Howler Magazine Costa Rica - July/August 2019 by Howler Media Holding, Inc.

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Sea Level to the Highest Peak One Local Man's Mount Everest Quest

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EDITORIAL

Trees Are Life:

I love trees and so does Costa Rica.

id-May begins the green season here in Costa Rica. It is probably most noticeable in the northwest part of Guanacaste, which is known for being the driest area of the country overall. This is one of the most beautiful times of the year. With the first signs of humidity in the air, the foliage starts to pop. The change is seemingly instant. Within a couple days of first spotting hints of green on the brown limbs and brush, leaves are unfolding on their branches into full cover. July and August tend to dry a little, but the green foliage remains in anticipation of the usually wettest months of September through November. It’s a wonderful time of the year to travel. I love trees and so does Costa Rica. They not only help rid our world of carbon dioxide but also provide shade, homes for many birds and animals, and eventually wood for products that we use. Costa Rica has reforested. This new growth represents life, and here life abounds and is valued. Costa Rica protects its

trees as it does many natural resources. The country’s Ministry of the Environment, known as MINAE, is charged with the important responsibility of forest conservation. It is illegal to just start clearing trees from land. Some developers see this as a hindrance to expansion. But the reality is that it is positive and progressive in actually making the land more valuable. This is consistent with environmental protection in Costa Rica being very advanced compared to many other places in the world. Tree conservation and reforestation are encouraged through the government’s provision of environmental grants to participating landowners. After devastating losses of forests in previous decades of the 20th century, the country’s reforestation efforts have been very successful. It is wonderful to drive along and look out over the vast forested areas, just imagining what they harbor in the way of wildlife and unexplored frontiers. Another promising initiative involves carbon offsets in the form of protected reserves and forests in Costa Rica, being sold as shares to companies. These offset commitments are an assurance that these parcels of treed land will never be developed. It’s one response to the critical need to replace the

negative output of carbon produced globally in the form of positive carbon credits. These carbon offsets have been one of the driving forces in Costa Rica’s forest conservation measures. Many groups recognize the need and are getting involved. In addition to the reforestation benefits, Costa Rica’s efforts are taking a high profile on the world stage. And it's the right thing to do. While Costa Rica’s progress towards its carbon neutrality goal has been widely publicized lately, many do not realize this plan was implemented in 1997 before it was popular. Such an important achievement only augments this country’s status as a top tourist destination. Costa Rica consistently ranks in the top five ecologically conscious countries in the world. In your travels, take a moment to look at the vast green landscape around you. Let your imagination run deep into the forests, where the trees provide life in so many wonderful forms.

John B. Quam

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HOWLER T r o o p

riter / photographer Tom Schultz describes “My Favorite Soda” in this magazine (page 18) as a hybrid of birding story, travelogue, history piece and restaurant review. Tom’s enthusiasm in sharing his wideranging knowledge and experience with Howler readers has made him one of our most versatile and prolific contributors. In addition to regular articles about travel and lifestyle topics, Tom’s work was featured in the May and June 2019 cover stories, respectively: “Los Quetzales National Park a Costa Rican Masterpiece “ and “Life in the Ring of Fire.”

Tom Schultz. Tom's childhood dream of becoming the next Jacques Cousteau was derailed by an introductory computer course that instead lead him to a 30-year career in the software industry. The lifelong photo enthusiast has since retired and relocated to Costa Rica, where he and his wife, Shelley, are reforesting a 35-acre finca at their Puriscal home The rest of their time is spent on global quests pursuing a shared passion for birding, solar eclipses and ballroom dance competitions. Contact Tom at fincadostom@gmail.com

WRITERS Sylvia Barreto Benites. Owner of Spanish for Expats, a tutoring and translation service. spanishforexpats23@gmail.com Joanna Blanco. An integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five inter-connected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet. Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New York-raised librarian, passionate book and surf lover. Gina Conejo. W Insider; she differentiates and elevates the guest experience at W Costa Rica Reserva Conchal. IG: @WCRINSIDER gina.conejo@whotelsworldwide.com Nick Dauk. Writer, rocker and traveler based in Orlando, Florida, seeking out stories from every corner of the globe. Nick.Dauk@yahoo.com Mary Demeter. Owner of Consider it Done, providing business consulting and virtual assistance to businesses worldwide. mdemeter.cid@gmail.com www.consideritdonetime.com

Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories. Joseph Simon. Owner of Superior SK8, Surf, Style in Tamarindo. Grew up skateboarding the streets of New York City Nicole Rangel. Freelance writer and editor. Making memories forever with her family. nicole.rangel@gmail Fabricio Riggioni. Investment Consultant at NATIVU. 8301-0663. fabricio@nativu.com Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group. Rachel Cherry White. Chases the sun from Michigan to Costa Rica with her four children and husband. She is a contributor to Fodor’s Guide to Costa Rica, Michigan HOME & Lifestyle and online. She is working on a novel. Viktorija Zenkova. Owner of Kombuchogusto. kombuchogusto@gmail.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo.

Tito Fuentes. Leader and funky bass player of Sonámbulo.

Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys. He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com

Chad Gaston. Owner of Iguana Surf in Tamarindo since 2002. In 2019, he crossed Mt. Everest off his bucket list of world’s highest peaks to conquer.

Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies and other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com

Jerry Hirsch. Originally from New York and now lives in Guanacaste, married to a Costa Rican artist. Enthusiastic surfer and retired businessman.

Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves". Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com

Tony Roberts. Lifelong surfer, skater, artist, musician, photographer and filmmaker. Go-to guy for tourist surfers in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Panama and the Caribbean with his company Real Surf Trips. tr@tonyrobertsphoto.com or realsurftrips.com

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July / August 2019 Vol. 24 No. 7 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam C r e at i v e D i r e c t o r Martin Svoboda BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner John D. Lane - Director of Business Development E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover Photo: Chad Gaston Debbie Bride - Design Consultant M. Alauddin - Print Specialist O p e r at i o n s Nikki Durling - Office Manager Sales Terry Carlile - Sales Consultant Eugenia Bravo - Spanish Language Sales Consultant C o n ta c t

John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Howler Magazine Costa Rica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.

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HOWLER

CO N T E N T S

Mt. Everest Quest Cover Story

Up Front

4 - Editorial 6 - Contributors and Howler Troop 10 - Community Services 12 - Cover Story: Trek from Tamarindo to Everest

18 Travel & Adventure 18 - Featured Locale: Cinchona — Many Reasons to Go 22 - Featured Adventure: Bijagua Ranas a Sloth Haven 24 - Creature Feature: Sloths Have Two or Three Toes 26 - Cool Places: Monteverde Ecological Sanctuary

30 Surfing Costa Rica & SK8

30 - Surfing CR: Surf Events 31 - July Tide, Sun & Moon Chart 32 - August Tide, Sun & Moon Chart 33 - Sk8 CR 34 - Surf Profile: Alex Castro 36 - Costa Rica Surf Trek: Road and Swell Point South 38 - Insider’s Tips: Surf 101 — Beginners Hit the Waves

Bijuagua Ranas Featured Adventure

40 ACE - Arts Culture Entertainment

40 - ACE Feature: National Theater of Costa Rica 42 - Urban Tourism: Enjoy Old and New in Escazú 44 - Spotlight: Sonámbulo 46 - Bookshelf & Beyond: Medicinal Plants of Costa Rica

48 Pura Vida - Living Costa Rica

48 - Wellness: Kombucha 50 - Eat Well: Chew on Grandma’s Good Advice 52 - Spanish: Don't be Afraid to Falter 54 - Fashion Flash: Curvy Fashion

Music Spotlight

Kombucha Wellness

44 48

CR BIZ

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t MAga zine and Inves tmen Esta te, Busin ess Cost a Rica Real

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Three Restaurants at W Costa Rica – Reserva Conchal Open to the Public

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eeking help during an emergency in Costa Rica is not always as simple as it may seem. The easy part is knowing you can call 911. But for many, the difficult part is not being prepared if the agent who answers does not speak English. Even if you know some Spanish, remembering it will be a challenge if you are in shock. Having these details ready beforehand could make a critical difference in ensuring your situation is clearly understood and help arrives as soon as possible.

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Know your phone number and directions to your home / current location in Spanish. Write this information down — making sure to spell out the numbers in words — and keep it handy or on your phone.

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Know your geographic location. Costa Rica’s 911 operators are based in San José so they have no idea where you are. The operator will ask you which region / province you are in, which canton (county) and which town. This information will be fed into the operator’s own computer to access the nearest local police and fire department.

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Know your emergency. Take a moment to formulate it in Spanish. Punch the English words into a translating app and write down the words and phrases. Include any other pertinent information you can think of before you call 911.

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EMERGENCY VOCABULARY Help — Auxilio / ayuda I need help — Necesito ayuda I have an emergency — Tengo una emergencia I need a doctor — Necesito un medico Car accident — Un accidente de automovil Police — Policia Firemen — Bomberos Hospital — Hospital Emergency — Emergencia Ambulance — Ambulancia A heart attack — Un infarto A fall — Una caida A fire — Un incendio A robbery — Una asalto A police report — Denuncia Drowned — Ahogado I lost my passport — Perdi mi pasaporte My passport was stolen — Me robaron el pasaporte I am lost — Estoy perdido/a A bite — Una mordida A snake bite — Picadura de serpiente Anti-venom — Antiofidico

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Enduring Mount Everest

One Local’s Quest to Scale the Summit

by Nick Dauk

magine scaling the highest mountain in the world only to wait in line to reach the summit. Even for an experienced climber like Tamarindo’s Chad Gaston, this was more than an inconvenience — it was a life or death scenario. “There was not one moment from the time I started climbing ‘til I got back that I was not constantly calculating the odds of survival,” he revealed during a Howler interview in early June, just days after returning home to Costa Rica.

Intensive preparations

Jutting over 29,000 ft. into the air, nature’s raw power creates deadly conditions that only those who have experienced Mount Everest will ever truly comprehend. Reaching the tip of this Himalayan peak is far from a simple jaunt up the mountain during a weekend trip. Chad spent a total of eight weeks in the frigid climate acclimating to the altitude, honing his skills and preparing for the grueling push to the top. “Over the last four years, I have built-up my mountaineering experience, practiced emergency scenarios, and trained my body both physically and mentally.” Since 2015, Chad has successfully climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Carstensz Pyramid, Mt. Rainier and Aconcagua. His trip up Alaska’s Denali mountain was cut short by a nine-day storm that left them stranded at 14,000 ft. Mt. Everest marks his fifth climb in nearly as many years.

Chad taking a selfie at the top of Everest

Undeterred by risk

Although conquering these highest peaks on earth is a relatively new endeavor, Chad is no stranger to a lifestyle full of adventure and risk. During his first visit to Costa Rica while in college, he was presented with a unique opportunity — to own and operate a surf shop in Tamarindo. At only 22 years old, Chad completed his degree and immediately moved to the then-relatively undeveloped Guanacaste coastal town. Most

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Chad representing Costa Rica and his companies at Camp 2

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COVER STORY

Yak Ranch in Pheriche All photos by or courtesy of Chad Gaston

One of Arenal Volcano's spectacular eruptions in modern times.

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COVER STORY Chad with five of the elite Sherpa team members who fixed the ropes to Everest’s peak — all very strong climbers

All photos by or courtesy of Chad Gaston

‘I remember just letting it all go when I got to my tent … relief I had made it and grief for those who had not.’ 14

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would consider this one of the riskiest decisions a young man could make, especially given his lack of Costa Rican contacts and inability to speak Spanish. Despite the challenges, Chad has started multiple successful businesses around Tamarindo over the last 17 years. He considers Costa Rica his adopted home from which he explores the vistas of the world. Adventure, risk — these concepts are stitched into Chad's lifestyle and turned an adolescent American into an awe-inspiring explorer. Mount Everest is no walk in the park. Preparing for such a journey requires much more than physical stamina and mental fortitude. Avalanches, triple-digit wind speeds and negative temperatures low enough to give bare skin frostbite in less than a minute — these hazards only increase as climbers trudge farther into The Death Zone. At elevations higher than 26,000 ft., the body can’t survive with such limited oxygen levels. Without sufficient oxygen, climbers begin to faint and cells begin to die. No, you need more than strength and spirit to conquer the revered Nepali Sagarmatha — you need all the help you can get. Thankfully, Chad wasn’t alone in his journey.

Cross-cultural connectedness

“Our team was comprised of several different cultures,” Chad says, detailing the team of four women and six other men making the climb alongside expert guides and local Sherpas. “By the time it was all over, we were more than a

team. We were a family.” The four women were of Middle Eastern descent, proudly representing Saudi Arabia, Oman and Lebanon (the two Lebanese climbers became the first of their country to summit Everest). These pioneers were overcoming more than a mountain; they were becoming heroes to young women throughout the Middle East. Every climber has a story. Unfortunately for some, their story ends before the climb is complete. During the ascent, three of Chad’s male teammates had to end their journey due to altitude sickness and injury. “I was sad, as I wanted all of our team to succeed,” he said. “I was just thankful they were all able to get down and get care quickly.”

Sobering memorials

Chad would soon discover, not everyone is lucky enough to make the trip back down the mountain. At roughly 4,000 ft. sits the Pheriche Valley. where shrines memorialize the climbers who did not survive their expedition. Some pass due to injury or illness on the way up while many others succumb to The Death Zone on their descent. “It was a very sobering feeling,” Chad recalled. “Most of the people who had shrines were very skilled and experienced climbers. All of them set out with the same goals and dreams I had. I realized I needed to be very prepared as well as very lucky.” Though Chad and the remaining members howlermag.com

Chad crossing a ladder bridge in the Khumbu Icefall

Steps kicked into the Lhotse face above Camp 3 Turrialba is one of Costa Ricaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s active volcanoes.

Congestion of climbers waiting to climb the Hillary step on the ridge just below the summit

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Left: Three yearold Nepalese girl wishing Chad “nameste” Right: Shrine to Scott Fischer, owner of Mountain Madness, who died during a blizzard on May 11, 1996, the third-worst day in history for Everest climbers

Sherpa carrying supplies from Lukla to Namche

of his team successfully reached the top of the world and survived the trip back down, he did come face to face with the cold reality that every climber fears. As Chad solemnly trekked past men and women laying lifeless in the snow, an uneasy feeling started to settle in. “This dream of mine was quickly becoming a nightmare,” he admitted. “Not only did I have to pass over these fellow climbers again, I was going to have to get past the hundreds of climbers who were making their bid for the summit.”

Hazards in the balance

Crossing a large crevasse on the way to Camp 2

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Chad made it to the peak and back down to camp, but not without taking measured risks. Every breath counts in The Death Zone. The long line of climbers could delay his ascent and deplete his oxygen tanks. Despite the immense risk of falling thousands of feet into certain death, he unclipped from his safety line and scaled the frozen south face of Everest’s peak via ice axe. At 26,500 ft., he continued his ascent in pitch black darkness during a snowstorm. “I assessed my personal abilities and knew I could make the climb,” he said. “I also had to think about if I didn’t, and continued slowly, it might take too long to get back down and I

could run out of oxygen.” Slow and steady was safer, yet he risked oxygen depletion. Urgency increased the risk of falling or succumbing to exhaustion, but if he moved fast enough his oxygen reserves should last until his descent into camp. After conquering the climb and standing atop the highest point on the planet, Chad then had to move against the flow of traffic and make it safely down to camp. Chad stayed unclipped as he made his way back down the nearly vertical face of the Hillary Step. Exhausted and dehydrated, he collapsed. His oxygen tank was virtually empty. Thankfully, his Sherpa was there to replenish the supply. With a packet of mementoes from his loved ones in hand, Chad got to his feet and continued downward for 13 more hours until he reached camp. More fallen climbers lay frozen on his path.

