At home on the range

A rgentina has a hugely diverse landscape, which ranges from the beautiful snow-capped mountains in its south to the incredible Iguazu Falls in its subtropical north. But one common passion that unites the length and breadth of the eighth-largest country in the world is polo.

The Argentine culture is dedicated to horses and it is still common for the local farmers – or ‘gauchos’ – to use the native Criollo ponies to work on the cattle farms and as a form of transport to go about their daily chores. The vast areas of open countryside give rise to an abundance of ponies, and thus many children are brought up in the saddle, which goes some way to explain why there are so many talented polo players. This availability of horses, together with plenty of fat land and good weather, makes it the perfect setting to play polo. Add to that the fact that it is home to the world’s top professionals of the moment, such as the Pieres brothers and Adolfo Cambiaso, that many polo dynasties have huge breeding organisations and that it hosts the highest-rated tournament in the world, the A rgentine Open, and it’s not surprising foreign players seek their own little piece of that magic by holidaying in A rgentina.

The universal draw for any polo enthusiast during the dreary British winter months is the chance to escape to glorious sunshine plus an endless array of ponies and skilled professionals with which to practise. And the experience can easily become a mini-adventure for the whole family, because there are many things to enjoy while in A rgentina as well as polo.

For those looking to unwind, the laid-back atmosphere and obligatory afternoon siestas offer a different pace of life. The peaceful countryside beckons you to take a stroll under towering eucalyptus trees while admiring the unusual local wildlife – iguanas, armadillos and colourful parakeets. For the adventurous, there are plenty of outdoor activities, while

Est ancia Don Manuel’s guests can st ick-and-ball, t ake clinics and pract ise ad lib in two wooden-horse hit t ing cages

those interested in history will enjoy Buenos Aires, which also has great nightlife and shopping opportunities. Food lovers, meanwhile, can indulge in some of the world’s best beef, which is delicious barbecued asado -style, over a traditional wood fre.

There are many variations on the guest estancia, or ranch, that welcome foreigners to sample these delights alongside polo. Some offer a more traditional experience and cater specifcally for beginners, while others provide the advanced player with more of a challenge and the chance to indulge in a full schedule of fast polo to improve their skills and understanding of the game.

Estancia Don Manuel is an example of a Criollo ranch that has the ideal set-up for both beginners and competent low-goal players to have fun in an atmosphere the whole family can enjoy. Situated in Cañuelas, only 25 minutes from the airport, this idyllic retreat offers all the usual creature comforts – wi-f, pool, gym and spa treatments, as well as activities to keep the most energetic guests entertained, such as tennis, shooting, and trips to tourist attractions in Buenos Aires. Private tango lessons can even be arranged. For those who want to dig deeper into the Argentine culture, the estancia offers trail-riding on ponies sporting traditional Ricardo sheepskin saddles, and carriage rides to the famous colonial estancia La Caledonia. This is where dulce de leche, the delicious condensed-milk confection now widely used throughout Argentina in pastries and desserts, was frst made.

Polo-playing guests can stick-and-ball each morning, take clinics and practise ad lib in two wooden-horse hitting cages. As well as its afternoon chukkas, the estancia frequently holds 8 –10 goal tournaments in which guests can take part. It also offers lessons in pato, the Argentine national sport, which is similar to horse ball. Guests can take part in pato tournaments on one of two special felds. Cambiaso’s ranch is only a fve-minute drive away and a common attraction for newcomers. During the high season, practices are arranged on weekend mornings, so everyone can watch the impressive Argentine Open games at Palermo in the afternoon.

One of Don Manuel’s attractions is its friendly atmosphere, which is down to the host, Emiliano Blanco. He goes out of his way to make everyone feel at home, offering a personal pick-up from the airport, escorting his guests to mallet-and-tack stores and always ensuring they are having a good time.

The more advanced polo lover looking to push their skills to the limit should opt for an estancia such as La Aguada. A family-owned farm, this stunning ranch, situated in 270 acres of rolling countryside, belongs to the famous Novillo Astrada family. It is located 70km from Buenos Aires in an area called Open Door, yet close to the action during the peak season, with easy access to the games at Palermo. With 250

horses in training, fve polo felds and two stick-and-ball felds, it is not only set up to host guests, but it is the base where the Novillo Astrada brothers prepare their horses and practise for the Triple Crown tournaments. Guests can gain a rare insight into the teams’ backstage preparations for the Argentine Open, and one of the unique experiences of staying here is the chance to have instruction with the Novillo Astradas and be included in practices with high-goal professionals.

La Aguada offers guests the choice of two smart, fully staffed guest houses. Facilities include a pool, tennis court and football feld. Guests can enjoy massages, yoga classes and rides through the estancia, or take a tour of Buenos Aires or local traditional towns such as San Antonio de Areco. Balloon fights or helicopter rides can even be arranged for those wanting to get a bird’s-eye view. La Aguada also runs as a polo club and hosts several high-level tournaments – often up to 20 goals – throughout the season, in which more advanced players are welcome to take part.

For a completely different experience, if you’re prepared to take a two-and-a-half-hour internal fight further into the depths of Argentina, head to El Desafío – the place for those seeking outdoor adventure. The manager, resident 4-goal professional Andrés ‘El Ruso’ Sorzana, spent many years playing in the UK and now runs this new resort that is not only dedicated to its guests’ enjoyment, but also the conservation of the local habitat.

Offering the irresistible chance to play polo against the breathtaking backdrop of the Andes, this exquisite mountain retreat in the south is set in 600 hectares of private nature reserve in Patagonia. It offers high-end polo, with two felds designed by the renowned Alejandro Battro and clinics run by El Ruso. And although the polo week only includes the playing of fun and fast 8 –12-goal chukkas, guests are also welcome to enter tournaments, which run from December to April. A boutique lodge hotel with spa makes a relaxing base for guests, and the resort also has one of the world’s best golf courses and two clubhouses: one for the golf and another for the polo. As with all the other estancias, polo runs here from the spring, October to December, with a second season running from January to April. During the winter months, the mountain vista is covered with snow and very picturesque.

El Desafío is fve minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from downtown San Martin and Junín de los Andes, but unrivalled when it comes to stunning scenery in which to enjoy pony-trekking, cycling, mountaineering, fy-fshing and any number of other outdoor sports. The wild countryside, with its large, undulating open spaces, rivers and lakes can have a spellbinding effect, lending a sense of total freedom and awe at the country’s natural beauty. The resort was designed as a retreat for people wanting to share their common interest

Opposite, clockwise from top left Horses at Don Manuel estancia sport traditional sheepskin saddles for trail rides; rounding up the ponies for guests’ daily practices; the ranch’s tranquil setting positively demands guests relax This page, below from left Don Manuel estancia ofers tuition in pato, the Argentine national sport, too; a match in full fow at the El Desafío resort