The Eye Beach, Village + Urban Living in Oaxaca December, 2015 Issue 53 FREE
MEZCALERIA
MAXCAAL: ZAPOTEC WORD THAT MEANS MEZCAL. MAXCAAL IS THE FIRST MEZCAL PRODUCED ON THE OAXACAN COAST. TASTINGS IN THE MEZCALERÍA, LOCATED AT BUGAMBILIA 303 LOCAL 05, DOWNTOWN LA CRUCECITA. CALL FOR RESERVATION TO: CEL PHONES: 9581004360 OR 9581004703 OR TO: email: mezcaldelacosta@g mail.com www.mezcaldelacosta.com OPEN FROM 11:00 AM TO 11:00 PM, MONDAY TO SATURDAY.
EVITA EL EXCESO
Once again, we come to the Holiday Season, a deeply religious time that each of us observes, in his own way, by going to the mall of his choice. -Dave Barry Have you made your Christmas list? I recently read that in Iceland, on Christmas Eve, people gift books and then spend the evening reading. I was intrigued and wanted to know more. Did you know that Iceland publishes more books per capita than any other country in the world, with five titles published for every 1,000 Icelanders? Wow! And they aren’t all reading them on their Kindles- in 2009, book loans at the Reykjavík City Library totaled 1.2 million — in a city of only 200,000 people. Then as though the universe knew I was seeking information on all things about Iceland and books, an Icelandic customer arrived at my restaurant and confirmed his country’s love for all things literary. In this issue, our book columnist Carole Reedy lists her favorite books of the year. Just reading the list made me yearn for my hammock and a stack of new releases; the sound of book spines cracking, the feel of paper between my fingertips and the light rustling sound as I turn the page. It seems the holidays and gift giving should be that simple. But they’re not. We live in such a consumerist society that few of us have things we want, that we haven’t already bought for ourselves. Most of us are drowning in our belongings; or stylizing them for those perfect Instagram moments. What if instead of just posting on Facebook how much we like to support local businesses and how human connection is so important, what if we stepped away from our computers, put down our phones and didn’t go to the mall this holiday season? What if we introduced ourselves to our neighbours and baked cookies with our kids? What if instead of getting new stuff, you got rid of all the stuff you don’t need? My Christmas list? What I really want for Christmas is for my daughter to make me a ukulele album- 10 songs with her singing. When I told her this she rolled her eyes and huffed with disdain- a reaction perfected by most 15 year olds... and books, of course, lots of good books. Happy Holidays! Merry Christmas! Happy Channuka! Habari Gani! Happy Bodhi Day! Happy New Year! See you in 2016,
Jane
The Eye is a monthly all-English magazine that is distributed throughout the state of Oaxaca. It can be found for FREE at hotels, restaurants and community hot spots. Should you wish to receive copies, advertise or submit some writing or photography please send us an email. This magazine is made possible by the advertisers so please thank them when you use their services.
Editor: Jane Bauer Copy Editor: Deborah Van Hoewyk Web Goddess: Erin Vig Writers: Jan Chaiken, Marcia Chaiken, Brooke Gazer, Julie Etra, Erin May, Fran McLaren, Leigh Morrow, Carole Reedy, Alvin Starkman, Deborah Van Hoewyk Cover Photo: Daniel Oliveras Photography/Art: Alvin Starkman Distribution: Renee Ciringione Biernacki Advertising Assistant: Casilda Mendoza Lopez Layout: Jane Bauer Opinions and words are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of The Eye. We welcome submissions and input. To get involved send us an email. TheEyeHuatulco@gmail.com Visit Us Online
www.TheEyeHuatulco.com
In This Issue How Holidays Can Stop The Clock... By Leigh Morrow Page 8 Holidays in Mexico By Brooke Gazer Page 10 What Happens to Those Centavos??? By Brooke Gazer Page 11 The Art of Reading: Favorite Books of 2015 By Carole Reedy Page 12 Dressing for the Holidays in Oaxaca; More than Beachwear By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D. Page 14 Palmas Unidas ByFran McLaren Page 15 Imported Holidays in Mexico By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken Page 16 Your Handy Guide to Holiday Shopping in Huatulco By Deborah Van Hoewyk Page 18 Plans for Mexico City’s New Airport By Julie Etra Page 20 How To Take Your Pet To Mexico By Erin May Page 21
EDITORIAL PAGE 3 EVENTS CALENDAR PAGE 22 In Oaxaca City, The Eye is now available at Amate Books.
The Eye 4
The Eye Lecture Series Bringing articles to life, we have planned a lecture series; here's what's coming up. All are welcome and the lectures are free. The monthly lectures all take place on Wednesday, from 4:00 to 6:00 PM at Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del Mar. Volunteering and community involvement Wednesday, December 16th, 2015 A panel of volunteers and organizational representatives will describe opportunities for you to contribute your expertise and energy to projects in and around Huatulco. Discover how those contributions help solve local efforts to solve local problems. Real Estate in Mexico Wednesday, January13th, 2016 Panel of experienced specialists and brokers describe everything from buying a pied-à-terre condo to buying land a building from the ground up. Mexican real estate transactions are a complicated “landscape” for foreigners—come hear from the experts! Mezcal Wednesday, February17th, 2016 No longer the high-octane booze swilled under the saguaros, high-quality mezcal is the latest thing in the U.S., Europe, and Australia. Mezcal practitioners will fill you in about how it's made, what makes a great mezcal, and how to actually taste what they're talking about. Weavers and Artisans Wednesday, March 16th, 2016 Oaxaca boasts an extraordinary range of artesanías—hand-crafted products ranging from woven rugs and textiles to several varieties of pottery to the fantastic carved animals called alebrijes. Find out how these crafts are produced, how to see what makes a product authentic, and how to get the most for your money.
Information: TheEyeHuatulco@gmail.com
Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca TM/MR
Marina Chahue, Huatulco Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339 Closed Mondays
www.cafejuanitamexico.com Contact us to Advertise!
While in the state capital, learn about this century's most coveted spirit by spending a day with recognized authority Alvin Starkman. Visit rural artisanal distilleries (palenques) using both ancestral clay pot and traditional copper stills. For novices and
Contactanos para Anunciarse!
aficionados alike. Sample throughout your excursion with no obligation to buy.
www.mezcaleducationaltours.com mezcaleducationaltours@hotmail.com
The Eye 6
TheEyeMagazine@gmail.com
Advertisement
An Interview with Chef Eugenio Santillana By Tirza Bonifazi Originally from Oaxaca, Chef Eugenio Santillana owns the distinguished restaurants La Toscana and The Cuche, a restaurant dedicated to Slow Food; he hosts the TV show Cocinando con Eugenio Santillana (Cooking with Eugenio Santillana) on Cable TV Canal 152. And if that were not enough, he opened the restaurant Hierba Santa in Puebla, and has now started Ocean Sea & Casual Food in Arrocito, Huatulco. We had a chat with Chef Santillana for you. What was it that attracted you to the kitchen? How come you decided to become a chef? Because when I was a boy I was very mischievous, I loved watching my mom cooking and when she didn’t watch, I took a pinch of food. Later on, when I studied tourism, I realized that I enjoyed cooking and that I had a talent for creating and a good palate, so I decided that my life was going to be in the kitchen.
Why did you decide to start this adventure in Huatulco? I have been coming to Huatulco a lot in the last three years and it is a paradise. So, what’s better than enjoying it, getting to share my food with the people that live here and the visitors. How would you describe Ocean Sea & Casual Food? It’s mostly seafood cuisine but we also have pasta and steaks. The restaurant is unpretentious and relaxed, a great place to hang out with friends and family. What is a dish at Ocean Sea & Casual Food that you consider a 'must'? I think an excellent choice is the Coconut Fish Noodle Soup, it’s seasoned with lemon grass, basil and coriander, and it’s refreshing.
