HUALĀLAI
SUMMER/FALL 2024
Hualālai’s radiant new restaurants and culinary experiences
Reviving Hawai‘i’s Voyaging Traditions
Fabulous Family Homes
Summer Fun with Camp Manitou
Hualälai Realty
AT HUALĀLAI REALTY,
it is our privilege to help you find the perfect Hualālai home. As Hualālai Resort’s exclusive on-site real estate office, we are the experts in this luxury niche market, having closed more than $3 BILLION since 1996.
We focus 100% of our efforts on sales at Hualālai. We look forward to sharing our insights and unique listings with you, and providing incomparable service for all of your real estate needs at the world’s premier residential resort.
Rob Kildow R(B)
Regina Stuard R(B)
Ku’uipo Valenzuela R(S)
C hieko Madenokoji R(S)
Vivian Tobias R(S)
April Carty
E komo mai, welcome: a letter of greetings and good tidings to our Hualālai ‘ohana of residential Members and Resort guests.
6 HUALĀLAI MOMENTS
Indelible images of Hualālai living, from spying tropical species in spectacular King’s Pond to soaking up family time at one of the Resort’s exceptional homes.
THE FRONT NINE
A quick swing through the latest news, views, and happenings at Hualālai.
22 RAISING THE BAR
Thanks to a thoughtful renovation, a beloved Hualālai restaurant is only getting better. BY PHOEBE NEUMAN
28 MILLER & LUX, HAWAI‘I STYLE
Chef Tyler Florence’s renowned steakhouse is the new culinary scene at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai.
BY SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
38
FINDING THEIR WAY
Hawaiians are bringing back the almost lost art of oceanbased star navigation.
BY KEALI‘I THOENE ◗ PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA PACHECO
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ANNA PACHECO; DANA EDMUNDS; MICHAEL LEE; DON RIDDLE
“An elite few can navigate a Hawaiian sailing canoe across the Pacific using only the elements of our natural world for guidance.”
Indoor-outdoor living is easy breezy at a Hualālai enclave’s beautifully designed retreat. BY LORI
BRYAN
◗ PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL
LEE
ROOM WITH A VIEW
For the owners of this Pi‘iuka Estates address, the vistas— and the possibilities—are endless.
Rob Kildow
Director of Residential Sales, Principal Broker
Charlie Parker
Regional Vice President, General Manager
Four Seasons Resort Hualālai
Violet Terawaki
Director of Marketing
Allison Tan
Marketing Coordinator
HUALĀLAI MAGAZINE
Lori Bryan Editor
Mary Franz Art Director
Dora Dalton Copy Editor
Contributing Writers
Sheila Gibson Stoodley
Margaret Kearns
Phoebe Neuman
Kealiʻi Thoene
PUBLISHED BY
Bruce Wallin
bruce.wallin@candrpr.com candrpr.com
ALOHA KĀKOU,
WE ARE THRILLED to once again bring you so many captivating stories that embody the essence of luxury living and cultural richness here at Hualālai.
Our journey begins in this issue of Hualālai magazine with the highly anticipated renovation of ‘Ulu Ocean Grill—a culinary gem that continues to elevate the Resort’s dining experiences with its innovative fl avors and beachfront ambience. We delve further into the restaurant realm as we explore Miller & Lux Hualālai, the masterpiece crafted by acclaimed chef Tyler Florence. The dining destination has quickly become synonymous with excellence since its grand opening in December 2023.
Embark on a voyage of discovery aboard the double-hulled canoe Makali‘ i, led by Pwo navigator Chadd Paishon, as we navigate the celestial pathways that connect Hawaiians to their heritage. Explore the craftsmanship and significance of the lei niho palaoa showcased in Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s lobby: The 19th-century necklace echoes the rich cultural tapestry of the Hawaiian archipelago.
We shine a spotlight on the Drive, Pitch & Putt qualifier that Hualālai will host this October to support the next generation of golfers. We celebrate the artistry of Winnie Logan, whose gourd creations—cultivated in the Resort’s herb garden and dyed and decorated by hand—are as unique as they are exquisite. We quench your thirst for wellness with fresh cold-pressed juices from the Hualālai Trading Company. And we revitalize with Eminence Organic Skin Care, whose products are not just a beauty regimen available at Hualālai Spa but a commitment to people and the environment: The company plants a tree for each product sold and, through the Eminence Kids Foundation, donates organic foods to children with serious illnesses.
Also making a difference for kids is Hualālai’s Camp Manitou, now in its eighth year. The summer program will have the Resort’s junior Members and guests kayaking, stargazing, and more. Grown-ups can join in the fun, too, with the camp’s customized trips for families. And don’t miss the Queen Lili‘uokalani Canoe Race, which will bring together paddlers from around the world in a celebration of tradition and athleticism. Our Member community comes together in many ways. We’re delighted to share with you some of the special events at the Hualālai Club, from the Hualālai Members Invitational golf tournament to the Pacific Heritage Series featuring speakers who educate and entertain us about island customs. Finally, we take you inside a home in our community, highlighting the beauty of the indoor-outdoor lifestyle.
Discover the heart and soul of Hualālai. We invite you to immerse yourself in the stories that defi ne our community and embrace the spirit of aloha that permeates every page.