Relief and grief

“I admit, I had to bury it deep inside and try to focus on the next step and on the next breath. I knew panic and fear were not going to help. But seeing so much death was overwhelming and I remember just letting it all go when I got to my tent … relief I had made it and grief for those who had not.” howlermag.com

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Adventure has a price and every climber who attempts this journey understands that The Death Zone is unforgiving. But adventure also has a reward for those who brave the risks. For Chad, it was the opportunity to see the raw, untouched beauty of nature. “In the mountains, you see no roads, buildings, powerlines. Nature as God intended,” he reflected. “I find the peace and tranquility of the frozen landscape to look so clean, so fresh. The pure white snow and deep blue ice are breathtaking.”

Life-changing impact

Chad’s two-month challenge on Mount Everest ended in triumph and he’s now safe at home in Costa Rica. The profound impact of his experience has shaped the way he sees the world. The people of Everest’s rugged and remote Khumbu Valley region, for example, left a lasting impression on him. Their homes do not include modern conveniences like reliable electricity or indoor plumbing. They carry 100-lb. loads on their backs at elevations of 17,000 ft. They live hard lives by any standard, and yet, they are as

SchantzStudio.com happy, content and generous as can be. “We take so much for granted in the modern world,” Chad commented. “We have all of the ‘conveniences’ and ‘instant gratification’. They go about their lives without any of it and they are truly happy! It’s a hard life but they seem to enjoy it.” Climbing Mount Everest is a challenge unlike any other. Some of the most experienced and skilled mountaineers cannot complete the task. There is no guarantee of a successful summit, only the certainty that each climber who succeeds will return forever changed for better and worse. For Chad, it’s all part of the adventure — a price he’s willing to pay to obtain a reward only few will ever possess. Ever the adventurer, he’s already preparing for his next life-changing experience. “I will continue to climb and I want to finish the Seven Summits. Four of my Everest teammates and I are already planning our 2020 expedition to Denali. But the next great adventure I hope to tackle is fatherhood. [Fiance] Tracy and I plan to marry soon and we hope to start a family.” All photos by or courtesy of Chad Gaston

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My Favorite Soda in CR More Than Just Great Food

Story and photos by Tom Schultz

ne of the ways to experience the real Costa Rica is to dine in a “soda,” Tico slang for a small restaurant or diner. The etymology of this seemingly Spanglish name is unclear. Many believe it is derived from fuente de soda (soda fountains), popularized in North America from the 1920s to 1950s. Costa Rican sodas are typically small, locally owned and operated eateries where there is no menu, or at best merely a list of items scrawled on a chalkboard. What you can count on is tipico (typical) fare, a great way to savor the local scene and cuisine. (Learn more about sodas in the March 2019 issue of Howler.) There are literally thousands of sodas in Costa Rica, practically one on every corner. That means finding the “best” one is purely subjective, but here’s my personal favorite: Soda y Mirador Cinchona, also known as Colibri Cafe. It has the perfect combination of history, local culture, scenery, nature, and what I think is the best tortilla con queso in the country. But I am getting ahead of myself. Let's start at the beginning.

Your visit to this iconic eatery will make you understand why it was rebuilt on the same location.

Disaster strikes

On January 8, 2009 at 1:21 pm, a magnitude 6.1 earthquake occurred directly under and near the La Paz Waterfall and small town of Cinchona. The earthquake instantly took at least 34 lives, left 64 people missing and injured 91. Most of the fatalities resulted from a landslide near the La Paz Waterfall, where 452 people — including 369 tourists — had to be evacuated by helicopters. Cinchona was devastated: every

building was heavily damaged and almost 1,300 people were displaced. In addition, roads and bridges were destroyed, notably the scenic wooden bridge at the bottom of the La Paz waterfall, replaced by today’s lessthan-scenic Bailey Bridge. This earthquake is still considered one of the biggest disasters in Costa Rica’s history.

Risen from the ruins

The large, two-story Cinchona soda was already well known in 2009. It was totally destroyed in the quake and ensuing landslides when more than 2,000 aftershocks were registered. Unlike the town itself, now called Nuevo Cinchona, which was relocated and rebuilt a few kilometers away at Cariblanco de Sarapiquí, Alajuela, the soda’s landmark roots are more firmly embedded than ever. The family owners opted to rebuild their popular dining spot on the same steep slope that remained under the rubble, with the new soda a tad more rustic and smaller than the original. So if plucky stubbornness and resilience are what it takes to get you there, your visit to this iconic eatery will make you understand why it was rebuilt on the same location. Take route 126 north from the Central Valley, winding down past the Peace Lodge and La Paz Waterfall Gardens. Cross the bridge at the bottom of the falls and drive up the other side. The unassuming soda will be on your right. If it’s not a busy day, you can park right in front, but otherwise be prepared

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

for tourist vans and buses. As you walk in, a small souvenir area on your right also contains photographs from the earthquake, while the kitchen is on your left. Straight ahead you will see tables and the two main reasons for coming to this soda: the waterfall and the birds! A key reason for not relocating the Soda y Mirador Cinchona may now be obvious: it is the perfect mirador — viewing location — for the San Fernando Waterfall. Plunging over 70 meters (almost 250 feet), it empties out of the Barva Volcano at Braulio Carrillo National Park into the steep gorge cut by its own outflow and the La Paz Waterfall. It’s an exquisite place to sit, drink coffee and enjoy the beauty.

Birding mecca

The second important reason for retaining the soda’s original building site relates to its alternate name, Colibri Cafe. Colibri is Spanish for “hummingbird,” and this eatery is renowned for offering an extraordinarily easy and rewarding bird-watching experience. Fruit feeders and hummingbird feeders attract perhaps the most amazing assemblage of birds in any one spot this small, anywhere in Costa Rica if not Latin America. It’s a mecca that birding and nature tour groups in the vicinity should never miss. Hummingbirds of almost countless varieties dazzle you as they work the flowers and feeders: from the tiny green thorntails to the country’s largest hummingbird, the violet sabrewing, they will likely appear. So too is it common to see rare and endemic hummingbirds

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here, and other species on many a birder’s “lifer” list. Toucans, toucanets and barbets — stunningly beautiful creatures that are typically hard to find — flock around you. Strikingly colorful tanagers, almost too numerous in species to count, squawk at each other by the fruit feeders. Even raptors like the beautiful white hawk seem to know everyone is watching as they soar by the overlook. Popularity has prompted the soda owners to charge for use of the bathrooms, and a photography fee if you are not there to eat. That is understandable given the number of visitors there solely for the view. But do stay and eat — it’s the last best reason for going to Soda y Mirador Cinchona!

Fabulous food

The menu is on the wall, but recently table menus have become available too. Everything is tipico, although you can get omelettes for breakfast. All the food is cooked a la lena, on wood-powered stoves. Coffee is made one cup at a time with the classic Costa Rican “sock” (chorreador) coffee maker. All the food is good, but one menu item stands out above the rest — the tortilla con queso. As a vegetarian, I am usually limited in the selections to order at typical sodas, and gallo pinto can only be eaten so many times. Then a Costa Rican friend told me to order the tortilla con queso at the Colibri Cafe. He rated it the best in the country. Once I tried it, I totally agreed. But if you want one for breakfast, get there early before they run out. On our last recent trip, I got the last one of the morning! So, for the fascinating history, stunning nature, spectacular birds and fabulous food, do yourself a favor and make a day trip to Cinchona. You’ll enjoy time well spent sitting, sipping coffee, indulging in a natilla-covered tortilla con queso, soaking in the beauty of the falls, and delighting in the wonderful floor show the colorful birds put on for you. Maybe you’ll leave in agreement that it’s your favorite soda in the country.

Photo: Jenn Parker

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Bijagua Ranas

FEATURED ADVENTURE

Hidden Sloth Island in a Small Town

by Jenn Parker

The sloths are not fed or handled, but simply thriving in the treetops all around the property. 22

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arly last November while I was exploring a mangrove forest, my guide told me about a place where he had seen more sloths in one small area than anywhere else he had ever visited in Costa Rica. Coming from someone who has been a nature guide his entire adult life, this bold statement sparked my curiosity. During my nine years living in Guanacaste, I had only seen a sloth on two occasions â&#x20AC;&#x201D; each time when I was far from home and far from the actual sloth. So two weeks after the guide shared his insight, a friend and I set off on a day mission to find this sloth haven. Bijagua Ranas is a privately owned property in the town of Bijagua, just north between the provinces of Alajuela and Guanacaste. It is also the gateway town to Rio Celeste and howlermag.com

Photo: Jenn Parker

Where is it?

Photo: Jenn Parker

Photo: Jenn Parker All photos not labeled courtesy of Bijagua Ranas

Tenorio National Park. The family finca is bordered on both sides by a river, which makes it seem like a little island. Guided tours through a groomed looped trail and a beautiful garden provide an extraordinary opportunity to see both two-toed and three-toed sloths, along with a delightful variety of other native flora and fauna. The sloths at Bijagua Ranas are not fed or handled, but simply thriving in the treetops all around the property. During our leisurely hour-long walk, I counted 15 sloths. For the most part, they were spaced at distances apart from one another.

However, I came across one giant tree on the very edge of the property where three sloths were napping up in the canopy. This protected cluster of forest appears to be not only abundant with the trees that sloths like to eat from but also free from the threat of further human development, habitat destruction, motorized traffic and street dogs. After my very slothy experience, I thought to myself, they really should have named this enchanted place Bijagua Perezosos, since you definitely see more sloths than frogs (ranas in Spanish)!

However, Bijagua Ranas is also home to blue morpho butterflies, rainbow-colored hummingbirds, red-eyed tree frogs, bats and a colorful assortment of other birds and insects. From the observation tower overlooking the lush property, and with the help of binoculars or a long-lens camera, you can play a serious game of â&#x20AC;&#x153;I Spy.â&#x20AC;? While Rio Celeste and Tenorio National Park may steal attention, Bijagua Ranas should not be missed. You will surely see more sloths and other tree dwellers here than you will hiking to the Rio Celeste waterfall!

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

CREATURE FEATURE

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Sloths

What’s the difference between a two-toed and three-toed sloth? by Jenn Parker

ounds like the start of a corny joke or trick question, right? Well, aside from the obvious and not particularly funny response — one has two toes and the other has three — there are actually a lot of remarkable differences between them. But before we talk about what makes them so different, let’s look at some of their similarities. For starters, both the two-toed and three-toed sloths belong to the order Pilosa and thrive in the rainforest. These adorable and slow-moving mammals both prefer the higher reaches of the trees, where they are safe from the predators at lower heights. In fact, they only come down to the forest floor once a week to defecate. Sloths feed primarily on leaves but will also sometimes eat fruits and insects. Their digestive system can take up to a month to break down the foliage that they consume, which is one of the reasons they sleep so much. They have been known to graze the leaves of 50 different types of trees, but the cecropia tree is their absolute favorite.

Separate families

Photo: Jenn Parker

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The similarities stop there, though! The four species of three-toed sloths belong to the family Bradypodidae, and the two species of two-toed sloths belong to the family Megalonychidae. The two-toed sloth is more closely related to the extinct and gigantic ground sloth and is mainly nocturnal. It also has similarly sized arms and legs, while the three-toed sloth’s arms are longer than its back legs. The two-toed sloth has bigger eyes and a shaggier, often lighter coat. The threetoed sloth has distinctive black markings like a bandit around its eyes. Both species often look like they are smiling, though. Otherwise, the two sloth species are so different that they even have a different number of neck vertebrates and ribs. The two-toed sloth has six vertebrates while the three-toed has nine. The extra vertebrates allow the three-toed sloth to turn its head a full 270 degrees while the three-toed sloth is limited to a 90-degree rotation. Two-toed sloths have a staggering 46 ribs compared to the three-toed sloth, which only has 28. These significant differences make it impossible for the two-toed and three-toed sloths to interbreed. Costa Rica is home to both the brown-throated three-toed sloth and Hoffmann’s two-toed sloth. You can find them in the rainforests lining the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, as well as in the central cloud forests and in multiple sanctuaries and rescue centers around the country. The best advice for finding a sloth in the woods is to slow down and look up … you might just get lucky enough to see an irresistibly cute face smiling down at you.

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CREATURE FEATURE

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

The Best

Cup of Coffee

COOL PLACES

I Never Had

by Nick Dauk

'm sitting at Doña Mireya’s kitchen table in the Monteverde Ecological Sanctuary, a patch of rainforest where her family tends to a modest plantation of coffee and fruit trees. We sip on a fresh pot of Costa Rican coffee — but not their coffee. No, the small batches of coffee beans hand-picked solely by Doña Mireya and her son Chris are just now being harvested, and they won’t roast their current stock until the morning. Instead, I’m drinking another local brew, one that I’m told isn’t half as good as what’s exported. That’s the problem with good Costa Rican coffee: it doesn’t stay in Costa Rica! It’s shipped to the United States, to Europe. Tourists from around the world expect to buy amazing cups of coffee in every Costa Rican café even though they might get a better batch if they just bought it from their local grocery store. We sit with Chris, Doña Mireya and a few others in their kitchen decorated corner to corner with rooster decor. The placemats, hand towels and all other threads displaying the cockerel were knitted by Doña Mireya herself. Even the plate of

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chicken in front of me, chopped and cooked into a mound of rice, was prepared by her hand minutes before we arrived. “I feel like I’m at my grandmother’s house,” our guide José says, smiling through every bite. Our stop at the Sanctuary wasn’t on the itinerary; we wouldn’t have even stumbled across the quaint center had his boss not discovered the site and told José about it only days before. I’d been to a coffee plantation in Nicaragua a year earlier and was hesitant to come to this one, especially after we were assured that it would be an “authentic Costa Rican lunch with guided plantation tour”. It sounded generic, inauthentic and touristy — I nearly passed. What a fool I would have been.

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Where is it?

BRAULIO CARRILLO • JACÓ

Sustainable focus, meticulous process

Since 1999, Santuario Ecologico has been growing, harvesting and processing their own coffee beans with an earnest focus on environmental and social sustainability. However, cultivating organic coffee through permaculture is no easy feat. As I reach for another freshly baked tortilla, Chris shows us just how meticulous his process is. One by one, the master brewer brings out a few of his favorite tools. His eyes light up as he cradles his prized possession: a V20 reservoir that was handcrafted by a local who is praised as “the coffee guru.” Chris’s smile widens as he excitedly explains how he can change the coffee’s flavor with the most miniscule adjustments to his methodology. Factors like time, quantity and amount of ingredients are measured so acutely that a few too many beans pressed for a few too many seconds can radically change the taste. We weren’t surprised to learn that every ingredient is locally sourced but the dedication Chris has in prioritizing materials from his own farm is astonishing. Even when he travels across the country to brewing competitions, his essential resources include liters of fresh water collected from his preserve. “It just tastes better,” he says, and unsurprisingly even his competition agrees. But there’s more to the perfect cup than just water and beans. The “farm-to-table” concept has been talked about ad nauseam so Chris instead tells us about his full-circle table-to-farm approach.

Organic on all levels

“We use our own compost to fertilize all of our crops. The scraps from your lunch — even the wood used to cook the chicken — will be returned to the soil.” White-faced capuchin monkeys hang above our heads as Chris leads us down the dirt pathways that cut through the plantation. His vivid descriptions of the coffee process pour

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Ocelots, coatis, olingos, agoutis and more roam through the plantation day and night, yet there’s a sense of harmony here. Chris displays a reverence to the land; those he shares it with offer him the same respect. Of the hundreds of plants he shows us, I see only a few that were disturbed by his feral neighbors. The black guan birds watching us from above leave the coffee plants as untouched as we do.

Coffee culture redefined

Coffee is just as important to culture as it is to the past, present and future of the country.

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straight from his soul, his deep passion for the bean and the brew nearly as palpable as the red coffee beans he hands us. “I have a deal with the bats,” he says, encouraging us to pop the little stone fruits in our mouths. “They steal some of our cherries [the matured, red/purple fruit casings around the beans themselves]. When they spit out the seeds, I collect them to replant. As an animal byproduct, it makes our coffee that much more organic.” We spit the cherries into the dirt, adding a small piece of ourselves to his elaborate harvesting endeavor. Every detail of their process, from cultivation to cup, is aimed to protect the integrity of the bean. Their fertilizers meet the strictest organic codes. Their carefully crafted insecticide contains all-natural ingredients like Doña Mireya’s homemade hot sauce, a deterrent that keeps the insects away and leaves the plants unspoiled. Chris guides us through a maze of trails, each flanked by hundreds of coffee, lemon and grapefruit trees. Though he and his mother are the only two permitted to physically pick the beans, Chris employs one other set of hands to help him tend to the plantation.

