An Iowa Cheese Tour

Farmers embrace a trifecta of being dairy farmers, crop growers and cheese producers.

By Ann Thelen | Photos by Michelle Mensing

Iowa native Grant Wood might be best known for his paintings depicting the rural Midwest, particularly American Gothic, but he’s also famous in the dairy industry for one particularly prophetic statement. “All the really good ideas I ever had, came to me while I was milking a cow,” Wood once said.

The historical origins of cheesemaking aren’t necessarily attributed to farmers’ long hours in milking parlors. However, there is likely a connection to modern-day dairy farmers using the twice-daily milking routines to think of ways to diversify their operations.

Today, Iowa ranks as one of the top 10 cheese-producing states in the U.S. For a state that leads in corn, soybeans, egg and pork production, it’s no surprise Iowa farmers have put their agricultural passion to work in creating another nutritious product.

Embrace Iowa cheese by taking a road trip to the beautiful farms of eastern Iowa and meeting three farm families who have found inspiration as cheesemakers. These farms proudly place a “Made in Iowa” stamp on fresh, delicious and sustainably produced dairy products. After all, the best cheese begins with the best milk!

Hinterland Dairy

Ralph and Colleen Krogmeier own and operate Hinterland Dairy in Donnellson.

Ralph and Colleen Krogmeier began milking cows in beautiful southeast Iowa in 1978. For the Krogmeiers, being dairy farmers is not just an occupation; it’s a way of life.

Today, the Krogmeier’s farm, production dairy facility and retail store sit on 400 acres of rolling hills, grassy pastures, and fields producing soybeans, corn and hay.

“For decades, my parents dreamed of doing some type of on-farm production with our dairy milk,” explains Shannon Krogmeier Wellman, the youngest of the couple’s three daughters and the only child to work full time on the farm. “Our vision for Hinterland Dairy was born in 2016 when we knew we either needed to grow our dairy farm or diversify to survive. The artisanal cheese movement was gaining momentum, and we thought it would be a good place to start.”

Shannon Krogmeier Wellman works full time on her family's dairy facility and retail store.

With 150 dairy cows, Hinterland Dairy produced its first batch of cheese in July 2019, and customers quickly discovered the unmistakable appeal of fresh cheese curds. “We’re a long way from Wisconsin, and a lot of our patrons had never tried fresh cheese curds. You know if cheese curds are fresh because they squeak for a week,” Shannon says.

The chemistry of the cheese is the reason only the freshest cheese curds squeak. As soon as they are made, the rennet in the cheese curds is still active and working. The calcium bonds are trying to stick together, and when your teeth break those bonds apart, it makes a squeaking sound.

To become a farmer-also-turnedcheesemaker, Ralph took classes at the University of Wisconsin and the Center for Dairy Research in Wisconsin, which is partly funded by Midwest Dairy. “Dad is our cheese scientist; I’ve learned a lot from him, along with doing my own reading and research,” Shannon adds.

Cheese is made every week on the farm, and from cows to fresh cheese, the entire process takes less than 12 hours. Wild Buffalo, Fiery Fiesta, Garlic and Herb, and Cheddar cheese curds satisfy every palate. In addition, a soft, spreadable Quark cheese with German origins works great on crackers or in recipes. The family’s Brooks Place is an aged, nutty and creamy Alpine cheddar and named for the Krogmeier’s first farm. Happy Jack is an American-Monterey Jack-style cheese, perfect for a cracker but shines in a grilled cheese.

Cheese is made every week at Hinterland Dairy, and from cows to fresh cheese, the entire process takes less than 12 hours.

“We grow the crops that feed the cows, milk the cows twice a day, and use that rich, creamy milk to make the best cheese,” Shannon says. “That’s what sustainability is all about.”

Visitors are welcome at the farm’s retail store, and products can also be purchased online, at markets and select local stores.

Hansen’s Dairy Farm

Jordan and Blake Hansen along with their daughter Reese and son Beckett.

In Hudson, seven generations of the Hansen family have grown up on the same farm that’s been in the family since 1864. The land is designated as an Iowa Heritage Farm, meaning the same family has owned it for 150 years.