Mahalo nui loa,
Hualālai
72-100 Ka‘ūpūlehu Drive Kailua-Kona, HI 96740
808.325.8500 hualalairealty.com
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES
Charlie Parker
Regional Vice President, General Manager, Four Seasons Resort Hualālai
Rob Kildow
Director of Residential Sales, Principal Broker, Hualālai Realty
UNDERWATER WORLD
Snorkeling alongside more than 1,000 tropical fish in crystal clear King’s Pond.
FIRESIDE CHAT
Socializing by the firepit before sunset at the Members-only Ke‘olu Clubhouse.
HOME GAME
Playing in the pool and soaking up the sun at a Hualālai family’s private retreat.
A QUICK SWING THROUGH THE LATEST NEWS, VIEWS, AND HAPPENINGS AT HUALĀLAI
1
DIVING INTO SUMMER
Camp Manitou at Hualālai is where keiki (children) ages 9 to 17 can make a splash this summer. Now in its eighth year, the program, which this season runs July 1 to August 25, will once again provide adventures for the Resort’s junior Members and guests of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. Single- and multi-day activities include visits to beaches, lava tubes, and waterfalls; snorkeling and kayaking tours; and stargazing excursions at Mauna Kea. Community service projects benefiting Pu‘u Wa‘awa‘a Forest Reserve and Nāpu‘u Conservation Area— where participants will plant koa trees and contribute to Nāpu‘u’s reforestation efforts—are new this summer, as is an overnight camping trip to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Camp Manitou’s director, Tristan Hewat, says customized day trips are also available for families looking to spend quality time together. 808.325.8135
To see the activities schedule and enroll, visit campmanitou-fs.com.
Tee It Up 2
Plans are underway for the 2025 Hualālai Members Invitational , which this year was held February 7–10 and celebrated some fi rsts. For the fi rst time, tournament play took place on the Members-only Ke‘olu Golf Course and on the Hualālai Golf Course, attracting a record number of players in the men’s and women’s divisions, according to Brendan Moynahan, the Resort’s director of golf. “We also had the fi rst hole in one made during tournament play, by Member Larry Kantor on Ke‘olu’s 15th hole,” Moynahan says. The event began with a welcome reception and concluded with an awards dinner at the Ke‘olu Clubhouse. Congratulations to 2024’s fi rst-place teams— Members Helen Guiltinan and Kathy Meier, and Member Edward Im and Aldarra Golf Club’s Luke Easterly—and to the winners of the putting competition, Member Tom Windler and Silver Creek Valley Country Club’s Joey Windler. 808.896.9566
Homegrown Art 3
On Thursdays from 8 a.m. to noon, Hualālai Members and guests will fi nd a Kona-based artist displaying her spectacular creations on the lānai at the Hualālai Trading Company. Hand-carved ipu (gourds) by Winnie Logan are a labor of love and patience, according to the artist. “I love carving; it’s very meditative for me,” she says. “It started as a hobby 10 years ago, then grew into a passion.” The creative process does indeed require patience, as it takes two to three months to fi nish each ipu—not including the time needed to cultivate gourds from seed. Steps include designing and carving; keeping the ipu fi lled with Kona coffee for four to five weeks and allowing the color to migrate from the inside, through the hard shell, to the outer skin; letting the ipu dry; and, fi nally, sanding and applying a fi nish inside and out. Logan expresses gratitude to John Palos, Hualālai’s landscape manager, as several of the ipu she carved were grown at the Resort from seeds that she provided. She grows most of her ipu at home and on a friend’s Kailua-Kona coffee farm. She credits veteran carver Karen Root, of Ipu Arts in Holualoa, for mentoring her in the Hawaiian art of ipu pawehe over the years. 808.325.8515
ROYAL REGATTA 4
The annual Queen Lili‘uokalani Canoe Race returns to Hawai‘i Island August 29 to September 2. Hualālai’s own Alaka‘i Nalu (Leaders of the Waves) achieved their best finish at their last appearance in the race, in the Men’s Open division in 2022, when they placed fifth overall.