Back at the sanctuary center, we say our goodbyes to Chris, Doña Mireya and the rest of the family. With Monteverde in our rearview, we make our way back to San José with a new appreciation for not the coffee itself, but for what it represents. In Costa Rica, the crop provides much more than just the cup. Coffee culture is different around the world, but in many countries, it’s measured by the consumer and marketed through the lens of the café. Few of us may know where exactly our morning fuel comes from, much less how our daily drink made it from bean to brew. Great tasting blends are readily available at every corner and a cup of amazingly prepared coffee from around the globe isn't out of arm’s reach. But in Costa Rica, it seems that “coffee culture” has a much more meaningful translation. Coffee is just as important to culture as it is to the past, present and future of the country. Like the coffee plant itself, the Costa Rican people have overcome the environmental, social and political obstacles that threatened their growth. And though not all of us will appreciate the patience, labor, and love that goes into every drop, passionate coffee growers like Chris and Doña Mireya will continue to give their all to the small stone fruits that have given so much to their family.

Photos courtesy of Monteverde Ecological Sanctuary

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

SURFIN G HOWLER

MOON PHASES

July 2 August 1 & 30 New Moon

COSTA RICA

July 9 August 7 1st Quarter

July 16 August 15 Full Moon

July 25 August 23 3rd Quarter

Real Surf Trips with Tony Gilbert Brown Lopez is the unofficial ambassador of Pura Vida from Costa Rica for the world. Wherever we go people flock to him and he takes that opportunity to proudly tell everyone about his amazing home country. We have traveled together to Hawaii, Mexico, Indonesia, Panama and El Salvador, and have scored countless cover shots, posters and video parts. Although Gilbert is a universal man, representing the One Love spirit and Rasta philosophy all over the planet, nothing gets him more stoked than to score a wave like this at his home break of Salsa Brava in Puerto Viejo de Limón, Costa Rica. Words and photo: Tony Roberts

Surfing Events July

• Fridays, July 5, 12, 19, 26 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar • Saturdays, July 6,13, 20, 27 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar • Fri-Sun, July 26-28, Playa Hermosa, 2019 Kolbi Circuito Nacional de Surf

August

• Fridays, Aug 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar • Saturdays, Aug 3,10, 17, 24, 31 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar #searchfindhowl | online

SUNRISE July 1 July 30

5:22 am 5:28 am

August 1 5:29 am August 31 5:30 am

SUNSET July 1 July 30

6:04 pm 6:02 pm

August 1 6:02 am August 31 5:48 am howlermag.com

TIDE CHART

July 1 - July 31, 2019

DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

1 Mon

1:20am 7.87 '

7:10am 1.35 '

1:33pm 9.04 '

7:50pm 0.45 '

2 Tues

2:08am 8.33 '

8:01am 0.96 '

2:21pm 9.42 '

8:37pm 0.01 '

3 Wed

2:56am 8.80 '

8:51am 0.58 '

3:09pm 9.71 '

9:24pm −0.34 '

4 Thurs

3:43am 9.21 '

9:40am 0.28 '

3:57pm 9.88 '

10:11pm −0.56 '

5 Fri

4:31am 9.52 '

10:30am 0.09 '

4:46pm 9.88 '

10:58pm −0.61 '

6 Sat

5:20am 9.69 '

11:22am 0.06 '

5:37pm 9.71 '

11:47pm −0.49 '

7 Sun

6:10am 9.71 '

12:15pm 0.16 '

6:29pm 9.39 '

8 Mon

12:38am −0.22 '

7:03am 9.60 '

1:11pm 0.39 '

7:25pm 8.96 '

9 Tues

1:31am 0.17 '

7:59am 9.39 '

2:10pm 0.66 '

8:24pm 8.52 '

10 Wed

2:28am 0.60 '

8:57am 9.15 '

3:12pm 0.92 '

9:27pm 8.13 '

11 Thurs

3:28am 1.01 '

9:58am 8.94 '

4:17pm 1.08 '

10:32pm 7.88 '

12 Fri

4:31am 1.32 '

11:00am 8.81 '

5:21pm 1.11 '

11:37pm 7.80 '

13 Sat

5:34am 1.48 '

12:00pm 8.78 '

6:22pm 1.01 '

14 Sun

12:37am 7.88 '

6:35am 1.51 '

12:55pm 8.82 '

7:17pm 0.84 '

15 Mon

1:33am 8.06 '

7:29am 1.45 '

1:47pm 8.89 '

8:06pm 0.65 '

16Tues

2:22am 8.28 '

8:19am 1.35 '

2:33pm 8.95 '

8:51pm 0.49 '

17 Wed

3:07am 8.48 '

9:04am 1.24 '

3:17pm 8.97 '

9:32pm 0.38 '

18 Thurs

3:49am 8.63 '

9:46am 1.17 '

3:58pm 8.94 '

10:10pm 0.35 '

19 Fri

4:29am 8.72 '

10:27am 1.14 '

4:38pm 8.83 '

10:47pm 0.40 '

20 Sat

5:08am 8.73 '

11:06am 1.18 '

5:17pm 8.64 '

11:24pm 0.55 '

21 Sun

5:47am 8.66 '

11:45am 1.27 '

5:56pm 8.38 '

22 Mon

12:01am 0.78 '

6:25am 8.53 '

12:26pm 1.42 '

6:36pm 8.05 '

23 Tues

12:39am 1.07 '

7:04am 8.34 '

1:07pm 1.60 '

7:19pm 7.69 '

24 Wed

1:18am 1.40 '

7:46am 8.15 '

1:52pm 1.77 '

8:04pm 7.34 '

25 Thurs

2:00am 1.71 '

8:30am 7.99 '

2:41pm 1.90 '

8:54pm 7.07 '

26 Fri

2:47am 1.96 '

9:20am 7.90 '

3:35pm 1.94 '

9:51pm 6.93 '

27 Sat

3:41am 2.10 '

10:15am 7.93 '

4:33pm 1.83 '

10:51pm 6.99 '

28 Sun

4:40am 2.07 '

11:13am 8.11 '

5:32pm 1.54 '

11:52pm 7.28 '

29 Mon

5:42am 1.84 '

12:10pm 8.44 '

6:30pm 1.10 '

30 Tues

12:49am 7.76 '

6:42am 1.43 '

1:06pm 8.88 '

7:24pm 0.56 '

31 Wed

1:43am 8.37 '

7:39am 0.90 '

1:59pm 9.35 '

8:15pm −0.00 '

2nd Anniversary July 13 & 14

Tamarindo Costa Rica Get Involved Starts 7am July 13 all day both days

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Sunset

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Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu

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TIDE CHART

SURF EAT STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT #gogrande

August 1 - August 31, 2019

DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

1 Thurs

2:34am 9.02 '

8:33am 0.35 '

2:51pm 9.77 '

9:04pm −0.49 '

1 Fri

3:23am 9.60 '

9:25am −0.12 '

3:41pm 10.06 '

9:52pm −0.83 '

3 Sat

4:12am 10.04 ' 10:15am −0.43 '

4:30pm 10.16 '

10:40pm −0.97 '

4 Sun

5:00am 10.27 ' 11:06am −0.53 '

5:20pm 10.03 '

11:28pm −0.87 '

5 Mon

5:49am 10.27 ' 11:57am −0.41 '

6:11pm 9.69 '

6 Tues

12:17am −0.55 '

6:40am 10.05 '

12:50pm −0.09 '

7:04pm 9.19 '

7 Wed

1:08am −0.05 '

7:34am 9.65 '

1:46pm 0.35 '

8:01pm 8.60 '

8 Thurs

2:02am 0.55 '

8:30am 9.16 '

2:46pm 0.83 '

9:02pm 8.04 '

9 Fri

3:02am 1.15 '

9:31am 8.70 '

3:50pm 1.21 '

10:08pm 7.63 '

10 Sat

4:06am 1.63 '

10:35am 8.36 '

4:58pm 1.41 '

11:16pm 7.45 '

11 Sun

5:15am 1.89 '

11:39am 8.20 '

6:04pm 1.39 '

12 Mon

12:21am 7.51 '

6:20am 1.92 '

12:39pm 8.22 '

7:01pm 1.23 '

HIGH TIDES

13 Tues

1:18 am 7.74 '

7:17am 1.78 '

1:31pm 8.34 '

7:51pm 0.99 '

14 Wed

2:06am 8.04 '

8:06am 1.55 '

2:17pm 8.50 '

8:33pm 0.74 '

15 Thurs

2:49am 8.34 '

8:49am 1.29 '

2:59pm 8.66 '

9:11pm 0.54 '

16 Fri

3:28am 8.61 '

9:27am 1.06 '

3:37pm 8.76 '

9:46pm 0.40 '

17 Sat

4:04am 8.80 '

10:04am 0.89 '

4:14pm 8.79 '

10:20pm 0.35 '

18 Sun

4:39am 8.90 '

10:40am 0.80 '

4:51pm 8.70 '

10:54pm 0.42 '

19 Mon

5:14am 8.89 '

11:16am 0.80 '

5:27pm 8.50 '

11:28pm 0.59 '

20 Tues

5:49am 8.78 '

11:52am 0.91 '

6:04pm 8.20 '

21 Wed

12:03am 0.85 '

6:24am 8.59 '

12:30pm 1.10 '

6:41pm 7.84 '

22 Thurs

12:39am 1.17 '

7:02am 8.35 '

1:11pm 1.34 '

7:23pm 7.46 '

23 Fri

1:18am 1.51 '

7:44am 8.09 '

1:57pm 1.58 '

8:10pm 7.13 '

24 Sat

2:05am 1.81 '

8:33am 7.87 '

2:50pm 1.75 '

9:07pm 6.91 '

25 Sun

3:00am 2.03 '

9:32am 7.76 '

3:51pm 1.78 '

10:12pm 6.92 '

26 Mon

4:05am 2.06 '

10:37am 7.84 '

4:57pm 1.58 '

11:20pm 7.22 '

27 Tues

5:15am 1.81 '

11:44am 8.15 '

6:01pm 1.15 '

28 Wed

12:23am 7.79 '

6:21am 1.31 '

12:45pm 8.64 '

6:59pm 0.55 '

29 Thurs

1:20am 8.52 '

7:21am 0.64 '

1:41pm 9.22 '

7:53pm −0.10 '

30 Fri

2:13am 9.29 '

8:16am −0.05 '

2:33pm 9.74 '

8:43pm −0.67 '

31 Sat

3:02am 9.96 '

9:08am −0.62 '

3:23pm 10.12 '

9:31pm −1.07 '

We h a v e y o u c o v e r e d . Free 2 hr

Board Rental with surf lesson

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Sunset

Happy hour

Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu

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SK8CR Left: Micah Shapiro, b/s disaster in Tamarindo's deep end. Below: Tony Roberts, f/s grab in Negra's mini square bowl, photo: Xia 3

by Joseph Simon

n this issue, we wanted to feature a couple of skate parks at popular Pacific beaches, where you could go right after surfing. Let’s start with the Oneida Skate Park in Playa Tamarindo. For those who have not visited, the park features a concrete snake run with nice two- to four-foot transitions into a fast and steep bowl with six- to seven-foot transitions. When skated properly you can pump and hold speed throughout the entire bowl. Like a long wave that lines up, grind the coping (lip) or air the vertical sections. So rad! The buzz around town has been so exciting as the Tama Park is currently under renovation and expansion. The new area offers more streetstyle skateboarding features like concrete ledges, handrails and a big ollie pyramid. Stoked! The local rippers are salivating! Just south in Playa Negra, El mutante skatepark has been revived! With several awesome contests, plus a new restaurant — Grinds — it’s happening. This park has a more open mini-ramp-style feel, all concrete, with four- to five-foot transitions. It flows so nice for the learners and us old-school guys. The local boys are bustin’ ollies, transfers and grinding the nice metal coping. Costa Rica has more parks to be highlighted, so stay tuned and go skate!

Below: Kaleb Stevens, f/s ollie in Tamarindo's deep end.

Above: Fran Vinoli f/s ollie in Negra's half pipe.

Left: Kaleb Stevens f/s ollie over the hip in Negra.

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HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33

SURFING COSTA RICA

Axel CASTRo

by Ellen Zoe Golden

SURF PROFILE

R Castro even received an international award from the Chilean presidency, proclaiming him a standout.

andall Chaves, the president of the Federacion de Surf de Costa Rica, is always boasting about the new crop of young surfers who have surpassed their professional predecessors with their higher skill levels. Axel Castro from Limón is one of these kids. To wit, Castro recently broke the record held by Costa Rica’s renowned national and international champion Carlos Muñoz by becoming the country’s youngest competitor to reach an Open final, this one at the VISSLA Pro in Avellanas in May. Muñoz accomplished his feat in 2008 when he was 15, so

11 years later, with discipline and effort, Castro made history. Axel was born in the neighborhood of Cieneguita on the Caribbean coast. With the influence of his father and uncles, the only boy among three children started surfing there at age 3, and immediately “liked to feel the wave.” While the home break became his favorite, the young man did acquire some mad skills on the nearby — and notorious — Salsa Brava and some secret spots. “My neighborhood is the cutest of all time, and even

with all the beautiful trips, I always want to return home and to my beach,” Castro said. His trips include various Costa Rica surf contests and his accomplishments there include national championships in the Under 12 and Under 14, respectively, in the Kolbi Circuito Nacional de Surf, plus lots of podium visits while participating in the Circuito Guanacaste de Surf. He has also been the Circuit champion in the Power Caribe. Outside the country, Castro’s been to Florianopolis,

Athlete: Axel Castro Sport: Surfing Age: 14 About: Power to surf with an affinity for tubes and big waves Sponsors:

Axel and his mother, Esmeralda

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Brazil for a month, training and giving three competitions a go, but his best international result was a 2nd place at the NSSA in the Explorer category in California. Training also includes slipping into tubes at Bocas del Toro in Panama. Castro even received an international award from the Chilean presidency, proclaiming him a standout with Latin American sporting promise. “When I’m not competing I can also travel, do what I want on the wave, meet new friends and learn new waves,” he said. Another pastime that Castro enjoys is working with youth in the Waves and Smiles project, led by his father, Mike, in their community. This is a surf therapy program for a group of 65 boys, creating a safe space to help them develop a sense of belonging, adapt values, obtain faith in themselves and map out their dreams. “Axel collaborates as an instructor and is a leader

among the kids,” said Castro’s dad. He uses his knowledge to support them and urges them to fight for their dreams in the face of so much adversity they face,”. At his young age, Castro already has a game plan for a lofty future: “My whole career as a competitor I have used a Cheboards. My father is a good trainer and surfer, my Uncle Caramel taught me to make tubes. I like big waves. My dream at a competitive level is to enter the CT, become a world champion, and the dates I would like to win are Pipe (Hawaii) and Bells (Australia). I should also tell you I have excellent grades in my school.” All that, and Axel Castro’s got a great start on making his dreams a reality.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

SURFING COSTA RICA

COATA RICA SURF TREK

When the Road and Swell Point South

Photo: Jerry Hirsch

by Jenn Parker

I would have waited all day for a wave like that!

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woke at 12:30, 1:30, 2:30, and finally rose at 3 a.m. with one of several alarms that I set in fiveminute intervals. Before a surf adventure, I find sleep to be sparse and nearly impossible outside of short nap-like bursts of rest. Anticipation is like a steady drip of caffeine. I was anything but tired when I walked into the kitchen to press the coffee button on. I would be joining three other guys whose names also started with the letter “J,” and with whom I had never surfed before, at a spot I have long had reservations about. A response of “no” is never in my vocabulary though when it comes to a surf adventure. Leaving Playa Grande and driving through Matapalo nearly two hours before sunrise is an adventure in and of itself. High beams, prescription glasses, and my naturally slow approach to driving saved several sleeping sheep who chose the middle of the road on the other side of a blind curve as their ideal resting place. I dodged purple and orange land crabs, toads, and an opossum on the dark narrow road before reaching Charlie’s Bar. My coffee was still too hot to drink — a good thing for that steady anticipation drip. The last message I had received late Friday afternoon included instructions for where to meet at 4 a.m. and to not be late.