In the early 2000s, all four sons of Jay and Jeanne Hansen were interested in returning to work on the family’s dairy farm. They added value to the milk by establishing an on-farm creamery. The first gallon of milk was processed in February 2004. Today, the sons – Brent, Brad, Blair and Blake – all play an integral role on the farm.

Boasting a kangaroo on the Hansen’s Dairy logo, the farm offers six flavors of cheese curds along with milk, heavy cream, butter and ice cream. The logo is symbolic of the six kangaroos that are part of the “farm family” and await visitors.

“Our cheese curds are mild white cheddar and some are flavored with Ranch, Bacon, Dill, Buffalo and Spicy Red Pepper seasonings,” explains Blake Hansen’s wife Jordan, who is also actively involved in the dairy farm’s operations. “We produce about 4 million pounds of milk annually and make about 30,000 pounds of cheese curds.”

The Hansens milk 150 cows with another 150 replacement heifers on the farm, operating a closed herd of registered Holsteins. Cows are milked twice each day, at 4 a.m. and 3:30 p.m.

“We have about 400 acres of crops, mostly corn, soybeans and hay,” Jordan explains. “Everything we grow is used as feed for the cows.” The Hansens focus their sustainability efforts on actionable steps, including crop rotation and contour farming with waterways. Manure from the cows is used as organic fertilizer to return vital nutrients to the soil. When the cows are getting milked, water is used to chill the milk (sealed in containers). Because the water remains clean and isn’t tainted, it goes back to the cows to drink.

The Hansens milk 150 cows twice a day, and all the crops grown on the farm are used as feed for the cows.

Hansen’s local dairy products are available online and in Hudson, Waterloo, Cedar Falls, Waverly, Cedar Rapids and Iowa City.

From April through October, tours are available for families, students and other groups to learn about dairy farming and milk processing (and interact with animals!).

WW Homestead Dairy

Stephanie, pictured with husband Marshall and children Hank, Hazel and Alice, is one of Tom Weighner’s four daughters and remains active with the farm.

WW Homestead Dairy in Waukon is surrounded by beautiful rolling hills and a thriving agricultural landscape.

In 2011, two northeastern Iowa families decided the time was right to enter the local food market with dairy products made from milk produced from 180 cows on their farms. The dairy is owned by Tom Weighner, Paul Weighner and Tom Walleser, who bring more than 90 years of combined experience in the dairy industry.

“We work hard to produce dairy products that are natural, have great flavor and taste, and are as fresh as possible,” explains Tom Weighner. WW Homestead products are available at the dairy’s onsite retail store, online and through fundraisers.

Customers rave about the fresh, squeaky cheese curds made almost daily by Bruce Snitker, creamery manager, who holds a Wisconsin Cheesemaker’s License. Individual cheese curds are available for shipping or in-store purchase and feature traditional cheddar flavors or a combined box of WW Homestead’s national award-winning flavors of Garlic and Dill, Chipotle Morita, Jalapeno Ranch and Bloody Mary. They also produce block cheddar cheese and small-batch cottage cheese. The 4% milkfat, small curd cottage cheese is made from nonhomogenized milk.

WW Homestead Dairy produces cheese curds, block cheddar cheese and cottage cheese. The cottage cheese is made from non-homogenized milk. In non-homogenized milk, fat molecules in milk rise to the top and form a layer of cream. Homogenizing milk prevents this separation from occurring by breaking the molecules down to a minuscule size and they remain suspended evenly throughout the milk instead of rising to the top.

Both farms grow corn and soybeans, which are primarily used for feed. Sustainability for the land and cow comfort are priorities on the farm. “The milking cows are housed in a free-stall barn that is bedded with deep sand, which is very comfortable for them,” Tom says. “The cows also have sprinklers and fans to keep them cool during the summer months and large curtains we can pull up on days when it’s cold and windy.”

For every 100 pounds of milk produced, it converts into 10 pounds of cheese. The rest is whey, the fluid remaining after milk has been curdled and strained.

“All the whey is reused as crop fertilizer or in feed for the cows. It truly creates a circle of sustainability,” Tom adds.

Tours are available where visitors can watch how products are made. Large viewing windows allow customers to see the hard work, effort and quality that go into making their cream-line milk, ice cream, cheese and butter.

To view the full spread, view this magazine in your internet browser on your phone, tablet or desktop. This story is funded by the soybean checkoff.