“We love the competition,” says the Alaka‘i Nalu’s Daniel Perez, “but for us, it’s all about having fun and celebrating outrigger canoe paddling’s historic significance here in the islands, and the fact that it’s our state’s official team sport.” Founded in 1972, the race follows an 18-mile path between Kailua-Kona and Hōnaunau, and it attracts teams from Hawai‘i’s prestigious canoe clubs, from the U.S. mainland, and from countries around the world, including Australia, Canada, Japan, and New Zealand. More than 1,700 paddlers are expected to participate in this year’s Queen Lili‘uokalani—now the world’s largest long-distance canoe 808.325.8490
SWINGING INTO ACTION
The Hualālai Golf Course will host Southwest PGA Junior Golf’s final 2024 Regional Qualifier for the Drive, Chip & Putt Championship on October 20. “This is the last chance for junior golfers from Southern California, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and Hawai‘i to clinch a spot in the Drive, Chip & Putt National Finals at the Masters in Augusta,” says Brendan Moynahan, director of golf. “We’ve hosted Hawai‘i Island juniors here in prior years to determine who will move on to that final step, but this is our first time hosting regionals.” He anticipates
that 80 to 90 juniors spread over four age groups (7–9, 10–11, 12–13, and 14–15) will compete in the one-day Drive, Chip & Putt challenge. Players will accumulate points for the best of three balls in each of those categories. The 16th, 17th, and 18th holes will see action—driving on 16, chipping on 17, and putting on 18. “We’re excited to host, and we hope to see another player from Hawai‘i take a trophy in Augusta next year,” Moynahan says. “Last year, Leo Saito from Hilo took top honors in the 12–13 age group at the prestigious event.” 808.896.9566
LEI OF THE LAND 6
One of many treasured artifacts showcased at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai is this lei niho palaoa (circa 1820–1850). Worn by Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty), such necklaces featured carved ivory pendants— carved originally from sperm-whale teeth and later walrus tusks—suspended by plaited strands of human hair. This example, which appears in the hotel lobby, contains 2,000 strands and likely took many years to make. It is 13 inches long and 8 inches wide, and the two plaits are 2.75 inches in diameter. The pendant suggests the shape of a tongue, referring to the oratory of the ali‘i. The ivory’s scarcity and connection to Kanaloa, god of the sea, brought mana (spiritual power) to the wearer, as did the hairs’ ancestral roots. The lei is part of the impressive art collection displayed throughout Four Seasons Resort Hualālai—precious works curated by art consultant Julie Cline and maintained by O‘ahu native and longtime Hawai‘i Island resident Murti Vinayaga. 808.325.8467
Crème de la Crème 7
Hualālai Spa prides itself on using and offering premium natural skin-care products such as Eminence Organic Skin Care. The company—whose president, Boldijarre Koronczay, is an aesthetician and the philanthropist-founder of the Eminence Kids Foundation—sources fresh, organically farmed ingredients to create products that are free of harsh chemicals. Eminence items available at Hualālai Spa, according to the skin-care brand’s key account manager, Catherina Kovacs, include the Firm Skin Acai Cleanser, Strawberry Rhubarb Masque, Arctic Berry Peptide Radiance Cream, and Coconut Age Corrective Moisturizer. For every product sold, Eminence plants a tree, and Koronczay’s Eminence Kids Foundation donates organic foods to children with serious illnesses around the world. 808.325.8440
www.hualalairesort.com, 808.325.4765
A TOAST TO WELLNESS 8
Cold-pressed juices at the Hualālai Trading Company are so popular with Resort Members and guests that the general store has added a new version of its fresh-squeezed beverages to its menu: wellness shots. The three-ounce shots come in rotating flavors and blends, including ginger-turmeric and green apple–ginger. Fans of the Trading Company’s coldpressed juices will find 11 flavors (also on a rotating basis) in 12-, 16-, and 20-ounce sizes. Those in highest demand, according to department head Michael Munoz, are the Pineapple Express (apple, lemon, kale, and pineapple) and the Green Machine (kale, celery, cucumber, green apple, lemon, lime, and ginger). Cheers! 808.325.8515
Island Perspectives 9
Early 2025 will bring the next wave of Pacific Heritage Series programs to Members of the Hualālai Club. This special series, which debuted in 2001, highlights acclaimed experts who share Hawai‘i’s rich history and culture, as well as their thoughts on the future of the islands. Past topics have ranged from architecture and storytelling to celestial navigation and traditional
music and dance. Speakers have included Gavan Daws, the renowned Hawai‘i historian; the late Jim Kauahikaua, an esteemed volcanologist; best-selling author and travel writer Paul Theroux; and sailing canoe voyager Chadd Paishon. Earlier this year, John O’Meara, chief scientist and deputy director of the W. M. Keck Observatory, shared his insights on the future
of astronomy. This year’s lineup also included a special performance by Moses Goods (pictured below), who has traveled the world with Duke, his original show about the beloved Hawaiian waterman Duke Kahanamoku. Hualālai Members and their guests enjoy complimentary access to the Pacific Heritage Series, which takes place twice a year. 808.325.8467
FACES OF HUALĀLAI
The many and multitalented Hualālai staff strive to make your every stay spectacular, and their methods are as unique and compelling as their personalities. Here, we catch up with two members of our Hualālai family—our ‘ohana—whose efforts at the Resort go above and beyond.
> Just as he doesn’t remember when he took his first breath, Kane Dela Cruz doesn’t remember when he first swam or fished or sank his toes into the sand. The Hawai‘i native, now 39, says that he and his four siblings spent their childhood on the water. “We went to the beach a lot. To go fishing, have fun, as far as I can remember. I grew up on the outdoors.”
That background helped prepare him to join the Alaka‘i Nalu (Leaders of the Waves) at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai 16 years ago as a crew member. The 13-person team oversees all forms of water-based recreation at the Resort, from snorkeling and paddleboarding to fishing, whale-watching cruises, and more. Dela Cruz has since been promoted to supervisor and is boat captain of the 46-foot six-seater Alaka‘i Nui (which in Hawaiian means “great leader”), but when he applied for the initial job, he had to undergo a few trials. He recalls having to complete a 1,000yard swim and perform another test involving a five-pound weight: In waters 20 feet deep, he had to tread water for two minutes while holding the weight, then drop it and
swim down to retrieve it.
But what probably put Dela Cruz over the top for Employee of the Year was a different set of skills learned in childhood: “They call me the MacGyver of the department. If it’s broken, I fix it and make it better than it was,” he says, noting that he enjoyed taking apart his toys as a boy, and his father was a mechanic and a construction worker who encouraged his interests.
almost everything about them: their kids’ names, where they graduated college, their anniversary, their dog’s name, where they like to sit.” Pritchett literally laughs off the notion that she is a master of feats of memory. “It just happens normally.”