Compatible adventurers

The boys rolled up at 4 a.m. on the dot. As someone who is perpetually punctual, I knew at this moment that the four of us were meant to adventure together. I hopped in their car with my board, and we were off chasing the sunrise and the south swell. We all hailed from different countries, but at various stages of our lives chose Costa Rica as our home, drawn and kept here by the waves among other things. A little less than three hours later, the four of us were standing in the beachfront backyard of a man named Cundino, following left lines running north across a river mouth and into a bay with our frothing eyes. The wind fluttered offshore, and the tide was sucked out so far you could almost walk out to the 300-meter-long wall of Amazon-brown ocean. The thought of crocodiles, bull sharks, and sewage almost instantaneously dissipated when I noticed the prestigious Blue Flag and perfect peelers. An abandoned plastic baby doll adorned the wooden sign that marked the spot where we would have our first surf of the day. I opted to sit deep and wait for the steeper set waves that sporadically passed through, since howlermag.com

Photo: Jenn Parker

Photo: Tony Roberts Photo: Jerry Hirsch

I was the only one not on a longboard. As a lone sea wolf, this is often my approach when the line-up is crowded. For three stroke-heavy hours, I only randomly caught a glimpse of the three other “J’s” catching a wave or paddling back out after a seemingly never-ending Photo: Tony Roberts ride. Sometimes it would be 10 minutes or more between sets that I could scrape into. I was not without entertainment, though. From my vantage point, I was within earshot of a highly enthusiastic Zumba class full of dancers in bright neon outfits on the beach that hugged the cliff wall to my left. With the wind blowing offshore and the music bouncing off of the rock wall, I felt like I was sitting next to the speaker. Other times I felt like I was sitting in the middle of the dancers when they would holler out some indiscriminate cheer.

Alone but not lonely

The pull of the tide was strong, even though it would be hours before the tide was high. Several times I got caught in the tendrils of the river mouth pulling me down as if it were using me to pull itself out deeper into the bay. The force of the river’s energy flowing and colliding with incoming waves was tumultuous. There were waves where I felt utterly alone but not lonely as I glided past everything and everyone. After hours apart, I was given a signal that everyone was getting out. I struggled to catch an exit wave as my arms felt like cooked noodles, my

mouth was dry as a desert, and the granola bar I ate at 5 a.m. had long been expended. The plan was to refuel first and then surf another nearby wave. The order of this plan flipped when we pulled up to the next wave, and the conditions were glassy. There is always the chance of the wind switching onshore, so when it’s offshore, you’d best just go. The surf looked small, but we figured we’d find a wave or two. What we didn’t expect was for it to jump from chest high to well overhead in a matter of half an hour or so. The first set of the latter size cleaned up the line-up in one wave. No one expected the set that came through; we were all too far inside. After recovering from the washout, I had it in my head that I absolutely had to get at least one of those set waves. I would have waited all day for a wave like that! Fortunately, I didn’t have to though. My mantra of “sit deep, get to your feet, don’t look down,” paid off quite nicely.

Photo: Tony Roberts

Timing is everything

We ate eggs and gallo pinto in exhaustion and ecstasy from the two sessions we had all enjoyed. By the time we had finished breakfast, the spot we had just surfed had gone flat; timing is everything. Collectively ambitious, we thought we’d maybe try one more session, but upon returning to the original spot, we realized that none of our bodies really wanted that. The tide was high now, and the river had swollen and burst over the banks. The paddle out would have been exponentially longer and more challenging than when we got in at low tide. Sunned out and surfed out, we got in the car and set our course north to return from whence we came, beaming from the waves we’d all caught. Photo: Tony Roberts

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37

SURFING COSTA RICA

For Beginners

My friend Todd learing to stand up on land at Matos Surf shop in Tamarindo Photo: Gina Conejo

Catching the Perfect Wave

INSIDER'S TIPS - SURF 101

My instructor, Ariel

by Gina Conejo

After exploring the surf world for a few months, I am ready to share all my insider tips with you.

Gina is the W Insider at W Costa Rica - Reserva Conchal

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eing a Costa Rican city girl from San José, not one of those Ticos who grow up on the beach or head there as often as they can, I had never surfed a day in my life until a few months ago. I enjoy traveling, lived in the Big Apple for a while and then moved to Florida. I would constantly get the typical remark, “Oh, so you are from Costa Rica … the surfing there is great!” Yet in truth, I knew nothing about it firsthand. Having recently moved near Tamarindo, one of our most famous surf towns, I took it upon myself to learn to surf like a pro — well, maybe just learn to surf for starters. Now, after exploring the surf world for a few months, I am ready to share all my insider tips with you.

Learning or instagram moment?

Now you need to ask yourself the following question: are you in it for the long run or just for a weekend vacation? For me, this is a long-term commitment. Why does this matter? Well it is simple. If you just want to get on the board and have an instagrammable moment, most instructor (plus a photographer) will do. It is relatively easy in small surf with a competent instructor to stand up on the board and have someone snap a picture. This is because they teach you how to stand up on land, then they put you on a big board — basically a surfboard barge — and push you into the wave. However, that does not mean you can surf. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about taking the cool pictures. But if you want to really learn to surf, I recommend a minimum of four

Todd and I being super stoked in the water Photo: Marcel Freitez

to eight lessons with an instructor and hundreds of solo surf sessions. Only then can you call yourself “a surfer,” and most importantly, when you have learned surf etiquette (that’s another story). A reasonable plan is to take four or five lessons to get the basics and practice reps with an instructor, then 10 to 20 solo sessions. Now you are ready for another two or three lessons to get some vital feedback as you are finally understanding waves and how to control your mind and body in them. But back to finding your instructor: Lessons can be booked at surf shops or surf camps, and the bigger surf towns like Tamarindo and Jacó have local surfers cruising the beach looking to give you a lesson. Or, you can find yourself a local friend (like me!) and get to know who's who. Since you probably don't have the time for this, don’t worry, I've done the research! For example, if the hustle and bustle of Tamarindo is a bit much, check out the neighboring community of Playa Grande, whereFrijoles Locos Surf Shop has you covered for anything you need, be it a one-off or an ongoing quest. In my case, I love the Tamarindo scene — lots of action, lots to look at and lots of options for lessons. It was the perfect spot for me to start to learn. I started at my favorite coffee shop, Pico Bistro, where "Mickey" introduced me to a true Tamarindo local and a great surfer, Ariel. I've been surfing with Ariel for some months now and although I'm still not a pro, this is what I've learned. howlermag.com

Quality counts

Many surf instructors are used to the one-time lesson for tourists who just want to feel excited about getting on a board. This isn't the way to go if you are a serious beginner One of my first days out with instructor Ariel. Photo: Abraham Berrocal looking to learn good technique. Lucky for me, Ariel not only took the time to teach me the right proud as you may be of your six-pack, to technique, but he also taught me what avoid getting all scratched up by the foam not to do and why (surf etiquette). Then I top boards, get a rash guard. Or just ask started paying attention to the dozens of your instructor to rent you one if you are other lessons going on around me, and I doing the one-off lesson. could actually distinguish the difference in If you are in it for the long-haul, you quality. will need a board. Your first board is vital, The only drawback in being focused but it won’t be your last! Get the right on technique is that board to learn it’s a slower on and it will be process. But a keeper. Don’t when you get buy one before it, you’ll get your first few it right. Pay lessons; get wet attention to and learn what the instructor you need. you choose. Playa As I said, most Grande’s will do for the Frijoles Locos one-off, but is a great place Abraham Berrocal to: Pho . if you want to to get a used head my over in ing Gett learn and learn board or a right, get in new one off the with the locals. Get someone who teaches, rack, Drew will take care of you. If you feel a local surfer. You will be stoked for a like a pro, get your custom board shaped multitude of reasons. at Cheboards, a great Tamarindo-based board shaper and surf shop! JD will take Gearing up care of you. Make sure you have the right gear. Last but not least, stay protected! Surfing does not require much, but it has to It might look funny, but apply a ton of serve the right purpose. sunblock to your face and all uncovered If you're a lady you definitely need a areas. Even on a cloudy day, Costa Rica's swimsuit made for the action. Definitely sun rays ain't no joke! Remember to be check out Howler’s January 2019 cover eco-conscious and use an ocean and story, “Sewing a different pattern on and reef-safe sunblock. Old-school sunblocks off the Waves,” for some of the leading contain chemicals harmful to ocean life. designers around. Tamarindo shoppers can find the cutest styles by national designer Andrea Pizarro at both Del Toro and Mi Tribu stores. (Insider tip: Maaji swimwear can be found at GirlFish, the hidden blue casita next to El Chiringuito.) Also Azul Profundo in the heart of Tamarindo has supercute suits too. If you are a guy, as Serious technique, seriously stoked! Photo: Abraham Berrocal

App for that

When to surf ? Lucky for you, your instructor will tell you and this is part of learning to surf. Become a surfer, don’t be a “Barney” (watch the surf classic film “North Shore”). But if you want to get ahead, continue reading Howler’s surf section and all the back issues online. But also download an app like MSW (MagicSeaWeed). It has surf cams and allows users to upload reports and photos — sort of like the Waze of waves. Beginner tips: Don’t surf big waves; stay away from them and the crowd! Your first lesson should be 60 percent on land, learning technique, stretching and paddling, and getting practice standing up on the board. Once in the waves, don’t get distracted by paddling, let your instructor push you into the wave. Focus on standing up with the right technique and foot placement on the board. That should get you started! No matter what your age or ability, it might be “go time” to get your surfing feet wet in pura vida. Surf on!

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ACE FEATURE

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

NATIONAL THEATER

Where is it?

A Great Excuse to Go Out in San José by Sylvia Barreto Benites

A renovation of the theater will see the inclusion of classrooms, rehearsal spaces, offices and a costume production workshop.

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re you looking for something to do on your next trip to San José? The National Theater of Costa Rica has an eclectic variety of music, theater and dance during July and August. Not only is it an opportunity to visit one of Costa Rica’s most important historical and important landmarks but also to celebrate the arts in Costa Rica. The National Theater is a baroque structure from Costa Rica’s coffee boom. Inaugurated in 1897, it represents a moment in history when Costa Rica thrived in supplying the world with coffee. Located next to the Plaza de la Cultura, the museum and the cafe alone are worth the visit. But it is the opportunity to experience an evening at the theater that is the real event.

Modern strides

The National Theater has made great strides in recent years to impel local artists to perform within the historic building. The Vargas Calvo chamber theater was born from a need to showcase local artists in a more intimate setting. This year an even bolder initiative was put into effect, a renovation of the theater will see the inclusion of classrooms, rehearsal spaces, offices and a costume production workshop. One of the most important attractions of the theater is the National Symphony Orchestra of Costa Rica. Each month it gives between two and four performances and the libretto changes for each one. You can check the website to see what composers are on the playbill for each performance. howlermag.com

In July 2019, the National Theater offers a mix of local theater, classical and national music. Every Tuesday at noon brings a different offering: children’s theater, traditional Costa Rican calypso, Sonsax, a saxophone quintet and the history of swing in Costa Rica. In mid-month, the chamber theater presents “Estrategas,” a play about the issues women face and “Marx ha Vuelto” (Marx has returned), a comedy about the return Karl Marx. The last two Saturdays of July feature performances of the National Symphony Orchestra. August offers a whole new lineup of concerts and performances. The first week of August, enjoy the sounds and influences of Celtic music and a modern dance composition, “Le Bom.” This month you have four chances to catch the National Symphony Orchestra.

Tour, taste and learn

You can visit the theater from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. to take a tour and learn about its rich history. The baroque foyer and cafe are publicly accessible, but to enter the theater you need to join a tour. The theater’s cafe is a delectable place to savor coffee and other tasty treats in lush surroundings. Tickets for performances can be purchased online through the National Theater’s website www.teatronacional.go.cr or at the theater itself. Prices for tickets vary according to seating. The chamber theater has a general admission price ranging from about 5,000 to 7,000 colones. The next time you are in San José, check out the National Theater and experience a different side of the city, celebrating the talent and creativity of the Costa Rican community.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41

URBAN TOURISM

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

ESCAZÚ

A Blend of Old and New

by Sylvia Barreto Benites

Officially established as a town in 1600, it was an agricultural community specializing in coffee, sugar cane and grains. 42

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t’s not hard to see why Escazú is a favored place to settle in Costa Rica for expats from North America and Europe. This suburb of San José offers many of the creature comforts that come with glistening modern buildings and expansive homes. In 2013, Costa Rica’s Ministry of Planification recognized Escazú as the country’s most socially developed canton, with high marks in education, health, internet access and citizen involvement. Looking much further back in history, Escazú has always held a noteworthy spot on the Costa Rican map. Being a traveler’s stopover and fiercely independent are among its claims to fame. The name Escazú is believed to come from the native word Itzkatzu, which roughly translates to “place of rest.“ There is no question that Escazú was indeed a rest area for weary travelers during the pre-Columbian era. They would stay the night before moving on to trade with neighboring tribes. In 1561, the

Spanish arrived and Escazú became populated by people from Galicia in Spain. Officially established as a town in 1600, it was an agricultural community specializing in coffee, sugar cane and grains.

Growth on its own terms In 1755, the townspeople were ordered to dismantle their homes and relocate to San José, as part of a capital city consolidation plan, but they refused. Escazú grew quickly after that, with a church building in 1793 and by 1825, being named an official district of Costa Rica. In more modern times, it became a favorite place for foreigners to reside, and also the home of many embassies including that of the U.S., Canada, Mexico and Germany. Escazú is also an important part of Costa Rican folklore, notably as the “city of witches.” Stories passed down through generations described how three resident witches used howlermag.com

Where is it?

Monument of the Boyero – a 210-foot long rock wall sculpture overlooking the Central Valley. The carvings depict the traditional values and life of the Escazú farmer.

their powers to both help and curse the local population. It is also one of the cantons where “mascaradas” originated, a parade of giant paper mache heads. Transcending such fanciful legendary attributes, Escazú is known for its perfect mix of tradition and innovation. Proximity to San José and the country’s busiest international airport make it a central hub, removed from the big-city noise but brimming with eateries, shopping malls and super stores. You can get your fix of a huge number of U.S. chain restaurants, as well as high-end dining spots to enjoy cuisine from around the world. Escazú’s mall and office complex is sleek and modern, and the Multiplaza mall is a favorite place for lazy Sundays or an evening dinner and a movie.

Cultural appeal For a day of culture, Escazú will not disappoint either. You can drive around and see some of the only adobe colonial houses still standing in Costa Rica. While visiting St. Michael the Archangel Church, built in 1793, you can stroll

through the gardens and view the Monument of the New Century, built in 1901. Right around the northern corner you will find the Monument of Heroes and the Josefa, a bell traditionally used to call community members to civic events. On the church’s western side is the Kiosk of San Miguel, a venue for civic and community events as well as concerts. In Escazú’s central plaza, you can visit the Monument of the Boyero, a sculpture created in conjunction with University of Costa Rica professors and students. Steeped in tradition but everevolving, Escazú is just a stone’s throw from San José, but worthy of visiting in its own right. You can mix up some serious shopping with a trip back in time: colonial stateliness intermingled with an unmistakably 21st-century urban landscape. The array of large hotel chains, as well as vacation rentals and boutique hotels, make Escazú just as much the ideal place to stay over as it was thousands of years ago. The next chance you get, stop and look around at how the old and new in Costa Rica have grown together.

Iglesia de San Rafael Arcángel

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 43

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

‘Psicotropical’ the Only Way to Describe

SPOTLIGHT

SONÁMBULO by Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

Live performances are mesmerizing, fun and hypnotic.

