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Avoid an avalanche Expose photos perfectly Climb in crampons
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GEAR OF THE YEAR Our top picks of 2016 revealed
ZERO G
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As chosen by Leo Houlding, Mick Fowler, Alan Hinkes & more p32
ERIC JONES A lifetime of adventure
AONACH MOR
Classic climbs on the west face
UTMB 2016
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Address: Trek & Mountain Ltd, Rangefield Court, Farnham Trading Estate, Farnham, Surrey GU9 9NP Tel: 0117 230 6085 (Editorial and Advertising), 01202 586 848 (Subscriptions) Email: info@trekandmountain.com Web: www.trekandmountain.com
THE TEAM Editor/Publisher Chris Kempster (chris@trekandmountain.com) Art Editor Kevin Lowery (kev@trekandmountain.com) Sub Editor Amanda Travis (amanda@trekandmountain.com) Contributing Editor (Ski Touring & Mountain Running) Sophie Nicholson (sophie@trekandmountain.com) Technical Editor Alun Richardson (alun@trekandmountain.com)
CONTRIBUTORS Editorial: Dan Aspel, Will Harris, Pete Hill, Andy Kirkpatrick, Alun Richardson Photography: Pete Hill, Alan Hinkes, Rhys Jones, Andy Kirkpatrick, Franck Oddoux, Steve Peake, Alun Richardson, Pascal Tournaire, Amanda Travis Cover image: Shutterstock Printed by: Stephens & George Distributed by: Comag Specialist Licensing enquiries: licensing@trekandmountain.com
THANKS TO:
Alan Hinkes, Eric Jones, Rhys Jones, Steve Peake
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Welcome... to the last edition of 2016, in which we celebrate the world’s most beautiful mountains
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t’s been an action-packed year here at Trek & Mountain, and in our efforts to bring you the best and most exciting stories and features from around the world, we’ve travelled from our base in the Alps to the Himalayas and the Appalachians, from the Dolomites to the Cairngorms, and enjoyed every minute of it! As well as reliving some of the best moments of the year just gone, the Xmas holidays are also a time for looking ahead and making plans for the year to come. For Trek & Mountain, 2017 is set to be an exciting year – firstly from January we will be
producing a bigger and better-than-ever magazine, and in that issue (out in early January) there will be some even more exciting news – so don’t forget to pick up your copy! In the meantime, wherever you are, enjoy your Xmas holidays and we’ll see you in the mountains in 2017!
Chris Kempster Editor Email me at: chris@trekandmountain.com
www.youtube.com/ trekandmountain Copyright 2016 Trek&Mountain. While every effort is made to ensure the advice and information printed in this publication is accurate, the publishers cannot be held liable for any damage of any nature arising from the information printed or by the activities undertaken by readers.
THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS Our expert writers this month include...
SUBSCRIPTIONS SUBSCRIBE ONLINE AT: www.trekandmountain.com/subs PHONE: 01202 586 848 EMAIL: subs@trekandmountain. com POST: Trek & Mountain Subscriptions, Select Publisher Services Ltd, PO Box 6337, Bournemouth BH1 9EH
ALUN RICHARDSON
DAN ASPEL
SOPHIE NICHOLSON
WILL HARRIS
A British Mountain Guide, Alun has led treks and expeditions around the world for the last 30 years, and is also the author of the highly-regarded Rucksack Guides published by A&C Black.
An outdoor journalist and qualified Mountain Leader, Dan enjoys scrambling in the Lakes and North Wales in summer and mountaineering in Scotland in the winter.
Trek & Mountain’s ski touring and mountain running expert goes behind the scenes at this year’s Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc on page 68 and nearly gets herself onto the podium too.
Will is a Chamonix-based alpinist whose expeditions include Patagonia, Alaska, Nepal and more. Currently on the Guides scheme, Will ‘feeds the rat’ as much as he can!
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Features
Expedition reports, route guides, interviews and topical features
22 Aonach Mor West Face
As the Welsh solo climbing legend finally hangs up his boots, Dan Aspel talks to the great man about a lifetime of adventurous exploits...
32 World’s Most Beautiful Mountains
68 Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc
Everyone’s got their favourite, but what do the experts think? We ask 10 leading mountaineers, writers and photographers to name their ‘most beautiful’ peak
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62 The Interview: Eric Jones
In this month’s Great British Day Out, Alun Richardson visits two classic routes on Aonach Mor’s west face, Golden Oldie and Western Rib
It’s the greatest ultra mountain running event in the world, but just what is it like to compete in the UTMB? Sophie Nicholson goes undercover at this year’s event, and very nearly finds herself on the podium…
SKILLS & ADVICE Expert advice and instruction from T&M’s mountain professionals
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Xmas Gift Guide 16
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48 Knowledge: Crampon technique
This month we look at the basic techniques for walking and climbing in crampons
50 Masterclass: Avalanche Avoidance
Dave Hollinger from Glenmore Lodge gives us 4
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some timely advice on how to avoid getting caught in an avalanche
56 Masterclass: Outdoor Photography
In part 3 of his series, Alun Richardson delves further into your camera’s workings to help you get the perfect exposure
FREE PETZL TIKKINA WORTH £20
Gear
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WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE! P30
The latest outdoors gear tested
78 Key Product: Rab Zero G
We test out Rab’s latest lightweight down jacket, their first to use ultra high quality 1000-fillpower down
80 Gear Of the Year
It’s been another great year for innovative and high-quality outdoor gear – we look back over the past nine issues to recap on the products that won our Editor’s Choice awards and the gear featured in our Key Product reviews
86 On test: Lifeventure Thermal Protection
We try out three products aimed at keeping you warm, and possibly alive, this winter
87 On test: Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket
Arc’teryx’s all-conditions shell gets an update for thsi winter and we check it out to see if it’s still one of the best available
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REGULARS
News, opinion, subscription offers and more
9 Breaking Trail
Our action-packed front section, including Expedition News (p12), Book of the Month (p12), Talks & Events (p14), Gadget of the Month (p14)
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Receive a free Petzl Tikkina headtorch worth £20 when you subscribe!
42 Trek Directory
Looking to join a trek or expedition in 2017? Visit our directory of the leading trekking and expedition companies for inspiration
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88 Back issues
Missed an issue of Trek & Mountain? Complete your collection here...
89 Next month
Can’t wait for next month’s issue? Here’s a sneak preview of what you can expect in the December edition...
90 #dayslikethese
Some days in the mountains stay in the memory forever – Phil Brookes tells us about one of his favourite days when climbing Ecuador’s Cotopaxi
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88 Back issues and digital editions DECEMBER 2016
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www.haglofs.com
We’re from Scandinavia, so there’s really no other option.
Beat the elements
Why are we obsessing about making ridiculously good outdoor gear, you might ask?
December 2016
NEWS
EVENTS
COMMENT
BOOKS
TRAINING
EXPEDITIONS
Ranulph Fiennes to climb Vinson 8
Fiennes in Antarctica 8 Kendal Mountain Festival report 10 Andy Kirkpatrick 11 Expedition news 12 Book of the Month 12 Talks and Events 14 Gadget of the Month 14
Gadget of
14 the month
of 12 Book the month
11 Andy Kirkpatrick DECEMBER 2016
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BreakingTrail
Ran Fiennes to climb Vinson The legendary explorer heads to Antarctica in the latest stage of his Global Reach Challenge...
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xplorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes has set off to climb Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, in his pursuit to become the first person to have crossed both polar ice caps and climb the highest mountain on each continent to raise money for the Marie Curie charity. The 72-year-old, who is famed for pushing himself to the limits despite ailing health, will contend with -400C temperatures and severe winds as he tries to scale the 4,892m peak. Sir Ranulph is halfway to completing his Global Reach Challenge in aid of Marie Curie, (see diagram below) having already crossed both polar ice caps, and climbed Everest, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus, however he still needs to successfully summit Mount Vinson, Aconcagua, Carstensz Pyramid and Denali to complete his challenge. Sir Ranulph is raising vital funds for the charity Marie Curie, who will use the money raised to help provide vital care and support to people living with a terminal illness and their families in the UK. Speaking about the imminent climb, Sir Ranulph said: “I’m nervous, this is going to be a difficult mountain for me. I’ve been training on
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Snowdonia, but you just don’t know what you might face and this mountain is very remote so it’s not so easy to get help if you find yourself in trouble. I really hope everyone will go to my JustGiving page and donate to Marie Curie.” No stranger to physical challenges, Sir Ranulph has suffered two heart attacks and undergone a double heart bypass. He also suffers from vertigo and the potentially serious breathing condition when climbing, CheyneStokes. His motivation comes from a determination to raise funds for Marie Curie. Dr Jane Collins, Chief Executive of the charity said: “Sir Ranulph has an unfailing commitment to raise money for Marie Curie and he is quite literally going to the ends of the earth and back to do so. His determination and ability to push himself to his limits is truly inspiring. We hope Sir Ranulph will inspire others to take on their own personal challenge in aid of Marie Curie and help us care for more people living with a terminal illness.” Sir Ranulph has raised £18m in total for charity and aims to raise £20m for good causes in his lifetime. To donate, go to: www.justgiving.com/ Ranulph
LEAD STORY Sir Ranulph in Alaska
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BreakingTrail FESTIVAL REPORT
Kendal kills it! T&M reports from the biggest-ever Kendal Mountain Festival, held on Nov 16-19 WORDS: SOPHIE NICHOLSON PICTURES: KEVIN MORAN
Heroes at every turn
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his year’s KMF programme was a veritable adventure smorgasboard packed full of wild flavours and inspirational textures. From films to photos, specialist sports sessions to trail running races, lectures to pub quizzes, Kendal has something to appeal to all motivations and types of adventurer. T&M enjoyed a hectic weekend at the festival and here are some of the highlights.... The Basecamp Village – Every successful
adventure needs a quality basecamp and Kendal is no exception. New last year, The Basecamp Village at the Brewery Arts Centre is the main social hub of the festival; a huge marquee built out of reclaimed wood, decorated with prayer flags and packed full of exhibitors, brands, and places to grab a coffee and a snack. This year’s Basecamp Village was expanded to include the Shackleton Tent with the Berghaus climbing zone and MoonBoard training wall, Blacks
A busy lecture theatre
Boardman-Tasker winner Simon McCartney
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Outdoor Retail area and the fab Marmot bar where we enjoyed a local ale (or several) in the evenings. The Books – Stephen Venables did a fantastic job hosting this year’s Boardman-Tasker Award ceremony, conducting entertaining and in-depth interviews with four of the five nominees. In the end, the coveted award went to Simon McCartney for ‘The Bond’ (as featured in last month’s issue!) which details the story of two legendary climbs he made in Alaska with his climbing partner, the Californian ‘Stonemaster’ Jack Roberts. In his acceptance speech, Simon took the time to recognise the role Kendal has had to play in the world of mountain sports: “If there was ever a way of representing what climbing is about, this festival is it.” The Films – Kendal showcases the very best in outdoor adventure filmmaking, with many of the leading adventure film makers on the planet choosing to premiere their movies in front of its live audiences. Among this year’s highlights were the world premiere of ‘Blocheads’ by Al Lee (a bouldering spectacular that won Best Climbing Film and the People’s Choice Award), the UK premiere of Leo Houlding’s big wall climbing film ‘Mirror Wall’, the world premiere of ‘TUPUENDO’ (Stephan Siegrist and Thomas Senf’s mysterious climbing adventure in the Kashmir) and the Judges’ Special Prize winner ‘Run Forever’, Nick Brown’s film following legendary mountain runner and cancer survivor Nicky Spinks on her Double Bob Graham Attempt. Personal favourites were ‘Link Sar’ (Jon Griffith’s extraordinary film about his four-year mission to make the first ascent of the 7,000m peak in the Karakoram) and ‘King of the Mountain’, a fascinating and beautiful short film about the Rwandan road cycling team that had nothing to do with mountaineering but everything to do
Mountain flavours from around the world
with making you stop and think). The People – What ultimately makes Kendal so special is that it feels like being at a tribal gathering where you feel completely at home. A coming together of a 15,000-strong outdoor family dressed in down jackets, wearing colourful beanies, and supping pints of ale with huge smiles on their faces in cool venues like the Lowe Alpine Bothy or the Vats bar – Kendal’s claim to be ‘the main social event for outdoor enthusiasts in the UK’ is 100% legit. Inclusive, welcoming, helpful, hilarious and downright fun – the team behind the event itself is overflowing with enthusiastic characters. Two presenters in particular stood out for me this year – Trek & Mountain columnist Andy Kirkpatrick who presented this year’s awards ceremony in the most random, amusing and brilliant way, and Nick Bullock who took centre stage at the Mountain Equipment Scottish Winter Session with a Ben Elton-esque, truly entertaining performance. The New Stuff – Not ones to rest on their laurels, the Kendal Mountain Festival organisers are never afraid to try something new or do things a little bit differently in order to keep moving forward and expanding the appeal of the Festival. New this year was the ‘theming’ of the films into categories according to emotion or motivation rather than genre or sport. This year’s themes included ‘Conviction’, ‘Change’, Fight’, ‘Fear’, ‘Flow’, ‘Joy’ and ‘Truth’. It was a brave and novel approach to organising a packed programme and one that seemed to be reasonably popular once people had got their head around what was actually involved. Another addition that made a positive impression this year was the Movie Truck – a purpose-built mobile cinema venue. If you’re in the market for a new set of wheels and a way to impress your mates then grab yourself one of these articulated trucks, invite 100 of your mates round and settle down to watch some movies in your own cosy cinema! Addictive, vibrant, inspiring and a whole heap of fun – I’m already looking forward to coming back to Kendal next year. Hope to see you there? More info: www.mountainfest.co.uk
Music in the basecamp area
Learning from other’s mistakes may keep you alive
Andy Kirkpatrick ‘Scar y Stories’
“D
on’t tell me stories like that!” is an often-said phrase, coming at the end of a tale of climbing woe, a broken rope, a snapped flake, a lightning strike. Climbing is full of tales of disaster, but also tales of close escapes; every runner ripping out but the leader landing unscathed, a monster rockfall that somehow bounces off a team’s invisible force field. When I climbed the Nose on El Cap in March, I’d told one of the climbers about another climber’s rope getting chopped, how he’d fallen and been grabbed by his attentive second (just as the rope end fell past them). The story was designed to make him think about his ropes; what they were running over, what can happen if you mess up. To know such stories and pass them on – rules written in blood you could say – is one way we learn as climbers, other people’s mistakes not wasted in the telling. By reading forums, listening to pub tales, and keeping an eye on ‘Accidents in North American Mountaineering’, you pick up some great tips. Two of the biggest ones would be a: never do a simul abseil (as you stand a good chance of dying, if the stats show anything) and b: never abseil on two ropes joined by a figure-of-eight (because it rolls off and your ropes come
apart – use a overhand knot instead). By reading about the downfall of other climbers you can see that accidents tend to be the combination of several factors, three of the biggies being ‘assumptions’, poor communication and haste, each of these further complicated by bad weather, a lack of equipment or planning. Whenever I hear of someone having an epic I’m always interested in the learning, telling people to write about it, pass on what they’ve worked out went wrong (some people don’t, and so are forever messing up and having one near miss after another). Such a focus could be seen as being a little morbid, a little negative, and it’s true I can foresee bad outcomes from most climbing activities, from bee attacks to getting a quickdraw stuck up your arse (nasty one, that). In fact, I don’t find such things as anything but instructional, no different from a general being interested as much in defeats as victories. But back to my friend on the Nose, and tales of snapping lead lines. Unfortunately instead of taking it as a friendly warning, he was petrified that every single lead or jumar or abseil his rope was going to snap, abrade, get chopped, plunging him 1000m to his doom. And so that one story of a broken rope almost ruined his whole climb... but also maybe kept him alive?
More at: www.andy-kirkpatrick.com
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BreakingTrail EXPEDITION NEWS
Avalanche on Ama Dablam Tragedy in the Himalaya, joy in Yosemite and respects to pay elsewhere
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e start this month’s round-up with news of a tragic avalanche on Ama Dablam in Eastern Nepal. The avalanche was triggered by a 5.6 earthquake in the area and struck the mountain on the 28th November, killing Thundu Sherpa and injuring British climber Ciaran Hill. The pair were climbing together and part of a team of 13 mountaineers en route from Camp II to Camp III on the 6,812m mountain when the incident occurred. Trek & Mountain contributor Jon Gupta, who was guiding on the mountain at the time, was first on the scene with Lakpa Onjo Sherpa, and the pair did what they could for the victims while waiting for the rescue helicopter. A long line rescue was conducted and Mr Hill was taken to Kathmandu for treatment. The avalanche has been listed as an aftershock of the devastating Gorkha earthquake that hit Nepal on the 25th of April 2015 killing 9,000 people and injuring nearly 22,000. Thundu leaves behind a wife and two boys aged 8 and 14 who are at school in Kathmandu. If you would like to make a donation to help the family please visit: www. justgiving.com/timmosedale and mark your donation ‘For Thundu’. Reports are emerging that China is planning to build a $14.7 million International Mountaineering Centre on the North side of Everest in Tibet. The proposed 900,000 sq ft
facility is set to open in 2019 and will include travel agencies, a helicopter rescue base, medical services, and a mountaineering museum. China and Tibet hope the centre will increase tourism and set a higher standard of infrastructure than that found on the South side in Nepal. Reaction to news of the facility has been mixed so far. Some believe it will improve overall safety on the whole mountain while others are more concerned with the overdevelopment of the North side which has traditionally been the reserve of real climbers. Motivations for building the Centre are the subject of current debate with the likes of Alan Arnette claiming that it’s all about boosting simple tourism. He believes that the centre will make it easy for “the emerging middle and upper class throughout China to see Everest up close and ‘explore’ Tibet. Czech rock climbing legend Adam Ondra has once again set the vertical world alight with his rapid ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite. Widely considered to be the longest and hardest rock route in the world, the Dawn Wall had only been climbed once before by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015. It took 19 days for Caldwell and Jorgeson to free the 900m high Dawn Wall last January it took Ondra just eight days less than two years on. “For Tommy and I, the question was whether it was even possible,” explained Jorgeson in a
A happy Adam Ondra on the Dawn Wall
letter to Rock and Ice magazine. “We left lots of room to improve the style and Adam did just that! Super impressive that he was able to adapt to the Dawn Wall’s unique style and sort out so many complex sequences so quickly”. Ondra’s achievement may be extraordinary but he is already looking ahead to the next challenge. The Dawn Wall in 24 hours then? “I think…(it) is a nice challenge,” Ondra said in an interview with Czech climbing website eMontana. “It won’t be my ambition for the next year, that’s what I am sure of. I would like to take a mental rest for a few seasons but it would be interesting as a dream for life.” The mountaineering world mourns the passing of two legends of the sport with news of the deaths of renowned Pakistani mountaineer Hassan Sadpara and the legendary Japanese climber Junko Tabei. Hassan Sadpara was the first Pakistani to summit six 8,000m peaks and the second Pakistani to climb Everest. He was diagnosed with cancer in early November and passed away on the 21st November aged just 53 years old.
Chris Bonington Mountaineer by Sir Chris Bonington (£20, Vertebrate Publishing)
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his revised version of ‘Chris Bonington Mountaineer’ (with no less than five new chapters) is the next best thing to having the great man himself sitting next to you and showing you photo albums of all his greatest adventures, while regaling you with tales from one of the most exciting eras of British mountaineering. Bonington’s story follows a familiar pattern – early days rock climbing in the UK, followed by forays to the Alps and finally, the big prize, expeditions to the Himalayas. The achievements are anything but ordinary, though, and even those familiar with Bonington’s climbing CV will gain renewed respect from flicking through the sumptuous photo spreads in this book. From Annapurna II (1960) to the Central Pillar of Freney (1961), the Central Tower of Paine (1963), to the Eiger North Face Direct and the Old Man of Hoy in 1966,
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the breadth of objectives is staggering – and this is just one decade! There followed all the famous (and infamous) Himalayan expeditions of course – Annapurna, Everest, K2, Changabang, the Ogre – yet the latter (and new) chapters which detail Bonington’s activities in later life, whether rock climbing in Morocco, or sailing to Greenland, are no less interesting and absorbing. The book is naturally tinged with sadness, with the regular loss of friends and climbing partners over the years, yet the abiding vibe of this book is an unquenchable thirst for adventure and – even in his ninth decade – an undiminished love for climbing and the mountains. Chris Bonington’s story is one of the greatest not just in Britain’s – but world mountaineering’s – history, and no outdoor-lover’s bookshelf is complete without a copy of this fine, and now even better, tome.