“I do love my job, and I love the people I work with here. It’s very special, and not something you get everywhere.”
—TAYLOR PRITCHETT
Not long ago, Dela Cruz noticed that a crew member stationed on the beach to help guests move in and out of the water had an umbrella for shade but needed something more. So, he built a canopy out of PVC pipes and black fabric for his colleague. “It’s a simple thing, stuff like that, to make it easier and more convenient. That’s just how I am,” he says. “I wasn’t told anything. I just wanted to have it better. I kind of look at [the Resort] as my own house—always trying to improve it.”
—SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
> Though she doesn’t see Wilbur as often as she used to, Taylor Pritchett always remembers his usual order. One of four permanent waitstaff at Ke‘olu, a restaurant for Members of Hualālai Resort, Pritchett looks forward to welcoming her regulars. “He likes ice in his water, especially when he’s sitting poolside.” Asked if she recalls his breed, she says, “I’m pretty sure he’s a French bulldog.”
“They call me the MacGyver of the department. If it’s broken, I fix it and make it better than it was.”
— KANE DELA CRUZ
Pritchett excels in her work at Ke‘olu because she recalls the standing orders of every Member, whether they have two legs or four. “There are a little over 350 Members, and [their] family, friends, and kids,” she says. “I get to know pretty much every single one of the Members, and I remember
The 27-year-old Hawai‘i native was first hired at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai in June 2019 as a server at another Members-only restaurant, the Hualālai Canoe Club, spending four-and-a-half years there. Not long after she received Employee of the Month honors in February 2023, a manager moved to the recreation department and invited her to come with him and take a position as a supervisor. “I followed him there to see if management would be something I’m interested in,” she says. “But I was away from the club, and I wasn’t able to serve tables anymore. I missed being with Members and serving them in the restaurant.”
In February 2024, she returned to the work for which she has since received another award, Employee of the Year, this time at Ke‘olu. “I do love my job, and I love the people I work with here. It’s very special, and not something you get everywhere,” she says. “It’s nothing but pure happiness, really.” —S.G.S.
Renovations to ‘Ulu Ocean Grill will take a beloved Hualālai restaurant to the next level.
BY PHOEBE NEUMAN RENDERINGS BY EDG
erched on the soft sands of Kumukea Beach, ‘Ulu Ocean Grill has long served as the beating heart of Hualālai’s award-winning culinary program. The restaurant is a favorite of Members and guests, who, after lounging on the beach or splashing in the ocean pool, gather there for cocktails and ultra-fresh poke bowls prepared tableside. Simply put, it is a microcosm of Hualālai Resort, where stunning sunsets and world-class dining go hand in hand.
But after the conclusion of a resortwide renovation in 2021, it was time to think about ‘Ulu’s next chapter, according to Charlie Parker, Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s regional vice president, general manager. “As part of the renovation of the property, we always had plans to update ‘Ulu’s second floor,” Parker explains. “After completing the first phase of the project, we took a step back to make sure we were doing something really special with that space and ‘Ulu at large.”
Enter Noio (pronounced “noo-yoo”), ‘Ulu’s edgier counterpart. The intimate omakase-style sushi concept is expected to debut in the second-floor space in December.
“We wanted to offer an ultra-
curated dining experience unlike anything on the island.”
— Charlie Parker, Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s regional vice president, general manager
‘Ulu’s edgier counterpart, Noio—an intimate omakase-style sushi concept
Designed by the Novato, Calif.–based firm EDG, the new restaurant will have 70 seats, including a 12-person omakase bar providing just two seatings a night. “We wanted to offer an ultra-curated dining experience unlike anything on the island,” Parker says. To that end, the EDG team plans to make the most of the space. Inside, guests waiting to be seated will sip cocktails in a dedicated lounge. Outside, the footprint of an existing deck will be expanded into a sweeping lānai serving up some of the best coastline views on the property— and what are sure to be some of Hualālai’s most coveted tables.
Noio—which borrows its name from a shoreline bird, commonly known as the black noddy, that is used by Hawaiian people for navigation (a noio spotted on a long journey indicates that land is near)—will build on the hyperlocal culinary program found throughout Hualālai. Members and guests can expect daily menus of local seafood and ingredients curated by Nuri Piccio, the chef who leads ‘Ulu’s sushi efforts. “We have such a great sushi team already in place at ‘Ulu, and we wanted to create a space to allow them to do what they do best,” Parker says.
Don’t worry—sushi will remain a staple downstairs. “The Four Seasons culinary team is planning to refresh the menu,” he says, “and will retain sushi on the ‘Ulu menu for our guests and Members.”
As for the rest of the space? The renovation (also led by EDG) will see ‘Ulu’s always-busy bar continue to take center stage, with a new lounge deck facing the water. The interiors will get a facelift as well. Think fresh light woods to replace the restaurant’s current mahogany decor, and art walls to add a high-energy modern coastal feel. “We really envision the two spaces complementing each other, with Noio being the yin to ‘Ulu’s yang,” says Parker.
The renovation, which will kick off in July, will see ‘Ulu close for sit-down service before reopening alongside Noio by the end of the year. Though regulars needn’t fret: The restaurant’s signature sushi will be available during the renovation on the edge of King’s Pond, complemented by a selection of robatayaki (fireside grilled) meats and local vegetables, at Sushi and Robata by ‘Ulu.
