FLARE! is the official bimonthly publication of the International Betta Congress (IBC), a non-profit organization. The views and opinions contained within are not necessarily those of the editors and/or the officers and members of the IBC.
Editor’s Message
FLARE! Editor: Jeremy Waugh FlareEditor@ibcbettas.org
Before I get into this issue, I’d like to thank Connie Emery and Joe Becerra for their years of service to the IBC. Working with them has been such an incredible and valuable experience for me and I’m sure anyone else who has worked with them would agree.
FLARE! Submission Guidelines Articles: Please submit all articles in electronic form. We can accept most popular software formats and fonts. Email to FlareEditor@ibcbettas.org. Photos and graphics are encouraged with your articles! Please remember to include the photo/graphic credits. Graphics and photo files may be submitted in any format; however uncompressed TIFF, JPEG or vector format is preferred, at the highest resolution/file size possible. If you need help with graphics files or your file is too large to email, please contact me for alternative submission info. FTP is available.
Hello Fellow IBCers!
If you’re interested in showing your fish but are having a hard time getting started, this issue is for you. From entry forms to preparing your fish for shipping, we are outlining the entire process. We’ve also got our first of many columns from Linda Olsen, a recap of the Golden State Bettas show as well as Christine Tanner’s recount of the California Betta Society’s “Bowl Show” meeting. I also would like to say the next issue of Flare! will be in a new format. We will have great photos and articles but it will be more magazine-like and easier to access and read. I hope you’ll enjoy it!
Chapter Reports: All Chapters are encouraged to submit news and chapter items. It is a great opportunity to attract new club members in your area. If you are a new chapter, we will also highlight you in the Welcome to the IBC section. Photos and graphics are encouraged with your articles! Please remember to include the photo/ graphic credits. Graphics and photo files may be submitted in any format. However, uncompressed TIFF, JPEG or vector formats are preferred. Please submit the highest resolution and file size possible. If you need help with graphics files or your file is too large to email, please contact me for alternative submission info. FTP is available.
Sincerely,
Jeremy Waugh Flare! Editor FlareEditor@ibcbettas.org
Show Information: Show Chairs are responsible for submitting Show Information. Show Chairs are responsible for submitting Show Results. Please submit results in the electronic format approved by the Judging Board Registrar. Show Ads cannot exceed ½ pages in length. The IBC Convention ad cannot exceed two pages in length. If you need help creating an ad, please contact the editor at FlareEditor@IBCBettas.org
Art Submission: Graphics and photo files may be submitted in any format. However, uncompressed TIFF, JPEG or vector formats are preferred. Please submit the highest resolution and file size possible. If you need help with graphics files or your file is too large to email, please contact me for alternative submission info. FTP is available.
“Pineapple Plakat Male” Fish Imported by Stacy Deaton Photograph by Christine Tanner Design & Layout By Richard Atwood & Mike McBrien
Next deadline…… JULY 31, 2013 COPYRIGHT NOTICE All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted, distributed, sold, or publicly displayed in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, except for fair use, without the explicit permission of the International Betta Congress (IBC), Syracuse, NY, USA.
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FLARE! May/June 2013
Inside
Editor’s Message.................................................................................................................. 2
On the Cover........................................................................................................................ 2 President’s Letter.................................................................................................................. 4 Judging Board News............................................................................................................. 4 IBC Board Members & Committee Chairs............................................................................ 5 Bettaese................................................................................................................................ 7 IBC SMP Species Spotlight.................................................................................................... 8 Flare! Show Guide............................................................................................................. 10
Top 5 Breeders’ Advice........................................................................................... 12
Betta Crossword..................................................................................................... 15
Proper Form........................................................................................................... 16
Off to the Show...................................................................................................... 18
Show Ready............................................................................................................ 21
Golden State Betta Show.................................................................................................... 26 Betta Show Friedrichshafen 2013....................................................................................... 26 California Betta Society Meeting........................................................................................ 28 Cartoon............................................................................................................................... 28 IBC Chapters and Contact Info............................................................................................ 29 SCUBA Show Results........................................................................................................... 30 GBC Show Results............................................................................................................... 32 MBC Show Results.............................................................................................................. 34 CBS Show Results............................................................................................................... 36 Crossword Answers............................................................................................................ 37 IBC Show Classes – Area 1.................................................................................................. 38 IBC Show Classes – Area 2.................................................................................................. 39 IBC Show Entry Form.......................................................................................................... 40 IBC Code of Ethics............................................................................................................... 41 New Members.................................................................................................................... 41
Table of Contents
FLARE! Advertising Rates...................................................................................................... 2
IBC Dues............................................................................................................................. 41
FLARE! May/June 2013
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President’s Letter To my fellow IBC members: By the time you read this, another Convention will have come and gone and a new President will have been elected to lead the IBC for the next 2 years. It isn’t an easy job: In my more than 3 years as your 25th President, there have been trials and tribulations that have given me a gray hair or two (or three). It doesn’t surprise me that only 2 of my predecessors have spent more time in the office than I have, and that the last 3 presidents did not finish their terms. There is a lot of work to do to move the organization forward in the coming years. Website issues to be resolved, a more aggressive effort to recruit new members, and a concerted effort to expand our presence in other Areas are just some of the projects that I hope you will help the new leadership to accomplish. Despite our shortcomings, however, we have had a recent surge in membership. Some of these new IBC-ers will, with their enthusiasm, invigorate the organization and advance the hobby. Some of the projects that I spearheaded have been great successes: Our Facebook page has 2,325 fans, and some of them are joining the IBC. Special thanks to Karen Mac Auley for being our FB heart and soul. We have made an effort to support both clubs and entrants in their efforts to enter and put on shows, and we will continue to help clubs put together shows in Areas 1 and 2 and elsewhere. We must build on the positives and move things forward. I can’t leave without thanking Dr. Gene Lucas and a small band of hobbyists for starting this organization so many years ago. Gene told me that, after writing about Bettas for 40 years in scientific journals and aquarium magazines, he has never received an award for writing. I’m gratified that, finally, we were able to give him a Lifetime Achievement Award for Excellence in Writing at this year’s Convention. There isn’t enough bandwidth or paper to express my thanks to the many old-time members and more recent additions that have kept the IBC at the top of the hobby. I remember holding international shows in my own home, and proudly take credit for introducing some of the top breeders of their day to the IBC. Some of them are still with us and some are gone, but the IBC marches on. My advice for IBC members, as I leave, is to make sure that you make every effort to keep the mood of our social media, forums, and lists cordial and friendly. Nothing turns new members off than public negativity. Don’t be responsible for souring even one person to the great benefits of being part of this organization. We are all one community; never forget it. I hope to remain active in the IBC, and perhaps take an active role again in the leadership and show circuit in future years. Old betta hobbyists may fade away, but their love for the fighting fish from Siam will never die. Joe Becerra President, IBC
Judging Board News JUNE 2013 Another year is coming to a close. Convention is upon us and it will be a great time in Texas. It will be great to see everyone again and meet new members for the first time. The judging board welcomes Josip Kevari as our newest judge in Area 2 and our very first judge from Austria. I want to take this opportunity to thank every one of the judging board members that I have had the pleasure of serving with over the years. It has been a pleasure to work with every one of you. I also thank all the show chairs and members from each and every area that I have worked with and want you to know that you are truly a great bunch of friends. I only regret that our distances are so great that opportunities to meet are few and far between but working relationships can always lead to friendships and I am grateful for the ones I have made. I wish the IBC great success in the future and I’m sure it will remain the great organization it has always been with the hard work and devotion of all the members no matter what role they choose as their contribution. Each and every member is special and all have something to bring to the table for the betterment of the IBC. I look forward to this convention as Gerald has promised me I don’t have to do any work. Yeah, I can’t wait for the FISH, FRIENDS AND FUN!!!!!!!! Sincerely, Connie Emery JB Chair Page 4
FLARE! May/June 2013
IBC Board Members & Committee Chairs Executive Board President
Joe Becerra
president@ibcbettas.org
(954) 217-1433
Vice-President
Karen Mac Auley
vp@ibcbettas.org
Secretary
Steve Van Camp
secretary@ibcbettas.org
(315) 454-4792
Treasurer
Jack Tobin
treasurer@ibcbettas.org
(215) 533-0654
Judging Board
Connie Emery
jbchair@ibcbettas.org
(386) 437-3519
Member-at-Large
Christine Tanner
ebmember1@ibcbettas.org
Member-at-Large
Jeremy Waugh
ebmember2@ibcbettas.org
Member-at-Large
Melissa Migota
ebmember3@ibcbettas.org
Area 2 Member-at-Large
Peter Baerwald
area2member@ibcbettas.org Germany
Area 6 Member-at-Large
Jesda Attavichit
area6member@ibcbettas.org
Chairman/Show Dates
Connie Emery
jbchair@ibcbettas.org
Vice Chairman
Rich Christman
jbvp@ibcbettas.org
Registrar
Damian Garcia
registrar@ibcbettas.org
Judge Training
Phil Dorr
judgetraining@ibcbettas.org
Standards
Dan Young
standards@ibcbettas.org
Judges Certification
Sieg Illig
judgecertificate@ibcbettas.org (717) 692-3156
Exec. Board Rep./Registrar
Christine Tanner
ejliaison@ibcbettas.org
Area 2 Representative
Marion Schultheiss
area2jb@ibcbettas.org
Area 6 Representative
Hermanus Haryanto
area6jb@ibcbettas.org
Archives
Sally Van Camp
archives@ibcbettas.org
Awards
Joe Becerra
awards@ibcbettas.org
Betta Pals
J D Ewtuch
bettapals@ibcbettas.org
(732) 350-4122
Chapters
Jack Tobin
chapters@ibcbettas.org
(215) 533-0654
Constitution
Jack Tobin
constitution@ibcbettas.org
(215) 533-0654
(724) 869-5638
Judging Board (386) 437-3519
Indonesia
