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YOUR EQUESTRIAN QUESTIONS ANSWERED

My horse never stands at the mounting block. I didn't mind initially, but now it's really making me nervous. What can I do to fix this?

First and foremost, rule out pain or discomfort as a reason for this behaviour. It's possible he is moving around to avoid pain when you get on. Consult a vet and saddle fitter before moving on to training him. Assuming pain has been ruled out as a possible cause, think about the process as similar to training any other behaviour. He has already learned this habit, so now you have to do quite a bit of groundwork for him to unlearn it.

Start with desensitising him to the mounting block. Lead up to the mounting block, jump around next to him and get on and off the block, but don't actually try and mount. When he is used to this, teach him the word 'stand'. Lead him up to the block, stand him, tell him to stand, and then treat him and scratch him. Slowly build on this over time. For example, stand one foot in the stirrup and when he doesn't move, reward him. The next step can then be putting weight into the stirrup and rewarding him. Continue in this way to break the process down into the smallest steps you can think of until you eventually get on.

I'm a relatively novice rider looking to buy my first horse. Any tips on what kind of horse I should be looking for? How often should my horse be dewormed?

Depending on your budget and confidence, generally, a schoolmaster (a horse who has a great deal of experience) is a good choice for a novice rider as he will be able to help you while you are still learning. A younger horse with a good temperament is also an option for you. Temperament is extremely important when you're at a novice level, as you will make mistakes. You're allowed to, that's part of learning, but a horse who can compensate and not have a meltdown when you do is essential. Your instructor knows you best and understands your needs and skill level, so trust them to find a horse that's right for you. Try as many horses as you can, and you'll also get a feel for what works for you. Some people like hot horses, and some prefer less forward-going ones. Between you and your instructor, make a choice and then involve a vet to ensure the horse is sound before purchasing. With a thorough approach, you should be able to find the perfect match. This depends on where your horse is and how stringent your stableyard is with hygiene in the paddocks etc. If you're at a yard where new horses come in and out regularly, you'll most likely have to deworm more regularly, so keep that in mind. Horses also have to take different dewormers at different intervals to target an array of parasites. The best way to approach deworming is to send a faecal sample to your vet so they can analyse whether you need to deworm and also tell you which dewormer to use to target the correct parasite with the correct medication. Your stableyard owner or manager should have your horse on a schedule for checking for worms, so it's best to stick to that, and if you have any specific concerns, you can address these with your vet.

My horse really doesn't like dogs and can get quite aggressive when they come near him. Is there anything I can do to make him more comfortable around them?

Horses often have past trauma we are not aware of. It's possible your horse has had a negative experience with dogs and, as a result, has become defensive. If this is the case, you may never wholly relieve him of his fear. Desensitising him to dogs and treating him when he doesn't display an aggressive reaction could help calm him, but you would have to be careful as his aggression could potentially harm the dogs (and you!). Ask someone to help you and get them to bring a dog up to a distance where he is comfortable and slowly start getting closer and closer from there. Don't bring the dog up to him from the front, but rather from the side so he can see them properly. As the dog gets closer and the horse shows no reaction, reward him. If he starts showing aggression, move the dog out of his space and try again from further away. It will take time, but if you keep working on it, you should see an improvement.

My horse has recently started tossing his head. How can I stop him?

If this behaviour is recent, and you've never had this problem before, rule out all veterinary causes as quickly as you can. Sudden head tossing could be due to pain or discomfort. It's also possible an equine dentist needs to come out and have a look at his teeth. A bit fitter is also recommended in situations like these, as they can take a mould of your horse's mouth to determine whether the bit you use is causing the problem. If you've exhausted these options, the problem could be behavioural, related to your saddle, or even the type of work he is doing. For an issue like this, we recommend you consult as many experts as you can.

We have recently changed my horse into a bitless bridle, and he absolutely loves it. He is a different horse. I'd like to keep competing. What disciplines am I allowed to compete in?

You are allowed to compete in showjumping and equitation with a bitless bridle. Certain showing classes are permitted for adults on mares and geldings, including training, newcomer and SASA riding horse showing, and working classes. Eventing allows you to go bitless in the showjumping and cross-country phase, though it must be noted that hackamores are not permitted in the country, but you may attach the reins to your noseband. The dressage phase requires a bit, as per general dressage rules and regulations.