
4. 5.
6.
7.
8.
Festive dresses are the best bet. White is the favorite party theme around the area, so be sure you have at least one white festive dress in your wardrobe. Lace is still on for this summer, giving you a romantic and feminine look. Talking about fabrics, my favorite is Italian soft silk. It is the best material for this weather and has a subtle shine that makes you glow around the party. Stripes are everywhere again, from palazzo pants to tailored dresses, in black and white, blue and white and many other combinations. For the surf fans, I recommend tie-dyed patterns in earth colors. If you want to be fashionable, try a shirtdress. These styles can range from casual denim to sophisticated white and blacks, taking you from day to evening chic in no time. Patterned dresses should have beachtheme imagery. From flamingos to pineapples, wear it with a summer signature. Another option that is mosquito-safe is to pair nice pants with a blouse. Again, fabrics and patterns are important to keep it festive; don’t play safe. Keep it simple and light, because the weather will probably be hot. Accessorize your outfit with nice jewelry and comfortable shoes.
If you need any type of advice or recommendation for a special event, contact me at fashionblogthehowler@gmail.com.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 39
PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE
Getting Through the Spanish Blues
by Sylvia Barreto Benites
Y
SPANISH
ou have tried it all but each time someone talks to you in Spanish, you … you blank. You can have a simple conversation but can’t seem to get to the next level. You want your words to flow and communicate but you just can’t seem to get there. Here are 10 tips to get past this slump. 1. Be nice to yourself. Stop telling yourself you can’t learn a new language, you’re too old or too dumb … or agreeing with that one person who told you that you can’t. 2. Don’t conjugate until it comes naturally. Don’t worry about speaking with conjugations until the word naturally pops into your head. Until then, learn subject pronouns, such as yo (I), tú (you), él (he) and ella (she), as well as time markers such as hoy (today) and ayer (yesterday) and use the infinitive form of the verb. 3. Say what you CAN say! Instead of trying to say something specific in Spanish, ask yourself, what CAN I say? When listening to someone, try to get the gist of what they are saying and then respond however you can. 4. Don’t just listen for words. Language is about way more than just words. Take in the whole picture; look at the face and the
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tone, and make lots of guesses. Become a detective in guessing what people are saying. 5. Train yourself to listen. Watching television can be great in this respect. You can watch quite a few Spanish language TV shows on Netflix and put in Spanish subtitles. Your goal is to get as much information as you can from the context and tone.
Learning Spanish is stepping through the looking glass from being a tourist to being a local. 6. Read, read, read. Try to read something in Spanish each day. You can read the national or any number of local newspapers. There are tons of sites online that offer interesting subject matter; one of my favorites is www.planetacurioso.com. 7. Sing your way to no accent. Singing is an incredible way to train your ear to intonate the language. Pick your favorite genres of music and learn the Spanish versions. Look them up, find their lyrics (letra) and sing along.
8. Talk to everyone. Ticos are kind and friendly people. They appreciate you trying to speak Spanish and are often happy to help you work through issues. When you engage in Spanish, you are showing respect for their culture and community, and your love for Costa Rica. 9. People love your accent. Humans are biologically wired to be attracted to accents. When you think you are butchering the language, the listener is having a dopamine rush of pleasure. 10. Do something every day. Spend at least 20 minutes to an hour engaging in Spanish. Change it up, keep it interesting and if you are bored….do something else. Language learning should be fun and engaging; if not, you are doing it wrong. Learning Spanish is a lifelong process. There is no formula or method that works for everyone. The key is to keep going … keep calm and be nicer to yourself through the process. Your goal is never “understanding everything,” it’s about seeing how much you can understand today and then tomorrow and so on. Learning Spanish is stepping through the looking glass from being a tourist to being a local.
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SIMPLY SPANISH by Sylvia Barreto Benites and Spanish For Expats
Useful Holiday Words la fiesta Navideñas — the holidays ir de compras — to go shopping regalos — gifts papel de liar regalos — wrapping paper lazos — gift bows cinta engomada — tape bolsa de regalo — gift bag arbol de Navidad —Christmas tree adornos — decorations pesebre — nativity scene luces Navideñas — Christmas lights velas — candles colillas de gegalo – gift name tag COMEDA - Food tamal — corn paste with pork or chicken and veggies, wrapped in banana leaf. pavo — turkey rompope — eggnog galletas — cookies queque navideño — fruitcake arandano — cranberry pan de jengibre — gingerbread FECHAS IMPORTANTES — Important Dates Nochebuena — December 24 before midnight, traditionally the time for exchanging gifts and gathering with family for dinner.
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PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE
Photo courtesy of Cavallini Veterinary Hospital
Being fully recuperated at the end of his long hospital stay, Peque is enjoying life with his forever family in Playas del Coco. Photo: Laura Pizarro Garcis
Dog’s Will to Live Stronger Than Cancer ANIMAL LIFE
If they want to fight, let’s join their battle! By Dr. Gilberth Cavallini
After the final chemo treatment, the cancer was all gone.
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his story begins with a dog who was in pretty rough shape. He was brought to our clinic from Yo Sere Su Voz Guanacaste, a non-profit organization handling cases of atrisk stray animals or pets whose owners cannot afford veterinary costs. Our brown and white male patient weighed five kilograms and was in poor physical condition overall, the most obvious symptoms being bleeding from the mouth, mucous at his nose and dry cough. In fact, his homelessness was the outcome of people around him finding his appearance repulsive. Like all rescue cases, this little guy needed a complete deworming, medicated bath treatment for fleas and ticks and complete blood tests. Unlike most rescue animals, however, he tested negative for tick fever. We were also able to determine his anemia was due the external bleeding and parasite infestation. Once he seemed stronger, we decided to sedate and investigate deeper. It was then we discovered that a tumor on the roof of the dog’s mouth had spread to his nasal cavity, causing breathing difficulty, panting and local infection. Because he remained strong during this examination, we went ahead and took a sample from the mass for pathology testing and also performed neuter surgery. Both procedures were successful.
We were grateful to receive a donation covering the cost of biopsy and blood work, then a bit more help for other expenses. Meanwhile, our patient started trusting people again and showed other signs of feeling better, like wagging his tail and jumping. Two weeks later, we got back the pathology report: carcinoma, a malignant tumor that spreads fast. Chemotherapy was our next step, once a week for four weeks with daily monitoring of improvements. After the first chemo treatment, the mass was smaller and the dog was able to breathe better. With the second treatment, there was no more mucous and the oral mass was almost gone. Week three results were even better: no visible mass at the nose and the holes that had penetrated to the surface of his face started to close. He had also started gaining weight, and was more alert, active and playful. After the final chemo treatment, the cancer was all gone. Now comes the happy ending. After taking care of this guy for seven weeks, when it seemed like he had become part of our hospital team, it was time to find him a forever home. And we did! Little Peque, as he has been named, not only won his battle but now belongs to a loving family with two kids and another foster dog. I am happy to report he is enjoying the carefree beach bum life in Coco.
Help Stray and Wild Animals – Adopt • Donate • Volunteer
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45
CR Biz Mini-Mag
NOW&THEN by Laura Galvin
Recent aerial shot of tennis courts, yoga studio and restaurant in Mar Vista.
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laya Flamingo and the surrounding areas have been popular destinations for years, but many things have changed over time to make one of its neighborhoods, Mar Vista, what it is today. For decades, Costa Rica had been a coveted locale for surfers, but with the release of “Endless Summer II” in the 1990s, which featured well-known Tamarindo resident Robert August surfing nearby Witch’s Rock, this area was put on the map for wave seekers. Surfers from around the world now visit Roca Bruja (the Spanish name for Witch’s Rock) to catch some of the best waves in the country. From Playa Flamingo, just a short 25 minute drive, this unique surf spot named for the witch-like howling wind around the gigantic rock is a legendary destination.
