MXOffroad.com - Leaving Las Vegas
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Project CRF450
March 2003
A Canadian Wintertime Invasion: Las Vegas/Moab Ride
Leaving Las Vegas
Project WR450F Outdoors Wallpaper
Story: Doug Hunter Photos: Doug Hunter & Paul Behncke
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Since 1996, Brockville Ontario riders Larry Murray and Al Yonkers have been leading winter excursions of off-road friends and acquaintances to the warm, arid and endless landscapes of southern Nevada under the suitably named "Strictly Dirt" name tag. Over the years, visiting Canadian riders have ridden everything from tight rocky trails and power sapping sand washes to top gear runs across dry desert lakebeds; experiences definitely not routine at home! Each year a new combination of returning veterans and first timers take to the desert as the cold wind blows in Canada. The 2002 trip marked the first major departure from the ride's previous Eldorado Canyon near Nelson, format. After a few days of riding some of the Nevada familiar Nevada areas, the whole show would move to Moab, Utah for its second half, to ride four days at this equally famous offroad Mecca. As a previous "Strictly Dirt" Nevada rider; the addition of Moab to the itinerary was enough incentive for me to sign up for this year's ride. For 2002, thirteen riders from Ottawa, eastern Ontario and the GTA made the pilgrimage to Las Vegas in February. About half of the riders were members of the Ottawa-based Bytown Motorcycle Association (BMA) and the (relatively!) mature group ranging from 33 to 58 years of age meshed well. Machinery would range from KTM 200/400 enduros, to Kawasaki KDX 220's, Yamaha WR/YZ 250's, a Honda XR600 and my own XR650R looking forward to being in its element. With a day or two to kill before the bikes arrived, a few riders took the opportunity to experience the "Adult Disneyland" of Las Vegas in all its glory, and also to visit the new Guggenheim "Art of the Motorcycle" exhibit at the Venetian Hotel. The exhibit traces the history of motorcycles with Eldorado Canyon many rare or notable machines over the decades from the original wooden wheeled Daimlier to the modern Cagiva F4 all displayed in a palatial-like setting. Also, included in the exhibit was the familiar sight of my father's 1950 Sunbeam, seemingly wondering what all the fuss was about. We then completed the obligatory Hoover "dam tour", where low water levels due to lack of rain foreshadowed the dusty trail conditions we were in for
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the following days. We left before all the "dam" jokes got seriously out of hand.
Back Row: Al Yonkers, Rob Sanger, Craig Irwin, Tony Chown, Doug Hunter, Doug McNeil, Kirk Potter, Rob McKellar Front Row: Paul Behncke, Larry Murray, Dennis Rose, Dave Chartrand
Leaving behind the bright lights of Vegas we headed out to Jean, Nevada, near the California border. Modest by Vegas standards, it was the perfect venue for our needs from both a cost and geographic standpoint. Some of the best riding in the state is to be had by simply riding out the parking lot. Against most expectations, many tight and challenging single-track trails are to be found here. Steep, rocky climbs and descents are accented by tight turns around and often between huge rocks the size of houses. As the elevations increase, we can see our hotel/casino complex perhaps twenty miles off in the distance, in addition to the next exit at Stateline, perhaps another 10 miles away. All perceptions of space and distance learned in central Canada go out the window, as you seemingly ride to the same feature for hours. While some areas offer just rock and sand, others have cactus and various colourful faunas closely lining the trail. It is important to stay on the trail both for the protection of the vegetation (which must live a hard life here) but also for the preservation of tire tubes, bodywork, riding gear and one's hide. Cactus needles seem to be able to penetrate anything. Hard terrain tires and heavy tubes with high air pressure are the order here. Strictly Dirt riders have learned much over the years, and no flats were experienced, as compared to the tire changing marathons of earlier years. Unfortunately, day two saw our first serious mishap, when BMA Webmaster Doug McNeil had an encounter with a rock in a fairly high-speed roads section. A helicopter medivac led to an unfortunate stay at Las Vegas University Medical Center recovering from a broken pelvis. A similar incident occurred the following day with our new Suzuki DRZ 400 mounted American friend Dennis, who