TSHEPISO - JEWELLERY DESIGNER

Tshepiso, the company’s namesake, metalsmith, and founder, studied fine art and graduated from Witwatersrand University in Johannesburg, but has always had a passion for fashion. Their foray into the world of jewellery was the result of a clash of their passions for fashion and art. Tshepiso enrolled in Alchimia Contemporary Jewellery School in Florence, Italy, to pursue their passion for art and fashion, and graduated in 2019.

Tshepiso Jewellery is a jewellery line dedicated to creating pieces inspired by everyday life, art, and memories. To achieve a delicate balance of weight and shape, the crafting process frequently involves building up and tearing down work.

You studied Fine Arts at Wits University in Johannesburg, South Africa, but your love for fashion, especially jewellery design, led you to a few years in Italy. Tell us about this. Growing up, I had always loved fashion; in fact, I wanted to be a fashion designer. Every week I tuned into Project Runway in awe of their creations and took to sketching my dream designs any moment I could. My interest in fashion design waned through my teen years, and I chose the fine art path instead. Whilst studying at Wits, I sort of felt out of place in my field in South Africa. Once I had graduated, I looked at doing something else that was still creative and came across a 2-year course on jewellery design in Italy. I took this as a sign from the universe and took the leap of faith.

When you’re working on a new line, where do you look for ideas? I don’t exactly follow the traditional way of creating collections; I like to build on the creations that already exist and play with the shape, weight, size and textures. A lot of what I create is influenced by my artistic background, particularly sculptural work, and I think that can be seen in the jewellery. I never really plan or sketch much; I’ll have an idea in my head and just go with it. I also consider how a piece will sit around the body, its limitations with weight and positioning.

Your entire collection is stunning. Which piece(s) in your collection do you take the most pride in, and why? I love every piece that I’ve created, but “between a rock and softer place” is one I take the most pride in because it’s a tricky piece to create; you always have to keep weight and balance in mind. I also adore ear cuffs and think they’re such an underrated piece of jewellery—they aren’t worn nearly enough.

“between a rock and softer place”, is one I take the most pride in because it’s a tricky piece to create, you always have to keep weight and balance in mind” - Tshepiso

Between a rock and a soft place

dug out the earth, worn between the softest of places. sterling silver made to order

When one wears your jewellery, how do you want them to feel? My jewellery is not delicate or perfect. It’s big, bold and leaning towards heavy. I want the wearer to feel empowered and unafraid of standing out from whatever crowd they find themselves in and embrace their flaws.

What part does sustainability play in your manufacturing process? It’s a bit of a one-person show, so pieces are usually made to order. Nothing is made in mass or for seasons; everything is made slowly and with consideration. When it came to launching your own line, what was your biggest fear? I never quite intended to launch the brand when I did. I had planned to do my Master’s and then see what I’d do with my life after. COVID-19 hit, and I found myself unable to do my Master’s, so I decided to launch a brand. My biggest fear was starting the brand; I didn’t even know where to begin. Luckily I had a good friend who had already had her brand (Monastery Jewellery) giving me invaluable advice and help. At the end of the day, every day is a learning curve for me, and I take each day as it comes.

What are some of the hurdles you face as a socially conscious entrepreneur? The challenges I face would perhaps be that items are made to order. We live in a day and age where everything is readily available; when consumers want things, they want them now. My jewellery can take up to a six week waiting period, but given that the item is handmade for you by a one man band , it’s well worth the wait.

What are some of your favourite materials to work with? I have a preference for colder looking metals, so my favourite material is silver by far; it’s an affordable metal that is easy to work with. I’ve also recently been experimenting with quartz which has been quite fun, and I hope to introduce it into my pieces soon. How does a jewellery designer elicit an emotional response to their jewellery, aside from using fundamental techniques? The creations that you make really must come from the heart; there has to be a willingness from the creator to be true to themselves and bear all. None of these jewellery pieces are perfect and expertly made; they come from mistakes, experimentation and openness to flaws.

What role do you believe social media has in today’s fashion? Social media plays a huge role in fashion; it has both pros and cons. The pros are that it spotlights emerging designers and designers that have been around for a long time and haven’t received any recognition. Social media can be a place where you can express yourself and find inspiration. Of course, the downside of it is an oversaturation of any industry.

Inbetween

inbtween a rock and a hard place tiny clusters for your fingers sterling silver ring

“It’s a bit of a one man show that I have going on so pieces are usually made to order. Nothing is made in mass or for seasons, everything is made slow and with consideration” - Tshepiso

What’s the one thing you would tell yourself if you could go back in time before starting your career? There isn’t anything I would tell myself. My career in jewellery started as a leap of faith, and everything building up to it has been hard work and a really strong support system.

What advice would you provide to aspiring designers who admire your work and want to pursue a design career? My advice would be to research, look up all the courses available to pursue a career in jewellery and seek funding if that’s possible. If studying isn’t an option, an apprenticeship with an experienced goldsmith is always a great place to start.

What can we expect from Tshepiso Jewellery in the future? I’m hoping to see my brand grow throughout South Africa as well as internationally. The future of my jewellery is to evolve into gender fluid pieces that are more body-conscious and play with how the body moves and looks. There is so much more to come, and I’m excited about the future of the brand.

Designer Tshepiso Creative Direction by Anthony Hinrichsen Photographed by Armand Dicker Photographic Assistant, Sibongile Mditshwa Makeup by Amy-Louise Tourell Hair by Patricia Ndeke & Mira Muamba Nails by Matthew Green Models, Yongama Mgqibela at Citizen at Boss Models