Years ago, getting to the coast was not an easy feat. Though there was once a short airstrip right in Playa Flamingo for private charter access, Liberia’s commercial airport was small and not commonly used until the mid 1990s. Today Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport is the sixth busiest in Central America, with over one million passengers flying in and out annually. The drive from Liberia used to include plenty of bumpy dirt stretches and an occasional river crossing, until recent paving and bridge building. Mar Vista is conveniently located less than an hour from the airport, with a smooth drive the whole way. Playa Flamingo was always a community centered around boating, with the first privately built marina beginning its operation
Access to education in the area has become more and more important.
Tamaridno, 1997
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Recent aerial shot of Flamingo and surrounding area.
Flamingo, early 1970s
Aerial photos: Toh Gouttenoire
in 1989, before the existence of the Costa Rican Marine Law. In 2004 it was closed, and the community anxiously awaited approval for a new marina by the National Technical Secretariat of the Ministry of Environment (SETENA). With plans approved for 200plus boat slips, plus a boutique hotel, marinafront bungalows, a convention center, restaurants and shopping; there is much to look forward to in Flamingo’s future. Access to education in the area has become more and more important with the Flamingo area’s population growing. There are now many options for Pre-K to 12th grade schools in the area, including the accredited IB Diploma School, La Paz, located in the Mar Vista project. La Paz is a bilingual school with the goal of integrating students from all income levels and backgrounds with its scholarship program at a convenient location to Mar Vista families. La Paz along with many other education options such as CRIA, Educarte, Tide Academy and The Waldorf
School, have helped to create the perfect place to raise a family. When the development first began on this stretch of coast, there weren’t many laws in place to protect the area’s natural resources. Since then there have been many efforts to protect the local wildlife, like the establishment of Marino Las Baulas National Park in 1990. This park now protects the endangered leatherback turtles, who come every year to nest on the shores of beautiful Playa Grande. Mar Vista is dedicated to its own eco-friendly practices, including reforestation within the development, and setting aside 30 percent of the area as a reserve. As the Flamingo area continues to expand and develop, Mar Vista will remain one of the community’s leaders for positive, eco-friendly growth. At an address to be remembered, contact Mar Vista or come by and enjoy anytime. The beauty never fades and the life you dream about is real.
Playa Potrero, 1974
Flamingo Marina, late 1980s
Recent aerial shot of Playa Conchal through PlayaPortrero with Mar Vista in the foreground.
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CR BIZ MINI-MAG
PRO TIPS
FOR YOUR SMALL BUSINESS: MARKETING & PROMOTIONS
by Laura Galvin Nomad Design House
Last month we discussed defining your audience and branding your business. In order to start marketing your business successfully, you need to know who to direct your communications toward, and how to best appeal to them. If you missed Part 1: Audience & Brand Identity, find it online at howlermag.com.
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DOING BUSINESS RIGHT
arketing is about creative communication and making lasting connections with your audience. How do you let your potential customers know that you provide something they want or need? First, understand that you will need to set aside a marketing budget. As a general rule of thumb, small businesses should spend between 5 percent and 10 percent of their revenue on marketing. This can be tough for small business owners; however, if you use that budget wisely, you’ll soon see the investment pay off. You have to spend money to make money! To begin planning, you’ll need to decide what you want to tell your audience, and consider the best ways to reach them. Where do they frequent or search for information? When will they be interested in your product or service, and why? These
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answers will help you decide where to spend your time and budget. To create a buzz and develop brand recognition, it’s more valuable to execute a few ideas around the same time. Across the board, your marketing visuals should be eye-catching but clean, and your messaging should be concise yet meaningful. There is a limited amount of time to capture your audience’s attention, and you need to choose the most important points to communicate and actions to take. (If you need help, download our “Marketing Cheat Sheet” at nomaddesignhouse.com.) One of the most traditional and reliable forms of advertising is with a print or online publication that shares the same target audience. For example, if you are targeting tourists or expats in Costa Rica, there are local publications (like the Howler!) that have an excellent following and allow you to easily and effectively communicate with their readership.
Having a strong online presence is key, beginning with a professionally designed, search engine optimized website. Equally important is to create profiles on relevant social platforms or directories like Google, Trip Advisor or Facebook with detailed,
up-to-date information that will make it more likely to be found in local searches. Those are the essentials – now let’s talk about some more creative ways to get your brand noticed.
Creating educational or entertaining content that is relevant to your business is what’s known as content marketing. This is done with blog posts, YouTube videos, Facebook groups, and Instagram accounts, just to name a few. Other great ways to create interest in your business are by hosting a free event like a sampling or workshop, sponsoring an event or supporting a local charity. Find a business that shares your audience to collaborate with and co-host, or devise a promotion that benefits you both and adds value for the consumer, like a referral program or member discount. For best results, all material created to execute your marketing plan should follow your brand guidelines, and ideally, be professionally designed. Ads, flyers, websites, signs and all other marketing material are important, long-lasting communication tools, so you want to be sure they represent your brand in the best way, and convey your messaging clearly.
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CR BIZ MINI-MAG
by Tatiana Vandruff
The Permit Process Step by Step
BUILDING COSTA RICA
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o build a residence in Costa Rica, there’s a general three-stage process that everyone must follow: 1. Hire an architect or civil engineer registered and licensed by the College of Engineers and Architects of Costa Rica (CFIA). This is the professional who will prepare your home construction plans. 2. Complete the building permit process. 3. Proceed with construction of your home. This stage must include a licensed professional that will follow-up the technical direction of the construction plans. Before obtaining your residential building permit, due diligence is essential during the design plan phase in gathering a variety of documents. Be sure to allow adequate time to compile them. The architect or engineer in charge of the project should assist you with the details as follows. • Land use permit (uso de suelo) from the municipality indicates certified zoning and any applicable restrictions on property usage. • Municipal setbacks certification ensures you are fully aware of restricted areas on your property. • Water certification letter, issued by the the public utility AyA (or ASADA for rural aqueducts), assures water is available on the site you wish to develop, and advises of any improvements that may be required. • Electrical availability letter, issued by the electric company servicing the building site, ensures there is a utility service nearby and advises of any improvements that may be required for your construction. • Environmental permit may be
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necessary depending on the size of your residence. Other specific municipal compliance requirements may also apply. Be sure to research carefully and ensure they are
The architect or engineer in charge of the project should assist you with the details. met before you are ready to apply for your residential building permit.
Two steps
Two procedures must be completed to obtain your residential building permit. 1. Obtain digital approval from the CFIA using APC (electronic project administration) system — 24 hours You have to upload the following items to the APC platform: • Approval by the licensed architect or civil engineer managing your building project AND by a licensed electrical engineer. APC assesses the construction value as the basis for calculating your building permit fees. • A recorded plot map from the National Registry. • The original water availability letter from AyA or the ASADA. • • Soil Infiltration test results for sanitary drainage. • Payment for the construction stamps associated with APC platform usage and the legal logbook that will be used during construction.
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Other requirements may apply based on the specifications of the building itself. 2. Municipal Approval — minimum 30 days In many municipalities, this process may be completed through the same APC system. Otherwise, it must be done in person by presenting these documents to the municipal engineering department: • Certification that municipal property tax payments are up to date. • Certification from the local Costa Rican Social Security agency (CCSS) office that you are up to date with any payments due. If you do not have any current affiliation with CCSS, you must provide certification that there are no debts. Once the municipality receives the documentation, it will issue a form that will allow you to process the mandatory insurance coverage for the workers building your property in the event of an accident. Once completed, this form must be submitted to the National Insurance Institute (INS) with payment of the policy amount (approximately 1.17 percent of the assessed value of construction work). Certification of payment must be presented back to the municipality before it issues your final permit. Your final step is to pay the building permit fee — 1 percent of the APCassessed value of construction — and then finally you obtain the building permit number. Now, you are ready to post the permit in a visible location on the site and start building your new home!