cartwheeled after passing me in the dust and hitting yet another rock! While he walked off the Craig Irwin on the Dry Lake at accident with apparent minor injuries, a broken Jean, Nevada helmet revealed the severity of the impact and prompted another hospital trip for a prudent examination. Nevada terrain always needs to be treated with respect, and combined with the ever-present dust of this year; my already ample riding safety margins were further widened! Fortunately, there were no other serious "getoffs" for the remainder of the trip. The Nelson area south of Boulder City (insert Flintstones reference here!) offers a variety of trail types and conditions suitable for all riding skills. A freshly marked loop from a recent hare scramble attracted a number of riders. Initially quite heavily whooped out, it climbed numerous scenic ridges, which seemed to go on forever. Other area trails with much less recent use also offered challenging riding and great scenery, from high peaks to the
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shores of the Colorado River. Numerous sand washes and "monster" hills offered additional entertainment. Etobicoke Ontario's Craig Irwin won the "nerves of steel" hill climbing award, climbing one daunting slope we labeled"big bertha". The last few feet to the crest came very slowly, with the big chugging XR600 firing seemingly at every second boulder! After climbing a steep, technical trail to the area's highest peak, home of a microwave tower, we decided to take the dirt road back down. Not a regular return ride mind you‌this would be done without power. The impromptu motorcycle "land luge" race provided a hilarious combination of silent running, elbow banging, and foot paddling fun. After recovering from a second row start and Colorado River - Nelson, Nevada a couple bad corners, your not so petite author and equally "largish" bike regrouped for a charge on the final straight. With no sound but the rushing wind and whirring chain, serious speed started to build allowing me to just catch second place Al Yonkers at the line. Passing Dennis, our DRZ mounted friend with about 10 km/h to spare, I could hear "holy &%*!" come out of his helmet. Finally all those years of "training" have paid off in a vivid display of physics; mass, gravity and height! Comments about removing chains and radiator shrouds, prying back brake pads and running 60 lbs. of tire pressure for minimal frictional losses could be heard regarding any running of the event. Mid week, we moved the show to the highly anticipated Moab Utah region. This required a scenic but long seven-hour drive from Nevada across a very remote south central Utah. With time to kill, radios in our vehicles and in the spirit of the following weekend's Las Vegas Nascar race, radio traffic suddenly concerned pit stops, coming in for "left side rubber", tangling with the wall, as well as thanking one's pit crews and an endless array of phony sponsors. At least there were no more "dam" jokes! Moab is an area well known as a mountain bike destination. It is however also a popular 4WD, ATV and dirt bike area with many shared or adjacent trails catering to multiple usage. It also seems to be the destination of every white full Overlooking the Colorado River sized crew cab (preferably diesel) pickup ever Slickrock Trail - Moab, Utah built! After all the magazine articles, net surfing and general "hubbub" surrounding this region, most felt it lived up to its billing. Despite some initial apprehension on our part, we were well received by all the users we came across, with many admiring the bikes, riding gear, etc. Perhaps it was just our natural defensive instinct to overcome, for surely in such a well developed and promoted recreational area, one can't be allowed to simply pay two bucks and legally ride (gasp) motorcycles? But that's exactly what we did. We rode the famous "Slickrock" trail, "Hell's revenge" and the partly snow-covered "Porcupine rim" trail. Nicknamed "petrified dunes", the sandstone trails here are marked by white or yellow painted lines on the concrete-like surface, along with a dirt track-like "blue groove" left by tires. Traction is incredible, allowing menacing looking hills to be climbed effortlessly. All in all, the "trails" look much harder then they are. That is a good thing since Slickrock Trail staying on the trail is an absolute must. While the scenery is breathtaking with the snow covered Lasalle mountains looming in the distance, straying off the white painted corridor could be hazardous to one's health, with numerous drops hundreds of feet to the canyon floors below.