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hat do you get when you combine 11 musicians from Costa Rica, Cuba, Colombia and El Salvador who create a fusion sound of reggae, cumbia and funk? The members of Sonámbulo, based in San José, Costa Rica, will tell you that the result is a new style of music that they call “psicotropical” — a catchy phrase for their very infectious music. The band’s name, literally “sleepwalkers” in English, came about when the members decided that the word was a good description for their music, in that it wends through musical genres at an almost trancelike pace. The band’s first album, “A Puro Peluche,” was released in January 2009, winning the Costa Rican Association of Musical Authors (ACAM) Best Tropical Album award. Standout songs on the album include “Zona Roja,” led by the funky bass playing of Tito Fuentes, and “Jabali Montuno,” with the reggae-influenced guitar of David Cuenca. The title song, “A Puro Peluche,” has a trance beat that is hypnotic, with the excellent keyboard playing of Manu Davila, whose musical input is infused throughout the album. “Animal” is another notable original track on the album, along with “Chusma Funk,” two songs that defy conventional terms, helping to define this new, psicotropical category. Photos: Tito Fuentes

Exposure is usually a problem for any independent performer, no matter how good or popular you might be. Sonámbulo actually began as a music project 13 years ago, influenced by the street circus performers Magos del Tiempo. The music definitely has a carney, gypsy feel to it; as well as a Middle Eastern influence and jazz roots … and yes, a little rock ‘n’ roll, too. The result is truly global music. The 11 band members include three horn players and a keyboardist, electric bass player and guitarist. The five other musicians supply a wall of percussion, which often directs the sound of the band. It is fascinating to have five of these talented performers contributing vocals, adding even more layers of sounds into the mix.

Genre-jumping sound

It’s difficult to put a label on the band’s sound (other than “psicotropical”) since it embraces so many musical genres, with a myriad of tempo breaks running rampant throughout every live show and album. The band’s second album, “Psicosonorama,” was released in 2014 and promptly won the “Best Latin Fusion Artist” award that same year. Starting with the opening “Afroparce” and listening until the last notes of “Habichuela” howlermag.com

reveals a band that has matured. It seems more prone to Latin jazz riffs but ready to jump genres in the blink of an eye. Last November, the band released its third recorded project, “Domitila y su Jardin,” an EP that’s intended for launching a series of musical “chapters.” Sonámbulo’s live performances are mesmerizing, fun and hypnotic, thus allowing it to participate in many music festivals in Costa Rica, including Envision, Transitarte, FIA, Imperial, Palmares and Jungle Jam. The band’s scope has broadened, with its sound being brought

to Guatemala, Mexico and Colombia, and an invitation to play at SXSW in Austin, Texas later this year. The musicians have been gearing up all over, playing at El Sótano and Amon Solar in San Jose, the Jazz Café in Escazú and Jaulares in Poás. Their live shows capture all that words cannot, and the music is certainly danceable. It is obvious that these guys are enjoying themselves, their onstage antics and musical escapades making them worth checking out every time you get the chance. Seldom do we see an overnight success going stronger than ever after 13 years with signs of more and more fresh promise!

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

MEDICINAL PLANTS OF COSTA RICA

Guide to Home-Grown Healing BOOKSHELF & BEYOND

Large aloe field in Costa Rica

by Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

Throughout this fertile country, medicinal plants abound.

ho doesn’t savor the sweet scent of lavender? Actually, scorpions detest the fragrance of lavender and are deterred by it, which is one reason this plant is so popular in Costa Rican gardens. Traditionally, such practical applications for vegetation have been common in most cultures, with medicinal uses in particular experiencing a modern wave of interest. Botanist Ed Bernhardt has spent more than 30 years investigating Costa Rica’s abundance of home-grown healing fauna, where they thrive and how they can treat ailments. His insights were recently published in the guide book “Medicinal Plants of Costa Rica” (see next page). Some highlights are as follows.

Fertile soil everywhere Costa Rica is home to more than 100 different plants that have proven medicinal value. The country’s geographic attributes are unique: volcanically enriched soil is spread throughout several contrasting microclimates,

Tamarindo's Only New And Used BookStore 46

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in a series of elevations between two distinct oceans. The result is a cornucopia of growing conditions for plant life. Although medicinal plants abound throughout this fertile country, they are found predominantly in the tropical climate zones and elevations. Some, however, grow in more restrictive climes. The dandelion, for example, grows only in elevations above 1,000 meters in the neotropics. What most people consider a noxious weed is actually one of nature’s secret medicines. It has been used to treat gout, rheumatism, kidney, spleen and liver problems and is a mild laxative as well. The dried roots can also be used as a substitute for coffee. The dandelion plant is particularly prodigious in Monteverde and Nosara, where cultivation for marketing purposes has begun. The health benefits of ginger, chamomile and aloe vera — all prevalent in Costa Rica — have been known and practiced for millennia. But did you know that grated avocado seeds can be used as a topical ointment for many skin

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infections and rashes? Or that a tea made from dried avocado leaves is used to treat the flu, diarrhea, fever and even high blood pressure? The avocado tree grows predominantly in the northwestern (Guanacaste) area of the country. The Tarrazú area has become the biggest growers of Hass avocados in Costa Rica..

Multi-purpose tree The pink trumpet tree (roble de sabano), known as the cortez negro in Costa Rica, was considered sacred by Mayan and Incan civilizations. Over the centuries, its medicinal uses have been vast. Of the tree’s many uses, the bark and its tannins are antiseptic and antibacterial. They also appear to have tumor-reducing and anti-cancer properties. These marvels prefer to grow in the flatlands and savannas of the country. On the Caribbean side, particularly in the southern regions near Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, a plethora of medicinal plants thrive. The

gavilana plant (jackass bitters) is brewed as a tea to treat infections, fever and intestinal parasites. Equally abundant on the eastern seaboard is the dormilona or “mimosa.” Brush the leaves of this plant with your finger and they will close in on themselves, which is why they are nicknamed “the sensitive plant.” These same leaves are brewed to produce a tea that serves as a pain reliever and sleep inducer. The culinary versatility of plants such as basil and garlic has kept them on the kitchen table. But their broad-sweeping healing uses have been largely overlooked if not forgotten in modern times, swept into the category of “old wives’ tales.” As it turns out, many traditions are worth keeping. Knowing that papayas can lower your blood pressure or that hibiscus plants help alleviate menstrual cramps may not save your life. But knowing where to find them and how to apply their usages can surely help you feel a lot better.

edicinal Plants of Costa Rica,” a new guide book by botanist Ed Bernhardt, is a project the author has been working on for more than three decades. The outcome is a comprehensive source of information on more than 90 Costa Rican plants, some that can literally be found in your backyard. The book provides the genus name for each plant as well as its common names in both English and Spanish. The natural growing zones, tips for propagating and medicinal properties of each plant are detailed, as are the techniques for preparing each plant.. The reference book was recently released by Zona Tropical, a San José-based publishing company. All books in the Zona Tropical catalogue are available at The Bookstore of the Waves in Playa Tamarindo. A store copy of “Medicinal Plants of Costa Rica” is available for customers to browse its contents..

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

WELLNESS

Kombucha - Nature’s Magic Mixture by Viktorija Zenkova

The fermented elixir was known in China as ‘the tea of immortality.’

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ombucha is an ancient health drink made from tea fermented with sugar. It’s an outcome of nature’s seemingly magical fermentation process of pulling “the right” bacteria from the air and creating billions of live organisms interacting in a fruit, vegetable or herb and sugar recipe.

Rica. In this part of the world, kombucha is sometimes called the “cousin of chicha,” referring to a fermented (alcoholic) or nonfermented beverage in South or Central America usually derived from grains, maize, or fruit.

Healthy history

The fermentation process for kombucha is remarkably simple, requiring only a few physical components and at least a couple of days. Cane sugar is used instead of fruit sugar, together with black, white or green tea. The most important ingredient of all is called “SCOBY,” which stands for Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast. This is the live active

The origins of kombucha and promotion of its health benefits date back thousands of years to Asia, specifically the plantations where black, white and green teas were harvested in China, Korea and Japan. The fermented elixir was known in China as “the tea of immortality,” while the name “kombucha” has Korean roots. One legend tells of a Korean emperor who underwent a powerful healing experience after drinking this tea (cha), which had been fermented and administered by his doctor, named “Kombu.” Kombucha tea’s fame and health benefits eventually spread across Russia, where it remains a traditional drink after more than 1,000 years. Europeans have enjoyed the sparkling beverage for at least a century, and after eventually being introduced in the Americas, it has become increasingly popular over the last 20 years, including in Costa

Simple symbiotic process

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culture for fermentation, which is commonly nicknamed “the mother” or “the mushroom.” But unlike a regular forest mushroom, you cannot just go outside and pick one from the nearest field. You must borrow a little bit from someone who already has the culture. The fermentation process is promoted by feeding this live culture with tea and sugar, followed by any other recipe ingredients of choice. Allow it to ferment in a glass container covered with cloth and with good intentions! With the tea and sugar acting as food for “the mother,” the active bacteria and yeast particles work synergistically to create billions of live and beneficial bacteria known as probiotics, along with vitamins, enzymes and minerals.

Probiotic benefits

The health benefits of probiotics in fermented foods and products like kombucha are well supported in scientific studies. Notably, they are associated with

Photos courtesy of Kombuchogusto

improved digestive and gut health. The presence of “good” or “friendly” bacteria in our gut re-establishes desirable digestive flora. Kombucha is also reportedly beneficial in strengthening immunity, promoting powerful antioxidant processes, treating gastrointestinal disorders, boosting metabolism and improving mental wellbeing, among other health enhancements. In particular, kombucha is suggested for people to consume after a course of antibiotic treatment, during a weight loss diet or as a substitute for highly processed sodas, alcohol and coffee. Otherwise, thousands of people simply enjoy this refreshing health drink on a daily basis. Costa Rican regulations allow for the production and sale of kombucha for commercial purposes, classified under “Fermented Beverages” in the Business Registry. This must be done in a professional space approved by the Ministry of Health.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Chew Your Food Properly

GOOD REASONS EAT WELL

TO HEED GRANDMA’S ADVICE by Laura Méndez

´m curious about the response to my last Howler article, in the June 2019 issue: “Four Ingredients to Avoid to Regain Your Health.” For anyone who gave it a try, let me know how it went. Sometimes those changes that are tough to implement can have the most positive impact on your healths. This month’s health challenge is also about improved awareness. It’s an aspect of eating well that is so basic and taken for granted, we pay little or no regard to its importance. I’m talking about chewing your food properly.

Grandma knew best

Did you ever wonder why it was such a big deal?

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Some of you may recall your grandma telling you to slow down and eat your food with patience. Even if you obeyed her, did you ever wonder why it was such a big deal? Nowadays, this is rarely a topic of family conversation, even when we take time from our busy routines to gather together at the same table to eat. Regardless of where we eat or whether companions are present, the increasingly fast-paced lifestyle that society has adopted over the years has had an impact on our eating habits.

Besides getting less pleasure from meals when you are in a hurry, not chewing your food property has negative health consequences you might not realize. One day when pondering this, I decided to create a “chew your food properly” health challenge. This is what I wrote back then: Digestion starts in the mouth, and by doing it effectively we are going to improve our digestion. I promise that this simple thing can create a huge difference every time you eat and afterward: you are going to get full with less food, and your digestion will improve. I challenge you to chew every bite a minimum of 25 times. I suggest putting a note where you eat with the number 25 or something similar that will remind you to chew your food properly. Quick Tip: Put your fork down while you chew the food.

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Now, in this Howler article, I want to encourage you to start chewing your food properly today. I promise you will not only see a huge improvement in the effectiveness of your digestion, but will also be surprised how quickly it can be achieved.

More benefits than you think

Not convinced yet? Here are six more benefits you can receive from chewing your food properly: 1. 2. 3.

Better absorption of nutrients and energy from your food Support in maintaining a healthy weight Better exposure to saliva, containing important enzymes to break down your food 4. Beneficial for your teeth and a workout to keep your jaw in shape 5. Reduction in excess bacteria lingering in your intestines 6. Enhanced enjoyment and taste of your food

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So your health challenge for this month may be easier said than done: enjoy your food, taste it, savor it and chew it with patience. Take time to eat with no rush and connect with your food. Create your own little reminder note with the number 25 on it. Keep it visible every time that you need to slow down while eating. Let me know how it’s going. Visit my Facebook page and comment on your experience.

hello@coachlau.com

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Speaking Spanish in Public SPANISH

THE GREAT BLANKATHON by Sylvia Barreto Benites

hen it comes down to it, learning a second language is in the speaking. What you learn about grammar and syntax will make you more proficient, but you will never be bilingual until you go out there and communicate. In fact, this is the hardest part of language learning, and it has a lot more to do with perspective than with intelligence or propensity. That’s the good news about “blanking out” when you try speaking Spanish in public. Changing the way you look at the experience and then process it is way more important than conjugation. Here are some tips.

Be kind to yourself

What many language students have in common, besides the occasional blank-out, is being very hard on themselves when it

happens. Instead of laughing it off they imagine people are annoyed with them or think they are stupid. Think of it as a learning moment, not a traumatic episode. People appreciate your effort, just as they love your accent; it shows respect for local tradition and culture.

Failure is your teacher

Failing is part of the language learning process. It represents your strength to try something new. Embrace the new feeling of confidence you get tiptoeing outside your comfort zone. Through trial and error the brain gains mastery. Your tongue needs to trip over words until it learns the right formation.

Blanking is actually positive

You feel confident until someone fires that

hen first learning Spanish, make simple sentences without worrying about conjugation. This process is an important building block for eventually conjugating.

Failing is part of the language learning process. It represents your strength to try something new.

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Subject Pronouns

yo — I tu — you vos — you el — he ella — she usted — you (polite) nosotros — we ellos — they (guys) ellas — they (girls)

Verbs querer — to want poder — to be able to ser — to be estar — to be (feeling and location) vivir — to live limpiar — to clean comer — to eat tomar — to drink, to take ir — to go

Time markers

hoy — today ayer — yesterday mañana — tomorrow despues — after antes — before mas tarde — later ahora — now luego — then

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machine gun cacophony of Spanish words your way, and you forget how to say your name. Your oversaturated brain needs a moment to reboot, and whether it’s a make or break moment is up to you. Fight-or-flight panic is a natural reaction that will surely put a negative spin on the situation. Or you can laugh it off as just a hiccup … more proof that you are a badass living outside your comfort zone. Go you!

Start training your brain

One of the best anti-blanking tools is to watch Spanish language programs with subtitles. Both the subtitles and voices should be in Spanish; otherwise you are just reading English and not really learning the language. Netflix has some great Spanish language programming that allows you to listen in Spanish, and then English, to see what you grasped.

A Fresh Choice for Secondary Education

Avoid boredom and lower your expectations

Language learning should not be boring; it should be something you want to do. People typically remember more by being playful and inquisitive than through repetitive drills. Find things that interest you and change it up each day. Read a local newspaper, take a class, watch videos amd podcasts or play language games. Sing a song and learn some dance moves while you are at it. Spend at least 20 minutes each day focusing on Spanish in any way that captivates you.

Say what you can, not what you want to say

This is your new mantra each time someone speaks to you. Let’s say you are out socializing, getting the gist of a conversation and feel like joining in. What you should not do is ask your brain to translate your thoughts into Spanish, word for word, and expect it to generate a complete, intelligent spoken sentence. That is not going to happen right away. Instead, ask your brain to spit out whatever words it can. Just get it out there and keep it simple. Don’t worry about changing the verb or getting the grammar right. As you embrace the language more, and the more you also embrace your mistakes by celebrating and laughing through them, the easier it gets. I promise you will reach the point of knowing what to say as if by magic. This is not a joke! When the language clicks, it is like crossing a magical threshold.

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Curvy Fashion by Patricia Sterman

lus size women have been left out of the fashion world for years. But that had to change when the more curvy-inclusive attitudes of today’s generation opened up a big new profitable market (no pun intended). Fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from plus-size clothing, with curvy models finding their place in advertising campaigns and on catwalks. Mattel’s introduction of the curvy Barbie doll in 2016 was a key turning point for the fashion industry in catering to a previously overlooked segment of the female population who are no less style-conscious. The market is there for plus-size bathing suits, plus-size wedding dresses and plus-size lingerie. You name it, and you can find it all. The brands are listening, because they can no longer afford not to.