Punches above its weight
ALPINE PRO JACKET Lightweight and versatile, waterproof GORE-TEX ÂŽ Pro jacket; fully featured for any alpine pursuit, with articulated arms, helmet compatible hood, angled pit zips and AquaGuard ÂŽ waterproof zips, this is the ultimate all-round mountain jacket.
montane.co.uk
BreakingTrail TALKS & EVENTS Adventure Travel Show Jan 21-22
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Warren Miller film tour Jan 9-19
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ith 11 screenings across 10 tour locations, the 67th annual Warren Miller film, ‘Here, There & Everywhere’, will bring the thrill of action snowsports to UK enthusiasts, as the world’s most accomplished skiers and snowboarders scour the globe for untracked powder and the pursuit of adventure. Warren Miller Entertainment has been a pioneer in action sports cinematography since 1949 and in this latest Warren Miller film, take a freeski voyage with industry veterans Ingrid Backstrom and Wendy Fisher in Crested Butte, follow snowboarders Morgan Hebert and Ryland Bell as they get rowdy on first descents in Alaska and venture with a host of world-renowned athletes as they push the boundaries of their talent on snow-capped peaks, vast glaciers and towering, big-air jumps. Information about the festival, the trailer and tickets are available online. More info: www.warrenmiller.co.uk
he Adventure Travel Show, taking place at London’s Olympia on 21- 22 January is a chance to immerse yourself in a weekend of adventure travel inspiration and discover off the beaten track travel experiences with the biggest collection of specialist travel operators under one roof. There are also over 100 free talks in four theatres from explorers, industry experts, guide book writers and expedition leaders. Get face-to-face with the biggest collection of specialist adventure travel companies in the business all under one roof. They will be on hand to offer advice on everything from walking and trekking, epic journeys, exploratory travels and exclusive expeditions to safaris, overland trips, lifechanging volunteering projects and much more. Full details, talk timetables and tickets visit are available online. More info: www.adventureshow.com
Mick Fowler and Vic Saunders Jan 24
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his January, The Alpine Club will be hosting a talk by Mick Fowler in which he recounts re-uniting with Vic Saunders 29 years after they climbed the Golden Pillar of Spantik together, to climb the stunning north buttress of Sersank (6,050m) in the Indian Himalaya. The pair reached the summit at 12.30pm on 3rd October by the unclimbed 1,100m north face of the mountain. “The climb ticked just about all of the boxes for us – interesting area, great company, unclimbed face, unclimbed summit, a striking line that was visible from afar and led straight to the summit, a challenging climb, and one with an aesthetically pleasing and different descent route. And it all gave us old men so much pleasure that we are already thinking about plans for next year,” says Fowler. Details of the talk can be found on The Alpine Club website. More info: www.alpine-club.org.uk
TOM TOM ADVENTURER £270 GPS watch, music player, heart rate monitor... is this the perfect training partner?
What is it?
What we like?
How does it work?
What we don’t like?
The Adventurer is a tough new outdoors watch which is geared more towards helping you train and providing you with stats, rather than navigation in the hills. As well as tracking your outdoors activities, it has a built-in heart rate monitor, compass, music player, and GPS capabilities.
Navigating the watch couldn’t be easier! With the absence of any labelling of the buttons, we were slightly concerned; however, it only took a few minutes to get the hang of it. From the clock screen, press the ‘up’ button to access your music, the ‘right’ button to select your activity – trail run, hike, swim (water resistant to 40m), ski and so on, ‘down’ to change your settings and ‘left’ to see your stats.
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The built-in heart rate monitor removes the need for wearing an additional strap around your chest, and the fact that you can store music – over 500 songs – and listen to it through a Bluetooth headset was also a bonus when taking this watch out for a run.
Battery life – with up to 11 hours of power in GPS mode, and up to 24 hours in hiking mode, the battery life is not adequate for multi-day treks. However, for training rather than expedition use, charging it between sessions is no problem.
Where can I get it? Order online at www.tomtom.com.
GPS watch, music player and heart rate monitor all in one
trailbreak ex vacuum bottles
• Made from high grade stainless steel – rugged and durable • Drink straight from the bottle using the ClickClose lid • Double walled stainless steel cup - keeps drinks hot once poured • Silicone sleeve improves grip and prevents cold fingers • Wide mouth makes filling and cleaning easier • Sizes available: 0.75l and 1l
www.primus.eu
For stockists contact: sales@rosker.co.uk – 02392 528711
BreakingTrail
Xmas Gift Guide Great festive gift ideas for the trekker or mountaineer in your life..! ROHAN MERINO BASE LAYERS £34/£30
Merino wool has an uncanny ability to regulate your temperature in a wide range of conditions. It’s nice and cosy in the cold but never too hot when the temperature or your activity levels start to rise. Merino wool is also incredibly soft and comfortable next to the skin – so there’s none of the unpleasant itching you get with ordinary wool. It ‘wicks’ moisture extremely efficiently – keeping you far more comfortable. Rohan are offering T&M readers £15 off their Merino Union 150 Crew (RRP £49) and Merino Union 150 Leggings (RRP £45). Just take this page to any Rohan store, call Freephone 0800 840 1412 quoting code TAM5, or visit rohan.co.uk and enter code TAM5 at the basket page. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion, or against a previous purchase. Offer ends Dec 18, 2016. More info: www.rohan.co.uk
HANWAG FERRATA COMBI GTX £230
A lightweight alpine boot, the award-winning Ferrata Combi GTX has been developed with challenging terrain in mind and is last constructed for enhanced stability. Compatible with hybrid crampons, the boot features a full-length shank between the inner and outer soles for outstanding stiffness. The boots are further enhanced with a high-quality and grippy, Vibram Climbing II sole that incorporates a full-length TPU reinforcement and a TPU heel welt for securely attaching crampons. A high-quality suede and Cordura upper together with a Gore-Tex lining keeps feet dry and comfortable, while click-clamp eyelets offer 2 zone lacing to guarantee a secure fit. An advanced neoprene cuff provides optimum comfort around the ankle. For guaranteed quality and performance, the boots are designed and manufactured at Hanwag’s factory in Bavaria, located at the foot of the German Alps. More info: www. hanwag.com
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FJÄLLRÄVEN ABISKO SHAPE 2 £625
A gift that comes with the promise of many future adventures, the Fjällräven Abisko Shape 2 is part of the brand’s award-winning new tent collection. Suitable for four-season use, the tent’s stable tunnel design features Fjällräven’s innovative Nylon TripleRip flysheet which is treated on each side with four layers of silicone for outstanding performance. The flysheet’s hybrid construction uses a higher-denier fabric in high-wear areas to offer outstanding strength while keeping weight low. Pitching is easy thanks to colour-coded, DAC Featherlite Aluminium poles and the Abisko Shape 2 is also designed with wider pole sleeves to allowthe use of a second set of poles in rough conditions, while a spacious porch and multiple internal gear storage options enhance the tent’s practicality. More info: www.fjallraven.co.uk
KLEAN KANTEEN FROM £22.95 The bottle that launched Klean Kanteen over a decade ago is now available in insulated. We’ve combined our original, iconic, Classic bottle with highperformance, double-wall vacuum insulation (which by the way, keeps contents hot up to 30 hours and iced up to 100 hours!) to create our most versatile bottle ever. It also features the leakproof Loop Cap for safe transport, which can be clipped to your backpack or stowed in your bag. Available in 355ml, 592ml, 946ml and 1900ml sizes, and an array of colours, there is a Klean Kanteen for every style and activity. More info: www. kleankanteen.com or call 01539 721032 for stockists.
BreakingTrail BRIDGEDALE TREKKER £15.99 (TWINPACK)
HAGLÖFS ESSENS MIMIC £160 (JACKET) £180 (HOOD)
ARC’TERYX SATORO BASELAYERS £40-£100
SATMAP ACTIVE 12 £400
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Beat the cold with Essens Mimic. This jacket offers all the benefits of a down jacket, only it’s more versatile and easier to care for. Made using the brand’s exclusive new high-loft QuadFusion Mimic, which emulates actual goose down but absorbs virtually no moisture. This innovative new material also enables Haglöfs to use less stitching in the jacket’s construction, minimising the compressed spaces where the cold might sneak in. Therefore, the jacket is suitable for fighting blizzards in the mountains as well as walking the dog on a rainy day. What’s more, the Mimic is free of any fluorocarbons. It is a product that truly encapsulates the Haglöfs mission to help you beat the elements.” More info: www. haglofs.com
The multi awarding-winning Satmap Active 12 sports mapping GPS makes the ideal Christmas gift for the serious mountain trekker! Sporting a large hi-res screen, crystal clear mapping, barometer and Bluetooth, makes this the easy-to-use GPS of choice for many of the UK Mountain Rescue teams and outdoor folk. Now offered with a wide range of optional, detailed topographic mapping, especially Ordnance Survey 1:25k Explorer and international Satmap Adventure Maps. Key features include: High-Res Screen, Peer-to-Peer data share, Bluetooth 4.0, Barometric Altimeter, HighRes Mapping, Rechargeable battery, Toggleable Mapping and Heart Rate Monitor support. Satmap have the most extensive mapping catalogue available and can provide detailed topographic maps for anywhere in the world through the Adventure map series, and have a range of accessories available to allow for use in adverse weather and for cycling. 30% discount on most maps and accessories with promo code TREK-30-OFF. More info: www.satmap. com
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BreakingTrail LOWE ALPINE CHOLATSE 35 £100
Moving fast and light while retaining some of the creature comforts of traditional trekking is the holy grail for the modern multi-day hiker. Moving hut-to-hut through the Alps, or bedding down in Scottish bothies, this 35L capacity pack will squeeze in everything you need, for a couple of days of well-earned escapism. And when the terrain becomes a bit more challenging, or you’re lucky enough to be in warmer climates, then give thanks to the air mesh ventilated back panel, keeping your back cool even if your journey heats up. While compact in design, this pack is generous in access options, it also has a host of technical features including hidden, external lash points for attaching a sleeping mat, an integral rain cover in case the weather gets wild, and walking pole and ice axe holders for when the going gets tough. More info: www. lowealpine.com
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DECEMBER 2016
JÖTTNAR FENRIR DOWN JACKET £200
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Summit READERS’ PHOTOS
SUMMIT
Send your mountain photos and stories to: summit@trekandmountain.com
Gokyo Ri, Nepal
In 2007, I embarked on a trek to the Himalayas. I had a basic 3 megapixel camera and wanted something special to bring back. Towards the end of the trip we reached the Gokyo Lakes and then the summit of Gokyo Ri later the next day. If you were to take only one picture on this trek, it
Brecon Beacons
Seeing the peaks of the Brecon Beacons with a dusting of snow, I just knew I needed to be there for sunrise the next morning. After a 5am alarm and a headtorch-lit walk, I reached the summit at 20
DECEMBER 2016
would have to be a shot of this panorama from the summit above the lakes. Your whole trip would be worth it for this picture alone! It’s made up of five images that were all pin sharp. I can’t remember it being easy to get five sharp images on the bounce, and the fact that they stitched together freakishly well on basic camera software
back in 2007 just feels lucky. I was approached by Getty images for this image and I now have over a thousand mountain images with Getty, but this is my best selling and my oldest picture. It also takes pride of place on my living room wall, serving as a reminder of a great day! Andrew Clayborough
about 6.40am. The sky was turning from black to deep blue. I took position on the side of Craig Gwaun Taf to get the full central beacons range in view for sunrise and waited and watched as the sky began to put on its dawn display. As the sun
crested the horizon the warm rays lit up Pen y Fan, Corn Du and the rest of the range beautifully. This photo is a stitch of six shots showing the amazing view from my morning seat. Adam Tatton-Reid
Carn Mor Dearg
In January, alone on the summit of Carn Mor Dearg in the pale morning light, I gazed in wonder at the magnificent north face of Ben
Nevis where I had spent the last days climbing my first winter routes up to Grade III, and the graceful curve of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, with the fresh snowfall. Ricky Munday
Carn Mor Dearg
Ben Wyvis, Easter Ross
This picture was taken in January, alone on the summit of Carn Mor Dearg in the pale morning light, where I gazed in wonder at the magnificent north face of Ben Nevis where I had spent the last days climbing my first winter routes up to grade III, and the graceful curve of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, with the fresh snowfall, which made it a magical scene. Ricky Munday
After recent snow and low temperatures, Cluanie the Jack Russell was keen to get back up Ben Wyvis near our home in Easter Ross. Cluanie has 82 Munros now but Wyvis, being our local hill, has been done by us a number of times and is a fantastic climb. Sometimes it’s not all about the climb, though, and a wee bit of fun with the camera can also be had along the way. Micky Jones and Cluanie
WIN! A YEAR’S SUBSCRIPTION TO T&M! The picture and story we judge to be the best in next month’s Summit will receive a one-year subscription to Trek & Mountain. Get your entries in now! Either upload them at Facebook.com/summitcompetition or email them to us at summit@ trekandmountain.com
Y Lliwedd, Snowdonia
My favourite way up Snowdon is via y Lliwedd, and on the day this photo was taken me and seven of my friends took this route and were rewarded with beautiful weather and a
very quiet route until the top (where of course the crowds suddenly appear). We came back down the Pyg Track to finish off a brilliant day. Mikey Roberts DECEMBER 2016
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Great British Days Out
GREAT BRITISH DAYS OUT
Golden Oldie & Western Rib, Aonach Mor This month Alun Richardson describes two great winter routes on the west face of Aonach Mor in the Nevis range WORDS & PICTURES ALUN RICHARDSON
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Enjoying the superb ice conditions on the Spare Rib Gully start
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ALUN RICHARDSON A British Mountain Guide, photographer and writer, Alun has led numerous expeditions around the world.
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Great British Days Out Aonach Mor west face as seen from the east ridge of Carn Mor Dearg
The ice pitches of Spare Rib Gully
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S
carred by mechanical ski lifts and ski fences, the approach to this Great British Day Out may provide an ethical dilemma for some hardy souls. The presence of the gondola and the ski tows is definitely not pretty, but it does allow you to ascend quickly and you soon get away from the hustle and bustle of skiers into the solitude of a wild valley with a remote feel. Aonach Mòr and Aonach Beag are the two summits of a long, flattish north-south ridge, but on both sides, the Ice Age has carved away parts of the mountain to create huge cliffs and dramatic, lonely valleys or corries. The two mountain routes described here lie directly below the summit of Aonach Mor and actually end up right next to the summit cairn. The name Aonach Mòr (1,221m) implies that the mountain is bigger than its close neighbour to the south, Aonach Beag – ‘small ridge’ – to which it is linked by a high mountain pass or ‘bealach’. However, the names refer to the bulk of the mountains when seen from the valley, rather than their heights above sea level. The summit of Aonach Mòr is in fact 19m lower than the summit of Aonach Beag (1,350m). The cliffs that make up the west face of Aonach Mòr are simply a brilliant place to visit for those searching for lower grade winter mountaineering projects. Despite its proximity to the Nevis ski area, the excellent granite ridges have an adventurous atmosphere and provide mountaineering challenges that are not too technical. They come into condition quickly throughout the winter and recover swiftly after a thaw. I have climbed two fantastic routes here on a number of occasions and in conditions that vary from deep snow to rocky, iced-up turf. They are the aptly-named, grade 2 ridge Golden Oldie and the equally brilliant, but slightly harder, grade 2/3 Western Rib. If Spare Rib Gully is in condition, I would recommend it as a good start to the latter because it has a few moderately steep ice pitches. For Golden Oldie you will only need one ice axe, but for Western Rib you may feel more comfortable with two tools. Two are definitely needed for the steeper ice in Spare Rib Gully. Golden Oldie was first climbed in 1979 by one of the icons of Scottish winter mountaineering, Alan Kimber, and Western Rib by another Scottish mountaineering legend, Simon Richardson in 1988.
Contrary to popular belief, ice climbing is all about style and efficiency, not brute force and ignorance
THE APPROACH
The approach to the two routes is hidden away amongst the wild and desolate scenery of the Allt Daim valley. There are a number of options for getting to the valley. We’d intended to get the the 8am Nevis range climbers’ gondola, but missed it and had to wait until the next one at 9am. If the gondola is unable to operate due to high winds or for those who prefer to walk, the same point can be reached in 90 minutes by following a path DECEMBER 2016
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Great British Days Out Jan Webb enjoying the beautiful ice as she approaches the belay
under the gondola line. The gondola ride certainly makes these long (500m) routes a reasonable proposition for mere mortals, especially when daylight is short in winter. The gondola reaches a restaurant at 650m, from here traverse west heading for Meall Beag. After 1km, or about 15 minutes, descend into the Allt Daim valley and as soon as you feel comfortable start contouring the slopes on the true left side of the river. This can sometimes be time consuming when the snow is deep and soft because it is lying over small boulders and tussocks of grass. Both routes can be comfortably climbed by a party of three with the seconds roping up a few arm-lengths apart, but on a beautifully calm yet overcast day this year I climbed Western Rib via the Spare Rib Gully start with my partner Jan Webb. The conditions couldn’t have been better, but after missing the gondola we had a bit of a rush to get to the last one back down.
PRIOR PREPARATION
We had started our preparation days before, checked climbing blogs for conditions, watched the weather and avalanche forecasts, put a wind arrow on the map and coloured in the avalanche prone slopes to make sure we didn’t mindlessly wander into danger areas, especially on the descent. I also recorded the important compass bearings (usually on the map), packed our rucksacks the night before and then poured the contents back onto the floor for checking again in the morning. Finally we set the alarm for early o’clock. After catching the later gondola we were soon dropping away from the early morning skiers into the Daim valley and were rewarded with a walk that winds its way up a beautifully U-shaped valley. The start of the climbs can be hard to locate when the visibility is poor because the whole west face doesn’t have any obvious big features to help identify them. The routes are in a slightly recessed bay and are not visible until just past the prominent east ridge dropping from the summit of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. After about one and a half hours of walking you may see a number of rocky ridges descending from the summit but they are not obvious until you are almost below them. Pinnacle Ridge is the furthest left ridge and has a small gendarme near the top. Golden Oldie takes the next most defined ridge to the right and Western Rib takes the second buttress, which appears to be a subsidiary buttress joining the third, Daim Buttress, although in reality it is separated by a deep gully. It is also possible to join Western Rib by a variation to the left. On the slopes directly below the buttress (grid ref NN 1877 7301) we put harnesses, helmets and crampons on then soloed up easy broken and slabby ground to reach the start of the gully. The ice is never very steep, but with the occasional bulge to add some spice and with slightly thawing ice it was
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Great British Days Out in super condition. Placing the ice axes was effortless and we frontpointed for two long pitches until it was possible to traverse back left onto the ridge. We belayed from ice screws until we got onto the ridge then I put them away in my rucksack and relied on nuts and slings. The climbing on the ridge proper is never very hard, but it is narrow and exposed with pinnacles and gendarmes. We pitched some of it, moved together on other parts and soloed at the top, but care should be taken to always place protection for the second as a slip would be very serious in some places. Slings on flakes constituted most of the runners and I belayed directly to the slings or around boulders on much of the route. The climbing became easier the higher we got and for the last 100m or so we took the rope off and soloed to the summit cairn. From Western Ridge we could see two climbers moving quickly up the narrow pinnacled ridge of Golden Oldie, which is very similar in character, but just a tad easier and to my mind possibly a little better.
Jan on the final ridge
WEATHER WATCHING
The top of Aonach Mor was not very far away and for a moment we thought about continuing to Aonoch Beag, but a look at our watches made the decision for us! The clouds were coming and going on and the light was disappearing fast so we set our compass bearings and followed the trail of footsteps along the broad and flattish ridge crest. We still checked every now and again that we were heading in the correct direction because it would be all to easy to follow some climbers footprints off the cliff edge. The clouds lifted occasionally giving us glimpses of the stunning views. Wherever you are on Aonach Mor or Aonach Beag your eyes are sucked irresistibly to the west. The reddish ridge leading up to Carn Mor Dearg sweeps round to the curved knife-edge ridge of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete. Then onto the best part of the view, especially from Aonach Beag, the dramatic north face of Ben Nevis with its 600m cliffs falling into Coire Leis. The Ben is awesome, but it does take the eyes away from the only slightly more distant and beautiful views south to the Mamores or east to the Grey Corries. We reached the ski runs and rushed down the pistes (avoiding actually walking on the pistes) to catch the gondola and were relieved when we were finally sitting in one. The ski area provides great pleasure for many people, but I know a few no-skiers that think it is wrong to place the ski lifts there. It is certainly an ethical dilemma, but for me the gondola is a convenient and quick way to gain access to an absolutely stunning area that I probably wouldn’t visit as often if it wasn’t there. Go and climb both routes and decide which is best – the Golden Oldie or the Western Rib. For me they are equally superb, but maybe the positions on Golden Oldie just win. 28
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Aonach Mor: Golden Oldie and Western Rib
Essential info to know before you go
access. Glen Nevis Youth Hostel - Drying room, self-catering facilities, private rooms available, continental breakfast included in price, open until 2am. Tourist info Fort William (0845 22 55 121); Spean Bridge (0845 22 55 121); Ballachulish (08452 255 121)
1 GOLDEN OLDIE (GRADE 2( 2 VARIATION START TO WESTERN RIB (GRADE 2/3) 3 WESTERN RIB (GRADE 2/3) 4 SPARE RIB GULLY (GRADE 2/3)
Classic winter routes on the west face of Aonach Mor
PARKING Park at the ski centre 7 miles north of Fort William (www.nevisrange. co.uk). The climbers’ gondola departs at 8am then continuously after 9am. The gondola can close at any time due to high winds, so do check it is running by calling 01397 705825/6. CONDITIONS Both ridges are climbable in all winter conditions, but care should be taken in very strong winds. Deep snow makes them more challenging, but also adds to the experience. The problem with a lot of snow is that the walk-in can be arduous and time consuming, unless someone has tracked it. Spare Rib Gully requires prolonged cold to build the ice, but if it isn’t in nick then just climb Western Rib or the variation to the left. EXPERIENCE AND FITNESS On top of the usual skills of winter
walking such as navigation and avalanche assessment you will need experience of winter climbing on steep terrain with crampons. Golden Oldie and Western Rib are frequently soloed, but although they are not very technical the ability to place runners and create belays is essential. The ability to move together at times is also useful. WHAT TO PACK 50L rucksack, winter boots, warm trousers, three layers, small duvet jacket or extra fleece, balaclava or fleece hat, waterproof jacket and trousers, ski goggles, warm gloves, lightweight survival shelter, food and drink. Crampons, one ice axe for Golden Oldie and two for Western Rib, small rack of wires and hexes, 3 to 5 ice screws, lots of single and double slings, a few extenders and a single 50 or 60m climbing rope.
