Fashion of Amsterdam

from I amsterdam City Guide SUMMER AUTUMN 2022

by amsterdam&partners

Up Front

6 | TEXT: VITA VAN DE SANDT

Nxt Museum’s new exhibition UFO – Unidentified Fluid Other explores the boundaries of our fashion identity through art and technology.

11 JUNE-JUNE 2023, NXTMUSEUM.COM

Amsterdam’s Fashion DNA

Amsterdam may not boast Paris’ international fashion shows or London’s famous brands (though there are a few not to miss!), but it does have a style all of its own.

Fashion, clothes, style: we are all involved in fashion, whether we want to be or not. What we wear not only refl ects ordinary facts, such as the local weather, but also reveals cultural information and, of course, our personalities. It takes a person to turn clothes into style. So what does that style look like in Amsterdam? Pay attention to the street and you’ll notice immediately that we are extremely practical people who put comfort fi rst. With bicycles being the main means of transport, you won’t see many pencil skirts around – although men in suits on bikes are a pretty common sight. Add our Calvinistic origins into the mix – dictating we prefer not to stand out too much – and you’ll see that plain and practical is what we’re all about. But within those cultural boundaries, there is still room for variation and experimentation. After all, we are also a liberal, innovative and curious bunch.

The tolerant city

Amsterdam’s reputation as a liberal place goes back to the 17th century. Immigrants from all over Europe (including philosophers such as Spinoza and Descartes) settled in Amsterdam, and freedom of expression was celebrated. Centuries later, the Dutch capital is still a free-spirited city in which the urban streetscape is constantly evolving thanks to its inhabitants. Immigrants throughout the ages have shaped and continue to

‘Amsterdammers never feel the pressure to care too much about fashion’

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8 | STYLE LEADER

shape our language, economy and fashion. The famous millstone collar that was introduced by the Spanish and can be seen in portraits by Frans Hals continues to inspire contemporary fashion designers such as Iris van Herpen, for example. In the late 1960s, a second liberal revolution came around. So-called provo’s (short for provocateurs) protested on the streets and hippies ruled Dam Square. Playfulness and freedom dominated these counter-culture movements while fashion designers such as Fong Leng – known for her dramatic and colourful long dresses – became iconic. Fast-forward 20 years and Amsterdam was a leading light in dance culture that quickly spread around the world. Nightlife encouraged people to express di erent versions of themselves, safe in the privacy of a club.

It was at the same time that the city hosted the world’s fi rst Gay Pride, with the extravagantly dressed participants of the canal parade as its highlight. Today, Amsterdam still embodies a tolerant and determined character that’s never afraid to make a statement. It’s not unusual to see men in heels and dresses or people sporting brightly coloured hair.

Fong Leng

The practical city

However extravagant and free they may be, Amsterdammers never feel the pressure to care too much about fashion. The sober attitude and sensible mindset that came from Calvinism (and the weather) prevail, and a ordability and wearability rule our day-to-day wear. And what says

‘practicality’ better than jeans? Amsterdam boasts one of the highest densi ties of homegrown denim companies in the world. Not only is it the birthplace of prominent denim labels such as G-Star RAW and Denham, but the European headquarters for global denim brands are also concentrated here. Labs and workshops dedicated to denim innovation such as The House of Denim, Denim City AMS and Denim Days contribute to making Amsterdam a hub for the denim industry. It only takes a quick look around to notice how much we love our denim, with all genders owning an average of fi ve pairs of jeans. Adriano Goldschmied, the cofounder of Italian denim label Diesel and nicknamed ‘the Godfather of denim’, once a rmed that ‘the Dutch have jeans in their blood’. Plain jeans, a sweater and sneakers are undoubtedly our preferred ‘fashion look’.

Streetwear

Zeedijk is the place to be if you are looking for unique streetwear, with Patta as one of the biggest shops on the list. It owns part of its success to the connection people feel with the brand. Patta means ‘shoe’ in Surinamese, a reference to the limited-edition sneakers they rst started selling. These days, they have their own in-house brand that is hugely popular. Another shop not to miss is The New Originals: performance wear for creatives, because ‘creatives are the new athletes’. Ever thought of buying a lavender suit in suede? Bonne Suits has got you covered with their ‘poor man’s suits’. A little out of the city centre Daily Paper (Bilderdijkstraat 131) combines the African heritage of its founders with a passion for contemporary fashion, resulting in vibrant streetwear. Something di erent is Maha (Vijzelstraat 129): clothes for women, but in the same style as their boyfriend’s.

The New Originals Gay Pride

Patta

Bonne Suits

Is fashion week dead? Amsterdam’s sustainable fashion museum Fashion for Good sheds light on the role of the international shows with their exhibition Fashion Week: A New Era.