—is expected to debut in the second-floor space in December.
MILLER & LUX Hawai‘i Style
Chef Tyler Florence brings a permanent outpost of his super-refined steakhouse to Four Seasons Resort Hualālai.
BY SHEILA GIBSON STOODLEY
Chef Tyler Florence (center), creator of Miller & Lux Hualālai, is flanked by the restaurant’s executive chef, Kelsey Coulson (left), and sous chef, Dylan Ghadiri (right).
The rosette ravioli (opposite) features lemon ricotta, Waimea tomato passata, Parmesan, and garden basil.
Hualālai’s former Miller & Lux pop-up restaurant, an offshoot of Chef Tyler Florence’s renowned steakhouse of the same name in San Francisco, was simply too successful to be shuttered. Not only have the culinary delights of that 2022 Festive Season pop-up returned, but they’ve been made a fixture at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. In December 2023, Chef Florence’s distinctive dining experience officially joined the Resort’s roster of esteemed restaurants as Miller & Lux Hualālai.
“We’re so thrilled to have brought the restaurant back permanently,” says Chef Florence, who first gained wide renown on the Food Network. “I’ve been a longtime fan of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, so it’s amazing to be able to have my first restaurant in Hawai‘i be here.”
Kelsey Coulson, originally from Vancouver, Canada, is the on-site executive chef at Miller & Lux Hualālai, having come over from the mainland as a member of Chef Florence’s pop-up team. For her part, she is not surprised to see the steakhouse become a Four Seasons Resort Hualālai staple. “The overwhelmingly positive feedback we received following the pop-up allowed us to dive into making the concept a permanent restaurant at the Resort.”
Miller & Lux Hualālai focused on achieving a difficult balance: bringing the ultra-refined atmosphere of the original to the relaxed environs of Hawai‘i. Like their counterparts at the San Francisco mother ship, the staff irons the table linens before service, as well as between services when resetting a table. As Coulson sees it, the steakhouse provides fine-dining service, innovative dishes, and the highest-quality steaks—fitting complements to Hualālai’s easygoing sophistication and Hawaiian warmth. “While at Hualālai, our guests are relaxed and connected to each other and our destination,” reflects Coulson. “We strive to provide our signature American steakhouse in this luxury Hawaiian resort atmosphere.”
Attaining such casual elegance takes a targeted approach, according to Chef Florence. “One of the
The ocean-view dining room blends Miller & Lux’s upscale ambience with a laid-back island feel.
“I’ve
been a longtime fan of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, so it’s amazing to be able to have my first restaurant in Hawai‘i be here.”
— Chef Tyler Florence
Dishes not to be missed at Miller & Lux Hualālai include (clockwise from below) the 46-ounce prime dry-aged Black Angus tomahawk steak; Kona lobster thermidor with creamy chardonnay sauce, herbed breadcrumb, and grilled lemon; and crispy chicken piccata with lemon, caper, cauliflower, and asparagus.
things that makes Miller & Lux feel luxurious, before you even get into decor, is that the staff is crosstrained from San Francisco to Hawai‘i for expert, attentive service,” he says. “We also brought in our designer, Elizabeth Rose Jackson, who has the most amazing way of reimagining spaces to fit into the surroundings. She did a spectacular job here, blending the upscale Miller & Lux vibe with that laid-back island atmosphere.”
More than half of the dishes available in San Francisco are offered at Miller & Lux Hualālai, including the burger that Michelin deemed the “best burger in California,” the truffle deviled eggs, the 46-ounce dry-aged tomahawk steak, the Dover sole, the chicken piccata, and the Kaluga caviar appetizer with whipped crème fraîche, potato chips, and chives. Other delights made the journey from San Francisco with minor tweaks. The beef tenderloin in the steak tartare at Miller & Lux Hualālai is sourced locally. And the Hawaiian version of the Caesar salad—a showstopper prepared tableside—gives many island products a chance to shine.
“Our guests want to try many things on the menu while they are with us.”
— Kelsey Coulson, Executive Chef
The noted Caesar, in addition to featuring local farm-fresh quail eggs and Hawaiian sea salt, highlights two types of romaine lettuce: the Newham and Dragoon varieties, grown at Hirabara Farms in Waimea specifically for the restaurant. Once the leafy plants reach a height of six inches, they are delivered with their roots intact, which helps keep them fresh. They are tucked into a terracotta planter on the Miller & Lux Hualālai serving cart. The staff member who prepares the salad tableside uses a pair of sharp black tailoring shears to cut the romaine heads, which tumble into the bowl.
Certain aspects of the Miller & Lux experience are exclusive to Hawai‘i, of course. Some are practical: Coulson notes that smaller portions of steak, such as a bone-in rib eye for one, have been introduced to better suit guests’ needs. “Our guests want to try many things on the menu while they are with us,” she says.
Sustainably farmed Kona lobster and Kaua‘i shrimp make appearances on the menu, as do side dishes of
THE TOAST OF HAWAI‘I
The mouthwatering M&L Crystal Mai Tai—a new addition to the Miller & Lux Hualālai cocktail menu—is a Chef Tyler Florence creation. He kindly shared the recipe, which will allow you to impress up to eight thirsty guests in festive Hawaiian style. —S.G.S.