Committee Chairs
Convention
convention@ibcbettas.org
Finance
Jack Tobin
treasurer@ibcbettas.org
FLARE! Editor
Jeremy Waugh
FlareEditor@ibcbettas.org
Membership
Steve Van Camp
membership@ibcbettas.org
Nomenclature
Gene A. Lucas
nomenclature@ibcbettas.org (515) 289-1212
Nominations
Jack Tobin
nominations@ibcbettas.org
Parliamentarian
parliamentarian@ibcbettas.org
Programs
programs@ibcbettas.org
Publications
Kathy Tobin
jakatobin@verizon.net
Research & Grants
Leo Buss
research@ibcbettas.org
IBC Sales
Cecilia Mallett
sales@ibcbettas.org
Species Maintenance
Gerald Griffin
smp@ibcbettas.org
Technical Assistance
Sherolyn Craig
TAlibrary@ibcbettas.org
Webmaster
Cecilia Bailey Mallett
webmaster@ibcbettas.org
(215) 533-0654 (315) 454-4792 (215) 533-0654
(860) 349-2311 (918) 694-6522
International Betta Congress Website: http://www.ibcbettas.org International Betta Congress Forum: http://www.ibcbettas.org/2012/php883/ BetterBettas, IBC Members-Only Mailing List: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BetterBettas FLARE! May/June 2013
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FLARE! May/June 2013
By Linda Olson
Bettaese
Every area of interest under our sun has its own vocabulary, and oh, can that be confusing to those just getting started! New hobbyists are always asking me, “What do all of these terms mean?” On BetterBettas I have more than once threatened to offer an English–Bettaese Dictionary. Often these terms get started as unofficial labels made up by folks just trying to describe something new, and they stick. Let’s get started with DT. It often comes side by side with another abbreviation ST. ST means Single Tail, and was created after the DT, or Double Tail, appeared to distinguish one from the other. Most of us know that the ST has one tail that is either a VT, SD of HM, right? And that a DT has two distinct tail lobes and a dorsal fin the full length of its back that is a mirror image of the anal fin. VT, of course, stands for Veil Tail (otherwise known as the WalMart special) with a long ribbon-like (veil-like) tail. This was the first step in the development of what we have today. Betta breeders/enthusiasts tried to improve on this by developing the tail for further fullness, achieving a “delta-shaped” tail, which was widened still further into a Super Delta, or SD. Never completely satisfied, breeders worked this further still to achieve a tail that described a full half-circle, or 180 degrees, and came up with the name Half Moon, or HM, to describe that. Always striving to improve on finnage, breeders worked this to even more than 180 degrees and coined still another term, the Over Half Moon, or OHM. Even after all that, we are not even finished with tail. Some bettas were found to have fin rays that extended on beyond the edge of the fins to produce a spiked effect that was exciting to work with. Those have been bred into a separate category, and the term that stuck this time was Crown Tail, or CT. And, since you can also combine that with the DT gene, you also have DTCT, or Double-Tail Crown Tail. Of course, the long fins in Bettas was a mutation that has been developed by human breeders into all these above variations. Wild Bettas have short fins, and those also have been developed into HMs, and even DTs and CTs. The officially accepted term for the short-finned bettas is Plakat, or PK, which means “fighter” in Thai. So, now we have HMPK, CTPK, OHMPK and DTPK. These terms for tails have been around for some time, and there are still others that describe color. One frequently seen is MG, which stands for Mustard Gas. This is a bicolor combination with a blue, steel or green body with yellow fins. Originally developed by American breeder Jude Als, it has been further developed into patterned fish with white or black borders around the fins. When the fins are bordered with still another color, that has been called a Butterfly, or BF, pattern. Jude Als did create a striking color type that bred true, and seemed to have an al-
FLARE! May/June 2013
most air-brushed quality. Other breeders crossed red into these to produce an almost purplish fish they called a Salamander. The Thai are great experimenters in their breeding practices, and are regularly coming up with new variations. About 10 years ago, they followed American Breeder Walt Maurus and recreated what Walt had originally developed—the Metallic Gold betta. Walt had done this in the 1970s, selectively breeding five generations of the regular splendens to produce fish that looked like they were made of gold foil. However, his line was lost. The Thai bred a new metallic line by crossing splendens out to the the wild population of Smaragdina, which have metallic copper in body and fins and in their faces. By doing this they created the metallic splendens lines, along with what they called the Mask. Until then, iridescent (blue, green or steel) bettas could have brilliantly iridescent bodies and fins, but that would fade out toward the face, leaving it a matte black. Now they had created iridescent fish that had fully iridescent faces. These metallic fish were bred into every color of bettas, creating fish with bodies that looked like they were made out of gold, copper or even silver chainmail with red, blue, green, steel, yellow or black fins so that they looked almost like the Chinese dragons used in festivals. And so, they were very aptly named Red Dragons, Yellow Dragons, Black Dragons, etc. The newest creation in bettas, again introduced by our Thai friends, is the Dumbo Big-Ears. This appears to be another mutation, where the pectoral fins are oversized and usually opaque. They almost look like they are waving a pair of fans in the water. Another recent development in betta terminology has been confusing American buyers on Aquabid. The Thai are calling some fish Monsters. Now, the Thai breeders have created a race of Giant Bettas, both HMs and PKs, bred for increased size. Many figure that Monsters must be like Giants, but that is not what they are at all. I have discussed this with my partner in Thailand, Preecha Ammara. He says he does not know which Thai breeder came up with the term, but we both agreed what it means and how it has been applied. In Oriental plays, there are many monsters (Godzilla has lots of friends) and the stage actor who plays the monster wears a metallic mask so that the audience will recognize who he is. The Bettas that are called Monsters have metallic white faces. Some also call this trait Monkey Face, but Monster seems to be the term that is winning out in popular usage. Some of the breeders/sellers on Aquabid, eBay, and private websites are continually coming up with new words to describe their fish, most of which are never commonly accepted. A few of these will be picked up and will become conventional terminology while most will be discarded. Still, as more and more of us breed these fish and create new variations, we will need to continually update this “dictionary.” Page 7
IBC SMP Species Spotlight
by Gerald Griffin
Betta splendens
T
his is a start of a series of articles that will appear in Flare!. In each issue, I will discuss a species of Wild Betta. Since there are some 90 species of Wild Bettas, this will be a long involved project. My hopes are that readers will actually be enticed to consider Wild Betta species as something worthy of keeping—if not for the value of preservation then for the value of observing their behaviors as opposed to the typical domestic or show Betta splendens, which the vast majority of us keep. I hope you enjoy.
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In a way it makes sense to start this project with the species that brought us all together in the first place. There is no doubt that Betta splendens is probably one of the most interesting and popular of aquarium fish. Also known as the Siamese Fighting Fish, this species has earned a lot of notoriety in the pet trade for more than 100 years. However, it is still one of the most misunderstood fish in the aquarium market. The Betta commonly kept is Betta splendens and is one of about 90 species of fighting fish found in Southeast Asia. Bettas get their name from the word “Bettah,” which derives from the Thai word “Ikan Bettah,” meaning fighting fish. The Thai also use a word “Pla kad,” which translates to “biting fish” to describe the Betta as well. Betta splendens first came to the United States in 1910, and have been popular ever since. Over time, a number of myths have come about to be accepted by a number of people. Because you are an IBC member
reading this, you have probably dispelled a number of these myths when you visit pet shops and hear the workers perpetuate these myths. The focus of this article will be on the wild form of Betta splendens. First off, when it comes to the wild species, they can be kept just like normal Show Bettas or they can be placed in species tanks. An interesting note is that when you jar a splendens complex fish, they act very much like a domestic splendens. They will flare at each other and they will fight. However, when placed into a species tank, the aggression dies down and they go back to their “natural” state. When keeping a species tank, size can become an issue. A pair will do well in a 10-gallon tank as long as they have adequate hiding spaces. For a group of six, a 30-gallon tank should be considered a minimum size. For larger groups, you should size accordingly. The space allows the individual males to stake out a small territory that they will defend. They should be kept at 76 to 80 degrees F in water that is clean and of moderate hardness. If you want to “observe” their behaviors, it is best to put them in a large tank and have six or more in the tank. Their tank should be decorated with plants and caves so that fish can have a place to retreat to if they are being picked on more than they would like. However, when placed in an environment like this, you can watch how they interact and it can give you some interesting insights on how domestic splendens act. One of the biggest differences you might notice is that wild splendens are not as aggressive as domestic splendens. Also, to observe the best behaviors, the tank should be filtered with sponge filters on low flow so that males can build nests. If the water flow is too high, then the fish will not nest and they will act just like any other anabantoid in the aquarium. When breeding wild splendens, it is best to place the FLARE! May/June 2013
pair in the tank and observe. Although they will breed very similarly to domestic splendens, they will typically not show the damage that is typical of domestic splendens. The vast majority of times there is no damage to either fish. It is somewhat amazing how different the behaviors can be between the domestic and wild splendens. However, if you breed enough domestics, you will discover pairs that spawn exactly like wild splendens. In my experience with wild splendens, none have ever failed to build a nest even though that nest is relatively small but compact and deep and typically anchored under something on the surface. The male actively tends the nest but does not kill the female in the tank. The female could actually be left in the tank, but for best results in raising fry it is better to remove the female. Keeping wild splendens can be very rewarding as they are becoming increasingly rare in the wild. The main reason for this rarity is due to the fact of releases of domestic splendens into their wild habitat. For many who fight fish, this is considered important as the fighters are all released into a water way and a bamboo pipe is placed in the water way, typically a pond. The most dominant male in the water way will lay dominion over the pipe and that is the one collected for fighting. Unfortunately, this practice has yielded many hybrids in the wild, which during the rainy season can spread to other water ways and therefore contaminating the pure blooded wild splendens. So it goes without saying that keeping a Wild Betta species, such as wild splendens, is not only interesting but also rewarding. Not only in the fact of helping to preserve a species that is in decline but also giving one the ability to observe the original natural instincts of the domestic or show splendens and how so many show strains have veered from their “natural” instincts. FLARE! May/June 2013
Above are two examples of “wild Betta hybrids.” Both were presented to me as new species.
Typical Wild Betta splendens from different locations. Notice the similarities but yet there are differences, too? Many wild Betta species show differences from one location to the next, and therefore could in the future be classified as separate species.
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Show Tim
The Flare! Guide to Showi
Photo by Minh Nguyen Page 10
FLARE! May/June 2013
me!
ing Bettas
Feature INSIDE Top 5 Breeders’ Advice......................12 Betta Crossword.................................15 Filling Out the Entry Form.................16 Getting Your Fish to the Show..........18 Conditioning Your Show Fish...........21 IBC Classes Area 1.............................38 IBC Classes Area 2.............................39 IBC Show Entry Form.........................40
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Advice From 2012-2013
T
he 20122013 Top Five Breeders talk about how they pick and prepare their Bettas for shows.
