Family Table: The Cheesesteak Chronicles

The Cheesesteak Chronicles

DISCOVERING REGIONAL TWISTS ON THE CLASSIC COMFORT FOOD

By Cristen Clark

A classic cheesesteak can take on many forms. Around Iowa, there’s no shortage of delicious, locally raised protein to create a new version of my favorite sandwich. Before we dive into one of the heartiest harvest-time sandwich recipes in my book, let’s discover the history behind it.

Few dishes in the culinary realm evoke as much passion and debate as the iconic cheesesteak. Born in the heart of Philadelphia, this delectable sandwich has not only captured the hearts and taste buds of locals but across the nation, including the West Coast cheesesteak.

The story of the Philly cheesesteak begins in the 1930s at Pat’s King of Steaks, a humble hot dog stand operated by Pat Olivieri in South Philadelphia. One day, Olivieri grilled some thinly sliced beef with onions and melted cheese, nestling the savory concoction into a hearty hoagie roll. The result was an instant hit among taxi drivers and blue-collar workers, laying the foundation for a gastronomic phenomenon.

Word of Olivieri’s delicious creation spread like wildfire. Soon, rival cheesesteak joints popped up throughout the city, each putting their own spin on the classic recipe. However, it was Geno’s Steaks, founded by Joey Vento in 1966, that cemented the cheesesteak as a Philly institution by engaging in a friendly but fierce rivalry with Pat’s that continues to this day.

As the cheesesteak’s popularity soared, its influence began to extend far beyond the streets of Philadelphia. In cities across the country, chefs and restaurateurs put their twist on the classic recipe, leading to the emergence of regional variations. One such variation is the West Coast cheesesteak, which brings a touch of California flair to the East Coast favorite.

While the core components of the West Coast cheesesteak remain true to the original — thinly sliced beef, grilled onions and melted cheese — the devil is in the details. Peppers, mushrooms and even a slice of creamy avocado may find their way into the mix, adding freshness and complexity to each bite. And instead of the traditional hoagie roll, you might find the West Coast version served on a sturdy sourdough baguette or folded into a soft flatbread, further showcasing the region’s culinary diversity.

Despite these differences, the West Coast cheesesteak embodies the spirit of its Philadelphia ancestor — a filling, indulgent sandwich that brings people together, one delicious bite at a time. Whether you’re a purist who swears by the original or an adventurous foodie eager to try different adaptations, there’s no denying the enduring appeal of this iconic comfort food.

West Coast Cheesesteak Flips

• 1 ½ pounds ribeye steak, strip steak or sirloin steak, sliced very thinly against the grain

• 2 teaspoons soy sauce

• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

• ½ small sweet onion or yellow onion, very thinly sliced

• 1 bell pepper, cored, seeded and very thinly sliced

• 1 teaspoon salt, divided

• ½ teaspoon black pepper, divided

• 8 ounces button mushrooms, very thinly sliced

• 6 slices white American or provolone cheese

• 4 flatbread pitas

• Optional: mayonnaise or garlic aioli for serving

In a mixing bowl, combine steak slices with soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce. Set aside while preparing the vegetables.

Heat a large cast iron skillet or griddle over medium-high to high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil, onion, bell pepper, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir to combine. Cook for 3 minutes, then add mushrooms and cook for 4-5 more minutes. Remove vegetable mixture from the heat and set aside.

To the skillet, add remaining oil and steak in a single layer. Season with remaining salt and pepper. Sear steak pieces for 1-2 minutes, until browned on the edges. Flip and cook steak for another minute, until browned. Add vegetable mixture back into skillet and toss to combine. Turn off the heat and lay cheese slices on top of steak and vegetable mixture to melt.

While cheese is melting, warm flatbreads in the microwave or toast on a buttered griddle until golden. Scoop cheesesteak mixture into the warm flatbreads and fold in half. Serve immediately or wrap in foil to keep warm until serving.

Makes 4 generous flatbread sandwiches.