WHERE TO STAY There is a variety of accommodation in and around Fort William, from campsites to quality hotels. The following bunkhouses/hostels offer excellent facilities at great value. Ben Nevis Bunkhouse - Achintee Road - Drying room, self-catering facilities, private rooms available, optional meals. Farr Cottage Activity Centre - Corpach - Self-catering facilities, private rooms available, optional meals, minibus and laundry services. Bank Street Lodge - Fort William town centre - Drying room, self-catering facilities, private rooms available, optional meals. Inchree chalets and bunkhouse - Onich - Drying room, self-catering facilities, private rooms available, pub, restaurant Fort William Backpackers - Fort William - Drying room, self-catering facilities, private rooms available, optional breakfast and internet
GETTING THERE By plane: Fly to Edinburgh, Glasgow, or Inverness, from where you can rent a car. Fort William is a 3-hour drive from Edinburgh, 2.5-hour from Glasgow or 1.5-hour from Inverness. By train: Fort William also lies on the West Highland line from Glasgow, one of the most picturesque mainline railway lines in the UK. By bus: Numerous bus services are also available from Glasgow, Inverness and Edinburgh, whilst those who live south of the Scottish border can even take a sleeper bus from London. There is a bus service from Fort William to the Nevis Range Ski centre www.travelinescotland.com/ welcome.do GUIDEBOOKS AND MAPS OS Explorer 392 (1:25,000), OS Explorer 399 (1:25,000) , Harvey/BMC Ben Nevis (1:40,000), OS Landranger 41 (1:50,000), ‘Scotland’s Mountain Ridges’ by Dan Bailey (Cicerone), ‘Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe’ by Mike Pescod (Cicerone) USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS AND ADDRESSES www.sais.gov.uk www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/ weather/mountain-forecast www.mwis.org.uk/ Flora and fauna In the winter flora and fauna are not so visible, but you may see ravens, snow bunting and even a mountain hare.
DECEMBER 2016
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rek & Mountain is the leading magazine for trekkers and mountaineers, with a unique mix of inspiring destination reports, technical advice and gear reviews in every issue. Becoming a subscriber ensures you don’t ever miss an issue, and also means that you get the best possible deal on the magazine! During December, if you subscribe to Trek & Mountain for 12 issues you will receive a superb Petzl Tikkina headtorch worth £20, absolutely free! Furthermore, if you sign up by Direct Debit we will also give you a 20% discount on the normal price of the magazine – a saving of over £10! But more about your free gift... the Petzl Tikkina is ideal as a general-use headtorch for walking, scrambling and climbing around
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the UK, or as a back-up torch on a trek or expedition. It weighs just 85g and is rated to IPX4 weather resistance. Compact and easy to use, it has one button to turn the torch and off and switch through its modes, which include one mode to favour brightness, and one mode to favour burn time. The Tikkina takes 3 AAA batteries and can also use rechargeable Ni-MH batteries.
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COVER FEATURE
COVER FEATURE
WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAINS
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Most Beautiful Mountains
Cerro Torre, Ama Dablam, the Matterhorn... which is the fairest peak of them all? We ask 10 noted mountaineers, writers and photographers what their choice of ‘world’s most beautiful mountain’ is and why… WORDS: DAN ASPEL PICTURES: ALAN HINKES, CHRIS KEMPSTER, ALISTAIR LEE, AMANDA TRAVIS, SHUTTERSTOCK
Small but perfectly formed – Kirkjufell (463m) in West Iceland
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I
f there’s a universal truth about mountains, it’s in the effect they have on people. By any reckoning it’s a kind of insanity, all-consuming and completely devoid of logic. And I can say this comfortably, because the chances are that if you’re reading this you exhibit it too. Ever saved up all year to go and visit the Alps or the Atlas or the Dolomites? Tick. Ever found yourself cold, stiff and already exhausted before dawn on a big peak in a very foreign country? Tick. Ever found yourself googling ‘Karakoram’ or ‘Kinabalu’ or ‘Banff’ when you really should have finished whatever you’re working on 30 minutes ago? You don’t have to answer that one (but I’m guessing ‘tick’). We’re far from alone, of course, and we’ve a wealth of notable predecessors and peers to call upon for comfort. For ease, let’s just stick with writers. Between us our bookshelves and e-readers are filled with
PICTURE: AMANDA TRAVIS
Les Drus form a perfect ‘pointy’ mountain
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great and thoughtful works from the poetic classicism of Eric Shipton, Bill Tilman, Wilfred Noyce and George Mallory, to the wry stoicism of Edmund Hillary, the pantheistic ecstasies of W H Murray, the unpretentious liveliness of Heinrich Harrer and Joe Simpson, the scholarly dedication of Robert Macfarlane and the eager intimacy of Andy Kirkpatrick and Mike Cawthorne. All of these are climbers and writers who have lived lives devoted to what we might call the beauty of the mountains. So enveloping, in fact, has the effect been that mountains killed a few of them, bankrupted most and certainly controlled the thoughts and behaviours of all throughout the majority of their lives. There are hundreds of sage quotations we could pull out of their works to examine why and how giant stacks of rock and ice exert such domination. Specific to my personal tastes I’m going to go with the following
Most Beautiful Mountains
PICTURE: CHRIS KEMPSTER
Ama Dablam, many people’s choice of ‘the most beautiful’
The unmistakable sight of the Matterhorn
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Most Beautiful Mountains “Despite the lovingly prepared and magazine-friendly Top 10 that you’re about to read, this is and will always remain an impossible and unanswerable question.” two. The first is from legendary French mountaineer and guide Lionel Terray, who said that “the conquest of a great peak brings moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach” (a typically dour take from a man whose autobiography was titled ‘Conquistadors of the Useless’). The second hints more at the sublime, and comes from the incomparably humble and inspiring alpinist Gaston Rébuffat: “The ascent of any route begins, in dreams at least, the autumn before. Our minds ring, involuntarily, with the alluring names of mountains, aiguilles, faces and ridges. Is it the name itself which is so tempting, or the picture we have of the mountain itself, or does the appeal come from our feeling of the actual process of climbing? All of us have our reasons, innumerable, personal and complex”. And this was reflected in the research for this article. When myself and the rest of the
PICTURE: ALAN HINKES
The savage beauty of K2
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Trek & Mountain team approached climbers and writers for their thoughts on the world’s most beautiful mountain, the responses were as varied and diverse as their individual lifetimes of adventure themselves. “There are beautiful mountains, there are impressive mountains, there are friendly mountains, there are challenging mountains and there are repulsive mountains. There are some mountains that you feel you must climb, and there are some that there is no way you want to go too close to, and some you want only to gaze upon”, said one respondee. “If we limit it to straight aesthetics and the epitome of mountain form, that limits us to ‘best angle’ because no mountain looks its best from every direction,” suggested another, adding that “snow cover is necessary – after all, this is how a child draws a mountain”. The general response could be summed up in this simple phrasing of one contributor: “Crikey! Where to begin?” and those that
didn’t make the final list include Mount Assiniboine, Laila Peak, Kirkjufell, Jirishaka, Stetind, the Matterhorn, Aiguille Dibona, Siniolchu, Mount Aspiring, “dozens” in south-west China, the Eiger, Thamserku, Gyachung Kang, Jannu, Manaslu, Larkya Peak, Mount Cook, Piz Palü, Finsteraarhorn, Jungfrau, Suilven, La Meije, Pic du Midi d’Ossau, the Vignemale, Els Encantats… you get the idea. Essentially, despite the lovingly prepared and magazine-friendly Top 10 that you’re about to read, this is and will always remain an impossible and unanswerable question. Mountains speak to us all, and command us to do absurd and dangerous and sometimes life-affirming things. How each one communicates this to each of us is personal and individual and, in some ways, unknowable. But our response to their calls is plain. To love mountains is to love beauty and freedom and nature. Long may we celebrate all three.
Most Beautiful Mountains Ama Dablam – the ‘mother’s necklace’
1. Ama Dablam, Nepal A sight familiar, but never less than jawdropping, to Everest Base Camp trekkers, Ama Dablam sits in the heart of Nepal’s Khumbu region. Not only is it spectacularly situated (it rises above the famously panoramic Thyangboche Monastery, which boasts views of the entire Everest region), but its form itself is one of the most naturally pleasing in the Himalayas. We’ll let the photos in this article and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa’s words (below)
speak to that point and move on to the technicality of the climb. Ama Dablam’s main ascent route, known as the south-west ridge, is often described as being equivalent to a Severe/Very Severe, alpine Dificile or Scottish Grade IV, and will require the full gamut of mixed climbing abilities to get to the top of. This means being a competent climber with high altitude experience is a very minimum before even guided expeditions will have you along. The
route typically necessitates three camps on the way, as well as solid acclimatisation beforehand. The fact that, despite this, it is one of the most popular expedition peaks in the whole range speaks highly of its charms and appeal as a climbing experience. It might be ‘only’ 6,812m in height, but its level of technicality puts it into the same challenging realm as the 8,000ers – albeit in a shorter and arguably more aesthetically pleasing package.
MY MOUNTAIN...
PASANG LHAMU SHERPA
First Nepalese woman to climb Everest and National Geographic Adventurer of the Year 2016 www.pasanglhamusherpa.com “Ama Dablam means ‘mother’s necklace’ and to many of us in Nepal the shape of the mountain looks like a mother cradling her child. That’s one of the reasons why, as a Nepalese woman it has always been a very special place for me. And this
is partly why in 2012 I chose to join the first all–female team to reach the summit. It’s an interesting peak for its mixed climbing, and for the local religious traditions; you must ask the Gods permission to step onto the mountain, and for them to look over you as you climb. The base camp is, I think, the most beautiful in the world – and you don’t have to get to the summit to appreciate what a spectacular place this is. The view from Camp 1 down the valley might be as good as it gets.” DECEMBER 2016
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The heartbreakingly beautiful Alpamayo
2. Alpamayo, Peru Famed for its surreally beautiful south-west face and elegantly sharpened pyramidal form, the 5,947m summit of Alpamayo is buried deep in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes. So deep, in fact, that the trek to its base camp takes two to three days. But, by technical climbing standards at least, that doesn’t deter the crowds, and it’s not unusual for the number of teams waiting at the mountain’s foot for the right weather window to reach double figures during the
peak summer season. The most common routes to the summit, including the French Direct and the Ferrari (named for the Italian team that first set it in 1975), mostly tackle 45-degree ice and snow slopes, although they do steepen beyond this in places. It’s recommended that you be climbing AD-graded alpine routes and/or Scottish Grade III winter gullies and buttresses to consider your own attempt, whether guided or no. Ultimately a mere
glance is enough to see why it attracts so much attention, and why it has enjoyed a reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful mountains since it began attracting serious climbing interest in the 1950s. Alpamayo was chosen by a panel of mountaineering experts as the ‘most beautiful mountain in the world’ in 1966 in the German magazine ‘Alpinismus’, and 50 years later it would be hard to argue that this perfect peak isn’t a contender for that title.
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KEV REYNOLDS
Photojournalist, lecturer and author of over 50 guidebooks www.kevreynolds.co.uk “I trekked to Alpamayo in 2000 with a small group and a team of Quechua muleteers. As we drew close and crossed passes from which she should have been visible, she hid herself among clouds. Then we came down to a valley whose stream was born among her glaciers. We knew she was not far off, and pitched our 38
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tents beside that stream. It rained, and when the rain stopped towards nightfall and the temperature dropped, I emerged from my tent cocooned in down to discover a fox with a blue/grey coat snuffling among the rocks. Then I turned and looked upvalley and my throat went dry. For there was Alpayamo at last. A towering pyramid, sharp as a pencil, touched by the setting sun. No clouds intruded. Dressed only in ice and snow she was all I’d dreamed her to be; pure, sublime and exquisitely beautiful. The world’s most beautiful mountain? Yeah – I’ll go for that!”
Most Beautiful Mountains Controversy surrounded early climbs on Cerro Torre
3. Cerro Torre, Patagonia Famously dubbed a “scream of stone” in the 1991 Werner Herzog movie of the same name, there’s no mistaking the astonishing 3,128m needle of Cerro Torre. A perhaps peerless mixed climbing peak, it sits in southern Patagonia on the border between Argentina and Chile, and is famously lashed by enough rain, ice and wind to keep it not only unapproachable but mostly invisible for days, and even weeks, at a time. Its summit is typically crowned by an overhanging
mushroom of rimed ice, breaking through this being a necessity to reach the top and understandably proving a fairly big ask after at least a couple of days and at most a week or more or demanding climbing on sheer ridge and rock face. It’s a controversial mountain, too – originally due to the actions of Italian climber Cesari Maestri, who in 1959 claimed to have summited the peak with Toni Egger despite evidence to the contrary (the first undisputed climb wasn’t
until 1974) and in 1970 he infamously used a gas-powered compressor drill to decorate the south-east side of the mountain with over 400 bolts and thousands of metres of fixed rope. Much of this metalwork on the so-called ‘Compressor Route’ has since been chopped off by locals and climbing purists, and 21st century ascents continue to explore the possibilities of aid-free ascents on a mountain which is, at points, utterly free of climbable features.
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MICK FOWLER,
Prolific first ascensionist, famous for mixing his impressive expedition achievements with a full-time career in the UK tax office www.berghaus.com/athletes-mickfowler.html “Out of so many contenders I think I will have to vote for Cerro Torre in Patagonia. As to why... well, it just looks so spectacular and impossible to climb
from every direction. And the huge rime formations that decorate the summit add that final ‘wow’ factor. I would love to climb it one day.”
“It looks so spectacular and impossible to climb from every direction...” DECEMBER 2016
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PICTURE: ALAN HINKES
Most Beautiful Mountains
K2 as viewed from the Godwin-Austen Glacier
4. K2, Pakistan Superlatives stick to K2 like glacial ice. Situated in the isolated heart of Pakistan’s Karakoram range, it’s a monstrous pyramid of rock and ice, imposingly steep from every side and subject to the worst weather in the region. As you’d expect from its fearsome appearance, and the fact that the famously ‘savage mountain’ is the world’s second highest peak (at 8,611m, only 237m shy of Everest), it’s also one of the deadliest climbs there is. In fact, statistically speaking, it’s the
second most dangerous after avalancheridden Annapurna, and more than 80 climbers have lost their lives attempting to reach its summit since it was first surveyed by European explorers in 1856. That equates to one person losing their life for every four climbers that reach the top. The reasons for this are straightforward: extreme altitude, consistently steep terrain and the considerable objective dangers of avalanche and rock fall. So where does the beauty come in? Well, it
rises a sublime 3,000m+ in every direction from its surrounding glaciers, whilst climbing the mountain via the Abruzzi Spur involves tremendous exposure, dizzying views of this wild and vertiginous region, and the necessity of passing through an 8,200m high couloir known as ‘the bottleneck’ beneath overhanging ice seracs. Few climbs are guaranteed to induce more adrenaline or exhaustion, or require you to roll the dice more boldly in the highest of high-stakes games.
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ALAN HINKES,
The first, and so-far only, Briton to have summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000m mountains www.alanhinkes.info “K2 is beautiful and stark and deadly and dangerous. It really is a massive stand-alone peak dominating the head of the Godwin-Austen Glacier in Pakistan as well as the North K2 Glacier in China. If you want to see how big an impression it’s 40
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made on me over the years, see the front cover and photos in my book. ‘8000 metres: Climbing The World’s Highest Mountains’. It took me three attempts to get to the top of it – and I tried from both the south (Pakistani) side and the north (Chinese) side. It was worth every moment. It truly is an awesome and beautiful mountain”.
“K2 is beautiful and stark and deadly and dangerous.”
EVOLUTION OF A STORM FORTRESS The Alpha SV Jacket. A pinnacle design made better: lighter, stronger. Obsessive attention to detail propels this revolutionary mountain icon.
The distinctive ‘fishtail’ summit of Machapuchare
5. Machapuchare, Nepal Uniquely in this list, Machapuchare has never officially been summitted. That’s because this 6,993m mountain is believed locally to be the domain of the Hindu god Shiva, and attempts on the peak are consequently forbidden out of respect for religious sentiment. That doesn’t stop it being one of the highlights of Nepal’s Annapurna region, however. Sitting just 25km north of the nation’s second city of Pokhara, Machapuchare rises
from the end of a long ridgeline, which extends southwards from the eastern end of the Annapurna Sanctuary. It therefore sits surrounded by relatively low-slung foothills, and its grand, Matterhorn-like ridges rise dramatically out of a landscape of greens and yellows into its distinctive twin-tipped peak. This latter feature gave it its rather playful name, which translates as “fishtail” in English. Annapurna being one of the most popular trekking destinations in
the country, plenty of visitors are treated to their own experience of Machapuchare en route to the higher mountains, which has helped spur its enduring fame. Besides rumours of an illegal ascent of the peak in the 1980s by now deceased Kiwi climber Bill Denz, the only known attempt came in 1957 when a British team marshalled by Col. Jimmy Roberts (see below) stopped deliberately within 150m of the summit.
MY MOUNTAIN...
JOHN CLEARE,
Photographer, mountaineer, filmmaker and co-author of the 1966 classic ‘Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia’ www.mountaincamera.com “I first saw Machapuchare in the late monsoon of 1974. I was sharing a room with Col. Jimmy Roberts at Fishtail Lodge on an island in Phewa Tal lake. All but isolated from the main massif of the Annapurna Hemel, Machapuchare is visible from afar, but from 42
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east and west it becomes double-headed and thus more savage. On that trip visibility had been dreadful but as dawn arrived the cloud rolled back for just a few minutes and there was Machapuchare. The symmetry is faultless – a perfectly balanced arrowhead. The picture I took then is one of my most treasured images. Not surprisingly, it’s also sacred to the Gurung folk who live in central Nepal, and therefore a forbidden peak and officially virgin. Long may it remain so, for to know that its summit had been trodden would be to shatter the illusion.”
PICTURE: RHYS JONES
Most Beautiful Mountains
Make it to about 8,400m on Everest and you get this view...
6. Lhotse, Nepal Being tied to the highest mountain on earth, Lhotse is often quite literally overlooked. But that’s unfair treatment of the 8,516m peak joined to the roof of the world by the crossroads of the notoriously raw and windy South Col (“left for Everest, right for Lhotse”, in the words of British climber Alan Hinkes). Lhotse is in itself earth’s fourth highest summit, and while more than 5,500 people have reached the tip of its famous neighbour, just 460-or-so have stood atop this
every-so-slightly shorter peak. It’s dramatically built, with its sheer South Face offering every angle and contour of terrain that you could hope to admire, and an icy couloir on its West Face that offers the most direct way to its summit. That climb is far from easy, of course, and involves 500m of narrow and steep (50-60 degree) gully before finally negotiating a sharp ridgeline which demands focused scrambling to reach the top. Not an easy
prospect when you’re above 8,000m. Aside from the trekkers that pass to Lhotse’s south whilst travelling the Khumbu, those with the best views of the mountain’s form tend to be Everest summiteers – what a shame they’re typically in no condition to take it in. Those that do linger to enjoy the view will look across Lhotse and its sub-peaks, Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Sar and on to the mighty Makalu in the distance. One of the perks of climbing the world’s highest peak...
MY MOUNTAIN...
SANDY ALLAN
Mountain Guide, author and Piolets d’Or winner with Rick Allen for the first ascent of the Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat www.teamascent.co.uk “Lhotse and Lhotse Middle from Everest with Makalu behind... depending on our perception, it’s either heaven or hell! The view from Mount Everest overlooks Lhotse, Nuptse and Lhotse Shar and leads the eye over many trekking peaks and
then, as the backdrop, the gigantic Makalu. An outstanding view which inspires me to think that while I am on one of the busiest and most climbed mountains in the world, there are still so many much less-trodden places and mountain faces, blanks on the map which are still waiting to be explored.”
