HP MAGAZINE VOLUME 24 |DECEMBER 2020
HOW MUCH DO YOU SPEND ON YOUR HAIR? Real Women Fess Up
VACAY DRESS CODE
Insane prints,Bright Colours,Big Smile
JESSICA AURICCHIO
The greatest glory in living lies not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall. FASHION MODEL
FASHION HOW TO LOOK CHIC IN A SUIT, IN SPARKLES, IN RED
What's the Right Heel for my Look?
ZUHAIR MURAD
GEORGES HOBEIKA
HP MAGAZINE
VOLUME 24 |DECEMBER 2020
Fashion
The show must go on: The changing tides of fashion weeks
Luxury
This $185M London Penthouse Comes With Its Very Own Oval Office
Architecture
The world's tallest hybrid timber tower to be built in Sydney
Lifestyle
Ryan Reynolds, Blake Lively donate $500,000 to homeless youth in Canada ahead of the holiday season
Design
Inside the maximalist LA home of burlesque star Dita Von Teese
Beauty
The Vitamin C Serum With 30,000 Perfect Ratings Is Only $19 Right NowThe Vitamin C Serum With 30,000 Perfect Ratings Is Only $19 Right Now
15. INTERVIEW 20. GIANVITO ROSSI 30. LOOKBOOK 54. TONY WARD 64. YSL BEAUTY
www.marciano.com
Marciano
CLOTHES 路 BAGS 路 SHOES 路 COSMETICS 路 LIFESTYLE
2020 MEDIA KIT
AN INTERVIEW WITH JESSICA AURICCHIO BY HARSHIT PATEL
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INTERVIEW
Hi, could you start by telling us a bit about yourself? Hi dear readers, I’m Jessica , from Italy and I work as a model . Born in 1994, I am 1.80 tall, copper-brown hair, brown eyes, a sign of Taurus. I am a woman full of energy, I put my soul into everything I do, I am sweet but also strong and ironic, resourceful in dealing with everyday life.
Tell us about your journey so far? The word fashion was already written in my destiny. Destiny that manifested itself clearly to me at the age of 9 when I was chosen as the protagonist of the short film "La paura di cercare" (directed by I. di Girolamo) in collaboration with Giffoni Film Festival. Then at the age of 15, with an audition for an agency and a meeting with a fashion choreographer, who later became my posture teacher ... hence the serious decision to continue in this expectation: to be a model.
How would you describe your style? My style is elegant, feminine and sensual. Then I add some details to liven it up, it depends on the occasion.
Tell me about your experience as a model. Mine is a dedication, the one I have for fashion. A bond that gives me new surprises and allows me, in some way, to connect to my depth. Regardless of what it is, a showroom, a fashion show, a photo shoot, in my work as a model I always commit myself with the same dose of diligence, seriousness, energy or even with the same desire to study a character.
2020 has been the strangest of years, how did you find lockdown? Any lessons or discoveries? As a woman, the lockdown gave me space to think, reflect, write. And understand what person I want to be and what values I intend to pursue in life. Without compromise, without trying to be perfect or to have everyone's consent: perfection does not belong to us humans and that's okay.
What are your hopes for the future of the fashion industry? Beauty standards are changing a lot and staying authentic is a precious value
Who have been some of your favorite collaborators so far in the industry? It is an important step in my fashion journey: to be able to boast of having been photographed by celebrity photographer Maria La Torre according to her canons and imprinting, an honor to be captured when I was freeing myself. , passion for the image and experimentation. I would define her as a creator of icons, given that she creates real portraits, behind her there is always a precise choice of lights and colors, a team work directed with extreme care, just as if she were a director during the” making of” of a movie
What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you? I love to dance tango. The dance is the mirror of the soul. It does not allow you to hide
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INTERVIEW
What first piqued your interest in fashion and modeling? I always wanted to be a model, to be part of this fascinating creative world. I have always been attracted by all those glossy covers of those fashion magazines and by the wonderful photographic images that the great masters of photography took ... Then at my first show I felt such a rush of adrenaline that I knew I was in the right place.
What is fun and rewarding about modeling? And what is not? I like this aspect of creating with these people, whether they are stylists, photographers, make-up artists, art directors such a strong relationship, of complicity, of collaboration, which is why I like to be on a catwalk, on a photographic set.