Ingredients
n ¾ cup light rum
n ¾ cup gold rum
n ¾ cup pineapple rum
n ½ cup coconut rum
n ½ cup dark rum
n ½ cup orange curaçao
n ½ cup orgeat
n 3 bags jasmine tea
n 1 orange
n ¾ cup lime juice
n 1 cup pineapple juice
n 1½ cups whole milk (not ultra-pasteurized)
Method
Steep the tea bags in a cup of hot water. Juice the orange. Pour the brewed tea, orange juice, and all other ingredients except the milk into a large container. Stir to combine. Add the milk to the container—do not stir—and set aside for at least two hours at room temperature.
Slowly pour the entire mixture through a tea cloth or a paper-towel-lined strainer over a container. Once the stream coming through the strainer starts to come out clear (initially it will be cloudy), move the strainer to a new container and pour the cloudy mixture back into the strainer to refilter. Let the mixture sit over the container and filter until it stops.
Bottle and enjoy. It will yield about eight six-ounce cocktails, and it keeps for over a year in the fridge.
Signature cocktails and chicly comfortable seating are hallmarks of the casually elegant bar.
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creamed Hirabara kale and ali‘i mushrooms.
“Our entire dessert menu is unique to Hawai‘i,” Chef Florence says. “We’ve taken classic steakhouse dishes like bananas foster, which we make tableside with local bananas, and also serve amazing banana bread that pastry chef Lisa Siu makes, finished with Tahitian vanilla ice cream and rum. One of our other signatures is the seven-layer coconut cake that is only in this location; it’s a smash hit.”
The most popular dish at Miller & Lux Hualālai, according to Coulson, is a collaboration of hers and Chef Florence’s that showcases Kona lobster: the Crispy Lobster Louie that appears under the Raw Bar section of the menu, which she says Chef Florence has deemed “a banger.” “It’s exciting to see how
much people love it,” she says. “To hear the server describe the dish with such enthusiasm and to see our guests enjoying the dish—it’s gratifying.”
Guests are fans of the restaurant’s vegan creations, too. The restaurants at Four Seasons Resort Hualālai have vegan menus, and Miller & Lux Hualālai is no exception, despite being an elite steakhouse. And it does indeed have a separate vegan menu, not just a vegan option listed on the main menu. Beet “tartare” tacos, ali‘i mushroom polenta, Caesar salad, and black truffle French fries are among the vegan offerings.
Chef Florence says he intends to travel to Miller & Lux Hualālai about six times a year to work on-site, and he is in daily contact with Coulson and her team. The emotion that radiates from both chefs is sheer delight.
“We love Hawai‘i, and we’re so excited to be here permanently,” Chef Florence says. “It’s amazing to be able to do what we do while celebrating the good times, the sunsets, the family gatherings, grandchildren, and more. It’s such a luxurious destination, but it’s amazing to be on property where you can be yourself, relax, and have a world-class dining experience. It’s food culture and ‘ohana at its best.”
Executive Chef Kelsey Coulson says guests are relaxed and connected to Hualālai.
HAWAIIANS ARE REVIVING THE NEARLY LOST ART OF NONINSTRUMENTAL NAVIGATION.
BY KEALIʻI THOENE
■ PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA PACHECO
he wind blew the famous kīpu‘ upu ‘ u (misty rain) sideways into the entrance of the Waimea coffee shop as Chadd ‘Ōnohi Paishon stepped inside. He smiled warmly and waved at a toddler clinging to her mom’s leg. The little girl beamed back at Paishon, taking an immediate liking to him but not realizing the depth of their connection.
“That little baby in that store—her mom was that age when I first met her,” Paishon recalls. “That mom’s father was a member of one of the five organizations that helped build the Makali‘i.”
The voyaging canoe Makali‘i is the work of Nā Kālai Wa‘a—led by expert sailor and Pwo navigator Chadd ‘Ōnohi Paishon (opposite)—a nonprofit devoted to preserving the ancient Hawaiian art of starbased, noninstrumental wayfinding.
The celebrated voyaging canoe Makali ‘ i is the work of a nonprofit, Nā Kālai Wa‘a (nakalaiwaa.org), that Paishon, in his roles as executive director and senior captain, helps run. The organization was founded by brothers Clay and Milton (“Shorty”) Bertelmann, who were determined to ensure the teaching of a wa‘a (canoe) way of life to anyone interested in learning. Nā Kālai Wa‘a, which means “canoe builders,” is devoted to perpetuating the tradition of Hawaiian canoe sailing, and Paishon is eminently qualified to be at the helm. He is part of an elite few who can navigate a Hawaiian sailing canoe across the Pacific—the most massive ocean on the planet Earth—using only the elements of our natural world for guidance. Paishon’s knowledge helped keep noninstrumental navigation alive when the practice teetered on the precipice of extinction.
estern influences and colonial powers in Hawai‘i did not value Hawaiian ‘ike kūpuna (ancestral knowledge), and starting in the 19th century, Hawai‘i suffered through a period of systemic stifl ing of most of its traditions and lifeways. A cultural renaissance in the 1970s led by kānaka maoli (native Hawaiians) brought significant aspects of Hawaiian culture—language, music, song, dance, and science—back into practice.
One of the leaders of that renaissance, the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS), built the deep-sea voyaging canoe Hōkūle‘a . The intent was to sail roughly 2,500 miles to Tahiti, along the ancestral sea route, without the use of compasses or computer navigation systems. After a nearly 600-year hiatus for this type of travel, the 1976 voyage set out to prove that Hawaiians did not drift to Hawai‘i by some miraculous fluke: Kānaka were descendants of the most tactical and talented sailors in the history of humankind.