“There are still so many less-trodden places...” DECEMBER 2016
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PICTURE: ALISTAIR LEE
Leo and his team hotfooting-it towards Ulvetanna
7. Ulvetanna, Antarctica With a name that translates from Norwegian to English as ‘Wolf’s Tooth’, you’d be expecting something quite primal from this peak. And you wouldn’t be disappointed. It rises from the barren ice sheet of Antarctica’s Queen Maud Land, part of the Drygalski Mountains and more specifically an element of the peak known as Fenriskjeften – which translates as ‘Fenrir’s Jaw’, Fenrir being a monstrous wolf from Norse mythology ultimately destined to kill
Odin during the apocalyptic end-game known as Ragnarök. So, Roseberry Topping this is not. What’s particularly pleasing is that it really, really does look like a tooth – with a smooth, curving base which sharpens into a rugged and lightly serrated tip. Given its extreme isolation in the storm-swept wilds of the coldest – and only ever fleetingly inhabited – continent, it’s no surprise that its first ascent (by Robert Caspersen, Sjur Nesheim and Ivar Tollefsen)
only came in 1994, via the peak’s north-west face. Since then other teams have put up new routes across the peak (including British stalwarts Leo Houlding and Andy Kirkpatrick), marking this 2,930m summit as one of the most compelling and highly sought-after goals for extreme climbing teams worldwide. If you still don’t get it, have a gander at Alistair Lee’s brilliant film ‘The Last Great Climb’ and you will understand what all the fuss is about.
MY MOUNTAIN...
LEO HOULDING
Climber, adventurer and one of Britain’s top mountaineering talents www.leohoulding.com “Simple answer: Ulvetanna. Just look at it! The shape, the scene, the scale, the aesthetic, the Antarctic, the ultra-remoteness, it’s got it all. To get a little more profound, the most beautiful mountain surely has to be the one that you obsess over the most? That usually tends to be the 44
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next one you plan to climb, and that obviously changes as/if each summit is reached.”
“The shape, the scene, the scale, the aesthetic, the Antarctic, the ultraremoteness, it’s got it all.”
Most Beautiful Mountains ‘The Dru’ has two summits: the Petit Dru (front) and the Grand Dru (behind)
8. Aiguille du Dru, France Even for an alpine summit, the Dru is a peak rich in climbing lore. First climbed in 1878 (and described by English ascendee Clinton Thomas Dent as “as pretty a place for an accident as can well be imagined”, it’s here that Walter Bonatti made a groundbreaking 1955 solo ascent of the Pillar which would go on to bear his name… and which 28 years later would strand a young Joe Simpson when the part of it he and his climbing partner had requisitioned as a bivvy ledge
collapsed into the void. That was just a hint of things to come, however, and in the summer of 2005 the entire bulk of the Bonatti Pillar would be washed away by rockfall, taking with it the physical evidence of a great part of the history of alpinism with it. That’s not to say that Les Drus (as its twin peaks are known) haven’t retained their ability to lure in great mountaineers and provide great climbing challenges (see Andy’s words below), and its supreme
needle-like 3,754m summit is not just aesthetically heart-racing, but technically fascinating too. Even to reach the lower summit of the Petit Dru you’re looking at an alpine Dificile rating, making this a peak for those with strong rock climbing experience. And as one of the ultimate challenges in alpine rock climbing, the Petit Dru can also boast the revered Lafaille Route, a climb that takes the 101st, and last, spot in Philippe Batoux’s ‘Mont Blanc – The Finest Routes’.
MY MOUNTAIN...
JON BRACEY
Chamonix-based British Mountain Guide and alpinist extraordinaire www.facebook.com/jon.bracey.3 “Les Drus’ outstanding beauty is topped off by having some of the best climbs of the entire Alps, that climbers from around the world dream of completing. The traverse of Les Drus, the Allain/ Leinginger North face route, the American Direct, the North couloir direct, Lesueur/Lesueur and
plenty more. What it lacks in altitude at only 3754m, it makes up for in having some of the steepest granite walls around.”
“What it lacks in altitude, it makes up for in having some of the steepest granite walls around.” DECEMBER 2016
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Mt Kenya – a mountain for romantics
9. Mt Kenya, Kenya Welcome to Africa’s deputy. At 5,199m Mt Kenya may be around 700m shy of Kilimanjaro, but it comfortably remains the tallest peak in its namesake country. It’s also a three million year-old volcano which nearly straddles the equator and is so varied in its architecture that it’d be more accurate to describe it as a massif, rather than a single mountain itself. So varied, in fact, that its two principal summits can be reached only by technical rock and ice ascents – relegating
trekkers to its third highest tip of Point Lenana (4,985m). It’s for these reasons that it remains a far less popular summit than its higher neighbour – which although over 300km away is visible from the summit on clear days – and an attractive destination for climbers keen to attempt routes on its granite-like syenite features. The two highest points of Batian (5,199m) and Nelion (5,188m) are graded at around alpine Dificile, although it should be noted that the
climate change-driven rapid glacier melt in this part of the world makes the reliability of the ice routes sketchy at best. This aside, if you do visit, you’ll still find a place of great biological diversity, rich in local alpine species and with an excellent infrastructure of huts and shelters. Add to that a colourful history including plane crashes, wildfires and visits by the likes Shipton and Tilman, and you have a peak that is no less interesting than its more famous neighbour.
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REBECCA STEPHENS
First British woman to climb Everest, journalist and broadcaster www.rebeccastephens.com “In my eyes the most beautiful is Mount Kenya. It’s intriguing, it reveals itself as you climb and its slopes are littered with romantic names – such as Gate of the Mists, Batian, Nelion and Point John. Best of all, from the top you can see the wide obtuse triangular shadow of the mountain cast 46
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across the African savannah (which just happened to be my first love as a student). Absolutely no mountain can knock it from first place.”
“It’s intriguing, it reveals itself as you climb and its slopes are littered with romantic names.”
Most Beautiful Mountains The awe-inspiring Torres del Paine
10. Torre Central, Patagonia The three granite ‘towers of Paine’ would be a spectacular sight wherever they sat in the world, but placed in the centre of Chile’s most mountainous and dramatic National Park really is the crowning touch. Similar in design to the Fitzroy massif 160km to the north, and remniscent of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo half a world away in the Italian Dolomites, they take the form of three needles – or arrowheads – rising skywards from a condensed and bulky landscape
decorated with bright alpine lakes. Of the three towers, Torre Central may not be the highest (at 2,460m it falls roughly 40m shy of Torre Sur – although exact heights have never been established) but it’s certainly the most appealing from a rock climbing point of view. There are tens of routes that lead up to the summit, from the original 1963 ‘British Route’ of Don Whilans and Chris Bonington to new options put up within the last decade.
Not that you have to be a climber to enjoy these tremendous pinnacles; the park attracts roughly 150,000 hikers every year, and accessing the best viewpoint of the peaks is less than a day’s walk with a clear ‘mirador’ (viewpoint) being accessible from the Torres Base Camp area. The last part of the name, incidentally, means ‘blue’ in the native Tehuelche language (now almost entirely extinct). This makes its hybrid meaning ‘the blue towers’.
MY MOUNTAIN...
INES PAPERT
World champion ice climber and renowned mixed discipline alpinist www.inespapert.com “I got inspired by the skyline of these peaks, they’re such an imposing triumvirate but just around three times taller than anything else of their kind! I’ve been lucky enough to climb on such a huge Patagonian face, which is an incredible feeling, but also that summit totally
pulled me in just as much. I read lots of articles about the 1,300m ascent line ‘Riders on the Storm’ (east face of Torre Central, first sent in 1991) in the early 90s when I had just started climbing… and I got an absolute kick out of it! The line, the climb, the style of the five-person German team of Güllich, Albert, Arnold, Batz and Dittrich was always a reason for me to visit this place, to work hard on my skills and to finally get to a place where I could attempt it myself. When I did it was like a dream come true.” DECEMBER 2016
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MountainSkills SKILLS & ADVICE
THE KNOWLEDGE
Crampon Technique INSIDE THIS MONTH’S SKILLS SECTION: 48 KNOWLEDGE
This month we continue our essential winter skills lessons with a look at crampon technique
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AVALANCHE AWARENESS Dave Hollinger from Glenmore Lodge advise on the factors that’ll help you avoid getting caught in an avalanche
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HOW TO TAKE BETTER OUTDOOR PHOTOS, PART 3 Alun Richardson continues his series with more advice on getting the perfect exposure
This month we take a look at the various techniques used when walking and climbing in crampons... WORDS & PICTURES PETE HILL
W
alking with crampons is a fundamental skill for safe and successful movement in the mountains. To have a slovenly technique is a sure way to trip over at some stage, perhaps with dire consequences. You need to spend plenty of time practising your technique in a controlled situation before progressing on to steeper and more technical terrain. Wearing a helmet would be a good precaution if learning, as would using gloves. However, you may decide to put your ice axe to one side for the initial steps, as this can cause you to alter your balance and not be as smooth when walking. Obviously, the axe is essential at any other time, and you will probably introduce it into your session as soon as you are feeling more confident, or when moving up a slope where a slip could cause you to slide any distance.
FLATFOOTING
OUR EXPERTS The Mountain Skills team
DAVE HOLLINGER Dave is an IFMGA Mountain Guide and a senior instructor at Glenmore Lodge. He has a number of Himalayan expeditions under his belt, and works both in the UK and abroad.
Walking on a gently sloping section of ground is a basic movement, and should be practised first. Known as ‘flatfooting’, maximum security will be found with all of the downwards-facing points being in contact with the snow or ice, and you should concentrate on getting this right from the outset. Try to make the walking movement as natural as possible, so lift each foot and place it in front of and slightly to the side of the other. Be constantly aware of the need to maintain a gap between the points of
your crampon and your other foot, as it is easy to have your feet close together and snag a point. You will have to flex your ankles as the ground gets a bit steeper, and you will probably need to turn your feet across the slope a bit in order to get all of the points in. Lift your feet high so that you can cross them over each other and maintain a safe clearance between points and boot. Zigzagging up the slope will be the best way to progress, changing direction after a few steps. Descent on moderate ground can also be done by flatfooting. Face directly down the hill and flex your ankles, bending your knees as required in order to get all of the downwardfacing points in contact with the snow at the same time. Note that this is different to the heel-plunge steps that we use when kicking steps without crampons, and if you lead with your heel on hard ice you have a real chance of skating off down the hill. Keeping all of the points in contact will be far more secure.
AMERICAN TECHNIQUE
On slightly steeper slopes, we can introduce a variation in the way that we walk. Known as the American technique, it is a very logical method of ascent. One foot is placed into the snow using the front points, the other is placed in the flatfoot position. This foot may need to be turned out to the side at an angle of up to 45 degrees, depending upon the gradient of the slope, but it is important that all downward
PETE HILL Pete is holder of the Mountain Instructor Certificate, has delivered rock and mountain sports courses for a number of years and has been on numerous expeditions around the world.
ALUN RICHARDSON A British Mountain Guide, Alun has led treks and expeditions around the world for the last 30 years, and is also the author of the highly-regarded Rucksack Guides, published by A&C Black.
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Flat-footing in descent
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Make the most of any irregularities on the surface of the snow or ice, such as ripples and old axe or crampon placements, to give the crampon more purchase and the leg muscles a rest, as this technique is quite tiring. On long sections of steep ground, you may find it useful to cut a resting step at intervals, in order to give your legs a breather. This is true of any crampon technique, as a few moments on a flat ledge will do a great deal to help your leg muscles to recover. Frontpointing is also suitable for climbing down, and again, the boot soles should be kept horizontal when placed.
TRAVERSING
Traversing a slope needs to be practised, and this can be done by either flatfooting or frontpointing. If the ground is fairly easyangled, face across the slope and flex your ankles so that you are flatfooting. Take care to maintain a good gap between your feet, remembering that the upslope foot only has a small gap to pass through, so keep it high. If you need to traverse steep ground, it may be necessary to ‘crab crawl’. Face in to the slope using your front points, and bring one foot to the other. Don’t cross your legs, as this will greatly increase the chance of you catching a crampon point. When you do use the axe, be careful that it does not tempt you to lean too far forwards out of balance. Maintain an upright posture wherever possible and move naturally. If placing it above an ice bulge, keep your soles horizontal and don’t lean too far forward, otherwise your crampons will come out.
Using front points on steep ground
points are in contact. Using this technique, you can go straight up the slope if need be, or at any angle. Pure frontpointing is quite tiring on the calf muscles, so when the leg that is frontpointing starts to get weary, simply swap over so that the flatfoot side is frontpointing, and the front-pointing foot is now placed flat. This method is only really suitable for going up, and is very difficult to use in descent.
FRONTPOINTING
When the ground becomes very steep,
BALLING UP
frontpointing will be required. This uses the front two, four or six points of each crampon in turn, depending on the hardness of the snow or ice. The crampon is placed on to the snow or ice with the sole of the boot horizontal, and it is important that you keep it so once the points have been placed. If you drop your heel, the front points will be levered out of the placement by the next set of points. If you raise the heel, the points could be dislodged because of the toe of the boot pushing against the surface, causing them to be levered out.
One hazard that is difficult to remedy satisfactorily is balling up. This occurs when the snow is moist, such as when there is a slight thaw in progress. It then builds up between the points of your crampons into a stilt that stops any of the points from touching the snow, consequently leading to loss of traction and possibly a slip. Many crampons are supplied with anti-balling plates which go some way to prevent the snow sticking in the first place. If there is still a problem, a sharp tap on the side of your boot with the axe should be enough to dislodge the balling. In very poor conditions, this will have to be done often.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Using the American technique
Balled-up crampons
If you need to rest or stop for any reason, don’t be tempted to just sit on the snow. You will immediately shoot off down the slope, possibly going head over heels and out of control. If you need to stop, cut yourself a good-sized ledge to sit in, or better still make your way across to a suitable boulder and sit on that. Once you have negotiated your slope, make sure that you are well away from the edge before removing your crampons. It is very easy to take them off too early, with the consequence that you slip back down to where you started. DECEMBER 2016
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Avalanche Avoidance Glenmore Lodge Senior Instructor Dave Hollinger discusses the way human factors can come into play when making decisions in the winter mountains... WORDS & PICTURES: GLENMORE LODGE
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elow are two case studies based on real avalanche experiences. Read each case study and see if you can spot examples where a human factor (heuristic) trap may have had an influence on decision-making? If so, which human factor is at work? Do you think anything could have been done to avoid the traps? Can you think of examples in everyday life where your conscious behaviour has been affected by human factors?
CASE STUDY 1
Finally the big snows have arrived. After a lean start to the season, two days of constant snowfall have produced over half a metre of fresh snow. Keen to take advantage of a shared day off, three friends (all off-piste instructors or guides) decide to go on a short day tour to get away from the ski resort and into the backcountry. The route plan takes them steeply through some wooded hillside before reaching an open valley at the top of which a final steeper climb (30 degrees max) leads to the top of a nearby peak – about four hours of effort. It’s slow going with the fresh snow and already one of the party is having second thoughts about the avalanche hazard – they have never been in this area before, it feels remote, and they think they have heard a tell-tale ‘whoomph’ sound (a clear sign of snowpack instability, although the tightly packed trees do not cause them to be particularly alarmed). In any case, the group is spreading out so there is no-one to share their thoughts with at that point. One of the fitter, more experienced members of the team is ahead breaking trail. They are enjoying a bit of a workout. By the time the group gather together for a short snack/drink above the treeline in a low angle, picturesque valley, everyone is relaxed again. They discuss being glad to be on easier terrain and looking forward to the next straightforward section and set off again. Some members of the group begin to assume that their ascent will now end below the final climb as conditions are uncertain and time is already marching on. Below the final climb, they stop for another break and 50
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while each person in the group has thought about turning around at this point, they want to wait to see what the others think. The more experienced group member asks what the thoughts of the others are in terms of taking a safe line of ascent up the final slope. It turns out they all agree on a very similar line so, with just enough time to complete the ascent, they continue. Half way up the slope and close to a previously identified ‘island of safety’ there is a loud bang and the traversing skinning track forms a crown wall. A shallow but large area of snow starts to accelerate downhill taking two of the group members with it. One of the avalanched pair manages to roll beneath a boulder and out of the flow but the other continues over a convexity and disappears from view. They are not buried but are carried almost half a kilometre back to the valley floor.
CASE STUDY 2
A group of friends decide to return to a favourite area for an annual winter gettogether. Near the time, a magazine article fuels their enthusiasm for a particular ‘classic’ route which is described as one of the best routes in the area. For this group it is an ambitious objective so they plan a simple walk nearby on the first day to familiarise themselves with the conditions and hopefully to get a good view of the route. Day one, although quite windy, indicates that the conditions are generally good with firm snow underfoot and the group enjoy good views of the planned objective for the next day. A forecasted cold front has not arrived by the time the team return off the hill. Day two gets the team off to a slow start. They are surprised to find that overnight there has been snow in the valley and their car needs clearing. By the time they arrive at the large carpark it is almost full. Their planned route follows a summer path into a large valley before branching off steeply towards a col. There, a simple but exposed ridge leads in a spectacular position to easier terrain and a simple descent back to the carpark. The team follow a good path (firm from the passage of many boots through the
ankle deep fresh snow). Winds are moderate but visibility is generally good. It is obvious that many people have headed into the mountains in the same initial direction, so the group are encouraged that it’s a good day to be out. At a key point the group make a decision about their intended route. Other walkers can be seen heading most likely to the same ridge but via a longer route over another small peak. Since they are later than expected, the group decide to continue with the lower approach and one of the group states their view that the steep approach to the col will be more sheltered from the wind anyway. As they approach the steeper climb to the col they stop to put crampons on and notice another team already close to the base of a long, straightforward snow slope leading to the col. The team continue to follow the now small path (made, they assume, by the team in front) climbing more steeply towards the col. The ascent spreads the group out into smaller groups. Two of the group a few minutes in front pass the other team spotted earlier (who are actually starting a technical climb that leads through steep rocks on the right) and continue breaking trail themselves directly towards the col. About 30m below the col the slope fractures immediately above the group and both members are swept into rocks about 100m below on lower angled terrain. One group member is unharmed but the other is seriously injured and a rescue takes place.
AVALANCHE AVOIDANCE
“Prevention is better than cure.” Heard that before? “Yeah, yeah,” I hear you say, but if ever a cliché applied to decision-making in the mountains, it would be with regard to avalanche avoidance. You’d be forgiven for thinking otherwise. There’s now a strong media presence in extreme sports, which has been littered with videos of spectacular survivals and folk who have ‘got away with it’. You’d almost be excused for thinking it had all been carefully planned and all coming at the expense of numerous other (many untold) examples where, in an instant, lives are changed forever: far from glamorous, far from
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“One thing that can often be offputting for those new to the winter environment is a concern that lack of knowledge prevents good decision making.� DECEMBER 2016
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MountainSkills MASTERCLASS any ‘high-fives’ and far from ideal. With the consequences so uncertain, only the reckless, naive or insane would choose to take their chances. Even armed with the full plethora of modern technology, a better outcome cannot be guaranteed. For that reason it’s worth reminding ourselves of the difference between ‘technology’ which should prevent getting caught in an avalanche in the first place (e.g. access to reliable weather forecasts, avalanche forecasts, good mapping, information sharing resources, basic avalanche knowledge) versus that which might mitigates against those uncertain consequences (airbag rucksacks; transceiver/shovel/probe; avalung; Recco; avalanche ribbons etc). Unsurprisingly, the queue for those who’ve survived one avalanche incident but are happy to experience a second is tellingly short!
BE AVALANCHE AWARE
The very simple and successful ‘Be Avalanche Aware’ (BAA) resource developed by the Snow and Avalanche Foundation of Scotland (SAFOS) is now, for most winter hill users (recreational and professional alike), the go-to framework to help make sound and informed decisions when embarking on winter adventures in potentially avalanche-prone terrain. The model works equally well in both UK and alpine terrain/snowpacks. Here we remind ourselves of the basic BAA concept and how it applies to avalanche avoidance as well as a more detailed look at some human factors, or heuristics, which have been shown to play a significant role in associated decision making. One thing that can often be offputting for those new to the winter environment is a concern that lack of knowledge prevents good decision making. One of the strengths of the BAA model is that it guides users through a series of relatively simple questions that require fundamental but basic levels of skill and should be achievable for anyone with basic hill and mountain skills. The UK mountains tend to offer such a wide variety of options in terms of routes and journeys that a relatively safe option can usually be found even on days with higher levels of avalanche risk in certain places. This luxury is not always available to those following itineraries in alpine terrain where often the path of least resistance has already been identified and short sections of critical terrain cannot be easily avoided. For this reason ’commitment heuristics’ can play a much greater role in decision making (more of which later). Almost all avalanche avoidance begins with thorough planning and preparation, and the BAA model directs us to three simple 52
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“Planning might begin several days before a trip when you begin to study the relevant forecasts, both weather and avalanche...” components: Weather and Conditions; You and Your Party; the Mountain Landscape. Planning might begin several days before a trip when you begin to study the relevant forecasts (both weather and avalanche) as well as gathering information about the intended area you wish to visit via maps, guidebooks, articles or online resources, and consider the skills and experience of you and any group you may be part of. Two or three days beforehand you hopefully have a general idea of what current conditions are like, how they relate to you and/or your group as well as any anticipated changes going into your own trip. With a general overview of conditions, weather, and aspirations, it’s time to look in more detail at formulating a Plan A (and B?). Maps can be studied in more detail and
additional general observations should be made once you have arrived in the chosen area – it’s very useful to be able to form a picture of your intended environment. The detail of the plan should now include identification of any key places or times during the day. Easily remembered as ‘3 A’s’ (Angle, Aspect, Altitude), this includes any particularly steep areas of ground (avalanches release most commonly in zones between 30-45 degrees) along with aspects (relating to prevailing wind or sun) or altitudes that may have been identified as presenting heightened avalanche risk. Other key points can be times of day when significant weather events begin to change conditions or, particularly in alpine climates, when temperatures may start to play a critical part in snow stability.
