KEEPING A WHITE PONY WHITE

Keeping grey and coloured ponies' white bits even white-ish can become a never-ending battle. Wet mud and stable stains seem to appear out of nowhere, and many of us give up on the idea of ever having a truly white pony again... But if you desperately want to banish the grime and reveal those pearly whites, then read on to learn the best ways to do it...

GRASS AND STABLE STAIN REMOVAL

Some stains from the paddock or stable are more difficult than others to remove, but the secret to success is to deal with them as soon as you see them. The longer stains are left, the harder they are to remove. You have been warned!

Stable stains

Use warm water on all stained areas. The warmer the temperature, the easier it is to lift the stain out. NOTE: Be careful not to use water that is too hot as you could burn your pony!

Wet the stained area with a sponge or spray directly from a hose pipe.

Apply a stain removal spray and massage in well with a massage pad or firm bristled brush. This part is VERY important and will help to loosen the dirt. You must then leave this for a few moments before rinsing off.

For stubborn stains, or before a show or competition, shampoo and massage the area as well before the final rinse.

Grass stains

These can be difficult, but if they are dealt with quickly, they come off more easily. Apply the same method above in the first instance.

On hocks and other areas, where grass stains can be deep-seated, and there may be a more permanent discolouration, a chalk-based whitener will disguise it. This is something that you only need to do for competition or show purposes.

A whitener can be applied by dipping a damp sponge into the powder or by mixing a small amount of the powder and water in a pot and painting it on with a brush. In both cases, allow drying before brushing off any residual powder.

YELLOW TAILS AND MANES

This is a common problem and really depends on how long the urine has been left in the tail. The longer the tail has been unwashed, the harder it will be to get it to go back to its original whiteness. With mares, in particular, urine can stain the tail more easily, and if left for a long time, will absorb into the hair follicle, creating a more permanent stain. However, if washed once a week and conditioned afterwards, the chance of permanent staining of the tail is reduced.

To regain original whiteness may take anything from one good wash to many weeks and months of regular washing and conditioning, so be patient.

How to wash

Immerse the tail in a bucket of warm water and allow to soak for three to four minutes for the hair to really absorb the water. Soak the mane thoroughly with warm water too.

Spray in stain remover is helpful at this stage, particularly if dealing with a lot of discolouration. Apply the stain remover to the tail and/or mane and massage in well. Leave for three to four minutes to let the product soak in before rinsing.

Apply a whitening shampoo. These are made specifically for whitening and brightening and use colouring to help negate the yellow of the stain and bring out the white. Rub in well before rinsing and repeating using warm water.

The next stage is to make up a blue powder rinse. The technique of ‘blueing’ as it is called will enhance the whiteness of any white hair and can be used for manes, tails and all over the body. Follow the instructions that come with the product. Generally, this will involve using a small amount of blue powder mixed in a bucket of water and soaking the mane and tail for a few seconds before giving a final rinse in warm, clear water.

Lastly, apply a mane and tail conditioning lotion. This will provide a barrier against the urine in between the weekly washes. Apply the lotion two or three times a week to ensure no further staining penetrates the hair.

Repeat this washing and whitening procedure each day for the first week for stubborn staining.

FETLOCK STAINS

General white fetlock care

White fetlocks are difficult to keep clean, but with just a bit of effort, they can be returned to pristine condition. It just remains to be seen how long you can keep them this way… For general grass and stable stains on the fetlocks, follow the instructions above. Regarding specific fetlock care, beware of allowing the fetlocks to remain damp for too long, as this can cause skin issues.

Feather care

Keeping thick feathers white and clean takes a massive amount of time and care. But keeping feather hair well looked after will ensure the skin underneath is well cared for too. Wet and muddy conditions will create a haven for bacterial under thick feather hair and can cause sore and cracked skin. Care and maintenance as part of the grooming routine will ensure skin problems will be noticed, so it’s crucial to make feather care a daily part of your routine.

To look after feathers:

Apply a good quality barrier oil to provide protection against water and mud and allow feathers to be brushed through more easily. The addition of flowers of sulphur can also help to keep feather mites at bay.

Keep on top of any stains and remove them daily. Stains that are left will be much harder to remove. Invest in a good quality stain remover and purple shampoo to help lift the stains and prevent new ones.

After washing, it’s quick and easy to dry feathers by using an old-fashioned method involving wood flour. Fluff the flour into the feathers; this will add volume and aid in the drying process as well as help keep the skin healthy.

For added whiteness, especially on show days, use a fine mineral-based whitening powder after applying wood flour. Apply directly to the feathers and work into the hair, brushing out afterwards.

This will also aid in drying and give additional whiteness and volume. The whitening powder can be mixed with water and painted on the leg. Less is more when applying in a wet format.

Finish by applying a spray-in conditioner. This will protect the hair and make it easier to brush through and provide a barrier against dirt and staining.

THE GOLDEN RULES

1. Do a patch test: With greys, and especially those with pinkish skin, you must be careful when introducing new products. Always perform a patch test where you test the shampoo and cleaning products on a small area to check that they don’t irritate and cause problems before applying them to the whole body.

2. Buy decent brushes: Certain bristles will work better for shifting mud and dirt but you will need softer brushes for finishing off and flicking out the remaining dust.

3. Choose sensible rugs: Only rug to protect the white spots, if the weather is suitable. Over-rugging is a welfare issue.

4. Beware household items: Many will advise using household cleaning products to ‘whiten’ your pony, but this is potentially dangerous.

5. Keep on top of the problem. Start a weekly routine and attend to stains as soon as they appear. The sooner you take action, the less you will need to do in the long run.