HIGH-OCTANE FUEL

High-Octane Fuel BY SCOTT LEYSATH

WHENEVER I’M COOKING WITH ALCOHOL AND SOMEONE else is in the room with me, making flames in a skillet never fails to elicit a response. Cooking with alcohol gets your attention, especially when the flammable fluid comes in contact with high heat or an open flame. We’re drawn to fire, much like many of us are drawn to the occasional alcoholic beverage. But alcoholic beverages aren’t just for drinking.

BEER POACHED FISH

SAUTÉED HALIBUT WITH RED WINE REDUCTION.

GRILLED QUAIL WITH WHITE WINE BUTTER SAUCE.

PASTA WITH MEATY SAUCE

If liquor is not your cup of tea, keep in mind that the cooking process removes most, if not all, of the alcohol and leaves behind varying degrees of flavor and aroma. Steer clear of “cooking wine” and alcoholic beverages with other flavors added. They taste awful. Many fancy restaurants use bulk wines drawn from 18-liter boxes for wine reduction sauces. They also use partial bottles that have passed their prime at the bar. TV chefs will tell you that you shouldn’t cook with wine that you wouldn’t drink, but I disagree. Drink the good stuff and cook with whatever’s on sale. Burgundy or Chablis from a box works fine. If you want to forego alcohol completely, substitute stocks, broths, vinegars or non-alcoholic wine or beer.

One word of caution – be extremely careful when cooking with alcohol near an open flame or hot pan. The visual effect of a flaming skillet can be enticing, but it can also set your face on fire. Alcohol is very flammable and will ignite even when you add it to a hot skillet on an electric range with no flames in sight. To be on the safe side, dilute the alcohol with another, non-flammable liquid and remove the pan from the heat source to add the mixture. Then return the pan to the heat and keep your face as far away from it as possible.

I’m no stranger to a weekend glass or two of red wine, the occasional vodka drink or a really cold beer, but I’m not a big fan of dark-colored liquors, at least not in a glass. However, I often use them as flavoring ingredients in the kitchen. Rum, pineapple juice, chopped green onions, sliced jalapenos, garlic and olive oil make for a sensational marinade for upland game. A splash or two of whiskey and a pinch of brown sugar adds a whole new dimension to bottled barbecue sauce. Finish off a pair of pan-seared duck breasts with an ounce or two of bourbon, some diced onion and a dash of cream for a delicious dish that is sure to impress.

BEER POACHED FiSH

Poaching firm to semi-firm fish is a great way to preserve its moisture. If you have experienced baked, broiled, grilled or pan-seared fish that ended up a bit dry when done, try poaching next time. It takes 5 to 10 minutes to prepare the poaching liquid and then another 10 minutes to cook an average-sized hunk of salmon, halibut, grouper or other fish. Keep in mind that poaching involves a very low heat simmer and the fish isn’t drowned in the liquid. Do not let the liquid come to a boil once the fish is added. Rather, gently set the fish in the skillet or pan so that the poaching liquid just barely covers the fish. Cover with a tight-fitting lid or foil. The fish is done when the internal temperature reaches 140 degrees.

I prefer to poach fish in a skillet on a low-temperature stovetop, but larger fish can be poached in a covered baking dish in a 250-degree oven. If I have a mess of fresh herbs on hand, even a bunch of parsley, I’ll place a clump of herbs on the bottom of the skillet or dish and place the fish on top of the herbs. It adds another subtle flavor profile to the poached fish. Poaching is not for delicate fish that will fall apart when cooking. Leftover poached fish is perfect for mixing with softened cream cheese, lemon and capers for a delicious fish dip.

The type of beer used is a personal choice. Lighter beers will impart a lighter beer flavor and are best for light-fleshed fish. Darker beers will result in a more intense, earthy flavor and work well with oily fish like salmon and steelhead.

4 servings • 1 1/2 to 2 pounds fish fillets • salt and pepper

Poaching Liquid

• 1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced • 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 1 lemon, thinly sliced • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt • 12 ounces beer

1. Prepare poaching liquid. In a large skillet, bring onion, garlic, lemon and salt and beer to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the liquid is reduced by one-half. Reduce heat to a low simmer. 2. Season fish with salt and pepper and carefully place into the poaching liquid. Cover with foil or lid. 3. After 10 minutes, check fish for doneness by pressing down with your finger to determine firmness or use a thermometer to check the temperature at the center of the fillet(s). The fish is perfectly poached when the internal temperature reaches 140 degrees. 4. Remove fish from the poaching liquid with a slotted spoon. Pat dry with paper towels and top with a favorite sauce, if desired. If you want to add some texture, rub the fish with a light coating of olive oil and place under a high-heat broiler for a minute or two until lightly browned on top.