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 51
INVESTMENT CHAT WITH NATIVU
CR BIZ MINI-MAG
Flipping Properties: Know the Game by Fabricio Riggioni
O
ne of my favorite ways to invest in real estate is flipping homes — nothing more than buying a property at a certain price, adding value to it and selling it again with an attractive profit margin. This definition is simple in nature, but the process requires time and expertise, and more so, attention to details. This is a brief walkthrough I share with my clients about flipping homes that will make the path to success easier.
Stage 1. Research and analyze the current market situation
Look for properties that are cosmetic disasters.
This is the most important stage and it’s crucial to get it right from the start. Flipping homes is not a race so I advise taking your time and doing your homework. A good home flipper is both savvy and patient. We want to buy properties located in thriving communities with good growth potential in terms of population and infrastructure.
Construction of new schools, banks, clinics, health centers and other services are good signs at this stage. Analyze the current selling price of houses with similar characteristics from the ones you have picked as possible flipping opportunities. Understand how market pricing measures against current economic scenarios. For example, in Costa Rica, due to the current colon currency devaluation and the rise of interest rates, the rate of default mortgage payments has increased from 2 percent to 2.6 percent in only nine months. This means more people are not paying their obligations to banks; hence more opportunities on good deals will come in the mid future.
Stage 2. Picking the right property to flip Build your own financial flipping formula and stick to it. Don’t let
your emotions get in the way of picking a good asset to flip. Look at this formula: (purchase price + upgrade expenses) * (1+ profit margin) = selling price
Stage 3. Putting the team together and cashing out Once you’ve finished writing up your upgrade budget, you will have to put together a team of professionals to carry out the job, each of them with specific responsibilities. The architect and interior designer will be in charge of making the house appealing to the client niche you have previously selected. The engineers will help get the remodeling plans approved and lead out the construction. Finally, the real estate advisor will market the property accordingly and lead the negotiations and closing procedures. These three easy-to-follow steps will make your flipping journey enjoyable while cashing out a good profit at the end. Happy flipping!
Let’s suppose you purchased a $100K home that needed $20K in paint, woodwork, landscaping and new kitchen cabinetry. You want to get a 30 percent profit on your flip, so utilizing the formula stated above your selling price would be: ($100,000 + $20,000) * (1+0.30)= $156,000 There are other expenses such as legal and escrow fees that will vary depending on the deal at hand.
NATIVU • Investment Consultant: Fabricio Riggioni Phone: (506) 8301-0663 • Email: fabricio@nativu.com | #searchfindhowl| online howlermag.com
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 53
FAQs
SIMPLY SPANISH by Sylvia Barreto Benites and Spanish For Expats
Flipping Properties Successfully in Costa Rica
INVESTMENT CHAT WITH NATIVU
by Fabricio Riggioni
Do I have to pay any taxes when I do property flipping?
Proposed Costa Rican tax reforms, currently at voting stage, include a new requirement for any person or company selling houses, lots, commercial buildings or software to pay a 15 percent capital gains tax. For example, if you buy a house for $100,000 and sell it within a year for $150,000 the tax will be 15 percent of $50,000, or $7,500. According to this proposed plan, the tax does not apply to people who sell the house where they live, an inheritance or lottery profits.
What would be an average timeline for a flipping process on a house in Guanacaste in current market situations?
1. Market analysis: One month
Depending how well you know the area. Take at least a month to explore the province. Learn where all services are and what the nicest towns are. In general, get to know how things work!
2. Picking and buying the right property: One to two months Negotiations, due diligence research and closings could make this stage longer. If this happens stay ahead of the game and start building your A team for remodeling or construction.
3. Remodeling and selling:
Eight to 14 months in current market situations. This timeline definitely depends on your team as well as the upgrades you choose for the home. If you can complete this process in 12
months and cash out a 30 percent profit, then you have got it down!
Which houses are easier to flip?
Flipping is like any other business in the world. If you know who your audience and target customer is, the flip turnaround time will be shorter. For example, if your target customer is a family of four from California, then this should pretty much do the trick: fix up a three-bedroom home with a large master bath and bedroom, plus two smaller rooms with individual private baths, a large living area with a spacious kitchen and a beautiful pool with open spaces near a good surf break. But don’t stop there! Going further with smart lighting, hydroponic gardens on the property and other cool amenities will set you apart from the rest.
How can NATIVU and Howler Magazine help me get started flipping properties in Costa Rica?
We provide a 360-degree service. Our investment team will help you find good flipping opportunities in the area, advising you and creating the financial scenarios in order to pick the right property according to your plan and needs. We will help you budget and start the remodeling process through our trusted partners. After construction is finished we will market your property digitally, looking for a quick turnaround during negotiations and closings with clients. Howler exposure can be invaluable at any stage.
NATIVU • Investment Consultant: Fabricio Riggioni Phone: (506) 8301-0663 • Email: fabricio@nativu.com 54 | #searchfindhowl| online
Real Estate Terms appraisal - valoracion appraiser - perico assumable mortgage - hipoteca asumible balloon payment - préstamo reembolsable al vencimiento bridge loan - prestamo puente buyers agent - agente del comprador chain of title - cadena de titularidad clear title - título libre closing costs - costo de cierre collateral - colateral contingencies - contingencia contract - contrato deed - escritura due diligence - debida diligencia easement - servidumbre escrow - fideicomiso exclusive listing - enlistado exclusivo financing - financiamiento inspection - inspección sellers agent - agente del vendedor list - enlistado offer - oferta open listing - enlistado Abierto real estate agent - agente de bienes raíces real estate broker -agente de bienes raíces
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 55
CR BIZ MINI-MAG
Yearly Taxes Due A
LEGAL EASE
by Ivan Granados
s a Costa Rican property and/or corporation owner, you should be aware of taxes that need to be paid annually. Failure to comply may be subject to fines and judicial collection procedures.
by the Tax Office in late December. For more details, see Howler’s LegalEase article in the November 2018 issue.
Luxury Tax
— next due January 30, 2019
— next due January 15, 2019
Costa Rica’s Solidarity Tax for the Strengthening of Housing Programmes (Impuesto Solidario para el Fortalecimiento de Programas de Vivienda) is commonly known as Luxury Tax. It applies to houses, condominiums and apartments with a construction/building value exceeding an exempt amount determined by the Tax Office, adjusted each year. The current amount for 2018 is 129,000,000 colones, about US$230,000. The amount of tax paid is determined on a scale from 0.25 percent to 0.55 percent per year, depending on your declared property value. Non-exempt homeowners are required to pay the applicable tax amount every year, and must file this declaration form every three years: D-179 "Formulario Único de Inscripción, Declaración y Pago Impuesto Solidario para el Fortalecimiento de Programas de Vivienda, Ley 8683." The form and relevant details are available online. The next Luxury Home Tax filing deadline is Jan.15, 2019. Parameters for the following tax year will be published
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Annual Corporate Tax Effective September 1, 2017, all corporations, subsidiaries and limited liability companies registered before the National Registry, currently or in the future, as well as all entities incorporated in the future, are subject to pay an annual tax under Law # 9428: "Tax over legal entities." A fixed amount of $120 applies to inactive corporations. A progressive rate for active corporations depends on income and ranges from $120 to $380. If this tax is not duly paid, the National Registry will not issue, certify or register any documents for the corporations involved. Furthermore, the companies will not be able to contract with the government or any public institution.