What steps do you take to prepare for the show season? Sieg Illig: Show season starts usually the end of March, and to make sure to have show fish at this time, my breeding program starts at least by the end of October and ends by the end of February—taking care of about 10 to 12 spawns, depending on the cooperation of the breeder fish. Not every spawn is a success, but makes the hobby interesting. Stacy Deaton: Show preparation starts with selecting your breeders and spawning, as we all know, but the key to having good fish during the show season is good rearing of the fry. I’ll admit I’m not too awfully complicated when it comes to the growout process. I feed a wide variety of foods, good water quality and controlling stress are your biggest tools. On average, by the time my young juveniles are jarred, they have eaten these foods: infusoria, vinegar eels, baby brine shrimp, powdered dried earthworms, frozen daphnia pulex, golden pearls of all sizes, frozen adult brine shrimp, live daphnia magna, live scuds, live mosquito larvae (when in season), New Life Spectrum .5 “Grow” pellets and Attison’s pellets (not the Pro). I don’t care for any of the micro/ banana/Walter worms and I can’t keep grindals or white worms alive, so I don’t bother. I feed three times a day, and make sure to never overfeed. I have very hard water here in Arizona. The fish I raised for the time I spent competing in the New Breeder classes were raised in my well water—I ruined more Page 12
fins in that water than I care to list. I set up a very simple Reverse Osmosis filter (branched off my laundry room water spout), and it’s made all the difference. I don’t fool around with trying to reconstitute a balanced water chemistry out of plain RO water as it requires too much math. I “cut” my well water 50/50 to bring the hardness down to roughly 8 or 9 GH. I make sure my KH stays above 4.5 degrees when cutting the well water by testing periodically. I correct my pH down to 7.0 using an acid buffer. I use one drop of PolyViSol plus Iron per gallon of new water during water changes (this is mostly a cheap way of supplementing the live plants). I use one tablespoon of salt per five gallons of water for general parasite prevention, this level is lower than the recommended one teaspoon per gallon but I find this level has kept me from seeing velvet or ich and does not kill my snails and plants. I don’t typically try to power grow my fish. I definitely don’t get around to doing daily water changes, unless it’s a very large spawn. Every other day or every third day is more common. I supplement my lack of water changes with strong LED or T5 lighting and tons of plants. I typically have one type of moss, some Guppy Grass or Hornwort and Amazon Frogbit all growing in my growouts. As long as these are actively growing, they are absorbing a good portion of the biological waste products and their byproducts. The overabundance of plants in my tanks help to reduce dominance related stress by blocking visual access and chasing ranges. By mixing up my water in the same way every single time, I prevent the fry from being shocked by changing water parameters (thus I can get away with doing larger percentage water changes). John Leach: In preparation for the show season, I take a look at the most recent class list and standards according to the IBC rules/guidelines. Since the shows begin around Labor Day, planning and preparation begins usually in the spring with decisions on who to spawn and what I am trying to achieve. Spawning is in full swing April/May. If needed, new stock is ordered to commence a new line or outcross. I also make sure proper shipping supplies are on hand—box, styrofoam cut to appropriate
size, shipping bags , heat packs (if necessary), entry forms and postage labels. Yvonne Chaban: I set up as many spawn tanks as I can take care of. This way I will have a lot of fish to choose from and can select the best for show. The fry are fed well and kept together until they start to nip at each other. They are then jarred and given frequent water changes. Sherolyn Craig: Save more money up in the PayPal account. I am committed to supporting shows so make sure I set aside the funds to do it. I also start to evaluate the spawns growing out for possible show fish. I look for fish I feel will be competitive, and get them in larger containers. I give these selected fish increased feedings, more frequent water changes, and they are also carded. I have tried to time spawns to be maturing when the seasons start, but have given this up for a few reasons. I can not always get my fish to spawn exactly when I want them too. Bettas have a mind of their own and often do not spawn as I had planned. I am also more breeder than exhibitor. I show to establish my credentials as a breeder and receive feedback on how well I am doing. Seeing what fish place tells me what I am doing right and shows where I need to improve. I also have only so many resources in tanks and time. Spawning to compete in several classes gives you a lot of fish maturing at the same time. For those new to the hobby, that is a lot of work time wise. I prefer to have a more staggered approach, so I always have spawning fish, fry, Juvies as well as mature breeders or show fish at any given time. When and how do you select show fish for the season? Sieg: Selecting show starts about four weeks before the first show according to the IBC standard. I only jar show fish. Males are housed in half-gallon and females in quart jars. Stacy: Show fish selection starts early with jarring. My first jarred fish are usually the best formed of the larger fry. I remove large, but not so nicely formed fish, for retail sales and swap shops—this is usually enough to minimize nipping while I wait for another crop of larger nicely formed fish to appear in the grow out. I find that body growth will slow drastically once the fish are jarred, so I try to push the group as long as I can in the grow out. I jar both males and females, FLARE! May/June 2013
Top Five IBC Breeders
have had a chance to grow more. Sherolyn: Every day I look at them. It is part of the culling process. Any thing that is not showable, is also not breedable. Show fish are breeder culls, basically good fish with slightly more faults than those I want to breed. They are also fish I’m willing to risk losing. Those not of show grade I sell or cull to pet homes here locally. Prospective show fish are kept in the same general area and as a show date approaches, they are evaluated for size, color, form and deportment. Final decisions are made the weekend before a show.
keeping show girls in a sorority setting does not work for me. All jarred fish are kept carded at all times unless they are being flare trained which I usually do once a day for about 15 minutes. When I have as many well-formed fish from the spawn as possible I watch and sort them by faults as they grow. Usually a few nights before the first show of the season I hold a mock show for each group/class of fish. Some fish I just have a feeling about but most are selected through comparing faults with the standards and flashlight in hand just as a judge would. Fish with equal faults are sorted by size and the larger wins. I’m developing a better working knowledge of the standards as I go; I feel this is a very important part of being a serious exhibitor. When fish return from a show I will again sort them by place and compare them to the ones that stayed home. Most of the time the show line up will stay the same but as the show fish get sent hither and thither there are times that homebody fish will become a better show candidate. I usually add a new hopeful to the current lineup instead of replacing a fish (unless the show fish is beginning to weaken or develop condition issues). If a new hopeful bumps a previously placing fish out of the placings then I’ll usuFLARE! May/June 2013
ally sell the bumped fish at the next show or set it aside as a breeder backup if necessary. John: After growing out spawns for several months I ususally take a good look at them about a month before the shows commence and at this point make my picks for showing, ie: are they corrrect size or will they makle it by the show date, can they be properly classed ? Dont want a ton of fish ending up in form n finnage because there isnt any way of classing them. Who catches my eye? Does one deport betta than another? Who has betta form, finnage, balance, color, etc. Yvonne: I start selecting potential show fish very early in their lives. When they are young I look more for behavior than form and finnage. I want a fish that is calm not and afraid. The show circuit is stressful and there will be a lot of people looking at the fish. Once I have a fish that exhibits those traits then the body, fins and color are the next consideration. Any potential candidates are separated and put into a show situation. They get to practice their deportment with the other candidates. Some will be eliminated at this point. If they don’t deport they will not do well in the shows. I then have them lined up with the younger ones last. These will be the fish that will go to shows later in the season, when they
What is the average age of your show fish, and do you retire fish at a certain age? Sieg: Average age of males is 4 to 6 month, where as females and Plakats can be shown to a much higher age. A HM male usually only lasts for one or two shows and have to be retired and replaced. Stacy: Since I don’t push my fish very hard the average age of my show fish is between 5 and 9 months. I have been able to show fish as young as 4 months old, but I don’t like to. I find that when pushed to show size at a young age they tend to “finish out” too soon, meaning their fins go floppy or get ruined far too soon in the season. One of my copper lines is completely intolerant of being pushed along, so they show from roughly 7 months on. My males are normally retired after one half-season to breed. Females that make it cleanly through spawning or aren’t being bred are shown for as long as they stay up to standards. One of the females in my current show string has been showing since last Spring and was born 30 January 2012. John: The average age of my show fish are 4.5 months or betta and usually they are retired by 6 or 7 months old tops. Yvonne: The average age is 6 to 9 months. There are some that are ready earlier. Some fish can be ready to show as early as 4 months. Depending on when the fry hatched some of the fish are going to be older when the new season starts. As far a retirement goes, there are several factors that can determine that. I had a nice halfmoon plakat that could have continue to show if he hadn’t blown his caudal during a return trip. His show career was over but he has gone on to produce some nice offspring. Page 13
Another factor that can determine retirement is size. Some females can get very large and they will not show well. It really just depends on the fish. You know when it is the right time. Sherolyn: I have a line that matures VERY late. Six to eight months and the males are just peaking. The others I find males look good around 4-6 months. Females are a bit easier and I can show them as soon as they reach size and often for a few seasons. I do not like excessively long fins on my girls. Because I select for balance when choosing my female breeders, I don’t tend to have them outgrow the balance needed at a show to be competitive. Females I keep as long as I feel they can compete. Points are points, and if they continue to place, they continue to be shown. Males I tend to re-home once I get the next generation of a line to the fry stage. The fish I use for breeding are my interest. So others, once past showing, are often sold to other breeders. What is your method for keeping your show fish pristine for the season? Sieg: I think the old fashion jar method is still the best for keeping show fish in condition. I do a water change every 3 days and cleaning the jars every 2 to 3 weeks with vinegar and a good rinse with water. A 30 gallon drum is always handy with aged water. Stacy: I baby them while they’re home. They get as many meals a day from different food sources as they’ll take and gentle water changes every other day. They are kept on a heated mat and carded so that the males don’t blow their fins. Once a day they are un-carded for some exercise. Having luck when it comes to shipping is helpful, some fish are going to come home with tears or broken rays. There’s really nothing that can be done to prevent that 100%. Clean water will heal tears in time for the next show usually, but exposed and shortened rays from shredding or biting will land them some rest time and a skipped show (or end their career and start their breeding early). John: Water clarity is A1 most important for show fish and carding them all the time, this way they will deport (flare) , and hopefully eliminate blown fins before a show. Yvonne: Frequent water changes and good food. All of my fish get this anyway. I actually don’t treat the show fish different from the rest. Sherolyn: Water change, water change, good food, water change. Feed a quality food and stay on top of the water changes and you should have nice fish with great fins. I also have to watch water hardness as have found it can curl fins if it gets too hard. Page 14
Since I use RO with minerals added back, it is my error when that happens. So I test the TDS of any water used on the show males before use to make sure. I have run full circle in carding, not carding and then carding again. I am starting to breed for aggression and encourage it with carding and time spent flaring. The greatest fish in the world with no deportment will not win anything. Need to think about everything that is judged, and keep fish accordingly. Do you keep records of your fish and lines? If so, how? Sieg: Every spawn is numbered, and dated starting with having eggs in the nest. Fish I keep from a spawn will also be numbered and dated with labels. This way I can trace my fish generations back. For example, I’m able to trace my turquoise HM line back to 1994. Stacy: I keep meticulous records of all of my jarred fish and spawns. Each fish produced in my house that is jarred is given a unique identifier consisting of a shortened version of their spawn number and a number or letter that corresponds with the order in which they were jarred. My spawns are labeled like this: 12-023. 12 represents the year, 2012; 023 represents the 23rd consecutive spawn. The first male and female from that spawn receive a jar label of 23-1 or 23-A (numbers for females, letters for males), and so on and so forth for the rest of the jarred siblings. When fish are sent to a show I put this identifier in the remarks column. When the show chairs send back the show log with placings, I correlate this information (grouped by spawn) into a spreadsheet. This way I can track how successful each spawn is, how many times a fish is placing, and whether their placing
changed between shows (showing possible degradation or improvement over time). I also use this information in the picture pedigrees I make for all of my spawns. John: In keeping records of fish and lines, it’s just a simple number system documented on an Excel spreadsheet or at the very least a handwritten record of each spawn describing the parents and outcome. Sherolyn: Most definitely. I keep pedigrees on all of my fish, and I am starting to take even more notes on the results of crosses. I contemplate in-house crosses by looking at their breeding and lineage back several generations. I breed solid-colored fish, so like to see solid breeder fish out of spawns of solid fish as far back as I can. White fin edges or colored ventrals are something I now note, not only in breeders, but also their siblings. After four years of breeding, I am noticing some things in color and form. So going forward, I want to determine if a trait is dominant or recessive, can I compile enough data to make some predictions about it and get some quantitative numbers on ratios of the trait in spawns. Recordkeeping is a big part of my fish keeping. Yvonne: All of my breeders are kept in a record book. They are numbered and have a description. The description includes the breeder, if it is an outcrossing, color and type. On the breeding tank I have removable tape with the breeder’s number and the date the spawn hatched. The number of the fish is kept on its container at all times. My record book also keeps track of the spawning. This helps with future spawns. I need to know who was aggressive, who doesn’t spawn and which pairs not to spawn again. FLARE! May/June 2013
Betta Crossword This puzzle consists of words and terms you will encounter when showing your fish. The answers can be found in this issue of Flare! 1
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Across Increases the ambient temperature in a box when shipping during the colder months. What the fish are measured against. Division B consists of this type of fish. Fish with least faults in a show earns this title. Type of box needed to ship fish. Grand Champion Breeder that earned the most points in a show season Title given to breeder that earns the most points in a season. Division A is for showing what tail type? Color of first place ribbon
Answers on Page 37 FLARE! May/June 2013
1 2 4 5 6 8 11 13 14 18
Down When you have a new color or form, this is the class you should enter your fish Must be done before show to let show secretary know you are entering fish. Class for a Red Halfmoon Male Division for those in their first or second year of showing. Last show of the year and awards are given out at. This is done to prevent water from leaking completely out when shipping fish. What must be filled out and sent to compete at a show. Marble / Grizzle STM would be entered in what class? Before you can choose a class you must determine this. Fish are evaluated and pulled for these. Page 15
Proper Form Learn how to fill out a show entry form.