What is the biggest highlight of your career so far? My interpretation of the female icon of Maria Callas in her strong stage presence and in her physical and psychological resistance
Do you have a favorite designer or high street brand? I love Dior, Valentino, Elie Saab ,Versace
How has your style changed over the years? I have always remained myself
What is your greatest strength When I get the most out of doing the things I enjoy most. When I can be creative and work with people closest to me. When I can accomplish something bigger than me
What are your goals as a model? My goal is to pose for Mario Sorrenti, Patrick Demarchelier, Ines and Vinoodh, Mario Testino and many others
How do you imagine a typical day in work? Before it starts I try to relax as much as possible, you know what they say, "the calm before the storm", I go to the gym and try to eat in a balanced way, I drink a lot of water and I take care of my skin.
What are your greatest accomplishments so far? Graduating from university. I chose to study law, because I like to know how the laws that govern society were created, I am fascinated by the idea of justice and how it is applied
What sorts of settings/clothes/brands do you prefer to shoot for or wear? Behind the lens we must make ourselves feel appreciated, only in this way can we talk to the camera, transmitting something from the eyes and head. it's not about the clothes or the setting but being able to wear the true beauty of being yourself
We are huge fans of your Instagram. Do you have any tips or tricks for achieving an aesthetically awesome Instagram page? WOW heartfelt thanks!Well! what to say. I really like Instagram, it gives you visibility, it's a way for others to follow your work and give you support, but also a way to keep in touch with your followers, they see a more private side of your life. You can use it in many ways, you can talk about something important to you, or a cause that is close to your heart or use it even just to post photos of your work, it is an important part of the fashion industry these days.
What’s the one habit you have that changed your life for the better? Yes, I always say to myself "you have to lose before you win and when you fall, you have to get up immediately and try again, never giving up"
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FASHION
The show must go on: The changing tides of fashion weeks
The show must go on. The Spring 21 runway season was the most hybrid variety we’ve ever seen, with a mix of digital presentations, lookbooks and films that ultimately proved effective, keeping travel restrictions and social distancing in mind. Visual media not only allowed us to view runway shows remotely, but gave us access to designers’ inspirations along with intriguing conversations and experiences. The postshow dialogue between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons was a major highlight, while John Galliano and Nick Knight’s film for Maison Margiela added entertaining drama and theatrics that truly enhanced the show experience.
In essence, the box replaced fashion show invitations in a season where most guests were unable to travel. The box concept offered so much more than a traditional fashion momento, inclusive of a letter from the designer, lookbook pictures and fabric cards. Loewe’s version even included pop-out functionality that added a participatory element to elevate the remote show-viewing experience.
Following the series that started with “‘Product as Protection” and “Product as Mood Boost,” we present “The Changing Tides of Fashion Week” written by Melissa Moylan, VP/Creative Director of Womenswear at FS and Carrera Kurnik, Culture Editor & Consumer Insight Strategist at FS.
Other innovative solutions mailed to show guests included Fendi’s FF-branded pasta and Ferragamo’s VR glasses that digitally transported attendees to the front row. In terms of show staging, Jeremy Scott delivered a marionette show featuring 30inch miniature models along with an accurate portrayal of front row guests like Anna Wintour and Anna Dello Russo. The collection was a nod to the 1945 exhibition Théâtre de la Mode and ultimately a highly innovative way to stage a fashion show in the midst of a pandemic.
Another new element that emerged was the “Show in a Box” concept, which JW Anderson introduced at his namesake label and at Loewe.
As for the physical shows, many collections tapped into the yearning so many people felt during lockdown to reconnect with the Earth.
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Designers also seemed ready to find both healing and inspiration by re-rooting themselves and their art in natural environments. Riccardo Tisci staged Burberry’s livestream event at a forest-like park outside of London. Likewise Erdem Moralioglu filmed his collection in Epping Forest in Essex, England, where models walked amidst towering trees in romantic florals. Indeed many designers have turned to nature to heal in these uncertain times, by providing both a sense of escapism and renewed vitality. While fashion has always had a love affair with art, Spring 21 collections were especially intertwined with artistic creations. With so many during lockdown taking up crafting as a means of expression in their down time, from watercolor painting, to knitting, to hand embroidery—designers too took hold of the maker’s zeitgeist to create pieces that call attention to the nourishment found in the crafting process. Christopher Kane offered a prime example of this, having produced artwork during lockdown which then inspired one-off garments with painterly brushstrokes. Another interpretation that could be seen in a creative light and making do with what we have at hand, is the fact that during these times, more designers at the luxury level invested in upcycling and patchwork constructions. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi produced a striking patchwork collection which leveraged old prints and fabric scraps. Of course the concept of upcycling is not new, however it’s gaining momentum as a result of quarantine and offers a sustainable solution we hope to see more of.