FASHION FLASH

If you have a curvy body type, keep these fashion tips in mind when shopping. • Choose pieces that naturally emphasize your waist, and keep your top and bottom curves equally balanced out. • Pay attention to the fit. Avoid shirts that add too much volume to your top, unless you plan to pair them with volume-enhancing pieces on the bottom. • Look for fabrics that cling to your curves. • Stick with simple colors and patterns to avoid making your curves look out of balance. Here are the top five beach outfits recommended for curvy women. 1. Kimono + high-waisted bikini 2. High-waisted shorts + bikini top 3. One-piece swimsuit + maxi-kaftan 4. Wrap dress, short or maxi 5. Button-down shirt dress I have a friend who was turning down all kinds of fun activities because she wasn't the weight she wanted to be. Today, she makes her living as a plus-size model. Same woman … new thoughts … new life. In the end, your confidence and smile is what will make you look the best.

Mattel’s introduction of the curvy Barbie doll in 2016 was a key turning point for the fashion industry. If you need any type of fashion advice or recommendation for a special event, contact

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 55

CR BIZ DIRECTORY Real Estate, Property Management

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igh-quality construction and design in a quiet secluded area … it’s all yours, within an easy 10-minute drive to the area’s beaches, and just 20 minutes from Tamarindo and Flamingo beaches.

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GM ATTORNEYS Legal Services Full service in all areas of law Tamarindo, Flamingo & Nosara Mon-Fri, 9-1, 2-5 2654-4367 / 2653-2155 info@gmattorneyscr.com

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REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT

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he best commercial corner in the Huacas area just became available! Hundreds of vehicles pass by this corner property every day on their way to Tamarindo, Flamingo, Playa Grande and to Liberia airport.

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COMMUNITY & SERVICES DIRECTORY

PACIFIC SMILE DENTAL CARE Kids & Adults - English Speaking Highly experienced staff— orthodontics, implants, endodontics, gums Near Auto Mercado, Tamarindo Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat by appt. 2653-4354 info@pacificsmilecr.com

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KOMBUCHOGUSTO Fizzy, Organic, Live Raw Fermeted Tea Kombuchogusto is locally grown superfood infusions. Find us on Social Media, local Farmers Markets, and join our community! 8597-5993 kombuchogusto@gmail.com kombuchogusto

CARIVE PRODUCTIONS Photo and Cinema High-end professional photography and cinematography based in Tamarindo. Tamarindo 6105-1069 info@cariveproductions.com www.cariveproductions.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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KOMBUCHO

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BEACH COMMUNITY CHURCH Love God, Love Others Come join us on this journey as we discover the Author of Life Brasilito, before CRIA Sun 10am-English, Sat 6pm-Sp. 8621-6273 info@ beachcommunitychurchcr.com

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COMMUNITY

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DENTAL SERVICES

BUILDING SUPPLIES

M&G DE HUACAS Marble, Granite and Quartz Custom countertop, highest quality and materials, free inspection and quote 50m east, 150m north, 75m west Huacas Community Center M-F, 7:30-5, Sat, 7:30-2 8840-3815 litomtz74@gmail.com

DENTAL SERVICES

BOOKSTORE

THE BOOKSTORE OF THE WAVES New and Used Bookstore Stamps, mail delivery, free WiFi and so much more Tamarindo 2653-2670 Alei@bookstoreofthewaves.net TheBookStoreoftheWaves

TONY ROBERTS PHOTO VIDEO Complete Photo and Video Services Shoots by appt for sports, portraiture, properties, exterior/ interior and video editing Guanacaste & all Central America (506) 8754-0798 tr@tonyrobertsphoto.com tonyrobertsphoto.com @tonyrobertsphoto @realsurftrips

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COMMUNITY & SERVICES DIRECTORY

CABO VELAS PEST CONTROL Pest Control - English Speaking Bug Busters is now Cabo Velas Pest Control with 10 years of experience El Llanito, Villarreal Mon-Fri, 7-4 8416-4860 / 8702-6807 bamboopq@yahoo.ca

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

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PEST CONTROL

SCHOOL

EDUCARTE Preschool, Primary, Secondary Private bilingual school 5km south of Huacas Mon-Fri, 8-3:30 2653-6363 info@educartecostarica.com

SOUND & BREATH

PHOTOGRAPHY 58

SHAKA MEDIA Photography Services Shaka Foods - Tamarindo 8330-5436 Shakamediainfo@gmail.com @shakamedia @ShakaMediaCR

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HOWLER

CR BIZ C osta Ri ca Real Estate , Busine ss and Inve stme nt MAga z ine

COSTA RICA Global Business Position

DINING GUIDE Page 23

Free copy July / August 2019

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Business Confidence Business Consulting â&#x20AC;˘ Social Media Management â&#x20AC;˘ Administrative Tasks

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CO N T E N T S

COSTA RICA GLOBAL POSITION Cover Story

CR BIZ

6 - Cover Story: Costa Rica's Global Business Position 8 - CR Biz 101: The Business of Seasons 10 - LegalEase: Corporation Basics - Benefits and Obligations 12 - Entrepreneur: Time Management = Wellness Management 14 - Doing Business Right - Eliminating Single-Use Plastic 16 - Investment Chat: Business Changes in Costa Rica 17 - Property Spotlight: Casa Serena in Reserva Conchal

DINING GUIDE HOWLER

6 COSTA RICA BUSINESS SEASONS CR Biz 101

at Three Restaurants rva Conchal W Costa Rica – Rese ic Open to the Publ

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21 Dining Guide

22 - Feature: W Costa Rica - Meet the Chefs

Restaurants

8 W COSTA RICA Meet the Chefs Dining Guide Feature

22 4

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22 - Reserva Conchal - Cocina de Mercado 23 - Reserva Conchal - Latitud 10° Norte 23- Reserva Conchal - Zona Azul 24 - Huacas - New York Pizzeria 24 - Huacas - Soda Guaymy 24 - Huacas - La Playita Restaurante 25 - Matapalo - Salon Victoria 25 - Playa Grande - Pots & Bowls 25 - Playa Grande - Rip Jack Inn 25 - Playa Grande - El Oasis Chill Out and Lodge 26 - Tamarindo / Langosta - El Barco Del Capitán 26 - Villarreal - Black Stallion 26 - Flamingo - Restaurante Pleamar 27 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar & Griill 27 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Banana Wind Cafe 27 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Capriccios Pizza Bistro & Cafe 28 - Surfside / Potrero - Nasu Restaurant 28 - Surfside / Potrero - The Beach House 29 - Las Catalinas - Sentido Norte

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Elevate Your Expectations

Splendor Del Pacifico, Luxury Residences Flamingo Beach, Costa Rica Perched high on a peninsula, stretching into the ocean, 360 Splendor del Pacifico is the ultimate destination for those seeking expansive coastal views, warm tropical breezes and a no-hassle getaway. Enjoy panoramic views from our rooftop terrace, ocean views from every residence and vibrant sunsets from our alluring saltwater infinity pool. Paradise awaits!

For real estate sales or rental inquiries: info@360flamingo.com Costa Rica: +506 8802 4848 US Toll Free: +1 (877) 405-4996 Contact us to learn more about financing options!

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COVER STORY

Costa Rica's Global Business Position by Mary Demeter

Companies such as IBM have aggressively expanded in Costa Rica to take advantage of the sustainable energy drive. 6

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hether you’re starting your first business or launching a new outpost for a global brand, Costa Rica provides many compelling benefits. So what makes this country so different? Primarily, it’s the ease with which foreigners may start a business while still protecting the rights of the local workforce. This includes welcoming Free Trade Zones which encourage foreign business investment by the likes of Amazon, IBM and Intel. Over the next several Howler issues, we will discuss the steps and processes that successful businesses — global and entrepreneurial — have followed to take advantage of one of the world’s leading destinations.

Recognized by the world

At the intersection of sustainability and job growth lies over 300 multinational brands taking full advantage of Costa Rica’s top 5 global ranking for new jobs creation. According to the World Bank, Costa Rica has the lowest poverty rate within Latin America and the Carribbean. In large part, this is attributed to its highly respected education system. In fact, there are 62 major universities here and more than 200 technical high schools (similar to STEM schools in the U.S. and Europe). Adding to this attractiveness of the local population, the progressive government is pursuing an initiative to create a

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World Economic Forum Global Human Index Score for Costa Rica 2017

fully bilingual workforce. The people of Costa Rica provide the foundation to tech giants, industry leaders and progressive companies. As more and more small and large brands alike are embracing eco-friendly production initiatives, Costa Rica is leading the pack in sustainability for companies based here. In fact, in 2018 the country was powered by clean energy alone for 300 days straight. Currently, 99 percent of its energy supply comes from renewable sources. Companies such as IBM have aggressively expanded in Costa Rica to take advantage of the sustainable energy drive. As recently as February, IBM announced to the World Trade Organization its intention to invest $21 million into expanding its Global Security Services Operations Center. This division, operating in Costa Rica’s America Free Trade Zone, monitors security events for clients stretching into some 130 countries. IBM is just one of the high-tech businesses committed to using sustainable resources that has found a home in this bio-diverse country.

Impressive Suppor t

One of the keys for companies bringing their investment dollars to the land of pura vida is the availability of support. The Costa Rican Investment Promotion Agency (CINDE) is a private, non-profit, non-political organization. Declared of public interest in 1984, it is responsible for the attraction of Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) into Costa Rica. Better yet, all of the agency’s services are free of charge. Companies such as Procter & Gamble, Neustar, Inc., Equifax, POSSIBLE, and Akamai have worked with CINDE to source talent from local universities and CINDE-

sponsored job fairs. These global powerhouses recognize the need for boots-on-theground intel and specialization in the CR hub of industry explosion. In 2017, CINDE was awarded Best High-Tech Investment Promotion Agency in Latin America by the World Economic Forum. According to Jorge Sequeira, Managing Director at CINDE, “Our country is considered as one of the top investment destinations in the world due to its value proposition. We talk about a proven track record, qualified workforce, strategic location, excellent business climate, robust utilities infrastructure and quality of life. The Costa Rican human talent is the key factor that allows the country to be attractive for all those companies looking for new markets in order to expand their operations. Human talent will continue being the main thrust force in order to install more investment projects.” With recognized organizations like CINDE providing a link from big business to the local communities, it’s easy to see why Costa Rica ranks 29th in the world ( just behind Spain and the U.S. according to the World Economic Forum) in Human Capital.

Destination Costa Rica

While it’s easy to see why major hotel chains such as Marriott, Westin, the W Hotel and others have found a welcoming home in this tropical paradise, it is exciting to see companies outside the tourism sector discovering the financial benefits as well. Perhaps the most compelling part of this surge is the continued increase in job opportunities for Costa Ricans. Destination Costa Rica is good for business and people.

Graphic courtesy of WEF (World Economic Forum) 2017 Annual Report

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 7

CR BIZ

The Business of Seasons

CR BIZ 101

by Mary Demeter

High season also coincides with an expat exodus out of the country

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osta Rica is perfect for both large and small businesses. Entrepreneurs from all over the world come to the mountains and the seas here with dreams of living pura vida. Whether it’s the bustling renaissance port of Limón, the Greater Metropolitan Area of San José, cultural hubs like La Fortuna and Arenal or the numerous coastal towns teeming with tourists and expats, they all need goods and services. Joining powerhouses in the league of Amazon and Walmart, who have operational outposts in the country, are thousands of small business owners. One of the first considerations for anyone launching a small business in Costa Rica should be seasonality. Yet, it may be easily overlooked in writing a business plan if the owner has not lived here for very long. Too often, entrepreneurs leap into their exciting new business without realizing the impact that an ever-shifting population can have. In these wise words of author J.R.R. Tolkien, “It does not do to leave a live dragon out of your calculations, if you live near him.” While Costa Rica may not have live dragons — unless you count giant iguanas — all areas of the country do experience extreme business seasonality. This is a “live dragon” that should always be factored into anyone’s

small business plan. One of the first drastic adjustments that newcomers don’t always see coming is the vast seasonal deviation from what seemed universally normal in their country of origin. The market demographics of Costa Rica are tied to tourism, weather and expat transiency. Time after time, business owners recall being caught off guard by what is known as the “season within the season.”

Unhiding the dragon

However unfamiliar the concept is at first, it can take time for the “high” season and “low” season that people commonly talk about to make sense. This refers to the tourism peaks and valleys based on a combination of weather and travel patterns. High season typically runs from November through April. Local businesses see an influx of tourist traffic due to the Christmas holidays, New Year’s and Easter/ spring break vacations. This is also when the weather is sunny and hot at the beaches — namely, the perfect time for travellers fleeing chillier northern climes to enjoy a Costa Rican getaway. What newcomers may not account for when planning around high season business trends, however, is the reverse outflux. High season also coincides with an expat exodus out of the country. howlermag.com

Similar to global vacation patterns elsewhere in the world, many expats make travel plans to leave paradise during the holidays and school breaks. In effect, one population changes out for the other. Low season, conversely, lasts from May through October. This is otherwise known as green season or rainy season. Depending on what area of the country you’re in, the rainfall can be substantial. Generally, it’s the coolest and most lush time to travel in Costa Rica. However, with many tourists scared off by the threat of rain, businesses typically see a significant drop in revenue. These are the months when it is critical for business owners to build income plans that compensate for the loss of tourist traffic. While there is a relatively small surge of tourists during the June through August period, it usually falls far short of

what new business owners anticipate. That is why so many experienced business owners typically close for a portion of low season.

Critical first two years

Failing to understand and properly plan for our live dragon — aka seasonality — can cripple a new business in the first two years. It’s not enough to plan for Costa Rica’s high and low tourist seasons alone; you must also have a very clear understanding of how the expat community ebbs and flows in each specific area … the season within the season. Take the time to talk with business owners who have been open for more than two years. They can provide the kind of insight that a business plan cannot. Get to know the population shifts before opening for business to ensure the highest rate of success.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 9

CR BIZ

Corporation Basics: Benefits and Obligations

Don't Fall Behind

LEGALEASE

by Ivan Granados

o you own property or a business in Costa Rica? If so, is it registered to you personally or your corporation? Why does it matter? Like all countries, Costa Rica has its own legal requirements and restrictions for owning a business and property in the country. The following are general considerations. Most foreigners purchasing investment real estate or opening a business in Costa Rica form a corporation to act as a holding entity for the property or company. Corporate ownership, most often structured as a Sociedad de Responsibilidad Limitada (SRL) or Sociedad Anónima (SA), has three main advantages. 1. Liability If a property or business is registered in the owner’s personal name (also known as shareholder), and a lawsuit is filed against that person, the property could be seized or a lien placed on it. Corporate ownership, however, offers a layer of liability protection. In the event of legal action, the company assets remain separate from the personal assets. This offers a layer of protection for liability matters.

Yes, that deadline has passed for 2019! 10

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2. Flexibility A corporation can provide flexibility and peace of mind for property or business owners while away from Costa Rica. They can grant Power of Attorney (POA) to take care of issues on their behalf. Some common examples: • applying for utilities • representing a condo owner at annual homeowner association meetings • filing and/or paying any expenses or taxes • complying with future legal requirements from overseas

3. Estate Planning Corporate ownership of a property or business makes the process easier, with more options, for estate planning and probate. Did you miss a deadline? Corporate ownership of a property or business in Costa Rica carries some important tax obligations. Depending on whether your corporation is active or inactive (in terms of generating income), value-added tax (VAT) — which is replacing sales tax — may be payable monthly, in addition to annual income tax and/or corporate tax. As a friendly reminder, January 31 is the deadline each year for corporate tax (reference Law 9428). Yes, that deadline has passed for 2019! Especially if you don’t live here fulltime or visit regularly, it may be easy to overlook or put off paying your Costa Rica taxes on time. We urge you not to let that happen, as the outcome can be regrettable. Get current before it’s too late If for some reason, you missed the January 31, 2019 corporate tax deadline, you are advised to pay right away to avoid interest and penalties. The National Registry will not issue, certify or register any documents for any company with unpaid corporate taxes. Nor will the company be able to hold a contract with any government or public institution. Major consequences may apply when THREE OR MORE consecutive corporate tax payments are missed. In fact, the Costa Rica tax office (think IRS if you are from the U.S.) will proceed with the dissolution of your corporation. Then, you cannot do anything on behalf of your corporation and must undertake the liquidation process. Always seek legal advice from an attorney you trust.

