S T Y L E
G U I D E
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2 1. Coat details: Formal: 1.1 Three Button Morning coat 1.1.1 Notched Lapel 1.1.2 Flap pockets 1.1.3 Outside breast pocket + flap 1.1.4 Outside ticket + flap 1.1.5 Check 1.2 Double Breasted Three Button Show Six Jacket 1.2.1 Peak Lapel 1.2.1 Flap pockets 1.2.2 Outside breast pocket 1.3 Evening Dress Tails 1.3.1 Peak Lapel 1.4 One Button Dinner jacket 1.4.1 Peak Lapel 1.4.2 Silk facing 1.4.3 Jetted pockets 1.5 Evening Dress Tails 1.5.1 Peak Lapel 1.5.2 Three button cuffs 1.6 Evening Dress Tails 1.6.1 Shawl Lapel 1.7 Evening Dress Tails 1.7.1 Peak Lapels 1.7.2 Four button cuffs 1.8 One Button Single Breasted Dinner Jacket 1.8.1 Jetted pockets 1.9 Overcoat 1.9.1 Notched lapel 1.9.2 Flap pockets 1.9.3 Fly Front Button 1.10 Button Four Overcoat 1.10.1 Notched lapel 1.11 Raglan 1.11.1 Button Three Show Six Double breasted Overcoat
Contents Page(s): 1.11.2 Long peak lapel 1.11.3 Ulster Collar 1.12 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.12.1 Peak lapel 1.12.2 Outside breast pocket 1.13 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.13.1 Flap pockets + Outside breast pocket 1.14 Patch Pocket Overcoat 1.14.1 Button three Double breasted 1.14.2 Cross pockets + Flaps 1.14.3 Outside breast pocket + Flap 1.15 Raglan II 1.15.1 Fly Front 1.15.2 Flap pockets 1.16 Raglan III 1.16.1 Single breasted 1.16.2 Waterproof 1.16.3 Outside patch pockets + Flaps 1.17 Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Chesterfield Overcoat 1.17.1 Flap pockets 1.17.2 Velvet collar 1.18 Chesterfield Overcoat 1.18.1 Fly front 1.18.2 Velvet collar 1.19 Check Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Overcoat 1.19.1 Flap pockets + Outside breast + Ticket pocket 1.20 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.20.1 Flap pockets + Outside
breast pocket 1.21 Single Breasted Button Three Overcoat 1.21.1 Inverted pleats 1.21.2 Velvet collar 1.22 Single Breasted Button Four Business Suit 1.22.2 Stripe 1.22.3 Notched lapel 1.22.4 Flap pocket 1.23 Single Breasted Button Three Business Suit 1.23.1 Notched lapel 1.23.1 Flap pockets 1.24 Single Breasted Button Three Business Suit 1.24.1 Jetted pockets 1.24.2 Notched lapel 1.25 Double Breasted Button Two Show Six Business Suit 1.25.2 Flap pockets + Outside breast pocket 1.26 Double breasted Button Two Show Four Business Suit 1.26.1 Stripe Blazers / Jackets: 1.27 Cricket Blazer 1.27.1 Double breasted Button Two Show Four 1.27.2 Peak lapel 1.28 Single Breasted Button One Sport Blazer 1.28.1 Three Patch pockets 1.28.2 Notched lapel 1.29 Double breasted Two Button Show Four Lounge Suit 1.29.1 Stripe 1.30 Lightweight Jacket
1.30.1 Blue flannel 1.30.2 Four Patch pockets 1.30.3 Long roll 1.31 Single breasted Linen suit 1.32.1 Four patch pockets 1.33 Double Breasted Button Two Show Four White Jacket 1.33.1 Peak lapel 1.34 High Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Smoking Jacket 1.34.1 Quilting 1.34.2 Braiding 1.35 Double Breasted Button Four Show Eight Dressing Gown 1.35.1 Patch Pockets Shooting / Hunting: 1.36 Sporting Suit 1.36.1 Large outside patch pockets w/flaps (hole & button) 1.36.2 Patch ticket pocket 1.37 Fly Front Overcoat 1.37.1 Large Patch pockets W/ Hole & Button 1.38 Single Breasted Button Four Shooting Suit W/ Belt 1.38.1 Inverted pleats 1.38.2 Gun shoulder pads 1.38.3 Large flap pockets 1.39 Single Breasted Button Three Shooting Jacket 1.39.1 Notched lapel 1.39.2 Flap pockets + Outside breast W/ flap 1.40 Single Breasted Button Three Shooting Jacket 1.40.1 Three Patch pockets 1.41 Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Shooting Jacket
1.41.1 Four patch pockets + Flaps 1.42 Single Breasted Button Three Country Lounge Suit 1.42.1 Inverted Front pleats 1.42.2 Waist Belt + Buttons 1.43 Single Breasted Button Three Country Lounge Suit II 1.43.1 Four patch pockets + Flaps 1.43.2 Waist Belt 2. Vest details: 2.1 Button Four U Shape Vest 2.1.1 Single breasted 2.1.2 Peak lapel 2.2 Single Breasted V Shaped Vest 2.2.1 Long points 2.3 Single Breasted Button Four V Shape Vest 2.3.2 White silk 2.3.3 Long points 2.4 Single Breasted Button Four U Shape Vest 2.4.1 Black 2.5 No lapel Vest 2.5.1 Six buttons 2.5.2 Straight bottom 2.4 No lapel Vest II 2.4.1 Five buttons 3. Trouser details: 3.1 Permanent turn up 3.2 Pinch Pleat Trouser 3.3 Stripe Trousers 3.3.1 Soft grey 3.4 Flannel trousers 3.5 Cashmere trousers 3.5.1 Stripe 3.5.2 Flat front 3.6 Pinch pleat (REV)