FASHION
In this most untraditional of runway seasons, we saw designers turn to new audiences both in terms of social media and the end consumer. #TikTokFashionMonth made its debut, featuring shows from Prada and JW Anderson as well as collaborative capsule collections and “afterparty performances” from Jaden Smith and Chloe x Halle. With TikTok becoming one of the fastest growing social media platforms in the world (with 800 million active users), it can be expected that future fashion weeks will attempt to reach this budding creative community to engage with the very fringes of cool in contemporary youth culture on the app. Another big push this season particularly in Paris, was that genderless design pushed the case for inclusivity. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia approached unisex clothing from both an inclusive and sustainable perspective, considering that genderless clothing is also less impactful on the environment. Thom Browne, Kenneth Ize and Each x Other also tapped into genderless design and Nicholas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton spoke to gender fluidity with shapes that work for both men and women. Likewise, Dries Van Noten merged his womens and mens collection together. Like so much of what we’ve identified in the Spring 21 season, many of these topics aren’t new; however, the pandemic can be seen as the spark that ignites real change within our industry. Evolving conversations regarding the relevance of fashion weeks and sustainability are being addressed and improved upon even in the most difficult of times, and that gives us hope for the future.
GIANVITO ROSSI
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FASHION
4 brands boycotting Black Friday for good causes
Baukjen and Isabella Oliver to give back this Black Friday London-based sustainable online womenswear and maternity wear brands Baukjen and Isabella Oliver are swapping deals for good deeds this Black Friday. The slow fashion business has decided to go against the aggressive discounting this year, in favour of donating all profits to charities in need. Over the four-day shopping weekend, from Black Friday to Cyber Monday, Baukjen and Isabella Oliver will be boycotting consumerism by partnering with four different charities - Centrepoint, The Trussell Trust, Papyrus and The Prince’s Trust. Each day it will donate 100 percent of profits from both its premium fashion brand websites to the social causes in the UK. “It’s been such a difficult year and as an ethical and sustainable brand we don’t feel its right to participate and encourage hyper consumerism,” explains Baukjen de Swaan Arons, creative director and founder of Baukjen and Isabella Oliver in a statement. “We believe in buying less and buying better, which is why this year, we wanted to give back and really make a difference.”
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FASHION
Allbirds to raise prices on Black Friday instead of discounting While other brands are slashing prices, sustainable sneaker brand Allbirds will actually be raising prices. For Black Friday 2020, Allbirds will be increasing prices across its entire collection, while asking its customers to “break tradition, not the planet”. Allbirds will raise all prices by 1 US dollar and match them by 1 US dollar, with the difference being donated to Fridays For Future, the youth-led international climate movement founded by climate activist Greta Thunberg. In a statement, the sneaker brand explained: “As a certified B Corp, we believe that business can be a force for good, and balancing purpose with profit is the future of commerce. To successfully tackle climate change, we need to collectively reduce our carbon impact and protect the earth’s resources. “With a little more consciousness around how we consume, we can all tread lighter on the planet. What better time to start living a more balanced life than on Black Friday?”
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FASHION
Hush partners with charity Crisis Fashion brand Hush will be partnering with charity Crisis to support their new ‘Connect for Crisis’ initiative for Black Friday, where they will donate 20 percent of all online proceeds for 24 hours to the campaign. All money raised through Hush-uk.com between 0:01 to 23:59 on Friday, November 27 will go directly to supporting Crisis this Christmas alongside their services throughout the year on housing, health and wellbeing, work, learning and digital inclusion. Hush founder and creative director, Mandy Watkins, said: “We’ve never been fans of Black Friday and we were always planning to sit it out this year. However, with all that’s happened in recent months, it seemed increasingly fitting that instead offering any Black Friday discounts, we use the opportunity to raise money for our friends at our long-term charity partner, Crisis, to help with their ongoing campaign to end homelessness for good.”
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FASHION
Celtic and Co. to set an example of “consciousness” British fashion brand Celtic and Co. has declared that it “won’t be playing the Black Friday game” this year and instead wants to set “an example of consciousness” and will not be offering any special discounts the week commencing Black Friday or on the day itself. It is calling on its customers to think before they buy, by asking themselves will they wear an item of clothing more than a few times? Will it last? Will it go out of fashion and get left at the back of their wardrobe? And what will happen when they decide it has had its day? Instead of discounting, Celtic and Co. will donate 1 pound for each order placed on Black Friday to the CLIC Sargent charity, which is also the beneficiary of all profits of the sales of its knitted facemasks. Kath Whitworth, co-founder of Celtic and Co., explained: “Instead of offering big, out of the norm discounts, that completely undermine the quality and care that went into the making of our garments and disrespect the people who made them, we have decided to donate 1 pound from each order on Black Friday to charity. “We want to set an example to show that we care about a sustainable society every day of the year. We won’t forget our ethos and our own aspiration towards what we’re doing just for the sake of more sales.”