By Sherolyn Craig To enter fish in an IBC show, you need to fill out an entry form, which will specify the class you want the fish entered in and also inform the show club if you are going to sell the fish at auction. The first time filling out the form, though, can be confusing. So here is a step by step to get your entries completed and done correctly. A copy of the entry form in Excel format can be found at www.cbsbettas.org/files/2012-2013EntryFormClassListArea1.xls. Show Entries The form has tabs across the bottom. The first tab is the ENTRY form, the second is the current year’s CLASS LIST and the last tab is a sliding SCALE used for the cost of entries. Once you access the file, fill out all of the information on the top of the entry form. Put your name, address, email address and so on in the blank spaces provided. Once the top part of the form is filled out, right click and create a copy of this first ENTRY form and add it right behind that first tab. Then right click and rename that tab AUCTION. Now save the file as MASTER. After saving, go to the ENTRY tab and print out a dozen copies and a copy or two of the CLASS LIST. I put them on a clipboard to use in the fish room when getting ready for a show. On the Sunday a week before the show weekend, make the final decisions on what fish will ship to the show. I use a dry erase Page 16
marker and start labeling containers of show fish with big consecutive numbers. As I go, I take my clipboard with the ENTRY form on it and make notes as to what fish corresponds to what number. Because my fish have an ID number, I list that ID number and a brief description in the LABEL/REMARKS column on the entry form. I continue marking fish and adding their info to the entry form until I have all of the show fish listed. At this point, all I do is notate what fish goes with what number. Once finished numbering and listing the show fish, I will typically then bag each fish for the show and box them up using the entries list I just made as the “packing” list. Plan on three to five minutes per fish to bag. One copy of the entry form needs to go in the box to be shipped with the fish, and an electronic version needs to be emailed to the
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show chair prior to the show. The electronic entry sent to the Show Chair is your official entry into the show and the secretary often needs to have this entry by the Wednesday night before the show weekend. This preregistration is needed to ensure enough containers are provided and to get some of the paperwork out of the way before the show begins. If you miss this date, you might find your fish returned to you without being able to participate in the show. If problems arise, always contact the show chair and work something out. To fill out the entry form, take your scratch entry sheet, head over to the computer and pull up your MASTER Excel file. Then save another copy of the Excel file under the name of the show, show date or however you want to name your entry forms. Now take a look at the first fish you have listed on your scratch sheet. Type your fish description into the Excel file, and decide if you want the fish shipped back or auctioned at the show. If you want the fish back, put a “N” in the auction column, “Y” if you want the fish auctioned plus the minimum amount the fish is to be sold for. Currently, the opening bid is $5, but you can set whatever you want above or below that. That tells the club they cannot sell the fish unless this minimum price is met. If you set a minimum price of $10 and no one wants to pay that for your fish, the fish is shipped back. Continue to fill out the Excel file with your fish information. Once you get all of the info on the form, it is time to fill in the classes you want the fish entered in. This is where your descriptions will speed things along. If you take a look at the class list you will see some general divisions. The first group is for the Halfmoons, then comes Double Tails, Crown Tails, Plakats and finally Variations. The New Breeder has its own section as well. Then in each group you will have the classes based and broken down on the color of the fish. So when entering fish, you first go Regular or New Breeder section, find the section for your tail type, then start to look at the color of you fish and where it fits in the classes. Most colors are self explanatory. A red Betta obviously will go in the Red class. You need to be familiar with the standards enough to understand any faults that might get the fish moved to another class, like white fin edges or metallic covering. Once you determine the correct color class, you then drill down a little further and choose either male or female. When satisfied with your choice of class, note its number and the division. Enter those letters/numbers on the entry form under the correct headings. Continue looking up all of the classes until the form is complete. What about the ones you are not quite sure where they go? For fish you are not sure about, enter the description and if you are selling at auction, but leave the Division and Class spaces blank. Instead write HELP to the right of the description field. A judge at the show will evaluate the fish and place it into the correct class. You FLARE! May/June 2013
will also receive feedback as to the class it was entered in and why. After all the fish have been entered in classes, you then tally up the number of fish you are showing and put that number at the bottom right of the form. Look up the total number of fish on the last tab of your spreadsheet and enter the amount owed for entries. Some clubs will allow you to pay entry fees through PayPal to the show chair as a “gift” so you pay for any PayPal fees. If a club does not have PayPal, or you do not want to use it, make a check out for the entry fees and include it with your fish. Auction Only Every show takes a lot of work and money to be successful. One way a host club makes money is to have an auction after the show. Some of the show fish will often be offered for sale as well as additional fish from breeders are sent to help the host club make ends meet. Anything auctioned has a split of 75% of the selling price to the breeder and the remaining 25% is given to the host. Because shows have very nice Bettas on display and breeders available to discuss fish and answer questions, you will find most shows are well attended by those interested in breeding and raising Bettas. Many will come looking to purchase Bettas, so sending fish to auction is also a good way to help offset some of the expense of sending the fish to the shows. The auction takes place after the show and it is not unusual to find class- or variety-winning fish being offered for sale. To enter fish you are not showing in the auction, go to the second tab, AUCTION, and enter your fish descriptions. You do not need to enter any class or division information, but you do need to determine any minimum bids. Make sure you put the corresponding entry number on the fish bags to keep them straight. Submitting the Entries Once you get everything filled out, do a final save on the file. Print out a copy of both the entries and the list of auction fish if you have them and include them in the box when you ship your fish. Then you get the email address for the show secretary and send a copy of the file to them before the due date. When I send the the file as an attachment, I let the secretary know about the AUCTION tab if I have fish listed there, and I also ask them to confirm they can open the file. Walk Ins The only thing different if you are going to physically take your fish to a show instead of shipping them is the bagging a week before. You still will determine the fish you are sending at that time and get your entries to the show chair by the deadline. Then you will bag your fish and make sure you get them to the show to have your fish benched before the deadline set by the show. So, there you have it. Pretty straightforward once you get through it. Hope to see everyone’s fish at the show! Page 17
Off to the Show
Follow these easy step-by-step instructions for sending your fish to a show.
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By Sherolyn Craig
o, the first show of the season is a few weeks away and you have been looking at your young Bettas, thinking they turned out real nice. The thought of entering them in a show sounds fun and exciting, but you are new to the hobby and are not sure how to get your fish entered and delivered to the show.
Getting Ready The first thing you need to do is determine what fish you want to send. Make sure you go over the IBC standards and your fish fit into in a show class. The ones I am thinking about showing I take a dry erase marker and write “SHOW” on their container. As the show approaches, these fish get a few extra meals to build condition, extra water changes to get size and maximize finnage Page 18
and constant scrutiny for faults. You will also want to download the Excel file of the current entry form and class list. Show date is now a week away. Most clubs require pre-registration of entries so they can be prepared with containers for the show. It also allows the show secretary to get some of the paper work done or ready for the show. Since fish have to be shipped I do all this the Sunday before the show weekend. Grab a blank entry form and head to the fish room. If you look at the entry sheet you will see it is numbered down the left side 1-25. So, the first fish is listed on line #1 and the entry number is marked on the fish’s container with a dry erase marker. On the forms, I usually list my fish ID number, the color and if DT in the label/remark column. At this time, that is all the info I put on this form. Then I move to the next fish. After a good look over, they are listed as entry #2 and so on until the show fish are all listed on the entry form. At this point this is all I do on the entry form. Now it is time for me to bag and box my fish to be shipped out in the morning on my way to work. If I had the day off I would
bag, box and ship on Monday. I usually have a few fish to ship so I lay everything out before I even grab the first fish. You will need clean water, shipping bags, an insulated shipping box, and I use small Dixie cups, and the top of a soda bottles for reasons to come. I have become rather anal about disease so I have a beanie with sterilized nets so I can use a clean net on each fish. And I lay out a dish towel to work on and catch all the drips. Bagging & Boxing I take a large one-gallon container and add clean, clear water. At the shows, the bags are floated in beanies. After about 30 minutes, the top is cut and both fish and water are dumped into the show container. You do not want Meth Blue or Indian almond leaf in that to discolor the water. If you send your fish in colored water, you might end up getting the fish disqualified. To prepare my water, I add just a pinch of salt and dissolve it. Salt increases the slime coat and that increases resistance to parasites. I do not use salt on a regular basis so it might help with the stress of shipping to give just a little more protection. I take a Dixie cup and add water to FLARE! May/June 2013
almost the top. Then I grab a net and go get my #1 fish and put them into the water in the Dixie cup. I take the top of a soda bottle and put the neck opening into the top of the shipping bag and grab it there, creating a funnel. I tip the funnel slightly and slowly pour water and fish into the funnel and down into the bag. They slide very easily through the funnel hole and into the bag. I have several of these bottle tops so I can do several fish before sterilizing them for use on another fish. I then tie off the bag with some air in the top. You have to look at how deep your box is and make sure you don’t have so much bagged air you cannot get a lid on. Ideally, you will have the bag so one-third is water and the other two-thirds is air. If I have to use heat/cold packs, I go a little less air so there is more space between the fish and the heat/cold pack. Make sure you tie this bag TIGHT. Pull that knot a few times and then once more to be sure. The last thing you want is a bag to leak. Then you invert the bag and slide it down into another bag with the tied knot end in first. Once the fish is double bagged, you mark its entry number on the outside of the bag with a permanent marker. Then check off that fish on your list, and head for #2. Continue doing this until all fish are double bagged and in their shipping box. Fish need to be shipped in an insulated box. That might be a USPS box with styrofoam cut to line the sides inside, or a larger styrofoam box. You can often get the styrofoam boxes from pet shops, veterinarians who receive vaccinations that need to be kept cold and other sources. My mother received some steaks she ordered in a styrofoam box. I have several sizes on hand to use depending on the number of fish I need to send. When you put the bags in the box, you want to put the knot from the outside bag down in the box. That will put the knot on the inside bag up and the bottom will be smooth for the fish. Pack the fish in so that there is no play and the bags do not move FLARE! May/June 2013
around inside the box. Once the fish are boxed, you need to add a few more things before taping up and shipping. After the fish are shown, they will be rebagged and shipped home unless they are sold at auction. If you are getting your fish back, you need to send enough bags for them to be returned in. I take the number of fish am sending, double it and add some more. Some bags could have a hole, some fish might not sell at auction and often someone forgets to send some bags and the extras get those fish home. I take a large Ziploc bag and insert the bags for my returning fish in there. Also, to be included in that Ziploc bag, is your entry form and check for the entry fees unless you sent payment through PayPal. The Ziploc keeps your paperwork nice and dry in the event of a leak from your bags. Once you have your box packed, you can now turn your attention to the entry form and printing shipping labels.