GRiLLED QUAiL WiTH WHiTE WiNE BUTTER SAUCE

If you’ve ever wondered why the sauces taste so much better in some restaurants than the ones you make at home, the difference is usually butter or cream. Many of us throttle back on high-fat and high-calorie sauces at home so that we can still fit into our clothes. That filet mignon at your favorite eatery is often topped with a velvety sauce that might just mean you have to hit the treadmill a little longer the next day.

A wine reduction sauce is both simple and delicious, but it does take a little extra time to do it properly. If you’ve ever made a wine sauce and it was too thin, you made the common mistake of not reducing the wine enough. And while a wine reduction sauce, like a classic beurre blanc, can be prepared with only a cup or so of wine, I prefer more intense wine flavor and will often use the better part of a bottle. Adding cream to the reduction will add body and richness to the finished sauce.

If you want to add moisture to the quail, submerge in a saltwater brine (1/2 gallon water, plus 1/2 cup each coarse salt and brown sugar) for 6 to 12 hours before grilling.

4 servings

• 8 quail, rubbed with olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper • 3 cups dry white wine • 3 tablespoons shallot, minced (or substitute the white part of a few green onions) • 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1/3 cup heavy cream • 1/2 pound chilled butter, cut into small chunks • 1/4 teaspoon salt • pinch white pepper • 1 cup tomato, seeded and diced • fresh basil, chopped

1. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add wine, shallot and lemon juice and bring to a boil. Once the liquid is reduced by half, add heavy cream and reduce liquid down to a few tablespoons. 2. Remove pan from heat. For a smoother sauce, strain shallots from reduced liquid. Whisk in butter, a few pieces at a time, until butter is emulsified. Season with salt and white pepper. 3. Place quail on a hot grill and cook on all sides until just done, but not overcooked. They should still be just a little pink at the thigh joint and still moist. 4. To warm the sauce, place over low heat while stirring constantly until warm, but not hot. If the sauce gets too hot, it will break. To serve, arrange quail on plates, spoon sauce over and top with tomato and basil.

BOUQUET GARNINI

PASTA WiTH MEATY RED SAUCE

Most successful hunters have a fair amount of ground game in the freezer. Making a big batch of tomatoey red sauce is a great way to use up the ground meats and the finished product is infinitely more flavorful than the store-bought stuff in a jar. Any ground game meat will work, but I prefer to mix in either ground domestic pork or the ground meat from a young feral pig when using lean antlered game. Once prepared, allow to cool completely and transfer to freezer-safe containers or zipper lock bags. If you have a vacuum-sealer, transfer the frozen sauce to a vacuum-seal bag, seal and return to the freezer. Several months later, the vacuum-sealed bags can be placed in boiling water for a quick pasta sauce.

Makes about 2 quarts • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 pounds ground game, about 4 cups • 1 large yellow onion, chopped • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 1 bell pepper, diced • 1 bouquet garni (a variety of fresh herbs tied together with a string, or substitute 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning) • 2 cups dry red wine • 1 28-ounce cans crushed tomatoes • 1 15-ounce can tomato puree • salt and pepper

1. Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add ground meat and cook, stirring often, until evenly browned. Add onion, garlic and bell pepper and cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until onions are translucent. Add bouquet garni and red wine and cook,

uncovered, for 10 minutes. Stir in crushed tomatoes and tomato puree. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove cover and simmer for 5 minutes more. Remove bouquet garni. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

ANTELOPE WiTH BOURBON SAUCE

A good accompaniment for dark-fleshed game and domestic meats. Don’t waste your money on expensive bourbon, except perhaps to add a splash of the good stuff just before serving.

Makes 1/2 cup sauce • 3 tablespoons butter • 2 tablespoons onion, minced • 2 garlic cloves, minced • 1⁄2 cup bourbon • 2 cups beef or game stock • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary • 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar • salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté until onions are translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. In another container, combine bourbon and beef stock. Remove pan from heat and add bourbon and beef stock mixture. Return pan over medium-high heat, add rosemary and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until liquid is reduced to about 1/2 cup. Stir in balsamic vinegar and season with salt and pepper. For a smooth sauce, puree in a blender or remove solids by passing sauce through a strainer. ★

ANTELOPE WITH BOURBON SAUCE