Property Taxes and Garbage Collection Fee — next due March 31, 2019
Property owners must pay an annual property tax (impuestos bienes inmuebles) and garbage collection fee (recolección basura) to the municipal government (municipalidad) where their property is located. The property tax is 0.25% of the
registered value of the property, which is either the purchase price paid or the value assigned by the Tax Office. The garbage collection fee is a fixed amount, adjusted yearly, that must be collected along with the property taxes. The municipality determines the fee based on location and on whether the property is used for residential or commercial purposes. Note: The Municipalidad de Santa Cruz does not always charge both amounts payable in the same statement, which may cause property owners confusion and inconvenience. The municipality has attributed this to “lack of updated records and/or to administrative errors within the system.” Therefore, the property owners involved are advised to review their statement carefully to avoid unpleasant surprises. This property tax and garbage collection fee can be paid a year in advance or quarterly. However, if paid quarterly, you must pay before the end of each quarter to avoid interest charges. The first quarter of the year ends on March 31. Owners must fill out a form to update the value of their property every five years. Failure to do so can lead to a municipality assessment and fines. The municipality is currently requiring property owners to update the value of their properties prior to the last quarter of this year 2018 and first quarter of 2019.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 57
CR BIZ DIRECTORY Real Estate, Property Management and Architects
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Mural created during the Aliados Festival in San José, Costa Rica, March 2018. (Ezequiel Becerra /AFP)
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HOWLER
CO N T E N T S Holidays in San José Cover Story
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4 ACE: Arts Culture Entertainment 4 - ACE Feature: Holidays in San José 8 - CR History in Photos: Holiday Traditions
10 - Juan Santamaria Historical Cultural Museum 12 - Cultural Heritage: Ox Cart History in Costa Rica 14 - Urban Tourism: Carpe Chepe! 16 - Spotlight: Diego Fournier 18 - Tico Time Zone: Costa Rica Great Escape
JUAN SANTAMARIA Cultural Museum
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DINING GUIDE HOWLER
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HISTORY OF THE OX CART Cultural Heritage
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19 Dining Guide 21 - La Cave - Tamarindo / Langosta 21 - El Barco Del Capitan - Tamarindo / Langosta 22 - La Playita Restaurante - Huacas 22 - New Yor Pizzeria - Huacas 22 - Black Stallion - Villarreal 23 - The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula - Palm Beach 24 - Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant - Brasilito 25 - Nasu Restauran - Surfside / Potrero
DIEGO FOURNIER Spotlight
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25 - The Beach House - Surfside / Potrero 26 - Sentido Norte - Las Catalinas 27 - Vaca Loka - Flamingo 27 - Che Sirloin - Playas del Coco 27 - Coconutz Bar & Grill - Playas del Coco
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ACE FEATURE
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by Mónica Barrios Jerez
Holy Days, or “días de los Santos,” are taken seriously but in the most festivespirited sense. | #searchfindhowl| online
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s a Costa Rican who loves this small, beautiful paradise, I feel absolutely blessed that my birthplace is so rich in nature, culture, customs and folklore. It’s a proud heritage, nurtured by humble people committed to keeping alive the abundance of time-honored traditions for future generations. When it comes to celebrating the yearend holidays, or “fiestas de fin de año”, there are so many uniquely Costa Rican flavors and flourishes that make the experience truly special. With a predominantly Roman Catholic population, it’s a country where holy days, or “día de los Santos,” are taken seriously but in the most festive-spirited sense. In
fact, “fiestas” have a symbolically religious significance, bringing families together from all different parts of the country to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s. Other reasons to celebrate are the end of the school year and vacations being around the corner for both private and public sectors. The delicious smell of tamales can be found wafting from almost every corner of the country. These are not just any tamales, but the traditional Tico version of a corn flour tortilla filled with stew ingredients — likely from a treasured family recipe — and wrapped in banana leaves. Tamales are a must-have taste treat, synonymous with Christmas in Costa Rica.
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Must-Do Activities in San José Festival de la Luz Dec. 15 at 6 p.m.
Happy Holidays in San José
In its 23rd year, San José’s “Festival de la Luz” (Festival of Lights) is unlike any other celebration in Costa Rica, attracting over a million spectators annually. Each year features a different theme with a parade of floats, masquerade dancers, typical Costa Rican bands and dancers and fireworks. This festival is associated with the capital city’s year-end festivities. It all starts at 6 p.m. with fireworks from the roofs of the tallest city buildings. The parade can be viewed anywhere along its two-mile (3.2 kilometer) route, starting from the Gimnacio Nacional and entering Paseo Colón to reach Plaza de la Democrácia. More information: www.festivaldelaluz.cr
Zapote
Dec. 25 – Jan. 3
High season, starting in November, is so-named for the upsurge in national and international tourists. An obvious draw is the transition to the drier and sunnier weather in December and summer’s onset in January. But what better time for Costa Rican vacation plans to include joining in the local holiday festivities? San José, translated as “Saint Joseph” and named in honor of Joseph of Nazareth, is Costa Rica’s capital and largest city. As the biggest population hub, it is where most holiday events, concerts and fiestas take place. The museums, schools, universities, art galleries, water parks and multi-cultural attractions, as well as colonial infrastructure, set San José apart as the ideal vacation spot for adults and children alike.
Museo de Los Niños facade. Photo: Jose Gerardo Suares Monge
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This end-of-year celebration, also known as a mega-fest, takes place in the eastern San José district of Zapote. Lasting 10 days, a variety of activities are offered for all tastes and ages — a little bit of everything. That includes the famed Tico-style bull riding in the “Redondel” (bullring). Attendees can also enjoy dozens of rides, parades, national and international concerts, megabars and nightly fireworks. Your appetite can be satisfied in many delicious ways, from fast food to traditional Costa Rican carnival food. Christmas and New Year’s Eve feature even bigger celebrations in Campo Ferial Zapote, accompanied by music, food and of course, plenty of fireworks. More information: www.fiestaszapote.com Photos: Gilberto Luna
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Tope Nacional Dec. 26 at noon
Topes are parades showcasing beautiful horses, horsemanship and cowboy outfits. San José’s “Tope Nacional” is one of the largest and most spectacular events of its kind, hosting about five thousand riders and more than a million viewers. Horse owners and farmers from across the country come to the capital to show off their prized horses and riding skills. Since Costa Rica is rich in farming and ranching tradition, Tope Nacional has become a holiday tradition for many Ticos. It takes place in Avenida Segunda starting at noon with a parade of horsemen, masquerades and comparsas filling the streets with music and joy. If you want to be part of the fun, don't forget your cowboy hat, blue jeans and boots! More information: facebook.com/fiestassjo or detope.com
Photo: Gilberto Luna
Pedregal Bull Riding: “Toros a la Tica” Dec. 25 – 31
While the Zapote bullring remains the traditional bull riding venue, Pedregal’s “Toros a la Tica” has drawn its own following in recent years. The six-day event features a bull riding championship, rodeos, live music, food and more. Admission costs 8,000 colones ($16) for adults and 5,0000 colones ($10) for children. Centro de Eventos Predregal in Belén, west of San José. More information: facebook.com/TOROSalaTICAOficial
Fiestas de Palmares Jan.13 – 22
Celebrating the patron saint of Palmares, this fiesta includes horse parades, live music concerts, the “Festival Ranchero,” fireworks, mega-bars and much more. It all takes place in Palmares, Alajuela, which is quick and easy to access from San José city center. More information: facebook.com/FiestasPalmares2018 or acp@fiestaspalmares.com
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Iluminacion de la Fachada del Museo de los Niños Dec. 1 at 6:30 pm.