The problem was, Hawaiians had lost the knowledge of noninstrumental navigation. One of the few remaining people with this skill set hailed from a tiny Micronesian atoll. Master navigator Mau Piailug eventually agreed to train PVS members. In 1976, Piailug sailed on Hōkūle‘a’s maiden voyage to Tahiti, and he continued to educate people in the ensuing years.
The fact that Paishon became a student—with his own apprenticeship on Hōkūle‘a—was a stroke of fate.
He was a musician gigging at a bar in Honolulu throughout the 1980s when Nainoa Thompson, a crew member on Hōkūle‘a ’s maiden voyage, visited the bar, struck up a friendship, and ultimately invited Paishon to
Students in Nā
program learn the many facets of noninstrumental navigation, practicing hands-on skills aboard
and studying the stars to map the skies and chart
Kālai Wa‘a’s
Makali‘i
ocean courses.
study the stars with him. By 1990, Paishon was an apprentice navigator for the PVS. He spent years soaking up the knowledge that had been lost to most people in Hawai‘i, and the lessons he learned extended beyond the canoe; the reawakening of ancestral knowledge altered his entire worldview.
“It’s not just about being on a canoe and being out there on the ocean,” says Paishon. “For us to be able to do that, we need to be connected to what’s taking place here on the moku [island]. So, we gotta pay as much attention to what’s happening in our forests as to what is taking place on the ocean for us to truly understand the scope of what our ancestors had, and what they were able to do because of what they did have.”
In 2007, Piailug, the master navigator, inducted five members of the PVS into the prestigious Pwo, a society
of deep-sea navigators that dates back 2,000 years. One of these five was Paishon.
he founding goal of the now 31-year-old nonprofit that Paishon leads was to build a voyaging canoe for the island of Hawai‘i. Before fulfilling that objective, members of Nā Kālai Wa‘a, under the guidance of Mau Piailug, constructed Mauloa, a four-man outrigger fishing canoe built entirely in the traditional manner with pre-European-contact tools and materials. After Mauloa’s completion, Nā Kālai Wa‘a began work on the wa‘a kaulua (double-hulled canoe) Makali‘i in 1995. Makali‘i was built incredibly fast, in just nine months. Paishon attributes the speed of the build to community cohesion. Five native Hawaiian organizations coalesced to get the work done.
“We came to understand the resource of community,
EXPLORING NEW DIRECTIONS
Want to learn more about Hawai‘i’s canoe sailing traditions? The answers are written in the stars.
Members and guests of Hualālai Resort need not travel far to visit the hālau wa‘a star compass near Kalaemanō Cultural Reserve (kalaemano.com), which has a selfguided interpretive trail. The site is close to the Resort’s entrance on Ka‘ūpūlehu Drive, but before heading out, go to the Nā Kālai Wa‘a website (nakalaiwaa.org) to obtain permission for your visit. Then, exit the Resort, turn left onto Kalaemanō Drive (just before Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway), and continue to the guard gate, where the staff will greet you. Remember to pack lots of water and sun protection, as there are few opportunities for shade in the kaha lands of Ka‘ūpūlehu. —K.T.
ANDREW RICHARD HARA
Makali‘i’s student sailors use a star compass (below) near the Kalaemanō Cultural Reserve, which supports Nā Kālai Wa‘a and its wayfinding education of new navigators.
not so much in money, but the resource of people coming together to work together and do everything together,” says Paishon. “Being able to build a voyaging canoe in nine months—still, to this day, unheard of.”
Nā Kālai Wa‘a explored sites that would allow for educational programming, and the dark night skies of historic Ka‘ūpūlehu seemed like the perfect environment. Hualālai Resort, located at Ka‘ūpūlehu, teamed up with the nonprofit. Nā Kālai Wa‘a built a hālau wa‘a (longhouse for canoes) for Mauloa where Four Seasons Resort Hualālai’s
Alaka‘i Nalu (Leaders of the Waves) are headquartered today. A Hawaiian star compass was aligned and fixed to the ground for use in teaching students how to map the night skies.
Nā Kālai Wa‘a dedicated itself to youth programming to ensure that this sophisticated knowledge would not merely survive but multiply. Violet Terawaki, director of marketing for Hualālai, remembers when students came to the Resort to study the heavens. “They would stay overnight to read the constellations and to learn,” says Terawaki, who is proud of the program’s success stories. “A lot of the students that were coming have doctorates and have become successful as professionals and contributing citizens for Hawai‘i.”
Today, the education of new navigators continues. The hālau wa‘a and the star compass still reside at Ka‘ūpūlehu but are in an area with darker night skies; visitors will find them at Kalaemanō Cultural Reserve just north of Hualālai Resort. Nā Kālai Wa‘a offers its educational programs at Māhukona, in North Kohala. It is an ideal location, next to Ko‘a Heiau Holomoana, a historic training ground for navigators. The site’s massive stones are meticulously arranged upright for navigators’ use in mapping the night sky and delineating ocean pathways to distant islands.
Such paths connect all Hawaiians, including Paishon and the little girl in the coffee shop. When she is grown, she may stand on the deck of a wa‘a kaulua, like her ancestors did, and sail past the horizon. Thanks to Paishon and those who came before him, she will meet the moment with confidence, knowing that everything she needs to navigate the unknown is already inside her.