Entries At this point I sit down at the computer and create the entry form I will email to the show chair as well as send a copy in my shipping box. Starting with the first fish, I add my fish ID and color info into the label/remarks column. Then I look up the class the fish will go in. On the entry form spreadsheet, the last tab has the current class listing. So you go there and determine the Division and the Class your fish belongs in and add that information in the first two columns. In the box under AUCTION is where you let the show chair know if you want the fish back or will be placed in the auction. Fish currently start at a minimum bid of $5, but if you want more than that minimum, you will put your desired dollar amount in the column. If you put NO under auction, then the fish will be returned to you, with the possibility many sad faces since it will not be for sale. If you mark YES then the fish will be auctioned after the show. The rest of the form to the right of the label/remark column is for the show secretary to fill out. Continue entering your fish until they are all listed. Total up your entries and determine your entry fees. Make sure the top of the form is complete with your information. If something happens or there are questions, you will receive an email or a phone call, so make sure the info is correct. The “return fish via� section determines how the fish are to be sent home. Check the appropriate box for how you want yours returned. Shipping There are a few ways to get your fish back from a show. Many people just include enough money with the entries for postage to be purchased for the ride home. If you add what it costs you to get them to the show, it should be enough. Looking to make things simple and avoid any accidents, I print a return label and include that in my box. Page 19
The best way to print these labels is to use PayPal, and use the multi-order shipping option. To find this shipping option, you do need to do a search for “multi-order shipping.” To make it easier for the next time you ship fish, bookmark the link. The first label I create is from me to the person receiving the show fish. You can get this information from the flyer the shows put out with the show information. Make sure you get the correct address as the show site address is also listed on this flyer. Then I create another label from the show back to myself. But there is a little catch to get the fish back to you as the address of the sender will always display your home address. To get shipping from the show you need to look further down on the “SHIP FROM” tab, and you will see a box for originating ZIP code. Put the ZIP code of the show in that box. That will take care of where they are leaving from. Then you just add your shipping address in the “TO” tab for them to come home. I have mine shipped to my work so I can guarantee they are not left out in weather where the fish might freeze or bake. After the labels are created you just print them out. The return label from the show to home will go in the Ziploc bag with your entry form and check. The other will be attached to the outside of the box. There are a few more things to consider before closing that box. Depending on the weather, you may want to add a heat or cold pack. Whichever you add, you want to make sure neither comes in contact with the fish bags. I add some layer of insulation between the fish and the pack. Because I ship out the morning after the fish are packed, I do not seal up the box and add the packs until I am ready to walk out the door. Everybody gets a once over, then heat or cold packs are added, the box taped, and the box dropped off on the way to work. Page 20
The Wait The first show you do will be a bit stressful getting it all together. Once you leave your shipping box at the Post Office, your stomach will probably knot up a bit as you send your babies off to spread their fins and strut their stuff. Most shows will send an email out letting people know boxes have been received and the condition of the fish. You will relax a bit knowing the fish made it in fine shape. Then the real wait and stress begins as you try to keep your mind off the show and the fact that the results STILL have not been posted. Do not feel bad if you are feeling this way on Friday night, and you know fish are still being benched. Even after a few years of showing I find this time waiting for results the hardest. Eventually a notice is posted that show results have been uploaded and the link is given. Hopefully, you will find your name listed and feel that surge of excitement of having bred a winner. After the show, the fish are bagged up and sent home. Once they are home, you will acclimate them back to their water and feed them well. They have been without food for at least a week, so it’s better for lots of smaller feedings to get them conditioned up again. As you get your show babies fat and sassy again, hopefully you will be thinking of the next show. FLARE! May/June 2013
Show Ready Bettas that have been conditioned often place better.
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By Karen MacAuley onditioning a fish for show actually starts before the spawn even happens. Choosing the right breeding pair that complement each other is the first step to successful show stock. When I choose my pairs for breeding, I make sure to start off with the very best pair possible by taking into consideration that the female is going to play the biggest role in the outcome of my spawns. I never breed a male or female that has less than a 180 caudal spread. Another thing to take into consideration is when to plan your spawns. I like to spawn at least four months prior to the show season beginning. This way, the fish will be the perfect age to compete. I have found in my line that the best age for males to compete at the top level is 16 weeks, although I had one male win a Best of Show at 2 years of age and his sibling sister go Reserve Best of Show at the 2012 Convention at 2 years old. I try to do my spawns in January and May as this works well for the spring and fall show schedule.
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Once the spawn has taken place, the next few weeks will all play a part in conditioning for show. When the fry are around 6 weeks old, I start watching to see who is showing the most promise. I sit by the tank and begin to select my fish for show. The first to come out is the largest most aggressive males. I look for balance first and foremost. Symmetrical finnage is also very important in selecting my show stock. Next, I look for scale alignment, which has to be perfect on a show fish. Any fish with scale issues will be left in the fry tank to grow out and be placed as a pet. It is very important to get the biggest most perfect males and females out as soon as possible to avoid any fin damage at a young age. After all of the superior males and females have been pulled, I start carding them. I start this from the very first day they are separated in preparation for the next few weeks of show training and conditioning. These select will be fed three to four times a day. I feed Atisons Betta Pro, tubiflex worms and freshly hatched baby brine shrimp. Water changes are extremely important
when growing out show fish. Because the fish I have selected for show will be eating more than my other fish, they will need routine water changes of at least two times a week if they are in a half-gallon container. Two weeks prior to a show is when I start the serious training. I uncard the fish at least six times a day for five minutes at a time. This gets them used to flaring on command. Another thing I do is bring everyone who comes to my home into my fish room and have them uncard the fish. Show fish need to interact with the judges. Seeing a lot of different faces will help them perform better at the show. This might sound silly to some, after all they are just fish, right? But I have found Betta fish to act more like a Cocker Spaniel puppy than a fish. So remember socializing them is important. I also increase the the amount of tubiflex worms in order to bulk up and change the water every other day. I feed my fish right up until the night before they are bagged to leave for the show. During the last week prior to a show, I start moving the fish around to different shelves. This way they will not become too familiar to their next door neighbor. A happy surprise for the males is when I uncard them and it is not their mean brother on the other side but a pretty little female. You have to remember at a show depending on how well the fish places he or she will be moved around several times and placed next to fish he has not seen before. The last thing you want to happen is for your fish to refuse to flare for judging. This will knock him or her right out of the judging for Best of Variety or BOS. Also, extremely important is how the fish are shipped to the show. I only use USPS Express Overmight mail. I have found the less time they are in the bag being transported, the healthier they are when they arrive. So, remember, for the best show fish, beef him up, keep his water clean and make him confident! These three things will make the difference between a pretty pet and a top-winning show Betta. Page 21
Golden State Betta Show By Charlie Lease On Saturday, May 10, I arrived at the United Cambodian Community Center in Long Beach, California, for the IBC International Spring show. I had no idea what to expect. A few months ago a family member posted an image of a pure white HM male, and that’s all it took. I started reading everything I could, watching Youtube videos and emailing everyone that I thought had any remote information. I knew what Bettas I wanted to keep, so I began cycling some five-gallon, planted aquariums. In my search for information, I came across the IBC and Golden State Bettas websites and found out about an upcoming show that was just miles from my home! When I first walked into the show, my eyes were immediately drawn to a group of containers of males and females separated from the rest of the fish. In this group, I saw a stunning deep wine red HM male that looked as if someone had carefully drawn a fine black line on the edge of his fins. A gentleman came over and explained to me that these were the “Breeder’s Cup” Bettas and that I could win these if I purchased some raffle tickets and placed them in the container next to the fish I wanted. This guy obviously had no clue how bad my luck was with winning anything, but I took the bait, got a few tickets and stuffed them in the container for the raffle. I also purchased raffle tickets for the other gifts they had like grab bags filled with necessities. They had lamps and some really nice bags filled with small aquariums etc. I could already be a winner right? It didn’t take long before the room was full of people checking out all the fish on display. I had found out through a breeder weeks before that they auction off some of the fish at the show, and when I found out which ones were up for bid, I began making my list. Unfortunately, my eyes were bigger than both my wallet and the amount of space I had at home to house everything I wanted. And I wanted nearly everything I saw! I would spend my time months before the show just going into the local fish stores to see what was available. Most of the time, blah. The same colors, the same patterns, the same quality. Just blah. I was lucky one day and found two excellent fish that were just delivered, and I had to get them (I didn’t know about the show yet)! That left me with only two available tanks at home at show time. I Page 22