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LUXURY
This $185M London Penthouse Comes With Its Very Own Oval Office
The next US President won't be the only person with keys to the Oval Office, after a London penthouse sold for over $180 million in a building with its own replica of the famous room. The apartment is in the former US embassy building at No.1 Grosvenor Square in upscale Mayfair, where Joseph P. Kennedy served as America's ambassador to the UK between 1938 and 1940. It was Kennedy, the father of John F. Kennedy, who built an Oval Office replica in the building in 1938, reportedly to inspire his oldest son -- Joseph P. Kennedy Jr. -- to seek political office, according to Lodha UK, the firm that has developed the block. The company told CNN that an unnamed buyer bought the top-floor apartment as well two others on the story below for a combined total of ÂŁ139 million (around $181 million) last month and plans to knock them together to form a 15,600-square-foot home. It is the most expensive penthouse to be sold in London so far this year,the firm added.Lodha UK chief executive Gabriel York told CNN that his company would not disclose details about the buyer but said its clients typically ran "major UK or international businesses." While Kennedy's original imitation of the Oval Office was positioned elsewhere in the building, in the new development, the replica is situated in the building's lobby and has been recreated using modern materials. While Kennedy's original imitation of the Oval Office was positioned elsewhere in the building, in the new development, the replica is situated in the building's lobby and has been recreated using modern materials.
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LUXURY
"It was not initially where it is today -- it was more at the back of the building and now it's at the front," said Blandine de Navacelle, a marketing executive at Lodha UK. De Navacelle said another change was the increased height of the ceilings, after the neo-Georgian facade was dismantled and then painstakingly restored with additional layers of bricks. When the development is completed in December, No.1 Grosvenor Square will have more than 40 residences, all of which have access to communal features such as a heated swimming pool and gym. As well as being the home of two former US embassy buildings, Grosvenor Square was where John Adams, the second President, lived in 1785 as US Ambassador.
ALBERI COUTURE
SHEGLAM
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ARCHITECTURE
The world's tallest hybrid timber tower to be built in Sydney
Sydney could soon be home to the world's tallest hybrid timber building if a new project comes to fruition. BVN design studio and New York-based SHoP Architects have been commissioned to build a new headquarters for software company Atlassian, which will be constructed using timber, steel and glass, according to a BVN press release. The building will have approximately 40 floors and will feature natural ventilation and large planted terraces. The hybrid construction could use 50% less embodied carbon than conventional techniques and, once completed, use 50% less energy than a conventional building. It will also feature solar panels and operate on 100% renewable energy from the day it opens. "Atlassian has their eyes set firmly on the future, this project will achieve a number of 'firsts' globally and in Australia," Ninotschka Titchkosky, BVN co-CEO, said in a statement. "It will make what was once best practice seem inadequate and hopefully lift the ambition of the built environment across Australia." The building will use a technique known as Mass Timber Construction (MTC), involving a steel exoskeleton that supports the rest of the structure. MTC is "one of the most hopeful technologies in moving the construction industry toward real solutions to the global climate crisis," according to BVN.
The planned structure will incorporate the existing facade of an old parcel shed that currently houses a YHA youth hostel. The building will stand in the tech precinct at Sydney's Central Station and could be completed by 2025, as part of a planned regeneration of the area that could provide workspace for some 25,000 employees, with 4,000 in the Atlassian building alone. Offices around the world have closed due to the coronavirus pandemic and some companies have told employees they will be working from home for good. But Altassian is confident its planned building will respond to the new realities of working life. "The space that we are building will be highly sustainable and highly flexible. It will be purpose-built for the future of work, for tomorrow's world, not today's," said Scott Farquhar, Atlassian co-founder and co-CEO, in the statement. "Even with a highly distributed workforce, we'll need a place to come together. Now we can design this space especially for these new ways of working." Both Farquhar and local government leader Gladys Berejiklian, the New South Wales Premier, said the new district would generate jobs and drive the area's recovery from coronavirus. Development applications will be submitted in the next few months, with construction to begin next year if approved. The world's current tallest timber building is an 18-story tower in the Norwegian town of Brumunddal. The 280-foot-tall Mjøstårnet tower became the world's tallest timber building when it opened in 2019. There is a growing body of evidence that timber can provide a sustainable alternative to concrete and steel. A slew of new timber high-rises is set to break ground or open in 2020. HoHo Vienna, a mixed-use development just five feet shorter than Mjøstårnet, opened for business in Austria early in the year, and Pritzker Prizewinning architect Shigeru Ban has designed a "hybrid" condo complex comprising a steel and concrete core with a timber frame that will open this year in Vancouver, Canada.