Fine Dining Restaurant · Event Planner · Wedding Planning Open for lunch & dinner Closed Tuesdays Cosmo Residences, Arrocito, Huatulco (958) 525 2241 - (958) 589 7237
How Holidays Can Stop The Clock... By Leigh Morrow
D
o you remember your summers as a youngsterout of school for what seemed like an endless length of time, days spent lying on the front lawn finding faces in the clouds and jumping through the sprinkler in your shorts? It seemed that time stopped and those warm summer days stretched infinitely forward in endless joy. Part of that was our perception of time. Our perception of the passing of time speeds up the older we get. Some scientists say our lower dopamine levels cause us to experience time passing more rapidly, but it may be much more than that. Young children tend to live much more in the moment as their brain begins to develop, and start to process and arrange a collection of events that would suggest a passage of time. Scientists have discovered that for young children, a random day is perceived as longer because their experiences are new, and therefore the brain is more engaged. For us mid-life adults, the same day may appear as much as 8 times shorter because our brain is usually engaged in the same mental routines and repetitive habits. By the time we reach here, in our mid-life, our stimulus is often an endless loop of "Groundhog Day" and that overstimulation by the same things renders the loop invisible. Your brain has mapped out those chores and routines like driving the same route to work over and over so often, that it becomes disengaged from the present moment. You are in a trance as you go about your day almost oblivious to the changing seasons, the shifting light, the months of the year. With less rich and varied memories to map, we perceive the passage of time to fly by. Holidays, where you are completely removed from your present life, perhaps visiting a vastly contrasting country with colours, cuisine, landscapes and languages different from your own world, cause your brain to start firing and mapping these new unknown events. Time begins to slow, and days are thought to feel longer. By the end of our vacation we feel like we have been gone for much longer than our plane tickets indicate. This phenomenon and the science behind it are called "The Holiday Paradox" by Claudia Hammond, a British psychologist. Her findings show our ordinary day to day lives are so humdrum, we remember only 6-8 events every two weeks. However, on holiday, we are bombarded with different stimuli and experiences and we remember 6-8 events a DAY. Thus when we flip through the memory book of our last vacation, we have built so many more pages, we feel the vacation has lasted a long time, when in reality it may have been a short vacation of only a few days. Memories, or more correctly the lack of them, explain why as we age we feel time is rushing by. Our best memory banking years are typically from teenager to mid-twenties when we are experiencing a lot of firsts.
First loves, first kisses, first jobs, all are registered differently because of their newness. "You always remember your first love," say the psychologists, but perhaps more for its newness than its depth or breadth of affection. Eleanor Roosevelt said: "Do one thing every day that scares you." While Eleanor was eloquently implying that to achieve personal growth, it is sometimes necessary to move outside your comfort zone, it is a fact that fear is one emotion that slows our perception of time down the most. When you are trapped in an elevator or your car slides off the road on an icy stretch of highway, your brain freezes every frame of the event and time moves in Planck time, the slowest measurement of time. It is no surprise then that adrenalin experiences like sky diving or zip lining are often the easy placebo for aging baby boomers. They get a thrill and a rush by doing an activity that requires specific focus because it is unfamiliar and daring. So while they fly along the jungle canopy, time slows down, and they feel alive! However, adding seconds to our perception of time does not need to be as rebellious as leaping off the face of a building or swimming with sharks. It is easily achieved by simply going on vacation, to a place where much of the surroundings are foreign. If your vacation is to a culturally different land, where the sounds in the alleys and the smells from the street vendors are vastly different from those at home, then time will magically begin to slow, and wondrously you will be transported back to those seemingly endless summer days, hands crossed behind your head in the long grass, finding faces in the clouds. Like a trapeze artist, we can swing off the hands of time and slow our days down, by simply living each new and memorable experience we encounter on our travels. Leigh Morrow is a Vancouver writer who operates Casa Mihale, a vacation rental in the quaint ocean front community of San Agustinillo, Mexico. Her house can be viewed and rented at www.gosanagustinillo.com
Posada Chahue Vegetarian Specialties *Homemade Tofu Our famous freshly baked sweet bread Open 7 am to 10 pm We accept credit cards No reservations required
The Eye 8
RESTAURANT-GRILL
THE PLACE TO BE French & International Cuisine RESERVATIONS 587 1157 Closed Sunday Located in front of the Binniguenda Hotel Santa Cruz, Huatulco
The Eye 9
Holidays in Mexico By Brooke Gazer
M
I find it a bit quirky that this country, which has a separation of church and state, offers Christmas day as an official day of celebration but not Easter. After Christmas, Easter is probably the most celebrated religious holiday in Mexico. The following is a list of days which are not obligatory, but many employers offer their workers time off. If you hire a maid or gardener you may consider offering them some of these days as a show of good will.
exico is rich in Fiestas, any excuse for a party will do! Most people celebrate two birthdays, the day of their birth and their own personal Saint's day. Including statutory holidays I count 33 official days for festivities and celebration. There are however, only seven official statutory holidays in Mexico. These are called “feriados” or “días de asuetos”. If you have an employee, you must either give them the day off or pay them double to work on these days. This includes maids and gardeners if they would normally work for you on the day in question. The "Ley Federal de Trabajo" was modified a few years ago to reassign some national holidays to a Monday in order to promote more national tourism, creating “Puentes" (long weekends).
Jan. 6….Day of the Three Kings (Epiphany); celebrates the gifts brought to the baby Jesus by the Magi and the end of the twelve days of Christmas. Families exchange gifts and hold a festive evening meal with friends that features a wreathshaped kings' cake (rosca de reyes).
Statutory Holidays Dec. 25…. Christmas Day, the birth of Christ
Feb. 12…. Flag Day, not a statutory holiday, but there will be parades to honor the tri-colored flag of Mexico.
Jan. 1….New Year’s Day, the start of a new year
Easter Week…. Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, Holy Saturday, and Easter Sunday. While not official statutory holidays, many employers offer all four days, some only Saturday and Easter Sunday or Friday and Sunday.
Feb. 5…. Day of the Constitution, celebrates the ratification of the constitutions of 1857 and 1919. (This is observed on the first Monday of February as a Puente) Mar. 21….The Birthday of Benito Juarez, Mexico's most beloved president, who was born in 1806. (The Puente is celebrated on the third Monday in March.) May 1….Labor Day, This commemorates Mexico's labor union movement. Sept. 16…. Independence Day, commemorates the beginning of the War of Independence in 1810, when Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla called the peasants to rebel against the tyranny of the Spaniards. It officially begins at midnight on September 15 with “El Grito de Dolores”. Nov. 20….Day of the Revolution, honors the Revolution that was begun by Francisco Madero in 1910 (The Puente usually falls on the third Monday in November.) Dec. 1….Change of Government, only occurs every six years when a new government is sworn in. The next change will occur in 2018.
Tel: 958 581 0025 www.ecoyspa.com
May 10…. Mother’s Day, honors all mothers and it is common for employers to give mothers half a day to be spoiled by their families (Mothers Day is often celebrated on the closest Monday to May 10.) Nov. 1 – 2…. Day of the Dead; If your employees are traditional, they may want to take this day to celebrate the passing of friends and family members. They will hold allnight vigils for the souls of departed loved ones, the night of November 1 for children and November 2 for adults. Dec.12 ….The Day of The Virgin of Guadalupe. In Latin America, the Virgin may be a more important religious icon than Christ himself. Dec. 24…. Christmas Eve. Families gather on this evening to celebrate Christmas and have a huge meal at midnight, so especially women will appreciate leaving early this day in order to begin the preparations for this festival. December 31… New Years Eve, This is also a huge time for families to celebrate with a midnight meal and employees may appreciate a few extra hours to arrange for the festivities. The following days are not official holidays but the banks are closed. Feb. 24, the four days of Easter, Nov. 2, Dec. 12 Note: Many government offices close down completely from Dec. 12 (Virgin of Guadalupe) until Jan 6 (All Kings Day). Do not expect to get anything official accomplished during this time frame.
