Madison County

An Iconic Iowa Paradise, Bridging Charm with Character

By Ann Thelen | Photos by Joseph L. Murphy

If the world-famous bridges of Madison County could talk, they would tell the stories of the farmers, innovators and builders who were the early settlers of this region. With its rolling hills and valleys, native grasses and botanical gardens, century farms and cultural landmarks, Madison County is a slice of iconic Iowa paradise. Locals are passionate about preserving the area’s charm and character.

Madison County is known for its covered bridges, which were built in the 19th century. Fame came to Madison County with the creation of Robert Waller’s best-selling novel, “The Bridges of Madison County” and subsequent movie of the same name, starring Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep.

“The covered bridges were built between 1868 and 1884 so farmers could cross the county's rivers and streams. Many of the builders of the bridges were farmers,” says Teddi Yaeger, tourism and marketing coordinator for the Madison County Chamber of Commerce. “Covering the bridges helped preserve the interior wooden trusses and floorboards, which deteriorated quickly in the severe weather of the Plains.”

After 1884, county supervisors ordered modern steel bridges as farming equipment grew more substantial. Over the years, most of Madison County's covered bridges were lost to floods, ice jams, fires, progress or willful destruction. With six of the original 19 bridges remaining, many steps have been taken to preserve these jewels of historical significance.

This south-central Iowa county boasts a plethora of indoor and outdoor attractions, arts and entertainment, anchored with a thriving agricultural community.

BRIDGING TO MODERN AGRICULTURE

In Madison County, 20% of the residents are employed by agriculture or ag-related industries. Nearly 1,000 farms blanket the countryside with 271,017 acres of farmland, which are home to soybeans, corn, pigs and cattle. In addition, the region is popular for growing grapes, with three wineries producing native Iowa wines.

In the county seat of Winterset, one of Rose Acre Farms’ Iowa locations is prospering. The company began as a family chicken farm in Indiana in the 1930s and has grown to become the second-largest egg producer in the U.S. and the largest U.S. egg producer that is family-owned. Today, Rose Acre Farms has 17 laying facilities in six states, and the company produces a wide range of shell eggs, specialty eggs and egg products for retail, food service and industrial sectors. The company excels with its commitment to small-town values, quality products and service – an ideal fit for Madison County.

Frostee’s on the Winterset square serves up ice cream, beef burgers and was nominated for the 2019 Best Breaded Pork Tenderloin Contest.

FLOWERS BLOOM AND FLOURISH

Located just 25 miles southwest of Des Moines, Groth’s Gardens and Greenhouses was established on the family’s Iowa century farm in 1993. Deb and Marvin Groth raise soybeans, corn and have a cow/calf operation. A former teacher, Deb began the business by growing fieldraised fall mums, pumpkins and ornamentals.

“After the farm crisis of the 1980s, we needed some supplemental income. We started with growing produce but quickly transitioned to flowers, and the greenhouse allowed more flexibility with our family,” Deb explains.

Today, Groth’s boasts more than 1,000 varieties of perennials and annuals, including their highly sought-after mums. Five large greenhouses and an outdoor nursery area are loaded with over 25,000 flowers and plants.

Around the square of the Winterset Courthouse District – which is on the National Register of Historic Places – 120 magnificent, massive and vibrant hanging baskets are Deb’s creations. Every spring, volunteers hang the Supertunias ® , colorfully named Vista Bubblegum, Silverberry and Fuschia. And unless there is one-half inch of rain, volunteers (including the mayor) water the baskets every day.

Nearby, Howell’s Greenhouse and Pumpkin Patch is a farm covering 800 acres. For years, the rolling farmland and pastures were used for growing corn, soybeans, pigs and cattle. In 1985, the family began raising flowers specifically for dried florals. Today, those flowers cover more than 5 acres, and guests delight in touring the gardens, as well as the greenhouse, gift shop and the upper floor of Howell’s 1910 Barn, where the flowers dry. From goat cuddling to goat yoga, hayrides and pumpkin patch visits, Howell’s is a fun, family destination throughout the year.

Howell's Greenhouse and Pumpkin Patch. Photo courtesy of Teddi Yaeger.

South of Winterset, the rich soil is a fertile ground for PepperHarrow’s blossoming business. Sitting above the Middle River Valley, Adam and Jennifer O’Neal’s 20-acre farm is home to their family and acres of cut flower gardens. From sunflowers to dahlias to lavender, their creations are bouquets of beauty. Their flowers can be found at the Downtown Des Moines’ Famers’ Market, Gateway Market, florists in the Des Moines area and in Midwest weddings.

