11 minute read
Mendocino National Forest l aytonvill E
driving FroM Hwy 101 to int Erstat E
t HE national For Est
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To reach Interstate 5 from Hwy 101, travel east on Hwy 162 north of Willits, past Covelo and through Mendocino National Forest. The journey is approximately 85 miles over both paved and dirt roads, and can take over three hours to drive, but the beautiful scenery and sweeping vistas will turn the chore of reaching the interstate into a delight. The route through Mendocino National Forest is usually closed until mid-May due to snow.
Closures are possible at other times of the year and road conditions may vary; for more information on conditions and closures before departing call the Covelo Ranger District at 707-983-6118 or the Grindstone Ranger District at 530-934-3316
MORE INFO: www.fs.usda.gov/mendocino
The Mendocino National Forest, just to the east of Covelo, covers an enormous area and is perfect for outdoor recreation. Of all of California’s 18 national forests, it is the only one that is not crossed by a paved road or highway. It is especially attractive when seeking tranquility and solitude.
Approximately 65 miles long and 35 miles across, Mendocino National Forest consists of one million acres of mountains and canyons that offer abundant recreational opportunities. Elevations in the forest range from 750 feet in the Grindstone C reek Canyon in the Sacramento Valley foothills on the forest’s eastern edge, to 8,092 feet at South Yolla Bolly Mountain in the northern part of the forest. The average elevation is about 4,000 feet. Four wilderness areas are located in the Mendocino National Forest: Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel, Yuki, Sanhedrin and Snow Mountain, running north to south respectively. The forest is also home to two federally designated Wild and Scenic Rivers: the Eel River received its designation in 1981, and the Black Butte River in 2006.
CAMPING: The camping experience in Mendocino National Forest is outstanding, with developed campgrounds offering facilities from backcountry camping to dispersed campsites (which are not as developed as the regular campgrounds and will usually have one or two primitive vault toilets, one or two picnic tables and fire rings). For up-to-date information contact the Covelo Ranger Station located just north of Covelo on Hwy 162 or phone 707-983-6118.
Getting there is easy. Take Hwy 162 North of Covelo for 1.5 miles; there you will find the ranger station. From the station turn east on Hwy 162 for 11 miles to Eel River Work Center, where Hwy 162 arrives at the Mendocino National Forest. As the roadway enters the national forest it becomes Forest Hwy 7 (FH 7) and changes from a paved road to a dirt road. From there all the campsites are accessible. Some of our favorites are listed below.
Eel River Campground is adjacent to the Eel River Work Station with river access. Hammerhorn Lake Campground is 18 miles north of Eel River Work Center via Road M1 (Indian Dick Rd.), and offers a 5-acre lake for trout fishing in a mixed conifer setting.
Little Doe Campground is 12 miles north of Eel River Work Center via Road M1 (Indian Dick Rd.). No piped water here, but a beautiful mixed conifer setting at 3,600 ft. Howard Meadows Campground is great for picnicking with fishing and nearby boat launching ramp. At 3,500 feet this campground is within walking distance of Howard Lake. Howard Lake Basin Recreation Area is a popular primitive experience. The 20-acre lake is accessible; however, it is recommended that vehicles with good clearance be used, such as a 4WD pickup truck, since the access road is not improved.
Several nicely dispersed camp sites include Atchison Camp on Forest Hwy 7, Section 24; Surveyor Camp, off Forest Hwy 7, 7 miles east of Eel River Station; Green Springs Camp and Rock Cabin Camp are trailhead camps and popular jumping off spots to the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Georges Valley and Soldier Ridge Camps are located at the northeast terminus of the Indian Dick Road. (M-1); both camps are at trail heads accessing the wilderness.
RECREATION: The diverse geography of this forest offers numerous recreational opportunities, including hiking, backpacking, boating (no motors), fishing, hunting, nature study, photography, and off-highway vehicle travel. The Mendocino National Forest supports an extensive resident trout fishery as well as salmon and warm-water fisheries. Rainbow trout are found in over 300 miles of streams and 2,000 acres of lakes and ponds. The varied terrain of the Mendocino provides endless challenges for mountain bikers. Wilderness areas are one of the few places in the Forest where bicycles are not permitted. Mendocino National Forest offers one of the finest opportunities for OHV recreationists in Northern California, with designated routes and facilities. Free OHV maps are available at the Covelo Ranger station.
E v E nts & FE stivals
• Year-Round: Laytonville Farmers’ Market
• M ay: Gaia Festival
• A ugust : Laytonville Junior Rodeo
Named after Frank B. Layton, a blacksmith who settled there in 1875, Laytonville sits at 1,670 feet above sea level, giving it the highest elevation of any town along Hwy 101 in Mendocino County. Small yet lively, it is a federally designated Frontier Community and has a warm and friendly “Old West” feel to it. Home to the “Best Lil’ Rodeo Around,” the area also hosts the annual Gaia Festival at a ranch 5 miles north of town. At one time a center of both the logging and ranching industries, today Laytonville’s economy relies primarily on service occupations and educational, community service and arts employment, along with some remaining ranching and agriculture.