Discover Peace and Traquility The Eye 10
Brooke Gazer operates an oceanview bed and breakfast in Huatulco www.bbaguaazul.com
What Happens to Those Centavos??? By Brooke Gazer
W
hen you are at the grocery check out, your total is rarely an even number. Your bill might be $273.61pesos. At Soriana, the clerks ask you, “Do you want to donate the centavos to …?” If you answer “yes” they round it up to $274. Nobody misses the 33 tiny centavos; in fact most stores just keep it. Using those stray centavos, Soriana supports various charities throughout the year. This year, from July 1 through October 31, Un Nuevo Amanecer was the recipient and during those four months the centavos added up to a whopping $76,785.97 pesos! In the small facility which is located above the hardware store “Ferrealianza” on Calle Jazmin, UNA helps a wide range of disabled children in Huatulco and the surrounding communities. Through physical therapy, occupational therapy, and special education, they assist children with down syndrome, epilepsy, cerebral palsy, hearing impairment, learning impairment and infants born with various respiratory and/or motor impairments. Rodrigo is 18 months old and has been coming with his mother for the past year. His diagnosis is not completely certain, but some doctors in Oaxaca believe he has cerebral palsy. When he began treatment at the center he was unable to hold his head upright, it lolled to one side or the other. This not only affected his ability to breathe properly but the strain on his upper spinal cord inhibited his ability to control his limbs. After a year of physical therapy he has developed 70% control over his neck muscles with a positive prognosis that eventually he will gain complete control.
Events to support UNA What: Brunch and Bingo When: Friday, Dec. 4 at 10:00 AM Where: Marina Park Plaza, conference room Tickets: Henriette Clays PH: (044) 958 583 7664 Cost: 250 pesos which include a bingo card for 1 game. Extra cards will be available for 20 pesos. Prizes will be donated by various local restaurants and business. What: Blues on the Beach – Huatulco, Concert/Beach Party When: Jan 21, 2016 and Feb 25, 2016 Where: Latitude 15º in Chahue Cost: 300 pesos These beach parties/concerts have become much anticipated annual events in Huatulco with spectacular participation well in excess of 300 locals and tourists. If there is any chance of being in Huatulco at this time, mark these dates on your calendar. Look for more details in the January issue of The Eye.
At the same time little Rodrigo has severe problems with his lower limbs. They were turned inward at an angle of about 40 degrees and he suffers from severe attacks of spasms. Through Teletón México, his mother has been able to take him to the Centro de Rehabilitación Infantil in Oaxaca City once a month where both legs are put into plaster casts in order to straighten them and to prevent them from going into spasms. UNA is working on his upper body while the doctors in Oaxaca are hopeful of success on his lower extremities. The treatments, therapy, and exercises he must comply with are not easy. Sometimes it is hard for such a little tyke to understand what is being done to him but this brave little soul endures as best he can. At UNA there are three other small children with similar neck issues and two Down syndrome children who also need therapy to support their heads properly. There is however, some light at the end of this long dark tunnel. Josiline was a little girl with a similar condition. She suffered with severe spasms and was unable to hold her head upright. She was one year old when she began therapy at UNA and at age twenty she walks and moves more or less normally. Although she also has some learning impairment, she has come a long way to becoming self sufficient and enjoys being part of the baking project at UNA. This occupational therapy was developed last year. The goal is to teach skills which will allow them to earn some money and help them to live with some degree of independence. I cannot think of a better way to use those stray centavos. Kudos to Soriana!
Brooke Gazer operates an oceanview bed and breakfast in Huatulco. www.bbaguaazul.com
The Eye 11
The Art of Reading: Favorite Books of 2015 By Carole Reedy
D
ecember. A time to reflect on the year's end and anticipate the days ahead. One of my favorite mind games is to review books I've read this year and investigate 2016's fresh arrivals. As Julian Barnes reminds us, the pleasure is in the
anticipation.
Here are my top ten picks from the 60 or so books I've read this year. Following the list are the preferences of THE EYE staff, who are naturally avid readers. Presented not necessarily in order of preference, though numbers one and two are indeed my favorites of the year… 1--The four books that make up the Neapolitan Series by Elena Ferrante. The author claims this is really just one long novel, divided into four selections: My Brilliant Friend, The Story of a New Name, Those Who Leave and Those Who Stay, and The Story of the Lost Child. Ferrante masterfully creates the world of two eightyear-old girls in Naples and follows them through adolescence and adulthood until they reach their 60s. The book received well-deserved accolades from the critics, and the author received a lot of press partly inspired (ironically) by her refusal to participate in publicity for her books, which she says should stand on the merit of the writing, not on clever advertising and promotion. Ferrante is a recluse, in the style of J.D. Salinger, who gives no live interviews or appearances and does not participate in book tours. In fact, Elena Ferrante is not even her given name. 2--The five novels that make up the Patrick Melrose series, also intended as one long book, deserve a tie for first place on my list. Wealthy and well-bred British citizen Edward St. Aubyn has written his autobiography in novel form. If you didn't know that this is his story, you might think the book too far-fetched to be true. Suffering from a sexually abusive father, a mother who substitutes caring for others in place of her son, a wife who sexually abandons him in favor of motherhood, and a period of severe drug addiction (it's amazing he's even alive), St. Aubyn's elegant and very British style is what makes this a fine piece of literature. The five books are: Never Mind, Bad News, Some Hope, Mother's Milk, and At Last. Mother's Milk was on the Man Booker Prize short list in 2006. (Coincidentally, St. Aubyn also published a satire on book prizes, Lost for Words, in 2014, which he thinks will assure that he never wins one of the awards in the future.) 3--The Orphan Master's Son by Adam Johnson won the Pulitzer Prize for Literature in 2013. Never did I think a novel that takes place in North Korea would mesmerize me as this one did. The characters are solid and fascinating, as is the tragic story of North Korea.
The Eye 12
4--Prayers for the Stolen by Jennifer Clement. Clement has written a novel based on the true stories of the women and their daughters who reside in a mountain pueblo outside of Acapulco. Abandoned by their husbands, who travel North to work in the US, the mothers struggle to protect the young girls, who are the victims of kidnapping by narcos. Brilliantly crafted, the book is told from the point of view of Ladydi, one of the girls of the village. Clement, current President of PEN International, has created this world as a result of her usual impeccable research. A book well worth reading, for Mexican residents and visitors alike. 5--Black Girl White Girl by Joyce Carol Oates. Reading Oates can be a full-time job. She's written more than 50 novels, in addition to short stories, novellas, essays, plays, and books for children. I have read 20+ of her novels, and this one, from 2006, caught my attention this year. In Oates' usual mysterious way of taking you to the soul of her characters, here she tells the story of roommates (one black, one white), but the novel reveals as much about their families, especially the fathers, as it does of the two girls. 6--The Anatomy Lesson by Philip Roth. Every year I read several novels by Philip Roth, who now in his 82nd year claims he won't write another. This autobiographical novel was written in 1983 and is the third to feature Nathan Zuckerman as the main character, who here is stricken with undiagnosable pain in middle age. Not well-received by critics, it nonetheless was a finalist for the National Book Award and the National Book Critics Circle Award. In 2015 I also read Operation Shylock and The Facts, both worthy of your time. As always, they'll make you laugh. 7—The Flaneur by Edmund White. US citizen White lived in Paris for several years, and here he takes us for a walk through the streets of Paris, which ooze fascinating history. White is an incredible font of history, art, literature, and gossip about this well-loved city, all shared elegantly. Since reading this book, a friend and I often “flaneur” through the neighborhood of Mexico City in the style of White (see November's issue of The Eye for a full account of these meanderings). I especially enjoyed the section about the monarchy waiting in the shadows, at the ready to make their grand reappearance. 8--Samuel Pepys: The Unequalled Self by Claire Tomelin. This book received kudos from every member of our book club. A totally likeable man, Pepys, through the eyes of Tomelin, gives us a glimpse of the period before and after the restoration in 17th century England that, like himself, is unequalled.