20 MAY-OCTOBER, FASHIONFORGOOD.COM 9

The creative city

Amsterdam’s streetwear is all about comfort and practicality mixed with self-expression. Streetwear brands are on the rise, selling a lifestyle rather than just clothes. Instead of simply making a profi t, these companies tend to be fuelled by love, necessity, hard work and a clear vision. Brands such as Patta nurture community, collaboration and artistic expression with a ‘dream big’ motto that shows how anyone can wear a certain look and start a trend – or even a brand – of their own. Their head o ce in the Zeedijk area of the city centre is now an epicentre for the Amsterdam fashion industry. Once associated with drugs and prostitution, the street is now home to well-known international names such as Stüssy and Black Comme des Garçons as well as local brands Bonne Suits, SMIB and The New Originals. You’ll fi nd people proudly wearing logos, special-edition sneakers in bold colours, cross body bags, baggy hoodies and pants, and designer sunglasses. ››

Vintage hunting

As well as its vintage clothing markets, Amsterdam also has a wide variety of boutiques and kilo stores, where you pay based on weight. Secondhand shop chains Episode and Zipper have locations throughout the city, in the Nine Streets you’ll nd vintage gem Laura Dols, and on Haarlemmerstraat there’s Rumors Vintage and Betty Jane. If you are visiting the Albert Cuyp market, make sure to step behind the stalls and you’ll be surprised by the number of vintage shops. Close by there’s also Marbles Vintage, Penny Lane and Thrift Shop with their curated selections of designer items. And it doesn’t stop there: fashion retailer H&M will open a secondhand shop in Amsterdam Noord this year.

Laura Dols

Denim capital

Amsterdam is the proud jeans capital of the world. Tenue de Nîmes, a household name for high-end jeans on the Elandsgracht, Nudie Jeans in the Nine Streets with its sustainable denim, Denham’s premium jeans and Mick Keus with his custom- t reconstructions, were all born right here. And don’t forget all-time favourites G-Star RAW, Kuyichi and Kings Of Indigo. To learn more about denim, check out the workshop and upcycling facility Denim City (Hannie Dankbaarpassage 22), which also hosts an annual jeans festival. Get inspired and you might just nd your perfect pair of not-sonew jeans.

Episode

Waterlooplein

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10 | STYLE LEADER

Baskèts has a mission: to provide the Amsterdam sneaker scene with fashionable and exclusive sneakers, clothing and accessories.

ELANDSGRACHT 75, GERARD DOUSTRAAT 96

The sustainable city

A hub for sustainability, Amsterdam breathes innovative talent. Many fashion houses reuse, recycle and upcycle existing materials. Sustainability platform Fashion for Good strategically chose the city for its headquarters, as well as a museum committed to its climate-conscious message. Amsterdam is simultaneously home to several exceptional designers specialised in this area: Ronald van der Kemp is a pioneer of sustainable high fashion, Duran Lantink repurposes discarded luxury garments, Bas Kosters reuses textile waste, Karim Adduchi gained recognition with his orange peel silk dress, and Iris van Herpen is famous for her sculpted 3D-printed garments. Plenty of shops also o er sustainable clothing labels (check out the website cosh.eco for a helpful overview). Another big trend in Amsterdam is the love for vintage threads. Markets such as Waterlooplein, Noordermarkt and the monthly IJ-Hallen in Amsterdam Noord, as well as shops such as Kiloshop (where you pay for your fi nds by the kilo) and Penny Lane make Amsterdam a true vintage heaven. Racks full of quality leather jackets, secondhand jeans and old-school Adidas or Ralph Lauren, with the odd high-fashion item, mean you can spend hours on end rummaging for bargains. Walking around one of the many vintage markets or shops, be sure to pay attention to the other shoppers as well. You can spot every imaginable combination of styles and periods – from the Roaring Twenties to the glitzy Noughties – going beyond what’s cool or new.

The experimental city

Bas Kosters Amsterdam is undoubtedly a city of contrasts. Practicality may be Amsterdam’s middle name, but it is also an experimental city that’s curious about new things and is continuously developing. The younger generation is always on the lookout for what’s unique and unfamiliar, just as local brands keep innovating, Karim Adduchi collaborating and merging their individual collections rather than competing with one another. It seems that the freedom of expressing personal values and dressing how you like is deeply rooted in the city’s DNA. Ultimately, in Amsterdam it is never about being stylish or trendy, but about individuality. ››

Success brands

Amsterdam brands pay tribute to the city’s free spirit. Scotch & Soda celebrates the power of self-expression with bold prints. Unrestricted by rules and expectations (and underwires), Love Stories’ lingerie is known for its comfortable yet iconic mismatch bralettes. For innovative eyewear that is as fashionable as any garment, check out Ace & Tate. Meanwhile, Filling Pieces, which started out with just one premium sneaker at a fair price, now has a collection of sneakers for everyone. Likewise, Olaf Hussein began making his own jeans but has expanded to collections with modern looks and subtle statements. Then there is Stieglitz, bringing di erent worlds together and building a community, representing the strength of women through eclectic prints.