Surrounded by beautiful mountains, dramatic redwood forests and rich prairie land graced with beautiful, gnarled valley oaks and canyon live oaks dripping California Spanish moss, this is a sleepy little hideaway where the frantic pace of modern city life gives way to the measured cadences of nature.
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95 Laytonville Farmers’ Market
Year-round on Mondays from 2:30 to 5:30 pm , June through October at Alberts on Hwy 101, and 2:30 to 4:30 pm , November through May in the Laytonville Elementary School cafeteria, local farmers set up shop in Laytonville. They bring glorious offerings of the best in local fresh fruits and vegetables, artisan goat cheeses, ranch meats, eggs, garden bouquets, handcrafted clothing and much more. They also come to share their ideas and visions for future projects in their community. This is the Laytonville Certified Farmers’ Market (LCFM), in the heart of Mendocino County.
The Laytonville Certified Farmers’ Market provides opportunities for people in rural Mendocino County to develop new businesses, and gives everyone a chance to visit with friends, enjoy local musicians, and purchase delicious, healthy food while supporting local farms.
MORE INFO: MCFarm.org and see Farmers’ Markets listings on page 8.
Laytonville Junior Rodeo
Cowboy up! For 24 years now, Laytonville has been holding the rootin’ tootin’est junior rodeo around. At press time, no information is available about the 2023 Rodeo, which normally occurs in the last week of August.
You’ll get to see kids competing in categories from “Pee Wee” (5 and under) all the way up through “Jr/Sr” (ages 14-18). The littlest ones compete at lead line barrels and goat ribbon untying, while events for older participants include barrel racing, pole bending, goat tying, breakaway roping, calf, sheep and steer riding and more.
One of the Jr/Sr categories is chute dogging “Chute dogging is getting into a bucking chute, like bull riders come out of, with a 300-500 pound steer. You hold on to his horns, they open the gate, you get 10 feet away and then you have to wrestle him until he falls over.”
— Laytonville chute-dogger Henry Shere.
Spectator admission is remarkably affordable, and kids 5 and under get in for free. So come on down, and cheer on the kids!
WHERE: Hwy 101 to Laytonville, follow the signs to the Laytonville Rodeo Grounds at Harwood Park, 44400 Willis Ave.
MORE INFO: Call Regina at 707-354-1630, laytonvillerodeo.org
ConfusionHill.com
Approximately 25 miles north of Laytonville is the town of Leggett, located at the junction of Hwy 101 and Hwy 1. The former logging town attracts campers and travelers during the summer months, and hordes of fishermen when the salmon swim upstream to spawn in the late fall. The population of Leggett fluctuates between 350 and 500 depending on the season. Summer temperatures can hover in the 90s, but the Eel River is always nearby for cooling off. Piercy, about 9 miles northwest of Leggett and located on the South Fork of the Eel River, is an unincorporated area immediately below the Mendocino-Humboldt County line.
97 Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area
Here at the “gateway to the tall trees country,” weary travelers can refresh themselves with a dip in the South Fork of the Eel River, a quiet picnic, or a stroll through the beautiful redwoods. One of the last remaining stands of virgin, old-growth redwood in the area can be found on the Grove Trail.
There is great fishing here, too. Standish-Hickey also offers three campgrounds, with over 150 campsites available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area began as a Save the Redwoods League campground in 1922, and, in the 1950s, 500 additional acres were donated by descendants of Miles Standish, one of the original pilgrims. The 1,200-year-old Captain Miles Standish Tree named after him is one of the park’s premier attractions. Additional acreage was acquired over the years, and now the park is over 1,000 acres. The second part of the park’s name was chosen in memory of Edward Ritter Hickey, the son of a local lumberman, who died of the Spanish influenza in 1918 while caring for victims of the pandemic. His family also donated some of the land.
WHERE: 1.5 miles north of Leggett on Hwy 101.
MORE INFO: 707-925-6482, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=423
98 Confusion Hill
Just north of Leggett, you’ll find Campbell Bros. World Famous Confusion Hill, the most exciting roadside attraction in northern Mendocino County. Listed as a California Point of Historical Interest, and featured on Ripley’s Believe It or Not, this is definitely a one-of-a-kind attraction. It has been the home of mystery and fun since 1949. When you step into the Gravity House, your body will seem to defy the laws of nature. You will experience contradictory optical and physical sensations that will make you ask yourself, IS SEEING BELIEVING? There are no right or wrong answers at Confusion Hill.
Be sure to check out the Redwood Shoe House. There is also the unique, miniature Mountain Train Ride that will take you on a 30-minute ride up the hill and back down. Along the way you will learn about the Redwood Forest and see historical logging equipment on the side of the track. Confusion Hill is also the home of the World’s Tallest Free Standing Redwood Chainsaw Carving, and has been listed in Ripley’s Believe It or Not. While at Confusion Hill, take a few minutes to pay your respects at the Twin Towers Memorial Trees. There is also a gift shop, snack bar and playground for the kids. Please note that the Train Ride and Snack Bar are seasonal and are open Memorial Day to Labor Day only.