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navigation, climbing, skiing, mountain biking and sea kayaking.
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“As you approach key points during the day it’s worth being proactive in trying to anticipate what you will find.”
along the right lines: Weather and Conditions; You and Your Party; Mountain Landscape. Make sure you make these observations and share them throughout the group – is everyone picking up on the same things? If out on your own, try talking to yourself. It’s much harder to ignore or fail to pick up on your thoughts if they are verbalised either internally or out-loud and this can help avoid some human-factor (heuristic) influences. Key points that have been identified at the planning stage then become the focus of further decision making and review. For example, the early onset of bad weather (e.g. wind; snowfall; rising temps) identified in the planning phase may not be an immediate issue, but in only a short time conditions can change markedly. Conversely, a time critical plan dependant on negotiating certain slopes before the sun arrives can suddenly become more relaxed when a cloudier than expected day might delay the onset of warming. Key points also give an opportunity to reflect on the possible impact of human factors. As you approach key points during the day it’s worth being proactive in trying to anticipate what you will find. Are snow quantities as expected, is it likely to be windier, less windy, in the shade or the sun. The onset of darkness might be the key point. Are you a confident navigator? Have you got time to reach the summit and return before navigation becomes more challenging? Can you cope in whiteout conditions?
HUMAN FACTORS At the planning stage you will have a better chance to consider reasonable alternatives or plans of action and thus create reminders for use on the route itself. There would be an assumption here that the planning team will have the skills to interpret maps and guidebooks successfully so don’t ignore the importance of basic mountain skills that underpin the entire process. A final point worth noting is that it can be useful to rate any plan in terms of its sureness. Some plans will, by their nature, have a large degree of tolerance in terms of being executed without hiccup and can therefore cope with larger variations should expectations not be met. Other plans may be more ambitious, so will need earlier intervention should conditions change.
PUTTING YOUR PLAN INTO ACTION
So the big day arrives and the planning can start to be applied! In an ideal world everything (from the mood of the party to the conditions that are encountered) will more or less be as anticipated – that’s the
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first good sign. Simple observations, such as “it’s not as windy as expected”, “it feels warm”, “there’s a lot of fresh snow blowing around”, “there’s not much snow on that side”, “it’s really busy” – should all be noted. Try to consider what, if any, effect this may have on your plans (particularly with respect to the key places already identified). Uncertainty can always lead to a feeling of anxiousness and for those with less confidence this early point in the day can seem a bit daunting, but have some faith in the planning that has been done before. Don’t confuse being open-minded with being uncertain (or vice versa)! Having said that, some days present clues from an early stage that all is not as the weather/avalanche forecasts have predicted and plans, especially the ambitious ones, may need to be tweaked from the outset. So, usually with a few tweaks here and there, the journey goes as expected – well done! Again, having done a thorough planning exercise there should be plenty of observations to cross-reference as a check – with the BAA model again prompting you
Alongside a decision-making framework such as BAA, it is well known that even high levels of avalanche education/awareness can be overruled or ignored by simple primal human tendencies. These human factors (or heuristics) can significantly influence the decision-making process and are very hard to mitigate against as many feature a subconscious component that can be hard to spot, let alone quantify. An awareness of how they can impact our decisions offers some protection, particularly if we force ourselves to reflect during our later planning stages or at any key points during the journey. Some of the main human factors can be summarised as follows – each with examples of how they might present themselves as conscious thoughts or words... COMMITMENT “We’re so nearly there. If we can just...” “If we turn around now it’ll be disappointing for everyone, not just me.” “So far so good, well done us!”
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Ironically, a thorough planning phase will already stack a certain amount of commitment to undertaking a particular journey. This could be both the time, energy and effort of planning as well as the physical execution. Nobody likes to call into question their own judgement – especially when so well-thought out – instead preferring to believe that a behaviour is correct because decisions that have brought you to that point prove it. As a journey continues, the commitment heuristic is therefore enhanced. A key defence against this trap are the key points identified earlier in the BAA process. Each key point should trigger a comprehensive and open-minded re-look of the plan, including conscious or deliberate consideration of how much has been invested in the trip thus far and whether that is likely to have an effect on the desire to continue. It should also be an honest reflection on how much of the decisionmaking has gone to plan and how much has been in reaction to unexpected events. SCARCITY “Half-term will be my only chance to go winter walking this season.” “I want some fresh tracks today.” “It will be safer to get to the route first.”
Unlike our planning phase which sets out to channel our options towards good or preferred outcomes (or to identify specific areas on the mountain to avoid), the scarcity heuristic could be described as behaviour arrived at due to the imposition of barriers or restrictions to our enjoyment. Our decision making becomes skewed to the extent that we overvalue our motivations or even actively rebel against what we know to be sound decisions. FAMILIARITY
“I’ve never seen an avalanche there.” “That run has been great all week.” “[Location] is a good choice in bad conditions.”
Group dynamics inevitably affect the decison-making process
Repetition of the same or similar decisions at the same or similar venues often puts us at risk of shortcutting the decision-making process (and potentially missing critical bits of unique information). Ironically, this may be a greater factor for those most regularly making avalanche avoidance decisions. We should try and ensure that our decisions come from the full evaluation of each set of circumstances – even though this can at times seem a bit tedious. Again, the use of key points can offer predetermined opportunities to re-look at the environment and group from a fresher perspective. SOCIAL PROOF “No one else seems uncertain, so it’s probably just me.” “Other folk have the same idea so it can’t be bad?” “I’m not going to be the one who
KNOW THE SNOWPACK The snowpack in the UK often differs markedly from that in alpine regions, and therefore the scale and type of avalanches that commonly occur can be different. At the planning stage it can be useful to consider the type of avalanche hazard that is presented. Many forecasts will use recognisable terms and phrases such as ‘slab’, ‘loose snow’, ‘propagation over larger areas’, ‘terrain traps’ and ‘remote triggers’. You should understand what these terms mean and try to picture the shape and scale of possible avalanche activity.
says I’m nervous.” Sometimes it can be advantageous to defer to the actions of others in an effort to arrive at a sound decision, but always ask yourself what may be influencing their decisions. It always tends to feel better when other people have chosen a similar option, but it can be very hard to determine whether actively conforming or deliberately avoiding an existing behaviour has advantages or not. Even within a group, some members can be swayed by complicated dynamics within the group and create a skewed consensus. The subtle difference between peer encouragement and peer pressure would be one example of this. For info on winter courses, including avalanche avoidance, go to: www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
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How to... Take better outdoor photos In part 3 of his series, Alun Richardson delves further into your camera’s functions to help you achieve the correct exposure and sharp images... WORDS & PICTURES: ALUN RICHARDSON
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o far in this series we’ve examined how to choose a camera; how aperture, shutter speed and ISO are you used to get the correct exposure, and how to start moving away from programme/auto mode. This month we are going to concentrate on two more technical issues that can make a real difference to the quality of the images you capture. First of all, whether you take images in JPG or RAW format, it is always good idea to get the exposure you want correct at the point you take the shot i.e. ‘in camera’. It is possible to make some adjustments in post processing (easier with RAW), however the less post processing needed the less noise you introduce into the image.
ASSESSING THE EXPOSURE
After taking a shot, a quick look at the image on the rear screen of the camera will provide an indication of the exposure. The picture is you view is a compressed JPG, because even if you shoot in RAW, the screen is not calibrated and the brightness of it is influenced by the light falling on it. Whether you shoot in JPG or RAW, there is a tool called the histogram that can help to assess whether an image is over or underexposed.
HISTOGRAMS
The histogram is a graphical representation of the pixels exposed in your image and is displayed on the rear screens of most cameras, but you may have to select it in the menu. It will either be a single black/grey graph or each red green and blue colour channels will have a graph. The difference is that with the single graph the camera is only measuring the exposure on a single colour channel, usually 56
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green, whereas on the RGB graph each channel is assessed which means that if the overexposed area is in a different channel to green it will not show. However the single channel assessment is accurate enough for most images where snow and clouds are involved. The use of the histogram doesn’t stop at the camera, it is also used when processing images in Photoshop or Lightroom. What does it tell you about the image? The left side of the graph represents the blacks or shadow areas of the subject. The right side represents the highlights or bright areas of the subject. The middle section represents mid-tones (middle or 18% grey). The height of the peaks represents the number of pixels in that particular tone. TOP TIP: WHITE BALANCE If you are shooting in JPEG the white balance is important to give the image the right tone and colours to it. Using the wrong white balance will make your image look too blue or too orange. However if you shoot in RAW this can be easily corrected in post processing. A scene with a full range of well-exposed tones will produce a histogram that reaches from edge to edge without a space on either side and that isn’t heavily going up one side or the other (see diagram 2 on next page). A dark scene e.g. a dark cat on a dark background will produce a histogram shifted to the left to represent the darker tones of the subject (diagram 3). A white cat on a white background will
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MountainSkills MASTERCLASS the picture too dark. I usually take a spot meter reading from the brightest white area and overexpose a little because the cameras light meter is calibrated to read pure white as 18% Grey. If there are no bright whites I select an 18% Grey area. I then take the shot and review the histogram on the rear screen to check that I haven’t pushed the image too far to the right. If the image is a one off and I cant repeat it I will often take a test image first. For some scenes such as bright sunsets or inside a building where there is a bright window/light bulbs I do not worry about a small amount of highlights being clipped, as the white areas are what the eye would see anyway. I like to have control over shutter speed, aperture and ISO, so shooting in manual or aperture/speed priority is what I have advocated in these articles, but there are very good photographers who shoot on full automatic, using matrix/evaluative metering, program and auto ISO. They look at the histogram and use the exposure compensation control to get a better exposure if needed. Do what works for you.
Getting it right ‘in camera’ saves time and less noise in post editing
HDR
produce a histogram shifted to the right (diagram 4). They are all correct exposures! When the histogram tells you to adjust your exposure Gaps on either end of the graph indicate you are missing information in the shadows or highlights and the exposure can be shifted safely to cover more of the range of tones without losing detail. An overexposed image - The gap on the left side indicates a lack of black tones (see diagram 5). The spikes up the right edge indicate a loss of detail in the highlights, called ‘clipping’. Clipped areas in the highlight area are often impossible to correct for at the editing stage, whereas darker areas can more easily be lightened using image manipulation software. When there is clipping in the highlights change the aperture, speed or ISO to expose the sensors to less light and retake the shot. An underexposed image - The gap on the right side of the graph indicates that there are no whites so the image is too dark (see diagram 6). You can safely give the image more exposure until the graph just touches the right edge. Spikes up the left edge indicate “clipping” of the dark/shadows and loss of detail in that area.
EXPOSE TO THE RIGHT
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so that the bright tones just touch the right edge yet aren’t clipped. This is because although it is easier to recover some shadow detail and retain a decent image it does create noise and you want to minimise that. TOP TIP: HIGHLIGHT WARNING To help show how far to brighten an image, most SLR cameras have a setting called “highlight warning”. This makes any overexposed highlight areas “flash” when you preview the image. This means the highlights are being clipped and data is being lost. You may need to activate this feature “highlight warnings” in your settings menu first.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
If you have digested the previous articles you will know that changing the shutter speed controls whether we freeze or blur movement and changing the aperture controls how much of the image is acceptably in focus - depth of field (see later section in this article). Along with ISO all three control the final exposure and how the image looks. Much of my photography occurs in the mountains where there is often dramatic differences between the light and darker areas i.e. high contrast range. Avoiding clipping the highlights is very important for me, but this makes exposure a compromise to avoid losing detail in the snow or clouds, but doesn’t make
To capture the full detail in the shadows and highlights it is possible to use a series of images taken over a range of exposures and then use special programme called HDR to combine them and extend the tonal or dynamic range of the scene. This can be done ‘in camera’ if shooting JPG or in post processing if shooting in RAW.
FOCUSING
First of all, good quality cameras have a small wheel on the side of the eyepiece to adjust the focus to your vision. You can adjust the eyepiece to a fairly large degree, but if it isn’t enough you may be able to get a different eyepiece. Check when you buy the camera. A camera’s autofocus system adjusts the camera lens to focus on the subject, usually by sending a beam of light and measuring how far away the subject is or using contrast detection. Getting well-focussed images is a fundamental skills of photography, but remember many great photos use deliberate unsharpness and out of focus areas to add something to the image.. This may sound like a silly thing to write, but first of all focus on the most important thing. A camera focuses its lens at a single point – an imaginary plane where the things on that plane are ‘in focus’. In front and behind this ‘plane of focus’ there is still an area of acceptable focus known as the depth of field, it’s not a fixed distance, it can be: ’Shallow’ - where a narrow zone appears sharp ‘Deep’ - where more of the picture appears sharp.
MountainSkills HOW TO... USE YOUR CAMERA’S HISTOGRAMS Number of pixels
Your camera give you lots of info about the exposure of an image, and here’s how you can interpret it
Dynamic range 1. A histogram shows the dynamic (light) range of a subject, from dark tones to light ones
2. A scene with a full range of well-exposed tones will produce a histogram that reaches from edge to edge
3. A dark scene will produce a histogram shifted to the left to represent the darker tones of the subject
4. A light scene will produce a histogram shifted to the right to represent the lighter tones of the subject
5. An overexposed image – the gap on the left side indicates a lack of black tones
6. An underexposed image – the gap on the right side of the graph indicates that there are no whites so the image is too dark
7. When you look through the eyepiece there will be one or more points on the screen that the camera will use to focus on
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MountainSkills MASTERCLASS either choose to continuously track your chosen subject should it decide to move, or focus lock if you would like to recompose. So why not just use this? Because it is too easily fooled by the subject stopping and starting and it doesn’t always choose the correct subject! I never use this mode, although it may be useful if you are shooting quickly while climbing. Some even have face detection AF where boxes appear around the subjects head.
Being able to quickly assess the exposure means never missing a well-exposed shot
Manual Focus - Useful when it is dark, you want to focus on infinity or you are having to tilt the camera a long way to focus and recompose, which would mean the focus point changes when you recompose. It is also possible to move the focus point on the cameras screen to one side or the other to avoid this, but I find it time consuming and the centre point is usually the most accurate.
SHARPNESS
“Don’t confuse out-of-focus images with unsharp ones due to camera shake...” The depth of field depends on aperture. When you focus on an object and increase the aperture e.g. go from f/4 to f/8, the area in front and behind the plane of focus will get deeper. The depth of field will also depend on how close you are to the subject. When focusing on subjects relatively close to the camera the area of acceptable focus tends to be about 50% percent in front of the subject and 50% behind. As the subject get further away from the camera, the plane of focus will shift so that is it closer to 33% in front of the subject and 67% behind. Don’t confuse out-of-focus images with unsharp ones due to camera shake – hold the camera correctly (not balanced in front of you so the back screen is visible) and use a shutter speed that reduces camera shake. Image stabilisation systems will let you hand hold at slower shutter speeds, sometimes up to three stops more.
AUTO FOCUSING MODES
When you look through the eyepiece there will be one or more points on the screen that the camera will use to focus on (see the picture 7 from a Nikon camera). Autofocus mechanisms can struggle when trying to focus on single colours such as walls, skies or snow so try to focus on an area with some detail/contrast. Single Spot AF - This mode is predominantly used for when the subject is stationary although it can still be used for capturing moving subjects by focusing on a point that you anticipate the subject will cross. When the shutter is half pressed the single AF point focuses on what it is you interested in. By 60
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keeping the shutter half depressed the camera can then be moved to recompose the image e.g focus on the person’s eyes, then recompose to put the person to the left hand side of the image. On top end cameras it is also possible to allocate a button on the rear of the camera to be the focus button instead of the shutter release. It is pressed to focus, but it can then be released without the focus point changing. The camera then doesn’t waste time attempting to focus every time the shutter release is pressed and you can wait until the subject is in the right position to take the shot. When the depth of field is shallow (lens wide open) i.e. amount in acceptable focus is small, keep the sensor parallel to the subject when you recompose otherwise the focal plane may change. Continuous AF - This setting tracks your initial focus point and readjust the focus accordingly. It is ideal for moving subjects. Advanced cameras have options that enable you to specify the AF points that the camera will use to track the subject as it moves. When using continuous AF it’s usually best to select the starting AF point so the camera knows what the target is before it starts to track it. There are many options with continuous AF, too many to discuss here, so read your manual carefully. If you have a back button dedicated for focus just keep your finger on it while the camera tracks the subject. Multi-spot AF or leave it up to the
camera - This leaves it up to the camera to decide, what to focus on and which is best out of the other two focusing modes to use. It will
The slightest error using the AF system or manual focus will cause unsharpness at the point of interest. If an image is out of focus, it can’t be focussed by sharpening in post editing. RAW images will always need some degree of post production sharpening whereas JPGs are sharpened in camera. The amount needed will depend on its use. A web image is not sharpened to the same amount as a print. High ISO images will be less sharp so for optimum sharpness use a low ISO. All lenses have an optimum aperture where they are sharpest corner to corner. Although more expensive lenses work better over a wider range of apertures the reasons some images are soft rarely has anything to do with the lens. Lab tests are a poor way of assessing lenses for real photography, where subjects move, the image is never flat and there is heat shimmer and moisture in the atmosphere. Long lenses have even more glass stacked between them and the sensor, they have paper-thin depths of field and often lots of atmosphere between them and the subject. Ultra-wide zooms are often soft in the corners shot at wide-open apertures because of what is being asked from them. Understand the limitations of the lenses you use and work within them. For most lenses, this usually means shooting a few stops away from wide open or the smallest aperture. A sharp photo therefore needs good lighting, clear air, putting the subjects in the plane of best focus, depth-of-field, a steadily held camera and an appropriate shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Finally the larger the sensor on the camera the sharper the image will be. NEXT MONTH: In the next issue we’ll look at how to carry camera equipment when trekking and mountaineering, and what makes an image great.
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WORDS: DAN ASPEL PICTURES: STEVE PEAKE
Dragon Heart ERIC JONES
We talk to the Welsh mountaineering and base jumping legend about a lifetime of daring feats and why it’s finally time to hang up the climbing boots…
W
ith all due respect to Eric Jones, not all of you will have heard of him. And that’s not your fault, but it’s also a situation that needs correcting. Because his achievements are astonishing. He was the first Briton to solo the north face of the Eiger, he has soared 2,000m above the summit of Everest in a hot air balloon, shared climbs with some of the 20th century’s greatest mountaineers, parachuted and BASE jumped all over the world, skydived into 400m deep holes in the ground, soloed great peaks in Patagonia and the European Alps and – perhaps most impressively of all – owned and run a successful north Wales climbers’ cafe for the past four decades. You may have read about that last one quite recently. Because this summer – and after 37 years of ownership – he and his wife Ann decided to part company with the Eric Jones Caffi and Campsite near Tremadog, a place from which he has spent his life travelling to great peaks and adventures, and returning to pass on his experience to a host of regulars and progressive years of aspiring young climbers. “It’s contradictory, those periods of peace mixed with those feeling of itchiness,” Eric tells me, of the familiar force that has defined his semi-domestic, semi-nomadic life. “The former are always too short, and the latter always come back! When I’m at home in Wales I ride my bicycle most days, perhaps five times a week, and if I don’t go I get really quite tight and start to need that release and freedom.” Fortunate then, that Ann has been part of his life: “I’ve been very lucky to have my wife here to look after the cafe,” he says. “She’s been very willing to let me do these things, and I try to make it up to her when I’m back here! I’ve enjoyed the last 37 years, and I’m sure I’ll miss it. The social side, that’s the nice thing. I feel that, even though I’m old, I can feel an affinity with the young climbers.” (though it must be said that Eric is planning on celebrating his upcoming 80th birthday on a motorcycle track day). “I remember being outside one day talking to a group about the climbs in Tremadog and I glanced at the window and saw the reflection of four young guys and then one old man… me! But talking to them I didn’t feel for one moment more than twice or three times their age.”