9--Let Me Tell You by Shirley Jackson. This collection of short stories and essays never before published is just a joy. Most of us remember Jackson for her short story The Lottery (published in 1948), which I read more than 50 years ago in high school freshman English class. It has stayed with me to this date. The stories and essays of her family life in New York and New England are funny and poignant. Jackson mastered the art of the story and essay in her productive yet short life, dying in 1965 at age 48 of a heart attack while sleeping. This is the kind of book you want to own and keep by your bedside to pick up for a quick enjoyable read from time to time. The selections are quite short and snappy. For a lover of the grand tome, such as I, it's a refreshing change of pace…and each story put a smile on my face. 10--Purity by Jonathan Franzen. I haven't finished it yet, but for me Franzen's latest is exactly what a novel should be: well developed characters, a plot with substories, historical context, and deep description of it all. Franzen is our Dickens, Balzac, Hugo, and Roth all wrapped into one fine 21st century novelist. Recommendations from The Eye staff Living to Tell the Tale (Vivir para contarla) by Gabriel Garcia Marquez is Julie Etra's favorite because “it is beautifully written, evocative, and sensual.” The Infatuations by Javier Marias tops Jan Chaiken's list (with grand hurrahs coming from me, Marias being one of my favorite writers). Jan says: “The reader is well advised to have three books at hand--the English translation, the original Spanish, and a novella by Balzac called Colonel Chabert. The original Spanish will help you understand some of Marias' wonderful wordplay, which cannot really be reproduced in translation. The novella by Balzac enters halfway through the novel, and the organization of its story as told by Marias' character is even better than that of Balzac. The theme of this story-within-a-story is of a soldier, long presumed dead, who returns alive, and the effects on his widow—now remarried—and his wealth, which others have inherited. Ouch!” Courtney Family Adventures by Wilbur Smith. Since June, Erin Vig has been reading this saga, in six books, which follows four generations of a South African family from the early 18th century to the late 20th. Though a fictional series, the novels are based on factual events. She says “The series is not what I consider light reading, but it is extremely enjoyable and enlightening.” Bringing Home Bubbie by Debra Gordon Zaslow. Veteran EYE writer Marcia Chaiken shares with us this review, written for Amazon: “Ms. Zaslow has surpassed herself in this autobiographical, starkly beautiful portrait of five generations of women.She honestly describes her struggles with the pain and joy of providing comfort for her 103-year-old grandmother during her final months, while still dealing with the contemporary challenges faced by millions of women: two-career marriages, teen angst, difficult relatives, and the nitty gritty of trying to keep a family in balance. I highly recommend this book for all women who have ever been a mother or a daughter and all men who want to understand them.”
Two favorites from Brooke Gazer: Gods, Gachupines, and Gringos, A People's History of Mexico by Richard Grabman. “This book takes a unique look at Mexican history and how it has affected the current culture. I have read a few books about Mexican history, but this one included a lot of amusing anecdotes that you are not likely to find elsewhere, which really ties the past with the present.” The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein. “A novel told from a dog's point of view. Some of the observations and assumptions are priceless.” The Eye contributor Renee Biernacki listed Looking for Alaska by John Green as her favorite book this year. “John Green masterfully and philosophically delves into the labyrinth of forgiving. The characters are as audacious as they are intelligent. The book is a roller coaster of humor, suspense and sorrow. Don’t make any plans because this book is difficult to put down and a great read from beginning to end.” Last, but not least, two novels recommended by the editor, creator, and backbone of THE EYE. Thanks, Jane Bauer! The History of Love by Nicole Krauss. “This is a novel about the power of storytelling. The characters jump to life with Krauss' easy and poignant prose. I fell in love with all of them.” Fallen by Kara Stanley. “This poignantly written non-fiction story is about a woman dealing with the aftermath of a work accident that left her husband in a wheelchair and how his connection to music helped his recovery.” And one more, a recommendation from my personal editor from Chicago, Heidi Hough, whose careful eye corrects my careless scribbling: 2013 Man Booker Award winner The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton. “Set in 1866, when gold fever (and all its permutations, both good and nasty) struck New Zealand, the book's characters are as diverse as the night sky as they follow their dreams, encounter success and failure, and form intriguing liaisons against the backdrop of NZ's wild west coast. In a gold rush town called Hokitika, much mischief is afoot. I walked the town for a week in 2015, Catton's locations out my camper door, but you don't have to be there to be taken on a read of a lifetime.” Thanks to all who contributed to this final article of the year. Wishing you another satisfying 365 days of books and reading in 2016. See you right back here in January!
Chiles&Chocolate Cooking Classes Huatulco, Oaxaca
Tel. 958 105 1671
Cel. 958 100 7339
chiles.chocolate@yahoo.com
www.huatulco-catering.com The Eye 13
Dressing for the Holidays in Oaxaca; More than Beachwear By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.
W
hat's the appropriate dress for a visit to the city of Oaxaca? It doesn't matter whether you're spending an entire vacation in the state capital, or intending to sneak away from the beach for just a couple of days to get your fill of culture, cuisine, and of course mezcal. With the holiday season upon us, the answer becomes clearer. Consider the cool December/January climate in the mountains away from the coast, especially evenings; and perhaps wanting to fit in a bit more during an extremely festive time of year. How would you dress back home, in order to feel comfortable both in terms of not catching a chill, nor receiving a cold shoulder? It's important to remember that Oaxaca is a city filled with First World character: theater, music, museums, art galleries and fine dining; more than just crafts, ruins and colonial architecture. So to this extent, Oaxaca is no different than New York, Chicago, Toronto, Vancouver or Los Angeles – but with a Latin flare, often reflected in relaxed dress – but not beachwear or cottage clothing. Acceptable attire is not the same in the city as it is on the coast. Sure you can “get away with” wearing virtually anything, since after all you're not a native Oaxacan and everyone knows it, if not earlier then as soon as you open your mouth. And yes, bringing along just shorts, t-shirts and halter tops, sandals and flip flops, may be just fine, certainly in most resort environments, day or night. But the city of Oaxaca is different. How Urban Oaxacans Dress Men in Oaxaca usually wear long pants and a shirt with a collar. Footwear tends to be leather shoes. Oaxacan women usually wear a blouse and skirt, a dress, or a top and long pants or capris, and either leather sandals or fashion boots, and even heels. While for going out in the evenings the dress is at times a little more formal, often there is no difference. Frequently throughout the daytime both men and women wear blue jeans. The only time one normally sees urban Oaxacans wearing shorts is on Sundays, attributable to the fact that Sunday is often both a day off work, and a sports day with many men not changing after playing soccer or baseball with a pick-up team. The Difference in Attire in the Towns and Villages in the Central Valleys In the towns and villages of Oaxaca's central valleys, laborers, craftspeople and campesinos wear all manner of clothes, and anything is acceptable, dictated often by economics and type of work. For the middle classes, regardless of occupation, dress is only somewhat more relaxed than for city folk. When Oaxacans from the state capital or Mexicans from further abroad venture into the villages, either sightseeing or for example shopping in the Thursday Zaachila market, they dress a little more casual, with jeans or shorts, a shirt and sandals or running shoes.