BVN WERE CHOSEN AS THE DESIGN TEAM, WITH SHOP AS THE ARCHITECTS. CREDIT: SHOP/BVN ARCHITECTS
THE BUILDING IS SUPPORTED BY A STEEL EXOSKELETON. CREDIT: SHOP/BVN ARCHITECTS
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DESIGN
Inside the maximalist LA home of burlesque star Dita Von Teese
Since she first entered the world of burlesque in the early '90s, Dita Von Teese has become a global style icon, bringing the unique blend of traditional pin-up and punk aesthetics that defines her performances into her personal wardrobe. So it's no wonder that her Tudor Revival-style Los Angeles home is an eye-catching mix of eclectic influences too, full of antique furniture, glittering objets and unexpected finds. "I have a phobia of white walls in houses," Von Teese told ArchDigest.com in an online exclusive. "I am a maximalist. My first order of business was going through room by room and adding color and excitement to the room." When it comes to color, Von Teese embraced the entire spectrum. In the dining room, blue walls offsets blood-red tables and chairs; a powder-pink powder room evokes '50s glamour; and the kitchen is a tasteful combination of British racing green appliances and copper accents. Excitement can be found in the form of taxidermy animals (think swans, peacocks, and a crown-wearing tiger in the living room), chandeliers, bold velvet furniture, and rows of Art Deco-inspired shelves full of shoes. "I like feeling like I am living in this house in a very similar way to the way somebody did in the '20s or '30s," Von Teese said. "It made a big difference to me when I was buying the house that someone lived here for so long and raised their children here. The owner even got married here." Unsurprisngly, Von Teese said she was keen to embrace the house's original features, rather than gutting it and going full contemporary.
PASQUALE BRUNI
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LIFESTYLE
Ryan Reynolds, Blake Lively donate $500,000 to homeless youth in Canada ahead of the holiday season
Ryan Reynolds and Blake Lively are getting into the holiday giving spirit early with a hefty donation to a Canadian charitable organization. The duo donated $250,000 to Covenant House Vancouver as well as another $250,000 to Covenant House Toronto to help support at-risk, homeless and trafficked youths across the “Deadpool” actor’s home country. The organization has been operating for more than 40 years, according to its website, and seeks to help support young people who have been the victims of trafficking or are homeless due to outside circumstances in their lives. “Ryan and Blake truly understand that young people who are facing homelessness deserve unconditional love and absolute respect. Their generous donation and compassionate support mean so much to Covenant House and we are truly grateful for their continued friendship. Just like Ryan and Blake, we hope this gift highlights the value of each and every youth; and inspires others to open their hearts to those struggling with the crisis of homelessness,” Krista Thompson, CEO of Covenant House Vancouver, shared in a blog post announcing the news. “Covenant House provides love, hope and stability for at-risk youth who’ve fled physical, emotional and sexual abuse,” Reynolds said. “They do the work of heroes. For us, helping Covenant House this way isn’t a donation, but an investment in compassion and empathy; something the world needs more of.
TONY WARD
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BEAUTY
The Vitamin C Serum With 30,000 Perfect Ratings Is Only $19 Right NowThe Vitamin C Serum With 30,000 Perfect Ratings Is Only $19 Right Now
Shop now: $19 with coupon (Originally $29.99); amazon.com If you’ve been looking for a way to reduce hyperpigmentation and achieve glowy, sunkissed skin, allow us to offer you a solution: vitamin C serum. As an antioxidant, vitamin C helps fight off damage from UV rays and air pollutants, leaving you with bright, even, and smooth-to-the-touch skin. And with 30,000 five-star ratings on Amazon, the TruSkin Vitamin C Serum is the perfect product to add to your skincare routine. But if that customer stamp of approval isn’t enough to convince you, consider the fact that the serum is over 30 percent off for Cyber Monday. In addition to vitamin C, the best-selling serum contains hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, witch hazel, and jojoba oil to help avoid wrinkles and dark spots. The formula is entirely plantbased, so there are no added synthetic colors, fragrances, parabens, phthalates, sulfates, PEGs, or GMOs. Plus, it’s gentle enough that you can apply a few drops to your skin either in the morning or at night. “I’ve only been using [the serum] for less than a week, and I can already tell a huge difference in my skin,” one reviewer wrote. “It looks so hydrated, and my forehead wrinkles have completely disappeared! And it’s doing wonders working on my frown lines and “angry face” between my eyebrows. My dark spots are already looking lighter. I can’t wait to see what my face looks like in a month.”
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