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EARLY DAYS
With so much to discuss, it seems logical to start at the beginning: with Eric’s first adventures in the outdoors. “I was brought up on a farm with absolutely no mountaineering background,” he says, “but being in a mountain environment, I typically feel a sense of peace and tranquility. Of course, each place brings with it different sensations, but in Snowdonia – which has always been my home – I’ve always felt it the strongest. Yes, you may find an awful lot of people around Llanberis and Snowdon, but head south into the Rhinogydd and you can walk and scramble all day without seeing a soul. That’s what’s always appealed to me.” “The first time I went up Snowdon I was just a kid of 13 and walking with my sister. It was an October evening, and our only goal was to better see the harvest moon. That was my reason to reach the summit – I had no interest in the mountains for themselves! That came later, aged 25 or 26. I was working on shift in a factory with a friend; we were working nights and weekends, which gave us time off in the week. So we started walking in Snowdonia and soon saw people climbing these rocks. We thought it would be a nice thing to do, obviously, but we knew absolutely nobody that could help us. So we did what most people do and signed up with an instructor. In our case it was Ron James, who ran a climbing school at Ogwen Cottage. He took us on a three-day course to learn the basic skills of rock climbing. From then on we started out on our own. Climbing in the week meant we didn’t get to know many other climbers, and going from one grade to another was in itself a great adventure. We didn’t have any mentors to reassure us and tell us we’d be alright pushing it to the next level. “After climbing for a year or two, we were spending all our time in the Llanberis pass. Then, disaster. My friend found a girlfriend in Llanberis, so I was forced to spend time on my own. That’s when I started soloing. I repeated the easy climbs we’d done and found I really enjoyed it. Not having to look after another person or carry any equipment to speak of was very freeing. I became addicted to it. Once again I worked way up grades, and along the way scared myself more than a few times”. Lacking any real-life guide or mentor, Eric found inspiration in literature: “My bible at that time was Walter Bonatti’s ‘On the
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“The Pillar hadn’t been repeated solo since Bonatti himself did it, so by the time I reached the summit I was exhausted but also deliriously happy.” Heights’,” he says. “I read chapters and chapters of it and dreamed of going to the Alps and repeating what he’d done. I soon found that there were others out there doing much the same thing: Cliff Phillips, Pete Minks, Alan Rouse… to name a few, and all soloing quite hard climbs at the time. But there really weren’t many of us. Generally it’s frowned upon, and the truth is that it is very dangerous. You don’t just need skill and composure, but a lot of luck as well. No matter how good you are, if a stone falls down or a hold breaks… you’re gone. That’s what’s so addictive about it, perhaps. I soon discovered the reward, though – when you complete a big climb in the Alps on your own the feeling of elation is just incredible.” Coming early in his career, perhaps one of the greatest and most formative of Eric’s climbs was his solo ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Aiguille du Dru. Initially aborted, but eventually successful, at one stage he passed as close to death as any climber could; a slip and fall into a rocky couloir hundreds of metres below being narrowly averted by the improbable (and, in fact, nearly impossible) fact that a thinlycorded fifi hook had caught in one of the route’s emplaced pitons. “The Pillar hadn’t been repeated solo since Bonatti himself did it,” says Eric, “so by the time I reached the summit I was exhausted and aching but also deliriously happy. It’s such an incredible-looking piece of rock it was worth the climb, even if it did nearly end my climbing career before it had really begun.” Having since gone on to solo many peaks around the world, including a slew of the Alps’ great north faces – those of the Eiger, the Matterhorn and the Piz Badile – it’s fascinating to speak to Eric about the psychology involved in such an undertaking. “I’ve always found that there’s something in your mind – a survival element – capable of putting you onto a level which you didn’t previously think existed,” he says. “It’s difficult to explain it further beyond that, but on my Eiger nordwand climb – when faced with a massive, intimidating and seemingly impenetrable ice bulge – it enabled me to tackle a move which I wouldn’t have thought possible. Normally when faced with a difficulty like that you get quite scared and you begin to believe that you will fall. But that time on the Eiger I felt very calm. That’s the only way I can describe it.”
CLIMBING WITH LEGENDS
Eric’s climbing would take him onto even greater heights, both literally and metaphorically. And prominently amongst them is arguably one of the greatest moments in 20th century mountaineering: Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler’s 1978 ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen. Having become firm friends with photographer and filmmaker Leo Dickinson, and having met the Austrian legend Messner via his wife Uschi, the pair were invited to join the attempt. “It was really hard for me,” says Eric. “They were much faster climbers than I was. They live in the Alps and simply climb harder than people like me who live at sea level, even then in my prime. Leo and I were following them with the aim of filming them during the high altitude part of the attempt. But I was quite a way behind them by the time they reached the South Col. Part of my plan, of course, was to reach the summit myself. But it wasn’t to be. I had a very bad night and also my feet were frostbitten, with my fingers starting to go the same way too. I was willing to take a chance with my feet, but the thought of losing my fingers was just too much. At the time I was certain I could have reached the summit had I used supplementary oxygen. But I had bad feelings about that. It brings the mountain down by around 5,000ft and it was against my ethics of solo climbing. I was never going to don a mask and carry oxygen tanks on my back. The most important thing about mountaineering is to survive, of course. On Everest today people go up, pay their money, often without the 64
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necessary experience, and without ever having learned their limits. Knowing when to turn back is perhaps the most important skill you can learn, and though it would have been meaningful to reach the summit, I’m glad I put it to use during my time on Everest.” Given his part in this game-changing achievement, it’s perhaps surprising that Eric doesn’t command the same level of fame as other British mountaineers such as, say, Doug Scott or Chris Bonington. His response to the thought is an interesting one: “I think they’ve been doing it longer than me,” Eric tells me, “and I think they’re more committed climbers as well. I was always involved in many different sports: motorbikes, skydiving, ballooning, the intense adrenaline rush of BASE jumping. And although it is for certain solo climbing that has given me the most prolonged joy over the years, I was of course a parachutist before I was a climber… though over the years I didn’t really do that many jumps, only around 700.” (yes, that sounds like a lot to us as well – Ed). “So those ‘better known’ figures are and were out-and-out climbers. The truth is I wasn’t a very good expedition man, either. On the ones I went on, after two or three weeks I started getting homesick and would lose interest in everything! A friend of mine, the late Roger Baxter-Jones, would go to places such as Kanchenjunga with Doug Scott and they’d be around Base Camp and climbing for weeks on end. They’d come back to Kathmandu, have a week there, and then go off on another expedition! They were dedicated mountaineers, whereas I was a dabbler. My only defence is that Tremadog is utterly beautiful, only five minutes from the sea and Snowdonia. People complain about the weather, but that’s foolish. I’ve spent a lot of time in hot countries and I wouldn’t want blue skies every day!”. A side-effect of having been part of the fabric of mountaineering’s history is the insight it has given Eric into the way the world has changed over the past half a century. “Patagonia is a magical place, but a terrifying one,” he tells me. Having spent six days huddled from a storm in an ice cave high up on the astonishing needle of Cerro Torre, it’s easy to see why he’d think so. “But the way it’s changed from 1971 to the recent trip that we did there (with young Welsh climber Ioan Doyle for the excellent 2015 documentary film ‘Copa - Patagonia’ – Ed) is dramatic. Back then there was hardly anybody. The National Park had only just been opened and the only thing of any note in El Chalten was the warden’s house. Now it’s like a little Chamonix, with hundreds of walkers and climbers there. I have mixed feelings about it. It’s nice to have been there before, when to be honest it was much more frightening. The same is true of Everest Base Camp; it’s changed beyond recognition from the 1970s into the annual village that it is now. I’m lucky to have seen both before they became that way. But that doesn’t mean that climbers can’t still get that old frontier experience in many other parts of the world.” Likewise, the incredible feat of ballooning over Everest, to an estimated 11,000m in altitude, is something that Eric sees as something consigned to the past, and unlikely to ever be repeated. And that’s despite the resulting picture taken by Leo Dickinson from onboard being described by Reinhold Messner as “the best snap on earth.” Surely a tempting enough prospect to lure future adventurers with their own ambitions? “Looking down on all the highest peaks in the world was an astonishing feeling,” says Eric. “But how could it be repeated now? It simply costs too much money. The sponsors, Star Micronics, had to put up well over £1m by themselves – and that was back in 1992. The cost came through the crew: four pilots, a filming team, a mechanical team, all for two weeks, and with Leo and myself spending time climbing neighbouring peaks in case we came down in high mountains, then another two weeks to get the right wind speed and direction. That’s the frustrating thing about ballooning!”
Eric Jones Eric on photographer Steve Peake’s E3 route ‘New Management’ at Tremadog
Climbing ‘The Old Man of Stoer’ in Torridon
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Eric Jones
ROCK OF AGES
It’s also hard to avoid the topic of Eric’s age. Although he’s in superb condition for a 79-year-old, it’s an unavoidable reality that he cannot climb at the level that he once did - an issue explored warmly and positively in ‘Copa - Patagonia’. “I think I’ve come to terms with it. You can’t beat old age,” says Eric. “The last few years I’ve been climbing with a local farmer named Jeremy Trumper who’s only six months younger than me. In September we went out to the Dolomites, we’ve climbed in Wyoming. I think the only difference I can see is that the fire isn’t there any more. In the old days if I failed or had to turn back I’d be frustrated and angry. But now because of old age, and perhaps arthritic joints, we’re more likely to just have a laugh about it and go down the pub! I’d say that I’m still bold in my mind. It’s quite scary in a way. I’ve been a motorbike fiend since a young age and when I put my helmet on I feel 18 again. My mind still wants to do it, but my old back and the arthritis in my body sometimes just won’t let me!” The next logical questions are these: with such an enviable wealth of experiences to look back on, which climbs would he most like to repeat now, and which were the ones that got away in his prime? “I think repeating the Eiger would be pushing my luck a bit,” says Eric. “The Bonatti pillar has fallen down now, so that wouldn’t work… I think I would go for the north face of the Piz Badile. I really enjoyed soloing it, it wasn’t unduly hard and the weather was great. And I met an Italian on the summit and got drunk with him – it couldn’t have been better!
“It would have been nice to have reached the summit of Cerro Torro when I climbed it in 1971, of course, and the magnificent Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorrasses. I went twice to solo it and twice I turned back – once from bad weather and the other time… well, I’ve had these feelings on other mountains, and although I can’t explain it I just didn’t feel good about it. I don’t know if it was a moment of fear or if it was some other instinct, but I turned back. It made me very annoyed at the time because it was just a perfect day. But who knows? A loose stone could have hit me and I may not have lived to have regretted it.” Eric’s place in history is one appreciated by some now, and hopefully by many more in the future. And with so much experience of casually mentoring young climbers at the cafe in Tremadog, it’s fitting to finish our interview with his thoughts on what awaits the younger generation of mountaineers out there in the hills. “There have always been challenges,” he says, “and I personally look way back towards the Golden Age of the Alps, when the peaks were climbed for the first time by hard people with appalling gear. We’re really all softies compared to the Victorians! Today though... I’m not at the cutting edge of climbing, but I’d simply forget Everest and the well-known peaks. There are lots of great faces and lots of technical high altitude routes left that haven’t been achieved or even discovered. And of course, the remote and inhospitable places like Greenland remain forever tempting. I would say that the future is full of possibility. The leading edge of climbers will always find a way.”
GET THE BOOK Eric’s autobiography ‘A Life On The Edge’ was published last year and has received an enthusiastic response from critics and readers alike. The book recounts all the highlights of an incredible life full of real adventure, in the frank
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and humble manner that typifies the man. Also well worth a watch is ‘Copa – Patagonia’, the 2015 film that follows Eric and young Welsh climber Ioan Doyle as they travel to Patagonia on the 150th anniversary of the establishment there of the
Welsh settlement, Y Wladfa. It’s fascinating to watch Eric and Ioan climb together as Eric reminisces about his life. You can rent or buy the film at www.steepedge.com while the book is available from Amazon.
Climbing ‘The Old Man of Stoer’ in Torridon
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Runners snake their way up towards the ArĂŞte du Mont Favre
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UTMB
Sophie Nicholson goes behind the scenes at the 2016 Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc, and very nearly snatches a podium position in the women’s OCC event... WORDS: SOPHIE NICHOLSON PICTURES: PASCAL TOURNAIRE, FRANCK ODDOUX
Picture: Pascal Tournaire
T
he soundtrack to the average mountain foray tends to be a subdued affair. More often than not, days in the hills involve immersing oneself in serene silence punctuated only by a natural crescendo of wind or chorus of birdsong, a distant rumble from an aircraft or the odd pleasantry exchanged with a fellow mountain-goer. But things are changing out there and they’re changing at speed. From Lakeland fells to Scottish skylines, from alpine cols to Rocky Mountain ridges, the hills are increasingly becoming alive with the sound of mountain runners. Feet pounding on trails, the tapping of poles on rock, rhythmic breathing induced by raised heart rates and burning quads; this new band of compression-clad endurance fiends are rapidly becoming regulars in vertical venues all over the world. Significant advances in trail running-specific gear technologies, a growing global appreciation for the natural environment, and the release of the best-selling book ‘Born To Run’ have all been incredibly influential in persuading increasing numbers of runners to abandon roads and seek an altogether muddier kind of adventure. Popularity of the mainstream sport of ‘trail running’ is at an all-time high, yet it is the growth of the more niche pursuit of ultra mountain running where my interest really lies. Back in the day, the standard 26.2 miles road
marathon was widely considered to offer the ultimate challenge, but these days the ultra mountain marathon reigns supreme. Any event that involves covering more than 26.2 miles or 42km on your feet is an impressive feat in its own right, yet what makes the ultra mountain events so remarkable is the elevation profile involved. A flat road marathon may be a difficult but achievable goal for many, but it takes a special kind of nut-job to opt for the thousands upon thousands of metres of lung-busting ascent and knee crushing descent that an ultra mountain event entails. For the majority of entrants, winning an ultra mountain event is not even remotely on the cards. Just getting around the course and reaching the finish line is more than enough of a challenge. Yet despite the obvious selfinflicted pain and punishment that comes with these sorts of mega endurance events, they are currently more popular than ever before. Whilst you’ll need to be quick on your feet to complete an ultra event, you’ll have to be even speedier at filling in forms as many of the flagship events now tend to sell out within minutes of subscriptions opening online. One such coveted event that sits right up there on many ultra mountain athletes’ bucket lists is the legendary Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB presented by Columbia). In a sport where the names of the biggest events are often more recognisable than those of its professional athletes, the UTMB is head DECEMBER 2016
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“A global icon and a figurehead, the UTMB is more than just an event; it’s a legend and a highly successful brand within its own right.”
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With five courses of differing lengths to choose from, the UTMB has a race to suit almost all runners, as long as you’re capable of running an ultra-mountain marathon of course. Rather than keeping the event exclusive, the race organisers have done their best to allow as many runners to take part as possible by creating new races, each with their own unique personality and challenge. Within three years of the first edition of the 170km UTMB held back in 2003, applications were exceeding the 2,500 race capacity. As a result, the organisers decided to create another event – the 101km CCC - to enable more long distance running fiends the opportunity to experience the legendary UTMB. In 2007 a system of qualifying points was introduced, as was the PTL – the 290km team event. Two years on the 119km TDS was also introduced as demand for the UTMB continued to outstrip supply. The final race added to the portfolio was my event – the 55km OCC – run for the first time in 2014. Whilst the UTMB itself obviously remains the headline act, by introducing a series of other races that run throughout the week the organisers have created an event that surpasses any other of its kind anywhere in the world – the Glastonbury of mountain running, if you like. And much like Glastonbury, a UTMB ticket can be hard to come by, with a whopping 15,000 applying for the 7,500 available spots.
Picture: Pascal Tournaire
THE RACES
Picture: Franck Oddoux
and shoulders above the rest. Described by pro runner Ryan Sandes as “the trail-running equivalent of the Olympics”, other events may be longer in distance, involve greater elevation gain and take place in tougher conditions, but no mountain race comes close to having the international presence of the UTMB. A global icon and a figurehead, the UTMB is more than just an event; it’s a legend and a highly successful brand within its own right. Like many other mountain runners, the UTMB had been buzzing around my radar for quite some time. Intrigued rather than obsessed by the event, I was curious to understand what it was that made the UTMB such a sought-after prize for so many. What is it that makes this race stand out above all others, and precisely how has it managed to achieve and maintain this status in an increasingly crowded event marketplace? How has the UTMB managed to evolve from a niche alpine running race into the ‘World Summit of Trail Running’ over a period of just 14 years? It seemed to me that the only way to get answers to these questions would be to get under the skin of the UTMB. I needed to place myself right into the heart of the action and take part in a race so when I found out at that I happened to have the necessary points to qualify for this year’s 55km, 3,300m+ OCC, I decided to apply. I was accepted. Gulp. I spent my winter as normal – ski touring as much as possible and doing absolutely no running at all, so when summer rolled around the pressure was definitely on. The 25th August was D-day for my ultra running debut and when I finally put my skis away at the end of May, I had just three months to put my intricate training plan into action. The plan? Well, it involved getting out in the mountains as much as I could, but not so much that I injured myself. Oh and I did some stretching. Okay, so I admit it was hardly a highly scientific approach but I guess it must have worked in some way. I made it to the start line in Orsieres (bonus) and, crucially, I also managed to make it the 55km back to Chamonix in under 9 hours, finishing 4th in my category, 2nd GB female, and 20th woman overall (mega bonus). I may have missed the podium for my category by one place, but my original mission was complete. I had come to find out more about the UTMB, to experience the legend and explore this most mythical of mountain running beasts. I had wanted to understand just what it was that made this race so special. This is what I learned...
The 5 races are as follows:
UTMB: 3 countries, 170km, 10,000m+ CCC: 3 countries, 101 km, 6,100m+ TDS: 2 countries, 119km, 7,250m+ OCC: 2 countries, 55km, 3,300m+ PTL: 3 countries, 290km, 26,500m+ Non-stop, team event in complete autonomy NB: There is a sixth race – the 15km YCC for 16–22 year olds
THE COURSE
Breathtaking yet brutal, the UTMB offers competitors the unique privilege of running through one of the most beautiful and challenging environments on the planet. The original UTMB route follows the traditional Tour du Mont Blanc hiking route that loops around Mont Blanc itself and over the course of 170km and 10,000m of ascent, runners travel through three different
Hundreds of runners waiting for the start in Chamonix town centre
UTMB Spectacular scene as competitors run through the night
‘Our’ Sophie on her way to a fantastic 4th place in her category
Picture: UTMB Official
Picture: Pascal Tournaire
The scenery along the UTMB course is unrivalled
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UTMB Mont Blanc towers over competitors
spent two years working towards the UTMB, earned his place on this year’s event, struggled through the heat and a terrifying night-time thunderstorm, and was on the final descent from Flegere to Chamonix when his body and mind finally gave up. An agonising 20 minutes away from the finish line, his brain shut down and he sat down, refusing to take one more step. He walked back up to Flegere and got a helicopter down. From the start to the very bitter, blisterridden end, maintaining focus is absolutely key. The UTMB is Social Darwinism in action – a race where only the very fittest will survive and even then, there are no guarantees.
Picture: Pascal Tournaire
THE ELITES
countries, over 10 cols and 400 summits, and pass by countless rivers, waterfalls and glaciers. Chaperoned by legends such as the Grandes Jorasses and Les Drus, and watched over constantly by the main player Mont Blanc herself, the journey can last anywhere between 21 and 46 hours, depending on whether you adopt the hare or the tortoise approach. Compare that to the 7-10 days that it takes hikers to complete the course and you’ll have an indication of the challenge it entails. I may have only been taking part in the baby of the race family – the OCC – but every section of the 55km course was truly stunning and a joy to explore. With the beauty and majesty of the Mont Blanc massif to distract you from any physical suffering you may be experiencing, the kilometres actually tick by relatively quickly – I promise! When things seem grim, one of the best things to do is just raise your head and look around.
THE WEATHER
Any legend has a track record and while the UTMB may only be 13 years old, it has packed more drama into its short life than a US Presidential election. The chaos is almost always the work of the same culprit however – the pesky, unpredictable Alpine weather. The tone was set back in 2003 when the very first edition of the UTMB was run through rain, cold and hail. 711 competitors lined up in Chamonix back then but only 67 managed to complete the event. Since that first race, the weather has taken centre stage in five editions of the event, with runners having to deal with the whole spectrum of conditions. Scorching heat in 2009 and 2015 created extremely difficult conditions for all whilst biblical rain and ensuing flooding 72
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in 2010 forced the cancellation of the TDS and postponement of the UTMB. It was 2012, however, when the weather made its greatest impact on the event. Facing the dangerous prospect of having thousands of UTMB runners out on the mountain in extreme cold, hail and snow, the race organizers were left with no choice but to create an alternative, shorter and lower route. This year the weather once again took centre stage as a heatwave hung over the Chamonix valley throughout the week, creating suffocating conditions for the runners. Temperatures sat at or above 30 degrees all week and, as a result, drop-out rates in all of the races were extremely high – over 40% in both the UTMB and the TDS in fact.