The Eye 14
How Should Tourists Dress in Oaxaca It is suggested that if reasonably possible, both men and women, as tourists to Oaxaca, should wear clothing similar to that of urban Oaxacans. For men, a shirt with a pair of casual pants or jeans. Running shoes are acceptable. Safari wear is also acceptable, but one will definitely stand out, aside from skin color and camera around the neck. For women, just as Oaxacan women dress, of course without feeling compelled to bring along a pair of heels for the trip. Despite the foregoing, as long as one does not wander about in a sloppy t-shirt or tank top, very short shorts and flip flops, a more casual approach to clothing is quite acceptable for tourists. For example, leather sandals or other shoes comfortable for walking, longer shorts and a more casual top are absolutely fine. For the evenings, formal wear as customarily worn in the US or Canada is not necessary. Men should never feel compelled to put on a tie, for example. Even for weddings in downtown Oaxaca, trousers with sport jacket and open shirt is acceptable, or a long sleeved guayabera without a jacket is okay. As long as a pair of pants and a long-sleeved shirt is packed, men should be fine in most urban situations. For going to the theater or out for dinner, even to Casa Oaxaca, Origen or Los Danzantes, the same attire is acceptable. For women, a simple cocktail dress brought along in a corner of the suitcase might come in handy, but is certainly not necessary; a blouse and skirt or long pants serve in most cases. Touring the sights in the central valleys is a bit different for both men and women. Walking shorts are fine as suggested above. For footwear, certainly rubber soled shoes, running shoes or hiking boots are fine given that tourists will likely be visiting ruins, hiking, and / or walking along the odd dirt road. Respect as a Visitor to Oaxaca Tourists ought to show a modicum of respect for those who reside in Oaxaca. Of course it's understood that travelers cannot bring along an extensive wardrobe. But a grown woman in the evening in a tank top and short shorts, or a man sporting a torn t-shirt and sandals, is neither appropriate nor necessary. Trust me; dressing a little more upscale than first impressions would otherwise dictate will make you feel better about yourself, more welcomed by members of your host society, and result in a more enjoyable and fulfilling visit to Oaxaca. Alvin Starkman operates Mezcal Educational Excursions of Oaxaca (www.mezcaleducationaltours.com). When he moved to Oaxaca from Toronto in 2004, he brought 74 ties. Most have never left his closet.
Palmas Unidas By Fran McLaren
P
almas Unidas Bahías de Huatulco AC is a non-profit organization dedicated to improving the quality of life for homeless cats and dogs in Huatulco. The group, led by Roberto Dattoli and his wife Margaret Guerra, owners of the Hotel Plaza Delphinus at Chahue, began meeting monthly in 2014. In March 2015 the group became a registered civil association. Since then, the group has rescued and found homes for over 45 puppies, and with the help of local veterinarians Dr. Norma Rivera and Dr. Freddy Cruz, more than 41 additional animals have been sterilized and adopted. In October the organization assisted at a four day sterilization campaign in Sector H3 sponsored by the municipality. During that clinic, eighteen dogs from the local dump and area were captured, sterilized and provided after care. In November Palmas Unidas conducted a four day free spay and neuter campaign in the area, at which 200 animals were sterilized. Educating the community about sterilization and proper pet care is also an important goal for the group. Since September, 2015, Palmas Unidas is pleased to be a part of the Organic Market in Santa Cruz. Many dogs and cats have found loving homes through exposure at the market. Donations are needed to keep up with the ongoing sterilization and adoptive process. If you are interested in donating, becoming a volunteer, providing temporary shelter for a pet, or if you wish to adopt, please contact Roberto Dattoli at 958 111 3030 or stop by Hotel Plaza Delphinus in Chahue. Visit the group's Facebook page – Palmas Unidas Bahías de Huatulco AC.
The Eye 15
Imported Holidays in Mexico By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken
N
obel prize winner Octavio Paz, an acute observer of Mexican culture, cogently described fiestas, “with their violent primary colors, their bizarre costumes and dances, their fireworks and ceremonies and their inexhaustible welter of surprises: the fruit, candy, toys,” as the very life blood of Mexicanos. So it should not be surprising that many holidays in Mexico are relatively recent additions to the calendar. Some began as grassroots celebrations by immigrants or by Mexicanos who learned about the holiday when living in the U.S.; when they returned to Mexico they introduced the practice to their friends and neighbors, and gradually the celebration spread. Others were adopted but given a completely different meaning in Mexico. And several were added to the calendar of observances by Mexican government officials who were not about to allow their neighbors to the north pay honor to groups of people without doing the same.
Saint Patrick's Day is a holiday that has a deep meaning unique to Mexico. During the Mexican-American War (1846-1848), around 200 soldiers in the U.S. Army – many of Irish decent – deserted and joined the Mexican Army. Various explanations of why they chose to do so have been offered. Perhaps they were driven by ideology, since as immigrants who had experienced discrimination they identified with the Mexicans living in the U.S. southern states. Perhaps they deserted for economic reasons, since the Mexican Army reportedly promised higher pay than could be earned in the U.S. Army. Perhaps it was familial ties, since relatively large numbers of Irish had migrated to Mexico during the Great Famine in Ireland.
The celebration of Halloween in Mexico as practiced in the U.S. began as a grassroots movement. Although among some Mexicanos, Halloween is considered as noxious as an exotic weed that takes over a garden, the elements of Halloween fit almost naturally as part of the Mexican culture. North of the border, children wear costumes and go door to door asking for sweets, and the corresponding option in Mexico is not “trick or treat” but sweets or basura (garbage). (But money to buy sweets will suffice.)
Independent of why they joined, the Irish and other European immigrant sympathizers formed a fierce battalion called the Batallón de San Patricio (Saint Patrick). Under the leadership of John Riley and Santiago O'Leary and under a green banner proclaiming “Erin Go Bragh” (Ireland Forever), the battalion was given credit by both Mexican and U.S. leaders for winning major battles in the war. Even current Mexican presidents toast the San Patricios as they raise a glass to them on Saint Patricks's Day.
Common costumes in Mexico are black body suits painted front and back with a white skeleton – outfits which have long been used for other Mexican fiestas. But local stores also carry a variety of Disney-inspired outfits. Little Mexican girls appear to find princess costumes as appealing as their U.S. counterparts, perhaps more so since when Mexican girls celebrate their 15 th birthdays, their dresses resemble Cinderella's ball gown. Teens and adults also wear costumes and go to Halloween parties, but rather than traditional fiesta costumes you will increasingly see political or cinema-style costumes. A Halloween activity in schools is pumpkin carving. Pumpkins in Mexico are dense edible squashes, unlike the almost hollow jack o'lantern variety found in pumpkin patches in the U.S. So, carving is more difficult and odiferous here. When asked if the meat of the carved pumpkin was used for cooking, a friend replied, “Not after the kids have their hands all over it.” Since Halloween closely coincides with Day of the Dead (see Eye, October 2012 article by Alvin Starkman), an ancient basically religious holiday honoring ancestors, the two observances are often confused in the minds of non-Mexicans and, increasingly, Mexican children. Since Day of the Dead is usually celebrated for three days, children are demanding to go trick-or-treating all three nights. This confusion will be intensified by the opening scene in the latest James Bond movie Spectre:007, which features an extravagant Day of the Dead comparsa (parade) in the zócalo of Mexico City. To the uninitiated, this may appear to be identical to a U.S. Halloween parade albeit on a grander scale.
The Eye 16
Valentine's Day is celebrated throughout the world and is an official saints day, commemoration day, or feast day in many Christian denominations, often including renewal of marriage vows. Valentine was the name of several prominent early Christians, and there is no consensus among scholars as to which of them is to be associated with February 14. Archeologists have determined that there was a Catacombi di San Valentino in Rome that was the destination of pilgrims for hundreds of years during the Middle Ages. The Valentino in question was buried there, and various theories ascribe the remains to a 5th century Roman martyr or to the architect who designed the basilica outside of which the grave was located. The remains were later moved, and today relics can be viewed and venerated at the Basilica of Santa Maria in Rome, at the Whitefriar Street Church in Dublin, Ireland, and in New Minster, Winchester, England.
