Viennese Whirl

The fi rst glance of Schloss Ebreichsdorf, towering above the small town of the same name, reminds you of a palace in a fairy tale.

In this far eastern area of Austria it is possible to drive across miles of fl at plains and open skies without seeing anything more than an occasional farm building – and so the sight of such an important and ancient building is a surprise. For anyone who yearns for the traditional hospitality of polo together with the charm of an 800-year-old castle and beautiful landscape, plus sophisticated après polo entertainment, Ebreichsdorf is the answer.

Baron Richard Drasche has run the polo club from his ancestral family home for 15 years, and it is very much an enterprise in which he takes huge pride. He is also an active participant, playing in many of the tournaments, alongside his two daughters, Nadine and Valerie. e club, on the outskirts of Vienna, was founded in 1991 when the park was remodelled, with ponds and trees making way for polo fi elds. Today, it is one of the most beautiful clubs in Europe.

Richard had invited me to come and play. Not only that, but he asked me to share a team in the 12-goal tournament. Santiago Gaztambide, who plays with me in the 12-goal, was sceptical because neither he nor I had heard of Ebreichsdorf.

We both sent fi ve horses along with two grooms for a two-day journey by truck with Martin Richmond. It was decided that Austria’s Ebreichsdorf club is a reminder of polo from a different era. You can dance until dawn and then enjoy exciting action in stunning surroundings. Emma Treichl packs her dancing shoes

Main picture: Baron Richard Drasche dances with Emma Treichl. Above: Sal. Oppenheim team in action against Cartier. Below left: Victorious Knize team, l. to r., Martin Orozco, Horacio Llorente, Sponsor Rudolf Niedersüß of tailors Knize, Gerhard Hermann; Tilman Kraus, and their children.

the journey would be uninterrupted, except for feeding and watering. e horses were in excellent shape when we arrived fi ve days later, ready for our fi rst match. e 12-goal tournament takes place over two consecutive weekends and is played on the Friday, Saturday and Sunday. is enabled us to return to England during the intervening week. e club very generously off ered us free stabling and accommodation for the grooms, all of which was a stone’s throw from the castle and grounds. As with almost any polo club around the world, there is a strong Argentine presence, at least two pros and eight or nine Argentine grooms. Esteban Panelo (4 goals), his four children and dynamic wife Toria, were very much in evidence. Esteban is polo manager. Toria’s role is less welldefi ned but it includes organising mass for all the Argentines every week in Spanish at the castle chapel.

During the day, we were either playing polo, stick and balling, or watching matches. Delicious food and ice cold beers are served from a marquee next to the two grounds. Estebans’ s son gave a running commentary in heavily accented English during play, while salsa music played between chukkas. e whole event had a festive atmosphere.

From my bedroom window I could see the polo grounds below, just beyond the moat, the landscaped park and polo fi elds, framed by a fan of tall trees. We had been forewarned by the club that there would be a number of functions to attend and that suitable attire must at all costs be worn. Santiago rushed off to Midhurst to rent a dinner jacket and I dragged a groaning suitcase full of everything from ‘smart casual’ to’ elegant’ , ‘black tie’ and for the fi nal what can only be described as ‘Ascot’ minus the tails and top hats.

We were wined and dined in sumptuous surroundings; we were entertained by jazz singers at an asado, an entire band the size of Glen Miller’s played swing, and we were treated to the sight of couples performing rock ’ n ’ roll. Finally at 2.30am, we crawled into bed and played at 10 am the next day, the ultimate test of anyone ’s polo skills.

‘ e Sal. Oppenheim Cup may not match the high technical level of some of the international high-goal games but the magnifi cent setting of the castle creates an absolutely unique experience,’ said Dr Bernhard Ramsauer, chief executive offi cer of Sal. Oppenheim Austria. ‘It has become a highlight of the summer season.’

At the fi nal, about 1,000 people showed up for lunch in the marquee. I was sandwiched between the Argentine and American ambassadors and everyone was dressed in all their fi nery. ere was much eating, drinking and general socialising as the polo ensued. Sadly, we were not in either fi nal, but I had the pleasure of parading around the grounds with the other seven teams.

Ebreichsdorf is a unique treasure from the past, almost an endangered species of polo. And long may it continue. ■