THE RUNNERS
It may have mainstream global appeal but make no mistake – there is no cannon-fodder at the UTMB. The qualifying procedure is so demanding that you can be sure that every single one of the 7,500 runners who line up on a UTMB start line has absolutely earned their right to be there. If you want a piece of the action you’re not only going to have to put in the time, training and effort to earn the necessary qualification points required for all of the events, you’re also going to need to have a spot of luck on your side. Earning the requisite points is a challenge within itself but it only gets you to the next stage – the random draw. After that your fate lies in the hands of the mountain running gods (better known as whoever is in charge of pulling names at random out of a hat). There’s hardship involved throughout the process and if you want to earn the coveted finisher’s gilet you’re going to have to fight for it every step of the way. One person I know
A race of superlatives, it is little wonder that the UTMB draws the world’s best runners to Chamonix, year after year. As Jason Schlarb, the US runner who placed 4th in 2014 said: “To come here is a sort of pilgrimage. The UTMB is the biggest of all ultras. Everyone wants to come here and all the best of the best come here.” They don’t come for the prize money – because quite frankly there isn’t any – but instead for the individual challenge, a taste of the legendary UTMB experience, and the kudos that inevitably comes with a potential podium finish in the biggest and most competitive field of any trail event on the planet. As this year’s winner Caroline Chaverot explained: “I could win any race I want, but I wouldn’t get as much recognition as I would if I won the UTMB.” Arguably the biggest reputation-maker in trail running, the UTMB has provided the launch pad for some of the sport’s greatestever athletes over the years, including the UK’s very own five-time winner Lizzy Hawker and Spanish mountain superstar and three-time winner, Kilian Jornet. Together with the likes of two-time winner Francois d’Haene and Xavier Thevenard (who has now won all four of the UTMB races and the UTMB itself twice), these athletes are now mountain running legends. To stand on top of the UTMB once is extraordinary, to win it numerous times is superhuman. To be in with a shot of the greatest prize, the elites have to be prepared to go far, far beyond their limits. One athlete who pushed unbelievably hard this year was American Zach Miller. Winner of the CCC in 2015, the 26-year-old who lives in a cabin halfway up Colorado’s Pikes Peak went out of the blocks like a rocket, ran from the front and led for the majority of the race before eventually coming home in 6th place. He may not have won the race but his bravery and high risk/reward strategy won him a host of new fans and was arguably the stand-out performance on this year’s UTMB. In a post-race interview with irunfar.com, Miller explained his approach: “I don’t know what I can do, but I’m going to find out, or I’ll find out what I can’t do. Then when I find out what I can’t do, I’m going to
Go big
PHOTO: PALLY LEARMOND.
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UTMB “The last few steps towards towards the finish line were confusing; I craved the end to the effort that it represented, yet I wanted the adventure to continue forever.” go home and get back to work and try and do what I want to do.” One to watch at next year’s UTMB for sure…
THE ORGANISATION
Much like Miller’s race strategy, putting on an event the size of the UTMB is a risky business. Calling yourself the ‘World Summit of Trail Running’ is one thing but being able to back that up at every level is a different prospect altogether. If you think running the UTMB must be hard, just imagine what goes into organising this immense vertical circus. With 7,500 runners, 100,000 spectators, 140 exhibitors, 47 business partners and 11 charitable associations to take care of, the UTMB event organisers face a mind-blowing logistical challenge every year yet they appear to pull it off with comparative ease. For most of the year there is a team of just six people employed to work full time on the event, but when August rolls around, the operation scales up a tad. This year there were 65 people in race HQ, a team of 90 working in media and communications and incredible 2,000 volunteers from 15 different countries – all of whom were brought in to help ensure the smooth delivery of this most epic of events. As a runner, you feel like pretty much everything is taken care of for you. From
transport to the start line (for both yourself and your nominated support crew), to the drop bags you pick up at the finish, from the 15,000 waymarkers indicating the route, to the 303-strong medical team brought in to keep you safe along the way, race support is there at every level, leaving you to free to focus on the task in hand. And if it all goes wrong, the team have even developed a downloadable Smartphone app that allows race organisers to locate runners, and runners to alert the rescue services, if the sh*t hits the fan out on the trail. Smart app, smart idea.
THE ATMOSPHERE
If you had to put your finger on one single factor that makes the UTMB so special, it would have to be the atmosphere that accompanies the event. If you happened to be in Chamonix during UTMB week and knew nothing about the event, you’d be in for the most splendid of shocks. A vibrant, buzzing place at the best of times, Chamonix sparks with ultra-fuelled electricity when the UTMB rolls into town. The nervous pre-race anticipation is palpable every where you look, as indeed is the disappointment of a DNF etched painfully on the faces and feet of those who failed heroically in pursuit of their goal. For one week at the end of August, the town
goes mountain running mad. Harness-wearing alpinists, so used to being the main players in town, wander the streets without a second glance from the crowds who have a new set of lycra-clad, visor-wearing heroes to worship. Elite runners, regular competitors, running enthusiasts and non-running tourists alike all come together to celebrate the sport of endurance running and the glorious madness of those who choose to do it. On a personal level, I will never forget running through Chamonix during those last few kilometres of the OCC this summer: the support of those who lined the streets, the little girl with her ‘allez les filles’ poster, the countless high fives from friends and hundreds of people I’d never even met... and then, before I knew it, there it was – the finish line. That one thing I had strived so hard for. The last few steps towards it were confusing; I craved the end to the effort that it represented, yet I wanted the adventure to continue forever. Most importantly, however, I wanted a beer – so I decided I probably needed to cross it after all. No matter which race you take part in, or where you finish in the field, Chamonix, the supporters and the team behind the UTMB will make you feel like a hero. The whole experience would be nothing without them.
5 LESSONS LEARNED...
The five things the author learned from doing her first-ever mountain ultra
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Run your own race The start line can be a crazy place, so work out a race strategy that works for you and make sure you stick to it. Whether you run to a specific heart rate or focus more on pace, don’t be tempted to go faster or push harder to keep up with other runners. French elite runner Ludovic Pommeret didn’t panic when he was in 50th place this year at the 50k mark in this year’s UTMB. He made his way through the field and ended up crossing the line in first place.
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Learn how to descend Races may be won on the ascent but they can be lost on the descent. Practising running long, technical downhill sections at speed is key. The descent was definitely where I made up the majority of my time on other competitors in this year’s OCC.
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3
Picnic on the move Somebody once described ultra races as eating competitions and it’s not far from the truth. You’re going to be burning thousands of calories so you’ll need to start eating within the first 45-60 minutes of the start and keep chowing down regularly throughout the race. You also need to be eating the right things. It may have been 35 degrees out there during this year’s OCC, but the hot salty noodle soup available at the aid stations was a lifesaver for me, helping to replace all the salt lost through sweat.
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You WILL hit a wall This is an ultra, it is supposed to be difficult so it is more than likely you will hit a wall. Depending on the length of your race, you may even hit a few of them. Recognise it for what it is, figure out what you need to do
to get past it (eat, drink, rest, look around you, play some music, speak to someone etc) then keep on truckin’.
5
Prioritise post-race recovery Like many others, I suffered with stubborn flu-like symptoms following this year’s OCC that I put down to not giving myself enough time to recover. Make a plan for post-race recovery – give yourself enough time to rest up properly and start stretching, rehydrating, and refuelling as soon as you can after crossing the finish line. If at all possible, clear your diary for a couple of days following an event as sleep is unlikely to come the first night after an ultra due to excessive adrenaline, sugar and caffeine consumption. Oh, and ice baths really do help – just look what they’ve done for Andy Murray!
UTMB UTMB Stats & Facts Interesting info about the event
NUTRITION 35,000 cereal bars 15,000 litres of cola 13,000 litres of soup 11,000 drop bags 1,500kg of cheese ENVIRONMENT 1,230 km walked by ambassadors
to survey condition of route before and after event
Picture: Sophie Nicholson
RUNNERS 7,500 Runners from 87 countries, 13% Women 87% Men, Average age UTMB – 43 years old Oldest male – 84 years old (OCC) Oldest female – 73 years old (OCC) Youngest runner – 20 years old (TDS)
CHARITY €340,000 donations for 11 charitable organisations ECONOMIC BENEFITS €6 million generated by runners and their supporters, 100,000 spectators MEDIA 108 hours of live broadcasting on UTMB TV during 2016 event, 5,700,000 videos watched on DailyMotion in 2015, 165,000 Facebook followers
UTMB winner Ludovic Pommeret at the finish line
Essential gear
What kit do you need for racing the UTMB? Here’s what T&M’s Sophie Nicholson used...
A serious race requires serious kit. The following is a complete list of the lightweight and technical gear the author wore and carried for the OCC race in this year’s UTMB...
1. La Sportiva Akasha shoes – Comfortable high volume shoe with excellent protection and cushioning. 2. Maloja Running Top and Salomon S-Lab Exo Skort
– Breathable sleeveless top and premium trail-specific compression skort. 3. Helinox Passport trekking poles – Ultra lightweight, compact poles,
imperative for steep and technical alpine terrain (328g per pair). 4. Suunto Ambit 3 Vertical watch – Essential for monitoring heart rate, pace, speed, elevation and distance. 5. Cébé S’Pring sunglasses –Women’s-specific trail running sunglasses with interchangeable lenses. 6. Arc’teryx visor and buff – Essential bits of kit to keep sun and sweat out of your eyes. 7. Columbia Montrail OutDry EX Light shell – Waterproof, breathable and extremely lightweight hooded trail jacket that meets UTMB regulations. 8. Inov-8 AT/C Racepant U – Waterproof, breathable trousers with taped seams. 9. UltraAspire Velocity pack – Outstanding 7L capacity racing pack. Comes with two 550ml bottles. 10. Other mandatory OCC race kit – Mobile phone, 15cl water beaker, Petzl Reactik+ Headtorch with spare batteries, survival blanket, whistle, adhesive elastic bandage/strapping, 1L of water minimum, food.
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34 HELIUM T COMFOR r IR A R E DEUT perio ct fit, su ivalled e f r e p a for unr fort and ion m o c y r r ca tilat back ven pack to www.deutergb.co.uk
December 2016 LOOK OUT FOR EDITOR’S CHOICE
• The Editor’s Choice tag is awarded to the product/s that are judged the best in their category in our Group Tests.
NEWS GROUP TEST KEY PRODUCT MINI TESTS BUYING ADVICE
Grouptest
THE GEAR WE’VE TESTED THIS MONTH...
Keyproduct
4-Season Sleeping Bags
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95 Ontest
For high altitude or winter treks and expeditions, a warm sleeping bag is vital – our test team, headed by Paul Smith, try out 10 of the best currently on the market...
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WORDS & PICTURES PAUL SMITH
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here’s nothing worse than shivering all night in your tent when on a trekking or mountaineering trip, and those that have experienced this will Meet the Group Test team agree that investing in a high quality 4-season sleeping bag is money well spent. In the past, the logical choice has generally been for PAUL SMITH Gloucestershire-based down-filled bags, given their unbeatable mountaineering and weight/warmth ratio and superior kayaking instructor who works full-time running his compressibility, however synthetic-filled bags business Rock & Water are much more affordable and may still be the Adventures. preferred option if you’re heading off to somewhere where you are guaranteed damp BECCA SMITH ML and SPA award holder or wet (as well as cold) conditions. They won’t Becca has been playing in be as light or compressible as down bags of the outdoors for as long as course, but they will generally lose far less of she can remember – The guys and gals doing the testing this month are... climbing, kayaking and their warmth when wet, and also dry out expeds around the world. much quicker. Having said that, many down bags now ROBERT LAVIN PAUL SMITH CHRIS KEMPSTER come hydrophobic (water-hating) down A qualifi ed teacher, field Rob is a teacher, field Paul iswith an International T&M’s Editor is based studies tutor tutor and and freelance studies Mountain and inside, so Leader the traditional advantage ofin the Alps but regularly outdoor instructor freelance outdoor with a Mountaineering visits North Wales, the synthetic filling over down is not quite as penchant for the instructor with a hardship Instructor (MIA) who Lakes and the Scottish of remote expeditions pronounced asthe it UK once was. AlthoughHighlands we penchant for remote in instructs both in during trips snow-covered terrain. and snowy expeditions, and abroad. to the UK. haven’t run specific tests on the effectiveness of the various types of hydrophobic down, our inclination is to consider them as ‘insurance’ against getting wet, rather than a licence to Becca: Well if we were to say that 3-season roll around in puddles at night. With that in
TEST TEAM
Key Product: Rab Zero G Jacket Feature: Gear Of the Year Tested: Lifeventure Thermal Protection Tested: Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket
THIS MONTH’S TEST TEAM
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that the manufacturers now commo with their products. These figures ar guide, because some people feel the more than others, but they are a use of reference. Paul: Of the EN ratings, which are important figures to look for? Becca: Well, women need to look Comfort Limit and men the Lower Li Extreme figure is the temperature at bag will keep a typical woman alive worse-case scenarios basically. Paul: What factors affect how wa are in a sleeping bag? Rob: The person in the bag has th affect. How warm a sleeper they are have eaten before going to sleep, th that they have on; these are all facto need AMANDA to be taken into account. TRAVIS Paul: Clothing is an important iss Hailing from Ontario, Amanda I’m now certainly wear often Canada, overlooked. lives in the Alps and whenenjoys usinghiking, a sleeping bag in winter rock climbing, climbing minimum of ice a base layer top and bo and mountaineering. almost always a pair of thick socks. A colder, the more I will put on. What y lying on has an affect as well, so mat yourDECEMBER sleeping 2016 mat to the conditions 77 with how warm your sleeping bag w
Keyproduct
Rab Zero G Jacket £350 The Zero G is Rab’s first jacket to use 1000-fillpower down, and offers superb warmth for weight and packability – we head out into the winter mountains to check it out... WORDS: CHRIS KEMPSTER PICTURES: AMANDA TRAVIS
U
p to now the use of 1000-fillpower down – the very highest quality down available – has been restricted to the odd specialist product, from the likes of Patagonia (with their Encapsil Down Belay Parka) and certain of PH Designs’ bespoke sleeping bags and jackets. With the launch of the Zero G Jacket from Rab, however, the benefits of this high quality down will now be available to plenty more outdoorists, and we only hope there’s enough down to supply the demand! The advantage of this grade of down is simple – it saves weight. The same weight of 1000-fillpower down will provide more warmth than the same weight of the more common (and ‘superior’ standard) 850-fillpower down, and lots more than 600 or 700-fillpower down. Why? Because the down is loftier, and so traps more air within its clusters, which in turn makes it a better insulator. Rab describe their aim when designing the Zero G jacket: ‘’We challenged our design team to create the ultimate alpine down jacket – super-lightweight, yet robust enough to stand up to the rough nature of fast-and-light alpine routes.” To achieve this they have not only had to source the best European-made, ethical down to fill it, they have also had to look at the other materials used in the jacket, and made judgement calls on what features to include and what to leave out. So let’s take a look at the Zero G…
FEATURES
So just how light it is the Zero G Jacket? Well, we weighed the medium test sample we received and it came in at 288g with its stuffsack, which is quite remarkable, though Rab are quoting ‘310g estimate’ on their website. Either way, that’s damn light for a jacket offering this much warmth. We mustn’t forget the pack size of the Zero G either, for this is almost as important for the type of user that
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would consider buying this jacket. In its supplied stuffsack, the Zero G is about the size of two Coke cans placed side-by-side, which is very small. Everyone has enough space in their pack for a jacket that packs down this small. The inner and outer of the Zero G uses a super-light 7-denier Pertex Quantum GL fabric, and this is soft to the touch and quite shiny. The construction is of the stitch-through type, and there doesn’t appear to be any zoning going on, just a constant thickness of insulation all over the jacket. There are two handwarmer pockets, virtually hidden when not open by the use of YKK CONCEAL zips, and there is a semi-elasticated hem and elasticated cuffs, which obviously save weight over cords and adjustors. The hood has a fabric volume adjustor at the back, and there’s an area of soft material around the mouth area. Finally, there’s a useful tab on the inside of the hood (along with a hook) that can be attached to the volume adjustor tab on the back of the hood to secure the hood when not in use.
climb in them due to their bulk, is another matter. That, we think, will prove a major attraction of the Zero G. Elsewhere we liked the Zero G’s stretch cuffs, which keep drafts out yet allow gloves to be worm underneath or over the top, however we weren’t as keen on the handwarmer pockets which, while undeniably neat, are a little bit fiddly to use with gloves on and can get jammed with the fabric if you’re not careful. The hood is not big enough to accommodate a helmet, however it does works well underneath, and the tiny flexible polymer peak is a bonus on this type of jacket. Overall we were mightily impressed with the Zero G and, aside from the Berghaus Ramche 2.0 Down jacket (which also goes for £350 and is slightly warmer but also heavier) there’s not too much in the way of alternatives on the market. The weight of the jacket for the warmth it gives is amazing, but the lack of bulk will also be a massive attraction to alpinists in particular and anyone for that matter who wants a warm, light, packable down jacket.
IN USE
Verdict: Unbelievably light, warm and packable down jacket – just brilliant
In use, it takes a time to trust the fact that the Zero G gives you a lot of warmth for its weight. On days when you think that it’ll be too ‘light’ for the temperatures, it surprises by giving as much warmth as heavier jackets; although it has only 130g of down in it, that down certainly packs a punch. Once you’ve got over this hurdle and are prepared to trust it to keep you warm, the Zero G is a delight to use. The fit is quite snug (on our medium, at least) so if you think you’ll want to wear more than a baselayer and a fleece underneath, for example, you may want to consider sizing up. However, if you intend to climb in the Zero G, you’ll probably want to take your normal size, and this brings us onto another benefit of a jacket with such high quality down – its lack of bulk. Other jackets may give you the warmth you need, but whether you can actually
Spec sheet Price: £350 Weight: 310g (estimate) Fill weight: 130g Fill: 1000+ fillpower European goose down Outer: Pertex Quantum 7-denier More info: www.rab.equipment
Zero G offers amazing warmth for its weight
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Gear Of The Year 2016
2016: THE YEAR IN GEAR We take a look back at the best gear that came into the T&M office this year – including the winners of our Group Tests and the featured Key Products – in our annual Gear Of The Year round-up… Force Ten Argon 200
Rab Nimbus Jacket
Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket
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he outdoor gear world can be a confusing jungle in which navigation can prove as hard as in a white-out in the mountains. One of our most important jobs here at Trek & Mountain is to make sense of the torrent of new products and technologies that come onto the market each year, and it’s a job we take very seriously. After all, most outdoorists don’t have the time to compare products from all the different brands every time they want to buy a new item – and anyway, if the weather permits it they’d rather be outside doing what they love best, anyway. Luckily, we are on hand to cherry pick the most important new clothing and equipment products and bring them to your attention, while comparing and contrasting similar products to make recommendations about which might be best for your intended use. In this article, we take a look back at 2016 and some of the best products we’ve used in anger in the mountains; firstly the Key Products we chose as being particularly significant, and secondly the winners of our Group Tests; the products awarded our covered Editor’s Choice awards. Haglöfs Roc Helios 25
KEY PRODUCTS OF 2016 RAB NEBULA/NIMBUS JACKETS (FEB 16)
Synthetic insulation ‘pretending to be down’ was all the rage in 2016, and one of the most successful of these was Rab’s take on the idea with their Nebula and Nimbus jackets. Both jackets use Cirrus synthetic insulation from 3M, which offers much of the warming properties of down, but with the benefits of synthetic insulation i.e. quick-drying and retaining of insulating properties when wet. The jacket’s baffles make the Nebula and Nimbus look like micro-down jackets, but wrapped up in a Pertex outer, both jackets offer a brilliant insulation choice for damp British conditions and a tough garment to use day-in-day-out on expedition.
LOWE ALPINE MANASLU 55:65 (MAR 16)
Lowe Alpine have been steadily refreshing
their range since their acquisition by Equip UK (the owners of Rab) and the Manaslu 55:65 (also available as 65:75) was their take on the tough, no-nonsense load-carrying pack for multi-day adventures. The Axiom back system is the headline feature of this pack, giving superb comfort during long hiking days, but our testers also appreciate the simple yet functional design of the pack. “Despite having plenty of features, it never feels over-fussy or complicated”, they commented.
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR UELI STECK COLLECTION (APR 16)
When Ueli Steck took on his 82 Summits project last summer, he did so with a set of clothing and equipment tailor-made for him by sponsors Mountain Hardwear. We got to try some of the range, including the Supercharger Shell Jacket and Supercharger Insulated Jacket, and the Desna Hoody and Desna Pants, and were impressed with the low weight and the way the various pieces worked together as a system. One of Steck’s requirements was that he didn’t have to spend time changing layers during a one-day
Haglöfs Spitz Jacket
Berghaus 8000 Pro Jacket
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producing really solid, well-made and easy to use tents over the last few years, and the Argon 200 is another model that the T&M team have become very fond of. Tough enough to stand up to strong mountain winds and pitchable on rocky ground or snow, the Argon is nevertheless extremely lightweight for a semi-geodesic design (only 1.8kg), which puts it in an exclusive club of tents that offer the best of both worlds. Mountain Hardwear Ueli Steck collection
ascent, and this was reflected in the design of the products. For example, the Desna Pants (a kind of stretch fleece) had venting zips that opened in the same places as the waterproof pants, meaning that direct ventilation is super quick and easy.