was looking for a pure white HM male, just like the one I had seen on the Facebook post. And I was looking for a black HM. They only had one of each so I chose a few “runner’s up” of different colors just in case I lost the bids. There was so much variety. Then I thought that there were so many people that I’d never be able to keep up with the bidding, so I just took a seat to watch. I sat down next to a very knowledgeable and kind woman who was answering my barrage of questions. As it turns out, she’s a breeder. And as it turns out, she had some of her own Bettas in the show. And, as it turns out, I’m talking to the right person because it’s IBC Vice President Karen Mac Auley. I was rethinking my decision not to bid, and Karen told me it wasn’t too late so I went for it. I had never been to an auction, so I was a little apprehensive. The black HM came up and the price went well beyond my budget (he was beautiful, as were all the fish). A nice blue HM came up and I won! Then came the
white HM. After a short bidding war, I finally outbid the others. My aquariums at home would all be filled now. I was on the phone having my brother thank his wife for posting that stupid picture of the white HM as they began the drawing for a “Breeder’s Cup” pair. While I was talking, I dug out my tickets and scanned the numbers. It was the drawing for the awesome red HM I saw when I first walked in. They called out the number ... not mine. Oh well, I didn’t have room anyway. Wait! Nobody claimed the number! They dig for another ,and call it out. I won! I should have gone to Vegas with that kind of luck. I have to say that I had so much fun that day. The fish that I had no room for all went to good “homes,” and I met some really great people. The auction was excellent. I learned a lot about Betta keeping and breeding, and it inspired me to continue my research and get involved in a local Betta club. I’m really looking forward to the next event. Hope to see you there! FLARE! May/June 2013
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Betta Show Friedrichshafen 2013
By Peter Bärwald
The fourth year in a row we have been at Germany’s largest fair, the Aqua Fish in Friedrichshafen, with a Betta-Show enthrall the participants and visitors. There were 47 entrants from 12 countries with 321 Betta. For the first time the building up the racks was begun on Wednesday to less stress and more time. It was a setup like in the picturebook, so calm, no stress and discussions, unique what more setup time can do. And yet that same evening already 90-95% was assembled. So you could rest assured to finish at Thursday in time and then wait for the first party to introducing the fish. Around 11:30 clock the first fisches were already in the boxes, so that the press could adequately take photos. Thus, we have been mentioned in any local newspaper where they wrote about the Aqua-Fisch. The Aqua-Fisch itself created several radio streams where the Kampffischfreunde with a little interview are included. At the afternoon arrived the first participants to insert their fish and against 8pm all the fish were placed in their assigned boxes. Nearly 40 participants and guests, including children, enjoyed dinner at the restaurant “The Post” in Oberteuringen. Also our main Judge Joseph Becerra and his wife Amy from the United States had arrived in time for the first evening to spend with us all. Joe and Amy were quickly closed by all present in the heart. The judging of fish was on the first fair-day, Friday, March 8, and took until late in the afternoon. Joe and Amy loved to work with the judge-trainees, who clearly enjoyed it. But the judges present listened intently also. The high quality of Betta has been praised by both. On the afternoon the company Dennerle made us a great surprise. Currently, the fish food is still in the testing phase. When will it appear on the market is not yet fixed. That same evening, received the three new judges trainees, Eugenio Fornasiero (Italy), Alberto Montalbetti (Italy) and James King (Czech) by Joe Becerra personally seminars 1 and 2 of the judgetraining. At the get-together and dinner at the restaurant Adler in Oberteuringen-Hefigkofen there were 48 participants and guests, including children. There are many experiences and exchanged ideas and a lot of laughter. Joe and Amy searched to talks specifically with the Chapterleaders and judges. Their discussions focused primarily around the needs and wishes of the Area2 (Europe). It came out great ideas and suggestions that you would like to address to implement in the coming months and years. The first auction of the exhibition-fish took place on Saturday at 11:30 am, just after Peter Bärwald’s lecture on the exhibitionforum, “Betta Splendens—Fighting Fish and a New Fin Type.” The very first auction showed the great interest of the participants and visitors and exceeded all expectations. Between noon and 1 pm, Peter Bärwald was at the booth of Dähne-publisher to sign his first book, Kampffisch-fibel, and to answer the questions about the Betta splendens breeding forms. At 1:30 pm started the second auction of exhibition-fish. Even Page 24
this was better attended than expected. The winning fish were only released for auction by 3 pm. The auction started on time and lasted for 1 hour and 30 minutes, a real marathon. The Best of Show male, a blue Double Tail, brought a thrilling battle of 110.00 euros. At the awards ceremony on Saturday late afternoon about 30 participants were present. First was the “Master of the Year 2012” awarded—an award of the Kapffischfreunde—to Michel Stokkelaar from Holland Then followed the award ceremony on current competition and subsequently followed the ceremony by the best of the IBC show-year 2011-2012 with the Year-End-Awards of the IBC Area 2 (Europe). Grand Champion was Jean-Michel Jeannerat from Switzerland. The evening events were well attended on Saturday with almost 60 people, including children. All had a great time. Nevertheless, we had to unfortunately after the first auction on Sunday say goodbye to some of the participants with wide ways home, but all had have fun. The dismantling went well and quickly, and the remaining KFF Members spent together one last pleasant evening with good food and great conversations and enjoyed the great show and the many, many thanks and praise. For the success of the show but not the KFF are solely responsible, so we would like to take this opportunity to thank all the participants, friends, helpers and visitors warmly. You champion the success also as well as the KFF team. Overall, it was our ninth Betta Show since our launch in March 2010, also at the Aqua-Fisch. Two new records for Area 2 (Europe) were also reached again with the 47 participants from 12 countries, and it was the first time there were also fish from India and Croatia in the competition, and reached some placements. About 30 people were constantly on the booth. Many questions were asked by visitors. We had our hands full. During the auctions the visitors pushed each other and there have been a few great battles fought for their dream betta. More than 150 Betta (single fish and pairs) have been auctioned. This year, the press had a remarkable interest in us and the Betta show. Apart from a short section in the reports of the regional newspapers, Kampffischfreunde are also mentioned in a radio report of the Aqua-Fisch for several seconds. Aqua-Szene created an extra report only about the Kampffischfreunde (2010 to 2013) and made a video of more than six minutes together in the English language. Highlight for the participants, however, was the chief judge and his wife, Amy and Joseph Becerra, who were enthusiastic with their natural essence and sensational friendliness. There were many great conversations, and Joe enthusiastic with some great ideas for Area 2 (Europe), of which only two days after the show he initiated. Both enjoyed the show and were pleased with the high number of participants. Amy was so excited that she said she would want to come from now each year. Over that, we would be very happy. A very special thanks to Amy and Joe Becerra, who have made the long journey from America to visit us and to judge the fish. This we will never forget. FLARE! May/June 2013
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Betta Show Friedrichshafen 2013
By Peter Bärwald
Zum vierten Mal in Folge konnten wir im Rahmen Deutschlands groesster Messe, der Aqua-Fisch in Friedrichshafen, mit einer Betta-Show die Teilnehmer und Besucher begeistern. Diese und noch viele weitere Reaktionen und Danksagungen haben uns auf der Show und auch noch nach der Show erreicht und beruehrt. Dies ist mit ein Grund warum es uns nicht leicht gefallen ist einen Nachbericht zusammen zu stellen, welcher der Show und die vielen positiven Eindrücke und Ereignisse gerecht wird. Unsere 9. International Betta Competition hat uns selber überwaeltigt. Erstmals wurde der Aufbau schon am Mittwoch begonnen, um weniger Stress und mehr Zeit zu haben. Es war ein Aufbau wie im Bilderbuch, so ruhig, ohne Stress und Diskussionen, einzigartig was mehr Aufbauzeit bewirken kann. Und trotzdem war am selben Abend schon 90-95% fertig aufgebaut. So konnte man Donnerstag ganz beruhigt zum Fertigstellen antreten und danach auf die ersten Teilnehmer zum Einsetzen der Fische warten. Gegen 11:30 Uhr zum Pressetermin befanden sich schon die ersten Fische in den Boxen, so dass die Presse ausreichend Fotos machen konnte. Gegen Nachmittag trafen dann die ersten Teilnehmer ein zum Einsetzen ihrer Fische und gegen 20 Uhr waren alle Fische in ihren zugewiesen Boxen untergebracht. Zum gemuetlichen Beisammensein und Abendessen fanden sich im Restaurant „Die Post“ in Oberteuringen fast 40 Teilnehmer und Gaeste, inkl. Kinder, ein. Auch unser Hauptrichter Joseph Becerra mit seiner Frau Amy aus den USA waren rechtzeitig eingetroffen um den ersten Abend mit uns allen verbringen zu koennen. Joe und Amy wurden schnell von allen anwesenden ins Herz geschlossen. Das Bewerten der Fische fand am ersten Messetag, Freitag den 08. März, statt und dauerte bis in den späten Nachmittag. Joe und Amy widmeten sich ausfuehrlich und ausdauernd den Richter-Auszubildenden, welche es sichtlich genossen. Aber auch die anwesenden Richter hoerten immer wieder gespannt zu. Die hohe Qualitaet der Betta wurde von beiden hoch gelobt. Noch am Nachmittag machte uns die Firma Dennerle eine tolle Überraschung. Zurzeit befindet sich das Futter noch in der Testphase. Wann es auf dem Markt erscheinen wird steht noch nicht fest. Am selben Abend erhielten die drei neuen Richter-Auszubildenden, Eugenio Fornasiero (Italy), Alberto Montalbetti (Italy) und James King (Czech) von Joe Becerra persoenlich die Unterweisung der Richter-Ausbildungs-Seminare 1 und 2 erteilt. Am gemuetlichen Beisammensein und Abendessen im Restaurant Adler in Oberteuringen-Hefigkofen fanden sich 48 Teilnehmer und Gaeste, inkl. Kindern ein. Es wurden viele Erfahrungen und Ideen ausgetauscht und viel gelacht. Joe und Amy suchten die Gespraeche speziell zu den Chapter-Leadern und Richtern. In den Gespraechen ging es in erster Linie um die Belange und Wünsche der Area2 (Europa). Dabei kamen tolle Ideen und Anregungen hervor welche man in den naechsten Monaten und Jahren angehen und umsetzen moechte. Die erste Auktion der Ausstellungsfische fand am Samstag um 11:30 Uhr statt, gleich nach Peter Baerwald seinem Vortrag im Messeforum; Betta splendens – Kampffische und eine neue Flossenform. Schon die erste Auktion zeigte das große Interesse der Teilnehmer und Besucher und uebertraf alle Erwartungen. Zwischen 12 und 13 Uhr fand sich Peter Baerwald am Stand des Daehne-Verlags zur Signierstunde seines ersten Buches ein. Page 26