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WE ARE AS NEAR

TO HEAVEN

BY SEA AS BY LAND

For information (506) 8918-3592 / mark@solrealtycr.com www.solrealtycr.com / By appointment only: Mark Price

SOL REALTY INVESTMENT CONSULTING

*Fee simple beachfront titled ‘Estate For Sale’ Inquire Within

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 11

CR BIZ

ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA

Time Management = Wellness Management

by Joanna Blanco

Start with an easier goal or the one that motivates you the most.

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ura vida! Who doesn't feel good about that Costa Rican phrase and want to fully embrace it? Living in this country has been enjoyable and exciting for me, as I know it has been for countless others. Exposure to nature and beaches — and as much or as little heat and rain as we are comfortable with — contributes value to the kind of high-quality life we have sought here. Even when some consumer goods and services may be harder to find, it is easy to appreciate the lack of big city traffic and pollution we might have left behind in our previous place of residence. Few could disagree that there is an equilibrium in the Costa Rican lifestyle. If pura vida finds you in laid-back mode for all the right reasons, there may be days when the pull of the beach is so compelling that you might actually forget you have a business to run. This can be a warning sign of the need for attention to the work-and-play balance in your life. But it does not mean one must come at the expense of the other, with inevitable sacrifices. Instead, Costa Rica is a place where time management can be redefined in friendlier new ways. You still have the same 24 hours to allocate each day, but pura vida is an incentive to use that time efficiently. Let’s talk about the possibility of doing everything you are excited about doing here, every day.

Keep your focus

It is essential to keep your objectives clear. Your business must have a vision and mission; stick with these, and it will stay stronger and more prosperous. On the personal side, focus on one or two objectives until you accomplish them. You might want to start a new diet, running and waking up earlier, or add meditation to your routine. But attempting all of these at the same time will likely make you frustrated sooner than later. So start with an easier goal or the one that motivates you the most.

Take action

Every objective needs an action plan. To take advantage of your available time, you need an agenda. There are two kinds of people: those with a program and those who go with the flow. Well, good news — you can be both! Either way, having an agenda helps you plan actions for each day, each week and each month. It gives you the big picture of when you devote time for your business and time for yourself.

Follow steps

Every action has steps. These are the pieces of the big puzzle, your objective. For example, you need to get clients for the new product you have launched. Break into steps how you will accomplish this action through product exposure and potential client howlermag.com

communication. Another example: you want to run in a race and are developing a training plan. You determine your training methods, the frequency and duration of training sessions and what you must eat to get stronger. In these examples, and for any set of action steps, you need to determine the “when” for each one.

Set priorities

To manage your time efficiently, always start with a “must do” list. I tell my clients to make a list of the most important things they need to do today, this week and this month. Ask yourself, what are those things that could make my plan fail if I don’t take care of them on time? Be very honest with yourself and then do it! For instance, don’t keep suffering from headaches when you know it’s time

for an updated glasses prescription (which, by the way, happened to me!). Be very honest with yourself when setting each priority and then DO IT! As a health coach, I emphasize that it’s essential for your agenda to include healthy home cooking, physical activity and sleep, as well as time for relaxing and self-care. To master time management, your wellness program must be integrated with your business plan. Always be available for your personal goals. Remember that not all projects are planned correctly, and even if they are, unexpected obstacles can arise. If one of your action plan steps doesn’t get the right results, then it’s the time to go with the flow. Get your feet on the beach and relax. Then redo your plan tomorrow.

Nutrition Advice / Time Management Body & Mind Wellness

If you are looking for a healthier and happier lifestyle, Follow @MovimientoSattva Joanna Blanco offers tips and ideas to make your goals clear and reachable, and become the best version of yourself. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13

CR BIZ

DOING BUSINESS RIGHT

Eliminating Single-Use Plastic Initiative Takes Off

by Nicole Rangel

Reserva Conchal has not only eliminated 12,000 plastic stir sticks per month, but also adopted a green alternative to discarding the wood sticks as trash. 14

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Reserva Conchal a Role Model

rticles in several recent Howler issues have urged for wider and deeper consciousness about consumer use of plastics and the environmental ramifications. The same message is conveyed in heartbreaking videos of plastic straws being dislodged from turtle’s noses or the pumped stomach contents of birds containing plastic pieces. We’ve also seen jarring images of people swimming in a sea of plastic. Single-use plastics such as drinking straws, beverage bottles and take-out food containers are among the most serious eco-contaminants on earth. Although it is a personal choice for individuals not to purchase or use these items, the need to eliminate them rests on larger organizations and businesses doing their part.

Guanacaste-wide effort

Groups from a wide cross-section of commercial and community interests in Costa Rica’s Guanacaste province have joined forces to do just that. On May 31, 2019, they gathered together in Tamarindo as a show of unified support for the Guanacaste libre de plástico de un solo uso (Guanacaste free of single-use plastic) initiative. Representing all 11 cantons of Guanacaste, various government agencies, residential

and commercial developments, tourism chambers, non-profit organizations and entrepreneurs voiced their commitment towards eliminating plastic straws, bags and utensils. Reserva Conchal has been taking a lead role, even before this campaign was official. At its Beach Club, and at the on-site Westin and W Hotels, the use of single-use plastic continues to diminish while relevant eco-conscious education extends to resort guests, residents and employees alike. When restocking supplies, Reserva Conchal tries to purchase items that can be reused or recycled, or made from biodegradable products. The company has replaced bottled water with water fountains around the property, encouraging guests, residents and employees to use refillable containers. By replacing plastic bottles with cans or glass and offering refillable water options throughout the property, the resort replaced 7,847 plastic bottles in just four months.

Reuse or refuse

The restaurants at Reserva Conchal have replaced all takeaway food containers with compostable ones. The retail stores are replacing all plastic bags with paper ones. Photo courtesy of Reserva Conchal

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Another objectionable, but often overlooked, example of single-use plastics are the stir sticks used for coffee and tea. By replacing these with wooden sticks, Reserva Conchal has not only eliminated 12,000 plastic stir sticks per month, but also adopted a green alternative to discarding the wood sticks as trash. Now a component of the extensive in-house waste management system (highlighted in a May 2019 Howler article), these wood sticks are composted with other soil-enhancing ingredients for use throughout the property. Reserva Conchal also recently implemented its own campaign inviting guests in the Beach Club and both hotels to “refuse the use of straws” with their beverages. Not only has there been a drastic decrease in straw consumption — from 40,000 to 14,400 straws per month — but all of the straws currently used are either metal or biodegradable.

Small changes, big gains

Even the seemingly small changes in singleuse plastics consumption at Reserva Conchal have made a huge difference to

environmental education. Employees and residents now go home and use their reusable bottles and their own containers for take-out food. Guests return home with a new understanding of the value of saying, “No straw, please.” Reserva Conchal’s waste center is seeing a huge decrease in the amount of nonbiodegradable plastic that staff members have to package up for landfill.

The future is ours

As more promising examples like this emerge for us to follow, it becomes easier to make a difference and see results sooner. With each initiative — from the cantons of Guanacaste collectively to the individual guest at Reserva Conchal — we all have a choice and an opportunity. The decision to decrease the amount of plastic on earth and in our waterways lies on each of us, whether we are at home, running a business or visiting a new place. To actively choose an alternative to single-use plastic helps our earth to become cleaner and safer for us all. Will you join the initiative and refuse that straw or bring your own bags or takeaway containers?

Inspiring a better way of living www.reservaconchal.com

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15

CR BIZ

Business Changes in

Costa Rica INVESTMENT CHAT WITH NATIVU

Understand the Impact for Real Estate Investors

he year 2019 has brought several significant changes to Costa Rica’s business sector, with both macroeconomic and social impacts.

by Fabricio Riggioni

Superintendent of Financial Institutions (SUGEF), Costa Rica’s regulatory agency for financial entities. This is among various measures the country has adopted, consistent with global efforts, to curb tax fraud and money laundering. Non-compliance penalties could be significant, including measures to freeze, or even close, a company’s accounts.

In July, the value-added tax (VAT) will come into force all over the country, essentially replacing income tax. (For details, see the June 2019 LegalEase article in Howler.) All goods and services are subject to taxes ranging from 2 to 13 percent, depending on the type of As an entrepreneur and investor, it is very important commercial activity. The concept of a VAT has to be aware of these changes and understand the been contemplated for some time as a mechanism repercussions for the affected sectors. We offer the for Costa Rica’s following recommendations Treasury to for taking advantage of Be alert to “properties of opportunity.” current real estate market collect income from entities that conditions. previously had to pay only income tax. Notably, this includes independent professionals such as • Seek financial expertise in reevaluating your lawyers, doctors, architects and others. company’s situation, regardless of the size. 2. Another watershed change this year has been Management decisions should be analyzed with the continued transition to mandatory respect to these tax reform measures. For example, electronic invoicing (factura electronica) for consider whether the applicable 13 percent VAT all taxpayers in Costa Rica. Under a schedule for real estate will be collected directly from your of phased-in compliance deadlines, Resolution clients or a portion could be assumed within your No. DGT-R-51-2016 stipulated which types of company’s profit margins. businesses and professional service providers • Be alert to “properties of opportunity.” If you have would be required to use electronic billing and been waiting for the so-called ideal time to enter receipts for all customer/client transactions. the world of real estate, this may be it. Banks (Several CR Biz articles over the past year have and other financial institutions have reported updated Howler readers on this initiative.) Again, an increase in delinquency portfolios over the this reform measure was proposed many years past 12 months, as more clients have been unable ago to give Costa Rica’s tax administration better to meet their payment obligations. With the control over business transactions through aforementioned changes becoming effective in improved traceability. Barely a year after the 2019, this trend is likely to continue. electronic invoicing platform was launched, many • Review your portfolio properties and update the technical and operational refinements are still amounts of their registered values. That way you needed to make it efficient. can reduce the capital gains tax due when putting 3. Finally, comes a new requirement for companies these properties on the market. dedicated to the business of casinos, private loans • Keep your liquidity levels healthy, as well as your and real estate to register with the General level of portfolio debt. 1.

Investment 16NATIVU | #searchfind•howl | online Consultant: Fabricio Riggioni Phone: (506) 8301-0663 • Email: fabricio@nativu.com howlermag.com

Home FOR SALE

CR BIZ

$980,000 ABOUT THIS PROPERTY

asa Serena is located inside Reserva Conchal, one of the most successful real estate projects in Guanacaste, and even Costa Rica.

The developers managed to create a place where the housing units blend in perfectly with the nature of the beaches and mountains in the area. There are several communities within Reserva Conchal, each with its own unique and special design. Playa Conchal is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Although there are no private beaches in Costa Rica, access to Conchal is a bit complicated, so Reserva Conchal residents generally have this paradise to themselves. Casa Serena is one of the few hacienda-style houses located within Reserva Conchal, specifically in its Melinas community, which has the most spacious and beautiful houses. The new owners of Casa Serena will immediately appreciate the tranquility of its external gardens, as well as the soothing sound of breezes through the trees. Stunning natural wood details throughout the home’s interior harmonize with the high ceilings and windows within each space. The heart of the house is its living room, looking directly onto the pool, gardens and golf course. Casa Serena is perfect for the family wanting a large space to share, while enjoying the privacy its rooms offer, as well as incomparable security for all. It is truly an exceptional opportunity at below $1 million, inside one of Costa Rica's premium residential developments.

Details Contact: Fabricio Riggioni (506) 8301-0663 fabricio@nativu.com

• Lot size: 1,522 m2 • 3 bedrooms • 3 bathrooms • Location: Reserva Conchal

PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17

Luxury Real Estate

Costa Rica

COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE SERVICES, WORLDWIDE

Buy | Sell | Rent | Property Management June 2019

Villa Christopher | $2,895,000 | 6 Bed/7.1 Bath | 5,500 SF Playa Flamingo - Beachfront

Bougainvillea |$2,495,000 | 4 Bed/5 Bath

Casa Islana | $2,395,000 | 8 Bed/8.2 Bath | SF Ocotal - Ocean View

Oceanica | $1,595,000 | 6 Bed/3.1 Bath

Casa Tiger | $1,199,000 | 7 Bed/7.1 Bath

Playa Flamingo - Ocean View

Playa Potrero - Beachfront Potrero | $1.1M | 3 Bed/3 Bath

Ocotal | $675K | 8 Bed/7 Bath

Casa Kai - Beachfront

El Sueño de Ocotal

Ocotal | $624K | 3 Bed/3 Bath

Flamingo | $599K | 7 Bed/7 Bath

Villa Marina - Flamingo Estates 2 Home Compound - Walk to Beach

Azul Paraíso 3B Other Units Available! Ocotal | $529K | 2 Bed/2 Bath Azul Paraíso 9A Other Units Available!

Potrero |$519K | 4 Bed/3.1 Bath

Hermosa | $449K | 4 Bed/3 Bath

Hermosa | $468K | 3 Bed/2 Bath Hermosa del Mar 2-6C Ocean View Condo

Villas Catalina 6 Ocean View & Walk to Beach!

Hermosa Heights 33 Separate Rental Apartment!

www.KrainRealEstate.com | 2654-4010 | 1-866-994-9163 18

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Flamingo | $399K | 2 Bed/2 Bath

Hermosa | $374K | 3 Bed/2 Bath

Potrero | $349K | 3 Bed/2.1 Bath

Coco $299K | 3 Bed/2.1 Bath

Hermosa del Mar 1-4C Garden View

Pac’Þco C-309 Ocean View Condo!

Oceanica Resort Ocean View & Walk to Beach!

Walk to Beach!

Ocotal | $285K | 4 Bed/3 Bath

Flamingo| $258K | 1 Bed/2 Bath

Potrero | $249K | 2 Bed/2 Bath

Hermosa | $179K | 3 Bed/2 Bath

Sueños del Mar 3 Walk to Beach!

Vista Ocotal NEW CONSTRUCTION! Walk to Beach | Tennis | Gym Flamingo Marina Resort 204 Ocean View & Walk to Beach!

Villa Sol 26

KRAIN Costa Rica | COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE SERVICES Hermosa | $9M | 58 Hectares

Flamingo | $5.95M | 6782m2

Hermosa - Ocean View Mixed-Use Development

Titled Beachfront - FLAMINGO Hotel Site - Residential Development

Coco | $1,399M | 11,830 m2

Potrero | $1,.322M | 66,106 m2

Coco | $4.5M | 1.18 Hectares

Beachfront Zoned - Tourism Hotel or Mixed-Use Brasilito | $1,285M | 16 Rooms

Bagaces|$4M|1200Hectares

Mixed-Use Development or Private Estate

Tamarindo Paradise Hotel Site or Residential

Burdeos Cattle Ranch Various Uses | Land Bank

+1M Existing Improvements

Potrero | $825K | 15 Rooms

Flamingo | $650K | 1,807 m2

5 Units | 15 Bedrooms 10 Baths | Reception | Pool

Commercial Road Frontage Mixed-Use Development

Tamarindo | $2.47M | 26,956m2

Mixed-Use Development

Conchal Hotel & Papaya Restaurant

OUR PASSION IS REAL ESTATE. Our team is comprised of U.S. and Canadian licensed agents who have chosen real estate as their profession and value the high standards imposed by U.S. and Canadian licensing requirements. KRAIN’s local reputation and expertise is backed by its selection as a member of the Leading Real Estate Companies of the World®, a global community of over 550 international real estate companies awarded membership based on rigorous standards for service and performance. KRAIN is also the exclusive Costa Rica affiliate for NAI Global, the 4th largest commercial brokerage in the world, and Mayfair International Realty, a London based firm with a global reach. KRAIN’s Luxury Marketing is fueled by Luxury Portfolio. Simply put, we are the best at what we do. Our professionalism, knowledge, and high quality of service is the cornerstone of our unprecedented success and is our continued promise to you, our clients.