BERGHAUS EXTREM 8000 PRO JACKET (MAY 16)
On the 30th anniversary of their Extrem line of expedition products, Berghaus set out to produce the ultimate mountaineering hardshell, and what they came up with was the 8000 Pro. We took it to Nepal with us on our Khumbu 3 Peaks expedition, and the jacket sucked up everything we threw at it. The build quality was excellent of course, with a special Gore-Tex Pro face fabric exclusive to Berghaus, but it was the ingenuity of the MtnHaus design team that impressed the most. Anyone for a helmet-compatible hood that reduces its volume by means of embedded magnets, anyone? This typified the leave-no-stoneunturned approach the design team took with the 8000 Pro, and it’s one that paid off for sure.
FORCE TEN ARGON 200 (JUN 16) Force Ten by Vango have steadily been Arc’teryx Acrux AR
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR RAINSHADOW 36 (JUL/AUG 16)
Waterproof backpacks might not be such a big deal in the alpine countries, but in the UK they can be a definite bonus, yet it’s not the easiest or cheapest thing in the world to be able to build. Mountain Hardwear have got around the problem by the use of OutDry which can be bonded, in one piece, to the inside of the pack’s material (and over seams) unlike other waterproof fabrics. The result: a pack that you can pretty much submerge (not the lid though, as that’s only weather-resistant), and do away with the need for drybags. The Rainshadow comes in several sizes, and offers plenty of pockets and features, making it a great daysack for hillwalking or trekking, though we would probably still put our most valuable items (wallet, passport) in a small drybag... just in case!
ARC’TERYX AR ALPINE BOOT (SEP 16) Arc’teryx entered the footwear market with a bang with their Acrux approach shoes and Bora trekking boots, but the Acrux AR Mountaineering Boot really showed that the company had serious intentions in this area. Using the same principles as found in their other footwear products, this insulated double boot uses Adaptive Fit technology (a separate inner and outer boots) and thermo-lamination
Mountain Hardwear Rainshadow 36
techniques to produce a super-light boot ideal for ice and mixed climbing in the Alps.
HAGLÖFS SPITZ (OCT 16)
2016 saw the return of the popular Spitz Jacket from Haglöfs, only now better than ever and using the latest Gore-Tex Pro membrane with a tough yet comfy face fabric. Designed to tough out the worst conditions, the Spitz keeps features to a minimum, yet offers a fully adjustable helmet-compatible hood, water-resistant zips, enough pockets to keep all the necessities and a relaxed fit to allow layering up underneath. Simple, dependable and still a classic.
PATAGONIA NANO PUFF JACKET (NOV 16)
The Nano Puff range is one of the most popular of all Patagonia products, yet the latest versions are also some of their most environmentallyfriendly designs yet. The jacket (and hoody, vest and smock) use PrimaLoft Gold Insulation Eco which uses 55% recycled polyester and Patagonia estimate that in the first year alone will save over two million plastic bottles from going in landfill. The new Nano Puffs also use recycled zippers and labels, and aside from their green credentials of course they are absolutely superb insulating layers for all-year use.
Lowe Alpine Manaslu 55:65 (women’s and men’s)
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Gear Of The Year 2016 Arc’teryx Alpha FL30
many of the climbing brands and walking shoe brands having offerings. Despite fierce competition from the likes of Scarpa and La Sportiva, our testers plumped for the Asolo Magix (men’s and women’s) as their choices, for the following reasons: “Great fit and climbing ability, while also comfortable enough to walk for long distances in.”
Hilleberg Nallo 2
EDITOR’S CHOICES OF 2016 In Trek & Mountain’s Group Test reviews, the Editor’s Choice awards are given to the product (or products if we are testing men’s and women’s, or different categories of a product) that are judged to fulfil the criteria we set at the beginning of the test the best, and usually this is a close-run thing with several products vying for the ‘winner’ tag. Our Group Tests in 2016 were no exception, but hard as the decisions are to make, our testers are required to choose a Editor’s Choice recipient in every test... and here is the list of ‘winners’ from the last 12 months.
EXPEDITION SLEEPING BAGS – MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT ICELINE (FEB 16)
A warm and dependable sleeping bag is one of the most vital pieces of kit for anyone going on a trekking or mountaineering expedition in the Greater Ranges. No matter how hard or cold your days are, your ‘homefrom-home’ makes all the difference if it gives you a good’s night’s sleep. That’s where the ME Iceline scored highly. It’s warm of course, but also has a protective outer that’ll keep your bag from Asolo Magix
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getting wet, and its hood is excellent for cinching in around the head, keeping drafts out and adjusting to fit. It’s well-made too, and that’s borne out by the fact that it’s a favourite among expedition companies.
BELAY JACKETS – RAB PHOTON X JACKET (MAR 16)
A synthetic insulated jacket is a must for anyone winter climbing or hiking and scrambling in damp weather, and it’s a hotly-contested market. In a tight battle for this test’s Editor’s Choice award, Rab’s Photon X Jacket just nicked a win for its combination of warmth and comfort, and fit and features. As chief tester Paul Smith said in the review: “The designers have been careful in zoning the insulation in this jacket to make sure that it is sited where it is needed the most.” Furthermore, he suggested that this is the ideal jacket for Scottish winter conditions which is, after all, what belay jackets were made for!
APPROACH SHOES ASOLO MAGIX (APR 16)
In this test we were looking at the more technical end of approach shoes i.e. shoes that can be used for easy climbing as well as the walk-in to a route. Again, a hotly-contested category with Jöttnar Hymir Smock
NAVIGATION APPS – ROUTEBUDDY ATLAS (MAY 16)
Since the era of the smartphone, navigation apps have been gaining popularity and have provided stern competition for dedicated, handheld GPS devices. Despite a reputation for leading unskilled navigators astray, they do represent another, increasingly sophisticated weapon in the outdoorist’s armoury. In a test that included the likes of MemoryMap, ViewRanger, Anquet and OS, our testers found Routebuddy’s Atlas app the easiest to use, while providing all the functionality that most people should need. In addition, it offered a wide range of mapping with flexible buying options.
LIGHTWEIGHT TECHNICAL SHELLS – MONTANE AIR JACKET (WOMEN) AND JÖTTNAR HYMIR SMOCK (MEN) (JUN 16)
How do you choose a lightweight technical shell from the multitude on offer? That was our task as we tried out 12 of the best brand’s offerings in this sector. The jackets had to be lightweight, have a helmet-compatible hood and high (if any) pockets and of course be windproof, waterproof and breathable. No easy task! Our testers opted for the Jöttnar Hymir Sock (for men) for its Montane Air Jacket (women’s)
NEW Men’s Velez Jacket £275
Athletic cut with excellent articulation •
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FREEDOM TO MOVE
The NEW Páramo Velez Jacket has been created for very active people who enjoy a wide range of outdoor activities. Its versatile, innovative design is combined with outstanding high performance materials. ®
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Functional design details such as adjustable ventilation and articulated sleeves keep you cool or warm AND dry and give you the freedom to move, whether on a bike in the city or on foot or a pair of skis in the mountains. Discover more at www.paramo.co.uk/velez EXTEND YOUR COMFORT ZONE
Grouptest
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superb fit and breathability combined with a great hood, while for the women we choose Montane’s latest Air Jacket, which as well as offering all the right features and a great fit, also offered excellent value for money.
MOUNTAIN TENTS – HILLEBERG NALLO (DOUBLESKIN) AND RAB LATOK MOUNTAIN 2 (SINGLE-SKIN) (JUL/AUG 16) ‘Mountain tents’ is a broad category, and this test included both single- and double-skin tents, tunnel and dome tents, semi-geodesic and fully geodesic tents; the idea being that different designs will be suited to different situations. We picked out two models in the end; the Rab Latok Mountain 2 which is a simple yet brilliantly effective single-skin tent for pitching in precarious positions on alpine mountaineering sorties, and the Hilleberg Nallo 2, a bombproof double-skin tent that will withstand wind, snow and rain and yet give you enough room to store your gear and cook in relative comfort.
TREKKING BOOTS SALOMON X-ALP MTN GTX (SEP 16)
There are lots of different types of walking/ trekking boots out there, but for this test we had some very particular requirements. The boots needed to be comfortable enough to walk in for long days on a multi-day trek, but they also needed to be stiff enough to be able to edge on rock and kick steps in the snow. They needed to offer good warmth and protection, and have a versatile sole that would cope with mud, grass and snow, as well
Petzl Quarks
as providing grip on rock. A tough task indeed, and despite stiff competition from the likes of Scarpa and La Sportiva – and despite having one of the loudest colour schemes we’ve seen for a while – Salomon edged this one with their X-Alp MTN GTX. To quote our tester: “The MTN GTX offers superb levels of comfort, as well as competency on a wide range of terrains.”
TECHNICAL BACKPACKS ARC’TERYX ALPHA FL30 (OCT 16)
Although it would be nice to have dedicated daysacks for each of our outdoor activities, from hillwalking and trekking to scrambling, alpine climbing and even ski touring, most of us have to ‘make do’ with one pack, or perhaps a walking pack and a technical pack. It was the latter of these that we were looking at in this test, and the contenders were required to be versatile enough to be suitable for everything from rock climbing to winter mountaineering. Out of many good models, the Arc’teryx Alpha FL30 emerged as the favourite with our testers, offering a streamlined and weather-resistant pack that was superbly light, could be over-filled with gear for walk-ins to routes and was tough and dependable for heavy use on multi-day trips. The Alpha FL30 was also one of the ‘prettiest’ packs we’ve ever seen, too!
Rab Photon X Jacket
ICE AXES - PETZL SUMMIT (ALPINE) AND QUARKS (TOOLS) (NOV ‘16)
In this test we looked at both classic mountaineering axes for easy winter terrain, and technical tools for more advanced ice and mixed routes. With plenty of great models out there to choose from, our testers set the bar high – and in the end one brand proved victorious in both categories: Petzl. Their newly-redesigned Summit (and Summit Evo) axe is the lightest in its category, yet offers all you need, while their Quarks are the most complete all-round technical tool on the market for multiple discipline use. Rab Latok Mountain 2
Salomon X-Alp MTN GTX
Routebuddy Atlas app
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AVA I L A B L E FR O M P R E M I E R S TO C K I S T S:
B A N A N A FI N G E RS.CO.U K
T H E L E E D S WA L L . C O . U K
L D M O U N TA I N C E N T R E.CO M
C L I M B E R S - S H O P. C O M
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A B S O L U T E - S N O W. C O . U K
Ontest Take your pick: Lifesystems’ Survival Shelter, Survival Bivi and Survival Bag
LIFESYSTEM THERMAL PROTECTION £4.50 - £26.99 Amanda Travis tries out several survival products for winter sorties
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ifesystems makes a wide range of travel accessories and survival gear, but with the colder temperatures upon us we decided to try out some products which are designed to keep you warm in an emergency situation from their ‘Thermal Protection’ line – their Survival Shelter, Light and Dry Bivi Bag and Survival Bag.
SURVIVAL SHELTER
First up is the two-person Survival Shelter, which is also available in a four person version. This shelter is fairly small and lightweight, packing to about the size of a 1L Nalgene bottle and weighing just 345g. In other words, it’s much easier to carry than a full tent, which of course you’re unlikely to want to carry when heading out on a day trip. The first thing that we noticed when pulling it out is that the integrated stuff sack, which has mesh on the bottom, becomes an air hole for ventilation. Luckily, we had a go at using it before heading into the mountains, as we struggled to find a position to sit inside of it that felt ‘right’. After watching a quick video (created by Lifesystems) we tried again. This time, standing face to face, we located the panels for which to sit on, positioned ourselves, and sat down at the same
Spec sheet Prices: £4.50 (Survival Bag); £14.99 (Light and Dry Bivi Bag); £26.99 (Survival Shelter) Weight: 290g (Survival Bag); 205g (Light and Dry Bivi Bag); 345g (Survival Shelter) More info: www.lifesystems.com
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time. This worked like a charm and allowed us to sit much more comfortably, though still snug as you would expect in an emergency shelter. The next step was to tighten the drawcord which runs around the bottom. As much as we tried, we couldn’t get this quite as tight as we’d have liked, and we felt that a simple improvement might be to add a second toggle on the opposite side to allow more adjustment. A clear window lets you see outside as you wait out the storm or await a rescue, and its bright orange colour is of course good for being spotted. In the colder temperatures, we could notice the warmth created within this small shelter almost instantly! It has been designed to use in a sitting position, and unlike some larger shelters, it is not long enough to fully cover an injured party who is sprawled out on the ground; however, in this situation, it would still be better than no shelter at all.
LIGHT AND DRY BIVI BAG
Next, we tried the Light and Dry Bivi Bag which sells for £14.99. I’ve used this style of emergency thermal bivy bag since I started hillwalking and climbing some years ago, and I’ve yet to find a situation where it doesn’t feel appropriate to toss this into the bottom of my pack, especially on day trips where you wouldn’t be carrying a full sleep system. The Light and Dry Bivi weighs only 205g and packs down to smaller than a soda can (into the supplied storage sack). It not only can protect you from the elements, but also reflects and retains over 90% of radiated body heat, making this a step up from the Survival Bag (see next) when it comes to warding off hypothermia, and an obvious choice for those looking for some extra protection without the extra weight! Given its size and weight, I expected a somewhat flimsy material, but was pleasantly surprised to see that it’s actually quite durable.
It was long enough that I could fully wrap it around me, with extra to use as a hood. The bag warmed up fairly quickly and I even stripped off a bunch of layers and still managed to keep warm using this bag (not that this should be a substitute for extra layers by any means!). This is a one person bag, but we managed to snuggly fit two smaller people into it. This could work in a pinch, but would not be ideal. If I could have just one of these items for all of my trips, this would be the one. This, however, comes down to personal preference and I’m sure there many varying opinions on the subject!
SURVIVAL BAG
Finally, the Survival Bag retails at just £4.50, and so there’s no excuse for being able to afford one! The Survival Bag comes with a ‘DofE Recommended Kit’ stamp of approval, and like the Light and Dry Bivi Bag, it is windproof and waterproof. However, it’s made from a heavyduty polyethylene material which (admittedly, without having put these fully through the paces yet) seems much more durable. Since it doesn’t reflect heat, you may want to also bring their Thermal Blanket (£3.99) if choosing this method. In both ML training and Wilderness First Aid training, we were taught ways to use this style of bag not only as protection from the elements, but also as an impromptu stretcher when needed. It is bright orange and can be used as a distress signalling device. It weighs only slightly more than the Light and Dry Bivi Bag at 290g, but can fit two people, if necessary, allowing you to only carry one between you and your partner, and also allowing you to share body heat. Using this bag on its own, I was able to find refuge from the wind and dampness, but still found myself shivering – although it was drastically warmer with two people inside. I’d personally be unlikely to take this out on its own as its thermal properties are limited, but would have liked to have tried it with the Thermal Blanket, which we did not have for this test. Verdict: Affordable products that could be a lifesaver, literally, in the winter mountains
Ontest A ‘suit of armour’ for the winter mountains
large teeth which makes it run smoothly; surprisingly it is not a two-way zip, though. Behind the main zip is a stormflap and this is necessary since, as with most zips of this type, they are water-resistant rather than being completely waterproof. Smaller-sized zips are found on the pockets and the pitzips which have two-way zips on them. The napoleon-style chest pockets are of a good size, though won’t hold an OS map, while on the inside there’s a zipped security pocket on one side and a mesh ‘dump’ pocket on the other. Moving to the hood, and here we find one of the best-appointed helmet-compatible hoods on the market. There are no less than three sets of adjustors: one volume adjustor at the back, another adjustor for tightening around the neck, and two pull adjustors below the collar to cinch the hood around the face. The peak has a non-mouldable insert and isn’t wired, but the collar comes right up above the mouth and nose, giving plenty of protection.
IN USE
ARC’TERYX ALPHA SV JACKET £600 We test out Arc’teryx’s gnarliest mountain shell and find out exactly what you get for your cash...
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he Alpha SV (which stands for Severe Weather) has been updated for winter 2016/2017 and now uses a heavier weight of Gore-Tex Pro than its predecessor – 100-denier instead of 80-denier – and according to the manufacturer this significantly increases the abrasion resistance of the jacket as well as its tear strength. Despite this, a size medium still weighs in at less than 500g which is really impressive for a jacket that offers such high levels of protection. But can the £600 asking price really be justified, even taking into account Arc’teryx’s hard-earned reputation for build quality and cutting-edge design? Let’s find out...
FEATURES
The cut of the Alpha SV is more generous than lighter jackets in the Arc’teryx range, and this allows several layers to be worn underneath the jacket while still retaining enough room to move freely. Strategically placed articulations in the chest and underarm areas give you extra room where you need it, and the arms themselves are quite generous which means you don’t expose wrists while reaching for holds. With a dropped hem at the back of the jacket, Arc’teryx have really nailed the cut of the SV, for this user at least. The zips used on the SV are Arc’teryx’s own WaterTight type zippers, and the main zip has
We used the Alpha SV in cold, snowy conditions in the Alps and wet and windy conditions in the UK and it performed almost flawlessly. The fit really is exceptional, giving you all the coverage you want with an excellent range of motion for when climbing or scrambling. The hood is pretty much perfect when used with a helmet, giving you so much adjustability that whatever the conditions the ideal configuration can be attained quickly and easily, with both vision and protection being superb. Without a helmet on, the hood is still good, though I would have preferred to have had a mouldable wired peak for that extra bit of practicality. The true test of this jacket is how it stands up to prolonged use in bad weather, and in situations where its durability will be tested, such as repeated rubbing against rock and ice. Clearly if you are not intending to use it regularly in conditions such as these then there are many other jackets available that will do the job for a lot less money than the SV. But if dependability and durability are your priorities, the Alpha SV is one of the best options out there, and its hefty pricetag could be one well worth paying. Verdict: For long-term use in harsh conditions, the Alpha SV is about as good as you can get
Spec sheet Price: £600 Weight: 490g Material: 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro Hood: Helmet-compatible, laminated brim More info: www.arcteryx.com
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Phil relaxing before summit day
Cotopaxi appears through the clouds
Who: Phil Brookes What: Cotopaxi When: 10th August, 2012 Where: Ecuador This month we hear from Dr Phil Brookes, veteran of two Trek & Mountain expeditions, who describes one of his best-ever days in the mountains... I got into hillwalking aged 12 on a school camp in Wensleydale in 1968. I remember climbing Lovely Seat and discovering false tops. Since then I’ve lived and worked in north India and Nepal so have had plenty of chances to hike around the Himalayas. I’d been offered a trip up Kilimanjaro as the doctor supporting a charity trek to take place a few months later. I’d been up Mount Kenya but was still unsure how I would react to altitude on Kili. I saw the Exodus ‘Valley of the Volcanoes’ trip and was intrigued that Cotopaxi is 2m higher than Kili – so I sort of felt that if I could crack 5,897m I’d be fine later in the year and not be the cause of problems for the charity group. Ecuador was wonderful! Beautiful countryside, classic volcanoes popping up everywhere, mixed cultures, great food. Loved it! The group got mugged the morning of our Cotopaxi climb though, proving that not all of the people are friendly – down to extreme poverty for some I guess. Thankfully, no one got hurt. Before Cotopaxi, we attempted 90
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Cayambe – just two nights earlier! None of the group summited and I bailed out before some of them. We were well over 5,000m, but seeing as the hut was about that level to start with it’s nothing to boast about. I’d felt cold, tired, and out of sorts. We had a rest day back in Quito – nice food, drink, warmth – that set us up for the summit attempt on Cotopaxi. There was no trek-in to Cotopaxi - we just drove up to just below the hut, then had a short 200m wander to the building itself. Not too hard! Summit day was windy, blizzarding, dark, and very cold. We set off from the hut in the middle of the night, walked for a while to the ice, and then put crampons on. We roped up in teams of three as there were crevasses to cross, then it was a slow, icy slog. Headtorches only show you so much, but we knew the ice slope was dramatic. Summiting Cotopaxi was very satisfying and exhilarating, given how hard the training summits had been for me. I think just going up very slowly was the key, and not
stopping of course! We arrived just behind another group of three climbers, so I think there were briefly six of us on the top, but the wind was howling, ice particles were hitting us horizontally, and it was a complete white-out – no magical views of the Andes or the volcano itself. We all hugged, took some very poor pictures due to the conditions, and started down. On the way down it was daylight and we marvelled at the shapes and fractures in the glacier – it was really magical. Summit day was hard – you need determination to keep moving over 5,000m – but I wanted to succeed for myself and the whole group. This was my first peak over 5,000m, and it mentally set me up for my Kilimajaro trip two months later. My plan must have worked, as I had no problems there. I’ve since tried (and failed!) to climb Aconcagua in 2015 (during Trek & Mountain’s reader expedition to the Andes – Ed) and even got my first helicopter ride as I was medivaced off the mountain. However, I’ve climbed Kilimanjaro three times successfully now and summitted a couple of 6,000m peaks in the Himalayas, so I’m very satisfied with my experiences. Whether I seek to go higher is an open question; I’d love to do the Huayuash Circuit in Peru, and some of the longer treks in Nepal before I get too decrepid!
CARVE YOUR OWN LEGEND
www.jottnar.com
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