Every year on Dec.1, San Jose’s “Museo de los Niños” (Children´s Museum) facade is illuminated with a light show, accompanied by music and entertainment. This free event includes a video on the facade of the building, lighting of over 4,000 lights, dancers, actors and fantasy characters to delight the youngest at heart. Lining up Calle 4, at Centro Costarricense de Ciencia y la Cultura complex, will be a “safe zone” with activities for families starting at 1 p.m. that afternoon. More information: www.museocr.org or facebook.com/museodelosninoscr
Asociación Pro Hospital Nacional de Niños – Parque Diversiones This amusement park is sure to amuse everyone. Enjoy fun-filled times on roller coaster, water coaster and many other favorite thrilling rides, plus a train and arcade. Throughout December, the park will be decked out in Christmas decor and offering special seasonal activities, including live music and dances. Parque Diversiones is located in La Uruca, two kilometers west of Hospital Mexico, Avenida 59, San José. More information: www.parquediversiones.com
Teatro Nacional
Various December Dates
The National Theater fits prominently into the holiday traditions of many Costa Ricans wanting to enjoy a concert or dance performance in this spectacular venue before it closes for the year. Located in the heart of San José, Avenida 2, Calle 1, the country’s so-called “crown jewel” is featuring the following playbill lineup for 2018: 12th Annual End-of-Season Concert conducted by Carl St. Clair Dec. 2, 10:30 a.m. — 12:30 p.m. “Alicia en el País de las Maravillas” Dec. 7 — 16, various times A newly minted Costa Rican tradition is to watch this holiday take on the famous fairytale, Alice in Wonderland. The performance brings together the country’s best classical ballet, contemporary, urban and jazz dancers. Navidad Espectacular: "Los Tenores" Dec. 21 — 22 The renowned Costa Rican musical group of four talented singers performs traditional and pop holiday songs. More information: www.teatronacional.go.cr #s earchf indh owl
In the same Tico spirit of celebrating Christmas, every corner of San José, every house and every street will be beautifully decorated, as well as all the shopping centers and plazas. We make time in our schedules to take in all the sights and sounds of the season. Over the years, we have adopted different traditions from other countries, only to make them our own like drinking rompope, our version of eggnog. We merge them with the culture and traditions that define us as Costa Ricans but of course, without losing our own identity. Our essence is to be preserved and protected at the roots for coming generations to pass on in turn.
Spanish Terms Comparsa: a group of singers, musicians and dancers that take part in carnivals and other festivities in Spain and Latin America. Fiesta: Spanish for festival or party, including religious festivals in some traditional cultures. Masquerade: Event or activity where participants wear masks and costumes. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 7
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT Costa Rican style “bullfights,” as depicted here in 1935 at San José’s Plaza Viquez, have given way to bull riding as a popular spectator sport.
Holiday Traditions Never Get Tiresome
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by José Gerardo Suárez Monge and Howler Staff
CR HISTORY IN PHOTOS
ome things never change about Christmas, while others do over time. Either way, the year-end holidays in Costa Rica — “fiestas de fin de año” —are a blend of ever-evolving customs. Whether originating here or adopted from elsewhere with a Tico twist, all are integral to the country’s national identity. Past and present generations of locals have celebrated the season in a style distinctively their own. Visitors and newcomers who are unfamiliar should never miss the chance to discover the magic of Christmas in Costa Rica and experience it for themselves. The population’s predominantly Roman Catholic faith heritage is reflected in the larger number of annual holy days — “día de los Santos”— appearing on Costa Rican calendars compared with many other parts of the world. That religious symbolism retains a place in the mainstream culture of Christmas is not surprising, nor is the season’s relative importance as a
celebration-worthy holiday. None of this is to say that the sacred and secular elements are mutually exclusive in any way suggesting it’s a serious and solemn time of year. As noted in this Howler issue’s ACE cover story, “fiestas” have a symbolically religious significance, despite the widespread notion of being synonymous with “party time.” What Costa Rica’s yearend fiestas have in common with their counterparts almost universally is the coming together of families from near and far to have fun being festive. School and work vacations contribute to the upbeat spirit. From dazzling light displays and ornately decorated palm trees to the legacy of authentic Tico tamales and toasting friends with a cup of “rompope” (akin to eggnog), it’s a time for traditions that never grow tiresome. Modern innovations and practical or safety considerations might change some of the ways people celebrate, but never their intent or purpose.
A passion for historical photos
Photos are provided courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge, author of “San José: 280 Years of History.” Suárez is a professional photographer and graphic designer with a degree in electrical engineering from the Tecnológico in Cartago, but his passion is collecting and analyzing historical photos — he has over 14,000. He has seven books for sale, which are available at Librería Lehmann and the University of Costa Rica bookstore, or by calling 7062-3086 or 8794-7679.
Past and present generations of locals have celebrated the season in a style distinctively their own.
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A snow-free (and sled-free) adaptation of toboggan sliding found its way to Costa Rica from the Northern Hemisphere at some point in history. This San José Plaza Viquez attraction is pictured in 1955.
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
JUAN SANTAMARIA
HISTORICAL CULTURAL MUSEUM Discover a Heritage Like No Other
ACE MUSEUM
Photos courtesy of Juan Santamaria Historical Cultural Museum
by Howler Staff
The museum occupies the community’s old army barracks and prison buildings.
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istory buffs can explore endless facets of Costa Rica’s military, cultural and artistic heritage through ever-changing exhibits and events at this fascinating attraction near San José. The Juan Santamaría Historical Cultural Museum is an initiative of the Ministry of Culture and Youth. Located in the city of Alajuela, facing the north side of Central Park, the museum occupies the community’s old army barracks and prison buildings dating back to the 1870s. The museum’s historical themes reflect the Costa Rican state’s formation, from becoming an independent nation in 1821, to political and military conflicts three decades later. Highlights of the Central American War are showcased, along with the 1856-1857 Filibuster War, which Costa Ricans regard as their true war of independence. A permanent exhibit is devoted to those landmark events and the national heroes involved: Juan Santamaría — for whom the museum is named — as well as Juan Rafael Mora Porras, Francisca "Pancha" Carrasco and Nicolás Aguilar Murillo, among others. In addition, visitors can view temporary exhibitions of national and international artists. Rooms equipped for these loaned exhibits are on
the museum’s second floor. Guided educational tours are available upon request for students, government officials and groups as well as workshops for teachers. The museum also develops annual programs such as "On the Steps of Our Heroes," consisting of walks and visits to historic Filibuster War sites. The museum also features a wide range of cultural events, with concert band, theater and storytelling performances scheduled on a monthly calendar. Examples include the "Night of Stories", "Music in the Museum with the Concert Bands of Alajuela” and "Youth and Music." The museum is open to the public Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Admission is free. For information: Museo Histórico Cultural Juan Santamaría Visit: www.museojuansantamaria.go.cr Phone: 2430-5778 / 2441-4775 Email: cultura@mhcjs.go.cr Facebook: Museo Histórico Cultural Juan Santamaría Costa Rica
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
ACE CULTURAL HERITAGE
WHEELS TO THE WORLD Ox cart of bygone era a cultural treasure today by Ana Patricia Pacheco
The ox cart opened doors of progress to our ancestors.
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lthough its golden age in Costa Rica’s export trade history has long since faded, the ox cart remains one of the country’s most important ancestral legacies. As an unmistakable national symbol, it embodies the spirit of work and humility, as if inscribed in the soul of Costa Rican generations past, present and future. This sense of timelessness was brought to bear from a cultural heritage standpoint in relatively recent times. A desire to revitalize and preserve the traditional use of ox and carts in Costa Rica motivated a research study by Carmen Murillo, Cecilia Dobles and Giselle Chang to carry out an investigation. Sponsored by Costa Rica’s Ministry of Culture and Youth, and UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization), this project formed the country’s submission to occupy an exclusive global list of cultural heritage assets. On November 25, 2005, the combined tradition of “boyeo” (use of oxen) and “carreta” (cart) was declared by UNESCO as a "Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity."