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Regular stops to take pictures and enjoy the view are the order of the day. Where the single track trail met the 4WD trail, accompanied by some mountain bikers and trials bike riders we watched the local Hummer tour operator negotiating a serious drop off while putting their very expensive vehicle through some major contortions in the process! While the official tourist literature (T-shirts and other souvenirs in town) seemed to ignore the presence of dirt bikes, it was reassuring to see plaques and other literature at the trail head clearly state that these trails were built by motorcyclists in the late 1960's; long before mountain bikes were invented. The area appears to be an excellent example of "multi-use trails" at their best. March 1st is the traditional start of the season here, but despite the date our first day's 50 degree F temperatures quickly degenerated to unseasonably cold 30's, seriously limiting our riding "window" to a few hours in the afternoon, after zero degree (F) overnight temperatures and even snow one morning. It was noted by a few with some irony that it was milder back in Ontario! This was a little hard to take after the record warm 80 degree F temperatures in Nevada a few days Expect the Unexpected in the High previous! Still, we made the best of the situation, Desert - Snowy Bikes Outside exploring some of the numerous trails in the area. Moab Hotel It was soon evident that we would not even "scratch the surface" regarding the area's riding potential based on the maps and trail guides available to us. It was also evident that there were many backcountry trails to explore, far from the popular Moab "tourist" trails. This was confirmed after a short visit to local bike dealer (and XR650R internet group administrator) Fred Hinck. His Paris-Dakar proportioned fuel tank being what was required here to truly explore. There are very few services available out side of town and running out of gas in the middle of no where can put a damper on the greatest of rides. One memorable trail was the "Cliffhanger". This challenging run climbs up from a canyon road , over several rocky technical steps, to a shear canyon wall climbing up to a panoramic vista. Along the canyon wall are some tricky, rocky steps. While not unlike some technical trails back in the Canadian shield, the distinction of a near 2,000 ft shear drop to the side definitely added a new dimension to the experience! Visions of Wile E. Coyote falling through seven layers of cloud entered my mind, and with no "ACME" parachutes Cliffhanger Trail - Moab, Utah on our backs, prudence was required. Way down at the bottom of the canyon, looking like an aerial photograph was our original road, snaking its way along the valley floor. As always, photos simply don't do justice to the view. Back down to our starting point we return to the canyon road and eventually turn off onto a jeep trail and then a wash, which went on for miles. It snaked along, with big loamy bermed-up corners more akin to a motocross track. The trail crisscrosses a river system many times, before climbing up yet another canyon wall. Unfortunately, the trail here has been hidden from the sun by the canyon walls and is partly snow covered with one quite icy area to negotiate. Several bikes harmlessly fall over as "corner marshals" rush to slow down the following machines. I ride out a speedwaystyle full lock slide until straightening up in snow covered gravel. The drop-off below is "only" a few hundred feet this time, beautiful but hardly confidence inspiring under the circumstances. Fortunately, the trail and canyon wall turns back into the sun, exposing dirt once again and allowing good traction for the final climb up to the top. Having reached the last leg of the trail, and with the sun, fuel levels and temperatures dropping, we work our way out to the paved highway and a very cold run back to Moab. That is except for one group of "keeners" on the ride who decide to take the long way home and nearly spend a freezing night in the canyon with a drowned bike and a soaked rider! Fortunately, after repeated attempts the Honda U-boat eventually fires up, returning to town just at dark, with gray foam lubricating the engine internals. Much discussion took place about the relative
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merits of the two riding areas we visited on this trip, with varying opinions on which was "better", more fun, etc. The truth is, like comparing the various bikes on the ride, one excels in one area and vice versa. It all depends on the qualities one is looking for. Weather wise, Nevada seems to guarantee a better window for midwinter escapes. Add cheap accommodations, meals and near endless, traffic free, real estate and it's hard to beat. You can literally ride as far as you can carry gas. Moab offers picture postcard scenery, famous trails, and a quaint touristy "destination" town. Later in the season, as the jeep Safaris and hordes or mountain bikers move in, some of that "quaintness" perhaps could be lost, and as we Paul Behncke - Slickrock Trail discovered, winter season riding opportunities can be limited. Of course, by then the Lasalle mountains and many trails far from tourist "trail" will also beckon. If you've never gone and get a chance to ride either area, take it. A reliable, licensed and insured enduro bike with good range is a starting point. Join an existing tour or hook with your own group. With our US riding counterparts embroiled in a seemingly endless land use tug-of-war, there sadly are no guarantees on what will be available in five or ten years. Comments On This Article?
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