Breitlander Team

Peter & Sarah | Owners

Jeff Goode

Broker Associate

Chad Turner

Broker Associate

Jane & Dennis Broker Associates

Les McIntyre Broker Associate

Rick Swindell Broker Associate

Monett Team

Doug & Sharon | Brokers

Jesse Lobb

Broker Associate

8413-7165 or 6148-0406 C.R. Cell: 8411-5347 C.R. Cell: 8511-1625 C.R. Cell: 8410-5180 8844-2577 or 8701-8697 C.R. Cell: 8419-4602 C.R. Cell: 8510-1154 C.R. Cell: 8530-0275 info@kraincostarica.com Jeff@kraincostarica.com Chad@kraincostarica.com Jane@kraincostarica.com Les@kraincostarica.com Rick@kraincostarica.com Doug@kraincostarica.com Jesse@kraincostarica.com

LeadingRE.com | LuxuryPortfolio.com | MayfairInternationalRealty.com

Offices in Tamarindo, Flamingo, Potrero, and Ocotal

Costa Rica

Luxury Real Estate

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19

Come Join Us Costa Rican Identity • Bilingual School Developing proficiency • • • • • • • •

www.educartecostarica.com

Reading Writing Math Languages Science Art Music Sports

Guiding children to their full potential Social & Conceptual Skills • Cultural Awareness

info@educartecostarica.com • (506) 2653- 6363

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HOWLER

DINING GUIDE

Three Restaurants at W Costa Rica â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Reserva Conchal Open to the Public

#howlermag #SearchFindHowl howlermag.com/diningguide HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21

W COSTA RICA - RESERVA CONCHAL

Meet the Chefs

by Rachel Cherry White

t the newly opened W Costa Rica — Reserva Conchal, the details are everything, and nothing has been overlooked. The ambiance is laid-back cool, with a curated music list and haute decor. The views are unbeatable, the rooms and pools are playfully luxurious. The food is some of the best in the area, and the hotel restaurants are truly doing something unique: they are elevating Costa Rican cuisine. The Howler will be featuring each of these restaurants in our upcoming issues. No matter what flavors you crave, the restaurants of the W have you covered. Before you go, here’s your chance to meet the ultra-talented men and women bringing you this amazing food.

HEARTY Julio César Valdivia The esteemed head chef at the W hails from Peru — arguably the foodie capital of the world — but says that Tico flavors are influencing his kitchen a lot. Valdivia has loved cooking since childhood, preferring cooking shows to cartoons for entertainment. After studying in Peru, he cooked in fine dining establishments all over the world. Overseeing all of the restaurants and menus at the W, the chef stays humble and credits his staff for helping him learn Costa Rican customs, techniques, and supplies. “I am proud of the team I have, grateful to have come to this beautiful country,” he says. “Day by day my team teaches me new things and always give me their 100 percent best.” FRESH Franco Bueno The chef at Cocina de Mercado is also from Lima, Peru, and takes pride in mixing the best from both Peruvian and Costa Rican cuisine. But the integrity of the flavors of the food always shine through, and this is foremost in the chef ’s mind when creating his dishes. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Bueno gets satisfaction from cooking, saying, “I love how I can make our guests feel with the presentation and flavors of my food.”

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Hours Breakfast: Mon-Fri, 6:30-10:30am Sat, Sun 6:30-11am Lunch: Noon-3pm Dinner: 6-10pm Special Event - W Brunch When: First Sunday of each month 1-4pm howlermag.com

SAVORY Erick Agüero Zúñiga The most upscale dining option at the W, Latitud 10° Norte, serves up an amalgam of Costa Rican and Thai foods — both countries are located on the same latitudinal lines. Chef Agüero studied culinary arts right here in Costa Rica, training under Asian chefs to also learn their techniques. His love of Costa Rica and its food is evident. “I’m proud to be a Tico head chef at one of the best restaurants in Costa Rica,” he says.

Hours Dinner:

6-10pm

Specialty: “Mixology Dining Experience” includes 4 signature cocktails paired with 4 L10N dishes

AL FRESCO Roy Trejos Solano Chef Trejos of Zona Azul grew up in the Central Valley, but his menu is from all over the world … well, the places in the world where people live the longest. He and his team were inspired by the world’s “Blue Zones” (apropos the restaurant name, Zona Azul), so the cuisine boasts flavors of Greece, California, Italy, Japan, and of course, Costa Rica. This chef ’s secret ingredient, though, is that Tico kindness. When I find him in his kitchen he is writing down a recipe for a guest. Trejos’ resume reads like a list of the top hotels in Costa Rica, but the W is his favorite. “I get to use my imagination,” he says, “creating combinations of flavors from around the world.”

ZO NA A ZUL B E AC H C LU B

Hours Lunch: Dinner:

Noon-6pm 6-10pm

Special Events Detox Retox Repeat What: A bottomless brunch at the beach club When: Sundays, noon - 5pm

SWEET Carla Reategui The pastry chef for the W is in charge of crafting recipes and making desserts for all of the restaurants. Carla Reategui originally went to culinary school in her hometown of Lima, Peru, but when she moved to Switzerland she started working as a pastry chef. “I love to cook, but when I bake, I feel like a fish in the water,” she says with a smile. The W managed to recruit Carla after she had spent years teaching at a pastry school. In true playful W style, she says, “I like playing with textures, temperatures and flavors. It’s so fun to create, change and try new things.”

WHATEVER /WHENEVER® Now you know who’s cooking, so stop in for some incredible food, fun, and flavors. Reservations for every restaurant (or anything else you need at the W) are available at Whatever/Whenever.

Call: 2654-3600

WhatsApp: 8489-7458

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

HUACAS

New York Pizzeria 200m west of the Brasilito/ Huacas crossroads, Huacas www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas Hours Daily, 5pm-10:30pm Phone: 2653-6296 8729-5640

Pizzeria

New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste, for an authentic New York style pizza. Dine-in or take-out available. Enjoy! Specialties Authentic New York style pizza Freshly made breadsticks

MENU SELECTIONS

Huacas: Main road, north side halfway between Super Compro and intersection to Brasilito Hours Daily, 6am - 9pm Phone: 2653-6273

Soda Guaymy

Typical Costa Rican Food If you want great quality typical Costa Rican food and an ice-cold beer, Soda Guaymy's delivers! And its as economical as it gets!

jimemurillo98@hotmail.com

MENU SELECTIONS

Meat Lover's Pizza

Casados

House Special Pizza

Rice with shrimp or chicken

Pepperoni, ham, salami, bacon, and ground beef

Pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, and sweet peppers

HUACAS 3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am

Fish, chicken and beef served with rice, beans and whatever is fresh A traditional favorite: Arroz con camerones o pollo

La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita Restaurant & Bar is open to hotel guests and the public and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.

MENU SELECTIONS

Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com

Broken Yolk Sandwich

$12

Pasta

Specialties Food cooked to your taste! â&#x20AC;&#x201D; con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue

Breakfast Quesadilla

$12

Open Grill

BLT La Playita

$10

Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato

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$14

Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad

From $16

Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day

Pineapple FlambĂŠ

Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream

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HUACAS

DINING GUIDE

Solan Victoria:

Costa Rican Cuisine

Hours Wed-Mon, 11am-midnight Tue, 4-midnight

Lively locals' bar and restaurant. Come and enjoy great food and good times.

Phone: 8567-2493

Specialties Great cocktails Amazingly delicious menu options with localsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pricing

Whole Fried Red Snapper

c4000

Shrimp ceviche

c2500

Arroz con pollo

c1800

PLAYA GRANDE

Hours Daily, 8am - 9:30pm Breakfast, 8-11am Lunch, 11am-5pm Dinner, 5-9pm Happy-Hour 4-6pm Sunday Brunch 8am-2pm Phone: 2653-0480 ripjackinn.com

Main road to Playa Grande Hours Daily, 8am - 5pm Phone: 4701-2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com

Coffee Shop and Plants

Fresh, healthy and fun. Focus on homemade ingredients. Different dietary options: gluten-free, lactose-free vegan. Specialties Coffee, plants and pots Costa Rican boutique Workshops

MENU SELECTIONS

Playa Grande proper

Pots & Bowls:

Rip Jack Inn Tree Top Dining

A diverse menu that includes fresh local seafood as well as tasty treats from the land, crisp salads, veggie bowls, local dishes and options for kids! Specialties Smoothie bar, fresh and frozen cocktails, bocas menu, vegetarian menu available, gluten-free options, full service for retreats and weddings.

MENU SELECTIONS

Choco-Banana NiceCream

Peanut butter, cacao, almond milk, granola, bee pollen, nibs

Tuna Poke $14 Sushi rice, avocado, edamame, wakame, mango

El Oasis Chill Out

Main road to Playa Grande, 20m after Wil-Mart

and Lodge

Hours Fri - Sun, 4pm-10pm

Enjoy traditional Vietnamese and Thai cuisine in a tropical garden setting.

Phone: 2249-6166, 8496-2221

Authentic Asian Food

Specialties Smiles and good vibes Private Asian chef service, pho, Free delivery to Playa Grande and Matapalo

MENU SELECTIONS

Grilled Mahi

Appetizers

Greek Chicken

Entrees

Served with a yogurt cilantro lime sauce, mixed veggies and grilled polenta Grilled chicken breast with a creamy caper sauce served with roasted Mediterranean vegetables & cauliflower rice

Spring rolls, rainbow salad and nems

Pad Thai, bun nems bowl, Cantonese rice, stir-fried wok

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25

PLAYA GRANDE

MATAPALO

Matapalo: Main square on the way to Playa Grande

PLAYA GRANDE

DINING GUIDE

Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Wed, 7-9pm, Avellino Fri, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante @hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products All taxes included in price

VILLARREAL

8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal Hours By reservation Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85.

El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant

El Barco del Capitán is nestled in a beautiful tropical garden within the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. Our chef, Jujo Molina, has created the dishes inspired by his European heritage and the incredible products available in Costa Rica. Using our homegrown ingredients from our organic garden, we strive to offer an environmentally friendly menu and an authentic experience to our guests.

Tacos Carne (Lunch)

MENU SELECTIONS $15

Tartar Capitan (Dinner)

$13

$15

Linguini (Dinner)

$23

Lomito (Dinner)

$28

Beef in tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce

The Veggie (Lunch)

Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing

Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun

Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine

Calamari Crujientes (Snack) $13

Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche

Black Stallion:

Rustic Outdoor BBQ

Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations. Available for private parties and events.

MENU SELECTIONS

200g of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables

Flamingo: At the curve en route to Flamingo Hours Tue - Sun, 11am -9pm Closed Mondays Phone: 8373 2833 Specialties Local fresh seafood Beautiful beach sunsets

Pleamar:

Tipico CR Restaurant Come enjoy a truly local fresh seafood experience that offers reasonably priced selections prepared and presented to please the most demanding appetites. Located on the beach so enjoy the beautiful sunsets!

MENU SELECTIONS

Mixed BBQ Buffet

$45

Seafood Platter

Seafood Buffet

$45

Shrimp Pasta

Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes

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Fresh seafood combination sauteed with light local seasonings Creamy fresh shrimp pasta dish that's prepared when you order

howlermag.com

PLAYA FLAMINGO

TAMARINDO/LANGOSTA

Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo

PLAYA FLAMINGO

DINING GUIDE

SOMEWHERE OMEWHERE BAR AR Margaritaville Beach Resort, Playa Flamingo Hours Daily from 4pm - 11pm Happy hour: 4:30-6:30 Phone: 2654-4444, ext. 3264 Specialties Nachos, tacos, burgers, salads and sandwiches

World Famous Margaritas!

5 o'Clock Somewhere Bar & Grill: Drinks and Casual Dining Best place on the Gold Coast to take in panoramic oceanfront views and multi-screen sports TV while enjoying hand-crafted cocktails and a delicious casual dining menu. You will want to return again and again for juicy cheeseburgers and mouthwatering tacos, not to mention the perfect margaritas and other specialty cocktails. Enjoy a beautiful sunset view during the daily Happy Hour 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday nights feature live entertainment with the best of the area's local bands and musical talent.

Live Music

Regularly Scheduled Check Schedule and updates at 5 o Â´clock somewhere facebook page

@ 5oCSBG

A perfect blend of Costa Rican and international cuisine that includes freshly caught local fish and grass-fed beef. Enjoy the oceanfront sea breeze on the outdoor patio or dine inside in air-conditioned comfort.

An Italian bistro with a tropical view. Choose from a selection of pizzas, pastas and paninis, or build your own dish with a variety of fresh, delicious ingredients.

Hours Daily 6:30am to 9:30pm breakfast, lunch, dinner

Hours Daily 5pm to 11:30pm Pizza only from 9:30pm

Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3269

Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3268

Specialties Fresh fish, grass-fed beef, international buffets, kids menu

Specialties Specialty artisanal pizza oven; design your own pizzas and pastas

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27

DINING GUIDE

SURFSIDE / POTRERO

1 km east of Banco Nacional in Flamingo Hours Daily, 6:30am-9:30pm Phone: 2654-4671, 2654-5340 Specialties Fresh seafood and pasta

NASU: Creative Tropical Cuisine Welcome to Nasu Restaurant, tropical creative cuisine. Join us oceanside, where the freshest catch is prepared every day by our acclaimed chef. Enjoy the culinary treasures of Costa Rica, where tradition and innovation meet.

MENU SELECTIONS NASU Salad

Shrimp Spicy Tacos

SURFSIDE / POTRERO

Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Breakfast, 8-11am Lunch and Dinner, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm

$14

$16

Cheesecake

$25

Grilled lobster, garlic buttered baby-potatoes with with rosemary and mixed vegetables

Served with garlic buttered baby-potatoes and carrots Homemade cheesecake with blueberry topping

Keylime Pie

Special dessert of the chef

Renowned for its fresh seafood, this quaint restaurant and bar was transformed from a private residence. Come and enjoy incredible food with awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.

MENU SELECTIONS Grilled Scallops

Shrimp Ceviche

Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view Call for reservations

Catch of the Day

Bang Bang Shrimp

Seafood Platter

Grilled Lobster Tails

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The Beach House: Beachfront Dining

Phone: 2654-6203

Now serving breakfast 28

Grilled Octopus

Flour tortilla, breaded shrimp, mango coleslaw and spicy mayonnaise

Pacific Lobster All taxes included in price

$10

Lettuce mix, avocado, hearts of palm, blackberries, orange and passion fruit dressing

Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice Fresh mahi mahi, grilled jumbo shrimp, sautĂŠed calamari, with rice pilaf and grilled vegetables

Peruvian style marinated shrimp, red pepper and onion, tomato and cilantro with plantain chips Crispy, creamy, sweet, and spicy shrimp in cornmeal breading with tangy Thai chili sauce Two roasted lobster tails in wine-garlic butter sauce with grilled vegetables and rosemary potatoes howlermag.com

LAS CATALINAS

DINING GUIDE

At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu

Sentido Norte: Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly-sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.

MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats

Casa Chameleon Burger $19

Guacamole and Salsa

$12

French Toast

$12

Ceviche $14

Moules Frities

$26

Knife & Fork Tortillas

$14

Grilled Chicken Wrap

$17

Grilled Skirt Steak

$32

Chicharrón or vegan huevos rancheros

With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli

Vegan Omelettes

$14

Vegan Bowl

$19

Mushroom Lamb Risotto $33

With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce

With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream

With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion

Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"

Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans

Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato Wok sautéed with garlic butter and chardonnay broth

Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries

Slowly braised with porcini, portobello and crimini mushrooms

Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 59

Howler Magazine Costa Rica - July/August 2019

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ByM Construction

Alfa Company

Sol Realty

Grupo Pacifico

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Business Confidence

Mermaids & Sailors

Azul Profundo

Cer A Csa

Force On Security

Hidden Garden Art

RPM

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Superior Skate

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Presidential Challenge

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