– Kampffisch-Fibel – und beantwortete Fragen rund um die Betta splendens Zuchtformen. Um 13:30 Uhr folgte die zweite Auktion der Ausstellungsfische. Auch diese war besser besucht als erwartet. Die Siegerfische wurden erst für die Auktion um 15 Uhr freigegeben. Die Auktion startete puenktlich und dauerte 1 Stunde und 30 Minuten, ein wahrer Marathon. Der Best of Show male, ein Blue Doubletail inkl. eines Weibchens, erzielte nach einem spannenden Gefecht 110,00 Euro. Zur Siegerehrung am Samstag zum spaeten Nachmittag waren ca. 30 Teilnehmer anwesend. Erst wurde der Master oft he Year – eine Auszeichnung der Kampffischfreunde – für das Jahr 2012 geehrt, Michel Stokkelaar aus Holland. Danach folgte die Siegerehrung der Gewinner am aktuellen Wettbewerb und im Anschluss daran folgte die Ehrung der Besten aus dem IBC- Show-Jahr 20112012 mit den Year End Award des IBC für die Area2 (Europa). Grand Champion wurde Jean-Michel Jeannerat aus der Schweiz. Die Abende waren gut besucht, am Samstag waren es fast 60 Personen, inklusive der Kinder. Alle hatten viel Spass, konnten viele Erfahrungen austauschen, sowie Ideen und Gedanken. Trotzdem wir uns leider schon nach der ersten Auktion am Sonntag von einigen Teilnehmern mit weiten Heimwegen verabschieden mussten hatten alle noch viel Spass. Der Abbau verlief gut und zuegig und die verbliebenen KFFMember verbrachten einen letzten schoenen Abend beisammen bei gutem Essen und tollen Gespraechen und freuten sich ueber die gelungene Show und die vielen, vielen Danksagungen und Lobe. Für den Erfolg dieser Show sind aber nicht die KFF alleine verantwortlich, daher moechten wir uns an dieser Stelle bei allen Teilnehmern, Freunden, Helfern und Besuchern ganz herzlich bedanken. Ihr tragt den Erfolg ebenso mit wie das KFF-Team. Insgesamt war es unsere 9. Betta-Show seit unserem Start im Maerz 2010, ebenfalls auf der Aqua-Fisch. Zwei neue Rekorde für Area2 (Europa) wurden auch wieder gestellt. 47 Teilnehmern und diese aus 12 Laendern. Erstmals waren auch Fische aus Indien und Kroatien mit in der Bewertung und erreichten auch einige Platzierungen. Ueber 30 Teilnehmer waren staendig vor Ort. Es wurden viele Fragen von Besuchern gestellt. Wir hatten alle Haende voll zu tun. Bei den Auktionen draengte sich das Publikum und einige lieferten sich tolle Gefechte um ihren Traumbetta zu ersteigern. Es wurden mehr als 150 Betta (Einzelfische und Paerchen) versteigert. In diesem Jahr hatte die Presse ein bemerkenswertes Interesse an uns und der Bewertungsshow. Neben einem kurzen Abschnitt in den Berichten der Regionalzeitungen sind die Kampffischfreunde auch in einem Radiobericht der Aqua-Fisch fuer mehrere Sekunden erwaehnt. Aqua-Szene erstellte sogar einen extra Bericht nur ueber die Kampffischfreunde (2010 bis 2013) und stellte ein Video von ueber 6 Minuten zusammen in englischer Fassung. Highlight für die Teilnehmer war allerdings der Hauptrichter mit seiner Frau. Amy und Joseph Becerra begeisterten mit ihrem natuerlichen Wesen und sensationeller Freundlichkeit. Es fanden viele tolle Gespraeche statt und Joe begeisterte mit einigen tollen Ideen für Area2 (Europa), von welchen er bereits 2 Tage nach der Messe die ersten in die Wege geleitet hat. Beide genossen die Show und freuten sich ueber die hohe Teilnehmerzahl. Amy war so begeistert, dass sie sagte sie wuerden von nun ab jedes Jahr wieder mit dabei sein wollen. Darueber wuerden wir uns sehr freuen. Einen ganz besonderen Dank an Amy und Joe Becerra, welche sich den weiten Weg von Amerika gemacht haben um uns zu besuchen und um die Fische zu bewerten. Dies werden wir Euch nie vergessen. FLARE! May/June 2013
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CBS Meeting Recap The topic for the April 27, 2013, CBS meeting was a basic explanation of the IBC show standards and how judges apply them during a show. To help demonstrate this rather complex subject, we had a bowl show where our two IBC judges (Larissa Williams and myself) actually critiqued 12 fish brought to the meeting by CBS members. Gianne provided us with a nice variety of fish including Plakats and a “Giant” Betta. Nelson brought a very nice Crown Tail from a local pet shop as well as a few others, and I brought a few fish from my own fishroom. We met at a member’s house, and the weather was perfect underneath the patio. Our host, June, provided us with excellent snacks along with what everyone else brought to enjoy. We had 10 members present, which included several brand new members along with folks who have been part of the club for more than a decade. Besides the fish for the bowl show, we also had live food cultures, such as microworms and vinegar eels, available for anyone who needed them. After a general overview of the standards presented by Larissa, we discussed our upcoming June show. Larissa distributed flyers and posters for us to take to our local aquarium and pet shops to advertise for our show. Then she moved on to judging the fish, and explaining the process of judging. Having a bowl show is a great way for a club to show off members’ fish and learn more about showing in general. While we had two IBC certified judges in attendance, that’s not a requirement to have a bowl show. It can be a great learning experience to just read the standards together and see what the faults are, and then observe the fish present to see which faults you can find on each fish. For smaller clubs, it might be possible to coordinate with a larger local general aquarium society to host the bowl show during a meeting so that more people can enjoy our beautiful fish. After careful consideration, Larissa declared Gianne’s gold Plakat male (imported from Thailand) as Best in Show. My copperand-white bicolor dragon female bred by Stacy Fenhaus was Best in Show Female, and Nelson’s pretty pet store Crown Tail male got an honorable mention. —Christine Tanner Page 28
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IBC Chapters and Contact Info AREA
DISTRICT
CHAPTER WITH WEB ADDRESS WHEN AVAILABLE
CONTACT PERSON
E-MAIL ADDRESS
1
1
Arizona Betta H.E.A.D.'s
Stacy Deaton
jonergin@gmail.com
1
1
California Betta Society (CBS)
Nelson Snook
info@cbsbettas.org
1
1
Golden State Bettas
Yvonne Chaban
yvonne_chaban@yahoo.com
1
2
Lone Star Betta Club
Lori Green
lorigreen@sbcglobal.net
1
2
Oklahoma Betta Breeders Association (OBBA)
Gerald Griffin
herpchat@yahoo.com
1
2
SCUBA
Kayla Griffin
gurlslitoo@yahoo.com
1
2
Texas Betta Society
Igor Prpic
prpic.igor@yahoo.com
1
2
The Betta Habari Society Club (BHSC)
J.R. Baker
tcbettas@yahoo.com
1
3
Michigan Betta Club (MiBC)
Al Haskell
alhaskell@hughes.net
1
3
Midwest Betta Club (MBC)
Dan Young
bigbettadan@aim.com
1
4
Central New York Betta Club (CNYBC)
Carlos Pereyra
cnybc@hotmail.com
1
4
Connecticut Betta Club (CBC)
Doug Kneissl
connbettaclub@yahoo.com
1
4
Mid-Atlantic Organized Betta Breeders (MOBB)
Bob Dozier
rdozier22191@verizon.net
1
5
Bettas of South Florida (BSF)
Doug Coulson
Betta68@aol.com
1
5
First Coast Bettas of Florida (FCB)
Connie Emery
cjnemery@bellsouth.net
1
5
Georgia Betta Breeders Association (GABBA)
Dale Franz
franzfamily1@comcast.net
1
6
Betta Breeders Canada (BBC)
Heather Caseley
heathercaseley@eastlink.ca
1
6
Bettero Soy (Mexico)
Azucena Gual
azulgual@gmail.com
2
Auvergne Betta Club (France)
Charles-Maxime Baille
charly46@hotmail.fr
2
Associazione Italiana Betta (Italy)
Roberto Silverii
robertosilverii@gmail.com
2
Associazione Meridionale Betta (Italy)
Massimo Butera
geoarchimede@live.it
2
Betta Portugal
Pedro Moreira
pedrosamas@gmail.com
2
Betta Svijet (Croatia)
Josip Kevari
bettasvijet@yahoo.com
2
European Betta Friends (Germany)
Joachim Menz
joachim.menz@yahoo.com
2
Kampffischfreunde (Germany)
Peter Baerwald
pb@nicebetta.de
2
Swiss Betta Club
Claire Pavia
clairepavia@hispeed.ch
2
Splendenspower.cz (Czech)
James King
ibc@splendenspower.cz
6
Asian Betta Alliance
Emerson Sy
emersonsy@gmail.com
6
Kaisar United Banten Indonesia
Resty Desvita Satriawan
resty@kaisarunited.com
6
Betta Australis
Jodi-Lea Matheson
fishchick@internode.on.net
6
Betta Club (Singapore)
Dr. Li Chieh Hsu
drhsu2@gmail.com
6
Betta Society of Malaysia
Lynda Ong
Lynda_9555@msn.com
6
Betta Club of Indonesia
Hermanus Haryanto
hermanus_haryanto@yahoo.com
6
Indo Betta Splendens (InBS)
Joty Atmadjaja
jotya@jotyabetta.com
6
Team Xtreme Singapore
David Poh
hcc3288@singnet.com.sg
6
Victoria Betta (Australia)
Michael Chang
bettarazzi@gmail.com
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SCUBA Show Results—April 27, 2013
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GSB Show Results—May 11, 2013
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MBC Show Results—May 25, 2013
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CBS Show Results—June 8, 2013
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IBC Classes 2012-2013 Show Year IBC International, Area 1 Group A: Regular Classes Division A1: Halfmoon Non-iridescent Dark Solid Color ST
Division C: Crowntail C1.Iridescent / Metallic Solid Male
A1. Red STM
C2. Non-iridescent Solid Male
A2. Black STM
C3. Dark or Light Solid Color Female
A3. Red or Black STF
C4. Patterned Male Division A2: Halfmoon Iridescent Dark Solid Color ST
C5. Patterned Female Division D: Shortfin
A4. Blue STM A5. Steel STM
D1. Traditional Plakat Male
A6. Green / Turquoise STM
D2. Show Plakat Iridescent/Metallic Male
A7. Blue STF
D3. Show Plakat Non-Iridescent Male
A8. Steel STF
D4. Show Plakat Patterned Male
A9. Green / Turquoise STF
D5. Show Plakat Multicolor Male Division A3: Halfmoon Light Solid Color ST
D6. Halfmoon Shortfin Male
A10. Clear / Yellow / Orange STM
D7. Traditional Form Plakat Female
A11. Clear / Yellow / Orange STF
D8. Show Plakat Female
A12. Opaque / Pastel STM
D9. Doubletail Plakat Male Division E: Breeders Division
A13. Opaque / Pastel STF Division A4: Halfmoon Metallic Solid Color ST
Class winners in E Division are considered for BOV appropriate to their respective gender and variety.