The celebration of Saint Valentine did not have any romantic connotations until the 14 t h century. The first recorded mention of Saint Valentine in connection with engagement, marriage, or love is in a poem of Geoffrey Chaucer around 1381: “For this was on seynt Volantynys day / When every byrd cometh there to choose his mate.” Only problem is – February 14 is not a time when birds would be mating in England, so Chaucer might have been referring to some other Valentine altogether. And who can forget Ophelia in Hamlet: “Tomorrow is Saint Valentine's day/ All in the morning betime/ And I a maid at your window/ To be your Valentine.” From such literary works do worldwide folk traditions emerge.
Frida’s
Fish Taco Food Truck Look for us in the park outside the Huatulco ADO bus station Tuesday-Saturday 11.30am-6:00pm Sundays in Santa Cruz
Widespread interest in St. Valentine's Day started in the U.S. and Canada in the 1800s, when it was promoted by enterprising manufacturers of lace and paper cards as a means of increasing sales. Nowadays hundreds of millions of paper valentine cards are annually sold or made by hand in school classrooms, featuring hearts, Cupids, doves, and flowers. Plus millions of e-cards, love coupons, and printable electronic cards are sent each year. This has led to the snide reference to February 14 as “Hallmark's Day.” Aside from cards, common gifts associated with Valentine's Day are chocolates (especially packed in heart-shaped red satin boxes), flowers (especially roses), jewelry, and Rolls Royces. In Mexico, this holiday was genuinely imported from north of the border and has no native traditional origins. The name Día de San Valentín is known but rarely used here. The most common name in Mexico is Día del Amor y la Amistad -- Day of Love and Friendship, while in other parts of Latin America it is known as Dia de los enamorados – Day of lovers, or Día del cariño – Day of affection. You will not find large displays of greeting cards in stores here weeks before the holiday, but you will see real and artificial flowers, plenty of chocolates in red wrapping, and heart-shaped balloons with the words Te amo or Felicidades. Around February 12 you may be able to track down one or two manufactured Valentine's cards, but of the type normally traded among children, often with the “o” in Amor shaped like a heart. School children in Mexico cut out hearts from paper on Día de la Amistad and exchange a heart, a written message, and presents with their secret friend. The secret friend is chosen randomly by drawing the name of someone in the class, and part of the fun is trying to figure out who is sending you presents and messages. The most common presents among young students are chocolates, cakes, cookies, teddy bears, and candies. Older students may exchange hearts and flowers, or may organize a humorous celebration in the classroom.
Contact us for all your legal needs! Lawyer Perla Vazquez Moctezuma Immigration Specialist Marina Park Plaza Local #9 Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca Mobile 958 116 7292 Telcel Mobile 958 107 3221 Movistar
www.consultorialegalvm.com
Huatulco Weddings
For adults it is a day for expressing that you care about close friends, not just about romantic partners. If you will be taking your friend out for dinner, you will need to make a reservation in advance on that day! There are other imported holidays on the Mexican calendar, such as Mother's Day and Father's Day, each given a uniquely south-of-the-border flavor. Given the numerous fiestas celebrated in Mexico, visitors are likely to encounter at least one. Whichever holiday is being celebrated while you're here, we suggest you celebrate it with your Mexican hosts and enjoy the music, dances, fireworks, colors and sweets.
Your Wedding Experts in Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
www.HuatulcoWeddings.net The Eye 17
Your Handy Guide to Holiday Shopping in Huatulco By Deborah Van Hoewyk
S
o here you are in Huatulco, and it's hot and sunny, and it's hard to pick out the poinsettias from the bugambilias and flamboyants. Only a few Christmas carols are making it through the mariachi Muzak at the supermarket. But . . . you're shortly due back in the land of holiday celebrations. Is it possible to shop for gifts that rise above souvenir status? Oh, most definitely! One stop shopping. Your first stop should be the Huatulco Christmas Fair (La Feria Navideña), set for Sunday, December 6, in the plaza around Café Huatulco in Santa Cruz. Organized by a group of long-term Huatulco residents, The Fair will benefit a rural school in Derramadero, a village down the coast near Pochutla; the Derramadero school has been adopted by sculptor Richard Saunders and his wife, life coach and Hatha Yoga instructor Susan James. The Bacaanda Foundation, which runs the overall adoption program for rural schools in southern Oaxaca, will have a table of artesanías that benefits all the rural schools, adopted or not. Artists and artisans from Mexico, the U.S., and Canada will have their creations on sale from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Here you can find work by established artisans like Freddy Bautista Vicente, whose weaving shop is nearby (see below), or alebrije wood carvings by master artist Lino Ortega Mijangos. There will be icy glass ornaments by Colorado glass artist Mary Ahlbrandt, artwork in different media by U.K. painter Fiona Nichols, pearl jewelry by Noemi Ortega, and embroidered clothing and bags from the Isthmus selected and sold by Irasema Toledo, and much, much more. Another art-and-artisans' bazaar kicked off at the end of November; Baz Arte held its first market at the Amigos Haus hotel at Boulevard Santa Cruz 116 (past Hacienda Real, on the way to the western beaches). Plans are for a monthly edition—check their Facebook page to see whether it's started yet: www.facebook.com/AmigosHaus/. Local Markets. There are two markets in Huatulco that, with careful shopping, could produce quite nice holiday gifts. You will not be buying top quality authentic merchandise, but with care you can find very attractive wares. Besides, it's fun to troll the stalls and see what's there. The market in Santa Cruz is located between Santa Cruz Boulevard (the “main drag”) and the central park in Santa Cruz (anchored by Café Huatulco), and is filled with souvenirs and small things to attract tourists and beachgoers, including pottery, alebrijes (the fantastical animal sculptures that virtually symbolize Oaxaca), and casual jewelry. On the side closer to the water are a couple of jewelry shops that sell better silver-and-semi-precious-stone pieces.
The muncipal Mercado 3 de Mayo in La Crucecita, located in the block between Guamuchil (the street that runs into the main square) and Guanacaste (the next street north) carries a broader array of merchandise, including food items. In Mercado 3 de Mayo you can buy tequila, mezcal, and other liquors sometimes for less than in the specialty shops; there is a wide array of Mexican-style blouses and woven tablecloths. Like the market in Santa Cruz, there's a lot of pottery, including the black (barro negro) pottery from San Bartolo Coyotepec and green (check whether the glaze is lead-free) and multi-colored pottery of Santa María Atzompa (both places are in the mountains near Oaxaca City). The trick to shopping in such chock-a-block conditions is to remember that these are partly mass-produced goods, that the Talavera ware is vividly decorative but it's a knock-off, that the colors in very brightly striped napkins and place mats bleed like crazy, etc., etc. Then pick up something you like and isolate it so you can really see whether it's what you want. This merchandise is available in any number of smaller shops throughout Santa Cruz and La Crucecita. Better quality Mexican wares If you are willing to pay more—you will definitely get more—you can buy clothing and table linens produced locally and imported from other areas of Mexico, in particular the Isthmus; Mexican rugs; authentic pottery and alebrijes; custom and high-end jewelry; and specialty mezcal, the latest thing for liquor aficionados. (New York City is reportedly replete with mezcalerías—Casa Mezcal, 86 Orchard Street on the Lower East Side, also features authentic Oaxacan food.) There's a lot of potential for gifts right around the main plaza in La Crucecita. Three interesting choices are Hecho a Mano – Hecho en México, on the north side of the square (Guanacastle 311), next to an ice cream place; Oro Verde, a coffee, tea, and chocolate shop on the west side of Bugambilia, in the middle of the first block north of the square; and Bioamigables de Huatulco, on the south side of Guamuchil as you enter the square (at 208 Guamuchil, Local 3). Bioamigables is your best source in Huatulco for organic products—they carry foodstuffs, cosmetics, biodegradable storage bags and tableware, and cleaning products. Among the cosmetics are some made by a cooperative in Mazunte that arose after turtle hunting was banned. Hecho a Mano carries art supplies, particularly paints, that will let you do your own “hecho a mano,” as well as Oaxacan black pottery (including earrings), interesting alebrijes (look for the octopi in the cashier case), a wide variety of Day-of-theDead figures, and brightly painted wood pieces. Oro Verde sells local organic coffee, grown in the environs of Pluma Hidalgo, in the mountains above Huatulco, as well as chocolate casera, or ground chocolate. Remember that Mexican chocolate is flavored for preparing hot chocolate, usually with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and often a touch of hot pepper. Oro Verde also carries mole mixes, typical Mexican sweets, and handcrafts.