3 3.6.1 Side pockets 3.6.2 Permanent Turn up 3.7 Dinner suit trousers 3.7.1 Silk Braid 3.8 Check trousers 3.8.1 Permanent Turn up 4. Ladies Tailoring: 4.1 Single Breasted Button Five Shooting Jacket 4.1.2 Checked + Waist Belt 4.2 Single Breasted Button Four Country Jacket 4.2.1 Tweed
Contents Page(s): 4.1.2 Patch pockets W/ Buttons 4.3 Single Breasted Button Two Country Dress 4.3.1 Quilted 4.3.2 Patch pockets + buttons 4.3.3 Belt 4.4 Single Breasted Button Three 4.5 Single Breasted Button Three 4.5.1 Sloped Flap pockets 4.5.2 Standard Loose Fitting Skirt 4.6 Ladies Raglan 4.6.1 Hole & button tab 4.6.2 Gauntlet cuffs 4.7 Double Breasted V Shaped Collar Jacket
4.7.1 Buttons Six (Double Sets) 4.7.2 Pointed Cuffs 4.8 Promenade costume 4.8.1 Deep Rolling Revers 4.8.2 Ornamental Cuffs 4.9 D.B. Button Four Shows Eight Motor coat 4.9.1 Patch pockets + Flaps 4.9.2 Lightweight + Waterproof 4.10 Single Breasted Button Four Motor Coat 4.10.1 Step Collar 4.10.2 Patch pockets + Flaps 4.11 Double Breasted Button Four Jacket
4.11.1 Deep turn down collar 4.11.2 Deep gauntlet cuffs 4.12 Double Breasted Button Three Shows Six 4.12.1 Deep gauntlet cuffs 4.13 Double Breasted Bolero Costume 4.13.1 Roll collar 4.13.2 Shoulder Cape 4.13.3 Bell Shape Cuffs 4.14 Single Breasted Button 7 Side-Pleated Costume 4.14.1 Belt W/ Buttons 4.14.2 Inverted Pleat Skirt
Source of Imagery: British Library Main Catalogue (The West End Gazette of Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Fashions - 1913 & 14) http://explore.bl.uk/primo_library/libweb/action/display.do?tabs=moreTab&ct=display&fn=search&doc=BLL01013913051&indx=3&recIds=BLL01013913051&recIdxs=2&elementId=2&render Mode=poppedOut&displayMode=full&frbrVersion=&frbg=&&vl(488279563UI0)=any&dscnt=0&scp.scps=scope%3A%28BLCONTENT%29&tb=t&vid=BLVU1&mode=Basic&srt=rank&tab=loc al_tab&dum=true&vl(freeText0)=west%20end%20gazette&dstmp=1531742793723 (The West End Gazette of Fashions 1916, 1918, 1920, 1924, 1928 & 1929) http://explore.bl.uk/primo_library/libweb/action/display.do?tabs=moreTab&ct=display&fn=search&doc=BLL01013913051&indx=3&recIds=BLL01013913051&recIdxs=2&elementId=2&render Mode=poppedOut&displayMode=full&frbrVersion=&frbg=&&vl(488279563UI0)=any&dscnt=0&scp.scps=scope%3A%28BLCONTENT%29&tb=t&vid=BLVU1&mode=Basic&srt=rank&tab=loc al_tab&dum=true&vl(freeText0)=west%20end%20gazette&dstmp=1531742793723
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.1 Three Button Morning coat 1.1.1 Notched Lapel 1.1.2 Flap pockets 1.1.3 Outside breast pocket + flap 1.1.4 Outside ticket + flap 1.1.5 Check
Figure 2 (Right) 1.2 Double Breasted Three Button Show Six Jacket 1.2.1 Peak Lapel 1.2.1 Flap pockets 1.2.2 Outside breast pocket
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.3 Evening Dress Tails 1.3.1 Peak Lapel Figure 2 (Right) 1.4 One Button Dinner jacket 1.4.1 Peak Lapel 1.4.2 Silk facing 1.4.3 Jetted pockets
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 1.5 Evening Dress Tails 1.5.1 Peak Lapel 1.5.2 Three button cuffs Figure 2 (Right) 1.6 Evening Dress Tails 1.6.1 Shawl Lapel
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1928 1.7 Evening Dress Tails 1.7.1 Peak Lapels 1.7.2 Four button cuffs Figure 2 (Right) 1.8 One Button Single Breasted Dinner Jacket 1.8.1 Jetted pockets
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.9 Overcoat 1.9.1 Notched lapel 1.9.2 Flap pockets 1.9.3 Fly Front Button Figure 2 (Right) 1.10 Button Four Overcoat 1.10.1 Notched lapel
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.11 Raglan 1.11.1 Button Three Show Six Double breasted Overcoat 1.11.2 Long peak lapel 1.11.3 Ulster Collar Figure 2 (Right) 1.12 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.12.1 Peak lapel 1.12.2 Outside breast pocket