The agricultural use of boyeos and carretas originated in colonial times. Ox carts provided a transportation vehicle for family members as well as export crops. In addition to tirelessly carrying loads of coffee beans to market, they provided an inseparable link between rural Costa Rica and the outside world. On return trips back home, the ox cart’s turning axles sang a melodious song the oxherd was proud of, carrying the promise of news and goods from overseas. Ox carts had a presence in the fervor of religious and festive celebrations, and also in political fervor. They figured into some of the most important moments of Costa Rican peasant family lives. The ox cart opened doors of progress to our ancestors. It built our homeland as a primordial tool in the construction of buildings, temples and villages, as well as the harvesting of crops. Its humanitarian service extended to the transportation of sick people. It was also a party to the secret rendezvous of amorous couples, sneaking around to hidden places. Ornately hand-painted ox carts are
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Ox carts were originally painted to depict family or finca (farm) ownership. Eventually, the owners took pride in the elaborate details of their carts and spent many hours adorning them.
universally recognized as an indelible hallmark of Costa Rica’s identity. Whether a tribute to the farm family’s affection, ancestry, location or social status, the practice of transforming plain wood into a canvas of dazzling colors, texture and light became part of the ox cart’s symbolic national destiny. The meticulous craftsmanship that makes each cart a uniquely expressive and beautiful work of art is celebrated and showcased in museum exhibits, parades and festivals throughout the country. After 1960, the mechanization of agriculture displaced ox carts to a significant extent. However, they can still be found, particularly in high valley
regions and steep lands where vast coffee plantations thrive, or in less developed, remote locations. But as functional uses of the ox cart have declined, efforts to raise awareness of its cultural significance have increased. In effect, this former mainstay of locomotion has been "folklorized." Even when long since replaced by modern engines, the ox cart still travels slowly along the roads. Aromas emanate not only of coffee, but also sugar cane and firewood. The ox cart is the early riser. It is the sun at noon, indefatigable by dusty or muddy roads or virgin mountain trails. It is the indissoluble association of oxen and oxherd.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
CHEPE CLETAS Stroll, Cycle, See, Learn and Enjoy Your Way
ACE URBANTOURISM
C
hepe Cletas was created in 2010 for the main purpose of enhancing perceptions of San José. Other goals were to promote the use and appreciation of public spaces and transportation alternatives to the automobile. The three founding members were a civil engineer, an industrial engineer and a biologist. The name translates to “Chepe” — a popular or slang reference to San José (along the lines of “Joe”) — and “Cletas,” meaning bicycle, or more commonly bike. However, our activities have never been restricted to cycling. Initially, we offered historical walks and bike tours, both at night. Eight years later, we continue hosting both walking and cycling tours to the public on a regular basis. Wednesday evenings, we take a bike ride through different areas of San José, starting at 7 p.m. at Spain Park. The tour is free; you just need to bring a bike. Almost every Sunday, our historical tours on foot start at 10 a.m. from Morazán Park. The themes vary, including historic neighborhoods, specialty coffee, expresidents, urban art, bakeries, canteens and lots more. It costs 5,000 colones per person to participate, with no charge for children. Additionally, we carry out private tours for groups, companies, tour operators and educational institutions, both on foot and by bicycle, in English and Spanish. In these instances, we adapt to the date, time, preferences and needs of each group. The cost depends on group size. These private tours have been very well received by a wide range of businesses, municipalities, embassies, universities (national and international), schools, colleges and other institutions. What all our tours have in common is the historical aspect. We enjoy sharing information about the history of our city, but especially certain curious facts that may surprise people. For example, San José was the third city in the world to have electric lighting. One of our most requested tours takes a historical
by Roberto Guzman Fernandez
journey of coffee and markets. We visit the Bourbon and Central markets, walking through several historically important spaces between Morazán Park and Central Avenue. Tour participants stop at a specialty coffee shop where the barista gives a short talk, followed by an opportunity to taste some specialty coffee. This tour lasts about two hours. Another tour includes stops at three traditional canteens in San José, where participants can sample liquor produced at the FANAL, Costa Rica’s national distillery. Other historic sites are visited along the way during this three-hour tour. Chepe Cletas also offers a two-hour bicycle tour through different historical neighborhoods of San José. Suitable for people in any physical condition, it includes a guide, bicycle and helmet. One of our tours integrates nature with the history of San José, with a visit to a butterfly garden and a small regenerated forest along the Torres River banks. The cost for these tours depends on the number of participants. The larger the group the lower the cost, ranging between $15 and $40 per person and also depending on the route. When asked to name the top three most iconic places to visit in San José, I find it impossible. Some of my favorites include Mercado Central (Central Market) and these parks: Morazán, Jardín de Paz, España and Nacional. The National Theater, Barrio Amón and Barrio Otoya are highlights too, as well as the urban art in the surrounding area of the Legislative Assembly building and Barrio La California.
What all our tours have in common is the historical aspect.
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For information: Whatsapp: 8849-8316 Email: info@chepecletas.com Social media: ChepeCletasCR Visit: chepecletas.com
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Photos courtesy of Chepe Cletas
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
DIEGO FOURNIER Expressing magic in the world
Photos: Albaro Arrollo & David Vega
ACE SPOTLIGHT
Mural located at Avenue 1 San José, at the Paguemenos storetheir carts.
by Howler Staff
“It was that boy coloring outside the lines, anxious to explore through drawings in the notebook he always carried.”
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D
iego Fournier is a prolific Costa Rican illustrator and storyteller, raised in a family of musicians and artists. His own artistic studies began when he was just 7 years old at the Conservatorio de Castella. After graduating from its painting program, Fournier pursued professional studies in graphic design and engraving at the University of Costa Rica. The scope and diversity of his internationally acclaimed work encompasses many interdisciplinary spheres of illustration, including animation, video games, paintings, murals, posters and self-published children’s stories and artist’s books. Pencil Ilustradores, the Spain-based agency representing his work, lauds Fournier’s talents in demonstrating that “brevity is a friend of perfection” when it comes to effectively expressing visual ideas in simple, playful and concrete ways. The agency’s web profile for the artist reflects on his roots: “It was that boy coloring outside the lines, anxious to explore through drawings in the notebook he always carried … a window of the world he perceives. Pages full of abrupt gestures, overlapping lines, images that go beyond the limits, a deep study of the color.” Fournier’s achievements have been widely recognized in a variety of competitions, exhibits and educational events since the start of his career. In 2010, he took second prize in the Best Latin American Illustrations exhibit in Argentina, and soon after, his video game entry won recognition in the digital art exhibition “Inquieta Imagen.” As a selected participant in the 2012 project "From my neighborhood
to your neighborhood," he painted a mural on the facade of San Jose’s legislative assembly building and his work was shown in a subsequent art exhibition in Germany. The same year, Fournier took part in the artistic residency "Raptors: Traces and Gestures" in Nicaragua for emerging artists from the United States and Central America. Other highlights have included international design and poster events in Cuba, Bolivia and Mexico. In the latter country, he has twice collaborated with other artists in a Pueblo wall mural festival, most recently painting Faustthemed illustrations on a public library wall in the El Alto neighborhood. “We spent the evenings painting,” reads one of Fournier’s August 2018 blog entries. “We drew, we talked, we were a lot of painters from all over, sharing, to do something significant in a forgotten neighborhood. Wonderful this job of painting murals, that can take us to so many places.” Indeed, according to Pencil Ilustradores, Fournier dreams of painting the largest mural and when reaching it, he starts dreaming again for a bigger one. “Committed to his craft, he firmly believes that art is the best way to discover the magic in this world.”