A14. Metallic Solid STM (dark and light)
E1. Color or Form Variations
A15. Metallic Solid STF (dark and light)
E2. Form and Finnage
Division A5: Halfmoon Patterned ST
E3. Pairs Division F: Wild Type Betta Pairs
A16. Multicolor STM A17. Multicolor STF
Both regular and new breeder can enter Division F; wins aren't eligible for BOV or BOS.
A18. BiColor STM (dark and light)
F1 Small / Large Bubblenesters*
A19. BiColor STM (dark and light)
F2 Small / Large Mouthbrooders* Division G: Optional Classes
A20. Butterfly STM A21. Butterfly STF
Both regular and new breeder can enter Division G; wins aren't eligible for BOV or BOS.
A22. Marble / Grizzle STM
G1 Photography
A23. Marble / Grizzle STF
G2 Illustration
Division B: Halfmoon Doubletail
G3 Crafts
Group B: New Breeder Classes
B1. Iridescent / Metallic Solid DTM B2. Non-iridescent Solid DTM
NB-1 Singletail Male
B3. Dark or Light Solid Color DTF
NB-2 Doubletail Male
B4. Patterned DTM
NB-3 Crowntail Male
B5. Patterned DTF
NB-4 Plakat Male NB-5 Singletail Female
Best of Variety awards (one male & one female each)
NB-6 Doubletail Female
A: Best Halfmoon B: Best Doubletail C: Best Crowntail D: Best Shortfin Reserve Best of Variety awards (Catetories A-D) Best of Show (chosen from best of varieties)
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45 Regular Classes 2 Wild Classes 3 Optional Classes 6 New Breeder Classes 56 Classes Total
FLARE! May/June 2013
IBC Classes 2012-2013 Show Year-Area 2 GROUP A: REGULAR CLASSES Division A1: Halfmoon Non-iridescent Dark Solid Color ST A1. RED or BLACK STM A2. RED or BLACK STF
Division C: Crowntail ST C1. Dark or Light Solid Color STM (divisions A1, A2, A3 or A4 colors) C2. Patterned STM (division A5 patterns) C3. Dark or Light Solid Color Female (divisions A1, A2, A3 or A4 colors) C4. Patterned ST Female (division A5 patterns)
Division A2: Halfmoon Iridescent Dark Solid Color ST A3. BLUE or GREEN/TURQUOISE or STEEL STM A4. BLUE or GREEN/TURQOISE or STEEL STF
Division D: Shortfin ST D1. Traditional Plakat Male D2. Show Plakat Dark Solid Color Male (divisions A1 or A2 or A4 colors) D3. Show Plakat Light Solid Color Male (divisions A3 or A4 colors) D4. Show Plakat Bicolor Male D5. Show Plakat Multicolor Male D6. Show Plakat Patterned Male (Butterfly, Marble or Grizzle) D7. Halfmoon Shortfin Solid Color Male (any color or pattern)
Division A3: Halfmoon Light Solid Color ST A5. CLEAR, YELLOW, ORANGE, OPAQUE or PASTEOPAQUE or PASTEL STM A6. CLEAR, YELLOW, ORANGE, OPAQUE or PASTEL STF Division A4: Halfmoon Metallic Dark or Light Solid Color ST A7. METALLIC Dark or Light Solid STM A8. METALLIC Dark or Light Solid STF
D8. Traditional form Female Plakat (any color or pattern) D9. Show Female Plakat (any color or pattern) D10. Doubletail Plakat Males ( any color or pattern)
Division A5: Halfmoon Patterned ST A9 . BICOLOR STM A10. MULTICOLOR STM A11. PATTERNED (butterfly, marble or grizzle) STM A12. BICOLOR STF A13. MULTICOLOR STF A14. PATTERNED (butterfly, marble or grizzle) STF
Division E: Breeders Division E1. Color or Form Variations Male E2. Color or Form Variations Female E3. Form and Finnage Male E4. Form and Finnage Female E3. Pairs
Division B: Halfmoon DT B1. Solid DTM (division A1, A2, A3 or A4 colors) B2. Patterned Color DTM (division A5 patterns) B3. Females (division A1, A2, A3 or A4 colors) B4. Females (division A5 patterns)
(winners go to appropriate BOV category)
Division F: Wild Type Betta Pairs F1. Bubble-nesters (small or large) F2. Mouth-brooders (small or large)
(not eligible for BOV or BOS)
Division G: Optional Classes G1. Photography G2. Illustration G3. Crafts
(not eligible for BOV or BOS)
B: NEW BREEDER CLASSES NB1. Males ST/DT NB2. Crowntail Male NB3. Shortfin Male NB4 .Longfin Female NB5. Shortfin Female
Best of Variety awards
(one male & one female each) Best Halfmoon Best Doubletail Best Crowntail Best Shortfin (chosen from the Best above)
s puzzle consists of words and terms you will counter when Best showing your fish. The answers can of Show found in this issue of Flare! 1
3
H E A 1
5
N E W
B R E E D E 15 R
6
C O N V E N T I O A N D
4
8
11
E N T R Y F O R M
Across Increases the ambient FLARE! May/June temperature in a box2013 when shipping during the colder
D 9 D O U U 10 B E L E
V T P A R I A B L E T I S T O N 12 I N S
2
C K 7
S T
A I
L
F
S 13
U L A 2 2
B B A R N E Y G 16 G R A N D C H A E 17 18 D H A L F M A 19 B L U E L T S 1
39 Regular Classes 3 Optional Classes 5 New Breeder Classes 47 Classes Total
P R E A N D A R D E G I H O W S T 14 T E D R I A V T I I S O M P I O N O O O N
Down When you have a new color or form, this is the class you should enter your fish
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2012-2013 IBC Show Entry Form
Please check which category you wish to show in:
REGULAR:
Name:
Phone:
Email address: City:
Street Address: IBC MEMBER:
IBC Form 3-E 7/12
NO:
YES:
Date:
New Breeder: State:
of
Page #
Zip: Tracking #:
Fish Shipped Via:
USPS Express:
PM:
FED EX:
OTHER:
Carry In:
Return Fish Via:
USPS Express:
PM:
FED EX:
OTHER:
Carry Out:
Do you want your fish insured? If so how much ?
$
If you send more than 25 fish please add another page.
Entrant Fills OUT THIS PART: Fish #
Division
Class
Auction
MIN. Bid
HOST FILLS OUT THIS PART: Label/Remarks:
C#
Div
Class
Entry#
Award
Sold
Owner
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Special Instructions:
If you need help in determining the correct class for your entry, write "HELP"
For
in the class column. Allow one line per fish, two lines for pairs.
MONEY ENCLOSED BY ENTRANT Single Entries:
For
PLEASE number your fish bags with the number in the left column above. i.e.: If you have 5 fish, number the bags 1 through 5. STATEMENT: I agree to abide by all show rules of the IBC, and agree that the IBC, the Host Club, and the show site assume no responsibility for entries or condition of entries, although they will do everything possible to protect the fish.
$
-
$ Pair Entries: Return Postage: TOTAL: $ (excel sheet auto-calculates - fill in highlighted areas only) MONEY RETURNED BY HOST Auction Share:
$
I do NOT agree to allow my entries to be moved.
Excess Postage:
$
I do NOT want my fish to be photographed.
Refunded entry fees:
$ TOTAL:
$
SIGNED:
2009-2010 IBC Entry Form
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FLARE! May/June 2013
Code of Ethics of the International Betta Congress The International Betta Congress (IBC or The Congress) welcomes everyone who is interested in bettas, whether new at owning and/or raising bettas or an old pro who has raised thousands. The IBC feels there is room for all betta enthusiasts, be it young or old, new or experienced, individuals, families, teams or commercial breeders. The IBC is a club of individuals, families, teams, and commercial breeders who support the keeping, breeding, and/or the showing of bettas bred by our members; the research into the genetics of the betta species, and support of the preservation of the wild species through the Species Maintenance Program. It is IBC policy that members who sell, trade or give bettas to others must represent the description of such bettas in a proper manner, so as to assure that the buyers, consumers or recipients are not misled. An intentional misrepresentation would be a violation of the IBC policy and Code of Ethics. Moreover, it is the policy of the IBC, that when bettas are entered in a show, all such bettas should be raised and bred by the entrant or exhibitor unless clearly stated otherwise. Failure to comply with this policy would be contrary to the IBC Code of Ethics. The IBC does not participate in the fighting of fish for any reason and does not condone the fighting of bettas by others; nor does it support any individual or organization that does. The IBC expects all members to conduct transactions with all parties in a responsible, fair and ethical manner, in all dealings concerning the purchase and sale of betta stock and supplies. While we hope that all disputes be amicably resolved among the parties, the Congress, however, is not an enforcement agency for the transaction of betta stock and/or supplies, nor can the IBC mediate disputes involving members or any individuals over said transactions. In the interest of fairness, the IBC does not endorse individual business enterprises, and does not allow the promotion of those enterprises in posts on the IBC website, its forums or discussion lists, whether they are personal testimonials or commercial advertisements. The IBC believes that if all members abide by these simple guidelines we will have a happy, fun and stimulating club.
New Members Please welcome the following new members to the IBC:
Barbara Bedsted Katherine Chim Dawn Dawson Stephanie Garafola Javier Frias Garcia Barbara Glynn Robert Grant Jennifer Grogan Shannon Horvatek Joe Choo Eng Huah Yasuyuki Iwaya Tammy Kramer Billy Sin Chee Leong
Lydia Lestingi Werner Mocke Mackenzie Mulligan Crystal Overman Catherine Petersen Huang Piwi Daniel Price Harrison Wallis Schuessler Vanessa Sturgill Matthew Tatus Adrian Teh Brenton Tomlinson Angelique Vassiliou
IBC Dues Electronic Membership - Includes electronic full color FLARE! - You will be invited to join the IBC Members-Only BetterBettas Mailing List in order to access FLARE! and other IBC documents. • $20 Individual • $22 Family 1 • $14 Junior (under 16 - all areas) Paper FLARE! Membership - Includes black & white mailed paper issue of FLARE! • $35 Individual (North America only) • $37 Family 1 (North America only) • $40 Individual (all other areas) • $42 Family 1 (all other areas) • $29 Junior (under 16 - all areas) • $50 Associates (Includes fish hobby organizations and commercial entities)
FLARE! May/June 2013
Lifetime Rate: Available to individuals & families at a one-time fee of only $500. Payments by PayPal or check in US funds only. If you are sending money to IBC using PayPal for membership dues, show sanctioning, etc. please use bettacongress@yahoo.com as the IBC email address. 1
Family refers to family members living at the same residence.
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FLARE! May/June 2013