A little farther afield, but still in La Crucecita, you can find higher-end Oaxacan artesanías at the Museo de Artesanías Oaxaqueñas at Flamboyan 216 (south side of the street, next building east of the Oasis Restaurant). Here you will find pottery, alebrijes, rugs, table linens, hammocks, and a wide range of additional Oaxacan products. The two weaving shops that make table linens on site and sell clothing from different regions of Oaxaca are Textilarte, a block farther east at Flamboyan 116, just past Carrizal ( www.textilartehuatulco.com/ ), and Cre-Arte, one block south at 403 Carrizal (on the southeast corner of Chacah). Textilarte is the larger of the two, and carries an immense array of dry goods you can explore with the rhythmic clacking of wooden looms in the background. Cre-Arte is smaller, but if you're looking for table linens, it has full-sized cotton dinner napkins in a variety of colors. There's an unusual shop, Maica J e w e l e r y D e s i g n (www.maicadesigns.com/), at the west end of Chacah, past Gardenia in the middle of the south side of the block. Carolina Schwarz combines skilled design with semi-precious stones traditionally associated with different kinds of healing; she also makes necklaces and earrings using both black pottery and colorful clay beads, as well as colored clay encasing beach shells. The shop also carries crafts from throughout Oaxaca, other Mexican locations, and South America. Back to Santa Cruz. Perhaps the best collection of Mexican rugs and wall hangings in Huatulco, along with some clothing and woven bags, is found at the Tienda Cooperativa Arte Popular Zapoteco, a family shop run by Freddy Bautista Vicente. While Freddy weaves rugs on site, much of the work is done by his family up in Teotitlán del Valle, the town near Oaxaca City best known for its rug weaving. The Tienda, mostly referred to as “Freddy's shop,” is one of the stores on the ground floor of the Ocean Park condominiums, just off the park in Santa Cruz at Calle Mitla 402; Freddy is in Local 8. Along the Dársena de Santa Cruz, the street that runs along the harbor out to the cruise ship pier, you will find some very expensive stores that cater to the cruceros, the people who come off the cruise ships to explore Huatulco. There is beautiful jewelry at Maria Bonita, as there is at Daniel Espinosa in the Marina Real Blue condos on Av. Santa Cruz as you enter Santa Cruz. More in line with smaller-but-nicer holiday shopping is the Galería Rubín at the beginning of the Dársena, at the curious Mexican address of Manzana 20, lotes 8 and 9. It's a terra-cotta-colored building with an open penthouse three floors up that is home to the gallery. Started by artist Susana Rubín, the gallery shows the work of many different artists, but it also has “tienditas,” small shops with crafts that would make great holiday gifts.
A short taxi ride or a twenty-minute walk (there's a big hill) from Santa Cruz on Avenida Benito Juárez brings you to Plaza Chahue, a small mall that includes Century 21 Realty and an Interjet ticket office on either side. At the back of the Plaza, in Local 12, you will find La Fortuna, a shop that specializes in artesanías and regalos (gifts). La Fortuna carries a lot of onyx pieces (lighting fixtures, vases, bath accessories), hand crafts, a few consigned pieces of antique Talavera work, and pottery and stone animal figures, among other wares. La Fortuna has an irregular schedule, but has several numbers posted on the door you can call to have the shop opened to look or to make a purchase. You'll definitely need that taxi if you missed the Bacaanda Foundation's table at the Huatulco Christmas Fair. The Foundation, known in Huatulco by its Mexican nonprofit name El Sueño Zapoteco, operates a workshop and retail store in Tangolunda, in the Centro Comercial Punto Tangolunda (the first set of commercial shops, across the street just before the Barceló Hotel). The retail store carries work by artisans trained and employed by the Foundation, crafts from other areas in southern Mexico and Central America, and some things—homemade soap, appliquéd aprons—made by supportive volunteers to benefit the Foundation. There are things here not found elsewhere in Huatulco, plus the chance to learn about the Foundation's work with the rural schools surrounding the resort.
Happy shopping, happy holidays!
Plans for Mexico City’s New Airport By Julie Etra
M
exico City's airport is fast b e c o m i n g obsolete and inefficient, and being a major Latin American hub for business and tourism, the government has been painfully aware of the need for a new, modern facility for years. And having just flown through Distrito Federal (D.F., Mexico City) on my way to Huatulco, I can personally attest to this need. Although Terminal 2 is not even a decade old, the existing facility has reached capacity and planning for the new airport goes back to the administration of Vicente Fox. Statistics show that in 2012 the Benito Juárez International Airport served a record 29.5 million passengers, by far the country's busiest airport. The facility has outgrown its location and as has occurred in many circumstances elsewhere in the world, the city has grown up and around the airport since its construction in the 1920s. With only two poorly laid out runways, simultaneous takeoffs and landings are precluded, greatly limiting service. Construction of the new airport will cost $169 billion MXN (approximately $10.2 billion US at today's rate) and will be able to serve up to 120 million passengers annually when the project is completed. It will be one of the largest infrastructure projects ever undertaken by the country. Completion of the first phase is anticipated by October 2020. The group overseeing the project expects no delays to the commencement of the first stage of the construction (I remain skeptical). Initial work is scheduled to start December 3, 2015, with site grading.
Central to the design are the symbols that occur on the Mexican flag; the golden eagle (Aguila Real) and the serpent and the building is meant to be a celebration of Mexican monuments and culture. Circulation will be open and easy and on one level, with 96 gates. The airport is projected to generate 5,000 direct or indirect jobs for every million passengers and with the anticipated capacity of 120 million passengers per year, a huge generator of new revenue. It is designed to surpass Atlanta, Georgia, currently the busiest airport in the world. This state-of-the-art airport will be the first carbon neutral facility outside of Europe and will include 100% recycling of water. A LEED-certified and sustainable facility, heating and cooling will be minimized due to the mild climate and ambient temperature in Mexico City throughout most of the year. Design is very site specific, taking into account soils, access, etc., and construction will be simple but very sophisticated using lightweight material and special glues to allow for large expanses of the dome exterior. President Peña Nieto has stated that the airport also includes the construction of aerospace and aviation universities, as well as a new housing development. It will be built in two phases with three parallel runways in the first phase and ultimately six runways, becoming the 'crown jewel' of the President's infrastructure projects. Contractors include the consortium of the Dutch company Netherlands Airport Consultants and the Mexican companies Grupo SACMAG and TADCO Constructora. Netherlands Airport Consultants was established in 1949 and has provided services to 550 airports in over 100 countries, according to its website. Services range from environmental impact studies, interior design, retrofits, security, and financial and business advisory services to airports. Clients include the airports of Abu Dhabi, Athens, Bangkok, Beijing, Bogotá, Cairo, Cape Town, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hong Kong, Johannesburg, Kuwait, Shanghai, and Singapore.