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.13 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.13.1 Flap pockets + Outside breast pocket Figure 2 (Right) 1.14 Patch Pocket Overcoat 1.14.1 Button three Double breasted 1.14.2 Cross pockets + Flaps 1.14.3 Outside breast pocket + Flap
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.15 Raglan II 1.15.1 Fly Front 1.15.2 Flap pockets Figure 2 (Right) 1.16 Raglan III 1.16.1 Single breasted 1.16.2 Waterproof 1.16.3 Outside patch pockets + Flaps
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.17 Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Chesterfield Overcoat 1.17.1 Flap pockets 1.17.2 Velvet collar Figure 2 (Right) 1.18 Chesterfield Overcoat 1.18.1 Fly front 1.18.2 Velvet collar
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1920 1.19 Check Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Overcoat 1.19.1 Flap pockets + Outside breast + Ticket pocket Figure 2 (Right) 1.20 Double Breasted Fly Front Overcoat 1.20.1 Flap pockets + Outside breast pocket
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 - 1920 1.21 Single Breasted Button Three Overcoat 1.21.1 Inverted pleats 1.21.2 Velvet collar
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.22 Single Breasted Button Four Business Suit 1.22.2 Stripe 1.22.3 Notched lapel 1.22.4 Flap pocket Figure 2 (Right) 1.23 Single Breasted Button Three Business Suit 1.23.1 Notched lapel 1.23.1 Flap pockets
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 (Left) - 1929 1.24 Single Breasted Button Three Business Suit 1.24.1 Jetted pockets 1.24.2 Notched lapel Figure 2 (Right) 1.25 Double Breasted Button Two Show Six Business Suit 1.25.2 Flap pockets + Outside breast pocket
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1. Coat details: Formal
Figure 1 - 1924 1.26 Double breasted Button Two Show Four Business Suit 1.26.1 Stripe
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1. Coat details: Blazers / Jackets
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.27 Cricket Blazer 1.27.1 Double breasted Button Two Show Four 1.27.2 Peak lapel Figure 2 (Right) 1.28 Single Breasted Button One Sports Blazer 1.28.1 Three Patch pockets 1.28.2 Notched lapel
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1. Coat details: Blazers / Jackets
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.29 Double breasted Button Two Show Four Lounge Suit 1.29.1 Stripe Figure 2 (Right) 1.30 Lightweight Jacket 1.30.1 Blue flannel 1.30.2 Four Patch pockets 1.30.3 Long roll
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1. Coat details: Blazers / Jackets
Figure 1 (Left) - 1928 1.31 Single breasted Linen suit 1.32.1 Four patch pockets Figure 2 (Right) 1.33 Double Breasted Button Two Show Four White Jacket 1.33.1 Peak lapel
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1. Coat details: Blazers / Jackets
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.34 High Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Smoking Jacket 1.34.1 Quilting 1.34.2 Braiding Figure 2 (Right) 1.35 Double Breasted Button Four Show Eight Dressing Gown 1.35.1 Patch Pockets
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1. Coat details: Shooting / Hunting
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 1.36 Sporting Suit 1.36.1 Large outside patch pockets w/flaps (hole & button) 1.36.2 Patch ticket pocket Figure 2 (Right) 1.37 Fly Front Overcoat 1.37.1 Large Patch pockets W/ Hole & Button
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1. Coat details: Shooting / Hunting
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 1.38 Single Breasted Button Four Shooting Suit W/ Belt 1.38.1 Inverted pleats 1.38.2 Gun shoulder pads 1.38.3 Large flap pockets Figure 2 (Right) 1.39 Single Breasted Button Three Shooting Jacket 1.39.1 Notched lapel 1.39.2 Flap pockets + Outside breast W/ flap
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1. Coat details: Shooting / Hunting
Figure 1 (Left) - 1928 1.40 Single Breasted Button Three Shooting Jacket 1.40.1 Three Patch pockets