Adam and Jennifer O'Neal of PepperHarrow Farm in Winterset.

“I inherited my grandmother’s love of flowers,” says Jennifer, who spent much of her childhood on her grandparents’ farm and in their garden. She would help her grandmother arrange flowers for competitions and events, soaking up the precious knowledge that traveled across a generation.

Adam, originally from Louisiana, fell in love with Madison County when he accompanied Jennifer to the Covered Bridge Festival, annually held in October. Students at the University of Colorado at the time, it wasn’t long after the couple married that they yearned to make Madison County home.

“Central Iowa got a grip on me,” Adam explains, who is a master gardener. “I was amazed at the soil and how fertile it is. We work hard to preserve the thriving ecosystem by using sustainable practices.”

PepperHarrow provides fresh-cut flower arrangements to a wide variety of customers in Central Iowa.

PepperHarrow provides fresh-cut flower arrangements to a wide variety of customers in Central Iowa.

STARS OF THE BIG SCREEN

John Wayne, Iowa’s very own Hollywood icon who was born in Winterset in 1907, can also take credit for elevating Madison County’s fame. Beyond movie star, “The Duke” was a farmer and spent time out on the range raising cattle and cotton. Although he farmed in Arizona, it was likely his Iowa roots that contributed to his passion for agriculture.

Since the John Wayne Birthplace Society was established in 1982, more than 1 million visitors from 50 states and 40 foreign countries have visited. The 6,100-square-foot John Wayne Birthplace & Museum is adjacent to the home, where visitors can see the largest diversified exhibit of John Wayne artifacts in existence.

John Wayne Birthplace & Museum

When George Clooney’s “The Monuments Men” hit the big screen in early 2014, Winterset was delighted to recognize a star from its history books. Clooney's character, Frank Stokes, was based on Winterset's own George Stout. Stout was a world-class expert of art preservation and restoration. His expertise was needed for reclaiming the thousands of pieces of artwork stolen by the Nazis across Europe. The George Stout Storybook Sculpture sits on the corner of Washington Street and First Avenue in Winterset, along the 82-mile Covered Bridges Scenic Byway.

On John Wayne Drive, the Iowa Theater’s vintage Art Deco marquee lights up Winterset’s beloved cultural icon. Before its glory days as an American cinema, the building was a onestory grocery and meat market, then a vaudeville playhouse in the early 1900s. Falling into disrepair over the decades, Marianne Fons of Winterset, and her daughter Rebecca, recently restored the theater to its former glory. From playing newly released box office hits to anniversary viewings of westerns starring Wayne, it’s a community treasure.

Iowa Theatre

NATURE GROWS HERE

Throughout the county, trails meander through tallgrass prairies, woodlands are carpeted with wildflowers and limestone ridges overlook stunning river valleys. Camping, biking, hiking and fishing are popular attractions.

Situated in Winterset City Park (along with the Cutler-Donahoe Bridge, one of the original covered bridges), Clark Tower was erected in 1926 as a memorial to the county’s first pioneer family, Caleb and Ruth Clark. Constructed of native limestone, it stands 25 feet high and offers a commanding view of the Middle River Valley below. It is reachable by car or via a 2-mile roundtrip hike from the trail entrance point and back.

Clark Tower in Winterset City Park. Photo courtesy of Teddi Yaeger.

In East Peru, a town with no stoplights, an apple tree sits in the middle of an Iowa hayfield. It’s a sprout of the original Red Delicious apple tree, which was discovered on Jesse Hiatt’s Madison County farm.

Photo courtesy of Teddi Yaeger.

Originally named the Hawkeye, it won a Stark Brothers’ competition where the judge declared it “delicious.”

“We’re proud that the iconic Red Delicious apple, which reigned as America’s favorite apple for more than 50 years, was first discovered on a farm in Madison County,” Yaeger says. According to the U.S. Apple Association, the Red Delicious remains as one of the 10 most popular apple varieties in the world.

With 350 sprawling acres in beautiful Van Meter, Bare Bison Ranch is a stunning spot for visitors. Tours allow visitors to experience this working farm up close and personal. Discover their operation, the care they take in every step of the farming process, and the power and beauty of bison – also called buffalo – on a guided tour.

Bare Bison Ranch in Van Meter. Photo courtesy of Teddi Yaeger.

Madison County has it all. Quaint small towns, colorful scenery and an abundance of natural beauty, with a glamorous touch of Hollywood draped around this Iowa destination.

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