WHERE: Along Hwy 101, 15 miles south of Garberville (exit left) and 7 miles north of Leggett (exit right).
MORE INFO: 707-925-6456, ConfusionHill.com
99 One Log House
The One Log House is the heartwood of a 2,100+ year-old redwood, hollowed out by hand, and fashioned into a tiny home; complete with all the amenities. Although the timeline for this tree starts before the birth of Christ, its modern timeline starts with its cutting in 1946. The log for the One Log House was cut down by Art Schmock and his son. At that time, the tree was on property owned by Georgia Pacific Co. of Eureka. This particular log was cut, rolled onto a trailer, and metal straps were welded around it for support. It was then transported to Eureka where it was hollowed out by hand, using tools such as drills, chisels, wedges and foot adzes. The log itself is 32 feet long, 10-11 feet in diameter and has an interior height slightly over 6 feet. The living area is divided into kitchen, bathroom, living and bedroom areas. In the 8-month process of hollowing the log, enough wood chips were produced to build a traditional 5-bedroom home.
The One-Log House has traveled to and stayed at various places in Humboldt and Mendocino Counties since 1946. Open since 1999, One Log House Cafe & Giftshop sits near Richardson Grove State Park on Hwy 101, serving fresh sandwiches, ice cream sundaes and organic, locally roasted coffee and snacks. Visitors can tour inside the One Log House itself, enjoy the gift shop and cafe, and even grab some legendary Humboldt cannabis at the 21+ dispensary.
Outdoor picnicking areas, air-conditioned tables, and dog runs are on site. Antique logging photos and local art are on display. Souvenir penny smashing machine, local crafts and wild-foraged items, Bigfoot, and Cannabis Americana make this a stop that has something for everyone.
EV chargers coming in 2020. Handicap accessible. Open daily, year-round. WHERE: On Hwy 101, 9 miles south of Garberville next to Richardson Grove.
MORE INFO: 707-247-2717, OneLogHouse.com
100 The Peg House
On Hwy 101 north of Leggett is one of the most beloved roadside stops along the Redwood Highway. The Peg House is featured in Sunset magazine’s Top Road Food Spots in the West: “One of the 25 Absolutely Best Places to Eat Along Western Highways.” Across from Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area, the ‘Peg House’ features a gourmet deli, espresso bar, gift shop, general store complete with picnic and camping supplies and an outdoor organic grill. Owners Diana and Gary Ballard-Doll have it all — right in the middle of nowhere and on the way to everywhere. Their espresso bar features some of the best mud north of San Francisco. Signature Coffee, roasted in Redway and freshly ground on site, goes into an old Rancilio espresso machine that has been building up steam for decades. The espresso that comes out has an aroma and crema thick enough to make a city barista cry.
The delicatessen features fantastic sandwiches (turkey roasted there) and other delights. The Grill is outside, in back, where you can sit in a garden. The grill features Tri-Tip sandwiches, Humboldt Grass-Fed Beef burgers and fresh, sweet Arcata Bay oysters. A beautiful redwood stage creates a venue for summer music, movies, and other events. Diana’s award-winning jams, jellies, salad dressings, candies, brownies and cookies make a simple coffee break an event. Try the “Mendo Mookie” — a cross between an oatmeal muffin and a cookie. The Peg House has some of the coolest gifts on the road. More collector items than tourist fodder, it features unique postcards, books, signs, locally-made designer jewelry and other classy gifts and gear. Open from 7am ’til sunset, hours varying with the seasons. Remember, “Never Don’t Stop” at The Peg House.
WHERE: 2 miles north of Leggett on Hwy 101.
MORE INFO: 707-925-6444, ThePegHouse.com
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Smithe Redwoods State Reserve
Traveling north from San Francisco along the Redwood Highway (U.S. 101), the first old-growth redwoods you’ll encounter are in Smithe Redwoods State Natural Reserve. Here you’ll find the beautiful Frank and Bess Smithe Grove of redwoods, as well as Dora Creek Falls, a lovely 60-foot waterfall. Because Smithe Redwoods is a natural reserve, the park is managed to minimize human impact, so there are no developed campgrounds or trails, or even a parking lot. There is, however, a paved pullout near it on Hwy 101 where you can pull over and park, and within the reserve you’ll find a picnic area and easy access to the South Fork of the Eel River for fishing and swimming. From about 1920 until the early 1960s it was a popular tourist resort called Lane’s Redwood Flat, owned by George W. Lane, one of the builders of the Redwood Highway. It was then purchased by the Save the Redwoods League, which deeded it to the State of California.
WHERE: 4 miles north of Leggett on Hwy 101.
MORE INFO: 707-247-3318, www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=427