LIKE A DREAM
A home’s pod-style design and impeccable details are a Hualālai family’s wishes fulfilled.
BY LORI BRYAN n PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL LEE
For the new owners of this pristine property in Hualālai’s Pi‘iuka Estates enclave, hosting will be a breeze. The ocean-view home—which came on the market in April for $10.5 million and sold within a week of being listed— boasts four luxurious bedrooms suites, each set within its own pod-style structure. The stand-alone pods, accessed through a central courtyard, afford residents and guests both privacy and proximity to the meticulous grounds (the lot exceeds 36,000 square feet), including a spacious covered lānai, an infinity-edge swimming pool, and a built-in barbecue station. Designed by Brett Wittemore Ritchie of GT Design and built by GM Construction, the home is a testament to the beauty of effortless indoor-outdoor living. Whether lounging poolside, dining alfresco, or simply taking in the vistas of the Kohala coast and the Members-only Ke‘olu Golf Course, family and friends will want for nothing.
ALL TOGETHER NOW
When it’s time to gather, there’s no better place than the home’s distinctive great room. The property’s owners and their guests can mingle in the invitingly elegant space, where the thoughtful, open layout also makes it easy to fan out. Sleek gray floor tiles from Florim appear here and elsewhere in the residence, as do warm accents of African mahogany in window frames and both sliding and swing doors. Retracting the great room’s sliding glass doors merges the living and kitchen spaces with their outdoor counterparts, leading directly to the expansive covered lānai and adjacent barbecue station.
like a dream
ISLAND TIME
A dining table on the covered lānai provides the perfect setting for leisurely meals prepared in the home’s gourmet kitchen (shown here and on the previous spread). From the Florim floor tiles to the Atlantic basalt stone wall cladding, the space is sleek, sophisticated, and set up to facilitate food prep in the most satisfying of surrounds.
Bar-style seating on the living-area side of the substantial kitchen island makes it easy for family and friends to pull up a chair and visit with the chef. Aesthetic highlights include white oak cabinetry from Aristocratic Cabinets and countertops of Cambria Ella polished quartz. Suspended from the vaulted ceiling is a trio of pendant lights by Kelly Wearstler.
THE SPACE IS SLEEK, SOPHISTICATED, AND SET UP TO FACILITATE FOOD PREP IN THE MOST SATISFYING OF SURROUNDS.
EACH SUITE IS IN ITS OWN FREESTANDING POD, PROVIDING PRIVACY THAT MAKES EVERYONE FEEL AT HOME.
PEACE IN A POD
Each of the property’s well-appointed suites is in its own freestanding pod, providing the kind of privacy that makes everyone—residents and guests—feel at home. The four bedrooms have relaxing en suite bathrooms, and the primary en suite bath (shown) affords a luxuriant soaking tub, a black mosaic tile floor with Brazilian slate and Atlantic basalt accents, and pocket doors that lead to an outdoor garden. Window frames are African mahogany and wall coverings are by Mark Alexander. Rounding out the serene space is a private lānai with Pacific Ocean views.
BEAUTIFUL SIGHT
Ideally situated, the home has incredible sight lines. The views are stellar from everywhere on the property, especially the infinity-edge pool. Whether taking a dip or lounging on the adjacent deck, the owners and their guests will want to linger—to soak up vistas of the 14th hole of the Keʻolu Golf Course, the dramatic lava-rock-lined Kohala coast, and the seemingly endless ocean. When ready, they can venture out to the Members-only Keʻolu Clubhouse, or to the various ocean adventures with the Resort’s Alakaʻi Nalu, or to any of the other Hualālai amenities and experiences on their wish list.
THE VIEWS ARE STELLAR FROM EVERYWHERE ON THE PROPERTY, ESPECIALLY THE INFINITY-EDGE POOL.
room with a view
HOME STRETCH
The sweeping vistas at 72-115 Piʻiuka Street extend to the deep-blue horizon, creating the sublime sense that all of Hawaiʻi is on your doorstep. Just off the Hualālai home’s covered lānai, across an expanse of lush lawn, lies the infinity pool, where you can soak up views of the Kohala coast, Maui, and the 14th tee box of the Membersonly Keʻolu Golf Course. There’s also a built-in barbecue station that’s especially handy when hosting alfresco gatherings. When it’s time to leave the lānai and retire to the indoors, continue to enjoy beautiful views from every space within the pod-style, four-bedroom residence. Designed with large glass sliding and swing doors throughout, the home (recently listed for $10.5 million and under contract at press time) opens generously to the outside and feels blissfully close to the Pacific’s blue edge. Hualālai Realty, 808.325.8500
MILLER & LUX HUALĀLAI
Dinner 5:00 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.
Lounge 5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Incorporating influence from its local Hawaiian surrounds, Miller & Lux Hualalai showcases a menu of inventive dishes alongside top selections of fresh game including Filet Mignon, New York Strip, Wagyu Tomahawk, and a finite daily selection of Kalua Pork. Guests can also enjoy several Miller & Lux signature items including tableside Caesar Salad for two, Miller & Lux Steak Tartare with tarragon mayonnaise, Miller & Lux Burger, and more. An award-winning wine list will be available for guests, complemented by the addition of seasonal cocktails from the team at Miller & Lux to pair with each dish. Dinner reservations recommended.