Figure 2 (Right) 1.41 Double Breasted Button Three Show Six Shooting Jacket 1.41.1 Four patch pockets + Flaps
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1. Coat details: Shooting / Hunting
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 1.42 Single Breasted Button Three Country Lounge Suit 1.42.1 Inverted Front pleats 1.42.2 Waist Belt + Buttons Figure 2 (Right) 1.43 Single Breasted Button Three Country Lounge Suit II 1.43.1 Four patch pockets + Flaps 1.43.2 Waist Belt
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2. Vest Details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 2.1 Button Four U Shape Vest 2.1.1 Single breasted 2.1.2 Peak lapel Figure 2 (Right) 2.2 Single Breasted V Shaped Vest 2.2.1 Long points
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2. Vest Details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 2.3 Single Breasted Button Four V Shape Vest 2.3.2 White silk 2.3.3 Long points Figure 2 (Right) 2.4 Single Breasted Button Four U Shape Vest 2.4.1 Black
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2. Vest Details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 2.5 No lapel Vest 2.5.1 Six buttons 2.5.2 Straight bottom
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2. Vest Details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1920 2.4 No lapel Vest II 2.4.1 Five buttons
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3. Trouser details
Figures 1 + 2 - 1914 3.1 Permanent turn up
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3. Trouser details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1914 3.2 Pinch Pleat Trouser Figure 2 (Right) 3.3 Stripe Trousers 3.3.1 Soft grey
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3. Trouser details
Figure 2 (Right) - 1914 3.4 Flannel trousers
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3. Trouser details
Figure 2 (Right) - 1913 3.5 Cashmere trousers 3.5.1 Stripe 3.5.2 Flat front
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3. Trouser details
Figure 1 (Left) - 1929 3.6 Pinch pleat (REV) 3.6.1 Side pockets 3.6.2 Permanent Turn up
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3. Trouser details
Figures 1 + 2 - 1918 3.7 Dinner suit trousers 3.7.1 Silk Braid
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3. Trouser details
Figure 1 - 1924 3.8 Check trousers 3.8.1 Permanent Turn up
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 4.1 Single Breasted Button Five Shooting Jacket 4.1.2 Checked + Waist Belt Figure 2 (Right) 4.2 Single Breasted Button Four Country Jacket 4.2.1 Tweed 4.1.2 Patch pockets W/ Buttons
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1913 4.3 Single Breasted Button Two Country Dress 4.3.1 Quilted 4.3.2 Patch pockets + buttons 4.3.3 Belt Figure 2 (Right) 4.4 Single Breasted Button Three
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 4.5 Single Breasted Button Three 4.5.1 Sloped Flap pockets 4.5.2 Standard Loose Fitting Skirt Figure 2 (Right) 4.6 Ladies Raglan 4.6.1 Hole & button tab 4.6.2 Gauntlet cuffs
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 4.7 Double Breasted V Shaped Collar Jacket 4.7.1 Buttons Six (Double Sets) 4.7.2 Pointed Cuffs Figure 2 (Right) 4.8 Promenade costume 4.8.1 Deep Rolling Revers 4.8.2 Ornamental Cuffs
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 4.9 D.B. Button Four Shows Eight Motor coat 4.9.1 Patch pockets + Flaps 4.9.2 Lightweight + Waterproof Figure 2 (Right) 4.10 Single Breasted Button Four Motor Coat 4.10.1 Step Collar 4.10.2 Patch pockets + Flaps
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 4.11 Double Breasted Button Four Jacket 4.11.1 Deep turn down collar 4.11.2 Deep gauntlet cuffs Figure 2 (Right) 4.12 Double Breasted Button Three Shows Six 4.12.1 Deep gauntlet cuffs
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4. Ladies Tailoring
Figure 1 (Left) - 1916 4.13 Double Breasted Bolero Costume 4.13.1 Roll collar 4.13.2 Shoulder Cape 4.13.3 Bell Shape Cuffs Figure 2 (Right) 4.14 Single Breasted Button 7 Side-Pleated Costume 4.14.1 Belt W/ Buttons 4.14.2 Inverted Pleat Skirt
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