So who will finance this project, where will it be built, who are the designers, and what will it feature? Financing will come from the existing airport coffers and the Federal Government. After analyzing all the options it will be built next to the adjacent facility on the shores of the ancient Lago Texcoco, a mere 10 km from the existing airport, and not at an expanded facility. Initial costs are estimated at $169,000 million MXN (which seems low to me). The design team is being lead by Foster + Partners, an architecture and planning firm headquartered in London but with offices worldwide, in partnership with the FR-EE, the architecture firm of Fernando Romero, son-in-law of the entrepreneur Carlos Slim. Norman Foster has a personal interest in the project, since he has been a pilot since the age of 18. One of Romero's best-known projects is the new, super sleek Museo Soumaya.
SACMAG itself is comprised of seven companies including Geoambiente, which is tasked with environmental protection and restoration. With over 500 employees it was responsible for overseeing the improvements by ASUR at the Cozumel Airport. It also operates in Costa Rica, Puerto Rico and the United States. Information regarding its finances or its board of directors are not readily available to the general pubic.
The award of the design contract took place on September 2, 2104 following an analysis of eight proposals over eight months. Foster and his firm actually sought out the much younger Romero to bring a fresh and intrinsically Mexican perspective to the project.
TADCO has more than 25 years of experience in engineering, and management of major infrastructure projects including aeronautics (design and management of runways, heliports and terminals) in different states of Mexico, including Veracruz, Sinaloa, Durango, and Oaxaca.
The Eye 20
How To Take Your Pet To Mexico By Erin May
M
a n y people think of their pets as part of the family and wouldn’t think about taking an extended vacation without them. If you want to take a pet with you to Mexico, there are a few steps you need to take before your departure. You are allowed to enter Mexico with up to two dogs or cats. If you are traveling with more animals, it is recommended to contact the Mexican consulate or embassy nearest you for more information. Dogs and cats younger than three months may not legally enter Mexico. Before you take your pets to Mexico, they are required to be examined by a veterinarian and have up-to-date immunizations and you may be required to present the following documents when entering Mexico with your pet: -A certificate of good health issued by a licensed veterinarian within ten days of travel. This certificate must be on the stationery of, or show the contact information for, the veterinary practice that prepared it. You must supply a Spanish translation of this certificate. -If you are bringing your pet from the U.S., you could skip the certificate and have your veterinarian record all the necessary information on the USDA's form, APHIS 7001, provided you can get the USDA veterinarian for your state to countersign it. The form says the signature is “if needed,” but the guidelines say it's required. This form must be translated into Spanish as well. -Proof of vaccines against rabies and distemper administered at least 15 days before the pet’s arrival in Mexico. -Be sure these documents are dated and that you keep an extra copy for your records. It is also important that they clearly state your name and address in Canada or the U.S. and your address at your destination in Mexico, include a complete description of your pet’s species, age and sex and state that your pet has been examined and found to be free of all contagious diseases. If you are traveling to Mexico by air, check with the airline about their rules for transporting pets. It is also a good idea to check with your hotel or vacation rental manager as many places do not accept pets. Your animal may be placed in quarantine when entering Mexico if you do not have the proper paperwork with you. Even if all of your paperwork is in order, if your dog or cat does not look as if it is in good health, further examination by a licensed vet (at your expense) will be required before it is allowed to reenter the United States or Canada.
Some countries mandate that any certificate issued by a Canadian or US veterinarian have an official stamp. For more information on bringing other animals and birds into Mexico, visit the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection S e r v i c e s w e b s i t e ( U S ) www.aphis.usda.gov/wps/portal/aphis/home or the CFIA Services website (Canada) www.inspection.gc.ca/animals/terrestrialanimals/exports/eng/1300388920375/1300388985791 to find the latest requirements.During your stay in Mexico with your pet, some other tips for a stress free stay include: Bringing a first aid kit for your pet. These can be purchased at your veterinarian’s office or local pet store. If your cat or dog gets a tick and you are not near a vet, this kit will help you remove it. Put your pet on heartworm medicine. Dogs pick up heartworms quickly and easily when they are running around in rural places. Give your pet flea control medication. Especially if you are hoping to keep your pet with you in the hotel or vacation property. This will prevent your dog from picking up fleas from the last guest. By following the above steps you will find it very easy to take your pet to Mexico. Both you and your furry friend will have a wonderful stay! Erin May is the owner/operator of Mexico Vacation Rental and a distributor for Seacret Direct. She has a passion for travel, the outdoors and all things Mexico. She spends her time traveling, living and working in Calgary, Alberta, and Huatulco, Mexico.
The Eye Lecture Series Volunteering and community involvement Wednesday, December 16th, 2015 A panel of volunteers and organizational representatives will describe opportunities for you to contribute your expertise and energy to projects in and around Huatulco. Discover how those contributions help solve local efforts to solve local problems. The monthly lectures all take place on Wednesday, from 4:00 to 6:00 PM at Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del Mar
The Eye 21
Calendar Dec. 6-14th
Virgin of Guadalupe Dec. 12th
Christmas Eve Dec. 24th
Christmas Day Dec. 25th
Las Posadas (9 days) Dec. 16th
Full Moon Dec. 25th
Winter Solstice Dec. 21st
Night of the Radishes Dec. 23rd
Boxing Day Dec. 26th
New Year's Eve Dec.Moon 31st Full
Oct. 27
On the Coast Recurring Events:
Oaxaca City Recurring Events:
AA Meetings: English AA Huatulco, 7:30pm Remax Plaza, Every Wednesday English AA 6pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Thursday English Al-Anon 4:30pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Saturday
AA Meetings (English) Daily - Monday and Thursday - 7 pm Also Saturday at 1 pm - All 12 step groups welcome. 518 Colon
Weekly Markets Pochutla Market- Every Monday Yoga- Drop-in, by donation classes. 7am, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at Mansiones Cruz del Mar, Punta Santa Cruz, Huatulco. The Eye Meeting- Tuesdays at 3pm, Café Juanita, Marina Chahue
December Saturday December 5th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Sunday, December 6th Christmas Fair Santa Cruz, 10am-6pm Wednesday, December 16th The Eye Lecture Series- Learn about opportunities to volunteer in Huatulco. Limon Bistro in Mansiones Cruz del Mar Punta Santa Cruz, 4pm-6pm FREE Thursday, December 17th Amigos de la Musica concert Dreams Hotel 8pm Saturday December 19th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Sunday December 27th Encuentro de Cocineros- Local cooks gather with sample dishes to raise money for local charities. 2pm Santa Cruz 100 pesos
Religious Services Holy Trinity Anglican Episcopal Church Sundays 11 am Crespo 211 (between Morelos and Matamoros) Liturgy followed by coffee hour. Information 951-514-3799 Religious Society of Quaker Friends Meeting, Saturdays 10 am Free All are welcome. For more information and location, contact janynelyons@hotmail.com Weekly Markets Etla Market, Every Wednesday Tlacolula Market, Every Sunday Biking Oaxaca is More Beautiful on a Bicycle, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday - 9 to 10:30 pm Free, Meet in front of Santo Domingo Church Rental bicycles available at Mundo Ceiba, Quintana Roo 2011 You must bring a passport or Oaxacan credentials. They have tandems, too! Danzón Every Wednesday - 6:30 pm Free Alcalá and Constitución A tradition imported from Cuba, the danzón is a stately dance with syncopation. The citizens of Oaxaca gather weekly to dance and watch the dancers. Ethnobotanical Garden Tours in English Weekly - Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - 11 am $100 pesos Entrance Reforma and Constitutión. Bridge Tuesday Bridge Game at eMax Learning Center, Hidalgo 104, Jalatlaco, $20 pesos, no partner necessary, starting at 12 noon.
More Oaxaca Information: www.oaxacacalendar.com *On January 1st, 2016 the Oaxaca Calendar will close. A big thank you to Margaret Barclay for all her work!
The Eye 22