Check out Diego Fournier online: diegofurnier diegofourniersoto diegofournier@gmail.com
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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
ALL IN ON COSTA RICA THE GREAT ESCAPE Part 1
TTZ - TICO TIME ZONE
A
Vintage photos of great summer times I spent with hometown friends, including buddy Dave (above), remind me why it was hard to leave Newport behind for good.
I knew I had to get fired, but in an intelligent way — one that left room for begging to get my job back. 18
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ugust 2018 marked the 20th anniversary of my first business opening in Costa Rica — Super Pura Vida (located where Indra Inn is now). No, not the “pura vida” expression but a minisupermarket name. The backstory is about getting myself fired from a job in Rhode Island that was too good to quit. It was this awesome summer bartending gig at The Landing, in my hometown of Newport, that had enabled me to spend every winter since 1995 living and surfing in Costa Rica. It was great work and easy money, part of a strategy that had served me well for several seasons. I’d stay in my buddy's attic loft and save money for the coming winter. But the time came when I needed to pull the chute and bail out of the U.S. full-time for good. I promised myself that 1997 would be my last summer bartending, before buckling down and putting down permanent roots in Costa Rica. I was already well on my way to living the dream, with a purchase deposit on a Playa Grande lot and even an investor to back my construction plans for a supermarket and six cabinas. Anyone who knows me also knows one of my favorite sayings: "Somebody has to live here, so it might as well be me!” Quitting my job in Rhody was easier said than done. The Landing closed every September and reopened on Memorial Day, so it was a seasonal job and I never lost seniority. When push came to shove, I just could not bring myself to leave such a gravy job voluntarily. I knew I had to get fired, but in an intelligent way — one that left room for begging to get rehired if things went sideways in Costa Rica. As it turned out, the surf and technology gods both ensured that my departure swan song in the summer of 1997 was perfectly orchestrated, but
by Johnny Lahoud
with no intelligence on my part being a factor. First came the gift of Hurricane Felicia, a storm for all the ages. It formed off Puerto Rico and hit category 4 churning towards Cape Hatteras. Then once the swell reached 200 miles south of Nantucket, she just stalled and wobbled around off New Jersey for eight days. To quote an oldtimer at the time, “This shit just don't happen, man!" Felicia’s escape was blocked by 10 to 15 mph offshore breezes, and insanity followed. I was surfing the best swell ever during the day and still making $300 bartending at night. I was also barely sleeping and knew something had to give. After 13 solid days of surfing and working, we wanted to throw a clambake and keg party, as the storm was finally pulling away and the next front approaching. So I, the genius, decided to call in sick … from my buddy Dave's house. What I overlooked was that call waiting and caller ID had just been invented and many telephones were equipped with these up-to-date features. So when my lovely boss, Peggy Jane, noticed the message I had left on her answering machine was from Dave's house, she called back and told me not to bother coming in to work ever again! So my perfect ending to this perfect summer job turned out to be a telephone breakup. I even sent my buddy to collect my final paycheck, figuring I might still try begging for forgiveness after coming to my senses and realizing it was Felicia who had left me! In any case, my hand was forced and my path started to where I am now in Puravidaville. It wasn't easy cutting ties with all my friends and family and finally making a serious commitment to Costa Rica. Stay tuned for my story of how fun it was to be a first-time builder here in the 1990s.
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HOWLER
DINING GUIDE
Happy
! s y a d Holi
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Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Wed, 7-9pm, Avellino Fri, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante @hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products All taxes included in price
La Cave Playa Langosta in front of Cala Luna entrance Hours Daily, 5:30pm to 10:30pm
El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant El Barco del Capitán is nestled in a beautiful tropical garden within the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. Our chef, Jujo Molina, has created the dishes inspired by his European heritage and the incredible products available in Costa Rica. Using our homegrown ingredients from our organic garden, we strive to offer an environmental friendly menu and an authentic experience to our guests.
MENU SELECTIONS Tacos Carne (Lunch)
$15
Tartar Capitan (Dinner)
$13
The Veggie (Lunch)
$15
Linguini (Dinner)
$23
Lomito (Dinner)
$28
Beef, tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun
Calamares Crujientes (Snack) $13
Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche.
Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing
Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine 200gr of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables
La Cave: Traditional French Cuisine Grill - Seafood France on our plates but served with Costa Rican smiles. French food including seafood, meat, salads and more. We are located near the beach, with outdoor and indoor tables, 10 signature cocktails and our house specialty. We also have a nice variety of wines.
MENU SELECTIONS Phone: 6281-8200 Specialties Premium meats and fresh seafood
Bisque de Langouste Lobster cream soup
Steak Tartare de Boeuf
$6 $22
Beef tenderloin with green pepper, fresh mushroom or red wine sauce
Filet de Porc a l'Estragon $18 Pork filet with tarragon
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Crevettes Jumbo au Gril
$16
Pave de Saumon Grille
$18
Bouillabaisse D'ICI
$26
Jumbo shrimp with garlic butter au grill
Fresh grilled salmon with garlic and parsley butter sauce Fish and seafood cooked in fish soup, Marseille style
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TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo
TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
HUACAS 3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am
La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita restaurant and bar is open to hotel guests and the public, and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.
MENU SELECTIONS
Specialties Food cooked to your taste — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue
Broken Yolk Sandwich
$12
Pasta
Breakfast Quesadilla
$12
Open Grill
BLT La Playita
$10
Pineapple FlambĂŠ
Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit
HUACAS
New York Pizzeria
Pizzeria
New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste, for an authentic New York style pizza or calzone. Dine-in or take-out available. Enjoy!
Specialties Authentic New York style pizza and calzones. Freshly made breadsticks.
MENU SELECTIONS
From $16
Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day
Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato
200m west of the Brasilito/ Huacas crossroads, Huacas www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas Hours Tues-Sun 3pm-11pm Closed Monday Phone: 2653-6296
$14
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
$4
Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream
An 8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal
Black Stallion
Rustic Outdoor BBQ
Hours By reservation Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85. Available for private parties and events.
Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations. Available for private parties and events.
MENU SELECTIONS
Meat Lover's Pizza
Mixed BBQ Buffet
$45
House Special Pizza
Seafood Buffet
$45
Pepperoni, ham, salami, bacon, and ground beef.
Pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, and sweet peppers.
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Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes
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VILLARREAL
Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com
PALM BEACH
DINING GUIDE
Palm Beach, next to the estuary Hours Breakfast available all day long: 7:30am-2:30pm Lunch: 11am-3pm Dinner: 5:30pm-9pm Phone: 2653-0975 frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com Specialties
Daily:
The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula: American Fusion Cuisine
Sunset happy hour 50% off appetizers 4-6pm
Monday:
Mexican all you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Wednesday:
Italian All you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Specialty coffees and espresso
Enjoy casual fine dining and experience “a fusion of the Americas” in a tranquil and inviting setting. At the Great Waltini’s, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal in an attractive dining area or choose to sit under the stars and enjoy your meal on the garden patio. Choose from houseaged steaks, seafood dishes, and down-home fare. Top with cocktails and desserts — the complete experience. Located in beautiful Palm Beach Estates next to the estuary. We are easily accessible from Tamarindo via boat taxi (complimentary with dinner reservations). Pickup time are 5, 5:30 and 6 pm. Please call before 2pm to reserve boat taxi (2653-0975). Happy hour – includes domestic beer, well drinks, famous giant Bula margaritas and appetizer specials.
MENU SELECTIONS Ahi Tuna
Annie's Salad
Double Cut Pork Chop
Hand Carved Turkey
Blackened Shrimp Salad
Aged Filet Mignon
Mahi-Mahi
Baked Lasagna
St. Louis Style Pork Ribs
Mixed Seafood Combo
Aged New York Steak
8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Oven roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and house made gravy 8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Tuna, mahi-mahi, jumbo shrimp, calamari, and mussels in a white wine saffron sauce
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Blackened chicken breast with avocado over crisp greens and fresh vegetables Blackened jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado over fresh lettuce and fresh vegetables Italian sausage, beef and pork, tomato, ricotta, mozzarella and romano cheese
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce 10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce Baked tender and served with our famous tropical Bula Bula BBQ sauce
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce
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DINING GUIDE
BRASILITO
Main corner, Brasilito Hours Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight Phone: +506 4702-0826 costarica@ lucysretiredsurfers.com LucysCostaRica Specialties Only for the brave: Our infamous scorpion shot
Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: Coastal Cuisine Beachfront restaurant and bar serving unique coastal fusion dishes and cocktails featuring the freshest ingredients in Guanacaste! Lucy’s is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. With locations in some of the most tubular spots around the world (New Orleans, Key West, Costa Rica and Aruba), we know how to have a good time. Let the sea breeze and sound of the waves remind you that when you’re here you’re always on vacation. At Lucy’s we’re serious about our grub – we’ve got all your classic favorites like burgers and nachos, as well as our signature coastal bites with a touch of Pacific flair. Our one-of-a-kind drinks are the perfect way to cool down after a long day at the beach, and we keep them flowing all day (and night!) long. Lucy's’ daily food & drink specials are boat-to-table and will give you something new to try every day, and with live music, a radical bar scene, and six large-screen TVs, Lucy’s is Guanacaste's hottest new bar and restaurant!
MENU SELECTIONS Shaka Ceviche
c5,500
The Juicy Lucy
Avocado Fritas
c5,500
Bacon Brie Chicken Sandwich
Cheese Quesadilla
c5,000
Tsunami Tuna Salad
Serious Nachos
c6,700
Blackened Fish Tacos c6,000
Delicious fresh local fish and shrimp in a citrus marinade topped with avocado
Beer-battered avocado slices served with black bean salsa and homemade ranch
Flour tortilla overflowing with melted cheese, served with pico and guacamole
Fully loaded nachos topped with beans, pico, sour cream, and our rockin’ guac
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c7,500
Our famous 8 oz. burger served on a brioche bun with Lucy’s special sauce
Grilled marinated chicken breast topped with bacon, brie, tomato, and spinach
c6,500
Freshly seared yellowfin served over spring mix with fresh fruit and feta
Blackened local fish topped with mangopineapple slaw and avocado crema
Pao Pao Shrimp Tacos c6,500 Fried or grilled shrimp tossed in a sassy pao pao sauce, topped with cabbage slaw
Flank Steak Tacos
c6,500
Marinated flank steak topped with jalapeño chimichurri and queso fresco
Whole Red Snapper Casado c8,000 Served with island rice, black beans, and a side salad
N’awlins Surf n’ Turf c10,000 Marinated flank steak served with head-on Cajun BBQ shrimp and roasted potatoes
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Nasu: Creative Tropical Cuisine Welcome to Nasu Restaurant, tropical creative cuisine. Join us oceanside, where the freshest catch is prepared every day by our acclaimed chef. Enjoy the culinary treasures of Costa Rica, where tradition and innovation meet.
Hours Daily, 6:30am-9:30pm
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2654-4671, 2654-5340
Panzanella Salad
$13
Antipasto di mare
$24
Lettuce, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, artisan bread, jumbo shrimp in vinaigrette
Specialties Fresh seafood and pasta
For two: octopus, crab, shrimp, clams, salmon, sea bass, tuna with vegetables
Mediterranean Snack
$14
For two: falafel, tzatziki, tomato pesto, baba ghanoush, feta cheese, pita bread
Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Daily, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm
$14
Grilled Tenderloin
$24
Roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables and a mushroom sauce
Chicken Parmigiana
$12
Lightly breaded chicken, cherry tomatoes, arugula, Parmesan crisps, lime dressed
The Beach House: Beachfront Dining Private residence on the beach transformed into a quaint restaurant and bar, renowned for its fresh seafood. Come and enjoy incredible food and awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2654-6203 Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view
Ravioli della nonna
Homemade ravioli stuffed with lobster and mashed cauliflower, bathed in a champagne sauce with capers and tomatoes
Grilled Scallops
c5000
Onion Rings
c3500
Catch of the Day
c9000
Jambalaya
c7500
Pesto Tuna Sandwich
c7000
Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice
Angus Tenderloin
c11000
Grilled to perfection with vegetables & rosemary potatoes
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Thick-cut battered with a subtle blend of spices, served with garlic mayo and rosada sauce
Sausage, shrimp & chicken with onions, tomatoes & peppers in Cajun sauce over rice or linguini Pesto seared tuna on fresh bread served with lettuce, tomato & pesto aioli
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SURFSIDE / POTRERO
1 km east of the Banco Nacional in Flamingo
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
LAS CATALINAS
At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu
Sentido Norte: Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.
MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats
$18
Casa Chameleon Burger
French Toast
$12
Ceviche $14
Knife & Fork Tortillas
$14
With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce
With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream
$19
Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"
Grilled Chicken Wrap
$12
ChicharrĂłn or vegan huevos rancheros
Vegan Omelettes
Vegan Bowl
$6
$10
Octopus & Mussels
$29
Grilled Skirt Steak
$30
Fresh Tuna Poke
$24
Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato
Octopus and mussels wok-sauteed in garlic butter and white wine
With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli
With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion
Guacamole and Salsa
$19
Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans
Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries
Raw tuna, mango, avocado
Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change
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Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday Phone: 8532-8613
Vaca Loka
Italian Restaurant True Italian cuisine. Pasta like you are in Roma! Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. Buon appetito!
Specialties Pizza, pasta, meat, fish
Che Sirloin Steak House & Grill
Pueblito Sur #10, Las Palmas, Che Sirloin Steak House & Grill Playas del Coco is a meat lover’s heaven. Located steps from the beach in a tranquil Hours garden setting with indoor and Lunch/Dinner outdoor seating. 11:00-14:30 and 17:00-21:00 Closed Wednesday Specialties Prime Cut Steaks, Gourmet Phone: 8467-7664 Hamburgers, Brunch chesirloin@gmail.com
MENU SELECTIONS House Lasagna
MENU SELECTIONS c6.500
Ribeye c6.500
Ribeye Steak
Served with salad or french fries
Animal Burger With chorizo, grilled pineapple, fried egg & bacon
Homemade Cheesecake With dulce de leche
Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino, Playas del Coco Hours Mon-Thu, 11am till late Fri-Sun, 9am till late Phone: 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com Specialties Smoked BBQ Microbrewery Gourmet bar bites Sports bar Live music Private parties
COCONUTZ BAR & GRILL: Sports Bar Coconutz is your neighborhood sports bar and microbrewery in an exotic tropical setting, complete with gorgeous local hardwood, trees growing through the floor, license plates from all over the world, surfboards hanging from the rooftop, and of course ... our famous swing set! We feature the best tropical drink selection in the area, as well as our on-premise brewed Angry Goats beers on tap. Come visit the premier sports bar in Playas Del Coco.
MENU SELECTIONS Porky Piñas
Walking Taco
Smokey Shrimp Poppers
Chicken & Waffle Burger
Memphis Ribs
Al Pastor Pizza
Pineapple bites wrapped in bacon, topped with teriyaki and sesame seeds Fresh jumbo shrimp, sliced jalapeño and cream cheese, wrapped in bacon and smoked Half rack or whole rack, with choice of two sides
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Shredded chicken or beef, cheese, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream, fried tostada, grilled in tortilla Buttermilk fried chicken with waffle bun, American cheese, heat and sweet sauce Adobe smoked pork, pineapple salsa, local fresh cheese, house mole sauce
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PLAYAS DEL COCO
FLAMINGO
Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero
PLAYAS DEL COCO
DINING GUIDE
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